MASSIVE MOT FAIL FOR MY LAND ROVER DEFENDER...CAN I FIX IT?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
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CLICK HERE to download your FREE GUIDE 👉🏻 mailchi.mp/ebb...
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My Land Rover TD5 Defender failed it's MOT... Watch this video to see the repair I carried out to the steering components and for any of the parts I used on my land rover defender check out the links below!
PARTS I USED IN THIS VIDEO:
Discovery to Defender FULL conversion kit
ebay.us/D83XBo
LASER Drop arm puller
ebay.us/XLVJk0
Old Man Emu Damper
ebay.us/uubiJf
Axle stands
ebay.us/QPZvbF
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I am giving my Land Rover Defender 90 away for just £5 a ticket! The winner will be announced on Sunday 17th December at 8pm. Good luck!
GET A TICKET HERE: raffall.com/345715/enter-raffle-to-win-my-land-rover-defender-90-hosted-by-the-doctors-garage
Is this legit?
Yes it is - making room for my next defender project
@@thedoctorsgarage oh damn okay! I’m potentially getting my first defender 90 on Thursday!
@@thedoctorsgarage welp I entered! Who knows might be able to give my first one to my brother!
😂👌🏻🎟️ good luck!
Useful tip ...if you notice your rubber has split on a track rod end or the steering drop arm and the joint itself is still in good condition you can just replace the rubber boot ..... at the same time upgrade the rubber ones for polyurethane ones which are less likely to disintegrate over time .
Thanks Kizzy P - never knew that but wanted to do the job lot anyway as was all looking a bit tired
Yup Gynn Lewis does some good polyurethane replacements , I just used one on my 90 drop arm , till I can do the Disco drop arm conversion.
@@thedoctorsgarage Still keep a regular check on your drop arm one ..that one seems to split more regularly than the others ...if you catch it in time then just replace the boot 😀
Good job Marcus. I’d get the tracking checked now you’ve replaced the track rod ends and bar. Even if you took measurements from your old track rod end the bar was bent so maybe out.
Thanks Andy- yeah will get someone who knows what they are doing to get it aligned and sorted- hopefully the same place that does the MOT will be able to sort it out
Well done Doc! I was wondering what you've been doing these last few weeks. You can't beat having the correct tools for the job, it makes doing these jobs so much easier. 👍
Cheers thanks!
Excellent choice going with Gwyn Lewis 4x4 parts. I’m a long time NAS LHD Discovery 1&2 owner and I always pony up and purchase their products. Top quality they are. I previously installed the Terrafirna track rod kit but it severely corroded and the boot seals perished after 6 months of normal day-to-day driving. Cheers from a ‘Murican out in East Anglia! 🇺🇸🏴
Thanks for all the videos mate.👍🏽
Thanks! Yes really pleased with the quality- looks like it will last a long time and thanks for watching!
I imagine you are a better doctor than mechanic cosmetically speaking!
😂 I’d hope so too! I
... a pretty good video ... I would suggest that you finish off the split pins by rolling the long end pin back into one of the nut castelations and the other pin back tight against a nut flank (shorten pin ends as required) which makes for a much safer and cleaner job completion ... Cheers.
Wheel wobble could be the panhard rod bush worn, or the bolt that goes through it has been ‘fretted’ and its diameter reduced. Good to see you using good quality Lemfoeder parts. Don’t forget to get the tracking done, now you have replaced all those parts
They don’t have “Panhard rods “ (lateral across live axles/or beams) only radius arms that are parallel with the chassis, maybe that’s what you meant….
@@Incountry
What? Of course they do. It stops the front axle from moving side to side.
Copied from the workshop manual:
A panhard rod, which ensures that the front axle remains centrally located, is fitted transversely and also uses ferrule rubber bush mountings at both axle and chassis locations.
@@johnchetwynd3618
Please accept my apologies, I’m thinking of the LR D3 which is independent all round, completely different set up, as I’ve not seen a D2 up in the air for few years as they don’t get them at the dealership anymore….
My cousin brought down his HiLux Surf to the shop and that was in the air with and he’s got radius arms and panhards on his model (heavily modified) still has them.
Cheers John will take a look thanks
A lot of your steering wobble can come from tyre pressures on full mud terrain tyres. It may not be your problem with this, but do check them, it can make a profound difference
Appreciate that will do thnaks 👌🏻
Excellent work, Doc! That looks like a job well done! You made it look easy, and I know that it’s not!
Cheers Jerry appreciate it
I can see that the track rod ends can wear, but what can go wrong with the drop arm? It is just a solid piece of forged steel. Good luck with you re test! Replacing the steering damper is a good idea, a worn one can lead to a severe wobble when driving along a straight road. Chris B.
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The wobble (once you eliminate tyre bounce [swap front & back wheels]) could be one of the UJ on your drive shafts, if left untreated it will deteriorate to the point of falling off :)
Thanks Mark…doesn’t sound great - I’m
hoping some simple remedies will help before getting too intense!
I think you have done well. It always make me nervous when I have to touch steering comportment in the cars. I hope your truck drives straight and no wobble. How did you adjust those ends bits? I saw some count the threads.... Mine wobble at 90KM/h . It is coincidence, I was looking at those parts yesterday. It looks like your steering box is leaking...? Thanks for the video! If everything fails, just move to Australia! No MOT every year. Just once when you register the car. That's it!
😂 I measured the rod size but have since had it at a garage and they have fine tuned it and aligned it all perfectly. Yes my steering box leaks- any solution to that? I’ve heard it quite a futile task to stop the leak?
Gwyn Lewis kit the best! so happy with my mod on Ginger
So well put together isn’t it 👌🏻👌🏻
Wheel wobble on a Defender (or Discovery 1 & II) can also be steering damper which is easily changed. BUT don't just go changing everything when it could be just wheel balance or ONE ball joint or bush that needs changing. It's always best to identify exactly what need fixing or motoring can get very expensive when it shouldn't.
Just put out a new video where I solved it! I did end up replacing everything in the end but its fixed now
Bravo Doc, at last you got your hands dirty.
🔧 🙏🏼
Hi Doc, some good work, nothing like being able to do the work yourself, I just don't know about the two axle stands as your safety equipment, here in Australia we do not having anything like your MOT, being a ex Kiwi we had to do a Warrant of Fitness every six months, depending on the age of the vehicle, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia.
It’s not the best set up is it Les- but better than a Jack to hold it up! Note the spare wheel to crush before it tries to get me
Your hub seemed to turn too easily, check swivel preload, likely cause of wobble at speed.
You are right about that. His swivels are way too loose.
I re-shimmed mine and the car tracks way better and no wobble anymore (series3)
Thanks guys- I’ll take a look at what this is and try and sort it!
Oh, that bloody rubber! Mine failed last year's MOT because it had split, the garage replaced it, it was split again 3 weeks later, the garage replaced it a second time, and I have just had an advisory on this year's MOT a couple of weeks back telling me it has gone again!
Same here. I’ve become resigned to the rubber splitting every few weeks.
Nightmare- I’m hoping the disco conversion arm solves this 👌🏻
@@thedoctorsgarage I was encouraged by how easy it was to remove the arm with the puller. A job for the spring I think.
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Whatever brand you buy eg Britpart whatever it’s all Chinese crap.
love the nod to TirsbaekTV.
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Passenger side swivel housing was moving under its own weight, that’s too loose, needs adjusting. Didn’t see the drivers side so can’t comment on that. Steering box is leaking fluid out of the bottom seal, like most of them do. I think the drop arm you’ve fitted is not as thick as the original, that’s why there’s a gap above it, I’d say that’s probably normal.
Cheers Mark will take a look at those points. Yes I have a leak on my steering box- it’s minimal but annoying - is there much you’d do for that?
Doc you're going the right way about it replacing all the ball joints at one time will eliminate the steering shudder at 50 mph plus or should do. Find out after you've replaced everything and once down on the ground, measure how much free steering wheel travel left to right if it's over 1.5 to 2 inches then the steering box need to have the play taken out of it look it up to see the proper procedure to do it. But don't go too far on the adjustment or it will go tight on both full locks. The centre part of the travel will have the most wear but if you tighten it up too much in the centre then it will go tight on the full locks. Don't forget to take it to a garage that knows land rovers to reset the steering properly as there are 4 ball joints as opposed to two on a normal vehicle with a steering rack. Also a common thing that causes steering shudder is loose swivels and I noticed your near side one moved almost of its own accord. That should require a pull of around seven pounds to pull the swivel around the ball. The pull is trough the ball joint hole in the swivel arm. I'd get yours checked before you go much further Doc.
Cheers and thanks for the advice - really appreciate it
Love watching your videos
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looks good, I will update my shopping list.
😂👌🏻
should this not have vented discs on the front ?
The MOT in N.S.W Australia we have if your vehicle is over 5 years old you have to do a regestration inspection and l have a 25 year old toyota hilux and it has failed its last two inspection by the way there is no advisories and the on the exhaust system one year l had the front section replaced snd second part was replaced the following year l also make dure everything works be fore l go for sn inspection
Yeah sounds like a good idea
Well done….BTW the 50-60mph death wobble is the tension on the swivel barings the looked loose when you took the track rods off and need 4lbs of tension in them. It’s an easy job just get a set of shims and set them up to have some friction.
Cheers William- will take a look
@@thedoctorsgarage It took me ages to find my death rattle and its quite common. nothing to do with steering damper at all. Your swivels just moved with gravity and there needs to be a bit of resistance. Use a fishing spring balance
th-cam.com/video/_dOijZ9q9PY/w-d-xo.html
Great video, I’m about to tackle this on my restoration, so a great heads up for me. Have you sold your drop arm puller?
Thanks George- no I haven’t but if you’d like it I can sell it to you- cost me £50 - will sell it for £20 + postage if you’re keen? Message me on Instagram @The_Doctors_Garage
I'm surprised you have not got your motor waxoiled
I do lanoguard it myself as didn’t want the mess of Waxoyl but may do in the future
Good job.
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Check the thickness of the old drop arm and compare to new one, before you try closing that gap
Copaslip to make next time easier
Let me know if you want to sell the drop arm puller, I’ve got the same job to do !
It’s for sale Steve- message me on Instagram - @The_Doctors_Garage !
Please say you went and got the tracking done lol amother great video tho
Cheers Paul- yes I will get someone that knows what they are doing to sort that at the end!
Cannot be done, ghet your self, amg. Will make mo dynamic and performance. If you regularly serviced they will make it you more last. Defender. It's no good enny more like before.
Landrover = fail!
Stop talking get on with the job 50% talking no good
thats the drop arm puller you want / if you want to sell it when your done contact me
Informative and possibly a job for my Defender in the future. Some costings would be useful. Not sure if it is a factor in the nut not tightening but I would have given the splines a clean up with a wire brush - there appears to be a fair amount of accumulated crud at the top of the bolt.
Cheers Phil- I gave the splines a fair rub down got it as clean as possible. Price wise for everything I have done so far (including the damper I haven’t fitted yet) is around £550 delivered.
@@thedoctorsgarage Costings much appreciated. It's all relative, but not too bad given the kit.
Hi Sir, I would like to know did your power steering oil leaking there? because mine 110 was leaking, already change the seal kit few months ago, but still there was a leaks currently, wondering the box or the shaft having problem. I was told that the shaft needed to modify (make it larger) by welding, so that the steering oil won't leaks out...Hmmm...
Hey - mine has always leaked and I’ve heard it quite hard to stop it leaking - apparently they all do!
@@thedoctorsgarage oh I see, so overall defender is a "leaking"car, can say like that? hahaha😂😂😂
Your "Death Wobble" is most often caused by soft track bar bushings. They feel tight, but actually allow movement. Only use Rover branded, as they are much stiffer than aftermarket ones. Also, D1's are rebodied Defenders. Many many parts interchange.good video, and good choice to replace all those related parts at at the same time.
Cheers Toni - will take a look
You didn't seem to refit the damper although you did mention it plus I don't see a bracket for fitting it. Steering vibration at whatever speed you said is probably wheels out of balance. Steering wobble or shake which can become uncontrollable is down to the damper. I had this on my Discovery and fitted two new ones neither of which cured it, I then spent ages reshimming the swivels to no avail. It ended up that the new dampers I'd fitted were crap, even the Land Rover OEM one, after fitting one similar to your new one the problem was solved.
Thanks Tim- I’ll be fitting it next !
im 17yr old and ive brought myself a td5 defender just like urs. when i get up to about 50mph it feels like if i knock the steering wheel slightly its gonna fly off the road. ive had it tested twice and theyve said its all ok. i love it tho, think its the best car in the world.
Nice! Something that did improve my handling was an anti -roll bar if yours doesn't have one fitted. Enjoy your TD5!
You bought it and brought it home. Sounds serious. Go to a Land Rover Indi.
Should you be going 50mph if you're 17 ? ;)
Nice vid.I,m saving the next bit till after dinner.lol.
Thumbs up,thanks.
Hope you enjoy!
Gwyn Lewis is a great outfit. Check out their mud shields and flaps if you want to increase your under body protection. Great video as usual Marcus.
Cheers Tony- will take a look
If you want to sell it I will give you 1000 pounds for the car.
I’m ok but thanks for your offer
@@thedoctorsgarage obviously I was joking but not many understand the British sense of humour , that said would like to buy one but I’m a salesman’s dream no nothing with not much money so I’m there ready to be conned.
😂 well I think prices are dropping this winter and lots for sale so I’d hold out a few months and you might get a deal
@@thedoctorsgarage thanks still don’t know what is good bad or scrap but thanks for reply.
You might need to do your swivel hubs if you have that wheel wobble of death :) - just had mine done and waaaaay better
Cheers will take a look👌🏻
Guessing the wheel alignment isn't that great an idea. Vibration through the steering is due to the off-road mud tyres fitted. Doesn't look like it gets much use off road, so the mud tyres are a strange choice, bearing in mind they will mean using more fuel, more noise, and vibration through the wheel at some road speeds.
Look cool though! Vibration has stopped now with a new damper 👌🏻
@@thedoctorsgarage Good the vibration has gone. Might be worth getting the wheel alignment done professionally?
@@humourless682, I’d second that, worth a tracking👍
When I had a TDi defender from new it was dealer serviced and fairly high mileage. All the steering damper and shocks, bushes etc were replaced at around 80k and the change in handling was unbelievable with most of the wheel wobble gone. The big wheels and tyres really do exaggerate wear and tear.
Will you need to have the tracking re aligned?
Going to get that done as definitely don't trust my ability to do that!
Good work don’t forget to get the wheels alignment done 👍
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Well done Doc 👍
Cheers! 👌🏻👌🏻
Excellent upgrade, surprised the drop arm came off so easily as had to cut mine off on my newer defender.
There was a lot of outtakes!
Agree with you there. All pullers failed, garage hydraulic press wouldn’t shift it. Only option was to cut it off. Long job in the end.
Steering wobble at 50mph ish usually your wheels out of balance.
That was my first thought too.
Will get them check too!
@@thedoctorsgarage I guess you will need to have the tracking done after this work. So that will be a good time to get the wheel balancing checked.
Not always. Steering wobble usually caused by incorrect preload of swivel bearings, too often I see people upgrading the steering damper which masks the problem but doesn’t fix it.
@@squadmeta Indeed there can be a few reasons for steering wobble ..but wheel balance or damage usually the first place to start.
Looks like you’re missing the bracket for your rear track rod.. they do bend under tension. the bracket is there to reduce and straighten it back out (QEU101060)
I saw that on another video somewhere and wondered why I dint have that!
Another tip when replacing the track rod. To get the length of the new one right, thread in the new ends and adjust by laying it alongside the old one thats come off, and adjusting to same length. Although yours did have a bend in it!😂
😂 good tip thansk
Great work! 👏🏾
Drop arm…drag link….track rods……well known for 40 years sadly….
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Good job. Interested to see if you think it drives better after replacing these parts.
Cheers- will let you know how I get on!
If the vehicle fails the mot..can you still drive it on the road bare bones without insurance?or every single vehicle must pass the mot in order to be driven on the road?im not from UK so i hope you can help me provide the information i need...thank you
Hey Dol -no here in the UK if you don't have an MOT you can't get it uninsured etc so you have to have it passed or you cannot take it on the road
@@thedoctorsgarage thats mean if you want to drive the car on the road,it must be insured which mean the vehicle must pass the mot test first...am i correct?
Yes 👍🏻
5:54 Your wheel spacers ain't hub-centric that may be causing the steering wobble at 50mph+.
Thanks for the comment - are there spacers that are hub-centric you can buy??
@@thedoctorsgarage Yes... In the meantime remove the spacers and see if the steering wobble disappears.
Did you get the arm up further on steering box ??
I didn’t - but sent it over to Gywn Lewis and that is how they expect the Disco arm to fit so all good in the end 👌🏻
Love the quality parts you install. May I ask for the colour code on your car?
Thanks Paul! It’s a factory Color - Keswick Green
@@thedoctorsgarage Thanks Doc. Yup I know Keswick just wondering if there was a specific code. No worries if not. I am currently building a 1998 90. Ground up with a new chassis. Also going to be fitting a BMW M57 engine. So I have my work cut out. Keep up the good work. All the best Paul.
@@paulallen873 I believe the Land Rover code is 799. M57 build sounds very nice- one day I’d like to do the same
@@thedoctorsgarage Thanks very much. 799. I will check this out. And I will let you know how I get on. I have found a decent engine locally. Just need the adaptor kit. Probably use everything from MWMachines. The engine is a M57 306D1 from a low use 2006 Range Rover Vogue L322. You can also use the E46 M57N 306 D2 from a BMW 330.Which is meant to be a slightly better in performance. But as I will be using the standard gearbox and transfer with a slight boost to about 210hp, I don't need the extra from a newer version. Will let you know how I progress.
The secret to getting the drop arm up tight on the box shaft is having both components really clean and copper paste, it never fails
Nice Ken- should have tried that
@@thedoctorsgarage, I had to change mine on my 94 300TDi Defender, a real B…h of a job until I bought the same tool. Anyway the new arm didn’t go up tight either, had everything meticulously cleaned, just put it down to another aftermarket part not being 100% like the old one, love the heavier bars you used, great job. I also fitted the Roamerdrive to mine, what a difference!!👍👍
Thanks Rory that’s good to know yours didn’t go all the way up too 🙏🏼🙏🏼