I want to thank u . I'm looking to do the same thing. Yur parts list & links . Gave me all the info I needed . And parts I didnt think of . Cant wait to see yur Dyno numbers at the end.
Great video. Most likely thou most wont be able to do these.Like me ,No garage, Not enough tools ,and probably not enough knowledge to do it.🤣 Just gotta keep my fingers crossed my engine last.
Haha thanks! We are definitely lucky to have access to a well equipped garage. Hopefully it keeps chugging along for you! At least you'll be able to relax and watch us do it here 😉😂
Thanks for the informative video. HP Tuner credits vary. 4 credits = $200 for a 17 Silverado 5.3. DOD was the first thing I did. It never activates now. Total cost with the ability to tune a large array of stuff was $600 plus tax.
Amazing video… x just had a shop do my 2013….. that didn’t use a new camshaft….is this the reason why it’s not running properly since this delete….. can here a lot of lifter noise unfortunately
How much do you have left on the warranty? 2014 has to be close to the 5 year mark. Range seems to be good from what I have heard but doesn't prevent the failure from happening sadly
@@TheSundaeDrive 175000 on powertrain warranty... mods done so far is borla atak exhaust kit, Airaid tube intake, oil catch can, and the range... really considering the camshaft along with afm delete and tune but don't know what's the recommended option for a daily driver vehicle with a little bit of fun on pedals too.
If you tow I would stick with a stage 1 cam. If not, you can probably go to a stage 2 for a bit more fun on a daily driver. All comes down to personal preference tho
Hey cliff, for the stage 1 cam you selected did you need to change out to wideband 02 sensors and larger injectors and was it necessary to dynamic tune after the upgrades?
I have 2014 LTZ 5.3l Z71 1500. I’m trying to gather the minimum list of parts to just delete the Dod/afm. I feel that I don’t understand complete engine tear down to do so. Could you share a list for parts? If just doing did/afm delete, can I keep the engine in the truck?
Watch through the full series and look at the description on the engine assembly video. I have all the gaskets etc you'll need there. In my opinion, it would be extremely difficult to do in the truck. I would always pull it when doing it myself on this and future trucks to make sure it is done right. Watch through the series and you'll see why. The oil pump is the issue because it sits down inside the oil pan and dropping the oil pan is really challenging if you have it in the truck. It is also sealed by rtv and not a gasket so the rtv needs to be replaced unless you want to chance an oil leak.
i have a 08 pontiac gp gxp so i know most of it is all relatively the same but for more power stage two or 3 bc i’ve read a form from summit racing saying you can’t push those cars over 400hp
The link that says “ GPI 2014+ 5.3 (L83) DOD Delete Kit (includes all parts I selected : “ is not working anymore it just says the cart is empty. Please fix love the series and I’m planning on trying myself.
Have a 6.2 2016 that’s still running strong at 164k and AFM is still intact. Considering deleting AFM as with the mileage and long trips that I do, would rather have some peace of mind that one more potential failure point is removed from the rig. Question - and I know that you’re doing performance mods as well but if you’re not adding performance mods, how does this affect gas mileage?
I have a question about the oil sprayers in the block to cool the piston top .Do they need to be blocked or are they blocked from the oil passages beneath the deactivation manifold? Oil consumption being more of a pain then anything else.
You will think that it would but apparently it doesn't. Asked the same question in a fb group and two guys said they had put a range in within the first 1000K miles and the failures still happened. It probably helps tho
@@TheSundaeDrive cool can you cover finding the lifter length in that? Im on the caddy race lifter. I had to make my own adjustable one by cutting and tapping a stock pushrod
You'll need a slightly different kit I believe. I would reach out to GPI and have them help you put together a kit. Ask for Ryan and tell him that Cliff sent you.
Awesome! Best of luck with it! Make sure to read through the video descriptions for some updates. Have a video coming out later this week or early next that will have some addition tips.
My friend, how are you? I am happy to follow you. I ask you to answer my question. I have a Yukon GMC 5.3 May 2008. I changed the machine and installed a 2011 machine. Capacity of 5.3 was light oil. I changed the package to Denali high pressure and the pressure did not rise. The same did not change, and when it turned from 8 Cylinder to 4 cylinder works backfire and looks at code p3401 p3441 p3425 and asked the owner of the machine he told me that the machine is iron and not its size
@@TheSundaeDrive thank , I’m looking at doing the same afm delete setup with my 2015 Silverado 5.3l , your videos are very helpful & GPI performance is awesome with with customers help as well .
Is it possible to do this in frame on a 2015 Tahoe XLT 4x4 I haven’t had a LT1 a part yet just wondering about the oil pump pick up deal THX for the videos !!!
You should be able to do it inside the truck. You will just need to pull the the front bumper and grille out of the way. You may also need to remove the front clip
I gotcha. You have to drop the oil pan. A bit to access it. This was one of the biggest reasons I pulled the motor. It would be so much nicer if they designed it so that it wasn't necessary to.
The Sundae Drive ok thx Man I’ve got it down to that and was fixing to just pull the motor, and probably will !!! This is some of the stupidest engineering I have ever seen in a vehicle lol Thx for the help and the videos !! Keep up the great work!!!
Such a toss up - I lean towards delete for peace of mind. However - my uncle in- law has 425’000 miles on his Silverado with AFM and still going strong. He has owned since new and is religious on his 3k mile oil and filter changes.
I have just over 116,000 on mine. I want to do this soon. How many miles did you have on yours when you did this? Nice video! I’m gonna watch part 3 next.
@@spencerhamilton8171 Iol yeah it is unfortunate. I still have all the parts for this motor I want to Dyno so I want to do that first. After that, maybe I'll do an L86 build. We'll see!
It is unnecessary to change camshaft - Because the lifters are the same size, they are different look, but absolutely use same size rods and arms. The rises of valves will be absolutely the same. And the difference in camshaft petals dod and non dod is 0,13 mm. And if you will change lifters with the guides non dod the height of valve lift will be same as stock and will be no misfires.
Woow so, let me get this straight. To delete the AFM all I need to do is replace the Non DOD Lifters with the lifter guides, the Non DOD Valley Cover and get it Tuned after done? Plus news gaskets and seals of course, is that correct?
What's is the mileage on your truck? Also, I've seen some other vids about this topic, one in particular mentioned the oil pump, does the DOD delete create an issue for the pressure being driven by a oil pump now working with different volume?
@@TheSundaeDrive Nice. I would like to do the mods myself, but as my daily driver and limited tool/ knowledge resources, I was looking into some shops doing it. The content you provide helps with finding the right shop to do the job. Very well done. Please keep it up!
Is there anything wrong with your truck just wondering why you're doing this I have a 2019 suburban with AFM 8 to 4 and wondering what I should look out for. Any help appreciated
You would have to reach out to them regarding that but most likely. I would strongly recommend a wide band and HP tuners tho. Will give you much better results than just a stock tune
Doesn't prevent the failure. The lifters might lastonger but they still have a design that is prone to failure. Many documented cases of it failing on vehicles running a range. Disappointing because that solution is much simpler
@@TheSundaeDrive I don't even know what that is brother. Today it started running like crap. I put stiff valve springs and found 3 bent push rods today... Been hitting the Rev limiter..
For a little bit more money, seems like a better idea to throw a crate long block or a built motor already instead of throwing all those parts on a higher mileage motor. Did anyone else go this route?
Fuel Rail Driver Side 12687244: Fuel Rail Passenger Side 12687245: HP Fuel Line 12677004: amzn.to/2XrsHf8 There is one more hard fuel line I need to find the part number for
@@TheSundaeDrive I thought I bought everything I needed for my build that is going into the shop in 48hours until I came across your video and realized I needed 4 gaskets and these two fuel lines I would have never thought of thank you so much!!!
Gm had this POS system back in 1981 with the 368 CI 6.3L Cadillac V-8-6-4 and it didn't work either one the DOD got disconnected the 368 engine ran fine. It such a POS that it was offered only in 1981 only. GM ideas are horrible in every way. We deleted these off the 368 engines all the time back in the 1990's
You could get a used one, but depending on how it was maintained, you could easily experience the failure again. The heads are the most expensive part and are not required. The simple dod delete can be done for under $1K
I know this is an old video but this series helped me tremendously when I decided to cam my car (something I had never done before). Thank you!
Awesome! Love hearing that!
Awesome choice going with GPI, I’m doing their SS4 cam on my camaro and their service is amazing. Ryan is the man.
Ryan is great 👍👍
If you’re in the Atlanta area. I disable the dod feature Monday thru Friday.
How much
I’m in ATL. How much on 2013 Tahoe?
Engine ! Electric motor - Internal combustion engine - electric motor Smart & correct !
I want to thank u . I'm looking to do the same thing. Yur parts list & links . Gave me all the info I needed . And parts I didnt think of . Cant wait to see yur Dyno numbers at the end.
Awesome! Hoping to finish up this series soon with the Dyno results. Just have been too busy to finish it up.
thank you for the detail and links and time you put into all of this!! so great to watch.
Thanks! Glad it is useful to you!
Looking forward to seeing your next videos.
Thanks! It is coming along!
Great video. Most likely thou most wont be able to do these.Like me ,No garage, Not enough tools ,and probably not enough knowledge to do it.🤣 Just gotta keep my fingers crossed my engine last.
Haha thanks! We are definitely lucky to have access to a well equipped garage. Hopefully it keeps chugging along for you! At least you'll be able to relax and watch us do it here 😉😂
Haha I appreciate the reference. That's definitely a way to do it :)
Thanks for the informative video. HP Tuner credits vary. 4 credits = $200 for a 17 Silverado 5.3. DOD was the first thing I did. It never activates now. Total cost with the ability to tune a large array of stuff was $600 plus tax.
Mines has a quite tick at idle with ls7 lifters brand new BTR cam oil pressure is fine.
Amazing video… x just had a shop do my 2013….. that didn’t use a new camshaft….is this the reason why it’s not running properly since this delete….. can here a lot of lifter noise unfortunately
I too have the 2014 ltz 5.3 and need to do this one day when warranty goes out. i'm running around with the rang technology...
How much do you have left on the warranty? 2014 has to be close to the 5 year mark. Range seems to be good from what I have heard but doesn't prevent the failure from happening sadly
@@TheSundaeDrive 175000 on powertrain warranty... mods done so far is borla atak exhaust kit, Airaid tube intake, oil catch can, and the range... really considering the camshaft along with afm delete and tune but don't know what's the recommended option for a daily driver vehicle with a little bit of fun on pedals too.
If you tow I would stick with a stage 1 cam. If not, you can probably go to a stage 2 for a bit more fun on a daily driver. All comes down to personal preference tho
@@TheSundaeDrive no on towing and will definitely be doing a little more DD before I pull the trigger, thank you sir.
Hey cliff, for the stage 1 cam you selected did you need to change out to wideband 02 sensors and larger injectors and was it necessary to dynamic tune after the upgrades?
I have the same truck. And I ordered the same GPI stage one cam. Can I re use the stock push rods?
I believe so but verify that with GPI
Did you have to do any transmission upgrades to run the stage 1 cam
I have 2014 LTZ 5.3l Z71 1500. I’m trying to gather the minimum list of parts to just delete the Dod/afm. I feel that I don’t understand complete engine tear down to do so. Could you share a list for parts? If just doing did/afm delete, can I keep the engine in the truck?
Watch through the full series and look at the description on the engine assembly video. I have all the gaskets etc you'll need there. In my opinion, it would be extremely difficult to do in the truck. I would always pull it when doing it myself on this and future trucks to make sure it is done right. Watch through the series and you'll see why. The oil pump is the issue because it sits down inside the oil pan and dropping the oil pan is really challenging if you have it in the truck. It is also sealed by rtv and not a gasket so the rtv needs to be replaced unless you want to chance an oil leak.
i have a 08 pontiac gp gxp so i know most of it is all relatively the same but for more power stage two or 3 bc i’ve read a form from summit racing saying you can’t push those cars over 400hp
Did you reuse your old fuel injectors or the OEM
I want to do this to my 2012 GMC Sierra. How has your pickup been since this video.
do you reccomend doing this on a 2018 silverado 1500 5.3l with over 150k miles
The link that says “
GPI 2014+ 5.3 (L83) DOD Delete Kit (includes all parts I selected : “ is not working anymore it just says the cart is empty. Please fix love the series and I’m planning on trying myself.
Do you need to get a valley cover ? Or just a gasket in so confused
This video is kind of old but is it confirmed that I can use my stock l83 cam and just use dod delete plugs and lifters?
Have a 6.2 2016 that’s still running strong at 164k and AFM is still intact.
Considering deleting AFM as with the mileage and long trips that I do, would rather have some peace of mind that one more potential failure point is removed from the rig.
Question - and I know that you’re doing performance mods as well but if you’re not adding performance mods, how does this affect gas mileage?
Wow this is quite old already. Will be doing this job next year. Want to start buying parts now. Your parts list link doesn’t work for me.
How many miles on your engine when you did this ?
I have a question about the oil sprayers in the block to cool the piston top .Do they need to be blocked or are they blocked from the oil passages beneath the deactivation manifold?
Oil consumption being more of a pain then anything else.
@christopher toomey ( i heard yes you should to stop the massive oil consumption)
Hey could you possibly send links for the second gen Silverado 2007-2014
Is it practicaly the same for the AFM delete on the 5.3 L86 and LS1
I'm getting ready to do this on my 08 what's the part number on the cam you pick
What engine do you have?
Is a 2015 6.2l motor a LS or an LT motor?
LT L86
@@TheSundaeDrive Thank you
No problem!
Does the Range technology AFM disable stop the engine damage? I have a 2018 Silverado.
You will think that it would but apparently it doesn't. Asked the same question in a fb group and two guys said they had put a range in within the first 1000K miles and the failures still happened. It probably helps tho
@@TheSundaeDrive so does doing this mod remove the issue where AFM nukes the heads/lifters?
When I put a dod/afm delete can I just tune it with my edge programer instead of using hp tuners??
I'm not familiar with the edge programmer. Maybe someone else will know.
What were the results from the intake manifold exchange?
We recently posted the Dyno results if you like through our last few videos!
What kind of oil you use.. same kind as before the cam job.. thanks
Haven't changed to a different one but you probably have a little more flexability after the delete
@@TheSundaeDrive thanx for the reply..just about to do my first oil change since cam job.. I thought I’d ask a pro like u broski👍. Thank you very much
No problem! Best of luck with it!
what lifters did you use to run a 7.850 pushrod? i got that size for my lt1 and it hangs the valves open
GM Performance. We will be shooting an lt1 build soon.
@@TheSundaeDrive cool can you cover finding the lifter length in that? Im on the caddy race lifter. I had to make my own adjustable one by cutting and tapping a stock pushrod
How much for a 2007 caddlic escalade 6.2 i just want new cam new lifters I just want to refresh everything
I have a 5.3 but it's a 06 ls4 grand prix gxp I'm looking to delete my system too!! Would this kit work on mine
You'll need a slightly different kit I believe. I would reach out to GPI and have them help you put together a kit. Ask for Ryan and tell him that Cliff sent you.
1000$ ,then 3700 because we are a dealer, we get 1000.00. Ge man. Thanks.
Hi, did you get any particular brand of afm lifter?
The lifter I went with is linked in the description. Went with gm performance.
Where’s the other link for the other hard fuel line? Do you have a part number? On the description it only showed one fuel hard line link.
meant to get that added in awhile ago so thank you for the reminder:
High Pressure Crossover Fuel Line 2: geni.us/HP-SFuelLine
GM PN: 12677002
@@TheSundaeDrive thank you so much. Doing the DOD delete , just waiting on parts.
Awesome! Best of luck with it! Make sure to read through the video descriptions for some updates. Have a video coming out later this week or early next that will have some addition tips.
@@TheSundaeDrive will do! Awesome video btw, I’ll be referencing my build with them.
Appreciate that! Glad to know they are helping you out!
My friend, how are you? I am happy to follow you. I ask you to answer my question. I have a Yukon GMC 5.3 May 2008. I changed the machine and installed a 2011 machine. Capacity of 5.3 was light oil. I changed the package to Denali high pressure and the pressure did not rise. The same did not change, and when it turned from 8 Cylinder to 4 cylinder works backfire and looks at code p3401 p3441 p3425 and asked the owner of the machine he told me that the machine is iron and not its size
What kind of lifters did you go with ?
Gm performance lifters. Link to them is in the description.
@@TheSundaeDrive thank , I’m looking at doing the same afm delete setup with my 2015 Silverado 5.3l , your videos are very helpful & GPI performance is awesome with with customers help as well .
Happy to help! The guys at GPI are super helpful, be sure to tell them we sent you if you chat with any of them.
Is it possible to do this in frame on a 2015 Tahoe XLT 4x4 I haven’t had a LT1 a part yet just wondering about the oil pump pick up deal THX for the videos !!!
You should be able to do it inside the truck. You will just need to pull the the front bumper and grille out of the way. You may also need to remove the front clip
The Sundae Drive can you get the oil pump off with the oil pan on ? That’s my biggest question thx
I gotcha. You have to drop the oil pan. A bit to access it. This was one of the biggest reasons I pulled the motor. It would be so much nicer if they designed it so that it wasn't necessary to.
The Sundae Drive ok thx Man I’ve got it down to that and was fixing to just pull the motor, and probably will !!! This is some of the stupidest engineering I have ever seen in a vehicle lol Thx for the help and the videos !! Keep up the great work!!!
Thanks! Best of luck with it!
What bolts did you use for exhaust? The ones you have linked are for 6.2 heads I thought you had a 5.3?
For the exhaust manifold to head bolts?
@@TheSundaeDrive yes correct
Such a toss up - I lean towards delete for peace of mind. However - my uncle in- law has 425’000 miles on his Silverado with AFM and still going strong. He has owned since new and is religious on his 3k mile oil and filter changes.
I have just over 116,000 on mine. I want to do this soon. How many miles did you have on yours when you did this? Nice video! I’m gonna watch part 3 next.
108K
Hope you enjoy the series! We are still finishing parts of the series and hopefully will have the last few videos up soon :)
So the question is can I just change the lifters and be done without doing all the other stuff
Sadly the cam is different from the research I've done. The lobes are not the same so the cam shaft does need to be swapped.
Why GPI vs texas speed vs AMS?
A friend uses them for their AFM delete on their Camaro and has a good experience so we went with them too 👍👍
Is it really necessary for the oil pump upgrade? And why?
No oil pump upgrade necessary. I'm still running my stock pump.
Where did you get the plugs for the oil holes in the dod delete
I got everything from GPI but there are a lot of places you can get them from
@@TheSundaeDrive I'm ls swapping my truck. Is the plugging of the holes required
If you are deleting the DOD system you either need to plug them or change out the vlom
When the heck are you guys finishing the videos and the dyno run?!
Did you watch our last two videos? Lol
I just saw it...lmao.. that’s super unfortunate, there are so full l86 power trains down here in ft worth for 3500$
@@spencerhamilton8171 Iol yeah it is unfortunate. I still have all the parts for this motor I want to Dyno so I want to do that first. After that, maybe I'll do an L86 build. We'll see!
It is unnecessary to change camshaft - Because the lifters are the same size, they are different look, but absolutely use same size rods and arms. The rises of valves will be absolutely the same. And the difference in camshaft petals dod and non dod is 0,13 mm. And if you will change lifters with the guides non dod the height of valve lift will be same as stock and will be no misfires.
So you're saying the original cam can work with either DOD lifters or regular hydraulic lifters?
@@toddsaladyga9712 Yes, that's right.
@@gm-master5331 That's great news! Do I still block off the oil returns in the valley?
@@toddsaladyga9712 Yes, you can see my video here, but it is not in English=) th-cam.com/video/v7UikeffaNA/w-d-xo.html
Woow so, let me get this straight. To delete the AFM all I need to do is replace the Non DOD Lifters with the lifter guides, the Non DOD Valley Cover and get it Tuned after done? Plus news gaskets and seals of course, is that correct?
Love your videos. Very detailed. I have a 5.3 that doesn’t have oil pumping out of the drive side rockers. Any suggestions? What can cause this?
Are the old oil valleys plugged? Was it a dod delete?
Ditto Kris questions, did you do A dod delete? Sorry I missed this comment
How well does it hold up? The front end
No problems so far 👍 have to make sure they prep it properly. If you can get a vinyl wrap that is close to your OEM color I would go that route tho
@@TheSundaeDrivecan also do clear vinyl. 3M makes some etc.
Do you have to tune after you delete AFM?
Yes, that is required
What's is the mileage on your truck? Also, I've seen some other vids about this topic, one in particular mentioned the oil pump, does the DOD delete create an issue for the pressure being driven by a oil pump now working with different volume?
108K and I asked GPI and they said that the pump is electronically controlled so that with proper tuning there is no issue with the stock pump.
@@TheSundaeDrive Nice. I would like to do the mods myself, but as my daily driver and limited tool/ knowledge resources, I was looking into some shops doing it. The content you provide helps with finding the right shop to do the job. Very well done. Please keep it up!
Thanks! Will do! Lots more videos coming
The one nice thing with going with GPI for the parts is they will tune it as well and are super helpful with any questions you have.
Is there anything wrong with your truck just wondering why you're doing this I have a 2019 suburban with AFM 8 to 4 and wondering what I should look out for. Any help appreciated
Can I send my ECM to GPI for tuning or do I have to buy some mechanism that stays plugged into the OBD port?
You would have to reach out to them regarding that but most likely. I would strongly recommend a wide band and HP tuners tho. Will give you much better results than just a stock tune
@@TheSundaeDrive I Appreciate you and will do! thanks for the reply!!
@@johnwilliams5371 you got it!
Damn son
How did you color match your front end?
Body shop painted it for me. Got a primered bumper and the painted over the chrome grille and light bezels
@@TheSundaeDrive o ok. The reason I asked is where I'm from a few of the body shops I've got to tell me they can't paints chrome bumper
They can with proper paint prep. Lots of sanding involved
No timing chain 😪
Can i get this on my 4.3 ecotech3 2wd ?
The hard part may be sourcing a cam. I would talk to gwatney or another performance shop and see what they have for your motor
how bout a range afm disabler. plug it in and be on your way. job done in 3min.
Doesn't prevent the failure. The lifters might lastonger but they still have a design that is prone to failure. Many documented cases of it failing on vehicles running a range. Disappointing because that solution is much simpler
The idea is there but yes those lifters are going to end up biting you in the ass later
What was your pushrod length?
7.850"
Ok just checking I heard a little tick when I got done. But I'm hearing it's just the fuel pump lobe .
Did you add a fuel lash?
@@TheSundaeDrive I don't even know what that is brother. Today it started running like crap. I put stiff valve springs and found 3 bent push rods today... Been hitting the Rev limiter..
@@TheSundaeDrive but they are stock pushrod with stiff springs thinking that's my problem...
Arlo Walks
2 videos and not one bolt out yet?
Looks like thhe wrong head for 5.3 but I could be wrong.
Yeah you called it lol
For a little bit more money, seems like a better idea to throw a crate long block or a built motor already instead of throwing all those parts on a higher mileage motor. Did anyone else go this route?
Nader Row
Witting Springs
Do i have to get new heads?
Corkery View
Emiliano Orchard
What's the part number for hard fuel lines?
Fuel Rail Driver Side 12687244:
Fuel Rail Passenger Side 12687245:
HP Fuel Line 12677004: amzn.to/2XrsHf8
There is one more hard fuel line I need to find the part number for
I got the other number: 12677002
@@TheSundaeDrive I thought I bought everything I needed for my build that is going into the shop in 48hours until I came across your video and realized I needed 4 gaskets and these two fuel lines I would have never thought of thank you so much!!!
Glad to help! There are a lot of parts so it's easy to miss some.
Willms Mission
Gm had this POS system back in 1981 with the 368 CI 6.3L Cadillac V-8-6-4 and it didn't work either one the DOD got disconnected the 368 engine ran fine. It such a POS that it was offered only in 1981 only. GM ideas are horrible in every way. We deleted these off the 368 engines all the time back in the 1990's
definitely a terrible system.
Aniya Harbors
Thiel Crossroad
So.. I was gonna swap cams without doing the dod delete. Long story short, here I am lmao
Lol welcome welcome. Def 100% recommend doing the delete
Toy Throughway
For that price, just buy a new engine.
You could get a used one, but depending on how it was maintained, you could easily experience the failure again. The heads are the most expensive part and are not required. The simple dod delete can be done for under $1K
.
Sent you an updated link on the dm
You could've just bought a new engine for 4k
Would have needed to delete the afm from that as well. Not worth the risk having it in the vehicle at all and being left stranded.
@@TheSundaeDrive You can buy a engine from Summit Racing.
good info but I didnt like how I kept having to skip through because it wasn't efficiently presented. AKA too bad of an advertising/content ratio.
Did you have to do any transmission upgrades to run the stage 1 cam
What Lifters did you end up going with?
Gm performance lifters. Linked in the description
@@TheSundaeDrive it was a dead link fyi.
Oh thank you for letting me know! I'll get that fixed
Part number for lifter trays?
And lifters
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