This method worked perfectly on my 2012 Accord 3.5 V6. Definitely not as accessible as it is on the Ridgeline, but it still took less than 30 minutes! Thanks a million for the suggestion!
Just wanted to say thanks. I just performed this operation on a 2016 Honda Odyssey. Have to say, was a bit nervous pulling the pin on the tensioner before installing, but the job went well as you described. Had to lay on back, as didn't quite have the visibility you had in the video, but all in all it went well. Thank you sir. I watched about 11 videos on this job and yours was the ONLY ONE that bypassed the need to remove belts and covers. Well done. 👍
At first I was skeptical so I took the top timing chain cover off to verify. Yup…super loose. I had issues placing the lower bolt in but after clockwise turning the crank it then slid into place. The top bolt with help from the 27mm socket went super easy for the final fix. It took about an hour to replace. After my happy dance with no more noise …… I decided to send you some ‘Thanks’ Money! You are a true blessing!
lol. thank you. a support on my page and some share would be great. watch some of my videos. i am willing to take some criticizm. im sure all you guys that made the repair are more smarter than me. some comments and maybe request on my other videos would help my grow and create more informative videos.
@@tylernelson7757 As long as it is the 3.5L engine. Take a look on the right side of the engine and if you see the tensioner…I would think yes it is possible.
Just did replaced the tensioner on our 2008 Odyssey, and it fixed the problem perfectly! Took about 20 minutes. A HUGE thanks for posting this! My wife's car no longer sounds like a WWII fighter plane 🤣
This worked very well. For anyone with a 2016 Accord V6 you'll have to take off the oil pressure switch (if you're comfortable with that) in order to get to the screws holding in the tensioner. After that follow this video and you'll be fine. Luckily for me the tensioner didn't snap back so it was a quick old out and new in.
SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME WHY I CANT GET THE BOLTS BACK IN! I have been trying for two days!!! I moved the camshaft very little like the video but the bolts will NOT go back in I don’t understand and no one wants to help me fix it! If the timing is off then so be it but I have to start with getting this part back in 2017 Honda accord exl v6 sedan I did remove the oil sensor
Thank so much. You just helped me to save hundreds of dollars 💵💵. I just did mine. 2 mechanics quoted me for new engine replacement for my Odyssey. You saved me thousands of dollars. After watching this , i went ahead to order the part which Costed me $80. Then spent 1hr tying to replace it. Now voallaa. So quite and smooth. I dont look like i drive a tractor 🚜🚜 on the road anymore. Thank you so much for this.
Wow, new engine replacement?? Did they tell you it was the valves clattering? I originally thought that was might be causing the noise on my 2009 Pilot, but I took off the tensioner and found it leaking oil, just like the video says. I haven't put on the new part yet, but I am very thankful for this video and hope the new tensioner goes on smoothly.
So I did this today on my 3rd Gen Acura TL. Things went to plan. Thanks so much for this video. You did a great job filming and explaining. Few extra tips: -jack the car as high as you can, especially on a sedan that sits lower. Extra visibility and reach is a must -use a good bright light to luminate the working area. My headlamp didn’t give me the best visibility. -turn your wheel to the right after for some more room -take off brake caliper for more room -use the 27mm socket + extension to keep the tensioner moving up or down. Just directly backwards. -don’t be fat or you’re gonna have a hard time!
@@huydang7191 really? So u lined up the bottom? That’s the hard one tbh with tension. Use the socket + extension method to give you more leverage. More light, more visibility. Get a look at where the bolt hole is and it should line up. Don’t get frustrated. The hard part is done.
hey im going to try this on an 06 acura RL, assuming that the engines are about the same, will the job go as smoothly as he did in the video or did you have to do anything different?
This video was 100% spot on from start to finish. I have been wrenching for years. Over 30 plus year and this was one very well done DIY video. Did the job in less than 40 minutes. Thank you!
Just did this on my wife’s odyssey van the same way, and your video was a TOTAL LIFE SAVER!!!! Thank you so much! Took me about 2 hours total. Great video. Little tighter on a van, but it still worked great!
I have a 2006 accord 3.0 that needed this done. I couldn’t find a good video to do it without removing a bunch of stuff I was not prepared for. Found your video and was concerned a bit that I’d blow my motor but I did it and it worked beautifully! Can’t thank you enough! Well explained videos like this on how to do things easier save so much time and money, can’t thank you enough!
Worked on my 2017 Accord touring! Like others said, on newer models the oil sensor needs to be removed but that’s easy enough. My tip for anyone else is to be sure to follow instructions exactly, and use a large socket like he does to push the new tensioner up to the top bolt hole The owner before me had the timing belt changed around 25k miles ago but either the new tensioner failed early on, or wasn’t replaced at the time of service. So this trick was super helpful thank you so much
Just finished,, 08 Accord,, the only few differences from the video are , at the beginning when you pull off two pieces of plastic that are ruining the visual, the accord 4 door anyways you can pull the plastic on the right but there is no plastic to give you a clear shot at the tension, ya gotta get low and look up, slightly,, taking it off went as this video shows , and the other difference I experienced was putting the new one back in, bottom first went in with controlled force, not a lot of force, I didn't have to turn the crank with the 19 mil, the top hole went in almost as easy , so, I must say, the video and just as importantly to me the comments gave me the confidence to do it up , So, ide say anyone afraid to do it like I was even tho I've don't alotta things under the hood, , just follow this video, it's dead on, Happy Holidays to you all,, and Thank you Mr mechanic 🧰 I can stop worrying I'm gonna destroy the car ,, 💯
Interesting. As a Honda tech seems risky but the fact that so many have commented saying it worked shows it does. Nice. The disclaimer for this video is that sometimes the tensioner goes bad around the interval that the belt needs to be replaced anyway. So make sure your belt is done at the correct interval so it doesnt break and cause you to need a valve/ head/ headgasket job, which is much mroe costly than a timing belt.
Amazing, this noise just started happening on my odyssey. I was afraid it was my timing belt, but I can check this first, then look for bigger problems. Thanks!
Thanks a million bro. FYI, it’s a little different on the 2012 and up models. I had to remove an oil sensor because it’s right in front of the lower bolt. Once I did that, it took 15 mins. You are awesome bro!
I followed your video and replaced the tbelt tensioner on my 2011 Honda Pilot. Everything worked awesome, took me about 2 hours (which is slow, i think). Thank you so much for going through the trouble to record your work. Helped me a TON.
I just want to really thank you for your information and knowledge. One of the most informative TH-cam videos I have ever seen. Worked on a 2009 Honda Odyssey, and everything went smooth. It was a fantastic shortcut as opposed to all the other videos ive seen! Again saved me the hassle from taking all those lil 10mm bolts from the timing belt cover...Again Thank You for sharing your knowledge.
Excellent video. Just did mine for my newly acquired 2006 Acura Mdx. It was intermittently making this rattling on cold starts, and would go away after 1 minute. When I pulled out the tensioner, there was oil leaking around the shaft, as shown in this video. I did not have to turn the crank in my case, or have to push upwards a whole lot to get the bolts back in, was able to line them up pretty well. She started nice and quiet! 11/10 for video. Thank you
I want to thank this amazing man. He saved me $1500 that's how much they told me to fix my tensioner. I did it on my 2017 Honda Pilot. On new body it's a bit different but same thing. U will have to remove Oil filter sensor totally to get to the lower bolt. Which I did and I installed new tensioner same way as he does. Car works great NO MORE NOISE!!!
Just Finished a 2008 Honda Odyssey with a 3.5L and 247K Miles on original tensioner. Went exactly as mentioned and instructed in the video. Needed to rotate my crank a bit to allow room for the bottom bolt hole to align up. BEST VIDEO on how to do this bar none!! Thank You for posting this as it saved me a whole lot of hours and from disassembling the whole left side of the engine. I did use a 30mm deep well socket since I did not have the 27mm and it worked just as good. Subscribed!
Today was a big relief for me and all because of your awesome video. Just done fixing my pilot following your video. You're awesome man and I would like to say Thank you very much. You are a life saver. God bless you!
Just want to share that i follow these steps and it worked really well. if you have challenge putting the first bolt, keep turning the crankshaft, there will be a point where you can align the bolt, it will not be too tight. after the first bolt, make sure you can feel the pressure back when you push it up for the 2nd bolts.
Just did this job exactly as you describe on my 2008 Pilot. Saved me much time and aggravation and about $600. Thank you for being so clear and not assuming too much.
This video (especially the audio clip of the noise) really saved me a LOT of money. After hearing the same noise from my engine, I was about to order an engine as I thought I had a rod bearing issue. Changed the belt/tensioner and viola, the noise was completely gone! Thank you so much for your video.
Thank you for the video of the noise, a way to double check and ensure it is in fact a tensioner. And a how to to replace the tensioner without dismantling 50 items and doing it the long way. You have saved hundreds maybe thousands of people thousands of dollars and hours of labour!
I'm so glad I found your video. I have a 2012 Ridgeline was hearing this noise for the last month or two. I heard it all- (it's your engine, it's your valves) I went ahead and got the whole timing belt kit including water pump. All that to say my truck sounds like a brand new. Thanks a million for this video 💯
Excellent video. I’m going to give this a try tomorrow on my 14 Odyssey (85k miles). Cold weather blew in and I confirmed what the noise was with your video. Thanks again.
This video is spot on. My brother-in-law and I did this on my V6 2011 Honda Accord. It was super loud before, but is now so quiet. Trying to get my hands to the tensioner was tight, but simple. Thanks for the video! If I can do it, anybody can.
Just finished my 2012 Odyssey. THE BEST video explaining this repair anywhere! I am not a very mechanically gifted person and I was able to follow along perfectly. Great job!
Mine had a sensor and a big bolt in the way of the tensioner bolts that I had to remove first, just be ready to plug it because oil will seep out. Thanks to you and all the comments regarding this job I really was afraid to skip timing like everyone else. I did change the serpentine belt and lubricated the pulleys as well , huge difference, sounds so quiet now, 2012 Honda Pilot 4WD.
Worked perfectly! 2016 Odyssey, ordered the Aisin one from Rock Auto. Hardest part was removing and reinstalling the body clips on the fender liner. Thanks again!
I just wanna add a little bit of icing to the cake so when I call Honda and specifically ask them, can they give me a price for the tensioner only being replaced for the timing belt? They explained to me that it’ll be $950 because it’s a 6 hour job and it requires you to remove the timing belt to replace it per Honda so let’s just say these dealerships or these repair shops are all about stealing your money and doing unnecessary things that don’t even need to be done. Thanks to your lovely video and my boyfriend doing the work. I saved a ton of money. Appreciate you yet again.
you really cant blame the dealer. they are not stealing your money. it just happen that i find a way to do it easier. but by the book, its a complete removal of timing belt to replace the tensioner. in real life, theres a short cut going to a store, but not all people, even google doesnt know that way. Only few people I taught this trick back at the dealer where I work at. again, this procedure is not certified by honda.
I’m glad I found you video before buying all the parts for the timing belt job. Now I’m going to just replace a tbelt tensioner. I have a 2015 Odyssey with 86k miles.
Please subscribe. Your mileage is pretty low but your timing belt is due by time. 7yrs or 105k miles. Which ever comes first. So i suggest you should still replace your timing belt.
Woot, Woot! - There, I fixed it! The old Ridgeline went from "Dude what's that noise?" to quiet like mouse. I had my doubts that I could do it as my cavern looks darker and more forbidding than on the video but wow, it wasn't too hard and now I can scratch that issue off the list. Gracias amigo! You Rock!
Im really glad that 98% watched my video successfullycompleted the job and happy about it. I guess in return, I would like you guys to post some questions or video request. Im running out of videos to post. hahaha.
Thanks for sharing this with such clear and straight forward directions, especially doing the video by yourself. I checked mine like u had suggested and changed mine, bang on Appreciate!!!
If the vehicle has 100K miles or has driven that many miles since last timing belt replacement, then it is more than just the tensioner that should be having maintenance. There are kits that have the water pump, tensioner and associated pulleys, as well as the timing belt. It is cheaper to do the entire maintenance instead of risking the belt, water pump, and/or pulleys going bad after just replacing the tensioner.
Number one tutorial video on the internet, lifesaving experience because of this video thank you very very much, and you also save me a whole lot of money😂
Really good trick. My tensioner is leaking but I already ordered timing belt kit. If I dont forget I will try that trick with all the covers out and old tensioner before replacing everything.
@Hermiie I did it the old-fashioned way, removed and replaced everything. I had limited amount of time to do the job and did not play around to see if his trick is working. :(
Worked out well for my 2007 Honda pilot. I did need a friend to help as it was really hard to turn crank shaft enough and maneuver/set the tensioner and line up the bottom bolt. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for this! Just did my 2016 odyssey in 25 minutes following your advice. Big time saver versus taking covers and belt off. Thanks again, it worked perfectly for me.
Well this could be a game changer, I have a 2008 Odyssey with 206k an a noisy tensioner. I saw someone remove the covers but this seems way more doable!! Thank you!
Hillside, how were you able to get the cam tensioner to pivot back into place? My new one won't budge (had to start the top bolt first, couldn't get the bottom to line up).
Update. Took the tensioner back out, tried the bottom bolt first again. Realized I had been pushing it TOO far in, that was why the lower bolt hole wasn't lining up. (Did advance the crank about 2" on the outside to loosen). Anyway, lined up the bottom and it went in. Then... the top one took a little pressure and lined up! THANKS MAN!! This whole procedure, while a pain (due to the mis-align), saved my probably $1500+ and a ton of PITA. Huge thanks ABCDE! - Dave.
I will add my thanks as well. This noise has been building for a while and several other videos just didn't seem to match up with our issue. It took me less than an hour for the whole repair on our 2016 odyssey. This saved so much money! Thanks so much for posting this video!
Awesome, very cool! I wasn't sure if this technicque would work on my Acura. The clearance was very tight, but your technique worked like a charm. Thanks for sharing the cool tricks, you're the man!
What year is your MDX? I've got a 2006 would it work on mine? It's got 103K miles and started making a knocking sound on cold start but goes away in a few minutes.
Great video and tip. Just completed this install. Planning on the full service (timing belt, water pump, etc. - shortly). I was a little worried about aligning the hydraulic on the tensioner plunger with the tensioner pulley, but you could 'feel' it working/connecting the correct way. Thanks for the tip and video - Great stuff!
Thanks for the video! I found that when I went to reinstall the tentioner that it needed to be at that angle facing up to get the lower bolt to line up when you put pressure on it. Couldn’t get it at first but i finally realized that and bam, job done 😎
i have done it plenty of times. made good money from the dealer already because of this trick. 4hrs customer pay, 2 hrs warranty. and get it done in 15minutes. lol.
I love this video man u save my life thinking was the motor have a honda accord 2017 touring v6 with the same noise and man listen God bless you brotha thanks so much for u content
Sir, I can see a possible problem. If the engine is on TDC number 1 cylinder and you rotate the crank clockwise a little two far it might cause the rear cam to slip over top due to valve spring pressure causing the rear cam gear to jump out of time realative to the front cam and crank. Last time I was doing a timing belt without the tensonier being install I turned the crank clock wise and the the front cam only moved about two teeth, but the rear cam jumped clock wise about 4 teeth and lost proper timing. Of course I just put a wrench on the rear cam gear and moved it back to it proper mark and reinstall the belt. I think that home mechanics might miss this possible cam movement and assume the cam timing was correct and start up the engine which brings about sad things as you know.
@@bpetnoi1472 you are absolutely correct. it will jump timing. But i believe you have your timing cover also removed. that timing cover will hold your belt in place. Turning the crank by hand and camshaft sprung/jump, if your timing belt cover is stilll installed, not missing a bolt, it will not jump timing. try it your self. because i tried it my self. Its always a good practice to check your timing after you did this job. after all, you can check the timing without anything removed other than popping off the access cover to check cam shaft timing mark.
Great video, thank you. I just did this in about 90 minutes. Very important to put the lower bolt in first. This is best way to do the job without taking off the lower timing belt housing and the crank shaft pulling which can be a real challenge. I too was very nervous pulling the pin out before installing....all went well.
A little concerned about getting the tensioner into the receiver and on the cam. I needed to turn the cam shaft more than I thought and about twice as much as shown in this video.
@@mikeduffy5670 yep first time ever doing this and can’t see what’s contacting it. Basically move the crank if the tensioner isn’t going in. Bolt bottom bolt, move crank again so top bolt can be lined up. In a nutshell?
@5:50 looked like the extension came down when you untied the bottom bolt: is that why it sprung out? At first glance the extension looked up and then down again. I’m assuming it was hard to work with two hands and cámara 🎥? I’m have the same issues with my 2012 odyssey was loud and I jacked up mellow down. I did feel small rattle by feel with signs of oil and grime around the edges of the tensioner. I will do exactly what you suggested. Hope 🤞🏽 I can lineup the bolts. I did share your video 👍🏽
Gracias por compartir, ya lo hice y me quedo muy bien ,en una Acura Mdx 2014, nada mas que tuve que quitar el sensor de aceite por que me estorbaba para quitar el tornillo de abajo.
@@lakay990 in some model where oil pressure switch is right on top of the bolt for tensioner then yes, you need to remove the pressure switch. Use 27mm or adjustable wrench
@abcdeinformation3048 Yes boss pinoy ako🤣🤣🤣bossing salamat ngayon ko lang nagawa yong pilot ko halos katatapos lang boss langyang pawis ko sa kaba kala ko d ko mapapasok yong bolt boss🤣🤣🤣pero napasok dn maraming maraming salamat nasave mo ako ng 500$😂 taga fresno lang ako sa pinas camiling tarlac,paano gawin natin sa page mo boss?🍻🍻🍻
Well i tried this and it worked 100% i have a 2016 acura mdx and the only thing diferent was i had to remove an oil sensor. I used the same 27 mm socket to remove that. Then used the same socket as leverage. The only thing that got me was i didnt rotate the crank enough so i strugled alil. But after i rotated it more it went right in. Sadly this wasnt my problem so il keep looking but this works 100%
@abcdeinformation3048 sounds like a slight knock while starting to accelerate. Will go away after out of first gear. Can be heard in the rear of the engine. Cannot be heard while in park it has to he in drive or reverse
@@llamasmario8747 yeah. Deffinitely its not the tensioner. Monitor the noise if it stops whenever you see ECO in your dash. If noise stops when eco show up, you probably need valve adjust. If i have one with bad rear engine mount also.
Took me no more then 5 minutes to change it out the way you did! Thank you for the video. Was skeptical but figured I couldn't fuck it up more then it was already. Great job
Good tip. My 06 Pilot started making that noise, about 10 minutes later it sounded like the engine was eating itself, the two bolts holding the tensioner in place broke off in their holes. Sucks.
It took me a lot longer on my 07 Honda Ridgeline. About 2 hours to get that first bolt lined back up, then easy. My tensioner was bad, but I still have lots of noise. I’m thinking a pulley bearing went out.😢
@@PhilFrederick-s5h sorry to hear that. do you feel vibration on the tensioner after you replace the tensioner? if no vibration, i suggest you remove your drive belt and start the car. your noise might be external.
I did the entire belt/pump, and made the mistake of using Autozone Duralast timing belt kit. The Duralast tensioner lasted 30k before giving up the ghost. Honda OEM only here.
I had a Honda Civic 2017, my mechanic advized me when I bought it to only use original parts as he had a lot of bad experience with hondas and third party parts.
im pretty sure my tensioner has gone out. i drive a 2007 honda pilot with just under 200k miles with the original tensioner still installed. im gonna give this a shot probably tomorrow. hoping its the same procedure
@@punx4life85 yep. She’s been very good to me. I do all the work on it myself. My alternator which was the original just went out last year. Original starter went out year before last. Tensioner was also the original. I’m very ocd with the maintenance. I’ll be replacing the original suspension in a few months once I have the last couple of parts. All my buddies say it’s crazy that my engine is so quiet for being so old. It should sound like a rattling mess but it sounds like it did when I bought it.
Oh…I did this on a 2008 Honda Ridgeline and $58.00 tensioner from Amazon. Timing belt last replace at 225000 mile and now has 270000 miles on the clock.
This is great but remember, it’s a good idea to do the belt and water pump as well and do it the “long way.” Replacing just tensioner on a worn belt (100k miles) is dangerous and could lead to bent valves when the belt kicks off.
This method worked perfectly on my 2012 Accord 3.5 V6. Definitely not as accessible as it is on the Ridgeline, but it still took less than 30 minutes! Thanks a million for the suggestion!
Just wanted to say thanks. I just performed this operation on a 2016 Honda Odyssey. Have to say, was a bit nervous pulling the pin on the tensioner before installing, but the job went well as you described. Had to lay on back, as didn't quite have the visibility you had in the video, but all in all it went well. Thank you sir. I watched about 11 videos on this job and yours was the ONLY ONE that bypassed the need to remove belts and covers. Well done. 👍
Thank you forthe lovely comment.
I will do my best in posting helpful videos. Please help me also by sharing my videos and channel.
4:42 looks like your finger got caught in the tensioner lol
What was the mileage on your car? I have 16 accord 60k with the same noise.
I have a 2019 honda pilot 75k. Miles started making h
This exact same noise 😢.
At first I was skeptical so I took the top timing chain cover off to verify. Yup…super loose. I had issues placing the lower bolt in but after clockwise turning the crank it then slid into place. The top bolt with help from the 27mm socket went super easy for the final fix. It took about an hour to replace. After my happy dance with no more noise …… I decided to send you some ‘Thanks’ Money! You are a true blessing!
lol. thank you. a support on my page and some share would be great. watch some of my videos. i am willing to take some criticizm. im sure all you guys that made the repair are more smarter than me. some comments and maybe request on my other videos would help my grow and create more informative videos.
Can this be done on a 2006 v6 accord? Thank you
@@tylernelson7757 yes
@@tylernelson7757 As long as it is the 3.5L engine. Take a look on the right side of the engine and if you see the tensioner…I would think yes it is possible.
@@erichackney73013.2 j series engine is compatible with this method as well. So Acura TL, RL, Etc.
Just did replaced the tensioner on our 2008 Odyssey, and it fixed the problem perfectly! Took about 20 minutes. A HUGE thanks for posting this! My wife's car no longer sounds like a WWII fighter plane 🤣
Cost?
@@josh9425 $80 maybe if going with the AISIN
God bless you man. Followed your instructions and got this done on my 2013 RDX. 35 min job. Noise is completely gone.
This worked very well. For anyone with a 2016 Accord V6 you'll have to take off the oil pressure switch (if you're comfortable with that) in order to get to the screws holding in the tensioner. After that follow this video and you'll be fine. Luckily for me the tensioner didn't snap back so it was a quick old out and new in.
SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME WHY I CANT GET THE BOLTS BACK IN! I have been trying for two days!!! I moved the camshaft very little like the video but the bolts will NOT go back in I don’t understand and no one wants to help me fix it! If the timing is off then so be it but I have to start with getting this part back in
2017 Honda accord exl v6 sedan I did remove the oil sensor
@@amandahurt5923 sorry can't help you. Your best bet is a mechanic
Thank so much. You just helped me to save hundreds of dollars 💵💵. I just did mine. 2 mechanics quoted me for new engine replacement for my Odyssey. You saved me thousands of dollars. After watching this , i went ahead to order the part which Costed me $80. Then spent 1hr tying to replace it. Now voallaa. So quite and smooth. I dont look like i drive a tractor 🚜🚜 on the road anymore. Thank you so much for this.
Thanks be to God. Have a blessed days.
Wow, new engine replacement?? Did they tell you it was the valves clattering? I originally thought that was might be causing the noise on my 2009 Pilot, but I took off the tensioner and found it leaking oil, just like the video says. I haven't put on the new part yet, but I am very thankful for this video and hope the new tensioner goes on smoothly.
So I did this today on my 3rd Gen Acura TL. Things went to plan. Thanks so much for this video. You did a great job filming and explaining.
Few extra tips:
-jack the car as high as you can, especially on a sedan that sits lower. Extra visibility and reach is a must
-use a good bright light to luminate the working area. My headlamp didn’t give me the best visibility.
-turn your wheel to the right after for some more room
-take off brake caliper for more room
-use the 27mm socket + extension to keep the tensioner moving up or down. Just directly backwards.
-don’t be fat or you’re gonna have a hard time!
Did you really need to take off the brake caliper ?
@@huydang7191 no you dont need to, but whatever space i could get i took. I used an impact gun so it was like 30 secs
I had a hard time lining up the top bolt . It wont go in. Also i dont have too m7xh tension..maybe my belt is loose
@pegleggreg3627
@@huydang7191 really? So u lined up the bottom? That’s the hard one tbh with tension. Use the socket + extension method to give you more leverage. More light, more visibility. Get a look at where the bolt hole is and it should line up.
Don’t get frustrated. The hard part is done.
hey im going to try this on an 06 acura RL, assuming that the engines are about the same, will the job go as smoothly as he did in the video or did you have to do anything different?
This video was 100% spot on from start to finish. I have been wrenching for years. Over 30 plus year and this was one very well done DIY video. Did the job in less than 40 minutes. Thank you!
Just did this on my wife’s odyssey van the same way, and your video was a TOTAL LIFE SAVER!!!! Thank you so much! Took me about 2 hours total. Great video. Little tighter on a van, but it still worked great!
I have a 2006 accord 3.0 that needed this done. I couldn’t find a good video to do it without removing a bunch of stuff I was not prepared for. Found your video and was concerned a bit that I’d blow my motor but I did it and it worked beautifully! Can’t thank you enough! Well explained videos like this on how to do things easier save so much time and money, can’t thank you enough!
I guess all i could ask is to share and subscribe? And follow my fb page?
Worked on my 2017 Accord touring!
Like others said, on newer models the oil sensor needs to be removed but that’s easy enough. My tip for anyone else is to be sure to follow instructions exactly, and use a large socket like he does to push the new tensioner up to the top bolt hole
The owner before me had the timing belt changed around 25k miles ago but either the new tensioner failed early on, or wasn’t replaced at the time of service.
So this trick was super helpful thank you so much
@@auzzman1 glad it worked out for you. please like and subscribe. hahaha.
Just finished,, 08 Accord,, the only few differences from the video are , at the beginning when you pull off two pieces of plastic that are ruining the visual, the accord 4 door anyways you can pull the plastic on the right but there is no plastic to give you a clear shot at the tension, ya gotta get low and look up, slightly,, taking it off went as this video shows , and the other difference I experienced was putting the new one back in, bottom first went in with controlled force, not a lot of force, I didn't have to turn the crank with the 19 mil, the top hole went in almost as easy , so, I must say, the video and just as importantly to me the comments gave me the confidence to do it up , So, ide say anyone afraid to do it like I was even tho I've don't alotta things under the hood, , just follow this video, it's dead on, Happy Holidays to you all,, and Thank you Mr mechanic 🧰 I can stop worrying I'm gonna destroy the car ,, 💯
Only thing i would ask is please subscribe and share the video and your stories in other social media platform.
Interesting. As a Honda tech seems risky but the fact that so many have commented saying it worked shows it does. Nice.
The disclaimer for this video is that sometimes the tensioner goes bad around the interval that the belt needs to be replaced anyway. So make sure your belt is done at the correct interval so it doesnt break and cause you to need a valve/ head/ headgasket job, which is much mroe costly than a timing belt.
@@Dominivacano have you done piston rings on those v6 with dtc p0303 due to oil fouled plugs? with this, you can now get it done in 4.5hrs
Amazing, this noise just started happening on my odyssey. I was afraid it was my timing belt, but I can check this first, then look for bigger problems. Thanks!
Thanks a million bro. FYI, it’s a little different on the 2012 and up models. I had to remove an oil sensor because it’s right in front of the lower bolt. Once I did that, it took 15 mins. You are awesome bro!
How did you remove the oil sensor, I can’t get it on my 2012
I followed your video and replaced the tbelt tensioner on my 2011 Honda Pilot. Everything worked awesome, took me about 2 hours (which is slow, i think). Thank you so much for going through the trouble to record your work. Helped me a TON.
Right? First time it'll take you 2 hours. Next time it'll only take 20 minutes....thats just the way it goes...right?
I just want to really thank you for your information and knowledge. One of the most informative TH-cam videos I have ever seen. Worked on a 2009 Honda Odyssey, and everything went smooth. It was a fantastic shortcut as opposed to all the other videos ive seen! Again saved me the hassle from taking all those lil 10mm bolts from the timing belt cover...Again Thank You for sharing your knowledge.
So you didn't have to remove any cover?
Excellent video. Just did mine for my newly acquired 2006 Acura Mdx. It was intermittently making this rattling on cold starts, and would go away after 1 minute.
When I pulled out the tensioner, there was oil leaking around the shaft, as shown in this video.
I did not have to turn the crank in my case, or have to push upwards a whole lot to get the bolts back in, was able to line them up pretty well.
She started nice and quiet!
11/10 for video. Thank you
Many thanks for posting this video, I fixed my wife's 12 Honda Pilot and didn't need to pay a technician big bucks.
Whats the part no? I have same pilot 2012
I want to thank this amazing man. He saved me $1500 that's how much they told me to fix my tensioner.
I did it on my 2017 Honda Pilot.
On new body it's a bit different but same thing.
U will have to remove Oil filter sensor totally to get to the lower bolt.
Which I did and I installed new tensioner same way as he does.
Car works great NO MORE NOISE!!!
Just Finished a 2008 Honda Odyssey with a 3.5L and 247K Miles on original tensioner. Went exactly as mentioned and instructed in the video. Needed to rotate my crank a bit to allow room for the bottom bolt hole to align up. BEST VIDEO on how to do this bar none!! Thank You for posting this as it saved me a whole lot of hours and from disassembling the whole left side of the engine. I did use a 30mm deep well socket since I did not have the 27mm and it worked just as good. Subscribed!
Today was a big relief for me and all because of your awesome video. Just done fixing my pilot following your video. You're awesome man and I would like to say Thank you very much. You are a life saver. God bless you!
Just want to share that i follow these steps and it worked really well. if you have challenge putting the first bolt, keep turning the crankshaft, there will be a point where you can align the bolt, it will not be too tight. after the first bolt, make sure you can feel the pressure back when you push it up for the 2nd bolts.
Just did this job exactly as you describe on my 2008 Pilot. Saved me much time and aggravation and about $600. Thank you for being so clear and not assuming too much.
Thank you for positive response. Negative response is also appreciated. That way I could learn more.
What cost $600
I’m sorry for my above comment. You were saying it saved you $600?
The estimate from the shop was over $600, I did it for 50
@@bobgins1497 yes I got $800 estimate think I will try to do it myself...wow thanks
This video (especially the audio clip of the noise) really saved me a LOT of money. After hearing the same noise from my engine, I was about to order an engine as I thought I had a rod bearing issue. Changed the belt/tensioner and viola, the noise was completely gone! Thank you so much for your video.
Please share the video to save others also. I also have facebook page. Abcde information. Please follow also to help save other
If that noise was coming from inside the engine it wouldn't be running long.
Thank you for the video of the noise, a way to double check and ensure it is in fact a tensioner. And a how to to replace the tensioner without dismantling 50 items and doing it the long way. You have saved hundreds maybe thousands of people thousands of dollars and hours of labour!
Like and subscribe. Lol. Thank you.
I'm so glad I found your video. I have a 2012 Ridgeline was hearing this noise for the last month or two. I heard it all- (it's your engine, it's your valves) I went ahead and got the whole timing belt kit including water pump. All that to say my truck sounds like a brand new. Thanks a million for this video 💯
Excellent video. I’m going to give this a try tomorrow on my 14 Odyssey (85k miles). Cold weather blew in and I confirmed what the noise was with your video. Thanks again.
Took a little over an hour to replace and now it’s purring like a kitten.
Thanks again!
This video is spot on. My brother-in-law and I did this on my V6 2011 Honda Accord. It was super loud before, but is now so quiet. Trying to get my hands to the tensioner was tight, but simple. Thanks for the video! If I can do it, anybody can.
This is the video that saved me hundreds of dollars, and a whole lot of time, by simply having some common sense. Thanks 👍, you are a lifesaver....
Thank you so much for showing this shortcut to remove and replace the tensioner. You saved me a lot of time, and my customer a lot of money.
You should still have done the full TB job
Just fixed my aunts 2011 Honda pilot with this video and he is 100% correct about what he’s talking about🤝👍
Just finished my 2012 Odyssey. THE BEST video explaining this repair anywhere! I am not a very mechanically gifted person and I was able to follow along perfectly. Great job!
Mine had a sensor and a big bolt in the way of the tensioner bolts that I had to remove first, just be ready to plug it because oil will seep out. Thanks to you and all the comments regarding this job I really was afraid to skip timing like everyone else. I did change the serpentine belt and lubricated the pulleys as well , huge difference, sounds so quiet now, 2012 Honda Pilot 4WD.
Worked perfectly! 2016 Odyssey, ordered the Aisin one from Rock Auto. Hardest part was removing and reinstalling the body clips on the fender liner. Thanks again!
@@mikeullmer3225 hahaha. i feel you brother.
I just wanna add a little bit of icing to the cake so when I call Honda and specifically ask them, can they give me a price for the tensioner only being replaced for the timing belt? They explained to me that it’ll be $950 because it’s a 6 hour job and it requires you to remove the timing belt to replace it per Honda so let’s just say these dealerships or these repair shops are all about stealing your money and doing unnecessary things that don’t even need to be done. Thanks to your lovely video and my boyfriend doing the work. I saved a ton of money. Appreciate you yet again.
you really cant blame the dealer. they are not stealing your money. it just happen that i find a way to do it easier. but by the book, its a complete removal of timing belt to replace the tensioner. in real life, theres a short cut going to a store, but not all people, even google doesnt know that way. Only few people I taught this trick back at the dealer where I work at. again, this procedure is not certified by honda.
Genius! Only a person who really understands these motors would know to do this.
Thanks. Please share and subscribe. Thats the only thing i wanted back from you guys.
I’m glad I found you video before buying all the parts for the timing belt job. Now I’m going to just replace a tbelt tensioner. I have a 2015 Odyssey with 86k miles.
Please subscribe. Your mileage is pretty low but your timing belt is due by time. 7yrs or 105k miles. Which ever comes first. So i suggest you should still replace your timing belt.
Woot, Woot! - There, I fixed it! The old Ridgeline went from "Dude what's that noise?" to quiet like mouse. I had my doubts that I could do it as my cavern looks darker and more forbidding than on the video but wow, it wasn't too hard and now I can scratch that issue off the list. Gracias amigo! You Rock!
Im really glad that 98% watched my video successfullycompleted the job and happy about it. I guess in return, I would like you guys to post some questions or video request. Im running out of videos to post. hahaha.
Thanks for sharing this with such clear and straight forward directions, especially doing the video by yourself. I checked mine like u had suggested and changed mine, bang on Appreciate!!!
OMG
This is the way to do it.
Forget messing with the belt cover (those bolts are a pain in the butt to get off).
Thank you, sir
If the vehicle has 100K miles or has driven that many miles since last timing belt replacement, then it is more than just the tensioner that should be having maintenance. There are kits that have the water pump, tensioner and associated pulleys, as well as the timing belt. It is cheaper to do the entire maintenance instead of risking the belt, water pump, and/or pulleys going bad after just replacing the tensioner.
Absolutely. 1000% true. 105k miles to be exact or 7yrs. Which ever comes first.
Number one tutorial video on the internet, lifesaving experience because of this video thank you very very much, and you also save me a whole lot of money😂
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Really good trick. My tensioner is leaking but I already ordered timing belt kit. If I dont forget I will try that trick with all the covers out and old tensioner before replacing everything.
Hey what did u end up doing?
@Hermiie I did it the old-fashioned way, removed and replaced everything. I had limited amount of time to do the job and did not play around to see if his trick is working. :(
Worked out well for my 2007 Honda pilot. I did need a friend to help as it was really hard to turn crank shaft enough and maneuver/set the tensioner and line up the bottom bolt. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for this! Just did my 2016 odyssey in 25 minutes following your advice. Big time saver versus taking covers and belt off. Thanks again, it worked perfectly for me.
Thank you so very much. Was able to change the tensioner on my car yesterday. Stay blessed ❤
@@NafisSazeed welcome.
Well this could be a game changer, I have a 2008 Odyssey with 206k an a noisy tensioner. I saw someone remove the covers but this seems way more doable!! Thank you!
Did you try it out? How’d it go?
That socket trick helped so much took spent like an hour trying to get it in before I saw this video
Thanks brother did this on my 2015 Honda accord exl . Saved me a ton . People were telling me I needed a whole nother engine . Support from Hawaii 🤙🏾
Hillside, how were you able to get the cam tensioner to pivot back into place? My new one won't budge (had to start the top bolt first, couldn't get the bottom to line up).
Update. Took the tensioner back out, tried the bottom bolt first again. Realized I had been pushing it TOO far in, that was why the lower bolt hole wasn't lining up. (Did advance the crank about 2" on the outside to loosen). Anyway, lined up the bottom and it went in. Then... the top one took a little pressure and lined up! THANKS MAN!! This whole procedure, while a pain (due to the mis-align), saved my probably $1500+ and a ton of PITA. Huge thanks ABCDE! - Dave.
I will add my thanks as well. This noise has been building for a while and several other videos just didn't seem to match up with our issue. It took me less than an hour for the whole repair on our 2016 odyssey. This saved so much money! Thanks so much for posting this video!
Thanks for this video. I just did this repair last night on my 06 Honda Pilot.
Awesome, very cool! I wasn't sure if this technicque would work on my Acura. The clearance was very tight, but your technique worked like a charm. Thanks for sharing the cool tricks, you're the man!
It should work on TL's
What year is your MDX? I've got a 2006 would it work on mine? It's got 103K miles and started making a knocking sound on cold start but goes away in a few minutes.
Thank you very much! Just fixed my 07 Honda Pilot. Bought OEM part from Amazon and shared this video in Amazon product review.
Thank you
Great video and tip. Just completed this install. Planning on the full service (timing belt, water pump, etc. - shortly). I was a little worried about aligning the hydraulic on the tensioner plunger with the tensioner pulley, but you could 'feel' it working/connecting the correct way. Thanks for the tip and video - Great stuff!
Thank you so much for your video. I tried this on my 2008 Honda Pilot 3.5l 6cylinder and it worked like a charm. Thanks again.
Did mine on a honda pilot 05 for a second time, the first time i removed all the covers. Your way is way better and faster. Thank you.
How many miles you have?
@@thayalansuntharalingam 198k.
You saved me so much time. Too bad I can’t return all the extra tools I bought. Lol. Thank you so much. 🙏
Thanks for watching.please like and subscribe
I don’t write comments very often, but you saved me a lot time and money… it worked!
Please subscribe and share to help others too.
Just did this on my 08 TL thanks to this vid. You’re a life saver! Thank you so much.
Thank you very much brother, I just fixed my 2011 Honda Pilot using your procedure, very good!!! thank you 😅
Thanks for the video! I found that when I went to reinstall the tentioner that it needed to be at that angle facing up to get the lower bolt to line up when you put pressure on it. Couldn’t get it at first but i finally realized that and bam, job done 😎
Very nice. I would have turned it a few times before cranking but you probably done this plenty of time. I subscribed and liked. Well worth it.
i have done it plenty of times. made good money from the dealer already because of this trick. 4hrs customer pay, 2 hrs warranty. and get it done in 15minutes. lol.
I’m so tempted to try this way out jus to avoid the hassle of doing a tbelt/wtrpump kit
Did you end up doing it?
I love this video man u save my life thinking was the motor have a honda accord 2017 touring v6 with the same noise and man listen God bless you brotha thanks so much for u content
@@magdalyfeliciano6370 your welcome. glad i could help
Sir, I can see a possible problem. If the engine is on TDC number 1 cylinder and you rotate the crank clockwise a little two far it might cause the rear cam to slip over top due to valve spring pressure causing the rear cam gear to jump out of time realative to the front cam and crank. Last time I was doing a timing belt without the tensonier being install I turned the crank clock wise and the the front cam only moved about two teeth, but the rear cam jumped clock wise about 4 teeth and lost proper timing. Of course I just put a wrench on the rear cam gear and moved it back to it proper mark and reinstall the belt. I think that home mechanics might miss this possible cam movement and assume the cam timing was correct and start up the engine which brings about sad things as you know.
@@bpetnoi1472 you are absolutely correct. it will jump timing. But i believe you have your timing cover also removed. that timing cover will hold your belt in place. Turning the crank by hand and camshaft sprung/jump, if your timing belt cover is stilll installed, not missing a bolt, it will not jump timing. try it your self. because i tried it my self. Its always a good practice to check your timing after you did this job. after all, you can check the timing without anything removed other than popping off the access cover to check cam shaft timing mark.
Thank you for the video Sir! You are an excellent mechanic!
Great video, thank you. I just did this in about 90 minutes. Very important to put the lower bolt in first. This is best way to do the job without taking off the lower timing belt housing and the crank shaft pulling which can be a real challenge. I too was very nervous pulling the pin out before installing....all went well.
any challenge putting the new tensioner in? any worrying moments?
A little concerned about getting the tensioner into the receiver and on the cam. I needed to turn the cam shaft more than I thought and about twice as much as shown in this video.
@@mikeduffy5670 yep first time ever doing this and can’t see what’s contacting it.
Basically move the crank if the tensioner isn’t going in. Bolt bottom bolt, move crank again so top bolt can be lined up. In a nutshell?
If you don't pull the pin before installing the new , isn't the bottom cover blocking the pin?
@@michaelgallo2723 yes this would’ve been the case and not be able to install it with the pin on
I watched many different videos this one was the most helpful thank you
@5:50 looked like the extension came down when you untied the bottom bolt: is that why it sprung out? At first glance the extension looked up and then down again.
I’m assuming it was hard to work with two hands and cámara 🎥?
I’m have the same issues with my 2012 odyssey was loud and I jacked up mellow down. I did feel small rattle by feel with signs of oil and grime around the edges of the tensioner.
I will do exactly what you suggested. Hope 🤞🏽 I can lineup the bolts. I did share your video 👍🏽
@@LOVE-JC777 it sprung out because i did not set the timing to TDC. even though, it will not jump timing.
I just finished putting a tensioner saved me a lot of time and cash I didn't have. That's the sh#t . Thank you
This worked on my 01 Acura CL but you need to take off the oil pressure sensor and use the base of it to pry up as there is very little room.
Also had to disconnect and reconnect the battery as the cam sensors were not happy.
Finally a real technician video..
Thanks my friend
Gracias carnal yo iba desarmar todo pero luego vi tu video lo hice en 20 minutos.
gracias amigo. midi cuida
Gracias por compartir, ya lo hice y me quedo muy bien ,en una Acura Mdx 2014, nada mas que tuve que quitar el sensor de aceite por que me estorbaba para quitar el tornillo de abajo.
Entonses todo le salio bien? Tengo una 2016 acura mdx que tiene el mismo motor.
Thank you so much! Followed your steps on a 2013 Honda pilot now noise is gone! You are awesome!
Please post some of your problems here. I might be able to help
@samp9908-Did you remove the oil filter sensor?Thanks and also thanks to @abcdeinformation3048
@@lakay990 in some model where oil pressure switch is right on top of the bolt for tensioner then yes, you need to remove the pressure switch. Use 27mm or adjustable wrench
@@lakay990 kuya. Mukhang pinoy po ata kayo. Patulong naman po ako sa page ko. Hahaha
@abcdeinformation3048 Yes boss pinoy ako🤣🤣🤣bossing salamat ngayon ko lang nagawa yong pilot ko halos katatapos lang boss langyang pawis ko sa kaba kala ko d ko mapapasok yong bolt boss🤣🤣🤣pero napasok dn maraming maraming salamat nasave mo ako ng 500$😂 taga fresno lang ako sa pinas camiling tarlac,paano gawin natin sa page mo boss?🍻🍻🍻
Tried it. It was very challenging to get the bottom bolt back in but it works.
Well i tried this and it worked 100% i have a 2016 acura mdx and the only thing diferent was i had to remove an oil sensor. I used the same 27 mm socket to remove that. Then used the same socket as leverage. The only thing that got me was i didnt rotate the crank enough so i strugled alil. But after i rotated it more it went right in. Sadly this wasnt my problem so il keep looking but this works 100%
Thanks for the comment. Hook me up. Maybe you can record a video of the noise, post it and send me the link of the noise. I might be able to help
@abcdeinformation3048 sounds like a slight knock while starting to accelerate. Will go away after out of first gear. Can be heard in the rear of the engine. Cannot be heard while in park it has to he in drive or reverse
Idk might be related to the massive recal honda and acura are doing for bad connecting rods
@@llamasmario8747 yeah. Deffinitely its not the tensioner. Monitor the noise if it stops whenever you see ECO in your dash. If noise stops when eco show up, you probably need valve adjust. If i have one with bad rear engine mount also.
@abcdeinformation3048 how would you check rear engine mount 🤔
Took me no more then 5 minutes to change it out the way you did! Thank you for the video. Was skeptical but figured I couldn't fuck it up more then it was already. Great job
Good tip. My 06 Pilot started making that noise, about 10 minutes later it sounded like the engine was eating itself, the two bolts holding the tensioner in place broke off in their holes. Sucks.
Oh no. Looks like somebody replaced it before and never get it tight enough.
I've watched this video a million times, just hope it works for me,, will report back..
Please. Let me know if you run into any problem. But it works for so many people. So i believe it will work for you also.
I just did it, just like he says to and it worked
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Very well done and easy to follow.
please like and subscribe. 😅😅😅
Thanks this method works. Took 30 min
Heck yeah I’ve been dealing with this since 2019 but it got worse over time and Thanks to this video it’s fixed thank you so much….
Thanks for your apprecitation.
It took me a lot longer on my 07 Honda Ridgeline. About 2 hours to get that first bolt lined back up, then easy. My tensioner was bad, but I still have lots of noise. I’m thinking a pulley bearing went out.😢
@@PhilFrederick-s5h sorry to hear that. do you feel vibration on the tensioner after you replace the tensioner? if no vibration, i suggest you remove your drive belt and start the car. your noise might be external.
What a great video! Saved me a lot of time. Thank you!😊
Very helpfull and acurate. Worked perfectly and saved my daughters 2005 Pilot. Thanks so much!!!!
Thank you. Appreciate you appreciation.
I did the entire belt/pump, and made the mistake of using Autozone Duralast timing belt kit.
The Duralast tensioner lasted 30k before giving up the ghost.
Honda OEM only here.
I had a Honda Civic 2017, my mechanic advized me when I bought it to only use original parts as he had a lot of bad experience with hondas and third party parts.
Thank it fix my Honda pilot 2013 you are a blessing
im pretty sure my tensioner has gone out. i drive a 2007 honda pilot with just under 200k miles with the original tensioner still installed. im gonna give this a shot probably tomorrow. hoping its the same procedure
It should be the same. Pretty sure you can get it done
Wait, you have a pilot with 200k on it and never had the timing belt serviced?! Brave
@@punx4life85 yep. She’s been very good to me. I do all the work on it myself. My alternator which was the original just went out last year. Original starter went out year before last. Tensioner was also the original. I’m very ocd with the maintenance. I’ll be replacing the original suspension in a few months once I have the last couple of parts. All my buddies say it’s crazy that my engine is so quiet for being so old. It should sound like a rattling mess but it sounds like it did when I bought it.
awesome ingenuity and use of tools.
I hate it when I pull the pin
Oh…I did this on a 2008 Honda Ridgeline and $58.00 tensioner from Amazon. Timing belt last replace at 225000 mile and now has 270000 miles on the clock.
What an awesome video. Saved $$ and time which is worth even more.
This is great but remember, it’s a good idea to do the belt and water pump as well and do it the “long way.” Replacing just tensioner on a worn belt (100k miles) is dangerous and could lead to bent valves when the belt kicks off.
100%
Great video, I was wondering why you pulled the pin out before installation, if you had left it in wouldn't it have made it easier
It will not go in. Maybe cut a knotch on your cover
I subscribed to your channel because of this video. Thanks.
You are the best 👌 thank you, sir 🙏 I just did for my 2014 honda odyssey, thank you again 😊
I respect your knowledge and wisdom keep it up bro