Discovery 2 TD5 Injector Seal Change. 10P Engine. (Big Lollopy Dog)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- So, the engine oil level was rising rapidly. Time to do the injector seals then.
If there is one thing that I can take from this job - it's learning not to stand on an upturned plant pot . . .
Question is, does it do the trick?
I bought a discovery 2 and I seem to be watching this channel a lot learning how to fix things that I had previously did not even know existed!!!
Thank you very very helpful!!!!
Good Luck with it. I hope you enjoy your tinkering!
Respect to you sir for not editing your mistake out (rocker not seated correctly) so that we may all learn!
That was a really tedious mistake which I should have spotted, but it was late, dark, and I was tired.!
Excellent video. Perfect timing and right gravity. Thank you for this lesson.
Happy to help!
Thanks from Germany,very calm and pleasant work!!
Maravilha eu tenho a Discovery 1 ano 98 e fiz TD isso graças a seu vídeo ... Me ajudou muito um grande abraço.
Obrigado, fico feliz em ajudar.
Eu pensei que um '98 Disco 1 seria um motor 300 TDi não o TD5?
Hi from Australia, Will be referring to your video when I have to do the injector seals. Really enjoying your videos - thanks so much!
Thanks very much!
Well filmed, well made and welcome - thanks
Hope it helped!
this is really good video about to see how to change injector seal change, thanks for your effot :)
Thank you. Glad it helps!
Awesome zoom in to detail shots there, really helps - cheers. Good vid
Glad it helps!
Hi my disco 2 s have some promblez
@@billyjoceexk1056 Yes, mine too. Sorry to hear that.
I changed my seals a couple of weeks ago, and yesterday I changed an injector, but it's leaking air into the fuel rail so I have to change the washer. I decided to watch this video to see if I can get any more information, low and behold, the spring clips don't need to be removed from the electrical connectors, have only owned td5s for 10 yrs!
Everyday is a school day!
Que buen mecánico eres . Me recuerdas a una persona que yo conocí en los años 70 .-
Gracias! Pero no, en realidad no. ¡Es una crisis tras otra en este momento!
@@sleepycatpictures1176 No te preocupes Derek , si estuviera ahí te ayudaría .
@@tomasgomez9175 Gracias Tomaz
@@sleepycatpictures1176 De nada amigo Derek
@@tomasgomez9175 ¡Gracias!
Hi there, good to see you back on, at 20. 42 on the video the number 1 injector seat on the left hand side in the center it looks like an hairline crack , i hope i am wrong but i saw one like that on another video with a td5.GOOD LOOK TAKE CARE , STAY WELL cheers Mick.
I did not spot that. I'll have another look!
You could be right. I can reveal now that the oil level is still rising after just a week of going to and from work. It was not the injector seals, unfortunately.
did you end up removing the head. Or did you get someone to weld it in situ? how quick to the oil rise. 3mm in 500kms?
@@troymortimer3487 Roughly 80 miles. It's difficult to be precise because I stopped using the Disco to save the bottom end. The cams are toast but hopefully they will come with another second-hand head. Due to the 'spare car' MOT failure, I had to go back to using the Disco. Then, after a week, I broke my ankle at work! so nothing has changed! The Disco is sat outside doing nothing, and there's another week to go yet! I'll have to use it on my return to work as is. Nothing is going to move on the spares front for a while I reckon. I was going to drain a litre of oil off every week and replace with 250ml of 10-40 in the hope of keeping the bottom end decent.
spotted that too, about 9 o clock on the seat
At 47:54 when you adjust the contact on the "valve" stem: With the cam all the way to the top, you back off the screw one turn and lock in place. If you do this adjustment, then surely screw side of that rocker arm will never touch the top of the "valve" stem (because the cam drops away during the rest of its rotation). I'm most probably understanding it wrong....
That's just to make sure there is enough clearance so the stem is never in permanent contact. Like rocker valve clearences.
@@sleepycatpictures1176 Just thought that with the cam at the highest position on the opposite side of the stem that when the cam lobe then drops away, the adjustment screw goes even further away from the stem (so it will never touch the stem no matter what the cam position is).
@@big5astra Ah, don't forget that the screw is all the way to the bottom, so it's open to the max. Then you back off to create clearance.
@@sleepycatpictures1176 I think we're talking "past" each other a bit - and I may well not be understanding fully what's going on with the rocker settings for the injector. But it's nice to chat anyway!! I've done lots of rocker settings on my own (old) cars so I understand the requirement to have clear space between the rocker and the valve stem at the point where the valve should be completely closed - but I'm still a bit baffled here. I'll try to explain why a bit better. Sooo, I can see when you rotate the cam so the highest point of the cam is pushing on the roller thus pushing the stem down on the opposite side of the rocker arm to the maximum depressed position. All good so far! Now you seem to back off the adjustment screw to completely get rid of any depression of the stem and back it off a further turn. So the cam is at its highest point pushing the rocker down as far as it can on the injector side. But you've adjusted it so the adjustment screw is not touching the stem on the injector side. With this scenario, how will any change in the cam position ever be able to depress the stem on the injector side if it doesn't touch the stem at all even when the cam is at its highest point? Hope you can see my "dilemma"!! and apologies for the rather lengthy description here :)
@@big5astra Ah, I think I see. It's probably me that has not explained properly. Screw the adjuster down until it 'bottoms out', then back off one turn. The injector is still under tension at that point, just not all the way to the bottom.
Grande ese vídeo, muchas gracias!!
It was worth it if it helps someone else!
Great video and job, again you make a daunting job look easy.
Unfortunately, I've got to sell my Discovery 2 as I have lost my job. If anyone is interested in a td5 the same colour as yours, rust free, leave comment.
Oh, sorry to hear that. Disco 2's are expensive beasts to keep!
@@sleepycatpictures1176 But lots of fun! Getting cheaper to maintain - internet helps a lot!
How do you know this job needs doing? What are the symptoms? Cheers. Edit: i should have read the description notes!
The engine oil level goes up as it gets thinned down by the diesel.
When you check your oil level with the dipstick you should (apart from slight level increase) detect a distinct diesel fuel smell on the dipstick - follow your nose!
Great video, really helpful. Just 1 question though.. is it the injectors themselves that are coded to the ECU or does the ECU just send the signal to fire down the loom and the injectors are generic and can be fitted in any sequence? Many thanks.
The injectors are coded to the ECU. They must go back in the same places they came out of. That's why I did them one at a time!
Sleepy Cat Pictures brilliant, thanks for that.
if you look at the top of the injectors .. the codes are written on top of them.
Make a note of which code goes with each cylinder. I get in the habit of actually taking photos of all BEFORE starting to dismantle.
If you're changing injectors .. keep in mind there are different colours .. eg. 'green top' for the 15P EU3 engine. They are not interchangeable as far as I am aware.
@@davidhuett3579 Yes, not interchangeable.
Great video! But as you said, does it do the trick?
No, the head is cracked!
Hi, what tool were you using to remove the injectors?
The official £100 tool. Although to be honest, a kind subscriber lent me one. I would have bought the proper one though. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362187085940?hash=item5454085874:g:FaQAAOSwH3haMpuT&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8JjXOyBz6yPmMyGmgDl7%2FsW7KF7aY04PRNBS4TWUNB7jIkANaJMfGX%2BhhI1KmoPHWEpwXKs9kmd0W3GqXswtun9Ttm83XgYPTnDcras09e%2F1rfk3t0m6h5b81jlmPCksWVx8Fe0MUeQMIGK0NI1OeKjuoKpW2swzJgDmKdaLOZ8wIpUGf%2BrOPStW0EmsZH7dyBfWF7BX%2FYzCyed3WP%2FIGSTwRzwsjRpZhE61n9I8%2ByH7TmNweMa1YzSIFY1thcj%2B5RBOKVhBInkwToKudSRsxB44W6bA94KKNRR10v6SRT13ZoJN7GAEHo11ZNOI4hG1DQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1OXIkexg
@@sleepycatpictures1176 Swan-neck (water pump) pliers disassembled - use the L-shaped one - removes them easily - idea is to lift straight up and not lever back and forth potentially damaging the seal below.
@@intestinalworm1202 Sounds feasible. Still be tempted to buy the proper tool though!
Turn ignition on the stamp the accelerator 5x and this will purge the air.
Sorry, didn't quite understand that but it sounds useful, could you explain please; Appreciated, thanks.
@@docbodholt2384 when the key is turned in the ign, tap 5 times the accelerator and the ecu will bleed the fuel lines. The engine orange symbol will blink during the operation
Buy a new head. And dont put rtv on the valve cover gasket.
I was going to do, until generous amounts of rot were found in the MOT!
@@sleepycatpictures1176 that sucks mate
@@jsheavy3923 Yes it did. I put thousands into that thing!
@@sleepycatpictures1176 Rot can be sorted. I take it that it was inner wings and rear chassis from shockers to the very rear.
Im a mechanic and work on lots of Land Rovers and your video will help lots of folk wanting to do the injectors themselves. Nicely done.
@@jammyjohnny9819 Outriggers too. The whole thing was just worn out. Cheers, Derek.