Thanks a lot for this video! After watching several videos on your channel I found the courage to replace the usb port of my Charge 3. It was my first time soldering and the whole process took me 4 hours but I did it. Without your very well done videos and your calm explaining style I could not have done it. Cheers! Keep up your awesome work! :)
JBL was founded in 1946 and Harman Kardon in 1953, but James Bullough Lansing (yes, also the founder of Altec Lansing) killed himself in 1949 and JBL was run by Bill Thomas from 1949-1969. In 1969, the Jervis Corporation bought JBL, and in 1978 the Jervis Corporation was renamed Harman International Industries, and more recently in 2017 was actually bought by Samsung. Brands include AKG, AMX, Arcam, Bang & Olufsen Automotive, Becker, BSS Audio, Crown, dbx, DigiTech, Harman Kardon, Infinity, JBL, Lexicon, Mark Levinson, Martin, Revel, Soundcraft and Studer. (from several Wikipedia pages)
Reversing the screws in their holes a bit (to align the threads) before screwing them back in can save a lot of headaches with re-threading and stripping their heads. 👍🏻
"I don't have to [do something] but I'm going to anyway because now I'm curious!" If I had a dollar for every time I said that and then killed something... lol
Just wanted to say thanks for a great video. A couple months ago, a friend gave me a JBL flip 3, due to the charging port being shot. She knows I like to tinker with electronics, and thought I could fix it. I actually forgot all about it until I came across your video in my subscription suggestions section. It was nice to be able to watch in advance, exactly what I need to do to remedy this speaker. Oh yea, I definitely need to invest in a desoldering gun. Wow! That makes quick work out of cleaning the holes. Thanks again for the video.
TIL the phrase "Belt and braces" - being careful - taking double measures to avoid risk. It alludes to the use of both belt *and* braces to hold up a person's trousers. I'm 45, born and raised in the UK, left for Australia 13 years ago. Never heard the phrase, love it though :)
Passive radiators require very precise calculation at the design stage to work effectively, even more so than bass reflex ports. That's why they don't always work as well on the cheaper Bluetooth speakers compared to these JBLs. It's also the reason I build ported boxes; I did a PR build once and the tuning was off despite being calculated "correctly".
Astounding how much Bass Passive Radiators Provide, Great Fix especially because the Unit looks as if it's never required a repair.. APU I dropped a like and watched all the adverts to ensure that the .08% shared with TH-cams 99.02% cut from advertising eventually gets to you..
Well done with the socket repair and the fight with the case lol :-D I really could have done with the desolder gun 34 years ago when i was replacing 40 pin chips in zx spectrums and bigger ones in vcr's. I used a piston and spring type of solder remover, took ages :-(
Hi Graham, just a note on the electric screwdriver I bought one after your review and impressed but it lasted a month. Again in fairness I was removing case fans which it does struggle with. Great for laptop base and screen removal though.
Bummer! Mine's been holding up to 'unfair jobs' so far, but shame to hear that yours didn't! I'll keep brutalising mine, find out if it's just luck of the draw or not. Cheers for the comment though, good to know how well these things are doing in the wild.
I know a Video Revival but I have the Charge 4 and now the USB is a USB-C. That is actually for Charging the Battery, the normal USB is to connect your cellphone to be able to charge your cellphone off the the Charge 4 - hence the name, "Charge".... The 3.5 is to plug an Aux feed etc. They are built the way they are because they are supposed to be totally Waterproof - they can float in a swimming for up to 30 minutes! And not to sure about the Charge 3 but the Charge 4 is a great sounding bit of kit with amazing depth of sound! But they do cost £159.00
Tech tip when replacing those type of screws they can easily be cross threaded. To avoid that you would turn the screw counter clockwise until you hear or feel the thread match up then tighten. This will also prevent problems when the screw needs to removed and replaced in the future
@@R.AudioElectronics Don't apologize. When advice is good it doesn't matter how many times it is said or written (it will also be appreciated). Greetings.
Hello mate, iv trawled though all your vids, love your content, I'd very much like to see some more dead laptop diagnosis and repair, or anythong else. Maybe you could do a challenge where you buy something faulty and try fix and flip for profit. Thankyou for the valuable information.
On anything I own now with an old style micro USB port I get the magnetic usb cable and connectors from Amazon. Any pressure on the cable and the magnetic connection will let go.
1. apply leaded solder on every pin from both side of board 2. apply hotair from BACK of the board so u dont melt plastic 3. WIPE solder from holes and pads with solder wick 4. apply FLUX!!! 5. Solder pins 6. Clean with IPA!!! If u want to learn how to solder properly, go to NorthridgeFix channel
When doing those achors put the iron flush to the anchor and feed the solder in, you were trying to touch the edge of the anchor, you were at ninety degrees to the anchors if you know what I mean.
Yea I was trying not to push the connector out. I should've viced it up. You can get away with solder-blobbing small stuff like this though, add solder to tip, and the blob will transfer the heat, use discretion to avoid dry joints. Not text-book, but it works.
(18:05) Although it protected that 220uF - 16Vdc electrolytic capacitor with Capstan tape, there is still a (minimal if you will) risk of explosion (as I've heard at least twice from NorthRidge Fix). The best thing would have been to remove that USB connector by applying Hot Air at 450 degrees Celsius but on the other side of the PCB, that is, underneath. Fortunately nothing happened in this case, it makes no sense to take unnecessary risks in future repairs. Best regards.
Yea I noticed that it wasn't a fan of it. I wasn't going to flux before de-soldering, but I figured I'd please the keyboard warriors. There was a lot of flux smoke from every gap in the body of the de-soldering gun - that was what prompted me to then say 'no, heck off keyboard warriors, I'll use flux when it's actually useful, not when you guys think it's needed.'
Hi I followed your strip down video and changed the micro usb connector, I have also bought a replacement battery and changed that as it was not charging. It still won’t charge even though it has had both of these changed. I have tried more than one micro usb cable and charging plug. Where would you look next ? Cheers
It kinda depends. At face value, it's a lot of hassle for not a lot of money. But for me, it's no big deal to do this kind of work, so I don't mind doing a 'high skilled job' for very little money since I could do it in less than half an hour if I was trying. There's certainly other jobs I do daily that are a lot easier for more money though.
I want to know if my Extreme 2 still repairable? because some had borrowed it without the charger. When the battery was low they tried to recharging it using the USB on the back of Extreme direct to power outlet. After returning blutooth and Power on does not ON if using battery only and goes ON only if plug and using only line IN jack to make it sound from audio source. 😞
hey man could i ask you how do you tel all the different power rails and if 3.3 rail is shorted can you inject volts on 19volt power rail and find short on 3.3 volt power rail
Some boards are easy to read, some aren't. Or you can get a schematic to show where everything is. In this video I show how in some cases you can find all the rails just by observing: th-cam.com/video/djUzRTCZrck/w-d-xo.html However, when injecting, you need to inject on the shorted rail. Each secondary power supply is partially isolated from the main power rail.
I've just replaced a ribbon cable in my action cam with an assist from your videos, however the micro USB charge port needs replacing soon, is there any way of showing a flat mount micro USB replacement on a very small populated board with the cavate of NOT using a heat gun and possibly an off the shelf soldering iron to add a little intrigue!
I couldn’t find the exact charging port. So I got it replaced with a standard USB-C port, but it is not getting charged up. Is it necessary to use the exact same port ?
UCB-C ports are more complicated. But the first thing to check is to connect it to a USB-A charger with an A to C cable. Most USB-C chargers will be PowerDelivery, which requires circuitry in the device to negotiate the voltage, so a simple 'connect the positive and negative pins' won't work.
hello Mr Adamant, i need a big help from you, i got a HP CQ 420 laptop, its auto on and off continuously when plugging to charger and also no display, several technicians checked and said to replace the motherboard, i wish to have your advice if there any possibility to get it repair
I have the same speaker and issue, I ordered some spare ports and made it to the de-soldering part but I only own a janky soldering iron, not really suited for the job. That hot air really made it look easy, perhaps I should ask around if anyone has a station I could borrow...
i wouldn't call that screwdriver "abuse" ...just *real world* level use that it'll likely encounter, as long as the owner takes it out of its retail box.
Well, when you use it on laptop screws, there's no [sounds of distress and slowness], it just zapps the screw out. These self-tapping-into-plastic screws are hard work for even a manual screw driver. I think it's reasonable to set limits on what we can expect a £30 electric screwdriver to be designed to deal with.
They Shoulda Recalled These, it seems to be Common problem, I found one and has the same problem... thought about fixing but I don't have the tools to fix
@@SstalkerS I have had good success using a regular solder sucker and a soldering iron on opposite sides of the board. Usually clamp the board with the iron on the underside and when the solder goes shiny, one quick pump and the hole is clear. Sometimes it helps to fill the hole with unleaded solder first. (Edit - I meant leaded solder)
Could've saved yourself a tiny bit of effort by removing the damaged port with the hot air from the bottom of the board, since it's pretty much bare. But overall really well done, great video.
I aim for the top to make sure the data pins get heated properly. It's really easy to accidently rip pads when the anchors start flowing before the data pins do. Considering there's no concern about melting the plug itself, it's easy to just go above. However, if I were hot-airing the new connector on because I couldn't clear the holes (no desoldering pump) then heating from under the board would definitely be the way forward 👌
@@Adamant_IT it is much more easy to use low melting point solder on the joints and then use just 150-180C to remove the connector.. P.S.> Have you got my mail about the Thermal camera?
I charge for the job, so I can take my time. Filming videos makes everything take twice as long - I'm a lot faster when the cameras are off and I'm not talking.
@@Adamant_IT I imagine there aren't many things at this stage of your career that you don't know how to charge for? Btw, I got on the discord server recently and the people on there were super friendly and able to help me out!
poooooosibly, if anything the tall mount of this would probably make it easier - you'd need space to have a type-c break-out board that converts the many pins of type C to a 5-pin micro. Probably doable though!
@@QuentinStephens I can't even find an available board for this model, all sold out Not to mention the price difference with just a simple dollar worth of a connector. Plus you gain the experience of the repair and you make more money / save money for the customer. Changing a port and changing a board is a small time difference. You still have to disassemble and assemble the device back together. So i don't get your 30 minutes vs 5 minutes math. The old board is worthless to me without the rest of the speaker. Repairing it "at leisure" is still wasting that time you're so obsessed about saving in the first place. I prefer spending my leisure time with my friends. And that is worth more to me than some X more minutes that it would take me to finish the job. Time is only money if you spend it making a shit ton of money and that's your main life goal. Otherwise it's just a meaningless phrase. To each his own i suppose. Edit: Imho i can see your logic working for big corporations with warranty support. I just prefer working/wasting my time for money, not for spare parts that i might even NOT come to use in the future. Plus my customer will be happy to get a cheaper fix, which in turn will win me a future customer, a.k.a. more money.
I just used a hot air gun and a simple mechanical desolderung pump. to claer SATA port holes. ALso doable but waaay more stressful than this magic desolgering gun
Honestly I'd rate this one pretty high, the weakness is just that Micro-B itself just isn't strong enough for abusive situations like this. I think this is a well-built unit.
Thanks a lot for this video! After watching several videos on your channel I found the courage to replace the usb port of my Charge 3. It was my first time soldering and the whole process took me 4 hours but I did it. Without your very well done videos and your calm explaining style I could not have done it. Cheers! Keep up your awesome work! :)
JBL was founded in 1946 and Harman Kardon in 1953, but James Bullough Lansing (yes, also the founder of Altec Lansing) killed himself in 1949 and JBL was run by Bill Thomas from 1949-1969.
In 1969, the Jervis Corporation bought JBL, and in 1978 the Jervis Corporation was renamed Harman International Industries, and more recently in 2017 was actually bought by Samsung.
Brands include AKG, AMX, Arcam, Bang & Olufsen Automotive, Becker, BSS Audio, Crown, dbx, DigiTech, Harman Kardon, Infinity, JBL, Lexicon, Mark Levinson, Martin, Revel, Soundcraft and Studer.
(from several Wikipedia pages)
Good share, thanks! 👍
Reversing the screws in their holes a bit (to align the threads) before screwing them back in can save a lot of headaches with re-threading and stripping their heads. 👍🏻
"I don't have to [do something] but I'm going to anyway because now I'm curious!"
If I had a dollar for every time I said that and then killed something...
lol
That's usually how we learn new things :) Learned to appreciate googling a good disassembly instruction beforehand :D
Can see Louis Rossman, Mark fixes stuff, and RMC all liking this video.
Just wanted to say thanks for a great video. A couple months ago, a friend gave me a JBL flip 3, due to the charging port being shot. She knows I like to tinker with electronics, and thought I could fix it. I actually forgot all about it until I came across your video in my subscription suggestions section. It was nice to be able to watch in advance, exactly what I need to do to remedy this speaker. Oh yea, I definitely need to invest in a desoldering gun. Wow! That makes quick work out of cleaning the holes. Thanks again for the video.
Nice Video. keep them coming. From one tech to another. I enjoy seeing other doing what I do for a living.
TIL the phrase "Belt and braces" - being careful - taking double measures to avoid risk. It alludes to the use of both belt *and* braces to hold up a person's trousers.
I'm 45, born and raised in the UK, left for Australia 13 years ago. Never heard the phrase, love it though :)
Passive radiators require very precise calculation at the design stage to work effectively, even more so than bass reflex ports. That's why they don't always work as well on the cheaper Bluetooth speakers compared to these JBLs. It's also the reason I build ported boxes; I did a PR build once and the tuning was off despite being calculated "correctly".
These speakers are well made indeed. Always wanted to know what was inside one of these. Nice work.
You're so close to 80K subs, well done.
Already passed the mark! GG!
Astounding how much Bass Passive Radiators Provide, Great Fix especially because the Unit looks as if it's never required a repair..
APU I dropped a like and watched all the adverts to ensure that the .08% shared with TH-cams 99.02% cut from advertising eventually gets to you..
the 2nd comparison of the USB ports looks exactly like the first tab you closed out cuz it was too short lol. still good shit as usual 🤟
Me :
23:06 "watch out for the white connector, Graham.."
23:31 "oh dear.."
i've done the same so many times too.. 😅
"Dailylight robbery". I like that.
Thanks for showing us how to use and find parts and thanks for the show
Well done with the socket repair and the fight with the case lol :-D
I really could have done with the desolder gun 34 years ago when i was replacing 40 pin chips in zx spectrums and bigger ones in vcr's.
I used a piston and spring type of solder remover, took ages :-(
I used a soldapullt... old memories... They still exist, a greeting.
Aaahh i kinda missed the fluttershy mug, and nice vid i really like your vids and hope you makemore lets fix computers/laptops
Hi Graham, just a note on the electric screwdriver I bought one after your review and impressed but it lasted a month. Again in fairness I was removing case fans which it does struggle with. Great for laptop base and screen removal though.
Bummer! Mine's been holding up to 'unfair jobs' so far, but shame to hear that yours didn't!
I'll keep brutalising mine, find out if it's just luck of the draw or not. Cheers for the comment though, good to know how well these things are doing in the wild.
Didn't stop me trying again though as overall i thought it was a good purchase
I know a Video Revival but I have the Charge 4 and now the USB is a USB-C. That is actually for Charging the Battery, the normal USB is to connect your cellphone to be able to charge your cellphone off the the Charge 4 - hence the name, "Charge".... The 3.5 is to plug an Aux feed etc.
They are built the way they are because they are supposed to be totally Waterproof - they can float in a swimming for up to 30 minutes!
And not to sure about the Charge 3 but the Charge 4 is a great sounding bit of kit with amazing depth of sound! But they do cost £159.00
love your videos, cant wait to see your 100K sub youtube badge hanging on your wall in the future :D
Your allergy to flux amuses me lol great job
Tech tip when replacing those type of screws they can easily be cross threaded. To avoid that you would turn the screw counter clockwise until you hear or feel the thread match up then tighten. This will also prevent problems when the screw needs to removed and replaced in the future
Sorry I didn’t read other comments first🙁
@@R.AudioElectronics Don't apologize. When advice is good it doesn't matter how many times it is said or written (it will also be appreciated). Greetings.
you never know what someone is gonna want you to repair lol. i remember someone once brought in a paper shredder for repair
he's replaced the hard drive in an Xbox One and the power supply in a shop till/cash register, but a shredder sounds like a bit of a stretch!
sounds like an interesting job
You are right. I just hope that someone won't come to my workshop with a missile.
flux helps the solder flow afaik. most comes with flux in the core.
He's using rosin flux cored solder. Notice the little bits of smoke when he applies some solder wire.
@@chrisharvie-smith486 what is this rosin flux? when can it be used?
Hello mate, iv trawled though all your vids, love your content, I'd very much like to see some more dead laptop diagnosis and repair, or anythong else. Maybe you could do a challenge where you buy something faulty and try fix and flip for profit. Thankyou for the valuable information.
On anything I own now with an old style micro USB port I get the magnetic usb cable and connectors from Amazon. Any pressure on the cable and the magnetic connection will let go.
This ^^^ micro USB is just a bad connector.
1. apply leaded solder on every pin from both side of board
2. apply hotair from BACK of the board so u dont melt plastic
3. WIPE solder from holes and pads with solder wick
4. apply FLUX!!!
5. Solder pins
6. Clean with IPA!!!
If u want to learn how to solder properly, go to NorthridgeFix channel
7. Drink IPA after a long day of repair work.
When doing those achors put the iron flush to the anchor and feed the solder in, you were trying to touch the edge of the anchor, you were at ninety degrees to the anchors if you know what I mean.
Yea I was trying not to push the connector out. I should've viced it up. You can get away with solder-blobbing small stuff like this though, add solder to tip, and the blob will transfer the heat, use discretion to avoid dry joints. Not text-book, but it works.
@@Adamant_IT Still prefer flux over discretion xD
(18:05) Although it protected that 220uF - 16Vdc electrolytic capacitor with Capstan tape, there is still a (minimal if you will) risk of explosion (as I've heard at least twice from NorthRidge Fix). The best thing would have been to remove that USB connector by applying Hot Air at 450 degrees Celsius but on the other side of the PCB, that is, underneath. Fortunately nothing happened in this case, it makes no sense to take unnecessary risks in future repairs. Best regards.
Really like your videos. Very real world.
Good video, thank you! Have you ever done the same repair on a Tribit bluetooth speaker?
"Solder-sucker" was pretty cool.
Just a note on the de-soldering gun, flux will gunk it up quickly.
Yea I noticed that it wasn't a fan of it. I wasn't going to flux before de-soldering, but I figured I'd please the keyboard warriors. There was a lot of flux smoke from every gap in the body of the de-soldering gun - that was what prompted me to then say 'no, heck off keyboard warriors, I'll use flux when it's actually useful, not when you guys think it's needed.'
Hi
I followed your strip down video and changed the micro usb connector, I have also bought a replacement battery and changed that as it was not charging. It still won’t charge even though it has had both of these changed. I have tried more than one micro usb cable and charging plug. Where would you look next ?
Cheers
Nice job especially with the desoldering gun. 👍 Do you have a link for that useful piece of gear? Thanks.
Never ever wiggle the connector while desoldering. You might rip the pads off
love your videos keep up the great work
I broke mine on the second screw on the chassis of an rc car bought a larger cheaper one and its still going strong.
Love my leccy desolder pump. Was expensive but worth the money
Thanks!
From the USA. You're really good. Is this cost-effective or for TH-cam? Still entertaining and for future reference. Thanks.
It kinda depends. At face value, it's a lot of hassle for not a lot of money. But for me, it's no big deal to do this kind of work, so I don't mind doing a 'high skilled job' for very little money since I could do it in less than half an hour if I was trying. There's certainly other jobs I do daily that are a lot easier for more money though.
I want to know if my Extreme 2 still repairable? because some had borrowed it without the charger. When the battery was low they tried to recharging it using the USB on the back of Extreme direct to power outlet. After returning blutooth and Power on does not ON if using battery only and goes ON only if plug and using only line IN jack to make it sound from audio source. 😞
JBL, Akg, Crown, Arman Kardon, Lexicon, Samsung, dbx, Soundcraft, and a few other companies are in the Arman International Group
The solder vacuum sounds lkke you going 'AAAAAH' close to the mic.
hey man could i ask you how do you tel all the different power rails and if 3.3 rail is shorted can you inject volts on 19volt power rail and find short on 3.3 volt power rail
Some boards are easy to read, some aren't. Or you can get a schematic to show where everything is. In this video I show how in some cases you can find all the rails just by observing: th-cam.com/video/djUzRTCZrck/w-d-xo.html
However, when injecting, you need to inject on the shorted rail. Each secondary power supply is partially isolated from the main power rail.
Thank you so much worked like a charm ✨️
I'm gonna subscribe 🍻
"I have solder wicked many holes before"... Oh My
Hi just a quick 1 what do you recomend microscope wise for some small jobs ie micro soldering
Adam what camera are you using ?
I have this kind of speaker but it won't charge, I checked only 5V and 0.1 A when i charge. I don't know what the problem is. Charging port looks good
I've just replaced a ribbon cable in my action cam with an assist from your videos, however the micro USB charge port needs replacing soon, is there any way of showing a flat mount micro USB replacement on a very small populated board with the cavate of NOT using a heat gun and possibly an off the shelf soldering iron to add a little intrigue!
low melt solder
Can the micro USB, be swapped to use the type c connector ?
Let's fix computers "yeah, i have a bluetooth speaker here"
I couldn’t find the exact charging port. So I got it replaced with a standard USB-C port, but it is not getting charged up.
Is it necessary to use the exact same port ?
UCB-C ports are more complicated. But the first thing to check is to connect it to a USB-A charger with an A to C cable.
Most USB-C chargers will be PowerDelivery, which requires circuitry in the device to negotiate the voltage, so a simple 'connect the positive and negative pins' won't work.
I have two of these speakers and they want fully charge anymore
I'm interested in the tools you use? Do you have model nrs?
you look great with those glasses on,
Wonder if you can change it to a USB-C
hello Mr Adamant, i need a big help from you, i got a HP CQ 420 laptop, its auto on and off continuously when plugging to charger and also no display, several technicians checked and said to replace the motherboard, i wish to have your advice if there any possibility to get it repair
Nicely done!!!thanksss
thanks for this video keep it up.
you need a jamco electronics catalog...if its pcb related or part they prob have it
Un video muy interersante,gracias!
! Great show
I have the same speaker and issue, I ordered some spare ports and made it to the de-soldering part but I only own a janky soldering iron, not really suited for the job. That hot air really made it look easy, perhaps I should ask around if anyone has a station I could borrow...
thanks for the video
instead of breaking the electric screwdriver you broke your appliers instead, people from discord will know what im talking about *wink wink*
The end bits are passive radiators.
Thank you!
What desolder gun is it? Maybe the ZD-915?
Sir, how to run jbl charge 3 without battery only power bank will use it..
4:35 i was just gonna say, what happened to the electric boy....
i wouldn't call that screwdriver "abuse" ...just *real world* level use that it'll likely encounter, as long as the owner takes it out of its retail box.
Well, when you use it on laptop screws, there's no [sounds of distress and slowness], it just zapps the screw out. These self-tapping-into-plastic screws are hard work for even a manual screw driver. I think it's reasonable to set limits on what we can expect a £30 electric screwdriver to be designed to deal with.
Thanks broo your video soo help 😊 fully for me 😉
Nice job
what music at the end when test the speaker?
They Shoulda Recalled These, it seems to be Common problem, I found one and has the same problem... thought about fixing but I don't have the tools to fix
Does anybody know if the speaker can operate with the charger only, and the battery removed?
Thank you M.r
That's one elaborate desoldering gun commercial
Worked a treat though ;)
Normally clearing the holes is the worst part of the job!
@@Adamant_IT yeah usually takes the most time for me as well
@@SstalkerS I have had good success using a regular solder sucker and a soldering iron on opposite sides of the board. Usually clamp the board with the iron on the underside and when the solder goes shiny, one quick pump and the hole is clear. Sometimes it helps to fill the hole with unleaded solder first. (Edit - I meant leaded solder)
@@coctailrob tnx for the tip
hi there where is your shop what is the address ?
Plz how I'll order charging port parts
From Wikipedia: "JBL is owned by Harman International, a subsidiary of Samsung Electronics."
Is it possible to change this to usb c connector ?
Could've saved yourself a tiny bit of effort by removing the damaged port with the hot air from the bottom of the board, since it's pretty much bare. But overall really well done, great video.
I aim for the top to make sure the data pins get heated properly. It's really easy to accidently rip pads when the anchors start flowing before the data pins do. Considering there's no concern about melting the plug itself, it's easy to just go above.
However, if I were hot-airing the new connector on because I couldn't clear the holes (no desoldering pump) then heating from under the board would definitely be the way forward 👌
@@Adamant_IT it is much more easy to use low melting point solder on the joints and then use just 150-180C to remove the connector..
P.S.> Have you got my mail about the Thermal camera?
This i was doing when i was 5!
name of your microscope
seems like quite the modular speaker for the most part but I guess they had to make a profit somewhere.
Please give the link for desoldering gun sir
Jbl extreme2 clone battery of 1200mah dule polarity help please
Do you charge based on how long it took you?
I charge for the job, so I can take my time. Filming videos makes everything take twice as long - I'm a lot faster when the cameras are off and I'm not talking.
@@Adamant_IT I imagine there aren't many things at this stage of your career that you don't know how to charge for? Btw, I got on the discord server recently and the people on there were super friendly and able to help me out!
@@Adamant_IT I cannot resist :-D - That's what she said!
If this had been a standard flush mounted micro usb connector could you theoretically have mounted a usb c connector?
poooooosibly, if anything the tall mount of this would probably make it easier - you'd need space to have a type-c break-out board that converts the many pins of type C to a 5-pin micro. Probably doable though!
I'm surprised you didn't search for and buy the daughterboard as a whole - it would have made the repair much simpler
And far less profitable. Why would you throw away a perfectly good working board? Needless e-waste.
@@em0_tion Because time is money: a 30 minute+ fix becomes a 5 minute fix. The old board can be repaired at leisure and kept as a spare.
@@QuentinStephens I can't even find an available board for this model, all sold out Not to mention the price difference with just a simple dollar worth of a connector. Plus you gain the experience of the repair and you make more money / save money for the customer. Changing a port and changing a board is a small time difference. You still have to disassemble and assemble the device back together. So i don't get your 30 minutes vs 5 minutes math. The old board is worthless to me without the rest of the speaker. Repairing it "at leisure" is still wasting that time you're so obsessed about saving in the first place. I prefer spending my leisure time with my friends. And that is worth more to me than some X more minutes that it would take me to finish the job. Time is only money if you spend it making a shit ton of money and that's your main life goal. Otherwise it's just a meaningless phrase. To each his own i suppose.
Edit: Imho i can see your logic working for big corporations with warranty support. I just prefer working/wasting my time for money, not for spare parts that i might even NOT come to use in the future. Plus my customer will be happy to get a cheaper fix, which in turn will win me a future customer, a.k.a. more money.
@@em0_tion The boards were available on ebay when I checked.
@@QuentinStephens and watching a video of him buying a daughter board in a 5 minute video would interest you?
Help fix the charger its loose
I just used a hot air gun and a simple mechanical desolderung pump. to claer SATA port holes. ALso doable but waaay more stressful than this magic desolgering gun
Whats the intro music, love it
samsynthis.tumblr.com/post/160007840476/completion-time-34-minutes-just-messing-around
fuckin love you used a DnB track to test it m8! rinnnsssseeeeeeeeee
...I bought a dindinmodern speaker last time. Although it is not perfect, it is the best among the products at the same price...:))
Imagine the price you pay for this speaker only to find out the quality of the PCB is garbage.
Honestly I'd rate this one pretty high, the weakness is just that Micro-B itself just isn't strong enough for abusive situations like this. I think this is a well-built unit.