Hello I switched out the solenoids and codes are gone but the car goes forward in reverse and neutral. It still does go forward in drive. The fluid is topped off and I checked at the transmission and can see the shift linkage moving the transmission though gears. When it's in reverse the reverse lights do come on. I've replaced the transmission filter aswell. Before doing the shift solenoids the car worked properly just had the code. And when I replaced solenoids I replaced all 3 even though only my first one was bad. Can anyone point me in the right direction of what to check, I'm assuming has to be a hydraulic issue but I've seen online this has happened to others after this procedure but no posted fixes or causes. Please help 🙏🏽
@@nowak_nation4259 I was able to figure it out, during the procedure I knocked the manual valve linkage loose so I reattached it and because of that I was like well there's no way it's that. I opened everything up again and lo and behold it was disconnected. I guess putting the cover on I bumped it or something but I attached it again and then put everything together and it all worked.
Does anyone know if the Powertorque solenoids work. I bought them at O'Reilly Auto Parts. What concerns me is that there is no black flow restrictor at the white end. Help..
Hello, I just bought a 2010 Cobalt yesterday that doesn't want to shift into first gear. I need to be rolling enough just to catch second gear then it slips for a second then goes to 3rd gear. It drives ok once I get to 4th . If I'm on a hill I'm pretty much Fd if people are behind me. The only code that came up is Power Train System "U0073 -00 control module communicator bus" but there is no engine light on the dash. Do you think this could be the problem hopefully? The guy I bought it from said it just started happening suddenly. Please lmk? Great video and Subbed!
When you first mentioned the transmission having a filter prior to pointing out the solenoids. Your hand was above a long pin hooked to something black. Could that come apart/ is that crucial to not move when doing this?
Hello, I just bought a 2010 Cobalt yesterday that doesn't want to shift into first gear. I need to be rolling enough just to catch second gear then it slips for a second then goes to 3rd gear. It drives ok once I get to 4th . If I'm on a hill I'm pretty much Fd if people are behind me. The only code that came up is Power Train System "U0073 -00 control module communicator bus" but there is no engine light on the dash. Do you think this could be the problem hopefully? The guy I bought it from said it just started happening suddenly. Please lmk? Great video and Subbed!
Not being a smart ass but maybe no tranny fluid leaked because it was low to begin with. Or you jacked the engine and tilted it so fluid drained away from cover that the solenoids are under. I definitely like your way the best. Probably don't need jack stands under the frame just floor jack under the engine / tranny unit. In addition to removing the tranny mount and the pair of torque arresters you could loosen engine mount/support on the engine side. This loosens the constraint on the engine relative to the sub frame to increase any clearance that otherwise creates interference that would prevent removing the cover over the control section where the shift solenoids are located. Oh I forgot the jack stand needs to be placed under the integrated body frame. I forgot that the drivers side wheel has to be removed for access to bolts that secure cover.
Check the routing of the wire harness near the oil filter. It touches the block and wear insulation off and short to ground. The computers obd feature will issue codes that are false positive. Those jerky shift events are caused by computer changing shift related parameters in an attempt to mitigate damage but there are no real failure. The computer just responds as if there are. It's the harness shorting to ground tricking the obd
@@jimhenderson2308 pressure sensor was melted in the transmission, replaced all sensors and solenoids and it’s been smooth ever since (other than a VVTI solenoid that needed replacing but that’s nothing)
It will tell you with a code scanner if the solenoid is bad, and if you see with the scanner that it takes forever to shift before the gear is engaged, that is a bad solenoid
@@jonbanfill Thanks for replying! My engine light is not on. I did change the filter, gasket, and fluid. It now shifts a little better but still slips into 2nd, 3rd and 4th. No codes when AutoZone hooked it up.
Came here about your blend door cheat code video on the Chevy Equinox. THANK YOU!! SAVED ME SO MUCH TIME AND FRUSTRATION! NOW I HAVE HEAT!!
No problem. Stay warm out there.
Definitely one of the best guides😂 needs more appreciation fs
The Gordon Ramsay of auto instruction, I respect it.
i respect that!!!
What a job
It's very helpful I need to see a picture of a 2007 Chevy cobolt
Hello I switched out the solenoids and codes are gone but the car goes forward in reverse and neutral. It still does go forward in drive. The fluid is topped off and I checked at the transmission and can see the shift linkage moving the transmission though gears. When it's in reverse the reverse lights do come on. I've replaced the transmission filter aswell. Before doing the shift solenoids the car worked properly just had the code. And when I replaced solenoids I replaced all 3 even though only my first one was bad. Can anyone point me in the right direction of what to check, I'm assuming has to be a hydraulic issue but I've seen online this has happened to others after this procedure but no posted fixes or causes. Please help 🙏🏽
Still interested in help
I'm having the same issue I think it's the big one on the in side I'm replacing mine and my TCM
@@nowak_nation4259 I was able to figure it out, during the procedure I knocked the manual valve linkage loose so I reattached it and because of that I was like well there's no way it's that. I opened everything up again and lo and behold it was disconnected. I guess putting the cover on I bumped it or something but I attached it again and then put everything together and it all worked.
Thank you for no bullshit.
Does anyone know if the Powertorque solenoids work. I bought them at O'Reilly Auto Parts. What concerns me is that there is no black flow restrictor at the white end. Help..
Hello, I just bought a 2010 Cobalt yesterday that doesn't want to shift into first gear. I need to be rolling enough just to catch second gear then it slips for a second then goes to 3rd gear. It drives ok once I get to 4th . If I'm on a hill I'm pretty much Fd if people are behind me. The only code that came up is Power Train System "U0073 -00 control module communicator bus" but there is no engine light on the dash. Do you think this could be the problem hopefully? The guy I bought it from said it just started happening suddenly. Please lmk? Great video and Subbed!
Do you have to drain the transmission fluid
When you first mentioned the transmission having a filter prior to pointing out the solenoids. Your hand was above a long pin hooked to something black. Could that come apart/ is that crucial to not move when doing this?
I appreciate this. Doesn't the motor have to be jacked up to remove the solenoid cover? Which means removing drive axle and motor mounts?
Transmission mount motor mounts left and right not the front of the engine mount and the Driver side axle
Hello, I just bought a 2010 Cobalt yesterday that doesn't want to shift into first gear. I need to be rolling enough just to catch second gear then it slips for a second then goes to 3rd gear. It drives ok once I get to 4th . If I'm on a hill I'm pretty much Fd if people are behind me. The only code that came up is Power Train System "U0073 -00 control module communicator bus" but there is no engine light on the dash. Do you think this could be the problem hopefully? The guy I bought it from said it just started happening suddenly. Please lmk? Great video and Subbed!
Did you drain the tranny fluid
Below the torque converter there’s like empty slots with pins, are those extra pins? Yes … I lost one lol
Not being a smart ass but maybe no tranny fluid leaked because it was low to begin with. Or you jacked the engine and tilted it so fluid drained away from cover that the solenoids are under.
I definitely like your way the best. Probably don't need jack stands under the frame just floor jack under the engine / tranny unit. In addition to removing the tranny mount and the pair of torque arresters you could loosen engine mount/support on the engine side. This loosens the constraint on the engine relative to the sub frame to increase any clearance that otherwise creates interference that would prevent removing the cover over the control section where the shift solenoids are located.
Oh I forgot the jack stand needs to be placed under the integrated body frame. I forgot that the drivers side wheel has to be removed for access to bolts that secure cover.
are the solenoids the same? I am looking at rock auto. they have 3 or 4 different ones.
Would you happen to know if the neutral switch does move how do u get it back align.
Can you explain the part about when u said the park neutral switch has to be marked I'm stuck on that part what's the science to it
lined up or marked with a sharpy. remove it just dont spin it taking it off
What brand of solenoid is that can you pleas put brand and part numbers thank u
amazon 5l45. there off amazon. they had no brand....
How much does labor normally cost for this?
400 labor or diy is 45 for the parts
7.1 hours
My auto cobalt has codes P0700 and P0842 with hard shifting, random shifting and delayed shifting. Any thoughts on what could be my issue?
change the fluid to dex 6 and that dont fix it they it may need this fix.
Check the routing of the wire harness near the oil filter. It touches the block and wear insulation off and short to ground. The computers obd feature will issue codes that are false positive.
Those jerky shift events are caused by computer changing shift related parameters in an attempt to mitigate damage but there are no real failure. The computer just responds as if there are. It's the harness shorting to ground tricking the obd
@@jimhenderson2308 pressure sensor was melted in the transmission, replaced all sensors and solenoids and it’s been smooth ever since (other than a VVTI solenoid that needed replacing but that’s nothing)
How do you test if the problem is the solenoid or the transmission ?
It will tell you with a code scanner if the solenoid is bad, and if you see with the scanner that it takes forever to shift before the gear is engaged, that is a bad solenoid
@@jonbanfill Thanks for replying! My engine light is not on. I did change the filter, gasket, and fluid. It now shifts a little better but still slips into 2nd, 3rd and 4th. No codes when AutoZone hooked it up.
why didnt you at least show the clips half way out or how you got them back in?
Sorry about that. I used a magnet and a pair of pliers long needle nose pliers
Do faulty shift soloniods make he car go into limp mode?
yes!!!!
or a bad TCM
@@jonbanfill I hope it's the TCM ?
@@jonbanfill My car revs and shift in 2nd and 3rd gear late.
Roughly how long did this take you from start to finish?
Also does this apply to a 2007 Chevy cobalt?
4 hrs
8 beers