How to Spot and Service a Stuck Rear Caliper - EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 เม.ย. 2012
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www.ericthecarguy.com/
During the used car inspection that I did on my Subaru I found evidence that the rear calipers weren't doing their job so I decided to make this video of how I handled the situation. It's been about a month since I shot this video and even though I didn't machine the rotors they are actually much better than they were, I don't hear any noise and the car stops fine so you may also be able to get away without machining the rotors.
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ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
As a southern Californian, I am always in awe watching mechanics work on rusted vehicles.
Thank you Eric the Car Guy, Your videos are a comfort for me as a DIY car mechanic. You have saved me and my family so much money over the years... Continue your fine work
Almost 6 years later and you just saved me almost $300! First caliper replacement I’ve ever done. Thank you!!
P.S. don’t use your palm to break bolts loose (lol)
One way to prevent the rear brakes from rusting and get stuck, is to exercise the brakes every now and then, just brake hard a few times to remove any surface rust from the discs, and to make the pads and the caliper move a little bit. The number one reason the rear brakes fail and get stuck is that people don't brake hard enough.
Awesome channel btw, keep up the good work Eric.
I am SO thankful your old videos are still available all these years later! Referencing today before investigating the rear brakes on my '07 Accord for a noise and suspected caliper problem of some sort.
Legitimately the first guy who makes sense and doesn’t drag on for hours. Thanks heaps man!! appreciate the tutorials a lot.
As Aaron just said, slamming your palm on wrench's and ratchets, will catch up with your hands. Thank you again for a well covered repair, Jim.
Thank you for these videos, this one helped me conquer my fear of going near the brakes on my car 1991 Honda Beat, the binding got so bad I had to take the plunge. This video with the help of a Japanese Service Manual guided me in the right direction and it's now free to move. Will still need to replace the pads at some point due to uneven wear but this video really helped, just perfect, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Very nice! I am a technician myself. I was about to write on here about 7:50 into the video say the following: "Whenever I clean/service calipers and caliper brackets at work, after I clean the shims and the shim housings on the bracket, I discovered a little bit of anti-seize on the housing will help prevent future rust and less chance of brake failure" But soon enough you did what I was about to say lol. Good job, was like I was watching a video of myself doing it 5/5!!!
Sure pads are cheap and easily replaced. but he's not fixing pads, He's fixing a stuck caliper where most mechanics will happily charge you $200 or more for a new caliper and labor. He's done a great job on educating people that a stuck caliper doesn't always have to mean a costly replacement. Thanks Eric. great job. wish there were more honest mechanics like you.
He didn't fix a stuck caliper he didn't even fix the rubber boot around the Piston nor did he show how to get the Piston unstuck
This video showed him cleaning the caliper not fixing the problem with getting the rubber boot or piston from being stuck
@@m.o.n.e.ypower8484 yeah, that's what I thought the video would show....
Eric I love your videos. I live in New Hampshire and have been a tech for 12 years. This is the most common cause of premature brake failure. You need to always clean the rust from under the shims and put plenty of brake lube under and on too if the shims before putting back together.
Awesome video, thanks Eric you saved me lots of money, I was told by a mechanic my caliper was bad and needed replacement, all it needed was a good clean and lubrication, now there's no noise, thanks again I subscribed to your channel.
Very generous to share this. You're one of the good guys. Thanks from a Lake District, England Hyundai driver - with sticking brakes all over the place!
Found your channel recently and have to say I am impressed. Well done and informative and obvious you know what you are doing. I am by no means your caliber of mechanic but have been getting dirty for many years. Motor head to the core but maybe I will have to start wearing those nice rubber gloves. Love what you do and keep putting up the clips.
Thanks for yet again a very informative video that covered stuff I was doing wrong over the past 30 years of DIY car maintenance and repair - like using grease for those caliper pins instead of silicone paste (unstuck my rear brakes 8 months ago and wondering why they seized again so soon.... you're a life saver!). Anyway after watching and learning for a few years I finally did the right thing by you and subscribed. Thanks for all the help and guidance over these past years.
Eric your videos are excellent, I have learnt a lot from only watching a few of them on brakes. It's just like standing next to you in the workshop and watching. Brilliant!
Keep it up man, these vids are a godsend to people like me that have no one to guide them and supply advice.
Such a good, informational video. I see rust growing on my rear rotors so this is exactly what I needed (or atleast one thing to check for anyway). I'll be watching this as I work on my car. Thanks for making these Eric!
I always fine tune the brake pads with a file' The ends always have excess metal,like you did fit and try,then fit and try until they slide properly, because your brakes can never be good enough. Good brakes are a good way to stay healthy. good video
Thanks a bunch! You uploaded this at a good time as I am about to service the brakes on my 23 year old Silvia.
This was the perfect video for my issue; excellent walk through; clear and concise; thanks Eric !!!!
I agree that you should have the "chirper" on the inside pad Experience has taught me (even thought its only about three years) to always put the indicater in a location with path of least resistance mean that if the happens to fly off of the pad it with be ejected promptly by the forward motion of the wheel and not get thrown into the caliper and possibly cause more damage there are my thoughts on that. And as far as not beating on your prybar to free those pads I say use what you feel safe w/
What a kind, generous, humble, capable man you are.
Thank you so much for this video. I have changed out my sons rear pads 3 times in the last 2 years and was trying to figure why it was grabbing so hard in the back and over heating. this seem to be the ticket. Thanks again!
Bless your heart and your hands. Thanks for your wise words and your generosity with the information of your trade. I sincerely thankyou Eric. Now let's see if I can get my car moving before the tow guy.
I had a similar problem on my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville SSEI. I removed the calipers, cleaned all contact surfaces with a wire brush, brake cleaner, and also used a small file to ensure the rear brake pad end plates were free of corrosion. I also used anti-seize on all contact surfaces and replaced all the brake hoses with new hoses. The rear brakes now work perfectly.
Very informative and useful information on all the little details along the way, top job and thanks for sharing you knowledge
Nice video - and well-explained like always. I have the same problem with stuck rear calipers and have a suspicion that this is due to exactly the same reason
I have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan and every 6 months the sliders as well as the parts Eric talked about have to cleaned and lubricated otherwise I start to smell the sticking of the pads to the rotor. The rear of these vans are known for it. I will not waste money on parts that have nothing wrong with them other than surface rust. I've repaired my vehicle as well as my sons for years and saved a whack of money.
Great video Eric.
Great DIY video Eric. I really appreciate the video's your putting out.
Thank you.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. What is the date for the meet-up for 2019?
Another very helpful video from ETCG, many thanks...
Great Video Eric !!! Finally someone shows how to properly service the caliper.
I do it this way on EVERY brake job, as I'm up in New England. And if you don't then the pads will freeze and wear out in 6 months. +1 on the Silicone for the slide pins.
Eric You have saved me so much money and time, Thank you.
Thanks for posting these helpful videos! I am subscribing. Keep up the excellent work
Great! Looks really good I hope I can do this on my stucked caliper.
man im so glad u posted this vid....now I can fix mine on my truck...thanks!!
thanks for this video Eric! you are truly a great mechanic! keep up the good work!
Eric
This is a great video for me.
Instructive and entertaining.
And very useful too.
And the tips from the other viewers are great too.
good easy to follow flick.
Taught myself to change pads, years ago. Bikes and cars.
Copraslip is my choice too.
Liked the way the hub/rotor wouldn't turn, when finished.
You’re video is really informative! I am so glad I found your channel!
Oh man - I was just dying to see you take off that disc and shine it up! Ace video as always.
This was the exact video I was looking for, thank you so much!
I never thought to anti-seize the shims. I learned something today, thx Eric!
Excellent video, great advice for everyone.
Thank you for bothering to do film in such detail.
I just had this happend to my acura integra that has been parked for a little while and we had a bunch of rain. I could not understand how one of my calipers would just lock up and this is a great example of how the brake pads can rust and get stuck.
Thanks good info in this video. Outside pad wore all the way down and inside pad hardly wore , so I'll inspect everything you mentioned
Had a rear slider on a dodge ram yesterday and the one slider was like it came from the factory with now lube in it at all. The rest were fine and there is only 100,000 kms on the truck and the brake pads were never changed until yesterday and they still had half the pad left lol. I couldn't believe it. All highway km's I was told. Great vid Thanks.
Damnit man! You are a champion! I have learned so much watching your work! I can't thank you enough for showing us DIY'ers how to properly do things. It is truly inspiring. Move to Texas!
great video. i used to use silicone paste on the slide pins like eric said, but when you work on oilfield trucks, pins are seized and rusted in all the time so i just use the copper antiseize lube on the slide pins to that way when the brakes are worn out everything comes apart, instead of having to replace the calipers and and brackets.
great mate , thanks for the help and taking the time to do these
Eric little advice from me. I used to use coper grease on the parts you used it for quite a while now. However a buddy of my recommended using graphite paste instead... (4 years ago) and since than i have never looked back on copper grease. It was such an improvement on working with brake callipers. Greats videos by the way. Keep them coming
What's the difference? Tell me more
I had a rear caliper like this, I just changed out the rotor, caliper and pads, for new that was the quickest, easiest solution for me and meant I was assured everything was new and I probably wouldn't need to work on it again for while.
Your content Is so helpful. I love stuff like this. Thanks for all your effort. 👍
You uploaded this video 24 mins ago, and you already have 164 views. lol
That's shows the success you have :)
Now it has almost 1 million.
Thanks for the video. As always, very helpful.
Another clear easy to follow video. Thanks!
hey eric,paul again,so many mechanics NEVER lube the slides,incredible !!!! i keep a can of brake lube right on my cart and never do a brake job without checking and or lubing the slides !!!!! the small cans i use have a brush right in the can !!!! it's really cheap and you can buy them on line cheaper than you can buy them at a parts store !!!!!!! when it gets low once again you can buy tubes of brake lube cheaper on line than you can at a parts store !!!!!!
I love your videos Eric. Thanks for posting!
thanks eric. this is a very common problem in older VW's, golfs, polos, passatts, transporters etc.
its either the brake pads seize the the carrier or usually its the slide pin/s are seized.
cheers
Thanks for a great video Eric .Very helpful !
Another great video Eric! Best channel on TH-cam.
Thanx Eric, another great video. Got me out of a real mess!!
As always very informative, thanks Eric
Thanks for the tip on using silicone paste instead of regular anti-sieze grease on the caliper pins. Not being a trained mechanic, I had no idea! I'll have to open up my calipers and fix that this weekend. ;)
One of the videos that makes me glad I don't live near the ocean or driving on salted roads, along with very little humidity all year. Some good things about Phoenix.
Wow, these videos are great. I have experience in car and motorcycle maintenance and repairs (not a professional mechanic, but I do stuff just like in the video) I could not imagine doing this type of repairs AND make such a nice video about it at the same time. Keep up the good work!! :-)
thanks eric for sharing your very good video, helped me a lot
Just doing the same here on all four calipers/pads of my 1996 Lincoln Continental. Here in the UK such parts are difficult to obtain. Having removed calipers/pads it is easy to remove the rotor. An angle grinder with a fine grinding disc soon removes the inner and outer raised rusted areas, making the rotor almost as good as new. There has been no need for machining.
Fantastic !! Eric do you recommend putting the anti seize on the caliper mounting bracket bolt threads as well as the wheel stud threads?
This is badass info, i've noticed something similar on my girlfriends car and always wondered about it, but her dad sya it could be quite costly to repair completely or replace. So i might just take this video into consideration when i jack the car up soon to change tyres for the summer.
Thank you for your video. Always big help.
Do you recommend lubricate space between caliper holders and pad shim ?
GREAT VIDEO, LOTS OF GOOD INFO, TY
thanks for all the helpful videos. its all great info that's really appreciated!
Thanx Eric, great video as always!!
Yours videos are very hepful. thank You for sharing your knowlege with us
Nice and informative video man, i guess that is a pretty easy tell tale sign of a seized caliber, or a similar problem.
Not everyone always has $20 to spare but rather time to spare! Don't be a hater bro. I for one very much appeciate someone taking time to pass on some free knowleddge! And that's my 2 cents worth. Thanks Eric!
Thanks ECG for addressing the stuck pads which I have. I couldn't find any other videos that addressed this issue and I hope a cleanup like yours is all I need to do to eliminate a subtle grinding sound. If there is no feeler gauge on either pad can I switch them since the inside pad has 1/8 inch more wear (thinner)?
Good presentation video. The older a vehicle is,creates increases in rust etc. So its more economical to spend less cash on older vehicles
I like that the caliper frame was cleaned under the abutment clips. Not having a wire wheel, I use highspeed rotary tool to clean the pad ears, the caliper frame under the abutment clips and the clips. If I see that the abutment clips are blued (disclored from heat) between pad changes, I'll replace them, other wise I'll replace them whn the pads are changed. Clips are cheaap, pada=s and rotors are not.
My experience with owning used cars that have rusted suggests that rust present promotes rust formation. Rust from caliper frames is moved by condensation and rain down onto the rotor surface creating morning rust "blush". That thin coating of rust does more to contaminate and wear down disc pads than males of driving.
If you have removed the caliper frames for cleaning and aren't rushed for time, any good chemical rust remover will get the majority of the rust off without scouring. A small amount of rurface rust "blush" can promote bonding of a rust inhibiting paint. Years ago I used "instant cold" galvanized spray for this and it dramatically reduced overnight surface rusting of the rotors. Now there are water based chemical that convert the red iron oxide to black iron oxide, which is much more stable and doesn't easily wash away.
I have worked on cars for 20+ years and didn't know there was Silicon Paste.
So thank you Eric
nice video, great job Eric
Really good video. Thanks Eric.
Dude your hands are probably like iron from slapping wrench to break loose rusty bolts. Great video as always!
Very good Video, Thanks a lot and God bless. I Usually watch your video, a great way to learn. Thanks. Mike
Thank God for TH-cam!!!
Of all the mechanic videos, this guy is one of, if not the best. My only issue is I have to watch at 1.5x speed but most guys speak too slowly for me so that's not a big issue, just a minor point. I see now this is an old video (this is 2018) so I hope he is just as good now or better. Guess I'll sub and find out huh? Yep.
I went to replace the rear calipers on a 2012 honda crv, and could not get the caliper bracket to come off. Yes there was some rust, but i was able to get all bolts off no problem. It seems like there is some piece of metal that is lodged to the bracket and the caliper behind the rotor. Any idea what is is and how I can get the bracket off?
subscribed, have seen some of ur vids floatin around on the net, didnt realize you were the shit. thanks for takin the time to put these up loads of information.
Nice, I just changed the brake caliper bracket on Rob's truck.....
He had me use all sorts of good stuff, Brake & caliper lube, anti-seize and to make it
look really good he had me use the torque wrench to do the job right, although I don't really
believe that he would have.... LOL
Well anyhow you done another great vid, Eric!!!!
.
Merrie-Merrie
i love your vdo ETCG your the best instructer their is out there keep it up thx
Thank you for another excellant video. You have helped me greatly with a few of your vids. Please keep up the good work. You explain things very well. I never got that lucky with my calipers. It's always the piston that seizes =( I'm a pro at replacing calipers now. lol
Thank you very much for your info.my car. Had a problem.left front wheel side won't spin toyota matrix 2009. Is there something you may know and concern solve that problem.? I appreciate your help.
Thank you.
I'm just about doing this at front of the car. Installed new pads and rotors but now after few months it seems that left side is not moving freely. I remember that there was quite tight to begin with. But I hope that little grinding helps.
nice job eric like always
U saved me again Eric! Cheers!
Thanks alot! I was going to do that soon, thanks for this and the other tutorials ;)
I worked on a F series Super Duty that had this problem on all four wheels. I ended up using my air hammer to chisel the old pads off and then used a file to clean up the build up of rust on the bracket. Instead of the rotary file, I like my 3" cut off wheel (or a Dremel) to get in the groove and rub some rust off.
Wow by far the best video ever now I know now why my calipers are too tied.