SO GOOD that you gave a clear view of what it looks like under the inlet manifold! It's been very hard to find that anywhere... Great stuff, and thank you
Just do a leak test with a cigar. All you need is a cigar, a glove , and a 7$ syphon pump from harbor freight. The smoke came from my disa valve, I replaced it and now it’s good.
@@Everybodyshinetogether1 I had lean codes for both banks but no misfire. if you have misfire, try switching the spark plugs/and or coils to see if the code for the cylinder changes. if it does, it is likely an issue with that plug/coil.
Gotta be my favorite channel Nate. I love bmws more than anything. Ive had an e36 328 convertible, bought my dream car a e24 6 series manual, I have two 5 speed manual e53s and 3 different e39s a 540i, 525i stick, and a 528i. Thank you so much for this info you give us you've really brought my dreams of success and getting a shop going to a very feasable possibility, I hope to one day return the favor to you thanks brother.
My 2001 X5's rough idle turned out to be the most-easily-accessible component-- the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, which sits just above the air filter housing. Idling rough, and I started to dig in to the various things shown in this and other videos. On a whim, I disconnected the MAF, started the vehicle and it is running smooth as silk now! New replacement MAFs are spendy. I found a used one on eBay for far less. Worth a shot for the price I paid,
I gotta say hands your channels been one of the best in helping me diagnose all my simple issues and how to do yourself vids. Should come on down get my E39 running great I’ve spent so much money on half ass mechanics it’s sad what’s to bad is the dealer could of had it done at the amount I’ve spent and still runs very and sounds loud (fan ) any idea what I can do
My little runner has 172k miles on it. I know it needs a new secondary air pump, so it's next on the list of new parts right off the bat. Here's what happens... I'll get in and it starts immediately, runs smooth at start, lots of clean power all the way up until it gets warm from sitting at lights or at a drive through. After this point, i've noticed that the acceleration feels 'muddy' and it sounds differently in the 'tone' i've learned while driving it. When it gets like this, i have to take the RPM way up to at least 4k to 5k to feel like i'm 'blowing' it out, then it runs fine afterward, until i have to stop at another light of leave it idling for any length of time. Other than this issue, it runs perfectly. I've missed something somewhere and i'm just not sure what to fix, rebuild or just outright replace. Here's what i've replaced so far so it's known and possibly narrow it down. I've installed the BAFX bluetooth OBD II gadget so i can keep a better eye on temps, intake and all the other stuffs i can readily see as i'm driving... i'm just stumped to be honest of what's causing this. NOTE: when it does this, when i get back home the front fan will kick on and there's a really strange possibly 'electrical or rubber' smell coming from the engine bay. When it does this, from a cold start again, i have to tach it up and it'll clear out and be fine until as described before it warms up. The car seems to love the cold weather more than the warmer weather. The DISA valve maybe...? I just don't know... I'm still learning this vehicle step by step. (literally, piece by piece...) lol Replaced parts and/or rebuilt parts so far: *fuel pump *fuel filter *lower hose with OEM coolant sensor *upper hose to expansion tank *expansion tank *thermostat *water pump *rebuilt the VANOS *K&N cold air intake (the proper one designed for the 3 series) *valve cover gasket *fan shroud When it's not doing this, the power is ALL there and a blast to drive. There isn't any smoke from the exhaust or the engine bay that's noticeable that i've ever seen. I'll get a misfire code from time to time but, not really all that often. The secondary air pump is really the only code that will pop up, code wise. Guys (and girls) I just don't know where to look to fix what appears to be a minor problem and i've already replaced most of everything off hand i can think of realistically. I love driving this car but, there is definately something wrong with it. I'm on a limited income but, it's worth it to me to find and fix whatever is causing this. I'm planning on giving it to my 17 year old daughter eventually but, i have to have everything working perfectly before i hand it over to her first. Thank you for your inputs and suggestions on this matter... all of them are accepted and MUCH appreciated. I'm sincerely at a loss here and don't know what else to do...
No one focuses enough on the break booster line to manifold behind Throttle body. I just put my M52Tu back together after doing CCV, ICV, and those two plastic coolant/heater pipes. Well I go to start the car and it runs like a bag of spanners, and NO power brakes. Obviously I broke that connector to the line. looking at 5:30 - is it possible to pull out 90 deg elbow connector and plug new one in without manifold removal? I'd love to not have to pull the entire manifold again. But then how do your route the hose? Oh man. I'm gutted i gotta do it all again.
Replacing that elbow connector at back of manifold for brake vacuum should be standard practice everytime you remove a manifold, regardless of whether yours is broken. We know how brittle the plastics get. Pay the $10 and avoid the heartache of cracking it during installation of manifold, only to find out when you start her up that you got a massive vacuum leak, no power brakes, and you cant reach the busted part, and you're starting again. ask me how I know..
Thank you finally a detailed visual explanation of our dreaded vacuum codes I've checked all hoses and Dias valve oring and boots changed so now fuel line and behind the manifold is tonight's job thanks
In this video you show a vacuum line on top the fuel rail that is cut. Does that go down under the to the nipple on the ccv cone? The diagram i have shows the line coming from the EGR pump going to that line. Where would the nipple on the gold egr pump go to?
Great video I got a P017 and P0174 on my 2007 BMW 530i. I get high fuel trims at idle that immediately go away once I go to a higher rpm. Fuel trims implied a vacuum leak. I did a smoke test and I could not find a leak. Do you guys have any ideas what it could be?
This video is very helpful. I can hear a vacuum leak around what you were calling the “vacuum log”. And I’m also getting a constant cyl. 5 misfire with fuel cutoff. Ive swapped around coil packs and spark plugs and it stays the same. Could my “vacuum log” be leaking only at the cylinder 5 intake port?
Can you do some more on 2003x5 3.0i v6 ABS LIGHTS ANS SERVICE ENGINE LIGHTS, I’ve learned so much from your videos!!! Saved me 1000$ of dollars, now I just do it myself !! Thanks!!!!!!!!!
first of all I'd like to say thank you Nathan for all your hard work and providing us with these videos very helpful. my question is i have a bmw x5 3.0si 2008. i just did the valve cover gasket and replaced eccentric sensor too. during my repairs and waiting for parts for delivery I left my car exposed the night before it rained and a ton of water got inside not in the engine because I had a completely plastic cover but I'm assuming it was a lot of damage to the back part of my engine everything else was completely lost I had a little bit of water maybe about an inch inside my ebox but now after I replaced and put everything back together my car has some sort of it shaking between 1500 RPM and 2000 RPM and sometimes it stalls or turns off on me I disconnected the air mass sensor meter that way it works better but for some reason everytime I connect it back it turns off on me so I'm assuming it has to do with a CCV issue what's your input thanks again
Lots of good info here, thanks Nathan! I may have a leaking DISA valve gasket... it seems "wet" on top of the manifold adjacent to the DISA. Gas mileage gone down about 5-10%, but not a P0147 in weeks.
I have a error “fuel trim bank 2 permissble range exceeded” and i also misfires on cylinder 4,5 and 6. i found a Big hole in the throttle housing. I guess i will try to replace it and see if it fixes the problem :)
Last year I replaced the intake with the boot on it and this year a mouse built a nest to the left of the dipstick by the injectors and now I hear a hissing somewhere in there, code is also p0174, hard idle sometimes, also engine failsafe came on once
GAH! I replaced the CCV and turns out it was new. The dipstick tube O-ring was missing and it only drove the STFT down a point or two to zero. The LTFT was still running over 14. Just a shot in the dark I replaced the MAF and instantly the LTFT went to zero and the 0171/0174 code is now gone.
Maybe you can guide me or any advice..03 bmw x5 3.0..code p174 and 171 I narrow the issue to the o2 sensors especially bank 2..barely reading..if I'm going down the hill without hitting the gas. All the o2s will read zero..once I stop only bank 1 will read correctly..
Great video very informative I'm going to start following you thanks for the good advice so much crap out there and you gave me some good stuff I have this car I got problems with and I think you nailed it right on the head thumbs up!
I have a question what size are the vacuum tubes behind the motor ? I replaced the secondary air pump tube cause I it had black tape holding it together mind you my car was running perfect fine before the swap and afterwards I replaced it so quick no hassle when I started my car *service engine soon* bank one too lean cylinder 4 misfire
Hey Nate I got a 1997 540i I keep getting check coolant level. So when I wait for the car to get cool a day or 2 there s pressure on the reservoir and when I open it the reservoir is full of coolant 🤔
Love the channel. Was wondering if you had advice for a stuck icv ? Thousands of videos about how to clean them but none with other trouble shooting tips if it isn't due to it being dirty. Any advice? Bad relay potentially?
hi. i have a e39 525i and when i press the gas with hudd Open i can hear a sucktion Noise . when i press it quickly i hear like a thump. it is ideling fine i changed the intake boot cracks. i guess im going to follow your instruktions just thought you might have experianced that Noise and know where it leaks. dont really hear it at idel but when giving gas its clear as if the tb leaks? cheers
hi nathan .need help with e46 m54 engine 325i. car pings under acceleration. have tried octane boosters nd no change at all.tried different gas bt no improvement. any ideas
Hey Nathan I just got a bmw 2002 e39 525i it had multiple codes I got most of them fixed and the only ones I got left but can’t seem to figure out are P0171 & P1083 which both are going towards bank 1 but I can’t find any more leaks I did a smoke test and nothing left to fix. Do you have any idea what I should look at? I heard to look into the O2 sensor but I’m not to sure.I would appreciate you help. Thanks.
Hey Nathan I have a 2000 323i I have check all of this posible vacum leaks found out the DISA wasn't working at all 0 vacum so purchased a brand new one. Works perfectly but my car still got same problem it's on limp mode wount rev past 3k car wount run more than 40mph what can it be I need help
I read about this some where - did you take out the dipstick doing the job? there will probably be something silly not plugged in or a vaccum leak created in the process.
Hi Nathan im driving an e39 with m52Tub25 engine, ive been having issue with performance of my car, the 1st issue is the throttle feel heavy 2nd when i engage my gear from P to R or D the rpm drops really low until the whole car vibrates and then stabilizes back, list of things i've changed camshaft inlet and exhaust -CcV valve complete set with all the hoses -vanos seals done, when changing the seals changed all the o-ring for the injectors. -disa is working properly as per your test method, new o ring for the disa -intake boot and boot from the throttle body is brand new -the hoses behind the manifold also changed all new -idle control valve is new -thottle body is new
I would say bad coil or crank sensor, those are 2 things that can go bad and not throw codes, also check number 6 spark plug hole for rainwater in it, the e39's love to do that
+Nathan's DIY Garage i was suspecting the coil too, any way we can check if a coil is back, checked cylinder 6 no sign of rain water, i,ve not changed the crank sensor let me try changing it and see.
Hey. Superb video. I have strange problem with short fuel trims. My engine is BMW M54B30. On bank 1 i got +25-28%, but on bank 2 it is ok 0 to 5%. I know that my oxygen sensor after cat on bank1 is dead. Is this can affect on fuel trims? MAF is working, I checked rubber hoses and there is no cracks. Help please. Thanks.
The oil dipstick o-ring can allow unmetered air to enter the engine. This causes a lean condition. That causes fuel trim correction and sometimes, lean misfires. If it's sucking air, it's a vacuum leak.
After all..........GODDAMMIT BMW & BMW engineers God Dammit BMW brand///// Nice video and Good job, it was very interesting. Thank you ////////////////////
I need help . My BMW 525i 2002 turns on really smooth but once I drive it it starts Shaking really bad and loses power on acceleration . I replaced the spark plugs and cheked the ignition coils and they work , then what would the problem be ? Ive read comments and some people say it could be the o2 sensors , what do you think ?
+Nathan's DIY Garage I just found out the mechanic that did the maintenance service broke 1 spark plug and I just replaced it and it doesn't shake anymore and it runs smoothly , but still think it's a good idea to get the icv cleaned cuz I feel like it needs a lil more power while running
+danekeeper1 lol no problem, but you were right about the MAF causing lean codes, also a burnt valve could also cause this, also the IVC dirty and stuck open can go completely lean.
On my E53 I have a small hooked hose that is attached to nothing where it hooks. the hook is in the vicinity of the dipstick. Any idea what that is and where it should be attached?
The vaccum hoses going to the back of my intake from my secondary air are cracked to shit so bad that the backpressure vale was laying on the starter any idea how to route all that?
hmm... i wll check it thanks. my x3 m54 throws p0174. i just wonder if there is vacuum leak why it shows only 1 bank and why engine cap doesnot suck air inside - seems it works normal. but car came from usa and i cannot know what has been done to it. hystory says nothing about vacuum problems. i also had crankshaft p.s. problem wich solved after reinstalling it 3 times using 2 different sensors. p0035, p 174 not only p174 is left.
B-Roc Dolan That's not an uncommon issue on the E46. I think a lot of people believe the fuel pump is good as long as it's running so the don't check it or the fuel pressure.
My diagnosis is throwing these same codes (also says it probably is vacuum leak) but to me it seems like I have crap in the fuel line or something fuel related. All started when the weather started getting below freezing. First it started lurching and wouldn't accelerate if I didn't warm it up. Later it wouldn't stay started (first start up of day) and 'engine failsafe' light came on. Took it all apart and put it back together seemed better. Yesterday after driving for awhile it kept dying everytime I came to a stop, as long as I was driving it was fine, no noises nothing funny but dies at idle......
Jose Nambo left side, under the car, take off the plastic cover and the regulator and filter are one unit. It's a cheap fit but auto parts stores won't carry it.
Would you know why my car idles so poorly it idles from 1k to 2.5k rpm and once pressing the gas it gets worst I recently changed my intake boot lower and upper what can be the problem ??
+gabriel cabrera Idle air control valve is probably stuck, you need to clean it and make sure the valve inside is free, i did a video awhile back on it , you can search my channel for ICV and you will find it
new to bimmer world first 1999 bmw 323i 2.5L have p1188 code and p0170 cade runs ok but goes like into limp and no pep after engine light come on dash going to do a smoke test tomorrow and see if any vaccum leaks appear any where oil leak on valve cover may have one there what's your thoughts please
With all these potential leaks and crack besides spraying it is there some kind of silicon spray you can put on the rubber boot to keep it moisturize so is less likely to crack because im tired of replacing that shit man. Good Info Bro
+CoolinKofi Well i think the heat from the engine is what does it in and people not being careful removing items, combined with possible bad engine mounts that could rip the boot, this is another reason why i do not like running a ccv since it takes away soo many of these possible problems.
+CoolinKofi I use the Werth product from the dealership...It is a really good product for the body seals and for keeping the oh my god expensive convertible top seals fresh and plump, the biggest problem with hoses is the hydrocarbon deteriorates them from inside then we have heat that cooks them but if you keep grit and oil off the outside it helps......just water washing mild detergent helps a lot of engine cleaners are very caustic and I avoid them....
Man I’m stuck! I keep getting a CC Plausibility, Ideal speed (leakage air) error code. So far a pro shop has done a smoke test with no luck or found any leaks, the Idle control was replaced, I replaced the o2 sensors. I can’t find any cracks or leaks in any of the hoses. The car runs and idles fine, but I have been getting bad gas mileage. Please any help is greatly appreciated!
I got a vacum leak on my n55 bmw x1 .took them a week to find it ! then they told me to come back in 4 days because we are waiting for the vacum hose to arrive .then when the part arrivedl they said ok we will book you for next month for the instalment . hahaha . this all happened at newmarket canada . is this common every where ???
have an bmw e39 1998 m52 520i when on cold start the rpm goes up and down like it gon turn off if you dont hit the gas pedal and the accleration si not constant its good when the car is cold but when it is hot or driven more the accleration is sluggish not enough power but sometimes the power comes back and goes away again no engine light no nothing just not enough power it feels like the car is heavy like a army tank haha i dont know how to explain it better please help please
Great videos Nathan! I have an e46 that has a problem with "spitting and sputtering" on a cold start(10 hours or so). I've pretty much been through any vacuum problem and fixed them. Any ideas?
really good explanation, now I know what my 325i is going thru, I think it may be the disa valve cause I hear a big vacuum leaks coming out from there and also when I spray carb cleaner the rpm's go up and it idles better.
yeah I actually did, it was the dias valve little door that was broken and was causing the vacuum leak. I just went to pick a part and got one. what's wrong with yours?
Don't waste time and money replacing all these parts. Buy a cheap smoke test machine on ebay. You can then just replace the parts that you know are leaking for sure. Has Nathan done a video on smoke test machines ?
So even if you find the issues replace everything is made of plastic , so basically everything that is under the hood 😂 what a stupid garbage cars , BMWs are hot garbage
SO GOOD that you gave a clear view of what it looks like under the inlet manifold! It's been very hard to find that anywhere... Great stuff, and thank you
Just do a leak test with a cigar. All you need is a cigar, a glove , and a 7$ syphon pump from harbor freight. The smoke came from my disa valve, I replaced it and now it’s good.
Did the diss cause the last to cylinder misfire lean code?
@@Everybodyshinetogether1 I had lean codes for both banks but no misfire. if you have misfire, try switching the spark plugs/and or coils to see if the code for the cylinder changes. if it does, it is likely an issue with that plug/coil.
This is a excellent video for E46 owners. I am going to hit all the areas at one time when I remove the intake.
Gotta be my favorite channel Nate. I love bmws more than anything. Ive had an e36 328 convertible, bought my dream car a e24 6 series manual, I have two 5 speed manual e53s and 3 different e39s a 540i, 525i stick, and a 528i. Thank you so much for this info you give us you've really brought my dreams of success and getting a shop going to a very feasable possibility, I hope to one day return the favor to you thanks brother.
Adopt me
This just saved my ass! Love how you don’t milk the video for watch time. Straight to the point 👍
My 2001 X5's rough idle turned out to be the most-easily-accessible component-- the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, which sits just above the air filter housing. Idling rough, and I started to dig in to the various things shown in this and other videos.
On a whim, I disconnected the MAF, started the vehicle and it is running smooth as silk now!
New replacement MAFs are spendy. I found a used one on eBay for far less. Worth a shot for the price I paid,
I gotta say hands your channels been one of the best in helping me diagnose all my simple issues and how to do yourself vids. Should come on down get my E39 running great I’ve spent so much money on half ass mechanics it’s sad what’s to bad is the dealer could of had it done at the amount I’ve spent and still runs very and sounds loud (fan ) any idea what I can do
My little runner has 172k miles on it.
I know it needs a new secondary air pump, so it's next on the list of new parts right off the bat.
Here's what happens...
I'll get in and it starts immediately, runs smooth at start, lots of clean power all the way up until it gets warm from sitting at lights or at a drive through. After this point, i've noticed that the acceleration feels 'muddy' and it sounds differently in the 'tone' i've learned while driving it.
When it gets like this, i have to take the RPM way up to at least 4k to 5k to feel like i'm 'blowing' it out, then it runs fine afterward, until i have to stop at another light of leave it idling for any length of time. Other than this issue, it runs perfectly.
I've missed something somewhere and i'm just not sure what to fix, rebuild or just outright replace. Here's what i've replaced so far so it's known and possibly narrow it down. I've installed the BAFX bluetooth OBD II gadget so i can keep a better eye on temps, intake and all the other stuffs i can readily see as i'm driving... i'm just stumped to be honest of what's causing this.
NOTE: when it does this, when i get back home the front fan will kick on and there's a really strange possibly 'electrical or rubber' smell coming from the engine bay. When it does this, from a cold start again, i have to tach it up and it'll clear out and be fine until as described before it warms up. The car seems to love the cold weather more than the warmer weather. The DISA valve maybe...? I just don't know... I'm still learning this vehicle step by step. (literally, piece by piece...) lol
Replaced parts and/or rebuilt parts so far:
*fuel pump
*fuel filter
*lower hose with OEM coolant sensor
*upper hose to expansion tank
*expansion tank
*thermostat
*water pump
*rebuilt the VANOS
*K&N cold air intake (the proper one designed for the 3 series)
*valve cover gasket
*fan shroud
When it's not doing this, the power is ALL there and a blast to drive. There isn't any smoke from the exhaust or the engine bay that's noticeable that i've ever seen.
I'll get a misfire code from time to time but, not really all that often. The secondary air pump is really the only code that will pop up, code wise.
Guys (and girls) I just don't know where to look to fix what appears to be a minor problem and i've already replaced most of everything off hand i can think of realistically. I love driving this car but, there is definately something wrong with it. I'm on a limited income but, it's worth it to me to find and fix whatever is causing this. I'm planning on giving it to my 17 year old daughter eventually but, i have to have everything working perfectly before i hand it over to her first.
Thank you for your inputs and suggestions on this matter... all of them are accepted and MUCH appreciated. I'm sincerely at a loss here and don't know what else to do...
No one focuses enough on the break booster line to manifold behind Throttle body. I just put my M52Tu back together after doing CCV, ICV, and those two plastic coolant/heater pipes. Well I go to start the car and it runs like a bag of spanners, and NO power brakes. Obviously I broke that connector to the line.
looking at 5:30 - is it possible to pull out 90 deg elbow connector and plug new one in without manifold removal?
I'd love to not have to pull the entire manifold again. But then how do your route the hose?
Oh man. I'm gutted i gotta do it all again.
Replacing that elbow connector at back of manifold for brake vacuum should be standard practice everytime you remove a manifold, regardless of whether yours is broken. We know how brittle the plastics get. Pay the $10 and avoid the heartache of cracking it during installation of manifold, only to find out when you start her up that you got a massive vacuum leak, no power brakes, and you cant reach the busted part, and you're starting again.
ask me how I know..
Thank you finally a detailed visual explanation of our dreaded vacuum codes I've checked all hoses and Dias valve oring and boots changed so now fuel line and behind the manifold is tonight's job thanks
Christina Garcia
Does anybody have blueprints of the engine of all the vacuum seals connected to the manifold?
In this video you show a vacuum line on top the fuel rail that is cut. Does that go down under the to the nipple on the ccv cone? The diagram i have shows the line coming from the EGR pump going to that line. Where would the nipple on the gold egr pump go to?
Great video
I got a P017 and P0174 on my 2007 BMW 530i. I get high fuel trims at idle that immediately go away once I go to a higher rpm. Fuel trims implied a vacuum leak. I did a smoke test and I could not find a leak. Do you guys have any ideas what it could be?
Thanks Nathan. Always have great info to help out the DIYer
Saved thousands watching your videos. Keep up the great work
This video is very helpful. I can hear a vacuum leak around what you were calling the “vacuum log”. And I’m also getting a constant cyl. 5 misfire with fuel cutoff. Ive swapped around coil packs and spark plugs and it stays the same. Could my “vacuum log” be leaking only at the cylinder 5 intake port?
Thank you so much best informational BMW P0 71 information video I’ve seen
Can you do some more on 2003x5 3.0i v6 ABS LIGHTS ANS SERVICE ENGINE LIGHTS, I’ve learned so much from your videos!!! Saved me 1000$ of dollars, now I just do it myself !! Thanks!!!!!!!!!
great video I hustle replace ccv all hose but I still get running rich code I was getting small leak code
first of all I'd like to say thank you Nathan for all your hard work and providing us with these videos very helpful. my question is i have a bmw x5 3.0si 2008. i just did the valve cover gasket and replaced eccentric sensor too. during my repairs and waiting for parts for delivery I left my car exposed the night before it rained and a ton of water got inside not in the engine because I had a completely plastic cover but I'm assuming it was a lot of damage to the back part of my engine everything else was completely lost I had a little bit of water maybe about an inch inside my ebox but now after I replaced and put everything back together my car has some sort of it shaking between 1500 RPM and 2000 RPM and sometimes it stalls or turns off on me I disconnected the air mass sensor meter that way it works better but for some reason everytime I connect it back it turns off on me so I'm assuming it has to do with a CCV issue what's your input thanks again
Nathan, your channel and vids are awesome.
Hopefully I manage to find my vaccum leak now but if not, you've earned a sub either way. Cheers!
is the vacuum line at 0:36 comming from the fuel filter (fuel pressure regulator in fuel filter ). is that a m52tu or m54?
i think that goes to the rear of the intake by the solenoid
This is great i been trying to figure out a vacume leak on my 328i. Thanks so much.
Lots of good info here, thanks Nathan! I may have a leaking DISA valve gasket... it seems "wet" on top of the manifold adjacent to the DISA. Gas mileage gone down about 5-10%, but not a P0147 in weeks.
Brilliant video Nathan, many thanks king 🙏
I have a error “fuel trim bank 2 permissble range exceeded” and i also misfires on cylinder 4,5 and 6. i found a Big hole in the throttle housing. I guess i will try to replace it and see if it fixes the problem :)
Last year I replaced the intake with the boot on it and this year a mouse built a nest to the left of the dipstick by the injectors and now I hear a hissing somewhere in there, code is also p0174, hard idle sometimes, also engine failsafe came on once
GAH! I replaced the CCV and turns out it was new. The dipstick tube O-ring was missing and it only drove the STFT down a point or two to zero. The LTFT was still running over 14.
Just a shot in the dark I replaced the MAF and instantly the LTFT went to zero and the 0171/0174 code is now gone.
It seems like i went so long without MAF problems on any car and not it seems its getting to be a common issue
Maybe you can guide me or any advice..03 bmw x5 3.0..code p174 and 171 I narrow the issue to the o2 sensors especially bank 2..barely reading..if I'm going down the hill without hitting the gas. All the o2s will read zero..once I stop only bank 1 will read correctly..
Great video very informative I'm going to start following you thanks for the good advice so much crap out there and you gave me some good stuff I have this car I got problems with and I think you nailed it right on the head thumbs up!
I have a question what size are the vacuum tubes behind the motor ? I replaced the secondary air pump tube cause I it had black tape holding it together mind you my car was running perfect fine before the swap and afterwards I replaced it so quick no hassle when I started my car *service engine soon* bank one too lean cylinder 4 misfire
Thanks as always. Great help. I'm trying to diagnose a P1188 on a M52TU and this video gave me lots of ideas.
Hey Nate I got a 1997 540i I keep getting check coolant level. So when I wait for the car to get cool a day or 2 there s pressure on the reservoir and when I open it the reservoir is full of coolant 🤔
Love the channel. Was wondering if you had advice for a stuck icv ?
Thousands of videos about how to clean them but none with other trouble shooting tips if it isn't due to it being dirty. Any advice? Bad relay potentially?
I have a 2002 with a p0444 code any suggestions.
Thank you
hi. i have a e39 525i and when i press the gas with hudd Open i can hear a sucktion Noise . when i press it quickly i hear like a thump. it is ideling fine i changed the intake boot cracks. i guess im going to follow your instruktions just thought you might have experianced that Noise and know where it leaks. dont really hear it at idel but when giving gas its clear as if the tb leaks? cheers
hi nathan .need help with e46 m54 engine 325i. car pings under acceleration. have tried octane boosters nd no change at all.tried different gas bt no improvement. any ideas
Hey Nathan I just got a bmw 2002 e39 525i it had multiple codes I got most of them fixed and the only ones I got left but can’t seem to figure out are P0171 & P1083 which both are going towards bank 1 but I can’t find any more leaks I did a smoke test and nothing left to fix. Do you have any idea what I should look at? I heard to look into the O2 sensor but I’m not to sure.I would appreciate you help. Thanks.
Hey Nathan I have a 2000 323i I have check all of this posible vacum leaks found out the DISA wasn't working at all 0 vacum so purchased a brand new one. Works perfectly but my car still got same problem it's on limp mode wount rev past 3k car wount run more than 40mph what can it be I need help
I read about this some where - did you take out the dipstick doing the job? there will probably be something silly not plugged in or a vaccum leak created in the process.
Hi Nathan im driving an e39 with m52Tub25 engine, ive been having issue with performance of my car, the
1st issue is the throttle feel heavy
2nd when i engage my gear from P to R or D the rpm drops really low until the whole car vibrates and then stabilizes back,
list of things i've changed
camshaft inlet and exhaust
-CcV valve complete set with all the hoses
-vanos seals done, when changing the seals changed all the o-ring for the injectors.
-disa is working properly as per your test method, new o ring for the disa
-intake boot and boot from the throttle body is brand new
-the hoses behind the manifold also changed all new
-idle control valve is new
-thottle body is new
+Naren V Any codes?
+Nathan's DIY Garage unfortunately no codes :(
I would say bad coil or crank sensor, those are 2 things that can go bad and not throw codes, also check number 6 spark plug hole for rainwater in it, the e39's love to do that
+Nathan's DIY Garage i was suspecting the coil too, any way we can check if a coil is back, checked cylinder 6 no sign of rain water, i,ve not changed the crank sensor let me try changing it and see.
pm me on my facebook and ill give you a call and go over a few thing with you
..I have a 2002 BMW 530 ...and it started making the pump noise on passenger engine side ...any ideas??.. thank you
Hey. Superb video. I have strange problem with short fuel trims. My engine is BMW M54B30. On bank 1 i got +25-28%, but on bank 2 it is ok 0 to 5%. I know that my oxygen sensor after cat on bank1 is dead. Is this can affect on fuel trims?
MAF is working, I checked rubber hoses and there is no cracks.
Help please. Thanks.
Any idea for a code P1092 pre catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank 2 on a 06 BMW X5 3.0i
Only the lower injector o ring can cause a vacuum leak. Upper is pressurized, and will just leak.
The oil dipstick o-ring can allow unmetered air to enter the engine. This causes a lean condition. That causes fuel trim correction and sometimes, lean misfires. If it's sucking air, it's a vacuum leak.
Hey Nathan I found my e39 that hose from the ccv to the oil pan broke off. Could that cause a vacuum leak?
Yes
Very easy to understand, thanks.
After all..........GODDAMMIT BMW & BMW engineers God Dammit BMW brand/////
Nice video and Good job, it was very interesting. Thank you ////////////////////
What would cause a rough idle and a popping noise from the intake area at idle 00 bmw 323i
Sorry I’m late trust me replace your PCV system
Thanks, great vid!
I need help . My BMW 525i 2002 turns on really smooth but once I drive it it starts Shaking really bad and loses power on acceleration . I replaced the spark plugs and cheked the ignition coils and they work , then what would the problem be ?
Ive read comments and some people say it could be the o2 sensors , what do you think ?
sounds like the icv needs to be cleaned, does it have any codes? Its not the 02 sensors
+Nathan's DIY Garage yea I just got the codes :
P1345
P0300
P1349
P0492
P0491
P0128
P0300
+Nathan's DIY Garage I just found out the mechanic that did the maintenance service broke 1 spark plug and I just replaced it and it doesn't shake anymore and it runs smoothly , but still think it's a good idea to get the icv cleaned cuz I feel like it needs a lil more power while running
Good to hear you got it at least running smoothly
is the non return valve suppose to be loose like that ?
Very informative video... nicely done. Thank you
Good stuff! I've seen a few of your vids and you know your stuff! Subscribed
Hi guys ...does anyone know what is that noise on the left side by engine passenger side...it sounds like pump noise ???
Very good description. Thank you!
Thanks a bunch. a very thoughtful presentation
Would a vacuum leak cause the manifold to turn red
oh man messed up....commented in the video about T.U and m52 about the test ports on the back of the manifold....whoops another good vid Nathan.
+danekeeper1 lol no problem, but you were right about the MAF causing lean codes, also a burnt valve could also cause this, also the IVC dirty and stuck open can go completely lean.
IVC?
ICV Idle control valve , that was from my iphone i guess autocorrect flipped it around
oh ... you got me with that one....how about some driveline ,Guibo, differential vids? I'm always afraid to do differential work kind of scary.
i have a guibo and carrier bearing video up for a e46 but not the e39
On my E53 I have a small hooked hose that is attached to nothing where it hooks. the hook is in the vicinity of the dipstick. Any idea what that is and where it should be attached?
David Lenat if it's a hard plastic pipe that is the vent for the front diff, it don't hook to anything
Thanks!
What's the tube called that is connected to the intake boot and comes out that you said is coming for it to come out and leak?
The one lower down goes to the idle air control valve
The vaccum hoses going to the back of my intake from my secondary air are cracked to shit so bad that the backpressure vale was laying on the starter any idea how to route all that?
Did you find out?
hmm... i wll check it thanks. my x3 m54 throws p0174. i just wonder if there is vacuum leak why it shows only 1 bank and why engine cap doesnot suck air inside - seems it works normal. but car came from usa and i cannot know what has been done to it. hystory says nothing about vacuum problems. i also had crankshaft p.s. problem wich solved after reinstalling it 3 times using 2 different sensors. p0035, p 174 not only p174 is left.
Yea on the crank and cam sensors you have to use the oem , the china sensors will not turn off the light
Bad fuel pump set these codes off for me. Wasted hours trying to find a air intake leak
B-Roc Dolan That's not an uncommon issue on the E46. I think a lot of people believe the fuel pump is good as long as it's running so the don't check it or the fuel pressure.
Can the fuel pump cause codes like Fuel trim bank 1 and 2 control limit?
Hmongkie Yang did you figure out the issue?
My diagnosis is throwing these same codes (also says it probably is vacuum leak) but to me it seems like I have crap in the fuel line or something fuel related. All started when the weather started getting below freezing. First it started lurching and wouldn't accelerate if I didn't warm it up. Later it wouldn't stay started (first start up of day) and 'engine failsafe' light came on. Took it all apart and put it back together seemed better. Yesterday after driving for awhile it kept dying everytime I came to a stop, as long as I was driving it was fine, no noises nothing funny but dies at idle......
dave walters
Hi mate I got the same problem as you started yesterday
Fire vid
I have an 2001 530i with the M54 engine. Do you know where the fuel pressure regulator is located?
Jose Nambo left side, under the car, take off the plastic cover and the regulator and filter are one unit. It's a cheap fit but auto parts stores won't carry it.
Great video's thanks for the help... appreciated!
Any help please code p1083 p0171 p1342 p1343 p1345
Would you know why my car idles so poorly it idles from 1k to 2.5k rpm and once pressing the gas it gets worst I recently changed my intake boot lower and upper what can be the problem ??
+gabriel cabrera Idle air control valve is probably stuck, you need to clean it and make sure the valve inside is free, i did a video awhile back on it , you can search my channel for ICV and you will find it
Nathan's DIY Garage
What size vacuum line do I need to buy for the 2000 e39?
+Roberto Sunga SAE 30R7 3/8 fuel line works perfect and you dont even need a clamp on the rear of the intake with it.i bought it at oreilleys
Thank you for all of your input sir
Thanks for valuable information
new to bimmer world first 1999 bmw 323i 2.5L have p1188 code and p0170 cade runs ok but goes like into limp and no pep after engine light come on dash going to do a smoke test tomorrow and see if any vaccum leaks appear any where oil leak on valve cover may have one there what's your thoughts please
With all these potential leaks and crack besides spraying it is there some kind of silicon spray you can put on the rubber boot to keep it moisturize so is less likely to crack because im tired of replacing that shit man. Good Info Bro
+CoolinKofi Well i think the heat from the engine is what does it in and people not being careful removing items, combined with possible bad engine mounts that could rip the boot, this is another reason why i do not like running a ccv since it takes away soo many of these possible problems.
+CoolinKofi I use the Werth product from the dealership...It is a really good product for the body seals and for keeping the oh my god expensive convertible top seals fresh and plump, the biggest problem with hoses is the hydrocarbon deteriorates them from inside then we have heat that cooks them but if you keep grit and oil off the outside it helps......just water washing mild detergent helps a lot of engine cleaners are very caustic and I avoid them....
thanks danekeeper1 ill look into these options bro very helpful these bmws are a labor of love. i love it and hate it at the same time lol
+danekeeper1 Is that product a spray, or are you talking about Gummy Pledge?
this is just using any carb cleaner to find leaks
Man I’m stuck! I keep getting a CC Plausibility, Ideal speed (leakage air) error code.
So far a pro shop has done a smoke test with no luck or found any leaks, the Idle control was replaced, I replaced the o2 sensors. I can’t find any cracks or leaks in any of the hoses. The car runs and idles fine, but I have been getting bad gas mileage.
Please any help is greatly appreciated!
Could be a vanos
I got a vacum leak on my n55 bmw x1 .took them a week to find it ! then they told me to come back in 4 days because we are waiting for the vacum hose to arrive .then when the part arrivedl they said ok we will book you for next month for the instalment . hahaha . this all happened at newmarket canada . is this common every where ???
Yes lol, nothing more money sucking than a bmw dealeship
+Nathan's DIY Garage thanks for the reply .good thing is im covered .
Where are u located?
Is it ok to blow smoke into the system like Scotty did?
+dhalsim1 It wont hurt it but i like to inspect possible leak places so you can fix a potential problem before it happens
have an bmw e39 1998 m52 520i when on cold start the rpm goes up and down like it gon turn off if you dont hit the gas pedal and the accleration si not constant its good when the car is cold but when it is hot or driven more the accleration is sluggish not enough power but sometimes the power comes back and goes away again no engine light no nothing just not enough power it feels like the car is heavy like a army tank haha i dont know how to explain it better please help please
I have a BMW but they 328Ci when it starts to warm up the motor shuts down does anybody know what the problem is
It's also a 2000 model
Check fuel related
hey
where is ur garage
I need help can you help me dear please 🙏🏻
man what if yo get only P0174 code ?
Probably still a vacuum leak somewhere
Thanks from Sweden E53 3,0i
Are you related to any of the band members of Ace Of Base?
its really annoying how many different possibilities there can be to find that vacuum leak
Great videos Nathan! I have an e46 that has a problem with "spitting and sputtering" on a cold start(10 hours or so). I've pretty much been through any vacuum problem and fixed them. Any ideas?
+Joshua Moffett It could be vanos seals, spark plugs or the cold start valve could need to be cleaned
really good explanation, now I know what my 325i is going thru, I think it may be the disa valve cause I hear a big vacuum leaks coming out from there and also when I spray carb cleaner the rpm's go up and it idles better.
Hey did you find out where ur vacuum leak was?
yeah I actually did, it was the dias valve little door that was broken and was causing the vacuum leak. I just went to pick a part and got one. what's wrong with yours?
I think somebody got a buck at 1:07and at 2:24 and 2:42 hot damn son a herds movin through
Don't waste time and money replacing all these parts. Buy a cheap smoke test machine on ebay. You can then just replace the parts that you know are leaking for sure. Has Nathan done a video on smoke test machines ?
dipstick ok....toooob not ok....surely tube?
An oil leak is a vacuum leak on a BMW...good to know.
are p0170 and p0173 codes potentially vacuum leaks also? god this car is driving me around the fucking twist
I used a scan code and I got 2882 ,2883 code that
says mixture preparation bank 1 & 2.anyone knows
what possibly wrong and need to change please?
Bring you my BMW so you can fix it
Was I hearing gunfire in the background?!?
So even if you find the issues replace everything is made of plastic , so basically everything that is under the hood 😂 what a stupid garbage cars , BMWs are hot garbage
Just now i have those 2 codes can not be ahead of my bimmer