As a new KTM Duke 390 (2017) owner, I've found your channel to be an absolute goldmine of useful information. Thank you for taking the time and effort to make these vids for us, much appreciated =)
My 2015 390 Duke owner's manual, under chain adjustment, states: "Lean the motorcycle on the side stand." The 5-7mm gap spec (also in my manual), then, is relative to the bike on the side stand, static weight being on the rear suspension. Contrary to the poster's comments, the chain will have LESS slack--i.e., a larger gap, by KTM's measuring method--when the bike is on the side stand as compared to a rear stand (which removes the suspension factor). For instance, on my bike, with my suspension setup, there is a 2-3mm difference in the gap when measured on the side stand vs. the rear stand, the gap being greater on the side stand--i.e., less slack in the chain. That difference is significant given the small 5-7mm spec range: if someone adjusts their chain to a 5mm gap when on a rear stand, the result could be an 8mm gap on the side stand, meaning the chain would be too tight! Moreover, the difference between measuring the gap from the main bottom surface of the swingarm vs. the bottom edge of the lip is about 4mm--also significant (almost double the spec range). So the measurement should be taken from the bottom edge of the lip to the top edge of the chain when the chain is pushed toward that lip.
The only manual zi could get pdf I printed out that may be European The app manual doesn't work, in fact app doesn't. 250 3rd gen duke. Manual says raise in rear stand. 5 to 7mm, arrows again pointing to the gap but nothing on swing arm to indicate spot or distance. The shop just did it on ground held upright and didn't measure it at all 😢. Definitely says use tear wheel lift though. Boys in shop may well be doing (very very sloppily ) what was recommended before? Although they measured nothing. Never seen chain adjustment recommended on ground before? Would love some clarity for when I get my padock stand. I would stick a centre stand on it if I could 😢
From my Duke 200 2012 Manual: - Lean the motorcycle on the side stand. - Shift gear to neutral. - In the area after the chain sliding guard, press the chain upward toward the link fork and measure chain tension (5-7mm)
Hi! One more subscriber here. Great channel with lots of tips of DIY. No, not flattering words. Love to treat well my bike and love this moto: 'if you want things right, do it yourself'. I clean my chain every 2500k and lubricate each 500k, just a quick passing. I use very thin oil from sewing machines and the result is top notch! cheers
Just adjusted my RC390 today for the first time! seems it was somewhat rather slack but all good now, luckily I've been cleaning and lubing it every month and a bit so hopefully lasts a while, will be subbing though rather liked your approach to doing things
Great news, on all fronts. Lack of lube when it’s needed will kill a chain very quickly, especially after riding in the wet so good to keep an eye on it. Skäl. David
I just took delivery of a brand new 390 Duke and the chain slack is seriously too slack. I read through the online manual and with my head still back in the bikes of yesterday ( and the day before) I just did not understand the process. Your video here brought me up to date with the KTM chain slack method and I am so very pleased I chanced upon it. Have a big ol' "like" and I have sub'd.
Great vid mate. Got my 2015 duke a couple of years ago. Hasnt done that many kays since i got it though. Gotta sort the chain tension out tomorrow after i give it a nice oil clean. Was gonna use degreaser so cheers for that 🤣
Mine is a 2017. From the KTM Duke Repair Manual 2017 13.5.5 Checking Chain Tension Preparatory Work - Raise the motorcycle with the rear lifting gear What year is yours?
To lube a chain correctly remove it. Put it in a small tray and add: Axel grease mixed with gasoline. Soak for 10 minutes then remove and let dry. Job done. It works well and piss on the o-ring BS. They are made of a rubber type that won't melt with petrol on them. Now the chain has good grease every where. Repeat every service.
Being nearly 77 years old, I have no need to buy tools. (because I still have, thousands of dollars' worth of Snap On tools- bought while I worked as a Motorcycle Mechanic in Ottawa, Ontario, from the winter of '68 to the early '70s. My tools, are now in a public storage facility- I have to ride there, to get them- and I am not permitted to work on my bike, there. (I should mention- here, that I was hired as a mechanic, because I had brought a Triton,(Triumph/Norton) back from the U.K., where I spent 4 years. I had ridden with the Rockers, while I was there. (So, I still 'do the ton', every chance I get.) But- never mind that, You did not answer my simple question!
@Aussie101 I'm going to say you have a switch issue. If the bike thinks its in gear then the safety switch will cut out when the kickstand is deployed. Same when you try and start it 'in gear' - will only work when the clutch lever is in. I would start with the gear position sensor and it's connections.
Awesome video! It's great to see things on my own bike! I'm probably in the similar situation. I've bought 1-yo bike with 5.200 miles on the clock. Watching the dirt of the chain I doubt previous owner has ever cleaned it :( Furthermore, my fuel consumption is like 124m/gal while general one (his) was 84m/gal which means he just was opening throttle to the end all the time...
Thanks. With regards fuel consumption he might just have been making slow short runs. Lots of things affect fuel consumption and much of it is acceleration not speed.
@@MotoMirius I noticed you’ve got ktm handlebar ends. Could you tell me how does it fit? The length of screw is proper to screw it to the end and let throttle being turned?
You would be right on any other bike. But not this one - KTM specify that the bike is raised from the ground to measure the slack and make the adjustment. You can do it on the ground, but then you are not going to be able to use the manufacturer tolerances.
Hey, just to confirm you are putting your scale BEHIND the little lip that’s on the swing arm to take the dimension right? I’m going to measure off the big main flat surface
This video helped me out a great deal thanks a lot and keep up the good work, all the other ktm videos are predominately in Indian 😂 I don’t speak Indian so that’s no good to me 😂
@@MotoMirius if you could do one on wheel alignment that would be a godsend 😂 since tightening my chain I’ve knocked it out of line, tried my hardest to get it all spot on and now I’m getting weird feedback vibration that wasn’t there before from my back wheel, making me very paranoid lol
@@Kingrizz69 Sounds like a good idea. With regards the vibration, try loosening the chain a little and see if it goes away - sometimes chain adjustment is more art than science.
@@MotoMirius yeah I’ve since tried that and it sorted the weird feedback problem out and I also aligned my wheel properly, now my abs is playing up… I see where ktm gets the nickname “keep taking money” comes from now 😂 thanks for the advice though mate 👍
It's the method recommended by some chain manufacturers. Cheaper and better for the environment and the chain seals than aerosol products which exist mainly to extract money from your wallet.
@@abegaz9582 You can - if you are confident that it won't cause any damage to or swelling of the seals (old style chains never had this issue). Oil works almost as well and has the advantage of lubricating instead of stripping out lubrication.
@@MotoMirius currently my bike runs a plane chain with no o rings so I can still use kerosene ..but I've heard that kerosene is soft and isn't hard on o ring chains like fuel or brake parts cleaner ... But since the Duke and the RC has been launched in our country ..if I do upgrade to one of those I'll definitely try to apply what you've said to me or any other bike that run an o ring chain.. I'm from Ethiopia btw 🇪🇹 ; that's on the horn of Africa.... That's to remind you that you're video has reached different countries that you probably don't know about ...so thanks for sharing ..I'll make sure to subscribe
@@abegaz9582 Thanks, much appreciated. The problem is that chain manufacturers experiment with different plastics for the seals, so whilst it may have been true that kerosene (which by the way can be different products) there is no guarantee for all current and future chains from all different manufacturers. I use kerosene type products for cleaning off oil - but not on chains - too expensive to risk for no reason.
Hey , really informative. I just wanted to know how often or after how much km should we adjust chain. My Duke 250 i feel my ride is bumpy almost after every 1000 kms . Is it due to chain alignment? Thank
Hi, there is no rule as to how often - you need to do it when it needs it. Chain stretch is caused by wear in the link pivots and most wear is caused by lack of lubrication. Some argue sealed chains need little or no lubrication but I remain unconvinced. If the chain is going rusty or the chain looks bumpy instead of straight then it needs to be looked at.
It would have been a lot simpler if ktm would have just given the chain slack like the rest Instead of this point on the swing arm. In the past i have set my chain tension a bit too tight due to misinterpretation of the diagram.
@@MotoMirius I now tend to keep the chain a bit slack. This 5 to 7mm of chain slack isn't very practical. There should have been atleast 10mm of range in the play in my opinion.
It's always good practice to be slightly too loose than too short. But once there is some wear on the chain it's relatively academic anyway @@shonith91
Love your videos m8. Its super helpful. After replacing chain and sprockets my rear brake feels like it changed in the way that it has too much free travel ( takes long before rear brakes start to grab ) . Could i have done something wrong or do I just adjust the free travek..
Rear brake is hydraulic - chain and sprockets, rear wheel adjustment, these have no impact on the the rear brake. I would suggest that it's just a coincidence that you've noticed it - likely because you are paying more attention to the rear of the bike. Check how much pad you have left and your fluid level.
Thanks. Clean oil is normally best. If you have a standard chain then it is possible to use used, but not so recommended if you have rubber seals in the chain.
There are plenty of ways to improvise depending on what you are trying to do and what you have to hand - but doing so in a way that is safe and does not damage the bike is much harder. Given that you can buy stands quite cheaply, that would be my suggestion - I actually use cheap stands for things like the chain - they bend alarmingly and I don't like them but they work. One day I will buy a good, quality stand for this but since I do any serious work with an Abba stand, there are always other things to spend money on.
You could use engine oil to clean it, I wouldn't recommend using it as a lubricant as it will get very messy as it will get flung off very quickly. Skäl David
Just to make sure I fully understand how you're getting your chain measurement, you're measuring roughly 10-12 mm from the bottom flat part of the swing arm and 5-7mm from the bottom lip part of the swing arm?
That sounds about right but - just to be clear, this is not valve clearances, chain tension is not in real life measured to the mm except perhaps when you have just fitted a new chain and sprocket set. Looser is more important than being too tight, so I will always err on being at the looser end of any measurement, so I advise not being too concerned about getting it exactly to the mm.
The correct way is to measure from the top/underneath the swingarm like shown at 7:05? So I'm not measuring from the bottom of the side of the swingarm?
Exactly how this is measured is the subject of much debate between owners given that the factory diagram is open to interpretation. Once the chain has a little wear, this discussion (as with what is best oil and what tyres are best) becomes mostly academic given that only the tightest point in the chain is this measurement and all the rest of the chain is looser. A little too loose is better with chains than a little too tight so I would recommend erring slightly looser and you can acheive this by measuring from the lip and not the bottom of the swinging arm.
When it needs it. There is no time or mileage measure - it is largely a result of how well the chain is cared for - different bikes will have very different chain and sprocket life. If the chain is well cared for then it will be when the teeth on the sprocket start to wear.
Hi there, this is a great video, but just to clarify, the measurement of the chain is done while the bike is not on the side stand but on the lifting gear, which to my understanding will drive the rear wheel downwards and tighten the chain? Basically, if I think it is loose while on the side stand, that might not be a clear indicator, as it is supposed to be 5-7mm while on the lifting gear. Is that a correct interpretation?
Yes, rear wheel must be in the air, this is the point where the chain is under the most stretch - it is at the tightest position it will ever be when riding. So the measuring ensures that the chain will never be fully tight when riding - which places strain on the gearbox. Remember a little too loose is always better than a little too tight.
So you measure from behind the lip on the swing arm, or at the very front of that lip? Its a different measurement depending on which you choose and I've seen it done both ways.
Hi, this is a question many people argue about as KTM are not precisely clear - is it the bottom edge of the swinging arm or the top of the lip at the bottom of the swinging arm? My opinion is that this is not a good question - with a brand new chain, yes you can be very precise, but once the chain starts to wear you are trying to find the tightest spot and work from that - so the rest of the chain is looser and not to that spec, so the argument becomes pointless. Looser is better than tighter, so work towards 7mm and if you want to be very sure, do that to the top of the bottom lip of the swinging arm. Hope this helps! David
Thanks for the video. I might have missed something but I couldn’t get what the correct/acceptable length of 20 pins on the chain should be. 30.16 is bad and needs replacement, what would be a good/acceptable length?
Misread your question at first. 301.6mm is the maximum length before the chain needs to be changed. If it's less than that then it doesn't need to be changed - obviously if it's close to that then change it. Given you would change chain and sprockets it's a bit expensive to change it before it needs it.
I measure from the outside. There are huge arguments over this - all of which miss the point. Unless you have a brand new chain, there will always be a tight point which is where you must measure - but it is hard to know exactly which point is the tightest, and the rest of the chain is much more slack. My recommendation is not to lose sleep whether you do it from the bottom or the top of the lip.
Nice, thanks man! been looking for video about this for quite a while. One question, Did you measure the chain distance from the lip of the swing arm or from the bottom? It's kinda hard to tell from the camera perspective
Hello, found difficult to make out what you said. Was that motorcycle oil used to clean chain with brush? Additionally have you replaced the oil seal behind the front sprocket? Thanks for informative well presented clips.
Engine oil to clean the chain. It doesn't have to be anything specific. No I haven't changed the oil seal because it doesn't need changing. I frequently see people advising that the seal should be changed - but in most case the 'leakage' is just the chain oil thrown off the chain. Unless you have a sunny Sunday only bike where you can use a dry type lube then you should have oil 'leakage' off the front sprocket - if you don't you likely aren't putting enough lube on the chain.
@@MotoMirius thanks for this, will use engine oil to clean with toothbrush in future. Thanks too for insight regarding shaft seal. Greatly appreciated.
Hi Moto, is there any simple tool that we can put in between for the proper chain tension gap? The ktm plastic chain stretch / tension tool doesn't work on the duke 390?
Cut a small block of something such as wood that will be the right size - I often just use a piece of card with markings that I hold against the swinging arm. But don't over think it - chains wear unevenly and it's better to be a little too loose than a little too tight. With a little practice you can see by eye when it is right.
With any other bike you would be correct. But not with this one. Which is a massive bonus because the standard way can be very time consuming as you adjust, tighten axle, put it on the wheels, measure, put it back in the stand, loosen, adjust and repeat.
Great video. Just a quick question. My chain when tightened to the same setting each side seems to be misaligned when I use a laser or straight edge. It also wanders more when running on the stand when aligned with this method than the laser. Any ideas why?
It's not unknown for the markings to be misaligned. I tend to tweak the settings until I'm happy with them. There isn't any reason for the method to cause a change in the alignment but misalignment will be noticeable if you watch the chain running over the rear sprocket - and wear in the chain will make this more prominent.
Shouldn't you check the wear on the chain firt? This would save you the trouble of cleaning and ajusting the chain? I'm asking because i'm about to adjust mine and I'm not sure if I will have to replace the chain?
If you suspect you may need to change the chain then yes, by all means check that first. If you are regularly cleaning, oiling and adjusting the chain you ought to have a good idea if the chain is coming to the end of life. Skäl David
@@MotoMirius Thanks for your answer. So if the distance between the pins is greater than 301,6 mm you have to change the chain? Even though it is 1-2 mm over?
Thanks, I got a ktm 390 adventure and my chain is lose. My question is how to lift the back wheel? Can I buy any backend lift or do I need any special tools. Where on my bike is it safe to raise. In a shop where I live they have a lift you put under the bike and then It can raise the bike. Is it safe to lift my bike from The underside?
There are a number of different ways of lifting the bike. My preference is an Abba stand - largely because my rear stands are cheap and rubbish, but decent ones are used in many shops - its a fast and reliable way of lifting the back wheel. You can lift from under the bike, but you should remove the bottom fairing first. It's possible to lift it on the side stand by jacking up on the other side. With most lifts you need crack the rear axle loose and tighten it with the wheels on the ground - safety is important when lifting a bike.
Does a loose chain affect changing gears? My chain keeps getting loose after few days after i tighten it? I notice when it gets loose because the shifting seems weird and i miss 2nd or 3rs gear at times. When i tighten the chain back up the i never miss gears....why does the chain keep loosening? I just replaced the stock one and its loose already after a week of riding it. I tighten it with the wheels on the ground. Is that wrong?
Missing gears can cause shock loading on the chain, but most chain wear comes from lack of lubrication, so that shouldn't be an issue with a new chain. Gear changes should ideally be done with no load on the chain or gearbox so the chain would be mostly irrelevant to the change and the slipper clutch if you have one should assist - you might need to work on your technique a bit. But it could be that your issue is adjusting it on the ground - the tolerances quoted are for when the bike is in the air and the chain at maximum stretch - most bikes, the tolerances are for on the ground, but off road bikes need more play and KTM is mostly an offroad manufacturer at heart, so if you overtighten it then you can create stretch and you will damage the gearbox
I don’t recall what I used there. It may have been a brake cleaner. Obviously be careful with anything that could damage the tyre. Some people play safe with just dish soap but I’ve found tyres to be pretty resistant and I don’t often get oil on the tyre. Covering the tyre is of course the best method! Skäl. David
In practice, there is no guideline. It needs doing when it needs doing so you must inspect the chain frequently. Riding in the wet will mean lubing more often. Skäl. David
When doing chain tension - do you measure off of the lip of the swingarm or off of the body of the swingarm? This is such a controversial topic in these bikes. I wish KTM would've just provided a limit for allowable "chain play".
If we follow the KTM guidance exactly, it is from the top of the lip of the swinging arm lower edge, but I use the bottom of the swinging arm to ensure I don't overtighten the chain and in any case the thickness of the swinging arm lip is close to the chain play tolerance. But I don't believe the KTM engineers expected people to over analyse this or make it controversial since a chain will rarely wear evenly and guessing exactly which is the most tightest of the tight spots is pointless - internet arguments over this are between people who are not engineers. KTM have provided a limit for allowable chain play - 5-7mm. The only difference is unlike other manufacturers, they thoughtfully did so with the bike in the air so avoiding needing to drop it down onto the ground after every adjustment to confirm the measurement.
@@MotoMirius I'm still confused. When I set it to have an air gap of 5mm between the top of the chain and the lowest edge of the swingarm's lip - it feels too tight. It even makes screaching noise when I move the bike around if I set it like this. What actually feels more or less alright is when the top of the chain barely disappears behind the swingarm's lip if pushed up in a described location from the underneath. Which, surprisingly, is around 5mm from the non-visible surface of the swingarm..... I'm utterly confused here :-D Another internet battle is over whether the measurement is to the top of the chain or to the centre of the link 🤦♂
@@affinitystablepeanuts There are lots of internet battles - but none that interest me, and I won't get drawn into that type of time wasting. I assume you have the rear of the bike in the air and you are doing it at the tightest point on the chain. If yes, then you are setting it at the point of maximum stretch of the chain - at no other time will the chain get this taut. If when the bike is down on the ground you have a tight spot then you are doing something wrong, the chain is worn out or there is something else causing it. Bottom line - it's always better to set the chain slightly too loose than too tight, so if 10mm works for you, then set it there and that is the right setting.
@@MotoMirius cheers, David! I really appreciate the work you put into all this and the help of your channel. Please believe me I make no intentions to get you involved in any of online arguments! Rather just wanted to know your opinion on this topic. Very grateful for your videos, especially everything around 390 duke. Makes my life with this bike a lot easier :) Today I have re-done chain tensioning with the bike on the rear stand (as per manual) and I still have found that what feels like a correct tension is much less than what I get when tensioning as per 390 Duke's user manual. I totally agree with you on "too lose is better than too tight". So I have left it at that. In my case it's about only 1mm visible airgap between the top of the chain link and the bottom edge of the swingarm's lip, when the bike is on a rear stand and when pushing the chain up and looking from the side as per Duke Owner's Manual. Thank you again for all the informative and highly valuable videos and for finding the time to respond to my comments. Have a wonderful day!
Anywhere that sells metric tools. Second hand is always cheaper - avoid cheap new tools if you can as they will damage your bike. Try to buy at least good quality if you can't afford the best. Skäl David
Hi david. My Rc200 chain has a slight slack from the given measures is it the reason for chain slaping the slider in bumpy roads or some amount of chain slap is normal in bad roads
Because the swinging arm and the chain do not share the same pivot point, there will always be some offset which creates slack and tightness with extreme movement of the swinging arm. If you look at the chain on a dirt bike, it will always have more slack than a road bike because the swinging arm moves a bigger distance.
I just serviced my Bike at this dealer, I can barely tell they did anything at all and charged me almost $500 dollars. The receipt they gave me only showed basic checks but they claim they did every specified on the manual for the yearly service. I'm very skeptical of this.
If you've kept on top of your bike then you shouldn't find much difference in the bike from a service. The main spike in cost would be if they checked the valves as this is a time consuming job. I can't really comment on your service - there are great dealers and there are terrible dealers, I wouldn't take my bike to my closest dealer which is very close to me because I don't trust their work. These are reasons why I now do the work on my bike myself - it isn't hard to do so long you have at least some mechanical expertise and just work your way up to it. Of course if you have a new bike then selling price and warranty can make this a hard choice.
@@MotoMirius I feel exactly the same way. The dealer closest to me (10 minutes), I don’t trust their work after this time. Next time I will take it to another dealer 30 minutes away.
I have a question, the front part of the exhaust system( right where it starts at the front of the engine) looks kind of brownish, is there anything I can spray on it to prevent it from getting worse?
@@rolan2dr it's a mix of dirt and corrosion - the headers can get red hot when the bike is running. You can clean it off but it will come back. Some people paint with VHT exhaust paint or if it really bothers you, you could have the pipe coated with ceramic.
@@MotoMirius I have another question. My handlebars make a squeaky noise when turned right. What should I do? I have the universal joker spray the manual recommends.
If you are going to work on the bike you need to buy tools and I suggest buying a set. Buying individual tools is always a lot more expensive. Skäl. David
Hi there! I have been using the WD-40 motorbike chain cleaner and then their motorbike chain lube, are these ok? I can't seem to find Motorex products easily, even online for my area. Thanks!
I have much the same issue with Motorex - if I want it, I buy online. I would think it's OK but I'm not a massive fan. It's very convenient but expensive. A cheaper alternative is just to brush it down with engine oil then wipe that off - it will dissolve and dried grease and dirt, then lube it lightly.
@@MotoMirius ah understood thank you. Would any engine oil work? Or is there a one with ingredients I should look out for? I think brands I have most accessible are Castrol and Shell. Thanks again for the help
Hey ! Thank you for this helpful vid.. I have just few questions.. If i don't have that front stand holder.. Is there any difference if the bike is just on stand.. ? + You measure it when no-one is sitting on.. Soo when for example me - 80kg would sitting on.. It's gonna be much more tight... It's still ok to have this 0.5 - 0.7 cm there.. ? Or i should set it while sitting on it ? When i recieved bike from service first time.. The chain was much more free.. And it made weird sounds because of it.. so i tightened it and it's fine.. But those guys from service told me it can get damage for example when i hit some hole on street or if i would drive also some of my friend.. ? So what should be the tension in these case... ? Thank you a lot !
Hi, KTM have a different system to other bikes. You need a rear stand, no front stand. Then measure as it shows on the bike. No sitting on the bike. The correct tension ensures the suspension moves properly. Your weight affects the suspension settings not the chain tension. Skäl. David
People have been cleaning chains with oil since chains were invented. I guess you've never tried it? Much better than using a detergent that will also strip out the oils and grease from the sealing rings and from inside the rollers, accelerating wear on the chain. Just because a detergent spray is quick doesn't mean that it is better.
Hey there. Thanks for the info. One question. Are you measuring the slack from the flat, underside of the swingarn, or from the protruding edge of the outer face?
A common question. Unless you are measuring a brand new chain then it makes no difference since you will be measuring the tightest point, and the rest of the chain will be slacker. I recommend measuring from the underside as looser is always better than tighter and it is better for your chain and bearings life to err on the cautious side.
Hi there, when you measure the 5-7mm are you doing it from the lip of the swingarm to the chain or are you measuring from the slightly higher part behind the lip?
Hi, measurement is to the bottom of the swinging arm. The diagram can be confusing because the top arrow appears to point to the top of the lip - but the bottom arrow in that diagram points to the bottom of the chain - and it would be impossible to have 5-7mm clearance between the top of the lip and the bottom of the chain. But, it is important to remember that this is at the tightest point of the chain, not just a point in the chain (unless it is a new chain) and it's also important to remember that looser is better than too tight, so if you measure to the top of the lip, it will be better than doing it too tight. Hope this helps!
@@MotoMirius Yeah no I would only measure from the top of the chain to the swingarm because if we are going from the bottom of the chain to the swingarm then it would be too loose. From what I have gathered from your reply, it is that the best middle ground seems to be to measure from the top of the lip where the swingarm flattens out a bit. Thanks for your reply!
You should have edited and shown correctly adjusted chain for sure. Esp as they measure it differently. Here I got a new bike with reallt tight chain which i questioned and told itvwas meant to be like that. They talked 5 to 7mm but dealer boys didn't even know about measuring to the swing arm. No doubt I have already abused my chain in the 1300 km before I found proof. Oh you don't get a manual here. Its on an app I didn't want but doesn't work when downloaded. I had to get an eu one from web. Only one you can't download in I dia is the Indian one. 😢
The service and repair manual is available online from KTM in all countries. You will find the process is as described here. There is a diagram on the chain guard which shows the measurement. I can't comment on the 2024 Duke as this was made before that was released.
@@MotoMirius its not in India actually lol. Only from app which doesn't work. The service shop doesn’t have one and tighten chains like a bow thinking its 5-7mm play (think 2015 duke had that) many phone calls my complis highlighted lol. Its funny but its not 🙄 Os I have eu one but some diff as mine is meant to be e20 and its 3kg lighter 15 to 20 less in seat hight. Not sure if anytelse that makes a difference. But shop don't believe manual. Over filled it with oil too but wont accept that lol. They do whst they do which I very much doubt includes cleaning oil screens just hope it dd mean a nee filter on first service. Can you buy parts independently there. I was told only through dealership and one woman said shop had to do. Parts seem a difficulty full stop. Like my bike but regretting it. All the kids here moved to yamaha.
@@virupakshawalla5734 I didn't say it was in India lol, that was an example (because I've had many people in India complain that they have no access to things from KTM). I recommend that you find a new dealer or do it yourself.
@@MotoMirius I meant Indian manual not available India. Only on totally non functioning app. i am old and non mechanical but I will do the chain . I had to take oil out after service 🙄. Nice lads absolutely no idea what they are doing(they don'thave a manual at all btw). You can only get parts through them and none in this town. Lots of crashed bikes and ones waiting for parts. I wish I knew before but actually like the bike. Ps not Indian but in India. Told them Bajaj own half and treating Indians much worse than rest of the world.
Hi David, I don't have a stand yet but should be buying one soon. Can I do a chain adjustment without it? I tried lifting the seat up to extend the rear spring and appears to be at max extension already. I've had my new bike for about a month now and the measurement is less than zero mm. I have my new torque wrenches ready to go.
Hi, although the spring isn't compressed, it also isn't extended by the weight of the rear wheel. So long as you've been putting lube on the chain you are probably still good to go as the dealer should have checked the chain. Good luck with your new bike!
Ive used spray nine degreaser on my chain one time (unfortunately before i saw your video). I sprayed on a brush and scrubbed the chain. Is my chain screwed after one time of that? Ive gone over with water to clean anything degreaser off. Thanks
It’s because your chain is worn. Links will seize making it tighter in spots which will tend to increase wear elsewhere. Most common cause is lack of lubrication.
@@MotoMirius but i lubricated my chain on regular interval not sure wht could be the reason although my chain caught rusting will rusting create this problem?
@@rikki7663 It needs lubrication when it needs lubrication - not according to a schedule. If it has rust on it, this is a clear sign that it was not lubricated often enough. Riding in the rain after you've lubricated it can be enough for it to need lubricating again - depending on how much rain, how long ridden etc
@@MotoMirius my 2018 RC 390 says it’s just 90 Nm.. and why would the outside of my chain be getting a wear mark? It’s not real bad but I can see a shiny spot.
As a new KTM Duke 390 (2017) owner, I've found your channel to be an absolute goldmine of useful information. Thank you for taking the time and effort to make these vids for us, much appreciated =)
Glad to help!
My 2015 390 Duke owner's manual, under chain adjustment, states: "Lean the motorcycle on the side stand." The 5-7mm gap spec (also in my manual), then, is relative to the bike on the side stand, static weight being on the rear suspension. Contrary to the poster's comments, the chain will have LESS slack--i.e., a larger gap, by KTM's measuring method--when the bike is on the side stand as compared to a rear stand (which removes the suspension factor). For instance, on my bike, with my suspension setup, there is a 2-3mm difference in the gap when measured on the side stand vs. the rear stand, the gap being greater on the side stand--i.e., less slack in the chain. That difference is significant given the small 5-7mm spec range: if someone adjusts their chain to a 5mm gap when on a rear stand, the result could be an 8mm gap on the side stand, meaning the chain would be too tight! Moreover, the difference between measuring the gap from the main bottom surface of the swingarm vs. the bottom edge of the lip is about 4mm--also significant (almost double the spec range). So the measurement should be taken from the bottom edge of the lip to the top edge of the chain when the chain is pushed toward that lip.
that’s what my manual says as well thanks for clarifying
The only manual zi could get pdf I printed out that may be European The app manual doesn't work, in fact app doesn't. 250 3rd gen duke. Manual says raise in rear stand. 5 to 7mm, arrows again pointing to the gap but nothing on swing arm to indicate spot or distance. The shop just did it on ground held upright and didn't measure it at all 😢. Definitely says use tear wheel lift though. Boys in shop may well be doing (very very sloppily ) what was recommended before? Although they measured nothing. Never seen chain adjustment recommended on ground before? Would love some clarity for when I get my padock stand. I would stick a centre stand on it if I could 😢
From my Duke 200 2012 Manual:
- Lean the motorcycle on the side stand.
- Shift gear to neutral.
- In the area after the chain sliding guard, press the chain upward toward the link fork
and measure chain tension (5-7mm)
Good to see what they recommended on the early bikes, but the process is still the same.
Hi! One more subscriber here. Great channel with lots of tips of DIY. No, not flattering words. Love to treat well my bike and love this moto: 'if you want things right, do it yourself'.
I clean my chain every 2500k and lubricate each 500k, just a quick passing. I use very thin oil from sewing machines and the result is top notch! cheers
Awesome, thank you!
I Love your videos, getting into the motorcycling world is now much easier thanks to You!
Thank you and glad to help!
Gracias. Saludos desde Panamá.
Really detailed information, pleased to hear.
Just adjusted my RC390 today for the first time! seems it was somewhat rather slack but all good now, luckily I've been cleaning and lubing it every month and a bit so hopefully lasts a while, will be subbing though rather liked your approach to doing things
Great news, on all fronts. Lack of lube when it’s needed will kill a chain very quickly, especially after riding in the wet so good to keep an eye on it. Skäl. David
Really helpful! writing this comment with grease in my hands from adjusting my duke 200 chain.
Great stuff, well done! Skäl David
I just took delivery of a brand new 390 Duke and the chain slack is seriously too slack. I read through the online manual and with my head still back in the bikes of yesterday ( and the day before) I just did not understand the process. Your video here brought me up to date with the KTM chain slack method and I am so very pleased I chanced upon it. Have a big ol' "like" and I have sub'd.
That's very poor dealer service - should have been checked in the pre delivery inspection. But thanks, and good luck with it!
@@MotoMirius I have re-examined the bike with your video on my laptop and well... it's me and not the bike. Everything is as it should be. Oooops !
Well that’s good to hear!
Great vid mate. Got my 2015 duke a couple of years ago. Hasnt done that many kays since i got it though. Gotta sort the chain tension out tomorrow after i give it a nice oil clean. Was gonna use degreaser so cheers for that 🤣
Tighten the axle/spindle before tightening the adjusters back up
Great tutorial for those that don’t know, how’s the area doing?
Thanks Dave, always appreciated 👍. Doing well thanks, taking it easy. Skäl. David
In the Duke service manual it says lean bike on side stand to do chain adjustment. No need to get back wheel raised.
Mine is a 2017. From the KTM Duke Repair Manual 2017
13.5.5 Checking Chain Tension
Preparatory Work
- Raise the motorcycle with the rear lifting gear
What year is yours?
Not in my 2024 250 duke gen 3. Raise on rear lift but shop do it that way.
Best tutorial on TH-cam as you go into good detail, subbed to Channel btw 👍
Thanks very much BBG. Much appreciated 👍 Skäl. David
What a nice Guy. Thanks for your Information!
Any time! Thanks
To lube a chain correctly remove it.
Put it in a small tray and add:
Axel grease mixed with gasoline.
Soak for 10 minutes then remove and let dry. Job done.
It works well and piss on the o-ring BS. They are made of a rubber type that won't melt with petrol on them.
Now the chain has good grease every where. Repeat every service.
Works great for the old style chains.
Lovely, details were also cleared, cheers.
Thanks again. Much appreciated. Skäl. David
Being nearly 77 years old, I have no need to buy tools. (because I still have, thousands of dollars' worth of Snap On tools- bought while I worked as a Motorcycle Mechanic in Ottawa, Ontario, from the winter of '68 to the early '70s.
My tools, are now in a public storage facility- I have to ride there, to get them- and I am not permitted to work on my bike, there. (I should mention- here, that I was hired as a mechanic, because I had brought a Triton,(Triumph/Norton) back from the U.K., where I spent 4 years.
I had ridden with the Rockers, while I was there. (So, I still 'do the ton', every chance I get.)
But- never mind that, You did not answer my simple question!
Perhaps because I don't know what your question is?
@Aussie101 I've never worked on the gen 1's so it will depend on the questions!
@Aussie101 I'm going to say you have a switch issue. If the bike thinks its in gear then the safety switch will cut out when the kickstand is deployed. Same when you try and start it 'in gear' - will only work when the clutch lever is in. I would start with the gear position sensor and it's connections.
We need more of your videos please!!
Thanks. More will be coming soon!
@@MotoMirius I started changing engine oil for my duke 250 , by reference of your vlog. Thank you👍
Awesome video! It's great to see things on my own bike! I'm probably in the similar situation. I've bought 1-yo bike with 5.200 miles on the clock. Watching the dirt of the chain I doubt previous owner has ever cleaned it :(
Furthermore, my fuel consumption is like 124m/gal while general one (his) was 84m/gal which means he just was opening throttle to the end all the time...
Thanks. With regards fuel consumption he might just have been making slow short runs. Lots of things affect fuel consumption and much of it is acceleration not speed.
@@MotoMirius That is what I meant, acceleration. I’ve got 5 miles to work and 100% is city centre with traffic and lots of traffic lights..
@@MotoMirius I noticed you’ve got ktm handlebar ends. Could you tell me how does it fit? The length of screw is proper to screw it to the end and let throttle being turned?
Throttle should not reach to the end of the bars. Stock handlebars have bar ends.
You should always adjust then chain on the ground
You would be right on any other bike. But not this one - KTM specify that the bike is raised from the ground to measure the slack and make the adjustment. You can do it on the ground, but then you are not going to be able to use the manufacturer tolerances.
fantastic channel, thank you
Thanks, much appreciated
Hey, just to confirm you are putting your scale BEHIND the little lip that’s on the swing arm to take the dimension right? I’m going to measure off the big main flat surface
The measurement is between the top of the chain and the bottom of the swinging arm, so yes.
GREAT video thank you
Very welcome. Thanks
This video helped me out a great deal thanks a lot and keep up the good work, all the other ktm videos are predominately in Indian 😂 I don’t speak Indian so that’s no good to me 😂
Glad it helped and there should be some more videos coming soon - I've had a bit of a lull
@@MotoMirius if you could do one on wheel alignment that would be a godsend 😂 since tightening my chain I’ve knocked it out of line, tried my hardest to get it all spot on and now I’m getting weird feedback vibration that wasn’t there before from my back wheel, making me very paranoid lol
@@Kingrizz69 Sounds like a good idea. With regards the vibration, try loosening the chain a little and see if it goes away - sometimes chain adjustment is more art than science.
@@MotoMirius yeah I’ve since tried that and it sorted the weird feedback problem out and I also aligned my wheel properly, now my abs is playing up… I see where ktm gets the nickname “keep taking money” comes from now 😂 thanks for the advice though mate 👍
First time I saw someone clean chain with oil
It's the method recommended by some chain manufacturers. Cheaper and better for the environment and the chain seals than aerosol products which exist mainly to extract money from your wallet.
@@MotoMirius thx ..but what about kerosene?
@@abegaz9582 You can - if you are confident that it won't cause any damage to or swelling of the seals (old style chains never had this issue). Oil works almost as well and has the advantage of lubricating instead of stripping out lubrication.
@@MotoMirius currently my bike runs a plane chain with no o rings so I can still use kerosene ..but I've heard that kerosene is soft and isn't hard on o ring chains like fuel or brake parts cleaner ... But since the Duke and the RC has been launched in our country ..if I do upgrade to one of those I'll definitely try to apply what you've said to me or any other bike that run an o ring chain.. I'm from Ethiopia btw 🇪🇹 ; that's on the horn of Africa.... That's to remind you that you're video has reached different countries that you probably don't know about ...so thanks for sharing ..I'll make sure to subscribe
@@abegaz9582 Thanks, much appreciated. The problem is that chain manufacturers experiment with different plastics for the seals, so whilst it may have been true that kerosene (which by the way can be different products) there is no guarantee for all current and future chains from all different manufacturers. I use kerosene type products for cleaning off oil - but not on chains - too expensive to risk for no reason.
Hey , really informative. I just wanted to know how often or after how much km should we adjust chain. My Duke 250 i feel my ride is bumpy almost after every 1000 kms . Is it due to chain alignment?
Thank
Hi, there is no rule as to how often - you need to do it when it needs it. Chain stretch is caused by wear in the link pivots and most wear is caused by lack of lubrication. Some argue sealed chains need little or no lubrication but I remain unconvinced. If the chain is going rusty or the chain looks bumpy instead of straight then it needs to be looked at.
It would have been a lot simpler if ktm would have just given the chain slack like the rest Instead of this point on the swing arm. In the past i have set my chain tension a bit too tight due to misinterpretation of the diagram.
It is unusual, to be fair. But once you know what you are doing, it's a much simpler process.
@@MotoMirius I now tend to keep the chain a bit slack. This 5 to 7mm of chain slack isn't very practical. There should have been atleast 10mm of range in the play in my opinion.
It's always good practice to be slightly too loose than too short. But once there is some wear on the chain it's relatively academic anyway @@shonith91
Helpful thank you
Glad it helped, thanks.
Love your videos m8. Its super helpful. After replacing chain and sprockets my rear brake feels like it changed in the way that it has too much free travel ( takes long before rear brakes start to grab ) . Could i have done something wrong or do I just adjust the free travek..
Rear brake is hydraulic - chain and sprockets, rear wheel adjustment, these have no impact on the the rear brake. I would suggest that it's just a coincidence that you've noticed it - likely because you are paying more attention to the rear of the bike. Check how much pad you have left and your fluid level.
Thanks
Welcome
my friend. that good video. I have a question. Can the oil to be cleaned be recycled engine oil or what is specific for proper cleaning?
Thanks. Clean oil is normally best. If you have a standard chain then it is possible to use used, but not so recommended if you have rubber seals in the chain.
what the sizes of bolts and nuts. I dont wanna start with missing sockets lmao
what's the best way to lift the front or back wheel off the groud without a bike stand
There are plenty of ways to improvise depending on what you are trying to do and what you have to hand - but doing so in a way that is safe and does not damage the bike is much harder. Given that you can buy stands quite cheaply, that would be my suggestion - I actually use cheap stands for things like the chain - they bend alarmingly and I don't like them but they work. One day I will buy a good, quality stand for this but since I do any serious work with an Abba stand, there are always other things to spend money on.
Can I use any engine oil ?
You could use engine oil to clean it, I wouldn't recommend using it as a lubricant as it will get very messy as it will get flung off very quickly. Skäl David
Just to make sure I fully understand how you're getting your chain measurement, you're measuring roughly 10-12 mm from the bottom flat part of the swing arm and 5-7mm from the bottom lip part of the swing arm?
That sounds about right but - just to be clear, this is not valve clearances, chain tension is not in real life measured to the mm except perhaps when you have just fitted a new chain and sprocket set. Looser is more important than being too tight, so I will always err on being at the looser end of any measurement, so I advise not being too concerned about getting it exactly to the mm.
The correct way is to measure from the top/underneath the swingarm like shown at 7:05? So I'm not measuring from the bottom of the side of the swingarm?
Exactly how this is measured is the subject of much debate between owners given that the factory diagram is open to interpretation. Once the chain has a little wear, this discussion (as with what is best oil and what tyres are best) becomes mostly academic given that only the tightest point in the chain is this measurement and all the rest of the chain is looser. A little too loose is better with chains than a little too tight so I would recommend erring slightly looser and you can acheive this by measuring from the lip and not the bottom of the swinging arm.
Sir, even on little rough road when chain hit chain slider it makes weird noise. how can we solve it ?
Check the chain slider has not worn through so the chain is hitting the swinging arm
How offend would you change the chain and sprockets for a bike used daily? Thanks
When it needs it. There is no time or mileage measure - it is largely a result of how well the chain is cared for - different bikes will have very different chain and sprocket life. If the chain is well cared for then it will be when the teeth on the sprocket start to wear.
Hi there, this is a great video, but just to clarify, the measurement of the chain is done while the bike is not on the side stand but on the lifting gear, which to my understanding will drive the rear wheel downwards and tighten the chain?
Basically, if I think it is loose while on the side stand, that might not be a clear indicator, as it is supposed to be 5-7mm while on the lifting gear. Is that a correct interpretation?
Yes, rear wheel must be in the air, this is the point where the chain is under the most stretch - it is at the tightest position it will ever be when riding. So the measuring ensures that the chain will never be fully tight when riding - which places strain on the gearbox. Remember a little too loose is always better than a little too tight.
So you measure from behind the lip on the swing arm, or at the very front of that lip? Its a different measurement depending on which you choose and I've seen it done both ways.
That's because KTM aren't very clear about where it's measured from - so people come to different conclusions
Hey David! The 5-7mm measurement for the chain slack, is it off the edge of the swing arm (it has a lip) or further in from the swing arm itself?
Hi, this is a question many people argue about as KTM are not precisely clear - is it the bottom edge of the swinging arm or the top of the lip at the bottom of the swinging arm? My opinion is that this is not a good question - with a brand new chain, yes you can be very precise, but once the chain starts to wear you are trying to find the tightest spot and work from that - so the rest of the chain is looser and not to that spec, so the argument becomes pointless. Looser is better than tighter, so work towards 7mm and if you want to be very sure, do that to the top of the bottom lip of the swinging arm. Hope this helps! David
Thanks for the video. I might have missed something but I couldn’t get what the correct/acceptable length of 20 pins on the chain should be. 30.16 is bad and needs replacement, what would be a good/acceptable length?
Misread your question at first. 301.6mm is the maximum length before the chain needs to be changed. If it's less than that then it doesn't need to be changed - obviously if it's close to that then change it. Given you would change chain and sprockets it's a bit expensive to change it before it needs it.
@@MotoMirius much appreciated
Do you measure from the lip on the edge of the swing arm or the inside?
I measure from the outside. There are huge arguments over this - all of which miss the point. Unless you have a brand new chain, there will always be a tight point which is where you must measure - but it is hard to know exactly which point is the tightest, and the rest of the chain is much more slack. My recommendation is not to lose sleep whether you do it from the bottom or the top of the lip.
Nice, thanks man! been looking for video about this for quite a while. One question, Did you measure the chain distance from the lip of the swing arm or from the bottom? It's kinda hard to tell from the camera perspective
It’s from the bottom as per the diagram on your chain guard. Skäl. David
This is odd, because the manual shows the measurement from the top of the swing arm but the diagram on the swingarm shows the bottom
Hello, found difficult to make out what you said. Was that motorcycle oil used to clean chain with brush?
Additionally have you replaced the oil seal behind the front sprocket?
Thanks for informative well presented clips.
Engine oil to clean the chain. It doesn't have to be anything specific. No I haven't changed the oil seal because it doesn't need changing. I frequently see people advising that the seal should be changed - but in most case the 'leakage' is just the chain oil thrown off the chain. Unless you have a sunny Sunday only bike where you can use a dry type lube then you should have oil 'leakage' off the front sprocket - if you don't you likely aren't putting enough lube on the chain.
@@MotoMirius thanks for this, will use engine oil to clean with toothbrush in future.
Thanks too for insight regarding shaft seal. Greatly appreciated.
Does the suspension need to be loaded to do this adjustment and check
No, it is done exactly as shown in the video
Hi Moto, is there any simple tool that we can put in between for the proper chain tension gap?
The ktm plastic chain stretch / tension tool doesn't work on the duke 390?
Cut a small block of something such as wood that will be the right size - I often just use a piece of card with markings that I hold against the swinging arm. But don't over think it - chains wear unevenly and it's better to be a little too loose than a little too tight. With a little practice you can see by eye when it is right.
Hey, i am a new rider. I wanted to know, isn't it recommended to check chain tension with the wheels on the ground?
With any other bike you would be correct. But not with this one. Which is a massive bonus because the standard way can be very time consuming as you adjust, tighten axle, put it on the wheels, measure, put it back in the stand, loosen, adjust and repeat.
@@MotoMirius Got it. Thanks a lot!!
Hi are are those front sprocket case bolts engine casing bolts?
No, they just hold on the sprocket cover.
Hello there can u tell me the size of The chain is it 520pitch or 530pitch
Stock chain is 520 X-ring Skäl David
Are you supposed to measure under the swingarm behind the edge or the edge of the swingarm? (Confusing but I dont know how else to explain it XD).
To the under edge of the swing arm where the chain would touch it if it were loose enough. A few mm doesn't really change much
Nice one👌👌👌
Thanks!
Great video. Just a quick question. My chain when tightened to the same setting each side seems to be misaligned when I use a laser or straight edge. It also wanders more when running on the stand when aligned with this method than the laser. Any ideas why?
It's not unknown for the markings to be misaligned. I tend to tweak the settings until I'm happy with them. There isn't any reason for the method to cause a change in the alignment but misalignment will be noticeable if you watch the chain running over the rear sprocket - and wear in the chain will make this more prominent.
@@MotoMirius thanks. I'll get a second pair of eyes on it. First time adjusting myself.
Shouldn't you check the wear on the chain firt? This would save you the trouble of cleaning and ajusting the chain? I'm asking because i'm about to adjust mine and I'm not sure if I will have to replace the chain?
If you suspect you may need to change the chain then yes, by all means check that first. If you are regularly cleaning, oiling and adjusting the chain you ought to have a good idea if the chain is coming to the end of life. Skäl David
@@MotoMirius Thanks for your answer. So if the distance between the pins is greater than 301,6 mm you have to change the chain? Even though it is 1-2 mm over?
Thanks, I got a ktm 390 adventure and my chain is lose. My question is how to lift the back wheel? Can I buy any backend lift or do I need any special tools. Where on my bike is it safe to raise. In a shop where I live they have a lift you put under the bike and then It can raise the bike. Is it safe to lift my bike from The underside?
There are a number of different ways of lifting the bike. My preference is an Abba stand - largely because my rear stands are cheap and rubbish, but decent ones are used in many shops - its a fast and reliable way of lifting the back wheel. You can lift from under the bike, but you should remove the bottom fairing first. It's possible to lift it on the side stand by jacking up on the other side. With most lifts you need crack the rear axle loose and tighten it with the wheels on the ground - safety is important when lifting a bike.
Sir can i modifie my duke 200bs6 back seat.. like rc back seat height.. It is possible.. reply me sir pls
You can do anything you want - but you will need to make it yourself - just use the stock plastic seat base and make a new cover for it.
Does a loose chain affect changing gears? My chain keeps getting loose after few days after i tighten it? I notice when it gets loose because the shifting seems weird and i miss 2nd or 3rs gear at times. When i tighten the chain back up the i never miss gears....why does the chain keep loosening? I just replaced the stock one and its loose already after a week of riding it. I tighten it with the wheels on the ground. Is that wrong?
Missing gears can cause shock loading on the chain, but most chain wear comes from lack of lubrication, so that shouldn't be an issue with a new chain. Gear changes should ideally be done with no load on the chain or gearbox so the chain would be mostly irrelevant to the change and the slipper clutch if you have one should assist - you might need to work on your technique a bit. But it could be that your issue is adjusting it on the ground - the tolerances quoted are for when the bike is in the air and the chain at maximum stretch - most bikes, the tolerances are for on the ground, but off road bikes need more play and KTM is mostly an offroad manufacturer at heart, so if you overtighten it then you can create stretch and you will damage the gearbox
what did you spray on the cloth to get oil off of the tire? wd-40?
I don’t recall what I used there. It may have been a brake cleaner. Obviously be careful with anything that could damage the tyre. Some people play safe with just dish soap but I’ve found tyres to be pretty resistant and I don’t often get oil on the tyre. Covering the tyre is of course the best method! Skäl. David
How much KM is recommended for every chain lube, in DUKE 390
In practice, there is no guideline. It needs doing when it needs doing so you must inspect the chain frequently. Riding in the wet will mean lubing more often. Skäl. David
When doing chain tension - do you measure off of the lip of the swingarm or off of the body of the swingarm? This is such a controversial topic in these bikes. I wish KTM would've just provided a limit for allowable "chain play".
If we follow the KTM guidance exactly, it is from the top of the lip of the swinging arm lower edge, but I use the bottom of the swinging arm to ensure I don't overtighten the chain and in any case the thickness of the swinging arm lip is close to the chain play tolerance.
But I don't believe the KTM engineers expected people to over analyse this or make it controversial since a chain will rarely wear evenly and guessing exactly which is the most tightest of the tight spots is pointless - internet arguments over this are between people who are not engineers. KTM have provided a limit for allowable chain play - 5-7mm. The only difference is unlike other manufacturers, they thoughtfully did so with the bike in the air so avoiding needing to drop it down onto the ground after every adjustment to confirm the measurement.
@@MotoMirius I'm still confused. When I set it to have an air gap of 5mm between the top of the chain and the lowest edge of the swingarm's lip - it feels too tight. It even makes screaching noise when I move the bike around if I set it like this.
What actually feels more or less alright is when the top of the chain barely disappears behind the swingarm's lip if pushed up in a described location from the underneath.
Which, surprisingly, is around 5mm from the non-visible surface of the swingarm..... I'm utterly confused here :-D
Another internet battle is over whether the measurement is to the top of the chain or to the centre of the link 🤦♂
@@affinitystablepeanuts There are lots of internet battles - but none that interest me, and I won't get drawn into that type of time wasting. I assume you have the rear of the bike in the air and you are doing it at the tightest point on the chain. If yes, then you are setting it at the point of maximum stretch of the chain - at no other time will the chain get this taut. If when the bike is down on the ground you have a tight spot then you are doing something wrong, the chain is worn out or there is something else causing it. Bottom line - it's always better to set the chain slightly too loose than too tight, so if 10mm works for you, then set it there and that is the right setting.
@@MotoMirius cheers, David! I really appreciate the work you put into all this and the help of your channel. Please believe me I make no intentions to get you involved in any of online arguments! Rather just wanted to know your opinion on this topic. Very grateful for your videos, especially everything around 390 duke. Makes my life with this bike a lot easier :)
Today I have re-done chain tensioning with the bike on the rear stand (as per manual) and I still have found that what feels like a correct tension is much less than what I get when tensioning as per 390 Duke's user manual.
I totally agree with you on "too lose is better than too tight". So I have left it at that. In my case it's about only 1mm visible airgap between the top of the chain link and the bottom edge of the swingarm's lip, when the bike is on a rear stand and when pushing the chain up and looking from the side as per Duke Owner's Manual.
Thank you again for all the informative and highly valuable videos and for finding the time to respond to my comments.
Have a wonderful day!
@@affinitystablepeanuts No problem, and good work there!
Hello sir, is diesel recommended to clean the chain ?
You could but I would recommend that you use engine oil to avoid any of the additives some diesel contains. Skäl. David
hello sir i needed the wrenches that u were using. can u suggest me from where to purchase?
Anywhere that sells metric tools. Second hand is always cheaper - avoid cheap new tools if you can as they will damage your bike. Try to buy at least good quality if you can't afford the best. Skäl David
@@MotoMirius tnxx
Hi david. My Rc200 chain has a slight slack from the given measures is it the reason for chain slaping the slider in bumpy roads or some amount of chain slap is normal in bad roads
Because the swinging arm and the chain do not share the same pivot point, there will always be some offset which creates slack and tightness with extreme movement of the swinging arm. If you look at the chain on a dirt bike, it will always have more slack than a road bike because the swinging arm moves a bigger distance.
@@MotoMirius thank you so much✌
My mechanic did tight chain is this okay??
It's either right or it's not and I can't tell if your chain is correct. If it is too tight, it will stretch the chain. Skäl David
7:14 It was around 5-6mm. If I also get that much, I will not need to adjust it right?
If it's within the correct value then no, no need to adjust.
@@MotoMirius How much should it be? around 7 ?
@@devengurung2622 5 - 7 mm - I think it says this on the chain guard
I just serviced my Bike at this dealer, I can barely tell they did anything at all and charged me almost $500 dollars. The receipt they gave me only showed basic checks but they claim they did every specified on the manual for the yearly service. I'm very skeptical of this.
If you've kept on top of your bike then you shouldn't find much difference in the bike from a service. The main spike in cost would be if they checked the valves as this is a time consuming job. I can't really comment on your service - there are great dealers and there are terrible dealers, I wouldn't take my bike to my closest dealer which is very close to me because I don't trust their work. These are reasons why I now do the work on my bike myself - it isn't hard to do so long you have at least some mechanical expertise and just work your way up to it. Of course if you have a new bike then selling price and warranty can make this a hard choice.
@@MotoMirius I feel exactly the same way. The dealer closest to me (10 minutes), I don’t trust their work after this time. Next time I will take it to another dealer 30 minutes away.
I have a question, the front part of the exhaust system( right where it starts at the front of the engine) looks kind of brownish, is there anything I can spray on it to prevent it from getting worse?
@@rolan2dr it's a mix of dirt and corrosion - the headers can get red hot when the bike is running. You can clean it off but it will come back. Some people paint with VHT exhaust paint or if it really bothers you, you could have the pipe coated with ceramic.
@@MotoMirius I have another question. My handlebars make a squeaky noise when turned right. What should I do? I have the universal joker spray the manual recommends.
What size wrenches and sockets?
If you are going to work on the bike you need to buy tools and I suggest buying a set. Buying individual tools is always a lot more expensive. Skäl. David
Hi David! is it ok to use non O ring type of chain on ktm duke 390? Thanks!
Yes you can use a non o ring chain. You will need to stay more up to date with oiling the chain
@@MotoMirius Thanks! cheers!
Hello David what size wrenches do i need and sockets? Mine is up to 18 amd doesnt fit on the axel nut
Rc125
Rear axle on the Duke is 17mm and 22mm. I assume the same on the RC. Skäl David
Hi there! I have been using the WD-40 motorbike chain cleaner and then their motorbike chain lube, are these ok? I can't seem to find Motorex products easily, even online for my area. Thanks!
I have much the same issue with Motorex - if I want it, I buy online. I would think it's OK but I'm not a massive fan. It's very convenient but expensive. A cheaper alternative is just to brush it down with engine oil then wipe that off - it will dissolve and dried grease and dirt, then lube it lightly.
@@MotoMirius ah understood thank you. Would any engine oil work? Or is there a one with ingredients I should look out for? I think brands I have most accessible are Castrol and Shell. Thanks again for the help
@@bisagni09 Just oil will be fine.
@@MotoMirius thank you!
what is this component in minute 3.35?
It is a spacer. I have no idea why it isn't made as part of the sprocket cover, but it isn't.... Skäl David
Hey ! Thank you for this helpful vid.. I have just few questions.. If i don't have that front stand holder.. Is there any difference if the bike is just on stand.. ? + You measure it when no-one is sitting on.. Soo when for example me - 80kg would sitting on.. It's gonna be much more tight... It's still ok to have this 0.5 - 0.7 cm there.. ? Or i should set it while sitting on it ? When i recieved bike from service first time.. The chain was much more free.. And it made weird sounds because of it.. so i tightened it and it's fine.. But those guys from service told me it can get damage for example when i hit some hole on street or if i would drive also some of my friend.. ? So what should be the tension in these case... ? Thank you a lot !
Hi, KTM have a different system to other bikes. You need a rear stand, no front stand. Then measure as it shows on the bike. No sitting on the bike. The correct tension ensures the suspension moves properly. Your weight affects the suspension settings not the chain tension. Skäl. David
How you can clean anything with oil ? 😂😂 So wrong
People have been cleaning chains with oil since chains were invented. I guess you've never tried it? Much better than using a detergent that will also strip out the oils and grease from the sealing rings and from inside the rollers, accelerating wear on the chain. Just because a detergent spray is quick doesn't mean that it is better.
Hey there. Thanks for the info. One question. Are you measuring the slack from the flat, underside of the swingarn, or from the protruding edge of the outer face?
A common question. Unless you are measuring a brand new chain then it makes no difference since you will be measuring the tightest point, and the rest of the chain will be slacker. I recommend measuring from the underside as looser is always better than tighter and it is better for your chain and bearings life to err on the cautious side.
Thanks for the info!
Hi there, when you measure the 5-7mm are you doing it from the lip of the swingarm to the chain or are you measuring from the slightly higher part behind the lip?
Hi, measurement is to the bottom of the swinging arm. The diagram can be confusing because the top arrow appears to point to the top of the lip - but the bottom arrow in that diagram points to the bottom of the chain - and it would be impossible to have 5-7mm clearance between the top of the lip and the bottom of the chain. But, it is important to remember that this is at the tightest point of the chain, not just a point in the chain (unless it is a new chain) and it's also important to remember that looser is better than too tight, so if you measure to the top of the lip, it will be better than doing it too tight. Hope this helps!
@@MotoMirius Yeah no I would only measure from the top of the chain to the swingarm because if we are going from the bottom of the chain to the swingarm then it would be too loose. From what I have gathered from your reply, it is that the best middle ground seems to be to measure from the top of the lip where the swingarm flattens out a bit. Thanks for your reply!
You should have edited and shown correctly adjusted chain for sure. Esp as they measure it differently. Here I got a new bike with reallt tight chain which i questioned and told itvwas meant to be like that. They talked 5 to 7mm but dealer boys didn't even know about measuring to the swing arm. No doubt I have already abused my chain in the 1300 km before I found proof. Oh you don't get a manual here. Its on an app I didn't want but doesn't work when downloaded. I had to get an eu one from web. Only one you can't download in I dia is the Indian one. 😢
The service and repair manual is available online from KTM in all countries. You will find the process is as described here. There is a diagram on the chain guard which shows the measurement. I can't comment on the 2024 Duke as this was made before that was released.
@@MotoMirius its not in India actually lol. Only from app which doesn't work. The service shop doesn’t have one and tighten chains like a bow thinking its 5-7mm play (think 2015 duke had that) many phone calls my complis highlighted lol. Its funny but its not 🙄
Os I have eu one but some diff as mine is meant to be e20 and its 3kg lighter 15 to 20 less in seat hight. Not sure if anytelse that makes a difference. But shop don't believe manual. Over filled it with oil too but wont accept that lol. They do whst they do which I very much doubt includes cleaning oil screens just hope it dd mean a nee filter on first service. Can you buy parts independently there. I was told only through dealership and one woman said shop had to do. Parts seem a difficulty full stop. Like my bike but regretting it. All the kids here moved to yamaha.
@@virupakshawalla5734 I didn't say it was in India lol, that was an example (because I've had many people in India complain that they have no access to things from KTM). I recommend that you find a new dealer or do it yourself.
@@MotoMirius
I meant Indian manual not available India. Only on totally non functioning app.
i am old and non mechanical but I will do the chain . I had to take oil out after service 🙄. Nice lads absolutely no idea what they are doing(they don'thave a manual at all btw). You can only get parts through them and none in this town. Lots of crashed bikes and ones waiting for parts. I wish I knew before but actually like the bike.
Ps not Indian but in India. Told them Bajaj own half and treating Indians much worse than rest of the world.
Hi David, I don't have a stand yet but should be buying one soon. Can I do a chain adjustment without it? I tried lifting the seat up to extend the rear spring and appears to be at max extension already. I've had my new bike for about a month now and the measurement is less than zero mm. I have my new torque wrenches ready to go.
Hi, although the spring isn't compressed, it also isn't extended by the weight of the rear wheel. So long as you've been putting lube on the chain you are probably still good to go as the dealer should have checked the chain. Good luck with your new bike!
Ive used spray nine degreaser on my chain one time (unfortunately before i saw your video). I sprayed on a brush and scrubbed the chain. Is my chain screwed after one time of that? Ive gone over with water to clean anything degreaser off. Thanks
It's OK to use them from time to time, just make sure you lube the chain well after and check it shortly after to make sure it is still well lubed.
@MotoMirius okay great, thanks for the info!! Cheers
i use Kerosene for chain clean, is it recommended..??
No. If you use it you will have to be very thorough in oiling it after and if you use an O or X ring chain will it damage the seals? Skäl David
hey tell me one thing if chain is loose at one point and tight at another point what is the reason for that
It’s because your chain is worn. Links will seize making it tighter in spots which will tend to increase wear elsewhere. Most common cause is lack of lubrication.
@@MotoMirius but i lubricated my chain on regular interval not sure wht could be the reason although my chain caught rusting will rusting create this problem?
@@rikki7663 It needs lubrication when it needs lubrication - not according to a schedule. If it has rust on it, this is a clear sign that it was not lubricated often enough. Riding in the rain after you've lubricated it can be enough for it to need lubricating again - depending on how much rain, how long ridden etc
Great advice thanks you 👍
My pleasure!
Where did you get that torque setting of 98 NM, The workshop manual was a lot less?
Seems high doesn’t it? KTM workshop manual states 98Nm 72.3lb ft
@@MotoMirius not in mine? can you post a link to the page?
Page 94 of the Repair Manual 2017. If you’ve something different then I’d love to see it 👍
Also 98nm in mine
Page 126, owners manual 2019 125 duke
@@MotoMirius my 2018 RC 390 says it’s just 90 Nm.. and why would the outside of my chain be getting a wear mark? It’s not real bad but I can see a shiny spot.
I use lamp oil to clean the chain. Works like a charm. Love your down to earth approach. Thanks!
Thanks for that. Yes, any light oil should do the job and I reckon lamp oil should be a great choice 👍. Skäl. David
As in kerosene? Ktm vid uses kerosene and oil mix. Only thing that worked on the app.