Ive had mine for 20 years and designed and built the house around it. I love it and appreciate the way it gives the feeling of sitting in the sun when its hot. Sometimes when it’s extremely cold I’ll do 2 fires in one day. I don’t really use the bake oven much because of how much wood it requires to get it to 750 degrees. My wife will put sweet potatoes in the oven and they cook really well even without a fire in it. Also it takes hours. I find that it drafts really well even the first of the season when you open the bypass damper.
We have a Tulikivi 2200 that we had designed into the house we built as a backup source of heat in SW Montana. It has now become our main source of heat in the winter instead of just a backup source of heat. Great video with practical information and insight.. For us it has been worth the cost.
Nice video, well said. We have had our tulikivi for 14 years. We live I central BC Canada. We heat are 1800 sq ft home very nicely. I have a fresh air duct coming into the fire box which I can control . Works good for the days when we have poor draft. We purchased a fire box insert from our tulikivi installer where we cook on after the fire has gone out . Works very nice. Thanks again for a very informative video to
Beautiful! Wish I would of went with a Tulikivi when I built our log cabin a few years ago. Cold air is denser and easier to move. Try placing a fan on the floor pushing the cool air from that bedroom into the main heated space then the warmer air will fill in behind it heating that bedroom.
Thanks for sharing David! Will have a danish/Swedish version of this masonry oven installed in my energy house this fall! Glad to join the masonry club! :) Cheers from Sweden, Johan
Thank you for this. We bought a house this summer with a tulikivi that's about 20 years old. So far, we've been unsuccessful in our 2 attempts at getting it lit without smoking up the house. There isn't a dealer near by, so we're trying to figure it out. Also, we were using a normal wood stove in our old place, so we don't have much super-seasoned wood. Worried we're just going to have to rely on our propane-powered forced air for this winter and use the wood we stocked this summer for next year.
Make sure the dampener is open, the bottom vents are open also. Burn one fire start all by itself. If if still smoke there may be another issue. It it doesn’t smoke, after the first starter goes out trying another small fire with a few pieces of wood. If the wood is not seasoned it will smoke regardless. Let me know if this helps.
When I was a kid, we had this problem with an old English fire place we had. The basic problem is "cold air damming" or simply, the hot air cant push the cold air out of the chimney piping cause the cold is heavy and acts like a plug. In some way, you have to create a draw through the exhaust duct work to get the air moving - basically "show" the air where its supposed to go, and then it will. You have to figure out how your specific design wants its air to be shown, but understanding the concept is the first step. For example: In our old fire place, we had a huge metal hood over the open stone fireplace, with a regular sized chimney pipe out the top of the hood to the roof. We learned to heat the air way up at the pipe first with a tight wad of paper for a minute or so (kinda like a torch), to get the air moving up, then we could start the fire and the fire smoke would follow suit. Otherwise all the smoke would just billow out the bottom of the hood and into the house......
Tip worth of trying: Put heat gun for 5 mins to blow hot air inside of those small chimney cleaning wents/doors if your fireplace chimney has those. Blowing hot air same way to ash box may help also. Also it may help if you open nearest window just tiny bit when the fire is starting. If your house has air conditioning there might be just a tiny bit of suction through the chimney and when you open window it may correct this. Edit: Dont keep the heat gun on when you are starting the fire. Just use it to preheat the fireplace. Edit2: Preheating makes warm air inside fireplace to rise up through the chimney and makes natural draft for smoke.
Wow, that heater has travelled a long way to get there! By the way, a literal translation of Tulikivi is firestone. The type of stone, soapstone, they use is known for being able to absorb heat for long time which also makes it ideal for slow cooking. The stone is easier to cut than hard stone which makes it possible to use it also in the internal parts of the heater and not just in the cover so more mass to store the heat. It's maybe not designed to be a pizza oven as such, but more like for bread and stew that would take a longer time in a constant heat. A pizza oven would probably need to have more direct access to flames to get hot enough.
much like with old cast iron stoves. there will be a plug of cold air in the chimney in winter. on old stoves there was a small opening under the oven about 1x3 inches where you put in some paper that you lit, sometimes you had to blow a little to get a draft in the right direction, it could take between 1-2 minutes before there was a draft in the chimney .
How long do your fires burn? I used to have a Finnish masonry heater and the idea was for the fire to burn as hot as possible and burn out as quickly as possible, to get the most efficient burn and derive the most possible energy from the wood, as some gases only combust above 850 degrees celsius. My fires would usually burn out in around in 1 hour and I'd leave the ash door completely open during the entire burn for max air intake. I don't know if a Tulikivi operates differently though.
I usually burn hot and “quick” an hour maybe two, if it’s the weekend and I just want a fire I have a small fire and add a log every so often. I believe it operates similar to what yours did.
Good review. Yea, this works just like a Russian Stove. Even in -30 degrees they just burn them twice a day and the heat is "let out" over the other 10 to 12 hours when there is no fire. Yes, to maintain draft everything must be kept warm and the stove needs to be fired every day or in most designs, there can be a draft problem if it goes cold. Russians install bypasses and dampers to assist this "reheat." By the way, I don't think fires should ever be "lit" in the top oven. The top oven is completely secondary to the bottom and the "heat for the house." With the idea being... it's already hot by "me heating the house," so.... I may as well take advantage and cook something. The stove is 99% for heat, and 1% for food.
The top oven has its own firebrick, and is designed to have a fire in it. It is not intended to replace to bottom firebox. Most all of my cooking does not require a fire in the top oven, when I’m make pizza I fire the top and get it close to 500F. I use the bottom 99% of the time also.
I noticed that you close the air control lever on the firebox door during your fire. In the instructions it says not to close until the coals have burned completely out. Also the instructions say to only have the grate damper open when only coals remain. Then to close once fire is completely out. I’ve had mine, like yours but with a bench around it, for 5 years.
Keep in mind the instructions are for Finland, where they don’t have the same hard wood as USA. When I purchased mine the dealer said to experiment for what works for us and I think that applies to us all.
Thanks for the practical overview. I am currently in design of our house and have picked a Tulikivi for our masonry heater which we are incorporating into the design. Did you have an outside air duct feeding the heater combustion air? If yes does it have a damper? Does the vent have a damper? What model number is your unit?. I am not impressed with my local dealer's installer. Do you have a list of questions for the installer? Should he be certified? I may have to pick another dealer with qualified installer. Any recommendations?
Our model is TTU2700/75 with bake oven. We did not install outside air duct. That is something that may be required for zoning in your area. It may also be necessary if your house will be super tight. As far as installation goes, in my area the dealers get a region to work in and others can not work there. For example, I have a dealer one state over much closer than the dealer who had my territory. My understanding is the dealer I used has one of the largest showrooms in the US. They have been to Finland several times to be trained, that would be my first question. Secondly how many have they installed and can I go see them. I’d be first to open my door to prospective buyers to show it off and talk about it. I don’t know where your location is but if you want to speak to my dealer send me an email and I’ll get there contact information to you.
Thanks for the tulikivi review. Great house and excellent video. I rent a house that has one, in milder climate than you for sure (N. California). We’ve been with the tulikivi for three winters now. We typically have one fire each night. One thing I have not been able to figure out is what the small tab above the firebox door is used for. Any idea about that?
That vent on the top of the door is supposed to be open until the fire burns down to coals. Then you close it when there are just coals to help them burn out faster. Once the coals are completely out, you close the damper up top and the vents on the bottom.
Great video! Thanks for posting. Currently going thru our first winter in our new home with new tulikivi 2450/92. Been ogling and researching them for years and agree that there’s limited online content from users. One question for you - how high do your surface temps get when fired up to 500+ for pizzas? I’ve read that surface temps shouldn’t exceed 180F - not an option wheh this thing gets cooking.
I don’t know the exact surface temperature. Since you can only burn in one at a time, and the bake oven has its own firebrick I don’t think it’s necessarily any hotter to the touch. It’s still very hot to the touch, more than likely above 180F. Hopefully you’re getting yours figured out and enjoying it.
Hi, i have aquestion please: Do you now what kind of thin mortar where used to build the oven, and what is made of? I try to repair a Tulikivi, but did not find any information about the mortar, the name of it or what it is made of.
@@MtTopLivinglol I just noticed that in your title 😂. Thank you for the reply. Do you have any more vids on the use of the oven ? I would imagine that a person would be able to make use of the different temperatures throughout the day to cook and bake a variety of things
I have the same problem when the heater is cold. I open the left vent portal at the bottom and run by propane torch (for plumbing) for 5-10 sec and the smoke starts to draw immediately shut the portal and everything should be fine.
It is a feature of counter flow fireplaces. It isn't straight pipe up chimney. meaning draft isn't easy on cold stove, since cold air mass sits in all the passages. Your solution is actually kinda the correct one. Open the side vents which have direct up flues, small start of fire (little bit of paper etc.) or other heat there to banish the still cold air mass and get the draft going. Other solution is just simply on knowing it is a masonry stove not fired for long, *start slow* . Just little bit of paper, sticks, small kindling first in the main box, for few minutes. Then just slowly add small pieces of wood just couple, look and observe, it drafts nice, add more and then one can look "okay it is clearly drawing fully air, load in the main load of wood". It's just how masonry stoves /fireplaces are given their complex and often counter draft designs (the exhaust actually goes down passages next to the firebox and then back up). One starts them easy, always on looking "drafts nice" and then one puts the real heat on. Given this design... people should never ever starve a masonry stove of air (hence as said in video, there is no way to fully close air vents, that is bad bad idea. vents slides are there just for fine tuning. This isn't one of those secondary combustion stoves, where one tries to gasify the wood and people talk about having the fire place air tight and restricted. No, the better and hotter it burns, the better. The passages, circulating and thermal mass takes care of catching the heat. No matter how hot and fast ones burns the fire. Nor as said does it need slow burning to keep heat going for long, since that is the job of the thermall mass. You get stone hot and then just enjoy the heat for rest of the day or half a day.
It seems like a giant radiator. I rather have a hot water system with radiators in every room for nice even heat. These are large, expensive, and require a fair bit or work. How about an outdoor wood boiler? If I had one of these, I think I would want it in my basement. Maybe have a Hearthstone soapstone wood stove and a actual wood stove in the kitchen. Maybe even a Pizza oven too. I do believe every house should have a primary and secondary heat source and wood is an awesome choice. The problem with wood, unless you have a wood boiler, is the uneven heat. Mordern heating is so nice and even and the floor in the heat is the best in my opinion. These are too bulky and expensive and unless you are in good shape, feeding and maintaining it is going to be difficult. Thank you for your video. You did a great job explaining it.
Well, I have all those systems except an outdoor wood boiler, which are banned because of how inefficient they are. The basement has hydronic radiant floor heat which I installed. The first floor has hydronic baseboard, and the loft gets its heat from them. As far as expenses go, if I bought two maybe three wood stoves I could has just got what I already ready have. If you burn wood for 20 years you will most certainly need a new stove at some point. I’m not afraid of a little work that provides for my family.
Great video and that's a fantastic house you built. Thank you. I presume it was installed by the manufacturer or contractors specially trained by them? Is it available as a kit that a homeowner could install themselves? What was the total installed cost? Do you enjoy any savings in the amount of wood that's needed to keep your house comfortable compared to a typical cast iron stove? Regarding the pizza oven, you said it takes a few hours to get it hot enough to cook with it. That doesn't sound too good. More importantly, you said the pizza oven can be used with the heat from the main firebox. How long does it take to get the pizza oven hot enough to cook, say, 350-400 degrees? How long will it hold that temperature? Thank you.
Let’s see if I can answer all these…. No it is not available as a diy kit, it is installed by the people who sell them and are factory trained in Finland. As far as savings I can’t compare bc this is a completely different house than I had for wood stove. As I said it holds heat a long time easily twice as long as any wood stove I’ve had. Getting to 350 can easily be done with just the fire in bottom. When making pizza I get the oven to 500-550 before putting the pizza in. It will continue to rise in temperature for a while then take several hours to cool down. Hope this helps.
@@MtTopLiving Thank you. How much did it cost installed? I understand the price will vary by design, extras and custom finishes, and of course the location would be a big part of the install. My minimum guess would be at least $15,000 but I figure your remote location would have added to that. Are we talking $20,000, $30,000, $50,000? Thanks again.
@@KenYamaguchi-sg5zr the heater was around $25k and it required a foundation which was done with the basement walls. So not inexpensive, but it was our big must have luxury.
@@MtTopLiving Thank you. That seems like a reasonable price, all things considered. I really like masonry heaters and it seems Tulikivi is the top manufacturer. Tempcast is another company that I've been researching and is about the same price, from what I can tell. Congratulations on the house and the heater. Best wishes. Thanks again.
@@ronkay8567 the cost will vary greatly depending on what country you live in, what portion the dealer you purchase it from will do. My purchase was in 2020, nothing in this world cost the same as back then. If you need a price, call a dealer. This is the Ferrari of wood heat, so expect to pay $30,000 and up if you need the foundation for it.
i have a Tulikivi as well (12 years) a little bigger than yours .... but i have to fire min. 3 hours that the full stove get hot .... than 12-16 hours later the same again ... i will never buy it again .... now this stove cost about 18 000 USD (in Europe) to much work and to much waiting time before it goes warm ... only for 2500 USD you get stoves they are way more effective ... :) sorry for my english ...
@@MtTopLiving In the first 20 seconds of the video, the door is left open while bringing the wood inside. Typically, when preparing a fire, it's cold outside. Leaving the door open causes a significant loss of valuable heat. 😀
@@ilovestrawberries12345 Oh! I don’t recall the weather on the day I created the video but it is for ‘entertainment’😊. You are absolutely right though.
@@ralph95 yes the Russian masonry heaters have been in use for a long time, there design is usually different and they usually didn’t use soapstone. They are great sources of heat.
Ive had mine for 20 years and designed and built the house around it. I love it and appreciate the way it gives the feeling of sitting in the sun when its hot. Sometimes when it’s extremely cold I’ll do 2 fires in one day. I don’t really use the bake oven much because of how much wood it requires to get it to 750 degrees. My wife will put sweet potatoes in the oven and they cook really well even without a fire in it. Also it takes hours. I find that it drafts really well even the first of the season when you open the bypass damper.
We have a Tulikivi 2200 that we had designed into the house we built as a backup source of heat in SW Montana. It has now become our main source of heat in the winter instead of just a backup source of heat. Great video with practical information and insight.. For us it has been worth the cost.
@@jowist2000 we also use it as primary heat, when we don’t we notice the difference. Keep on enjoying that pleasant warmth.
Nice video, well said. We have had our tulikivi for 14 years. We live I central BC Canada. We heat are 1800 sq ft home very nicely. I have a fresh air duct coming into the fire box which I can control . Works good for the days when we have poor draft. We purchased a fire box insert from our tulikivi installer where we cook on after the fire has gone out . Works very nice. Thanks again for a very informative video to
Thanks Dave! This is an Excellent overview video and my wife and I sincerely appreciate it. Lots of great insight that we haven’t seen before. 😎
Beautiful! Wish I would of went with a Tulikivi when I built our log cabin a few years ago. Cold air is denser and easier to move. Try placing a fan on the floor pushing the cool air from that bedroom into the main heated space then the warmer air will fill in behind it heating that bedroom.
Thank you for the advice, worth a shot trying it!
Oh also like your log rack, I may steal that idea
Thanks for sharing David! Will have a danish/Swedish version of this masonry oven installed in my energy house this fall! Glad to join the masonry club! :)
Cheers from Sweden,
Johan
I had a lot of questions about that stove. Glad you did a video on it. Beautiful home, Dave!
Thanks Dave!
Thank you for this. We bought a house this summer with a tulikivi that's about 20 years old. So far, we've been unsuccessful in our 2 attempts at getting it lit without smoking up the house. There isn't a dealer near by, so we're trying to figure it out. Also, we were using a normal wood stove in our old place, so we don't have much super-seasoned wood. Worried we're just going to have to rely on our propane-powered forced air for this winter and use the wood we stocked this summer for next year.
Make sure the dampener is open, the bottom vents are open also. Burn one fire start all by itself. If if still smoke there may be another issue. It it doesn’t smoke, after the first starter goes out trying another small fire with a few pieces of wood.
If the wood is not seasoned it will smoke regardless.
Let me know if this helps.
When I was a kid, we had this problem with an old English fire place we had. The basic problem is "cold air damming" or simply, the hot air cant push the cold air out of the chimney piping cause the cold is heavy and acts like a plug. In some way, you have to create a draw through the exhaust duct work to get the air moving - basically "show" the air where its supposed to go, and then it will. You have to figure out how your specific design wants its air to be shown, but understanding the concept is the first step. For example: In our old fire place, we had a huge metal hood over the open stone fireplace, with a regular sized chimney pipe out the top of the hood to the roof. We learned to heat the air way up at the pipe first with a tight wad of paper for a minute or so (kinda like a torch), to get the air moving up, then we could start the fire and the fire smoke would follow suit. Otherwise all the smoke would just billow out the bottom of the hood and into the house......
Tip worth of trying: Put heat gun for 5 mins to blow hot air inside of those small chimney cleaning wents/doors if your fireplace chimney has those. Blowing hot air same way to ash box may help also. Also it may help if you open nearest window just tiny bit when the fire is starting. If your house has air conditioning there might be just a tiny bit of suction through the chimney and when you open window it may correct this.
Edit: Dont keep the heat gun on when you are starting the fire. Just use it to preheat the fireplace.
Edit2: Preheating makes warm air inside fireplace to rise up through the chimney and makes natural draft for smoke.
@@CaraPanebianco new video up about this topic.
Wow, that heater has travelled a long way to get there! By the way, a literal translation of Tulikivi is firestone. The type of stone, soapstone, they use is known for being able to absorb heat for long time which also makes it ideal for slow cooking. The stone is easier to cut than hard stone which makes it possible to use it also in the internal parts of the heater and not just in the cover so more mass to store the heat.
It's maybe not designed to be a pizza oven as such, but more like for bread and stew that would take a longer time in a constant heat. A pizza oven would probably need to have more direct access to flames to get hot enough.
much like with old cast iron stoves. there will be a plug of cold air in the chimney in winter. on old stoves there was a small opening under the oven about 1x3 inches where you put in some paper that you lit, sometimes you had to blow a little to get a draft in the right direction, it could take between 1-2 minutes before there was a draft in the chimney .
Beautiful home
To move the heat into that spare room.
There is a small fan that gets mounted in the top corner of the doorway.
That should work.
@@johnlogan4053 I’ll have to give it a try, thanks!
@MtTopLiving I just moved if I knew where mine was I would mail it to you. Can't find anything.
Well done. Informative and well-spoken. Thanks.
super helpful video, as I'm looking at mass heaters right now
Ty
How long do your fires burn? I used to have a Finnish masonry heater and the idea was for the fire to burn as hot as possible and burn out as quickly as possible, to get the most efficient burn and derive the most possible energy from the wood, as some gases only combust above 850 degrees celsius. My fires would usually burn out in around in 1 hour and I'd leave the ash door completely open during the entire burn for max air intake.
I don't know if a Tulikivi operates differently though.
I usually burn hot and “quick” an hour maybe two, if it’s the weekend and I just want a fire I have a small fire and add a log every so often. I believe it operates similar to what yours did.
Good review. Yea, this works just like a Russian Stove. Even in -30 degrees they just burn them twice a day and the heat is "let out" over the other 10 to 12 hours when there is no fire. Yes, to maintain draft everything must be kept warm and the stove needs to be fired every day or in most designs, there can be a draft problem if it goes cold. Russians install bypasses and dampers to assist this "reheat." By the way, I don't think fires should ever be "lit" in the top oven. The top oven is completely secondary to the bottom and the "heat for the house." With the idea being... it's already hot by "me heating the house," so.... I may as well take advantage and cook something. The stove is 99% for heat, and 1% for food.
The top oven has its own firebrick, and is designed to have a fire in it. It is not intended to replace to bottom firebox. Most all of my cooking does not require a fire in the top oven, when I’m make pizza I fire the top and get it close to 500F. I use the bottom 99% of the time also.
I noticed that you close the air control lever on the firebox door during your fire. In the instructions it says not to close until the coals have burned completely out. Also the instructions say to only have the grate damper open when only coals remain. Then to close once fire is completely out. I’ve had mine, like yours but with a bench around it, for 5 years.
Keep in mind the instructions are for Finland, where they don’t have the same hard wood as USA. When I purchased mine the dealer said to experiment for what works for us and I think that applies to us all.
Hello. Thank you for this very interesting video. Could you please tell me precisely what model you have ?
@@francoiscroslais4298 TTU2700/75
Thanks for the practical overview. I am currently in design of our house and have picked a Tulikivi for our masonry heater which we are incorporating into the design. Did you have an outside air duct feeding the heater combustion air? If yes does it have a damper? Does the vent have a damper? What model number is your unit?. I am not impressed with my local dealer's installer. Do you have a list of questions for the installer? Should he be certified? I may have to pick another dealer with qualified installer. Any recommendations?
Our model is TTU2700/75 with bake oven. We did not install outside air duct. That is something that may be required for zoning in your area. It may also be necessary if your house will be super tight. As far as installation goes, in my area the dealers get a region to work in and others can not work there. For example, I have a dealer one state over much closer than the dealer who had my territory. My understanding is the dealer I used has one of the largest showrooms in the US. They have been to Finland several times to be trained, that would be my first question. Secondly how many have they installed and can I go see them. I’d be first to open my door to prospective buyers to show it off and talk about it. I don’t know where your location is but if you want to speak to my dealer send me an email and I’ll get there contact information to you.
Thanks for the tulikivi review. Great house and excellent video. I rent a house that has one, in milder climate than you for sure (N. California). We’ve been with the tulikivi for three winters now. We typically have one fire each night. One thing I have not been able to figure out is what the small tab above the firebox door is used for. Any idea about that?
I believe that tab pulls in or out which regulates air on the door glass.
@@MtTopLiving thanks! That makes sense.
That vent on the top of the door is supposed to be open until the fire burns down to coals. Then you close it when there are just coals to help them burn out faster. Once the coals are completely out, you close the damper up top and the vents on the bottom.
Great video! Thanks for posting. Currently going thru our first winter in our new home with new tulikivi 2450/92. Been ogling and researching them for years and agree that there’s limited online content from users. One question for you - how high do your surface temps get when fired up to 500+ for pizzas? I’ve read that surface temps shouldn’t exceed 180F - not an option wheh this thing gets cooking.
I don’t know the exact surface temperature. Since you can only burn in one at a time, and the bake oven has its own firebrick I don’t think it’s necessarily any hotter to the touch. It’s still very hot to the touch, more than likely above 180F. Hopefully you’re getting yours figured out and enjoying it.
Hi, i have aquestion please: Do you now what kind of thin mortar where used to build the oven, and what is made of? I try to repair a Tulikivi, but did not find any information about the mortar, the name of it or what it is made of.
Depends if you mean in the fire box or on the outside.Refractory mortar is most likely used inside. I don’t know out the joints of the outside tiles
great videos esspessialy how to use the oven. what brand of heater is this one?
Tulikivi
@@MtTopLivinglol I just noticed that in your title 😂. Thank you for the reply. Do you have any more vids on the use of the oven ? I would imagine that a person would be able to make use of the different temperatures throughout the day to cook and bake a variety of things
@@chrisharrison3245 I have a play list with a couple of them cooking.
I have the same problem when the heater is cold. I open the left vent portal at the bottom and run by propane torch (for plumbing) for 5-10 sec and the smoke starts to draw immediately shut the portal and everything should be fine.
It is a feature of counter flow fireplaces. It isn't straight pipe up chimney. meaning draft isn't easy on cold stove, since cold air mass sits in all the passages. Your solution is actually kinda the correct one. Open the side vents which have direct up flues, small start of fire (little bit of paper etc.) or other heat there to banish the still cold air mass and get the draft going. Other solution is just simply on knowing it is a masonry stove not fired for long, *start slow* . Just little bit of paper, sticks, small kindling first in the main box, for few minutes. Then just slowly add small pieces of wood just couple, look and observe, it drafts nice, add more and then one can look "okay it is clearly drawing fully air, load in the main load of wood".
It's just how masonry stoves /fireplaces are given their complex and often counter draft designs (the exhaust actually goes down passages next to the firebox and then back up). One starts them easy, always on looking "drafts nice" and then one puts the real heat on. Given this design... people should never ever starve a masonry stove of air (hence as said in video, there is no way to fully close air vents, that is bad bad idea. vents slides are there just for fine tuning. This isn't one of those secondary combustion stoves, where one tries to gasify the wood and people talk about having the fire place air tight and restricted.
No, the better and hotter it burns, the better. The passages, circulating and thermal mass takes care of catching the heat. No matter how hot and fast ones burns the fire. Nor as said does it need slow burning to keep heat going for long, since that is the job of the thermall mass. You get stone hot and then just enjoy the heat for rest of the day or half a day.
It seems like a giant radiator. I rather have a hot water system with radiators in every room for nice even heat. These are large, expensive, and require a fair bit or work. How about an outdoor wood boiler? If I had one of these, I think I would want it in my basement. Maybe have a Hearthstone soapstone wood stove and a actual wood stove in the kitchen. Maybe even a Pizza oven too. I do believe every house should have a primary and secondary heat source and wood is an awesome choice. The problem with wood, unless you have a wood boiler, is the uneven heat. Mordern heating is so nice and even and the floor in the heat is the best in my opinion. These are too bulky and expensive and unless you are in good shape, feeding and maintaining it is going to be difficult. Thank you for your video. You did a great job explaining it.
Well, I have all those systems except an outdoor wood boiler, which are banned because of how inefficient they are. The basement has hydronic radiant floor heat which I installed. The first floor has hydronic baseboard, and the loft gets its heat from them.
As far as expenses go, if I bought two maybe three wood stoves I could has just got what I already ready have. If you burn wood for 20 years you will most certainly need a new stove at some point.
I’m not afraid of a little work that provides for my family.
Great video and that's a fantastic house you built. Thank you. I presume it was installed by the manufacturer or contractors specially trained by them? Is it available as a kit that a homeowner could install themselves? What was the total installed cost? Do you enjoy any savings in the amount of wood that's needed to keep your house comfortable compared to a typical cast iron stove? Regarding the pizza oven, you said it takes a few hours to get it hot enough to cook with it. That doesn't sound too good. More importantly, you said the pizza oven can be used with the heat from the main firebox. How long does it take to get the pizza oven hot enough to cook, say, 350-400 degrees? How long will it hold that temperature? Thank you.
Let’s see if I can answer all these….
No it is not available as a diy kit, it is installed by the people who sell them and are factory trained in Finland.
As far as savings I can’t compare bc this is a completely different house than I had for wood stove. As I said it holds heat a long time easily twice as long as any wood stove I’ve had.
Getting to 350 can easily be done with just the fire in bottom.
When making pizza I get the oven to 500-550 before putting the pizza in. It will continue to rise in temperature for a while then take several hours to cool down.
Hope this helps.
@@MtTopLiving Thank you. How much did it cost installed? I understand the price will vary by design, extras and custom finishes, and of course the location would be a big part of the install. My minimum guess would be at least $15,000 but I figure your remote location would have added to that. Are we talking $20,000, $30,000, $50,000? Thanks again.
@@KenYamaguchi-sg5zr the heater was around $25k and it required a foundation which was done with the basement walls. So not inexpensive, but it was our big must have luxury.
@@KenYamaguchi-sg5zr that price includes installation of heater.
@@MtTopLiving Thank you. That seems like a reasonable price, all things considered. I really like masonry heaters and it seems Tulikivi is the top manufacturer. Tempcast is another company that I've been researching and is about the same price, from what I can tell. Congratulations on the house and the heater. Best wishes. Thanks again.
How Much Did it Cost?
That's important information
@@ronkay8567 the cost will vary greatly depending on what country you live in, what portion the dealer you purchase it from will do. My purchase was in 2020, nothing in this world cost the same as back then. If you need a price, call a dealer. This is the Ferrari of wood heat, so expect to pay $30,000 and up if you need the foundation for it.
i have a Tulikivi as well (12 years) a little bigger than yours .... but i have to fire min. 3 hours that the full stove get hot .... than 12-16 hours later the same again ... i will never buy it again .... now this stove cost about 18 000 USD (in Europe) to much work and to much waiting time before it goes warm ... only for 2500 USD you get stoves they are way more effective ... :) sorry for my english ...
Wondering why you don't close the door when entering the wood.
I’m not sure what referring to.
@@MtTopLiving In the first 20 seconds of the video, the door is left open while bringing the wood inside. Typically, when preparing a fire, it's cold outside. Leaving the door open causes a significant loss of valuable heat. 😀
@@ilovestrawberries12345 Oh! I don’t recall the weather on the day I created the video but it is for ‘entertainment’😊. You are absolutely right though.
The Russian have used this for probably 900 years. No new thing
@@ralph95 yes the Russian masonry heaters have been in use for a long time, there design is usually different and they usually didn’t use soapstone. They are great sources of heat.