Thank you sir! Clear cut and easy to follow! NO stupid music or 'wow/golly-gee/boy-howdy' lookitme stuff! Actual information! And for that, kind sir, thank you! It's been years since I've tackled this project and it was nice to see someone's video who just wanted to get the job done! Thank you!
Great video Peter. I have used this method in the past and it works very well. People might wonder why you even did this. I know you touched on it a little bit but to those that didn't understand why he replaced the valve guide seals it's because the seal wear out and get hard then oil gets past the seal and gets on top of the piston mixing with the fuel causing the engine to smoke when you drive it. Blue smoke means oil is being burnt and Black smoke is to much gas being burnt and not enough air.
Glad I found this video. I need to replace seals in an old homelite outboard (crosley engine) and the head is part of the block. Only way to pull the valves is to pull the crank and pistons.
Awesome! A buddy of mine and I did this exactly the same way including the old spark plug modification to make the tool but gave bever seen it again until now. Going to do one of my F150's next and you reminded of a step or two I had forgotten. Thanks from Minnesota 🇺🇸
Great videos, I'm just about to watch Part 3. Watching you reminds me how much I miss rebuilding engines, I've not touch one for 30 years apart from servicing my vehicles when I had a young family to save some money!
Great series re Junkyard V8 videos, thanks Peter. Suggestion: when making a tool from a spark plug, just grip the metal hex base of the plug in a lathe chuck & turn off the small folded-over lip at the base of the porcelain, & presto it just pulls out with no porcelain dust hazard. Keep up the good work.
Good stuff man! My 1970 Pontiac Tempest has got an issue like, misfiring #7 I had a Rocker wearout I'd suppose these would be next. Thank for being a great predecessor!
Love ya work, you give a lot of help to so many and that's why I like you not just because your a Ford man, I'm a ford man so I've done a lot of the things you do and this one with the spark plug I did about 20 years a go and still have the tools you never know I mite need to do that again ( I'm 68 I don't think so ) but what I do need is a short Big bearing 9" axle ? keep up the good work , your new best friend , Spider ha ha
Nice video once again Peter. Love your work. I'm currently restoring a 74 TD Cortina and get a lot of inspiration, motivation and tips from your videos. Thanks very much. BTW I grew up in Ringwood during the 70's and 80's, so love seeing your little drive arounds.
I'm enjoying the "Junkyard V8" trilogy, but feel compelled to mention that a static leak down tester can be had that will not only determine cylinder leakage without relying on pumped up lifters, it can also be used as a tool to pressurize cylinders for the purpose of replacing valve seals. I reckon that the old compression tester could be fitted with an air pressure fitting as well. Anyway, I'll go back to watching now, thanks for the entertaining vids!
Piston, cylinder and rings degradation is quite unluckily if combustion chamber pressure is correct - very instructive and transparent explanations. Oil trial gives fast outlook about valves condition.
I've done this on a SOHC V6. But I used a completely different technique. I fed in a whole lot of nylon rope into the spark plug hole and turned the crank until the piston was pushing the rope up against the valves.
Great... But I would do one additional thing because the valve covers are off, I would check the torque of the cylinder head bolts. This is the best time to do. You might be surprised at how many bolts loosen up even a little bit! Saves a potential head gasket failure! Do it now!
Cool. after watching I'm concluding this will for the four cylinder cars too. Need to use the old stock spark plug for your four cylinder engine. Another tools add to my tool box, mopar guy besides Mitsu/Nissan.
Thanks mate... not sure if it will burble though; it's got a 6 cylinder XW muffler, a restrictive exhaust and lifter preload that's all over the joint... fingers crossed at this end...
nicely done pete, i did them on my zj it killed my back but well worth it :-) she ran well too in the other video. i don't hear many $300 clevo's with out tappet rattle haha
Goodson has tools and OTC has tools. Kent-Moore has tools. OTC has a lifter bleed-down wrench and a valve spring compressor. Also parts stores have a valve spring compressor. Goodson has valve seal tools. Use a magnet to hold keepers. Goodson has valve seal pliers for gripping the seal.
Hi Pete, those std rubber seals are crap. They harden & split and can get sucked into the oil pump and jam it solid, as happened to me once. The old trick is to use datto 180b seals, very similar to the viton type you get nowadays. Just an FYI.
hey peter! looking for some advice on 351 c 2v heads. mine are looking sick, they valve float @5500 rpm and stem height and valves seem uneven. i have to race in september and dont have a lot of $. do you think i could put a set of 1977 400m heads of of a lincoln? would they fit? would the combustion chambers be bigger? would i loose power? I run a demon carb, 150 hp nos plate, edelbrock performer 351c 2v manifold & headers comp cam & 4:11 gears. just don't really trust the heads i got and need a temparary fix! valve springs are 4v with shims under and valve springs are rattling around on the heads! just let me know if its a good idea or not. asking because I know you always answer back! Cheers Peter! from British Columbia Canada.
Nice work mate, thinking of doing this on my 351 but motor is in the car so Im a bit paranoid about dropping collets etc What is the spring compressor tool called exactly or is there a specific one you can recommend? Cheers
I'm really enjoying your videos! Just was wondering if your compression tester is similar to mine. On mine you can unscrew the spark plug fitting end and take out the schrader valve (the tire valve spring thing ...LOL!) out and then you can blow air straight through it and use it to float your valves closed like the tool you made. I haven't looked at my compression gauge in awhile but its seems like you just unscrew and take off the gauge end and put on a male air compressor fitting and you're all set.
Worst case I've seen the harden seals break apart, mix with the oil get sucked into the oil pump and lock it up. The distributor drive shaft will twist into a spiral candy cane
Another option for doing a job like this if you don't have compressed air lines is to use a length of electrical flex, like the power lead off a domestic appliance, feed it into the cylinder so that it coils round on top of the piston and then bring the piston up until the flex is pressed up against the valves and holding them closed. Obviously don't feed the whole length into the cylinder as you can't get it out again and you'll be taking the head off ;anyway (don't laugh, I've seen it done quite a few times) and do be aware that using the flex may not be suitable for use on modern multi-valve engines because the valves are at more of an angle so if a valve is being held open (sticking valves seems to be a common problem on pretty much all modern multi-valve engines, especially when they've been neglected) when you compress the flex you can easily bend a valve which means you'll be lifting the head anyway. But it's a technique that seems to work well for older vehicles... It's not just the Cleveland engines, pretty much all Ford engines from the '70s and '80s (in Europe at least) seem to be prone to puffing oil due to worn valve stem oil seals and a lot seem to suffer valve guide problems too...
Haha, that's an old Paul Hogan line from the Australian Tourism adverts in the 80's... The ironic part is that we never call them shrimps, they've always been known as prawns. Aussies think of shrimps as tiny little critters like Brine Shrimps etc. Thanks for the comments, Cheers
I can hear air leaking and your compressor coming so I assume its normal for air to leak out even at tdc with valves closed? I attempted this yesterday but couldn't get the cylinder to not leak and thought I was doing something wrong and was worried about loosing the valve in the cylinder. I have a really small compressor and it was turning on every 30 seconds. Is that normal?
Great video Pete. Love your work. Have you done a series on a six cylinder Ford build? Is the air tool necessary? Why not just turn the crank by hand and lock it off? Cheers mate, enjoy your vids.
Because you need the valve to stay up all the way- holding the piston at top dead centre won't allow this as there is free fall where the valve comes out of the seat and out of the compression chamber before it rests on the piston
+Ae Leilua the compressed air is only fed into one cylinder. Peter used the air to push #1 to the bottom of its stroke and worked on #4 which was at TDC on its compression stroke. So the air from the compressor doesn't have any effect on the valves he was working on. You don't need compressed air to turn the crankshaft. If it's the air compressed in the cylinder you're working on that keeps the valve up then again it's not the air compressed by the cylinder. So what is it doing if you lock the crankshaft mechanically?
Hey Jeff, the compressed air needs to be moved to the cylinder being worked on. it holds the valves flush up against the cylinder head. Locking the piston at TDC does not stop valve travel. It will still move the length of the combustion chamber and the depression if any on the piston head.
+Ae Leilua fair enough, thanks. That's what I originally thought but I didn't pick up that Peter does that. Guess I get to make one after all. Will 100psi do the job?
yeah thats plenty. I'm in the middle of a high performance cleveland rebuild, but i have a valve stem seal replacement job on a BMW 318 N42 Engine- nightmare
I'm sorry I re-watched the video now I finally understand. When you pressurize cylinder to bottom dead Center you work on the corresponding piston that's at top dead center. So that if anything happens it can catch the valve from falling into the abyss.
+EA Jam - Right !!! I assumed that is what he's doing and most People doing the same thing. By using Air Pressure, the Valve Stem won't drop down. I have also seen People using rope and coil it up there to prevent the Stem Valve from dropping down as well. Most People I have talked to..., they said if you go this far, might as well replace the Head Gasket too if it hasn't been replaced! NOTE: That way you don't have to worry about the Valve or anything dropping etc.... It will be easier too they said.
+Jordan Bronson the whole idea is to NOT have to pull the heads.. not sure who you talked to... it is most certainly NOT easier to pull heads.. and with adequate air pressure, (or rope, it works too..)there no chance of dropping a valve.. NONE.. so this method is perfect.. and as far as "might as well change head gasket"... once again, dunno who you talked to but.. unlike seals, gaskets are NOT a wear item.. with good gaskets, torqued properly.. there's no reason to expect failure from normal use.. head gaskets usually fail from other failures.. like overheating.. heads warping.. lean burn.. high compression/race conditions.. etc.. so, if valve guide seals are all you need.. why go to the trouble to pull the heads and change gaskets.. make ZERO sense.. on most cars, that means pulling intake/exhaust... front accessories like alternator / a/c compressor / ps pump.. and in some cases the distributor (if equipped) wiring, vacuum/fuel lines, water pump and cam/s if its an D/OHC model.. maybe even front cover.. etc.. .. and in some cases, to pull heads means removing the engine completely... unless you need other internal engine work or valve job or an actual blown head gasket something.. no need to pull heads for seals, springs, rockers, push rods, etc... pulling head are a pain.. save that work for when it's necessary... be careful who you take advice from... recommending to replace head gaskets and pull heads for guide seal replacement is either a crook (if it's a mechanic charging you) or an idiot (the rest)...
Most auto-parts stores here in the states anyway have tools you can borrow or rent. I made the mistake of buying one at "Harbor Freight" and it kept slipping off the spring and was not up to the job.
I've never been into the top end of an engine so i dont really know, but why did you push the valves up with compressed air? Couldn't you just rotate the crank until tdc for each cylinder?
+Danny Moreno - I have also seen People using rope and coil it up there to prevent the Stem Valve from dropping down as well. Most People I have talked to..., they said if you go this far, might as well replace the Head Gasket too if it hasn't been replaced! NOTE: That way you don't have to worry about the Valve or anything dropping etc.... It will be easier too they said.
I actually used a length of cotton rope shoved in the spark plug hole and ran the piston to TDC to hold the valve up. It worked but it was a bit more work as the engine was still in my truck.
No sir, this one is from a company called Blue Point... I think it's a subsidiary of Snap-On, an American company. It belongs to my brother, not sure where he bought it, but I know he buys a lot of stuff from Summit Racing in the USA... don't think he's ever set foot in a Supercheap shop. I bought some seat covers there once for my mothers car and my brother did as well from another place, anyway she liked his better. They wouldn't give me a refund, just a credit note for one of their shops which was only valid for a year... So, I have never shopped there since.
Yeah I wish we still had roc a bros here in sa it was a great store and company back in the day I did a quick search on super cheap site they do have it but it's an online purchase from Toledo anyway thanks for the tinkering videos with the motors it reminds me of dad when he used to tinker with the Holden motors I wish they could do that now without all of the crap that gets in your way of working on the motors yet still keep the reliability oh well let's hope there is a young designer or engineer out there that can see the mistakes of the past and rectify them, oh by the way it's been a long time since I've been called sir, if ever lol. cheers thanks Peter
Why go through all that trouble when you can buy a value stem seal tool, for a lot cheaper than the welder and other tools required just to build one, also looks like more to show off your skill set, lol :)
So you got slated for your seat cover cleaning video. Jeez, most people that are likely to attempt to do that job the way you did it are likely to be fairly experienced tinkerers and so will have the tools already, with the possible exception of the pliers for the retaining clips and they're cheap enough. In fact I know people who have made their own by modifying needle-nose pliers. Some people need to get a life and apply a bit of common sense, this isn't going to be the kind of job someone is likely to attempt for their first rodeo...
Thanks and yes I agree, although it wasn't a brilliant video. Whatever the case, that type of thing happens everywhere, so the pseudo experts don't faze me. Cheers Peter
Peter Anderson I don't know, it clearly showed the kind of job someone is in for if they want to clean their car seat upholstery that way. It's not the easiest way of doing it but it is more thorough than using a steam cleaner or a wet vac because it allows you the opportunity to clean the padding too, and it may well be beneficial for people with sensitive skin who find that the chemicals used in steam cleaners cause them irritation...
Hi Peter, very nice videos keep them coming, the car that was your dad's looks like our UK Ford Granada mk2 model, i had a mk1 mk2 and a mk3 Ford Granada's that car of your dad's looks really nice and your going to stop it smoking at start up i know what you mean my mk2 smoked at start up as well and when you put the engine under load if you know that i mean, Here is a link to our Ford Granada's and what they looked like but it says Europe but they are the same car in the UK, all the best Jim from the UK, en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Granada_(Europe)
Thanks for the comments Jim. Yes I knew these old Fords were based on the Granada. At the time my father bought the car, we were religiously watching The Professionals which featured one as Gordon Jackson's car. The Falcon is a little larger, but the appearance is very similar... I always wanted a Capri 2.8 Injection or 3.0 S... we never saw them in Australia, but the desire for one is still ever present. Cheers Peter
You would think that some making a public video would take effort to speak slowly and clearly, not in selfish muffled pronunciation that satisfies only the speaker.
An uninformed critique... Allow me to articulate; I'm usually alone as I work and use no script. I think of what to say as I carry out tasks... I also try to consider what may lie ahead, which arms the viewer with information pertinent to a safe and effective repair. I also set up a camera, all the while attempting to provide a clear shot of what I'm doing. Then of course, I need to concentrate. So in a nutshell, the act of filming an event such as this is less selfish than merely doing it alone, which could barely be construed as selfish in the first place… it’s merely disseminating information and imparting knowledge. Priorities please.
+Richard Ranney There was nothing wrong with Peter's speech. Just maybe, the true problems here are to be found on the sides of your head. Get 'em cleaned out, and you'll be just fine.
Thank you sir! Clear cut and easy to follow! NO stupid music or 'wow/golly-gee/boy-howdy' lookitme stuff! Actual information! And for that, kind sir, thank you! It's been years since I've tackled this project and it was nice to see someone's video who just wanted to get the job done! Thank you!
Good to see a bench where everything has it's place.
Great video Peter. I have used this method in the past and it works very well. People might wonder why you even did this. I know you touched on it a little bit but to those that didn't understand why he replaced the valve guide seals it's because the seal wear out and get hard then oil gets past the seal and gets on top of the piston mixing with the fuel causing the engine to smoke when you drive it. Blue smoke means oil is being burnt and Black smoke is to much gas being burnt and not enough air.
Glad I found this video. I need to replace seals in an old homelite outboard (crosley engine) and the head is part of the block. Only way to pull the valves is to pull the crank and pistons.
Awesome! A buddy of mine and I did this exactly the same way including the old spark plug modification to make the tool but gave bever seen it again until now. Going to do one of my F150's next and you reminded of a step or two I had forgotten. Thanks from Minnesota 🇺🇸
Great videos, I'm just about to watch Part 3. Watching you reminds me how much I miss rebuilding engines, I've not touch one for 30 years apart from servicing my vehicles when I had a young family to save some money!
Great series re Junkyard V8 videos, thanks Peter. Suggestion: when making a tool from a spark plug, just grip the metal hex base of the plug in a lathe chuck & turn off the small folded-over lip at the base of the porcelain, & presto it just pulls out with no porcelain dust hazard. Keep up the good work.
Now that is a good tip... thanks!
Good stuff man!
My 1970 Pontiac Tempest has got an issue like, misfiring #7 I had a Rocker wearout I'd suppose these would be next.
Thank for being a great predecessor!
Hi Peter, we used to fed some soft rope into the cylinder and slowly turn the piston up to keep the valve from dropping
Love ya work, you give a lot of help to so many and that's why I like you not just because your a Ford man, I'm a ford man so I've done a lot of the things you do and this one with the spark plug I did about 20 years a go and still have the tools you never know I mite need to do that again ( I'm 68 I don't think so ) but what I do need is a short Big bearing 9" axle ? keep up the good work , your new best friend , Spider ha ha
Nice video once again Peter. Love your work. I'm currently restoring a 74 TD Cortina and get a lot of inspiration, motivation and tips from your videos. Thanks very much.
BTW I grew up in Ringwood during the 70's and 80's, so love seeing your little drive arounds.
Cool... Ringwood's too busy now, crowded streets, parking restrictions etc. Not nearly as nice as it used to be. Thanks for the comments. Cheers
good video keep up the good work, people like you are what make youtube great source
I'm enjoying the "Junkyard V8" trilogy, but feel compelled to mention that a static leak down tester can be had that will not only determine cylinder leakage without relying on pumped up lifters, it can also be used as a tool to pressurize cylinders for the purpose of replacing valve seals. I reckon that the old compression tester could be fitted with an air pressure fitting as well. Anyway, I'll go back to watching now, thanks for the entertaining vids!
Hello Mr. Anderson. Love watching your videos. I have learned a lot from them. Can't wait to hear that old engine when you fire it up.
Thank you for the kind comment sir. With much trepidation, it should be ready to start in around a week - very busy at the moment. Cheers
Piston, cylinder and rings degradation is quite unluckily if combustion chamber pressure is correct - very instructive and transparent explanations. Oil trial gives fast outlook about valves condition.
Hi Peter, thanks for another great video. Looking forward to seeing the old girl run!
Ditto... may run well or like a chaff cutter - time will tell. Cheers
I'm looking forward to seeing the 302 Cleveland run. Great video, thanks.
Thanks Bruce, me too. Cheers
Clothesline put in a cylinder can be used as a engine-lock to lock the engine for removing the crank bolt and tightening.
We always used the appropriate sized socket covered with a rag then whacked it with a hammer. The rag contains the keepers.
good video i love these types of videos because i want to be a F1 driver and you got know how the car works to drive it
great video! helped me change my seals thank you very well explained!
I've been using that same idea to replace springs and keepers for years.
@Tobias Zayden nice !
@Luis Erik hope it works out for you.
I've done this on a SOHC V6. But I used a completely different technique. I fed in a whole lot of nylon rope into the spark plug hole and turned the crank until the piston was pushing the rope up against the valves.
Great... But I would do one additional thing because the valve covers are off, I would check the torque of the cylinder head bolts. This is the best time to do. You might be surprised at how many bolts loosen up even a little bit! Saves a potential head gasket failure! Do it now!
Here in the States, I believe you can "rent" a compression tester tool at auto parts stores like AutoZone.. Excellent video, thanks.
Great clear and nifty set up! Thx , subscribed
Cool. after watching I'm concluding this will for the four cylinder cars too. Need to use the old stock spark plug for your four cylinder engine. Another tools add to my tool box, mopar guy besides Mitsu/Nissan.
great video peter. you made quick work of those old stem seals! impressive stuff mate
Very cool way of doing a painful job. Certainly easier to do with engine out of the car too.
The 3rd video is the one im keen to see!
Thanks mate, I reckon it's going to rattle it's head off... lifter pre-load is all over the shop - a few knackered valve seats perhaps...
Great video Peter, you are a great teacher.. Thanks so much!!
another excellent tutorial Peter. Much appreciated.
hi peter another great video mate, cant wait to see it running.
Thanks Scott... shouldn't be too long now.
great job tool making, and good demonstration.
Cant wait to hear the beast burble into life. Great video.
Thanks mate... not sure if it will burble though; it's got a 6 cylinder XW muffler, a restrictive exhaust and lifter preload that's all over the joint... fingers crossed at this end...
nicely done pete, i did them on my zj it killed my back but well worth it :-) she ran well too in the other video. i don't hear many $300 clevo's with out tappet rattle haha
Goodson has tools and OTC has tools. Kent-Moore has tools. OTC has a lifter bleed-down wrench and a valve spring compressor. Also parts stores have a valve spring compressor. Goodson has valve seal tools. Use a magnet to hold keepers. Goodson has valve seal pliers for gripping the seal.
Hi Pete, those std rubber seals are crap. They harden & split and can get sucked into the oil pump and jam it solid, as happened to me once. The old trick is to use datto 180b seals, very similar to the viton type you get nowadays. Just an FYI.
Good work Groucho. Great trick.
Thanks Chopper
+Peter Anderson Lol touche! Loving your videos mate
Thanks for the comment, glad you like them. Cheers
Excellent Video
Great video . Such good advice.
Thank you Peter, glad you liked it!
Looks like it will be a nice runner.
G'day Peter love your stuff great videos keep up the good work. :) Bloody Melbourne weather
Melbourne weather indeed - four seasons in a single day! Glad you liked the video. Cheers Peter
hey peter! looking for some advice on 351 c 2v heads. mine are looking sick, they valve float @5500 rpm and stem height and valves seem uneven. i have to race in september and dont have a lot of $. do you think i could put a set of 1977 400m heads of of a lincoln? would they fit? would the combustion chambers be bigger? would i loose power? I run a demon carb, 150 hp nos plate, edelbrock performer 351c 2v manifold & headers comp cam & 4:11 gears. just don't really trust the heads i got and need a temparary fix! valve springs are 4v with shims under and valve springs are rattling around on the heads! just let me know if its a good idea or not. asking because I know you always answer back! Cheers Peter! from British Columbia Canada.
Hi Peter, great video, any advice on doing this to a 250 crossflow that has been pulled apart?
I liked this video just because of your mustache!
Great video, thank you!
Nice work mate, thinking of doing this on my 351 but motor is in the car so Im a bit paranoid about dropping collets etc
What is the spring compressor tool called exactly or is there a specific one you can recommend? Cheers
I'm really enjoying your videos!
Just was wondering if your compression tester is similar to mine.
On mine you can unscrew the spark plug fitting end and take out the schrader valve (the tire valve spring thing ...LOL!) out and then you can blow air straight through it and use it to float your valves closed like the tool you made. I haven't looked at my compression gauge in awhile but its seems like you just unscrew and take off the gauge end and put on a male air compressor fitting and you're all set.
Did my slant six this way. Easy peasy
Worst case I've seen the harden seals break apart, mix with the oil get sucked into the oil pump and lock it up. The distributor drive shaft will twist into a spiral candy cane
Won't the sharp edges of the keeper groove nick the seal if you don't use the installation sleeve,it only takes 2 seconds to put the sleeve on
Nicely done.
Now all you need is a big solid roller cam lol
Peter whats the name of the tool you used to compress the valve spring?
Another option for doing a job like this if you don't have compressed air lines is to use a length of electrical flex, like the power lead off a domestic appliance, feed it into the cylinder so that it coils round on top of the piston and then bring the piston up until the flex is pressed up against the valves and holding them closed. Obviously don't feed the whole length into the cylinder as you can't get it out again and you'll be taking the head off ;anyway (don't laugh, I've seen it done quite a few times) and do be aware that using the flex may not be suitable for use on modern multi-valve engines because the valves are at more of an angle so if a valve is being held open (sticking valves seems to be a common problem on pretty much all modern multi-valve engines, especially when they've been neglected) when you compress the flex you can easily bend a valve which means you'll be lifting the head anyway. But it's a technique that seems to work well for older vehicles...
It's not just the Cleveland engines, pretty much all Ford engines from the '70s and '80s (in Europe at least) seem to be prone to puffing oil due to worn valve stem oil seals and a lot seem to suffer valve guide problems too...
Hi Peter. Great uploads. interested on what psi you pressurized the chambers.
Hi Chris, It was around 50psi. It was well under half of what the compressor can deliver. Cheers Peter
As soon as I heard the crows... I immediately thought of Mad Max...? :) Lol
What model is that Falcon, that you replaced the Valve Stem on it looks beautiful!
When he says “lock the crank” what does he mean?
Great video. Makes me miss my 351 Cleveland Cougar
Can you do a How to Barbecue shrimp video? I keep hearing how popular that is in Australia
Haha, that's an old Paul Hogan line from the Australian Tourism adverts in the 80's... The ironic part is that we never call them shrimps, they've always been known as prawns. Aussies think of shrimps as tiny little critters like Brine Shrimps etc. Thanks for the comments, Cheers
Just use the fitting from your compression tester
I have a question, does it have to have those caps on top of the springs?
Good work thanks for the lesson Las vegas nv
I can hear air leaking and your compressor coming so I assume its normal for air to leak out even at tdc with valves closed? I attempted this yesterday but couldn't get the cylinder to not leak and thought I was doing something wrong and was worried about loosing the valve in the cylinder. I have a really small compressor and it was turning on every 30 seconds. Is that normal?
Great video Pete. Love your work. Have you done a series on a six cylinder Ford build? Is the air tool necessary? Why not just turn the crank by hand and lock it off? Cheers mate, enjoy your vids.
Because you need the valve to stay up all the way- holding the piston at top dead centre won't allow this as there is free fall where the valve comes out of the seat and out of the compression chamber before it rests on the piston
+Ae Leilua the compressed air is only fed into one cylinder. Peter used the air to push #1 to the bottom of its stroke and worked on #4 which was at TDC on its compression stroke. So the air from the compressor doesn't have any effect on the valves he was working on. You don't need compressed air to turn the crankshaft. If it's the air compressed in the cylinder you're working on that keeps the valve up then again it's not the air compressed by the cylinder. So what is it doing if you lock the crankshaft mechanically?
Hey Jeff, the compressed air needs to be moved to the cylinder being worked on. it holds the valves flush up against the cylinder head. Locking the piston at TDC does not stop valve travel. It will still move the length of the combustion chamber and the depression if any on the piston head.
+Ae Leilua fair enough, thanks. That's what I originally thought but I didn't pick up that Peter does that. Guess I get to make one after all. Will 100psi do the job?
yeah thats plenty. I'm in the middle of a high performance cleveland rebuild, but i have a valve stem seal replacement job on a BMW 318 N42 Engine- nightmare
must be champion plugs
Approximately how much air pressure do you need to hold up valves while replacing seals?
Absolutely, I'm really disliking these!
I'm sorry I re-watched the video now I finally understand. When you pressurize cylinder to bottom dead Center you work on the corresponding piston that's at top
dead center. So that if anything happens it can catch the valve from falling into the abyss.
Just skip to 7:59
I read the title as Valve Steam Sales, and got scared.
HAHAHAHAH
LOL
So you holded to valve by air pressure right ? But what if you pressed hard on the valve ? It would leaked the air and drop down right ?
No mate, the air pressure holds the valve closed. Cheers
+EA Jam - Right !!! I assumed that is what he's doing and most People doing the same thing. By using Air Pressure, the Valve Stem won't drop down. I have also seen People using rope and coil it up there to prevent the Stem Valve from dropping down as well. Most People I have talked to..., they said if you go this far, might as well replace the Head Gasket too if it hasn't been replaced! NOTE: That way you don't have to worry about the Valve or anything dropping etc.... It will be easier too they said.
+Jordan Bronson the whole idea is to NOT have to pull the heads.. not sure who you talked to... it is most certainly NOT easier to pull heads.. and with adequate air pressure, (or rope, it works too..)there no chance of dropping a valve.. NONE.. so this method is perfect.. and as far as "might as well change head gasket"... once again, dunno who you talked to but.. unlike seals, gaskets are NOT a wear item.. with good gaskets, torqued properly.. there's no reason to expect failure from normal use.. head gaskets usually fail from other failures.. like overheating.. heads warping.. lean burn.. high compression/race conditions.. etc.. so, if valve guide seals are all you need.. why go to the trouble to pull the heads and change gaskets.. make ZERO sense.. on most cars, that means pulling intake/exhaust... front accessories like alternator / a/c compressor / ps pump.. and in some cases the distributor (if equipped) wiring, vacuum/fuel lines, water pump and cam/s if its an D/OHC model.. maybe even front cover.. etc.. .. and in some cases, to pull heads means removing the engine completely... unless you need other internal engine work or valve job or an actual blown head gasket something.. no need to pull heads for seals, springs, rockers, push rods, etc... pulling head are a pain.. save that work for when it's necessary... be careful who you take advice from... recommending to replace head gaskets and pull heads for guide seal replacement is either a crook (if it's a mechanic charging you) or an idiot (the rest)...
Could really use a spring compressor like that. Who makes it?
Most auto-parts stores here in the states anyway have tools you can borrow or rent. I made the mistake of buying one at "Harbor Freight" and it kept slipping off the spring and was not up to the job.
I've never been into the top end of an engine so i dont really know, but why did you push the valves up with compressed air? Couldn't you just rotate the crank until tdc for each cylinder?
So they don't drop down into the cylinder when he removes the keepers. The air pressure hold them into their seats.
your very clever... good job
Hey Peter! Are you related to Ned Flanders by any chance?!😬😬😬
Seriously though, thanks for sharing the video!👍🏼👍🏼
So if i dont have have a pneumatic tool i just have to need a tool that will hold the valves from falling in?
+Danny Moreno - I have also seen People using rope and coil it up there to prevent the Stem Valve from dropping down as well. Most People I have talked to..., they said if you go this far, might as well replace the Head Gasket too if it hasn't been replaced! NOTE: That way you don't have to worry about the Valve or anything dropping etc.... It will be easier too they said.
+Danny Moreno - They stick soft rope into the cylinder and slowly turn the piston up to keep the valve from dropping!
ruddy legend
What about feeding rope in thru the plug holes and turning to tic Pete?
I actually used a length of cotton rope shoved in the spark plug hole and ran the piston to TDC to hold the valve up. It worked but it was a bit more work as the engine was still in my truck.
If your Dr. ever tells you that you have a kidney stone, it may be the particles that you punched out going into your coffee cup LOL
you sure do it the hard way.
Where do you get the valve Spring compressor ? Supercheap
No sir, this one is from a company called Blue Point... I think it's a subsidiary of Snap-On, an American company. It belongs to my brother, not sure where he bought it, but I know he buys a lot of stuff from Summit Racing in the USA... don't think he's ever set foot in a Supercheap shop. I bought some seat covers there once for my mothers car and my brother did as well from another place, anyway she liked his better. They wouldn't give me a refund, just a credit note for one of their shops which was only valid for a year... So, I have never shopped there since.
Yeah I wish we still had roc a bros here in sa it was a great store and company back in the day I did a quick search on super cheap site they do have it but it's an online purchase from Toledo anyway thanks for the tinkering videos with the motors it reminds me of dad when he used to tinker with the Holden motors I wish they could do that now without all of the crap that gets in your way of working on the motors yet still keep the reliability oh well let's hope there is a young designer or engineer out there that can see the mistakes of the past and rectify them, oh by the way it's been a long time since I've been called sir, if ever lol. cheers thanks Peter
That is a beautiful XD!
when are we gunna hear this clevo pete.
Wow Peter you talk so quick
It's aluminium oxide.
I forgot what it was about I thought it was on how to make a special tool
fuckin awesome vid - i might give this a go on my AU Falcon
Cheers mate, thanks.
Part 3?
the next video is called "How to Test and Run a Junkyard V8 - Part 3 FINAL"
fast way of doing things.
Why go through all that trouble when you can buy a value stem seal tool, for a lot cheaper than the welder and other tools required just to build one, also looks like more to show off your skill set, lol :)
Bet you got porcelain in your cuppa tea :)
genius!
Thanks!
Instructions not clear enough. Hand caught in vice and cat on fire.
That mustache
Wouldn't it be a lot easier and less time-consuming to just go out and buy the tool instead of going through all that trouble and time.
So you got slated for your seat cover cleaning video. Jeez, most people that are likely to attempt to do that job the way you did it are likely to be fairly experienced tinkerers and so will have the tools already, with the possible exception of the pliers for the retaining clips and they're cheap enough. In fact I know people who have made their own by modifying needle-nose pliers. Some people need to get a life and apply a bit of common sense, this isn't going to be the kind of job someone is likely to attempt for their first rodeo...
Thanks and yes I agree, although it wasn't a brilliant video. Whatever the case, that type of thing happens everywhere, so the pseudo experts don't faze me. Cheers Peter
Peter Anderson I don't know, it clearly showed the kind of job someone is in for if they want to clean their car seat upholstery that way. It's not the easiest way of doing it but it is more thorough than using a steam cleaner or a wet vac because it allows you the opportunity to clean the padding too, and it may well be beneficial for people with sensitive skin who find that the chemicals used in steam cleaners cause them irritation...
Cannot see from writing
Hi Peter, very nice videos keep them coming, the car that was your dad's looks like our UK Ford Granada mk2 model, i had a mk1 mk2 and a mk3 Ford Granada's that car of your dad's looks really nice and your going to stop it smoking at start up i know what you mean my mk2 smoked at start up as well and when you put the engine under load if you know that i mean, Here is a link to our Ford Granada's and what they looked like but it says Europe but they are the same car in the UK, all the best Jim from the UK, en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Granada_(Europe)
Thanks for the comments Jim. Yes I knew these old Fords were based on the Granada. At the time my father bought the car, we were religiously watching The Professionals which featured one as Gordon Jackson's car. The Falcon is a little larger, but the appearance is very similar... I always wanted a Capri 2.8 Injection or 3.0 S... we never saw them in Australia, but the desire for one is still ever present. Cheers Peter
You would think that some making a public video would take effort to speak slowly and clearly, not in selfish muffled pronunciation that satisfies only the speaker.
An uninformed critique... Allow me to articulate; I'm usually alone as I work and use no script. I think of what to say as I carry out tasks... I also try to consider what may lie ahead, which arms the viewer with information pertinent to a safe and effective repair. I also set up a camera, all the while attempting to provide a clear shot of what I'm doing. Then of course, I need to concentrate. So in a nutshell, the act of filming an event such as this is less selfish than merely doing it alone, which could barely be construed as selfish in the first place… it’s merely disseminating information and imparting knowledge. Priorities please.
+Richard Ranney
There was nothing wrong with Peter's speech.
Just maybe, the true problems here are to be found on the sides of your head.
Get 'em cleaned out, and you'll be just fine.