Superb video. Very clear. Very concise. Complete absence of presenter gimmickry. And no stupid music playing when the presenter is speaking, so the only sound is the voice of the presenter and metallic clear click of the devices being connected - really. Thank you!
Attention off-grid folks: :Tesla advises to keep your car plugged in when not in use )ie when you get home from work). But like me, what if you do NOT have a 110 service, I live off-grid in a house I built myself, There are separate and redundant systems for each area: living room kitchen, bathroom etc. I bought my long range model 3 on June 2, 2021 in Portland OR and charged it 100% in Bend Oregon. (356 miles) I live 135 miles east in Christmas Valley and arrived with 219 miles. Over the course of the next three days I drove less than 8 miles a day but every morning I showed a loss of an additional 20 miles. Tesla explained that one can never shut the Tesla off as there are numerous component that require power. I got a bit nervous as I only had 150 miles of range left and the nearest Supercharger was in Klamath Falls Oregon 130 miles west. I made it with 12 miles of range remaining. So range is an elusive number. It depends on your use of the air conditioner and how often you make it go super fast. Prior to purchasing my model 3 I asked all over the internet how I could use the sun to charge at home. (True, I could have gone a mile or so to a neighbor to charge overnight but elected not to.) So here is my solution: I bought 8 one hundred watt solar panels i wired in parallel to make 24 volts and then in series (four 24 volts) which cost about $800 with the cables and clamps. An MPPT charge controller accepting 12 or 24 volts which cost $279, two 12 volt deep cycle batteries costing $280 and a 10,000 watt modified sine wave inverter costing $229. Cables and fuses cost another $134, For a grand total of $1801. This inverter provides 220 volts and charges 28 miles per hour.Anyone living off grid with no access to 110 might find my solution will work for them. In short you may not need to visit a supercharger that often.
I've watched this video twice now and I chuckle every time it begins. First it is very informative and well made and I thank you for sharing it. Now, back to my chuckling. When I was growing up in the 50's and 60's there was an old moonshiner in our county, when you visited him (and bought some of his moonshine) he would say "Thanks for stopping by.' The chuckle comes when I think of his grave marker, which says across the bottom, "Thanks for stopping by."
A chinese guy listened your video :) it is so easy to understand your voice and your information is clearly conveyed to me. It makes me to think about my professor at mcgill university. You did a good job, sir
When I got my solar, I included a NEMA 14-50 outlet. I used the mobile connector that came with my Model Y with a NEMA 14-50 adapter for about a week and wasn’t satisfied with the 27 miles an hour. I figured the most cost effective solution was to buy the Tesla mobile charger that had the dedicated NEMA 14-50 plug for about $600 with tax vs. $1,500 to have the V3 charger hard wired. I get a satisfactory 37 miles an hour and don’t have to plug and unplug the charger from the outlet.
I did not know that there is a dedicated 14-50 mobile charger. I just bought the 14-50 adapter for the charger that came with the car. Never had trouble getting to a 85% charge from 20% (or less) overnight. The adapter cost $30. I'm not going to spend $600. Also why do you have to plug and unplug the charger from the outlet?
I assume your "solar" is a grid tied type and not stand alone. 50 amps pulling off a stand alone system would be way too much for most systems. We don't even like to use electric heaters which pull about 12 amps.
My ex-gF would attest to this. She pulled out a dryer connector LIVE and the Spark jumping from the outlet to the cable plug in her hand was like a bolt of lightning! Of course, I would have turned Off the circuit breaker first, but she thought she knew better!
Depends which part. You definitively should not pull out the part going to the socket on the wall while the car is charging. The plug that do plug to the car, usually does lock. But even if it not locks (due to mechanical failure, or a really low temperature), when you pull it out, the car will detect that the signal pins are disconnected and the power is still flowing, but the charging unit is not communicating anymore. Within milisecond the car will stop charging. By the time you reach the point of disconnecting the pins that do carry current, there would be no current flowing anymore, preventing any arcing. Still, don't do it! Go to the car and stop charging. Or to the wall unit and tell it to tell the car to stop. Only when you see no current, or the proper color of the light in the car, unplug the plug.
@Jack Redford In the car you can terminate charging. On most charging units, there might also be a button to tell the car to stop charging. There might be more options. But never unplug the plug from the wall first. Always disconnect the plug in the car first. And same in reverse. First plug to the wall. Then plug the car. Read the manual of the car and the charging unit (EVSE - electric vehicle supply equipement) before using it.
@Jack Redford The DRYER was disconnected. The outlet was LIVE as was the Circuit breaker to the dryer outlet. We had not installed the 240 volt plug wires into the dryer... She was carrying them in her hand, not realizing the rear end of the wires were touching each other. So as she approached the outlet with the plug end the AC arc'ed at her from the outlet... Scaring the BeJesus out of her!
Most of these EV vids just serve to make us "Comfortably Numb" Their lips move but we just can’t hear what they’re saying. You are a treasure of info👍. Just got our model Y. So.. "Wish You Were Here".
I've been studying joining the Model 3 group of owners. I have to admit that the aspect of managing the task of charging on a cross country trip is somewhat daunting. The added time to the trip for recharging stops is taking me some time to work out. Anyway, nice explanation and well delivered. Great job!
In my experience, a long day on a road trip covering 500 to 600 miles includes 3 or 4 charging stops, each about 20 minutes. You can do fewer longer charging sessions if desired. I usually charge while eating lunch, so that one doesn't waste any time. Overall slightly less convenient than gas stations, but not remotely difficult. For everyday usage it's super convenient if you can plug in at home. Never need to stop for gas on your way to work. No waiting for the car to fill up. Start each day with a full tank, so to speak.
On a gas vehicle, I stop every couple of hours for pee or snack breaks. I see charging time as a matter of time management. Look for Superchargers along your route using your cars map program. These chargers take a few minutes to charge and those same breaks won't add any time to your road trip if you use them while you eat a meal or spend time in the bathroom. If you plan to stay overnight in a hotel, many hotels offer Charging stations to charge while you sleep. Someeven give the charging for free, although they may not all be Superchargers, the time spent charging would not affect your trips duration in overall time.
The onboard navigation calculates the stops and charging. If you have to eat and use the restroom then do it when it charges instead of fuel for 5 and park for 20 while you eat and use the restroom
Good point to plug the J1772 adaptor into the car 1st then the charging cable into the adaptor.. I would not have thought to do it in that sequence. It’s not obvious. It’s good you pointed that out.
You know, I didn't expect much out of this video, but it's REALLY useful for those of us who don't yet own Teslas (or an EV). Thanks so much for putting it out on the interwebs :)
This was the most informative video I have seen on Tesla charging... No Jibber Jabber straight to the point with great explanation... Thank you this helped a lot.
EV Dave is GREAT! Here is a guy who clearly knows what he is talking about and can communicate to the lay public. Like many people I had a lot of questions about and also an unclear understanding about home charging. He was able to answer these in a very clear and concise fashion. Thanks to EV Dave I now know how to proceed. Many thanks Dave!!
A great tutorial. The official term for those "boxes" you plug into your car is Electric Vehicle Service Equipment aka EVSE. And FWIW I NEVER touch the plug on my Clipper Creek HCS-50P with a NEMA 14-50 plug until I switch off that breaker.
There's nothing wrong with turning off your breaker, of course, but you will - over time - wear it out faster. Probably not an issue in real life, but turning it off before plugging in the NEMA 14-50 plug really is unnecessary. Save yourself the time and bother; I promise you this will NOT be an issue for you. Really.
@@bobham3471 good info, and to be honest since we bought our Tesla Model Y I’m using the J1772 adapter they provide and it charges my Tesla at 9 kW or 35 mph so that’s the only thing I need to touch charging our Volt and Tesla. I thought I’d have to share that plug between the CC and Tesla EVSE.
We bought a VW ID.4 a little over a year ago use a 240V NEMA 14-50 outlet to provide power to our Electrify America EVSE in the garage. That charges our ID.4 and recently has taken on additional duties keeping our 2022 Model 3 charged up. The included J1772 to NACS connector for Tesla came in handy. We charge 95% at home and it works well for us. Great video...
By code, a 14-50 outlet must be connected to a 50 amp breaker. Of course, when I installed the outlet in my second house I could only fit in a 30 amp breaker so I do have to limit it down below the default 40 amps ( I have an older USMC before they nerfed it ). I did also lower it at my old house though because 40 amps got the cable pretty warm.
Phil, be careful here. The nec article 625. Car power transfer, calls for you to rate your car charger as a continuous load and the circuit rated at 125% of the load served. So, a 50 amp breaker and wire can only run a 40 amp charger and so on. Remember that it is the maximum charger rating us where you start. So, if you charger max is 30 amps (no matter the setting you select.....maximum) you need a 40 amp circuit for the 37.5 amp rating. Good luck.
@@keithharrington4595 My point was to distinguish between what is required by code, and what is safe and/or possible in my circumstance. I'm quite aware that code says I should not have wired it this way, but that was the best I could do and given that I limit the charging current the car actually pulls even lower than the breaker, it is perfectly safe. Even if I ran it at the full 30 amps the breaker allows, it would still be perfectly safe given the 50 amp rated wires.
Good to know about the adaptors, thanks. 220 volts really made charging at home a non event. So much easier than going to a gas station. No way would I ever consider owning an ICE vehicle ever again. I save $1500 in fuel every year, which adds up, and electric performance is so much more pleasant and fun.
Nice video, but I disagree on one point. Having the wall charger is great but your example does not make sense to me. If I need a quick charge that's a supercharger. Find it odd when I would need a quick charge at home. My home charging is always overnight. I rarely have less than 50% battery and if I forget to charge I can still drive the next day, but If somehow I need to top up really quick 48 vs 32 is faster but still not fast. The price difference is so big, I could not justify it, but now if I get a second tesla then I see a benefit. Save yourself some cash and skip the wall charger in 99% you won't tell the difference but your bank account will.
You got me when talking about charging a Tesla but then the Pink Floyd t-shirt was icing on the cake! I have the original “Dark Side of the Moon” album in 33 and it still sounds phenomenal!!
I was doing research all day to put together a full cost plan for when I buy a car. Project for the day was charging. You helped answer my final charging questions. Thank you!
I believe it is mostly to communicate between multiple wall connectors, i.e. if they are on a shared circuit, or on separate circuits, but there is a combined limit on the building supply.
Nice video :). A friendly correction regarding the 120VAC/15A circuit. At 80%, one can expect to be provided with 120VAC/12A which works out to 1440W (1.44kW). In your video, it stated 2500W which is incorrect. Possibly a typo as one could say 1500W at near 80%. Liked and Subscribed!
The standard in new houses these days for 120 volt circuits is 20 amps, so you can set the charge rate to 16 amps provided that it is a dedicated circuit.
I think you MIGHT be able to do that if you can get the appropriate connector from Tesla, and maybe you can, cuz I don't know! What I do know is that the 120V connector supplied with the Tesla charger cable is a 15A connector and they're not going to try to pump 16A through it, cuz that puts an unacceptable over-stress on the connector and the wiring connecting to it. The outlets you're talking about CAN provide 20A IF your 120V/20A plug has a horizontal "hot" connector; the 15A connector does not. Both types will fit into a 20A female outlet, but the 120V male plug supplied by Tesla does NOT have a horizontal "hot" pin, and is therefor expected by Tesla to supply the system with 15A, not 20A. That means that with that connector, Tesla assumes only 15A are available for use, even though the female wall connector COULD supply 20A if Tesla was willing to accept it. With the 15A adapter, Tesla will accept only 15A, not 20A. And then they turn it down further to 80% of that, or 12A. If they thought you wanted to plug into the same outlet with a 120V/20A plug, they'd have provided it and the Tesla box would have taken that into account and set up the Tesla charging circuit accordingly. However, I do not know whether or not they sell a 120V/20A plug-in adapter, but I'm going to try to find out today, as I think that could be useful under some circumstances far away from home.
@@bobham3471 Tesla does sell the 20A /120V adapter with the horizontal prong. If I was to use that, I would have to run the cable from the kitchen to the garage, lol.
@@PurpleSideBlack So there are no 120V/20A outlets in your garage, eh? Are there any 120V/15A outlets there? I don't have any idea, of course, where your breaker or fuse box is located, but might it be possible to do a fairly easy run of #12 wire from the electrical box to a convenient location in your garage? My calculations show you might get maybe 6.5 miles or range per hour of charging at 16A. Even at 5.5 or 6 miles of range per hour of charging beats 4 miles/hour of charging with a 15A circuit. Please note, however, that if you can make a fairly easy wire run of #12 wire for a 120V outlet, you should be able to do the same run using #8 or #6 wire and end up with a 240V/50A circuit instead. Tesla will draw 32A from it, but 240V @ 32A is MUCH better than 120V @ 16A. Four times the power (double the voltage and double the current = quadruple the power). Good luck!
FYI, in a split-phase 240V system like we have in the US, each individual phase runs at 120V relative to ground & neutral. Unless you somehow manage to touch both of the hot legs simultaneously, that 240V outlet isn't any more dangerous than a 120V outlet.
Our homes all have 240v 60 to 100 amps via below ground cable . This goes to a metre and then to a consumer board.every outlet is 13amps 3000watts basic outlet for the cooker is 45 amps, The most basic ev home charger is 16amp 7.7kw single phase But most go for 22kw 32 amp
No, you set the charge current yourself in the car to suit your charging capabilities. You can also set when it starts charging it’s all done in the car screen
Just ordered my Y! And, I had that same T shirt in the 70s. Old people in Teslas with a Pink Floyd Tshirt are beyond cool. ( I wish I still had that shirt, loved it ). Great video. Thanks!!!
Some people do not have 200 amp service. My town house only has 100 amp service. When talking about 240 Volts, it seems to me that the first thing one should determine is: What gauge of wire is caring those 240 volts and what amperage the circuit breaker is on that wire.
It depends on the appliance the 240V circuit is for. My dryer uses 22A @ 240VAC, so I use a 240V/30A breaker with #10 copper wires (10/3 plus ground). The run length is about 30 feet, which means that the loss due to heat dissipated in the resistance of the wire is about 1.5V, allowing the dryer to see a full 238.5V. If you're going to charge your car using a dryer line, adjust the car down to use 24A maximum so as not to overload the wiring/outlets/etc. This may well change depending on line length; do yourself a favor and pay a professional who knows what the hell he or she is doing. Better not to burn the house down and have it fall over in flames on your new Tesla just to save a few bucks!
I just got the wall connector. That way I don’t have to get he mobile out of the car and then pack it away every time we leave. And, I never want to be out and let the mobile at home. Good info, thank you.
Dave, great job. This Source Equipment video will help many EV enthusiasts. I’ve learned so much from installing 2 Nema 14-50 receptacles, one 3 years ago and one 3 weeks ago. For safety when using the mobile connector (UMC) leave it plugged in all the time or very rarely unplug it for a road trip. Many invest in a second UMC. You avoid possibility of electrical shock AND don’t wear out receptacle which can easily catch fire. If you have the $6 - 14-50 receptacle, it is only good for about a dozen insertions. The $50 version is good for hundreds. When using the UMC, get a holster for it and a hanger to neatly hold 18 ft cord. I also invested in a low cost 3D printed holster for charger handle to make sure it didn’t fall on the ground . If you decide to buy a 2nd UMC, try to find a gen1 because it will deliver 40A vs 32A, for 20% more charging speed.
@@evdave528 Yes, Wall Connector is good for safety and higher charge rate at 48 vs 40A, but it’s $500. I am waiting for new WC software that uses it’s WiFi to directly bill the user for electricity used. Apartments, condominiums, and HOA’s need this capability to support EV adoption.
They should have made the Tesla badge in the black V2 wall charger glow red or green or yellow too with that green vertical original light depends on what it's doing, would look way more futuristic.
Whatever you do please take some advice from a 7year EV owner. Don't go cheap on a wall charger and get the longest cable possible. These were my biggest mistakes, please learn from them. I love my tesla and home charging is the cats meow. For inexpensive accessories, I like Temu, it's less expensive. No I am not paid by anyone to say this, I'm just a fan.
@@berndgrabitz yes you have a good point. Euro 2 pin and the UK plug both go in super deep before contacting. But that's no excuse to drop household voltages to 120v. And even the 120v plug contacts while still exposed. Silly design
Actually 240 v in the US only has a 120 volt potential to ground. So unless you make contact with both "hot" blades at the same time you are getting the same shock as you'd get from 120 v
The voltage isn't as bad as the amperage on that circuit. I found this out while installing a dryer circuit. I accidentally turned it on (thinking it was on when it was off) and fortunately I checked to make sure before I touched it. The smart way to do this is with an ammeter. The quick and stupid way that I used was to bridge the contacts with my screwdriver. Bottom line, I welded the screwdriver across the contacts and put on quite the fireworks display! Learned my lesson on that one.
80 A is a hell of a better charging rate than 50. Sounds like the new charger is a piece of crap that charges slower than the 80 A one, is the 80 A one still available? Why would they do something so stupid?
Turning off the circuit breaker will prevent the circuit from arcing when you push the plug in against the internal contacts (though it shouldn't do this if there is yet no load on the device.) More importantly, it is also possible to reach the contacts with your fingertips after they become energized and before the plug is fully inserted. Notice on the side view as he inserts the plug how much of the prongs are still exposed while it is going in. If you become part of a 50 amp, 240 volt circuit, you will likely be thrown across the room and knocked unconscious, and that's the best possible outcome!
@@inediblenut thats not what he meant when we said dont pull it hot. Hes talking about not pulling the connector out of the car while its still charging. What you described is the concern about plugging in the Nema 14-50 connector into the wall port. I am also curious about what would happen if you accidentally tried to pull the connector out of the car without first hitting the "stop charging" button first, would it cause a spark?
@@s.n.6338 you should not be able to pull the plug out from the car while it's charging because it locks itself to the vehicle. You have to stop and wait (the indicator light changes color) until it's ready to be removed.
Pulling the NEMA 14-50 plug out of the wall jack with the car still charging will most certainly not result in anything other than minimal sparks and no damage to the car. It interrupts the power to the car charging circuitry unexpectedly, but that happens in the real world whenever there's a power outage; think storms and lightning strikes and branches falling across electrical lines and car running into and knocking over utility poles. Even squirrels playing around and running along the high-tension wires and run where the shouldn't, frying themselves and blowing the inline circuit breakers up on the utility pole. Utility workers refer to squirrels as "fuzzy-tailed rats" because they get so tire of re-setting the breaker that are constantly getting tripped by these animals. These events happen on a regular basis, and Tesla has designed their charging systems to simply twiddle their little electrical thumbs until the power comes back, and then they get back to the task at hand.... charging your car. As far as getting thrown across the room if you slip up and inadvertently touch one of the silver connectors as the male power plug is being inserted into the female power receptacle on the wall, the MOST you're likely to feel will be a modest little shock that will cause you to jerk your hand back rapidly. Flying across the room is highly unlikely, unless you're Superman or the Flying Nun. The rules of electricity are to wear dry rubber shoes if you're standing on concrete, put a dry rubber mat between you and the floor, keep the floor dry and keep one hand behind your back. Keep your fingers away from the metal prongs on the plug. They will NOT reach out to bite you, and you, smart little person that you are, will be careful to NOT REACH OUT and Touch Them as you're plugging the thing in! This is NOT particularly dangerous unless you're a knucklehead. DON'T BE THAT GUY! If you're walking barefoot on a basement floor, even if it appears to be dry, you DON'T mess with electricity. THAT is a good way to wake up DEAD the next morning!
I'd probably just stick to a wall outlet. Much cheaper and can get about 30 miles overnight. Then just use free charging locations to subsidize that if it's not enough for some days
That's why I haven't pulled the trigger on an electric car. It's to slow for the way of life were all use to. It most definitely needs to be much faster than what it is now!!
Turning off the power at the breaker was inconvenient for me..so I installed a fused double pole single throw disconnect switch next to the mobile wall charger..(initially for a Leaf and later for a Volt.)
I’m surprised the UMC hangs on its electrical cable/plug. And I’m surprised Tesla’s elegant wand isn’t the defecto standard vs the goofy CSS1 or CCS2 plug. I’ve seen too many TH-cam video’s showing how all that weight pulls down on the upper pins causing intermittent connectivity and have to be pulled up by hand to ensure a proper connection is made. No thanks.
The protocol is a bit more complicated than explained. But yes. The mobile charging unit, or the wall box, basically tell the car how much current it can draw during charging. In the wall box, there is a knob inside, set by the installer to tell the car how much current might be used by the car. The wall box itself will usually not disconnect the internal switch while the car is charging, nor the car will try to charge, while the switch is off. What will happen is the wall box unit and the car will first ensure all lines are continues, check the ground connection, and other things, then the wall box will send a signal that it is a real wall box, so car can check it and be sure it is not some make shift cable without safeties. Then the wall unit will will see that the car is connected, and the plug is fully in. The car will lock the connector (unless it is very cold in case of Tesla, because water could freeze and make impossible to disconnect) so it can be unplugged. The internal switch in the wall box will switch on, delivering voltage to the car. Then wall box unit will tell the car how much current it can draw. It will usually be set by the type of wall unit and its settings, to not overload the circuit and any input cables. The car will start ramping up the current and start charging, and observe the voltage drop on the lines, as well the temperature of the socket in the car. If at any point the car detect loss of contact with the wall box unit , the car will immediately stop charging, dropping current to 0, and isolating. This can happen for example if the power is out, or the cable is damaged, or possibly you yank the cable plug out. The design of the plug and socket is, so that during unplug the signal pins unplug first, so there are few milliseconds of window where the car can notice loss of signal and decide to stop charging without creating an arc between main power lines. Similarly if the wall charger notices something strange, like current imbalance, it will stop communication with the car (and car will stop charging as soon as possible), and even if car doesn't stop charging, will disconnect the internal switch within next 20 ms or so, even if the current is still flowing (it shouldn't). The wall box unit will also monitor a temperature of the plug to the car, and to the wall. Because sometimes they are poorly fitted, or dirty, oxidized, or do have poor springs, or a bit of water. The high resistance, would result in voltage drop, and heating up of the contact, that can be detected at the plug. In some other cars than Tesla, they use different plugs to the car, that often do have a leaver. The leaver do have a switch, that engages before actually physically unlocking the plug. So by the time you are in a position to unlock and unplug, the charger already noticed that you are doing this, and will stop communication with the car, which will stop charging immediately (miliseconds, if not less), and before you pull it out, the internal wall box unit switch would also be switched off in next few milliseconds, no matter what. There are some other weird things in the protocol and wall units, like monitoring the current and ensuring that the car is following set limit, as well in some cars / wall box units combos, car communicating to the wall box unit telling its state of charge, etc. Car can also communicate what voltage it is seeing, and if what car is seeing is unexpectedly low compared to what the wall box unit is saying it sends, it might indicate damaged cable, poor connection, bad torque on terminals, dirt, or too long cable, or cable with too small cross sectional area used. So they can cooperate as well with other similar units on the same site, to for example limit the current, give priorities to other cars, or you can set plans and stuff, like charge only to some level, charge at specific current / power levels you wish, which can depend on many factors like time of day, week, your schedules, etc. etc.
120V standard circuit is typically good for 1800 watts in older homes as older homes used 14 gauge wire. And newer homes now will use 12 gauge so it depends on the age of your home and wiring. Also for EV the Nema 15-50 while using a 50 amp breaker, should never draw more than 80% of the rating thus the typical EV charger in that outlet will be capped at 40 amps.
I went to a Charge Point charge at the Harley Davidson I wasn't able to us the EV charger because my EV adapter wouldn't fit. I have pictures if needed to show you
With the 240 plug, instead of plugging and unplugging it, can I leave it plugged into the mobile charger and hang that cord in my garage? So I'd be using it like a wall charger.
This was a terrific primer! I have the Gen 3 wall connector, NEMA 14-50 connector and pick up my Model Y on a few days. Looking forward to exploring and learning.
Thank you for the video. If wiring up a 240V 50A socket for continues car charging the connecting wire and circuit breakers can be wired for higher amperage i.e. #4 Romex typically used for 70A circuit with 70 Amp breakers. The recommended wire sizing for continues loads is 1.25 x the rated wire amperage which is sized for intermittent loads. In this case 50A x 1.25 is 62.5A with closest wire size being 4-awg at 70A. It maybe advisable to go with even large wire then #4 Romex for lower resistance, to reduce electrical losses due to heat if the distance from the breaker box to the socket is getting at all long i.e. over 50ft. You're paying for any electricity that dissipates making heat and the voltage drop across the wire would typically mean the charger is not going to charge as fast as it would if getting nearer to 240 volt. This heavy gauge wire is hard to work and expensive and it maybe you need to change the socket or its location slightly in the future. It's a good idea to leave 3ft of slack cable. Sometimes it can be curled back in the stud cavity. The 240V 50A socket is the highest wattage commonly available electrical socket (240 volts X 50 amps = 12,000 watts). Its permissible for the contacts of the socket to get very hot 90°C and this socket frequently has a ceramic housing. Its typical use is for electric stoves frequently with an electric oven. Surprisingly, electric clothes dryer, only go up to 30A with many different socket types. Sense 50A electric range sockets are normally hidden under the stove you're much more likely to see and be familiar with electric clothes dryer sockets. Gas clothes dryers are much faster and cheaper to run than home electric clothes dryers and I suspect electric clothes dryers are limited to just 30A to encourage the use of natural gas clothes dryers and take large electric loads off the electric grid. I would think people would want to keep or get the 80A V2 Tesla home charger even if Tesla doesn't currently allow pulling more than 50A. An 80A Vs. a 50A charger would be expected to be 60% faster, still very slow compared to Tesla supercharger. Tesla could have a change of mind, make a software change, and presto you can charge at 80A. Even if Tesla doesn't go over a 50A home charging other EV manufactures are likely to allow faster home charging rates, for example Porsche. If putting effort into wiring the your garage for EVs you might somewhat future proof it by just running a 100 Amp 240 supply circuit very common for sub electrical panels. I say somewhat, because by 2030 EV home chargers could be many times larger than in 2020 and upper class new homes might be getting 3-phase electrical power specifically for high speed charging of EVs.
At 1:33, his calculation of power from a 120V outlet is mistaken. What's shown is a 15A outlet. For continuous duty, such as charging an EV, this is limited to 80% or 12A. 12A X 120V is 14,400W--not 2,500 W.
@@evdave528 First, my calculation was in error--not sure how I multiplied 12 by 120 and got 14,400, but of course it should have been 1,440. In your case, you showed an outlet with two parallel blades. This is a NEMA 5-15 outlet rated at 15A, and this is the adapter that comes with a new Tesla. The adapter you use signals the charger what its rating is, and the charger limits charging current to 80% of that rating as required by the National Electric Code. I also suspect the charger clamps the voltage at 120V, even if you have higher voltage at your home. So if you use the adapter than comes with the car, you're only going to charge at 80% x 15 A = 12A, or 1,440W, regardless of the circuit capacity. You can install a NEMA 5-20 20A outlet, which has one of the two blades horizontal or T-shaped rather than vertical, and buy a NEMA 5-20 adapter from Tesla for $35; this will allow you to charge to 80% of 20A, or 16A, giving you about 1,920W. The point is that whatever adapter you're using, the Tesla internal charger limits you to 80% of the current rating of the adapter, again as required by the NEC. Hope this helps!
Thank you very much for your informative video. I’m in the process of installing my Tesla wall charger and you had great information as to what I should look for when selecting an electrician. Have a great day.
You can’t drive all day, only 300 miles for a Tesla. You need a minimum of 100amp mains supply and a dedicated 32amp minimum breaker, but you also need a surge protector for the system to protect against damage to you equipment if you have a fault. The pin plugs for the socket are useless.
What are you talking about? If you drive around town after charging and need on road power stop at a supercharger and 20-30 minutes later you drive off full. Charge overnight like your cellphone.
We are waiting on our model 3, and have a 50 amp Rv plug, so we can plug the adapter into the Rv 50 amp and charge the car. That’s great, as we know we’re most of the Rv parks are in Texas.
A 120outlet is more then enough i mean my car usually gets between 10-14hours of charge depending on the time i get home or what ever but i havent found my self stressing over my charge
Great Job Dave! I don't own one yet but you just made me a lot more comfortable with the concept & the process. One question I have , if you want to follow this vid with more on the topic,... What exactly is the definition of Supercharging?...Can you Supercharge at home & if so how & at what cost? What do you need to Supercharge while on the road? You may have covered this but I didn't hear the term "Supercharge" and did not want to assume. Thanks!
@@evdave528 Thanks for the replies, That's very encouraging. I'll have to do some research to find out how many of those charging stations exist and what the plan is to expand them
If your circuit panel in inconvenient, could you install an air conditioner disconnect box near your 240v outlet in order to shut off the current while installing the difficult plug?
surprised they didnt make a mobile connector to can handle a 40amp cont load. But now that I think of it most residence 14-50s are hooked up to a 40amp circuit/wire. So I can see why be design they dont want to increase that to 40
I would like a video on cost per mile to drive a Tesla compared with ICE vehicle looking at both changes in cost per kWh and changes in cost per gallon and miles per gallon
That was good Dave, thanks but as far as the difference between V 2 and V 3 home charging I would prefer the V2 as I like the beefier cord I don't wanna thinner cord. If I could install an actual supercharger at my house I would do it just for that beefy cord, It's a personal thing
Superb video. Very clear. Very concise. Complete absence of presenter gimmickry. And no stupid music playing when the presenter is speaking, so the only sound is the voice of the presenter and metallic clear click of the devices being connected - really. Thank you!
Amen on no annoying music
Attention off-grid folks: :Tesla advises to keep your car plugged in when not in use )ie when you get home from work). But like me, what if you do NOT have a 110 service, I live off-grid in a house I built myself, There are separate and redundant systems for each area: living room kitchen, bathroom etc. I bought my long range model 3 on June 2, 2021 in Portland OR and charged it 100% in Bend Oregon. (356 miles) I live 135 miles east in Christmas Valley and arrived with 219 miles. Over the course of the next three days I drove less than 8 miles a day but every morning I showed a loss of an additional 20 miles. Tesla explained that one can never shut the Tesla off as there are numerous component that require power. I got a bit nervous as I only had 150 miles of range left and the nearest Supercharger was in Klamath Falls Oregon 130 miles west. I made it with 12 miles of range remaining. So range is an elusive number. It depends on your use of the air conditioner and how often you make it go super fast.
Prior to purchasing my model 3 I asked all over the internet how I could use the sun to charge at home. (True, I could have gone a mile or so to a neighbor to charge overnight but elected not to.) So here is my solution: I bought 8 one hundred watt solar panels i wired in parallel to make 24 volts and then in series (four 24 volts) which cost about $800 with the cables and clamps. An MPPT charge controller accepting 12 or 24 volts which cost $279, two 12 volt deep cycle batteries costing $280 and a 10,000 watt modified sine wave inverter costing $229. Cables and fuses cost another $134, For a grand total of $1801. This inverter provides 220 volts and charges 28 miles per hour.Anyone living off grid with no access to 110 might find my solution will work for them. In short you may not need to visit a supercharger that often.
With the exception of “how to insert a 120V plug into a wall outlet”, I found this very informative. Thank you, sir.
Best description of charging I’ve seen and I’m thinking you may be a teacher. 👍
I just love listening to the gentle man talking
I've watched this video twice now and I chuckle every time it begins. First it is very informative and well made and I thank you for sharing it.
Now, back to my chuckling. When I was growing up in the 50's and 60's there was an old moonshiner in our county, when you visited him (and bought some of his moonshine) he would say "Thanks for stopping by.' The chuckle comes when I think of his grave marker, which says across the bottom, "Thanks for stopping by."
Thank you for being accurate not calling the mobile connector/wall connector a charger.
A chinese guy listened your video :) it is so easy to understand your voice and your information is clearly conveyed to me. It makes me to think about my professor at mcgill university. You did a good job, sir
When I got my solar, I included a NEMA 14-50 outlet. I used the mobile connector that came with my Model Y with a NEMA 14-50 adapter for about a week and wasn’t satisfied with the 27 miles an hour. I figured the most cost effective solution was to buy the Tesla mobile charger that had the dedicated NEMA 14-50 plug for about $600 with tax vs. $1,500 to have the V3 charger hard wired. I get a satisfactory 37 miles an hour and don’t have to plug and unplug the charger from the outlet.
I did not know that there is a dedicated 14-50 mobile charger. I just bought the 14-50 adapter for the charger that came with the car. Never had trouble getting to a 85% charge from 20% (or less) overnight. The adapter cost $30. I'm not going to spend $600. Also why do you have to plug and unplug the charger from the outlet?
Thuan Le you should keep a charger in your car while traveling. Just in case you don’t have access to a car charger.
Roy Miller check your breaker, you may only have a 40 amp breaker. I have a 50 amp breaker so I can get up to 37 miles per hour charge rate.
I assume your "solar" is a grid tied type and not stand alone. 50 amps pulling off a stand alone system would be way too much for most systems. We don't even like to use electric heaters which pull about 12 amps.
This is by far the most complete video about the different charging methods.
The statement “never pull it (out of the adapter) hot” was an eye opener. Never heard this before. Good to know.
My ex-gF would attest to this. She pulled out a dryer connector LIVE and the Spark jumping from the outlet to the cable plug in her hand was like a bolt of lightning! Of course, I would have turned Off the circuit breaker first, but she thought she knew better!
Depends which part. You definitively should not pull out the part going to the socket on the wall while the car is charging. The plug that do plug to the car, usually does lock. But even if it not locks (due to mechanical failure, or a really low temperature), when you pull it out, the car will detect that the signal pins are disconnected and the power is still flowing, but the charging unit is not communicating anymore. Within milisecond the car will stop charging. By the time you reach the point of disconnecting the pins that do carry current, there would be no current flowing anymore, preventing any arcing. Still, don't do it! Go to the car and stop charging. Or to the wall unit and tell it to tell the car to stop. Only when you see no current, or the proper color of the light in the car, unplug the plug.
@Jack Redford In the car you can terminate charging. On most charging units, there might also be a button to tell the car to stop charging. There might be more options. But never unplug the plug from the wall first. Always disconnect the plug in the car first. And same in reverse. First plug to the wall. Then plug the car. Read the manual of the car and the charging unit (EVSE - electric vehicle supply equipement) before using it.
@Jack Redford The DRYER was disconnected. The outlet was LIVE as was the Circuit breaker to the dryer outlet. We had not installed the 240 volt plug wires into the dryer... She was carrying them in her hand, not realizing the rear end of the wires were touching each other. So as she approached the outlet with the plug end the AC arc'ed at her from the outlet... Scaring the BeJesus out of her!
@Jack Redford I AGREE!
Most of these EV vids just serve to make us "Comfortably Numb" Their lips move but we just can’t hear what they’re saying. You are a treasure of info👍. Just got our model Y. So.. "Wish You Were Here".
Great you will love it
I've been studying joining the Model 3 group of owners. I have to admit that the aspect of managing the task of charging on a cross country trip is somewhat daunting. The added time to the trip for recharging stops is taking me some time to work out. Anyway, nice explanation and well delivered. Great job!
In my experience, a long day on a road trip covering 500 to 600 miles includes 3 or 4 charging stops, each about 20 minutes. You can do fewer longer charging sessions if desired. I usually charge while eating lunch, so that one doesn't waste any time. Overall slightly less convenient than gas stations, but not remotely difficult.
For everyday usage it's super convenient if you can plug in at home. Never need to stop for gas on your way to work. No waiting for the car to fill up. Start each day with a full tank, so to speak.
On a gas vehicle, I stop every couple of hours for pee or snack breaks. I see charging time as a matter of time management. Look for Superchargers along your route using your cars map program. These chargers take a few minutes to charge and those same breaks won't add any time to your road trip if you use them while you eat a meal or spend time in the bathroom. If you plan to stay overnight in a hotel, many hotels offer Charging stations to charge while you sleep. Someeven give the charging for free, although they may not all be Superchargers, the time spent charging would not affect your trips duration in overall time.
The onboard navigation calculates the stops and charging. If you have to eat and use the restroom then do it when it charges instead of fuel for 5 and park for 20 while you eat and use the restroom
Great job Dave..am i newbie and very non-technical ....seriously considering new Model Y....now i understand the basics of charging an electric car.
"Difficult it is not" - Yoda
Good point to plug the J1772 adaptor into the car 1st then the charging cable into the adaptor.. I would not have thought to do it in that sequence. It’s not obvious. It’s good you pointed that out.
You know, I didn't expect much out of this video, but it's REALLY useful for those of us who don't yet own Teslas (or an EV). Thanks so much for putting it out on the interwebs :)
One of the best EV charging video !
This was the most informative video I have seen on Tesla charging... No Jibber Jabber straight to the point with great explanation... Thank you this helped a lot.
EV Dave is GREAT!
Here is a guy who clearly knows what he is talking about and can communicate to the lay public.
Like many people I had a lot of questions about and also an unclear understanding about home charging. He was able to answer these in a very clear and concise fashion. Thanks to EV Dave I now know how to proceed. Many thanks Dave!!
A great tutorial. The official term for those "boxes" you plug into your car is Electric Vehicle Service Equipment aka EVSE. And FWIW I NEVER touch the plug on my Clipper Creek HCS-50P with a NEMA 14-50 plug until I switch off that breaker.
I'm curious. Why switch off the breaker. Is it not GFCI?
There's nothing wrong with turning off your breaker, of course, but you will - over time - wear it out faster. Probably not an issue in real life, but turning it off before plugging in the NEMA 14-50 plug really is unnecessary. Save yourself the time and bother; I promise you this will NOT be an issue for you. Really.
@@bobham3471 good info, and to be honest since we bought our Tesla Model Y I’m using the J1772 adapter they provide and it charges my Tesla at 9 kW or 35 mph so that’s the only thing I need to touch charging our Volt and Tesla. I thought I’d have to share that plug between the CC and Tesla EVSE.
We bought a VW ID.4 a little over a year ago use a 240V NEMA 14-50 outlet to provide power to our Electrify America EVSE in the garage. That charges our ID.4 and recently has taken on additional duties keeping our 2022 Model 3 charged up. The included J1772 to NACS connector for Tesla came in handy. We charge 95% at home and it works well for us. Great video...
By code, a 14-50 outlet must be connected to a 50 amp breaker. Of course, when I installed the outlet in my second house I could only fit in a 30 amp breaker so I do have to limit it down below the default 40 amps ( I have an older USMC before they nerfed it ). I did also lower it at my old house though because 40 amps got the cable pretty warm.
Phil, be careful here. The nec article 625. Car power transfer, calls for you to rate your car charger as a continuous load and the circuit rated at 125% of the load served. So, a 50 amp breaker and wire can only run a 40 amp charger and so on. Remember that it is the maximum charger rating us where you start. So, if you charger max is 30 amps (no matter the setting you select.....maximum) you need a 40 amp circuit for the 37.5 amp rating.
Good luck.
@@keithharrington4595 My point was to distinguish between what is required by code, and what is safe and/or possible in my circumstance. I'm quite aware that code says I should not have wired it this way, but that was the best I could do and given that I limit the charging current the car actually pulls even lower than the breaker, it is perfectly safe. Even if I ran it at the full 30 amps the breaker allows, it would still be perfectly safe given the 50 amp rated wires.
The best explanation about tesla charging I have seen on youtube. Thanks
Great info... Planning to order my Model Y (first Tesla) and this info is valuable to me.
You will love it be sure to use a referral code/link. If you need one let me know
@@evdave528 ha ha! I've had my Model Y for 6 months now and I do love it! Thanks!
Good to know about the adaptors, thanks. 220 volts really made charging at home a non event. So much easier than going to a gas station. No way would I ever consider owning an ICE vehicle ever again. I save $1500 in fuel every year, which adds up, and electric performance is so much more pleasant and fun.
What a wonderful channel. I'm glad this was recommended to me from TH-cam.
Best Tesla charging video I’ve seen on TH-cam! Great job! Getting our Model 3 in 2-3 months,
You will love it, use a referral code. You will love it
0:34 *talk like Yoda he does*
Nice video, but I disagree on one point. Having the wall charger is great but your example does not make sense to me. If I need a quick charge that's a supercharger. Find it odd when I would need a quick charge at home. My home charging is always overnight. I rarely have less than 50% battery and if I forget to charge I can still drive the next day, but If somehow I need to top up really quick 48 vs 32 is faster but still not fast. The price difference is so big, I could not justify it, but now if I get a second tesla then I see a benefit. Save yourself some cash and skip the wall charger in 99% you won't tell the difference but your bank account will.
I subscribed in 12 seconds because of the Floyd shirt.
You got me when talking about charging a Tesla but then the Pink Floyd t-shirt was icing on the cake! I have the original “Dark Side of the Moon” album in 33 and it still sounds phenomenal!!
Ok I thought you were talking about George Floyd.
@@kingstonzincfence George who???
Clear, concise video. I finally understand charging at home!
I was doing research all day to put together a full cost plan for when I buy a car. Project for the day was charging. You helped answer my final charging questions. Thank you!
Perfect, what every Tesla owner and future Tesla owner needs to know.
I didn’t realize the v3 wall connector did the sharing protocol via WiFi. That’s great!
I believe it is mostly to communicate between multiple wall connectors, i.e. if they are on a shared circuit, or on separate circuits, but there is a combined limit on the building supply.
I watched 15 videos, finally found the best explanation 👍👍👍
If you have any questions let me know I’m available on Twitter at @evdave3
Thank you
I really like the way he explained everything you need to know 😊👍 like it 😊😁 thanks again
I had no idea the Wall mounted connectors did power sharing! This video was an excellent explanation.
Nice video :). A friendly correction regarding the 120VAC/15A circuit. At 80%, one can expect to be provided with 120VAC/12A which works out to 1440W (1.44kW). In your video, it stated 2500W which is incorrect. Possibly a typo as one could say 1500W at near 80%.
Liked and Subscribed!
also, 240v x 50 amps = 12,000 watts.
The standard in new houses these days for 120 volt circuits is 20 amps, so you can set the charge rate to 16 amps provided that it is a dedicated circuit.
I think you MIGHT be able to do that if you can get the appropriate connector from Tesla, and maybe you can, cuz I don't know! What I do know is that the 120V connector supplied with the Tesla charger cable is a 15A connector and they're not going to try to pump 16A through it, cuz that puts an unacceptable over-stress on the connector and the wiring connecting to it. The outlets you're talking about CAN provide 20A IF your 120V/20A plug has a horizontal "hot" connector; the 15A connector does not. Both types will fit into a 20A female outlet, but the 120V male plug supplied by Tesla does NOT have a horizontal "hot" pin, and is therefor expected by Tesla to supply the system with 15A, not 20A. That means that with that connector, Tesla assumes only 15A are available for use, even though the female wall connector COULD supply 20A if Tesla was willing to accept it. With the 15A adapter, Tesla will accept only 15A, not 20A. And then they turn it down further to 80% of that, or 12A. If they thought you wanted to plug into the same outlet with a 120V/20A plug, they'd have provided it and the Tesla box would have taken that into account and set up the Tesla charging circuit accordingly. However, I do not know whether or not they sell a 120V/20A plug-in adapter, but I'm going to try to find out today, as I think that could be useful under some circumstances far away from home.
@@bobham3471 Tesla does sell the 20A /120V adapter with the horizontal prong.
If I was to use that, I would have to run the cable from the kitchen to the garage, lol.
@@PurpleSideBlack So there are no 120V/20A outlets in your garage, eh? Are there any 120V/15A outlets there? I don't have any idea, of course, where your breaker or fuse box is located, but might it be possible to do a fairly easy run of #12 wire from the electrical box to a convenient location in your garage? My calculations show you might get maybe 6.5 miles or range per hour of charging at 16A. Even at 5.5 or 6 miles of range per hour of charging beats 4 miles/hour of charging with a 15A circuit. Please note, however, that if you can make a fairly easy wire run of #12 wire for a 120V outlet, you should be able to do the same run using #8 or #6 wire and end up with a 240V/50A circuit instead. Tesla will draw 32A from it, but 240V @ 32A is MUCH better than 120V @ 16A. Four times the power (double the voltage and double the current = quadruple the power). Good luck!
Thank you for this breakdown, i am feeling more confident in purchasing an EV vehicle.
🙏 for the How to charge a Tesla seminar.
This is clearly explained and shows you how to plug in the car using the various wall chargers.
This was extremely thorough! Great work Dave.
FYI, in a split-phase 240V system like we have in the US, each individual phase runs at 120V relative to ground & neutral. Unless you somehow manage to touch both of the hot legs simultaneously, that 240V outlet isn't any more dangerous than a 120V outlet.
You did an amazing job Dave!
Our homes all have 240v 60 to 100 amps via below ground cable . This goes to a metre and then to a consumer board.every outlet is 13amps 3000watts
basic outlet for the cooker is 45 amps,
The most basic ev home charger is 16amp 7.7kw single phase
But most go for 22kw 32 amp
No, you set the charge current yourself in the car to suit your charging capabilities. You can also set when it starts charging it’s all done in the car screen
I charge my car while I'm at work. Woohoo!
Just ordered my Y! And, I had that same T shirt in the 70s. Old people in Teslas with a Pink Floyd Tshirt are beyond cool. ( I wish I still had that shirt, loved it ). Great video. Thanks!!!
Congrats on your car you will love it
Thanks, Dave. Good info for all.
Some people do not have 200 amp service. My town house only has 100 amp service. When talking about 240 Volts, it seems to me that the first thing one should determine is: What gauge of wire is caring those 240 volts and what amperage the circuit breaker is on that wire.
It depends on the appliance the 240V circuit is for. My dryer uses 22A @ 240VAC, so I use a 240V/30A breaker with #10 copper wires (10/3 plus ground). The run length is about 30 feet, which means that the loss due to heat dissipated in the resistance of the wire is about 1.5V, allowing the dryer to see a full 238.5V. If you're going to charge your car using a dryer line, adjust the car down to use 24A maximum so as not to overload the wiring/outlets/etc. This may well change depending on line length; do yourself a favor and pay a professional who knows what the hell he or she is doing. Better not to burn the house down and have it fall over in flames on your new Tesla just to save a few bucks!
Really-really the best video about tesla chargers! Thanks a lot
Agree
I just got the wall connector. That way I don’t have to get he mobile out of the car and then pack it away every time we leave. And, I never want to be out and let the mobile at home. Good info, thank you.
Exactly!!
This was the best explanation video I’ve seen.
Thanks!
Dave, great job.
This Source Equipment video will help many EV enthusiasts. I’ve learned so much from installing 2 Nema 14-50 receptacles, one 3 years ago and one 3 weeks ago. For safety when using the mobile connector (UMC) leave it plugged in all the time or very rarely unplug it for a road trip. Many invest in a second UMC. You avoid possibility of electrical shock AND don’t wear out receptacle which can easily catch fire. If you have the $6 - 14-50 receptacle, it is only good for about a dozen insertions. The $50 version is good for hundreds.
When using the UMC, get a holster for it and a hanger to neatly hold 18 ft cord. I also invested in a low cost 3D printed holster for charger handle to make sure it didn’t fall on the ground .
If you decide to buy a 2nd UMC, try to find a gen1 because it will deliver 40A vs 32A, for 20% more charging speed.
Better yet invest in a Tesla Wall Connector it’s safer
@@evdave528 Yes, Wall Connector is good for safety and higher charge rate at 48 vs 40A, but it’s $500. I am waiting for new WC software that uses it’s WiFi to directly bill the user for electricity used. Apartments, condominiums, and HOA’s need this capability to support EV adoption.
Thank you for taking time and explaining in detail.
Thank you for the video! I played at 1.5x speed which was perfect for me.
i loved the video but you talk too slow. nice compliment
Hey Dave!
Nice video sir.
You and I met at the Cybertruck event. We both stood in awe as it rolled on stage! Hope you are enjoying your Y.
Ray, Yes Sir I remember, hope your good. Drop me an email at evdaveshow@ Gmail.com
Best video about charging tesla!
Unfortunately, for those of us who live in apartments, we need a charging station.
It’s ok, charge at work it at a supercharger a couple if times per week
They should have made the Tesla badge in the black V2 wall charger glow red or green or yellow too with that green vertical original light depends on what it's doing, would look way more futuristic.
Good job thanks for sharing! 👍
Whatever you do please take some advice from a 7year EV owner. Don't go cheap on a wall charger and get the longest cable possible. These were my biggest mistakes, please learn from them. I love my tesla and home charging is the cats meow. For inexpensive accessories, I like Temu, it's less expensive. No I am not paid by anyone to say this, I'm just a fan.
Oh 240v isn't that scary ask the rest of the electrified world.
Have you seen the live contact you are able to touch, while the plug is been inserted ... ?
@@berndgrabitz yes you have a good point. Euro 2 pin and the UK plug both go in super deep before contacting. But that's no excuse to drop household voltages to 120v. And even the 120v plug contacts while still exposed. Silly design
Actually 240 v in the US only has a 120 volt potential to ground. So unless you make contact with both "hot" blades at the same time you are getting the same shock as you'd get from 120 v
@@joecummings1260 True ...
The voltage isn't as bad as the amperage on that circuit. I found this out while installing a dryer circuit. I accidentally turned it on (thinking it was on when it was off) and fortunately I checked to make sure before I touched it. The smart way to do this is with an ammeter. The quick and stupid way that I used was to bridge the contacts with my screwdriver. Bottom line, I welded the screwdriver across the contacts and put on quite the fireworks display! Learned my lesson on that one.
The Tesla 14-30 (dryer plug) adapter automatically lowers the amperage to 24 volts. No need to lower in the car manually.
Amps?
Thank you for this Dave! Very helpful :)
The very best explanation of Tesla charging options that I have seen yet. So much clearer to me now. Thanks!
Love the details, thanks for sharing!
Definitely the best video I've seen on home charging options for Tesla. Very much appreciated.
Great charging primer EVDave! Thanks so much for showing the HPWC v3 and the thinner cable!
80 A is a hell of a better charging rate than 50. Sounds like the new charger is a piece of crap that charges slower than the 80 A one, is the 80 A one still available? Why would they do something so stupid?
th-cam.com/video/sskm7bOBMdc/w-d-xo.html
@@tsamuel6224 battery degradation.
Also you don't need 80a from any of the current models if you charge over night. Cybertruck will change this.
@@tukyunaaya1 o
Very detailed. Luckily we have 240v here in Australia for household.
Speed to 1.5 thank me later 👍
Also thanks for the captions on the adaptor names and spec
4:51 "Never pull it hot!" That sounds important. Please elaborate!
Turning off the circuit breaker will prevent the circuit from arcing when you push the plug in against the internal contacts (though it shouldn't do this if there is yet no load on the device.) More importantly, it is also possible to reach the contacts with your fingertips after they become energized and before the plug is fully inserted. Notice on the side view as he inserts the plug how much of the prongs are still exposed while it is going in. If you become part of a 50 amp, 240 volt circuit, you will likely be thrown across the room and knocked unconscious, and that's the best possible outcome!
@@inediblenut thats not what he meant when we said dont pull it hot. Hes talking about not pulling the connector out of the car while its still charging. What you described is the concern about plugging in the Nema 14-50 connector into the wall port. I am also curious about what would happen if you accidentally tried to pull the connector out of the car without first hitting the "stop charging" button first, would it cause a spark?
@@s.n.6338 you should not be able to pull the plug out from the car while it's charging because it locks itself to the vehicle. You have to stop and wait (the indicator light changes color) until it's ready to be removed.
Pulling the NEMA 14-50 plug out of the wall jack with the car still charging will most certainly not result in anything other than minimal sparks and no damage to the car. It interrupts the power to the car charging circuitry unexpectedly, but that happens in the real world whenever there's a power outage; think storms and lightning strikes and branches falling across electrical lines and car running into and knocking over utility poles. Even squirrels playing around and running along the high-tension wires and run where the shouldn't, frying themselves and blowing the inline circuit breakers up on the utility pole. Utility workers refer to squirrels as "fuzzy-tailed rats" because they get so tire of re-setting the breaker that are constantly getting tripped by these animals.
These events happen on a regular basis, and Tesla has designed their charging systems to simply twiddle their little electrical thumbs until the power comes back, and then they get back to the task at hand.... charging your car.
As far as getting thrown across the room if you slip up and inadvertently touch one of the silver connectors as the male power plug is being inserted into the female power receptacle on the wall, the MOST you're likely to feel will be a modest little shock that will cause you to jerk your hand back rapidly. Flying across the room is highly unlikely, unless you're Superman or the Flying Nun. The rules of electricity are to wear dry rubber shoes if you're standing on concrete, put a dry rubber mat between you and the floor, keep the floor dry and keep one hand behind your back. Keep your fingers away from the metal prongs on the plug. They will NOT reach out to bite you, and you, smart little person that you are, will be careful to NOT REACH OUT and Touch Them as you're plugging the thing in! This is NOT particularly dangerous unless you're a knucklehead. DON'T BE THAT GUY! If you're walking barefoot on a basement floor, even if it appears to be dry, you DON'T mess with electricity. THAT is a good way to wake up DEAD the next morning!
@@bobham3471, THANKS!
I'd probably just stick to a wall outlet. Much cheaper and can get about 30 miles overnight. Then just use free charging locations to subsidize that if it's not enough for some days
I think I’ll switch to electric when it can recharge as fast as petroleum cars can refuel.
That's why I haven't pulled the trigger on an electric car. It's to slow for the way of life were all use to. It most definitely needs to be much faster than what it is now!!
It’s a perfect 2nd car.
I just bought a model X using Sumcoin and this video helped me find the mobile charger kit. Thank you so much!
Where did you learn solid info on Sumcoin, I’m interested and have no current background on cryptocurrency
@@Swxnflu I created it several years ago
You can have the charger outside the house? Can you charge in the rain?
Yes.
Of course, you do get a bit wet standing around waiting for the charging to finish. ;-)
(only kidding!)
that's the same of the public supercharger, it should be fine.
@Tom Thumb yes, I installed one like for Dryer in my garage and it worked well on charging Tesla
installation of ev charger with separate rcd circuit zapi enderson evs are best for tesla
Turning off the power at the breaker was inconvenient for me..so I installed a fused double pole single throw disconnect switch next to the mobile wall charger..(initially for a Leaf and later for a Volt.)
I’m surprised the UMC hangs on its electrical cable/plug. And I’m surprised Tesla’s elegant wand isn’t the defecto standard vs the goofy CSS1 or CCS2 plug. I’ve seen too many TH-cam video’s showing how all that weight pulls down on the upper pins causing intermittent connectivity and have to be pulled up by hand to ensure a proper connection is made. No thanks.
The protocol is a bit more complicated than explained. But yes. The mobile charging unit, or the wall box, basically tell the car how much current it can draw during charging. In the wall box, there is a knob inside, set by the installer to tell the car how much current might be used by the car. The wall box itself will usually not disconnect the internal switch while the car is charging, nor the car will try to charge, while the switch is off. What will happen is the wall box unit and the car will first ensure all lines are continues, check the ground connection, and other things, then the wall box will send a signal that it is a real wall box, so car can check it and be sure it is not some make shift cable without safeties. Then the wall unit will will see that the car is connected, and the plug is fully in. The car will lock the connector (unless it is very cold in case of Tesla, because water could freeze and make impossible to disconnect) so it can be unplugged. The internal switch in the wall box will switch on, delivering voltage to the car. Then wall box unit will tell the car how much current it can draw. It will usually be set by the type of wall unit and its settings, to not overload the circuit and any input cables. The car will start ramping up the current and start charging, and observe the voltage drop on the lines, as well the temperature of the socket in the car. If at any point the car detect loss of contact with the wall box unit , the car will immediately stop charging, dropping current to 0, and isolating. This can happen for example if the power is out, or the cable is damaged, or possibly you yank the cable plug out. The design of the plug and socket is, so that during unplug the signal pins unplug first, so there are few milliseconds of window where the car can notice loss of signal and decide to stop charging without creating an arc between main power lines. Similarly if the wall charger notices something strange, like current imbalance, it will stop communication with the car (and car will stop charging as soon as possible), and even if car doesn't stop charging, will disconnect the internal switch within next 20 ms or so, even if the current is still flowing (it shouldn't). The wall box unit will also monitor a temperature of the plug to the car, and to the wall. Because sometimes they are poorly fitted, or dirty, oxidized, or do have poor springs, or a bit of water. The high resistance, would result in voltage drop, and heating up of the contact, that can be detected at the plug. In some other cars than Tesla, they use different plugs to the car, that often do have a leaver. The leaver do have a switch, that engages before actually physically unlocking the plug. So by the time you are in a position to unlock and unplug, the charger already noticed that you are doing this, and will stop communication with the car, which will stop charging immediately (miliseconds, if not less), and before you pull it out, the internal wall box unit switch would also be switched off in next few milliseconds, no matter what. There are some other weird things in the protocol and wall units, like monitoring the current and ensuring that the car is following set limit, as well in some cars / wall box units combos, car communicating to the wall box unit telling its state of charge, etc. Car can also communicate what voltage it is seeing, and if what car is seeing is unexpectedly low compared to what the wall box unit is saying it sends, it might indicate damaged cable, poor connection, bad torque on terminals, dirt, or too long cable, or cable with too small cross sectional area used. So they can cooperate as well with other similar units on the same site, to for example limit the current, give priorities to other cars, or you can set plans and stuff, like charge only to some level, charge at specific current / power levels you wish, which can depend on many factors like time of day, week, your schedules, etc. etc.
120V standard circuit is typically good for 1800 watts in older homes as older homes used 14 gauge wire. And newer homes now will use 12 gauge so it depends on the age of your home and wiring. Also for EV the Nema 15-50 while using a 50 amp breaker, should never draw more than 80% of the rating thus the typical EV charger in that outlet will be capped at 40 amps.
I went to a Charge Point charge at the Harley Davidson I wasn't able to us the EV charger because my EV adapter wouldn't fit. I have pictures if needed to show you
If it was J1772 in the CHarge point you needed the adaptor in the mobile connector in the car so it can fit
What a great thorough review of multiple charging techniques. Thanks for posting 💪🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It was perfect.
With the 240 plug, instead of plugging and unplugging it, can I leave it plugged into the mobile charger and hang that cord in my garage? So I'd be using it like a wall charger.
This question has been asked several times and he hasn’t answered it. I wonder why as I would like to know.
That's what I've done for 2 years and haven't had a problem yet.
It’s ok but suggest you invest in aV3 Tesla wall connector
Thank you sir. I will definitely get the Tesla wall mount.
Excellent video on the different chargers of a Tesla.
This was a terrific primer! I have the Gen 3 wall connector, NEMA 14-50 connector and pick up my Model Y on a few days. Looking forward to exploring and learning.
You probably love it I do mine
@@evdave528 I sure do.
Thank you for the video. If wiring up a 240V 50A socket for continues car charging the connecting wire and circuit breakers can be wired for higher amperage i.e. #4 Romex typically used for 70A circuit with 70 Amp breakers. The recommended wire sizing for continues loads is 1.25 x the rated wire amperage which is sized for intermittent loads. In this case 50A x 1.25 is 62.5A with closest wire size being 4-awg at 70A. It maybe advisable to go with even large wire then #4 Romex for lower resistance, to reduce electrical losses due to heat if the distance from the breaker box to the socket is getting at all long i.e. over 50ft. You're paying for any electricity that dissipates making heat and the voltage drop across the wire would typically mean the charger is not going to charge as fast as it would if getting nearer to 240 volt. This heavy gauge wire is hard to work and expensive and it maybe you need to change the socket or its location slightly in the future. It's a good idea to leave 3ft of slack cable. Sometimes it can be curled back in the stud cavity.
The 240V 50A socket is the highest wattage commonly available electrical socket (240 volts X 50 amps = 12,000 watts). Its permissible for the contacts of the socket to get very hot 90°C and this socket frequently has a ceramic housing. Its typical use is for electric stoves frequently with an electric oven. Surprisingly, electric clothes dryer, only go up to 30A with many different socket types. Sense 50A electric range sockets are normally hidden under the stove you're much more likely to see and be familiar with electric clothes dryer sockets. Gas clothes dryers are much faster and cheaper to run than home electric clothes dryers and I suspect electric clothes dryers are limited to just 30A to encourage the use of natural gas clothes dryers and take large electric loads off the electric grid.
I would think people would want to keep or get the 80A V2 Tesla home charger even if Tesla doesn't currently allow pulling more than 50A. An 80A Vs. a 50A charger would be expected to be 60% faster, still very slow compared to Tesla supercharger. Tesla could have a change of mind, make a software change, and presto you can charge at 80A. Even if Tesla doesn't go over a 50A home charging other EV manufactures are likely to allow faster home charging rates, for example Porsche. If putting effort into wiring the your garage for EVs you might somewhat future proof it by just running a 100 Amp 240 supply circuit very common for sub electrical panels. I say somewhat, because by 2030 EV home chargers could be many times larger than in 2020 and upper class new homes might be getting 3-phase electrical power specifically for high speed charging of EVs.
At 1:33, his calculation of power from a 120V outlet is mistaken. What's shown is a 15A outlet. For continuous duty, such as charging an EV, this is limited to 80% or 12A. 12A X 120V is 14,400W--not 2,500 W.
20 amp circuit at 124vac
@@evdave528 First, my calculation was in error--not sure how I multiplied 12 by 120 and got 14,400, but of course it should have been 1,440.
In your case, you showed an outlet with two parallel blades. This is a NEMA 5-15 outlet rated at 15A, and this is the adapter that comes with a new Tesla. The adapter you use signals the charger what its rating is, and the charger limits charging current to 80% of that rating as required by the National Electric Code. I also suspect the charger clamps the voltage at 120V, even if you have higher voltage at your home.
So if you use the adapter than comes with the car, you're only going to charge at 80% x 15 A = 12A, or 1,440W, regardless of the circuit capacity.
You can install a NEMA 5-20 20A outlet, which has one of the two blades horizontal or T-shaped rather than vertical, and buy a NEMA 5-20 adapter from Tesla for $35; this will allow you to charge to 80% of 20A, or 16A, giving you about 1,920W.
The point is that whatever adapter you're using, the Tesla internal charger limits you to 80% of the current rating of the adapter, again as required by the NEC.
Hope this helps!
Thank you very much for your informative video. I’m in the process of installing my Tesla wall charger and you had great information as to what I should look for when selecting an electrician. Have a great day.
You can’t drive all day, only 300 miles for a Tesla. You need a minimum of 100amp mains supply and a dedicated 32amp minimum breaker, but you also need a surge protector for the system to protect against damage to you equipment if you have a fault.
The pin plugs for the socket are useless.
What are you talking about? If you drive around town after charging and need on road power stop at a supercharger and 20-30 minutes later you drive off full. Charge overnight like your cellphone.
We are waiting on our model 3, and have a 50 amp Rv plug, so we can plug the adapter into the Rv 50 amp and charge the car. That’s great, as we know we’re most of the Rv parks are in Texas.
A 120outlet is more then enough i mean my car usually gets between 10-14hours of charge depending on the time i get home or what ever but i havent found my self stressing over my charge
Relax, instead of hydrocarbons you use Electrons.
Great Job Dave! I don't own one yet but you just made me a lot more comfortable with the concept & the process. One question I have , if you want to follow this vid with more on the topic,... What exactly is the definition of Supercharging?...Can you Supercharge at home & if so how & at what cost? What do you need to Supercharge while on the road? You may have covered this but I didn't hear the term "Supercharge" and did not want to assume. Thanks!
Ben, a supercharger is a high power direct current charger between 120,000 to 250,000
Ben. Watts of power, charges the car very fast in a matter of minutes. Sorry for two reply
Charging in the road at between 150k to 250k watts of charge power, charges in minutes
@@evdave528 Thanks for the replies, That's very encouraging. I'll have to do some research to find out how many of those charging stations exist and what the plan is to expand them
If your circuit panel in inconvenient, could you install an air conditioner disconnect box near your 240v outlet in order to shut off the current while installing the difficult plug?
surprised they didnt make a mobile connector to can handle a 40amp cont load. But now that I think of it most residence 14-50s are hooked up to a 40amp circuit/wire. So I can see why be design they dont want to increase that to 40
I would like a video on cost per mile to drive a Tesla compared with ICE vehicle looking at both changes in cost per kWh and changes in cost per gallon and miles per gallon
That was good Dave, thanks but as far as the difference between V 2 and V 3 home charging I would prefer the V2 as I like the beefier cord I don't wanna thinner cord.
If I could install an actual supercharger at my house I would do it just for that beefy cord, It's a personal thing