THE TRADITIONALIST - Chapter Three
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- In this new 3-part series from acclaimed film-maker Andrea Cossu, we follow Jacopo as he travels from Europe, to America and the UK to gain a deeper understanding of trad-climbing as an art-form, it’s diverse community, culture, ethics and history - exploring what ‘hard-trad’ actually means and whether, when push comes to shove, the grades actually matter.
Chapter 3 | Mainland Europe
Last but not least, we’re back in mainland Europe, where it all began for Jacopo. He takes us to some of his favourite spots and we get to follow along as Jacopo repeats some of the area’s hardest routes, some new first ascents and some hard retro-trad. Summing up his experiences across all three chapters, Jacopo gives his perspective on the bright future for European Trad Climbing and what it means to him.
been a great series- some impressive climbs!
that skyhook was madness. Bold and proud. I'll be waiting in the car.
Whooah, that boulder into trad route is awesome!
That looks like pretty much a guaranteed ground fall on Jeune et Con if you fall in the top part? Crazy first ascent!
( It's an act of not being selfish), beautiful series, beautiful words. Thank You
Thanks Jacopo, helps a lot!
It's a good thing that this debate of leaving the rock as nude, not modified reappears.
But in fact, it's an old debate from the late 70's- 80's beginning when the french approach of spit/safety/performance won over américain/english approach of commiting/risks/performance.
Every climber should try trad climbing in his career, it's richer than sport climbing.
I think it comes to two questions: If route is possible to protect with trad gear then why bolt? And if route is impossible to protect or is extremely dangerous with trad gear then why not bolt it?
Perhaps because what is dangerous/impossible for this generation may be safe/possible for future ones? Standards are always improving. Once a route's bolted that's it.
their*
That skyhook
This made me happy. : ) Rad video.
Those were some wild tactics! Psyched to see it!
I'm not sure these videos sell the message of 'safe' trad climbing well, with the routes Jacopo does and the methods he uses! Beautiful to watch...and for those unfamiliar with trad climbing, there really are plenty of better protected, less run out routes to try with trad!
I couldn't have said it better: bolting creates irreversible damage to the rock - trad leaves it as it has been for thousands of years - for the generations to come. Great climbing and spectacular routes! 💚🔥👊🏼💪🏼🙏🏼
I do think that INTO THE SUN ought to be an 8C+ Boulder problem and left at that. Traditionally speaking of course. Thoughts?
I (surely not speaking from personal experience) doubt it would qualify as an 8C+ boulder problem. Jacopo definitely doesn't boulder 8C+ and given that both Bernd and Jacopo specifically gave it a route grade, the boulder should not be much harder than 8B+. But this is pointless. I'd just agree with the esteemed ascentionists who think it's an 8c+ route which is dominated by a difficult boulder problem. ^^
I like how rhetorical shoes change mid pitch. I wish I could do that
I’m really inspired by Jacopo and his approach to climbing. However, given his notoriety, I’m wondering why he doesn’t use helmet. I know it’s a personal choice, but with so many other people approaching climbing and especially trad, I guess he might influence people not to wear it
LGBT camp for 12 and up to expore..
Genius
Great stuff. But again with this crazy loud soundtrack. Really detracts.
ummmm sorry can you stop with this Yank stuff...the Orco Valley is in a country called ''Italy'' yes it's the European Union but the European Union is not a country....
Beatiful serie of videos, Jacopo and the filmakers make me feel completly in love with the climbing and the TRAD.
I love the philosophy of Jacobo! Its radical on the mind and makes you reconsider your mindset on normalized things like climbing nowdays. Huge respect!
I understand "Europeans" not thinking of the UK and Ireland as "Europe" but the Nordic countries are Europe and lots of trad climbing in Norway, Sweden and Finland! There's even some in Denmark, on Bornholm i believe. 😀
The UK is part of Europe! It's just not a member of the EU anymore.
Yeah, he should have said "continental Europe". That said, I don't think he was ignorant here. He specifically said that due to there not being a "big" trad tradition many high-end routes have been bolted across continental Europe for decades. Almost all cutting-edge climbers in continental Europe have approached routes from a sport climbing point of view for almost 4 decades now. This doesn't mean that there isn't plenty of good, hard trad climbing across the continent but probably not for Jacopo who is a trad climber who can climb sport up to 9a+.
I was expecting the simpsons intro song for a second there :D
Some of these are just free soloing with a rope, but OK 😅
Does anybody know the name or location of the last route? Like the bolted one with the mini lake to the left
Was gonna ask the same thing. It looks amazing
@@samzeller448 if nobody knows im gonna dm jacopo😂
looks like it's in Orco
How is Murgtal in the Black Forest??? It‘s pretty far away from it.
Best video series from TNF in a long time!
That was a nice free solo ascent of June et con!!
Great series. Would love to see one focussing on Babsi. She's an equally impressive climber.
European union ≠ Europe...
7:36 First Accent awaiting. Traditional. Slab. Hmmmm.. Anna Hazelnut!!??
"Wating for" is how the route is called 😅
😂😂 of course it is! Silly me