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I have never turned a profit mining other when I tried some of it 12 years ago or something like that. I wish I would have saved the BTC but thought it was a waste of time. I really don't think there is much money to be made unless you can get in on the ground floor of a coin and for every coin that comes out there are 20,000 of them that fail.

Nice video. I remember when people were mining XMR on Vega 64s. Fun times! Do you plan on getting another rig to replace this one?

I did the clever surgical modification and it worked. However, my salt reads funny. Started out initially at 2700. Planned to add salt after I put up my tools and noticed it said 3500 (without adding salt). Checked again today and now it reads 4400. Hmmm. 🤔

always a risk updating bios ... especially if it bricks and you dont have the skills to program a prgrammer... long live zif :D

"OOBANTOO" doesn't exist.

What's that wallpaper animal?

exec sudo -i systemctl set-default graphical exec systemctl isolate graphical Who needs reboot? 🙃

Oh my thank YOU so very much for this!!! My husband followed your instructions and worked like a charm! We appreciate you!! Have a blessed day!

Please tell the profite or loss in the next upcoming videos

C’mon man.. you wasting your time money and power… Just buy the coin if you want it that bad

The key to Monero mining is cache per core, you ill not do well with intel Xeon or any intel. Ryzen 3900, 5900 are the best for the price.

It's pointless mining on those old servers to be honest your jus wasting your time and your electricity. Sell them all and buy one modern ryzen system and get 10-20kh i.e 10x or 20x the hashes for probably less watts.

Does it ruin the computer? Like how much will it shorten the life of my computer if I have it run all the time?

You just saved us more than 800$, I can't thank you enough! We'd like to send you a small gift from Montreal if it's ok with you

Question. When you had the "HOT" display on your screen could you push the diagnostic button and read the other settings or was it locked on HOT the entire time until you made the bypass?

I wish you were my neighbor. Thank you, sir.

am4 and ryzen 3600 , two sticks of ddr4 - thats your entry point for cpu mining. IMO. older tech just isnt worth it. you get 7khash on ryzen 3600. and then you have an upgrade path to ryzen 5900 if you want

Love the video!! Please keep posting more!

crypto mining on a cpu is never a good idea, let alone on a $50 machine. funny to see this being tried though

EPYC is the Key 😉

Hi, thanks for this really interesting video! How much power does this server need?

Probably cost more in electricity

Love these down-to-earth experiments, very informative video!

hahaha useless

Tried something similar and it wasn't worth it for me either.

Use dedicated Nodes (clustering) with ASIC or FPGA cards mate more efficient and power hungry

Worked like a charm. Circuit board size is easier to place inside unit than the larger one pictured here.

Worked great. Thx you saved me money. 👍

I follow the instructions and it worked perfectly ... until the seam of the salt unit started leaking - totally unrelated to this fix. Great work!!!

HEY!!!! All you fellow challenge any tasks people out there, know that there's a dwindling few of us left. As to this gentleman, taking his time to help people like me or you, I believe there's a special place in heaven. I can't tell you how thankful I am - you are a great person (I don't care what your wife's been saying down at the speakeasy - just kidding). Thanks. Really

10k ohm works, no need for a pot

Thanks for the thermistor info. I cut my red and blue wires and discovered my CIRCCUPOOL controller defaulted to 82 degrees and all generation is back to normal. Temp was indicting 194 before I isolated the controller from the thermistor.

I was getting the HOT message on mine and noticed it went away when I reseated the connector at the unit. Recommend using contact cleaner on the connector and see if reseating the connector fixes the issue. If you have an multimeter, measure the resistance at the connector (you can find the pinout of the molex connector online). If it's in the 10K ohm region, don't cut your cable. Good Luck!

Thank you!

THANK YOU - just applied this bypass worked like a charm....

Worked like a charm!

I have a Blue Works system and it worked great. Same wire colors too. THANK YOU so much for the video. Not sure how you figured this out but smarter than me.

Unless you have to adjust it Maybe just put in a 10k ohm resistor in

What would be the failure mode if the temp sensor is good but the plates are bad? My temp sensor ohms out at 13k ohms at 70 degrees so im assuming its not the temp sensor. Any way to test the plates? My salt system comes on when I powder it up but quits making bubbles after about 5 minutes.

First it said cold, and after unplugging and plugging it, again it shows hot.

I like clever people. Thx !

How do you protect the stuff from getting wet?

How do you waterproof this repair? I have it electrical tape wrapped, but I don't know if that is enough. If the potentiometer gets wet, will that cause an issue?

If you are correct that the thermistor in these cells increases in resistance as the temperature increases (PTC type instead of NTC type), then you can use something called a gel filled inline telecom splice. You won't have to cut the cell's wires at all or use wire nuts (or equivalent). A telecom splice has a slot along one side that you use to wrap around the existing wire (without cutting it), and a hole you use to insert the new wire (that you want to go to the potentiometer). You then use pliers to press the cap down which causes metal fingers inside the splice to pierce both wires insulation without cutting the wires, which makes a splice connection like a TEE. The gel in it squishes around the wires and protects the splice from water which can interfere with the signal. You do that with both the salt cell wires you want to splice into. The potentiometer will then be wired in parallel to the thermistor which will lower the overall resistance of the circuit according to the amount you turn the potentiometer. Using splices this way will only work if you are correct that the thermistor is a PTC type (positive temperature coefficient) which increases resistance as the temperature increases, and if the thermistor is not internally shorted to ground. You can then mount the potentiometer in a weather safe box to keep water (especially salt water) away from the potentiometer and hte signal wires, which would affect the temperature setting you are going for. HOWEVER, If the thermistor is a NTC type (negative temperature coefficient) then using a splice in this way will not work, because for those thermistors a maximum temperature will result in a very low resistance or a short circuit. I do wonder, however, whether the temperature circuit is only for optimizing power usage or if it is for fire safety. i.e. The control board will change the plate energizing power depending on the water temperature. Enough power to break the chloring ions from the sodium chloride. If the circuit is actually capable of applying way too much power, and the water chemistry is basic, the cell might also become a hydrogen generator which could be dangerous. So, when you're lying to the control board, what is the actual consequence or risk if the actual water temperature is different from what the board thinks is the water temperature? I'm assuming that most people will not go out and adjust the potentiometer every time it changed by 10 degrees or more to make sure it stays in a safe range.

Thank you for the video. This fixed my issue also. Saved me $1,000 on a new cell.

Thanks for the info...I tried the potentiometer trick & it seemed to work as I could turn control on the pot & it would change temp on control panel..And when I tested my old cell in a large bucket of water it created a generous 'cloud' of chlorine, but when I reinstalled salt cell into pool plumbing, I get absolutely ZERO chlorine at the pool return jets..No cloud, no bubbles, & no chlorine detected on test strips!! what am I doing wrong???

Great video! Have you figured out how to Fix the T15 cell when it does not give the correct salt reading? Mine says check salt - I tried a aftermarket cell - it generates salt now but does not read correct salt level, returning it & ordering another Hayward next spring. Seems they last just over 3 years.

Great video, I had this same problem, and this was great help and it solved my problem.

Thank you good sir. Taught me something and saved me money. Greatly appreciated.

Thank you good sir. Taught me something and saved me money. Greatly appreciated.