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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- Save hundreds of dollars by using this work-a-round to fix a salt system chlorinator that says "HOT" on the display screen. Hope this helps. Leave comments below if it does or does not work for you. NOTE: IF YOU ARE FOLLOW ALONG WITH THIS VIEDEO, YOU ARE DOING SO AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT, DO NOT ATTEMPT.
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Worked like a charm for me. Cost me $10, but saved $400
Thank you very much for the tutorial
Thanks for the thermistor info. I cut my red and blue wires and discovered my CIRCCUPOOL controller defaulted to 82 degrees and all generation is back to normal. Temp was indicting 194 before I isolated the controller from the thermistor.
Thank you for the video. This fixed my issue also. Saved me $1,000 on a new cell.
I follow the instructions and it worked perfectly ... until the seam of the salt unit started leaking - totally unrelated to this fix. Great work!!!
You just saved us more than 800$, I can't thank you enough!
We'd like to send you a small gift from Montreal if it's ok with you
HEY!!!! All you fellow challenge any tasks people out there, know that there's a dwindling few of us left. As to this gentleman, taking his time to help people like me or you, I believe there's a special place in heaven. I can't tell you how thankful I am - you are a great person (I don't care what your wife's been saying down at the speakeasy - just kidding). Thanks. Really
Worked like a charm. Circuit board size is easier to place inside unit than the larger one pictured here.
Thank you so much Sir. My system was reading Hot and the generating light was flashing and my pool started turning green since no chlorine was being produced , took my cell to Pincha penny and after testing it failed. After watching this video I just tried, my system had the blue, red, orange, yellow, green and brown in addition to the 2 black and 2 white. I cut the red and blue and the generating light is solid so far so good so im waiting for the potentiometer to arrive to finish it. Just saved $800+ at least for now.
Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou Got 3 PTs from Amazon for $7.00 Have 2 left . Dialed it right in , reset the box and done. Generating. I think my cell overheated because when I took it off to examine it it was clogged with junk and the cells were scaly. Did the acid wash. Clean up everything but the thermistor was toast. Simple easy fix. Mike
Thank you for the video. After watching your video I t was very easy to fix. It took me less than 10 mins. I made the connection a lot higher up on the cable and hid the potentiometer behind the panel. Thanks again.
Awesome, I'm glad it worked out for you.
Oh my thank YOU so very much for this!!! My husband followed your instructions and worked like a charm! We appreciate you!! Have a blessed day!
I have a Blue Works system and it worked great. Same wire colors too. THANK YOU so much for the video. Not sure how you figured this out but smarter than me.
I was getting the HOT message on mine and noticed it went away when I reseated the connector at the unit. Recommend using contact cleaner on the connector and see if reseating the connector fixes the issue. If you have an multimeter, measure the resistance at the connector (you can find the pinout of the molex connector online). If it's in the 10K ohm region, don't cut your cable. Good Luck!
Could you sent me a link to that pinout for the molex connector please?
If you are correct that the thermistor in these cells increases in resistance as the temperature increases (PTC type instead of NTC type), then you can use something called a gel filled inline telecom splice. You won't have to cut the cell's wires at all or use wire nuts (or equivalent). A telecom splice has a slot along one side that you use to wrap around the existing wire (without cutting it), and a hole you use to insert the new wire (that you want to go to the potentiometer). You then use pliers to press the cap down which causes metal fingers inside the splice to pierce both wires insulation without cutting the wires, which makes a splice connection like a TEE. The gel in it squishes around the wires and protects the splice from water which can interfere with the signal. You do that with both the salt cell wires you want to splice into. The potentiometer will then be wired in parallel to the thermistor which will lower the overall resistance of the circuit according to the amount you turn the potentiometer. Using splices this way will only work if you are correct that the thermistor is a PTC type (positive temperature coefficient) which increases resistance as the temperature increases, and if the thermistor is not internally shorted to ground. You can then mount the potentiometer in a weather safe box to keep water (especially salt water) away from the potentiometer and hte signal wires, which would affect the temperature setting you are going for.
HOWEVER, If the thermistor is a NTC type (negative temperature coefficient) then using a splice in this way will not work, because for those thermistors a maximum temperature will result in a very low resistance or a short circuit.
I do wonder, however, whether the temperature circuit is only for optimizing power usage or if it is for fire safety. i.e. The control board will change the plate energizing power depending on the water temperature. Enough power to break the chloring ions from the sodium chloride. If the circuit is actually capable of applying way too much power, and the water chemistry is basic, the cell might also become a hydrogen generator which could be dangerous. So, when you're lying to the control board, what is the actual consequence or risk if the actual water temperature is different from what the board thinks is the water temperature? I'm assuming that most people will not go out and adjust the potentiometer every time it changed by 10 degrees or more to make sure it stays in a safe range.
Temperature is part of the calculation of salinity. The system uses salinity to warn the user of low or high salinity and for self-protection (higher salinity equals more amperage; lower salinity and the cell produces more sodium hydroxide which can damage the plates).
Inaccurate temp readings is problem with lots of salt cells and is why the resolution tolerance is set at around +/- 500ppm. The accuracy of the thermistor is also a thing. Colder water tends to produce lower salinity readings due to accuracy range of the thermistor being used.
Additionally, the system uses conductivity to produce a salinity reading. Conductivity of saltwater decreases as temperature decreases. This is why temperature is a thing with SWCGs.
Wow it really works and somewhat easy to do . Thank you very much from Toronto Canada
I wish you were my neighbor. Thank you, sir.
This was amazing. I have no idea what I did but it worked exactly like you said. I even got to use my voltage meter which I have no idea how it works as well. Very cool. Thank you my friend!
I LIKE IT!!!! Hayward consistently overcharges for their products...don't get me started on their lights. Personally, I would just install a resistor inside the box for waterproof purposes and remove it if I ever replaced the SWG.
Exactly, you have to use the potentiometer to find what resistor value you need, then solder it in and heat shrink to make it all water tight inside the box.
Thank you good sir. Taught me something and saved me money. Greatly appreciated.
Brilliantly done !!! Thank you, I’ll remember this fix for sure.
I like clever people. Thx !
Excellent video! Very well done!!!
THANK YOU - just applied this bypass worked like a charm....
Question. When you had the "HOT" display on your screen could you push the diagnostic button and read the other settings or was it locked on HOT the entire time until you made the bypass?
@@pjdn sorry I don’t remember
@@WilliamBarton-ss5sq Okay thanks. I figured it.
How do you protect the stuff from getting wet?
Very well explained. Nice job.
Great video, I had this same problem, and this was great help and it solved my problem.
Worked like a charm!
Question. When you had the "HOT" display on your screen could you push the diagnostic button and read the other settings or was it locked on HOT the entire time until you made the bypass?
Great video and nice bypass.
Great video! Have you figured out how to Fix the T15 cell when it does not give the correct salt reading?
Mine says check salt - I tried a aftermarket cell - it generates salt now but does not read correct salt level, returning it & ordering another Hayward next spring. Seems they last just over 3 years.
Worked great. Thx you saved me money. 👍
Question. When you had the "HOT" display on your screen could you push the diagnostic button and read the other settings or was it locked on HOT the entire time until you made the bypass?
I have the t-15. There are more wires. I followed your instructions and cut the red and blue wires. Then connected them to the potentiometer. Nothing changed.
Do you have any idea if it could be any of the other wires.
Two white, two black, green, orange, yellow,purple, red, and blue
Thanks for the info...I tried the potentiometer trick & it seemed to work as I could turn control on the pot & it would change temp on control panel..And when I tested my old cell in a large bucket of water it created a generous 'cloud' of chlorine, but when I reinstalled salt cell into pool plumbing, I get absolutely ZERO chlorine at the pool return jets..No cloud, no bubbles, & no chlorine detected on test strips!! what am I doing wrong???
Thank you!
I did the clever surgical modification and it worked. However, my salt reads funny. Started out initially at 2700. Planned to add salt after I put up my tools and noticed it said 3500 (without adding salt). Checked again today and now it reads 4400. Hmmm. 🤔
I believe salt reading is calculated based on temperature. If temperature reading is off, salt reading will be inaccurate too.
Unless you have to adjust it
Maybe just put in a 10k ohm resistor in
Yes you can use a 10k resistor instead
How did you go about determining which wires were hooked to the thermistor? I attempting to check the resistance between two pins in the plug, but would not determine a combination of two pins that would be the thermistor connection. Mine originally read 188 degrees and (hot). After reseating the plug, the 188 went to 82 which is accurate, but the hot remained so I'm not convinced I have the same issue. I have an RX Clear version of this, not a hayward, but I suspect they are similar.
10k ohm works, no need for a pot
What would be the failure mode if the temp sensor is good but the plates are bad? My temp sensor ohms out at 13k ohms at 70 degrees so im assuming its not the temp sensor. Any way to test the plates? My salt system comes on when I powder it up but quits making bubbles after about 5 minutes.
First it said cold, and after unplugging and plugging it, again it shows hot.
How do you waterproof this repair? I have it electrical tape wrapped, but I don't know if that is enough. If the potentiometer gets wet, will that cause an issue?
I bought an outdoor wire splicing box off Amazon for $11. Comes in today and should do the trick.
Question. When you had the "HOT" display on your screen could you push the diagnostic button and read the other settings or was it locked on HOT the entire time until you made the bypass?
I could push button and read other settings.
@@kfixit Ok thanks. Worked liked a charm also. The reason I asked the question is because my display wouldn't show the temperature reading just HOT but I found a fix to remove display board and to polish the long contact pins. After reinstalling the display board the display cycled properly also showing a very high temperature reading of 209 F. I have the model r1.40 revision circuit board which actually has ten total multi color of wires going to the salt cell but the same red an the blue color wires went to the temperature sensor. I did find information stating pin (6) is the red and pin (10) is the blue if anyone needs to ohm the temperature sensor before cutting the wires. I then proceeded to install the 10k ohm potentiometer Thanks again.
Any one have a link to the part to fix it?
Tried this today. no success. Still says HOT. Didn't test with my meter but when I tried to make an adjustment after it was connected the Potentiometer adjustment went from 235F to 265F.
Check your resistance with a meter and ensure you have it connected correctly.
I have the "Blue Works" system which is a duplicate of the Hayward Aqua Rite system.
My cable going from the board directly to the cell.
The panel show hot, will your solution will work ?
Regards
Yep, I just did it. Same color wires as well. It was like a miracle.
Thanks for the video. I have T-15 salt cell that read HOT. I followed the instructions here, and the potentiometer worked in adjust the perceived water temp. However, my display still reads as HOT and wont start generating salt. Any idea why? Thanks!!
I'm looking into this as well. I saw a forum on placing a butterfly paper clip on the black round thermistor as a make shift thermistor. Looks like they changed it too SL32 5R020 NTC Thermistors. If you find a solution let me know.
Make sure your potentiometer is connected to the red and blue wires which lead back to the control panel. Do not connect the potentiometer to the wires leading to the salt cell. I did nor make this too clear in the video. Hope this helps.
@@kfixit disconnected the wires and this time it said COLD,turned the knob a little bit and abracadabra! Generating chlorine!Thank you so much for your video and reply!
Hi! Does this fix only apply when your aquarite temperature reading was much higher than it actually is? Mine reads HOT but when I pressed the diagnostic once it actually reads 90 degree, obviously not HOT… is this also the thermistor problem or my cell is dead because of some other issues…?
Not sure but it's worth a try.
Could you reset the board
Unfortunately, resetting the board does not clear this error message.
I have a Hayward Tcell 9 and have red, blue, yellow, green orange, and brown wires inside. Those wires are in addition to the 2 black and 2 white wires. I am not sure which color to cut and assemble. Any suggestions?
Mine is T-Cell 15 but same color as yours, tried the same blue and red wires and didn`t fix the problem but at least now it says cold which is better than hot :) I can bypass it and put in max chlorine for now, did you figure out yours yet?
@@mattparvin1385 I also used the same blue and red wires, and it appeared to have fixed my problem. I had an issue adjusting the water temperature. When I set the temperature in the 70's, it was still reading hot, so I played with the settings until I received a normal reading. The system is working correctly at this point.
@@MM-bs6jv Thanks for you reply, at least I know the same wires worked for you so maybe something is wrong with the Potentiometer I used, any way I diel it won't go over 25!
@@mattparvin1385how did you bypass the Cold display?
@@MM-bs6jvwhat temperature did u finally settle at
Thank you good sir. Taught me something and saved me money. Greatly appreciated.