Great advice. I also like to have an air nozzle in my other hand when tacking. Just in case your tack rag knocks something loose and doesn't pick it up. A little air will help.
As someone who just occasionally paint stuff and tried to learn how to do stuff “properly” I can tell you right of the bat that learning how to mix and spray is the easiest part. Dust free controlled environment, good spray gun and surface prep, surface prep and surface prep are the key. Unfortunately for most of us, having a proper spray booth is out of reach. Don’t fool yourself, you can’t just build a “tent” in one half of your garage.
@@HackMasterBlaster I don't think so either, I have worked with European booths, all down drafts, being then 8m long, 4m wide and 3/3.5m tall, they were max 30/35
I always enjoy watching you teaching the correct way to paint. Your teaching methods are just spot on without wasting time over talking what your teaching or other wastes of time like being silly, adding small talk, etc. I have learned many things from your videos. Thank you. Don S.
The nastiest thing that happened to me was I used to tack rag a fender, and it was around 40 Celsius outside, and about the same inside my shop, and my hand was wet inside the glove. I didn’t see that coming, but the sweat started dripping on fender, covered in first layer of base, and I was like “good job getting off that one tiny piece of fiber”.🤣 So I’m patiently waiting for Brian to upload a video on “how to get rid of sweat runs on your panels in between base coats”.
Hey Brian. I remember when I had your energy. Spraying cars till 7:30pm. Come in before starting your teaching job. Check out your job from the night before. I commend you. The blend came out perfect. The clear looks super slick. Take care my brother. One more day till the weekend. Enjoy!!!
I always fold my suit tight to body and tape it. Blow off my shoulders ,arms & chest area outside the spray area. Mix my color , tac , spray my base , tac again , then clear. Sweats a bitch. The Z06 you see I painted couple months ago and dropped sweat and had to buff a place on door. 😡 goodwork. Good advice
To help with sweat I like the trickster blue gloves. They are long and go over my sleeve so that way and sweat will collect in the glove instead of dripping out.
Paint society I have a challenge for you I would like to see you paint anything no matter what size it is that's metal with brownnels rattle can alumahyde paint
Brain thank you for all your valuable video's, advice and information. I need to spray /match a fender on a 1956 Austin saloon (UK vehicle). The existing paint is cellulose/solvent paint. Can you offer any advice when spraying this older type of paint. Your advice would be very much appreciated.
My bumper cover has a small quarter sized spot where the clear has peeled. Exposed paint still intact. Is it ok for me to 800 grit and re-clear the whole bumper or should i re-base? I get conflicting advise from different people. Not super picky as its my daily driver. I just want it to stick
In watching your videos ----- there is a -- LOT -- of info to pick up on ----- I have a car I want to do in H.O.K. ---- will probably be next spring since summer is winding down --- might be able to get the engine compartment done ---- Has been years --- so new gun is needed --- went through Eastwood since I am a long time customer with them ---- and I did see your review of their guns ---- you have a booth there --- maybe temperature control and GOOD exhaust fans ----- So with you having a good deal of fumes removed ---- I see you don't use a Full Face Respirator only the half mask ----- In gathering all this info and I'm seeing things different ---- I thought that with the Urethanes a Full Face is needed ---- one ---- for our Lungs ----- secondly a Full Face for the protection of the eyes and skin since the isocyanates enter through the eyes and skin ----- am I missing something ---- or is it just H.O.K. products are so bad ------ the paints / clear that you use ------ are they different ----- you do have a Good exhaust fan system that removes those fumes ----- Would like to hear what have to say on this ----- Thank You for sharing all your Tips and Technics and the Reviews ------ Got a lot of notes --- hopefully will keep reviewing them and apply when time comes ------ Wondering which Respirator to go with -------Thanks Again ------ Rodney
I’m sorry. I didn’t get it. 1. You’ve used a sealer, 2. then partially covered right fender, bonnet and the door in base, while fully covering the replacement fender in base. 3. You’ve applied pearl over the same places you’ve just covered in base coat. 4. You’ve applied a full layer of base over pearl, while blending it on the door, right fender and the part of the bonnet over the right fender (closer to the windshield). With “6-8 inches overlapping the previous coat” rule. 5. And then you’ve finished the job with the clear coat. So my question is: Does it work like that, when you apply pearls under one layer of base, because of this one last layer of base is partially transparent? I’ve previously watched several of yours “blending pearls secrets” videos, and as far as I remember, it was pearl over base.🤔What’s the difference between techniques of applying pearl before clearcoating and applying another layer of base over pearl before clearcoating? Or is this video turning out to be the one new “ultimate blending pearls guide” for me?😂
Hey bro have u used octobase from valspar (octoral solvent base) . I have been using wb from sikkens, lesonal, spies hecker, glasurit, almost everything you could imagine and everything came out perfect. At my new yob they have octobase, and for the life of me this base is almost impossible to get mottle free (be it minimal), not slow reducer, not cross hatching, not reduced nor overpressuring the gun. The distance almost doesnt matter. I even tried diluting the paint 90% overlap nothing and its driving me nuts. Dont get me wrong i have been paintin for 16 or 17 years, high class cars i really take time to get to know every new paint, but as i said this one is a nightmare. Let me add that no client ever notices it not even my boss who is a painter himself. But i notice it in the booth. I have been in contact and seen other painters use the same base with even more mottle. Its always mottly specialy the light silvers. Ps. The gun i use is a 1.3 supernova basecoat. Any ideas?
That 1.3 tip is going to be too small you need a bigger droplet size and lower air pressure . Your paint may seem like it is landing nice and wet and smooth but it isn’t probably because the reducer isn’t the highest quality in that system like you’re used to . I would use a 1.4 tip hvlp sata jet 5500 “I” pattern fan at 20 psi . Or a dv1 digital 1.4 at 14 psi . Or the newest iwata series 2 at around 18 to 19 psi in a 1.4. If that doesn’t work I would try to find a better quality reducer to put in your base coat . Valspar owns octoral so maybe look at some of the reducers in that family . The wetter those droplets are the better off you are going to be . Remember iwata guns atomize finer so you need to lower their pressure otherwise the paint will land dry because the base is being over atomized
You have to air out some tack rags . I always unfold my tack rags and let them air out for about 30 minutes and I pinch the center and ball them up lightly . If they are lightly balled up all the creases and edges pick up more lint then just a flat folded rag because you increase the surface area . Fresh tack rags I never push hard on the panel i just lightly glide over the panels
Great advice. I also like to have an air nozzle in my other hand when tacking. Just in case your tack rag knocks something loose and doesn't pick it up. A little air will help.
I do the same thing.
A "stupid" and easily forgotten tip that is very important.
Most of the time I just use air from the spray gun..
As someone who just occasionally paint stuff and tried to learn how to do stuff “properly” I can tell you right of the bat that learning how to mix and spray is the easiest part. Dust free controlled environment, good spray gun and surface prep, surface prep and surface prep are the key. Unfortunately for most of us, having a proper spray booth is out of reach. Don’t fool yourself, you can’t just build a “tent” in one half of your garage.
Lol! The 100 plus thousand dollar paint booth is the key!
And most off the time the new parts and blends....😂😂😂
100k? I wish!!!
More like $35k
@@HackMasterBlaster I don't think so either, I have worked with European booths, all down drafts, being then 8m long, 4m wide and 3/3.5m tall, they were max 30/35
Good job Brian! About time someone made a video on tack rags . Beat me to the punch !
Youre next!
@@PaintSociety we will see what trick I have up my sleeve next 🤣😬😬😬😬😬😬
Another amazing video with a great wealth of knowledge. God bless, brother
I always enjoy watching you teaching the correct way to paint. Your teaching methods are just spot on without wasting time over talking what your teaching or other wastes of time like being silly, adding small talk, etc. I have learned many things from your videos. Thank you. Don S.
I remember from past videos you saying to use gloves when handling tac rags because your hands might transfer sweat and oils.
Yup!!
The nastiest thing that happened to me was I used to tack rag a fender, and it was around 40 Celsius outside, and about the same inside my shop, and my hand was wet inside the glove. I didn’t see that coming, but the sweat started dripping on fender, covered in first layer of base, and I was like “good job getting off that one tiny piece of fiber”.🤣 So I’m patiently waiting for Brian to upload a video on “how to get rid of sweat runs on your panels in between base coats”.
Hey Brian. I remember when I had your energy. Spraying cars till 7:30pm. Come in before starting your teaching job. Check out your job from the night before. I commend you. The blend came out perfect. The clear looks super slick. Take care my brother. One more day till the weekend. Enjoy!!!
Another good lesson. Thank you
9:00 after watching dozens of your videos, the teacher part is what I found most interesting.
I was going to say the same thing - and if Brian teaches kids like he teaches us on TH-cam, those are lucky kids! 👍
great job brian thank you for all your content ❤
I always fold my suit tight to body and tape it. Blow off my shoulders ,arms & chest area outside the spray area. Mix my color , tac , spray my base , tac again , then clear. Sweats a bitch. The Z06 you see I painted couple months ago and dropped sweat and had to buff a place on door. 😡 goodwork. Good advice
Thanks Brian.All the way from South Africa
To help with sweat I like the trickster blue gloves. They are long and go over my sleeve so that way and sweat will collect in the glove instead of dripping out.
Brian,
What is the ideal size for the hose? And what material should it be? Thank you for sharing your craft.
Thank you on all your videos!
Do you use anti-static gun every time before recoating ? Will anti-static guns work on wood or drywall?
Paint society I have a challenge for you I would like to see you paint anything no matter what size it is that's metal with brownnels rattle can alumahyde paint
Nice work! I'm seeing now that I abude my tack rag. What brand of clear are you using?
Brain thank you for all your valuable video's, advice and information. I need to spray /match a fender on a 1956 Austin saloon (UK vehicle). The existing paint is cellulose/solvent paint. Can you offer any advice when spraying this older type of paint. Your advice would be very much appreciated.
Greatjob!
Hey Brian one question, does the flash off time increase if you are using slow hardener or extra slow for clear coat and reducer?
My bumper cover has a small quarter sized spot where the clear has peeled. Exposed paint still intact. Is it ok for me to 800 grit and re-clear the whole bumper or should i re-base? I get conflicting advise from different people. Not super picky as its my daily driver. I just want it to stick
How can I get in contact with you and your shop for a complete paint job for a very paint damaged car.
In watching your videos ----- there is a -- LOT -- of info to pick up on ----- I have a car I want to do in H.O.K. ---- will probably be next spring since summer is winding down --- might be able to get the engine compartment done ---- Has been years --- so new gun is needed --- went through Eastwood since I am a long time customer with them ---- and I did see your review of their guns ---- you have a booth there --- maybe temperature control and GOOD exhaust fans ----- So with you having a good deal of fumes removed ---- I see you don't use a Full Face Respirator only the half mask ----- In gathering all this info and I'm seeing things different ---- I thought that with the Urethanes a Full Face is needed ---- one ---- for our Lungs ----- secondly a Full Face for the protection of the eyes and skin since the isocyanates enter through the eyes and skin ----- am I missing something ---- or is it just H.O.K. products are so bad ------ the paints / clear that you use ------ are they different ----- you do have a Good exhaust fan system that removes those fumes ----- Would like to hear what have to say on this ----- Thank You for sharing all your Tips and Technics and the Reviews ------ Got a lot of notes --- hopefully will keep reviewing them and apply when time comes ------ Wondering which Respirator to go with -------Thanks Again ------ Rodney
Fifteen minutes later?! Exaggerating how long it takes to open the tack rag all the way up or are we waiting for some volatile component to evaporate?
Use after 15 minute so it can “flash”
Yo , can someone please explain what "wet coat" or medium wet etc... and how to achieve it.
hey brian quick question u the only person i trust and that used both the apollo and fuji turbine systems..which do u recommend ?
Watch the moisture doesn't drip out of your mask and no flying bugs follow you into the booth at night.
you work as a elementaryteacher during the days and do your car sprays in the evening/afternoons? i thought you were a full time body/paint guy :D
Part time painter
Is Bulldog Adhesion Promoter as effective as the sealer you applied? Thank you!
Is it true tack rags can cause fish eyes? From the residue
I’m sorry. I didn’t get it. 1. You’ve used a sealer, 2. then partially covered right fender, bonnet and the door in base, while fully covering the replacement fender in base. 3. You’ve applied pearl over the same places you’ve just covered in base coat. 4. You’ve applied a full layer of base over pearl, while blending it on the door, right fender and the part of the bonnet over the right fender (closer to the windshield). With “6-8 inches overlapping the previous coat” rule. 5. And then you’ve finished the job with the clear coat.
So my question is: Does it work like that, when you apply pearls under one layer of base, because of this one last layer of base is partially transparent? I’ve previously watched several of yours “blending pearls secrets” videos, and as far as I remember, it was pearl over base.🤔What’s the difference between techniques of applying pearl before clearcoating and applying another layer of base over pearl before clearcoating? Or is this video turning out to be the one new “ultimate blending pearls guide” for me?😂
Whats a good spray gun cleaner?
3:00 Are you sure this is the 2nd coat of base ?
Second coat of pearl* good catch
Hey bro have u used octobase from valspar (octoral solvent base) . I have been using wb from sikkens, lesonal, spies hecker, glasurit, almost everything you could imagine and everything came out perfect. At my new yob they have octobase, and for the life of me this base is almost impossible to get mottle free (be it minimal), not slow reducer, not cross hatching, not reduced nor overpressuring the gun. The distance almost doesnt matter. I even tried diluting the paint 90% overlap nothing and its driving me nuts. Dont get me wrong i have been paintin for 16 or 17 years, high class cars i really take time to get to know every new paint, but as i said this one is a nightmare. Let me add that no client ever notices it not even my boss who is a painter himself. But i notice it in the booth. I have been in contact and seen other painters use the same base with even more mottle. Its always mottly specialy the light silvers. Ps. The gun i use is a 1.3 supernova basecoat. Any ideas?
That 1.3 tip is going to be too small you need a bigger droplet size and lower air pressure . Your paint may seem like it is landing nice and wet and smooth but it isn’t probably because the reducer isn’t the highest quality in that system like you’re used to . I would use a 1.4 tip hvlp sata jet 5500 “I” pattern fan at 20 psi . Or a dv1 digital 1.4 at 14 psi . Or the newest iwata series 2 at around 18 to 19 psi in a 1.4. If that doesn’t work I would try to find a better quality reducer to put in your base coat . Valspar owns octoral so maybe look at some of the reducers in that family . The wetter those droplets are the better off you are going to be . Remember iwata guns atomize finer so you need to lower their pressure otherwise the paint will land dry because the base is being over atomized
Whats ur spray gun setup
I paint outside
Every time I try to use a tack cloth that leaves stuff behind and it's sticky gross. Idk wtf I'm doing wrong
You have to air out some tack rags . I always unfold my tack rags and let them air out for about 30 minutes and I pinch the center and ball them up lightly . If they are lightly balled up all the creases and edges pick up more lint then just a flat folded rag because you increase the surface area . Fresh tack rags I never push hard on the panel i just lightly glide over the panels
@@austinthebeast33 thanks. I'll try that👍
K1X ?
Yeah doesn’t work in my garage
Buffing looks better anyways