For people who have some type of mechanic understanding, this video is great. This man doesn't waste time showing himself loosening nuts and bolts. He got straight to the point
Heads up for anyone attempting this. If your car has the ABS module in front of (closer to front bumper) than pictured here, you will only get about half the space to operate. Also with the ABS, you don't need to disconnect the giant trans wire harness, but you will need to take off the two points in the wire harness receiver and reverse it 180, this requires pan wiggling. I would buy spare clips or tie floss to them (they fly out and can go into the sump of the trans) and another trans pan (I slightly bent mine jacking, it's prob still fine but no reason to risk it).
Hello I switched out the solenoids and codes are gone but the car goes forward in reverse and neutral. It still does go forward in drive. The fluid is topped off and I checked at the transmission and can see the shift linkage moving the transmission though gears. When it's in reverse the reverse lights do come on. I've replaced the transmission filter aswell. Before doing the shift solenoids the car worked properly just had the code. And when I replaced solenoids I replaced all 3 even though only my first one was bad. Can anyone point me in the right direction of what to check, I'm assuming has to be a hydraulic issue but I've seen online this has happened to others after this procedure but no posted fixes or causes. Please help 🙏🏽
I will do it but from the buttom means I will remove all front tires and suspension to have better access since I will be replacing the manifold ..solenoids a and b ..pressure switch and harness
Does anyone know if the Powertorque solenoids work. I bought them at O'Reilly Auto Parts. What concerns me is that there is no black flow restrictor at the white end. Help..
We did everything by the book, but now the car is not shifting at all. It was shifting before the check engine icon. We got the same code for the selenoids. It was still shifting right before the repair. The car turns on, no check engine icon is shown, but we can't get it to work the gears. Any suggestions? Is there anything that needs to be reset or re-programmed because we tried some suggested things on the internet, and nothing has worked.
Your video ends saying you replaced them, and thats all. But what else did you do after this? Did the car just turned on and drove like nothing happened? I'm asking because I found someone else on a blog describing he had exact same situation like me after replacing selenoids, but no one gives him a straight answer. Just let me know what you did right after replacing them. Thanks.
@@DiamondYassDid you ever fix this? I had a similar issue at first but then all of a sudden it started working except now it also goes forward when I put it in reverse.
Thanks for the video, it was very helpful. I know this was a while back, but do you remember if you removed the neutral switch (shift linkage) completely or you just removed the harness?
Hello, I just bought a 2010 Cobalt yesterday that doesn't want to shift into first gear. I need to be rolling enough just to catch second gear then it slips for a second then goes to 3rd gear. It drives ok once I get to 4th . If I'm on a hill I'm pretty much Fd if people are behind me. The only code that came up is Power Train System "U0073 -00 control module communicator bus" but there is no engine light on the dash. Do you think this could be the problem hopefully? The guy I bought it from said it just started happening suddenly. Please lmk? Great video and Subbed!
I would change the transmission fluid first. If it keep doing it then you need a transmission shop to check it. I'm not a transmission mechanic. I only do what I know about transmission.
You start by saying that the shift solenoid is ON TOP of the transmission (at :30) but, it's actually inside the transmission case. So, it's not an external solenoid (Honda Odyssey, which I've done, are EXTERNAL, mounted to the case) and therefore you have to open the case. This is a pretty involved procedure. I bet the Chevy procedure is to drop the transmission.
Holy shit my dad had my car before me and thats what he said so basically I'm crackin the engine Trans marriage and what there's two of them do u know u seem to have a lot of knowledge on the subject is this something that has to be done bc at this point my car shifts hart from 1 2 and if know about b and m shift kits for 350 turbo chevy it says hard 1 2 shifts actually is good for the trans
Thanks for your insight in this video! So there's two solenoids in it - are they the same part number? I'm getting ready to do mine and I'm gathering supplies and want to be sure I get the right parts...
I'm also wondering on a price cuz I just got asked to do it for someone. Anyone ever paid for this? One guy below said he paid 1200 so I figure about a third of the price is fair. I really don't know though
Oh wait you meant how much fluid I drained out? I'm not sure it's been awhile. But if you have no leak, then put the same amount you drained out back in.
Dude I'm only half way thru watching ur video and I'm having a panic attack bc I have this problem and so far it looks like I'm yanking my motor out I'm litteraly scared to watch any more are u related to Stephen King 🤴lol
Easy but time consuming. Considering my money/Time ratio on whether to pay someone to do it on my daughter's car. How much did you charge the customer to do this job? Thanks
For people who have some type of mechanic understanding, this video is great. This man doesn't waste time showing himself loosening nuts and bolts. He got straight to the point
Hay mucha gente que nunca ha hecho mecánica Pero quiere comenzar a hacerlo entonces está bien que en ocasiones muestran todo el proceso
Heads up for anyone attempting this. If your car has the ABS module in front of (closer to front bumper) than pictured here, you will only get about half the space to operate. Also with the ABS, you don't need to disconnect the giant trans wire harness, but you will need to take off the two points in the wire harness receiver and reverse it 180, this requires pan wiggling. I would buy spare clips or tie floss to them (they fly out and can go into the sump of the trans) and another trans pan (I slightly bent mine jacking, it's prob still fine but no reason to risk it).
Good info thanks
@@spicythai2000 thanks for the video!
I don't smoking english speeks french
Hello I switched out the solenoids and codes are gone but the car goes forward in reverse and neutral. It still does go forward in drive. The fluid is topped off and I checked at the transmission and can see the shift linkage moving the transmission though gears. When it's in reverse the reverse lights do come on. I've replaced the transmission filter aswell. Before doing the shift solenoids the car worked properly just had the code. And when I replaced solenoids I replaced all 3 even though only my first one was bad. Can anyone point me in the right direction of what to check, I'm assuming has to be a hydraulic issue but I've seen online this has happened to others after this procedure but no posted fixes or causes. Please help 🙏🏽
Thanks, I'm getting ready to do this.
Wish it would of been external solenoid but it is what it is. Good info for sure
I will do it but from the buttom means I will remove all front tires and suspension to have better access since I will be replacing the manifold ..solenoids a and b ..pressure switch and harness
Does anyone know if the Powertorque solenoids work. I bought them at O'Reilly Auto Parts. What concerns me is that there is no black flow restrictor at the white end. Help..
Why did you remove engine mounts
Uneccessary
Was your transmission light on in the dash???
Great video. Chevy dealer just did this on my car $1200
Holy fuck 😲
I was going to ask how much would this cost, cuz someone just asked me too do this.
We did everything by the book, but now the car is not shifting at all. It was shifting before the check engine icon. We got the same code for the selenoids. It was still shifting right before the repair. The car turns on, no check engine icon is shown, but we can't get it to work the gears. Any suggestions? Is there anything that needs to be reset or re-programmed because we tried some suggested things on the internet, and nothing has worked.
Need to hook a good scanner up to the car and check the transmission.
Your video ends saying you replaced them, and thats all. But what else did you do after this? Did the car just turned on and drove like nothing happened? I'm asking because I found someone else on a blog describing he had exact same situation like me after replacing selenoids, but no one gives him a straight answer. Just let me know what you did right after replacing them. Thanks.
@juanyass after I finished, I went for a test drive, didn't have to do anything else.
@@DiamondYassDid you ever fix this? I had a similar issue at first but then all of a sudden it started working except now it also goes forward when I put it in reverse.
Thanks for the video, it was very helpful. I know this was a while back, but do you remember if you removed the neutral switch (shift linkage) completely or you just removed the harness?
I believe I removed the harness.
Hey Tom I have a 2007 Chevy Cobalt ls wont shift correctly 1st and 2nd work. 3-5 do not? Would you be ample to help please and thank you!
I'm not a transmission guy. You may need another transmission.
newports necessary for repair
Hello, I just bought a 2010 Cobalt yesterday that doesn't want to shift into first gear. I need to be rolling enough just to catch second gear then it slips for a second then goes to 3rd gear. It drives ok once I get to 4th . If I'm on a hill I'm pretty much Fd if people are behind me. The only code that came up is Power Train System "U0073 -00 control module communicator bus" but there is no engine light on the dash. Do you think this could be the problem hopefully? The guy I bought it from said it just started happening suddenly. Please lmk? Great video and Subbed!
I would change the transmission fluid first. If it keep doing it then you need a transmission shop to check it. I'm not a transmission mechanic. I only do what I know about transmission.
You mentioned a "shaft inside with a spring". Was that the thing that had a large long pin attached to it?
Been so long I can't recall. Sorry about that.
You start by saying that the shift solenoid is ON TOP of the transmission (at :30) but, it's actually inside the transmission case. So, it's not an external solenoid (Honda Odyssey, which I've done, are EXTERNAL, mounted to the case) and therefore you have to open the case. This is a pretty involved procedure. I bet the Chevy procedure is to drop the transmission.
Holy shit my dad had my car before me and thats what he said so basically I'm crackin the engine Trans marriage and what there's two of them do u know u seem to have a lot of knowledge on the subject is this something that has to be done bc at this point my car shifts hart from 1 2 and if know about b and m shift kits for 350 turbo chevy it says hard 1 2 shifts actually is good for the trans
@@rmichaels7130 I was just referencing th Cobalt transmission in this case.
@@xr500t I'm sick every thing for this car is a 100 dollar bill
Thanks for your insight in this video! So there's two solenoids in it - are they the same part number? I'm getting ready to do mine and I'm gathering supplies and want to be sure I get the right parts...
It should be two different part numbers.
Ebay sells a kit for 75 bucks with both solenoids, filter and gasket. You should do the filler service at the same time.
Did this fix the bucking issue
Yes replace the solenoid and now good.
Any idea what a shop would charge to do this on 2009 cobalt?
Any good transmission shop should be able to doit.
I suggest shop around.
I'm also wondering on a price cuz I just got asked to do it for someone. Anyone ever paid for this? One guy below said he paid 1200 so I figure about a third of the price is fair. I really don't know though
No transmission shop wants to do this stupid asf they all want me to replace the whole thing dumbest thing ever
what makes this happen that you need to have it done and how many miles did you have on that car at the time.
Can't remember been awhile.
@@spicythai2000 ok
Je un pikup nissan ka 24 qui a problème le problème d'éteindre quant le motéur est chaud
Did these faulty solinoids make yoyr car go into limp mode?
It wouldn't go over 30mph according to the customer.
Was the sensors both the same part or are they 2 different solenoids
2 different parts.
How much fluid did you lose and how long did this take you? Thanks
No fluid leak. Took me about 4hrs.
@@spicythai2000 awesome. Thanks, man.
Oh wait you meant how much fluid I drained out? I'm not sure it's been awhile. But if you have no leak, then put the same amount you drained out back in.
Dude I'm only half way thru watching ur video and I'm having a panic attack bc I have this problem and so far it looks like I'm yanking my motor out I'm litteraly scared to watch any more are u related to Stephen King 🤴lol
I didn't want to do the job but sometime we must face our fear. Lol
@@spicythai2000 lol ur right
Easy but time consuming. Considering my money/Time ratio on whether to pay someone to do it on my daughter's car. How much did you charge the customer to do this job? Thanks
You damn near had 2 take apart the whole car
Yeah. I did it because I was for someone I knew.
So basically just take the whole motor out and you be good to go 😂😂😂😂
I know right. Stupid design.