DIY 3D printed RC Car - Trophy Truck / ARES ( Scale 1:9 )
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video I show you the whole process of assembling this 3D printed RC Car - Trophy Truck from begin to end. So enjoy watching.
When you are interested about this RC Car and you want build your own.
Link for model:
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/...
www.printables.com/model/8476...
Complete list of non-printed material:
drive.google.com/file/d/11Osv...
Chapters:
0:00 Main chassis
0:56 Center gearbox
1:38 Brushless motor
2:18 Servo and steering
3:16 Front gearbox
3:59 independent suspension
6:22 CVD
7:18 Center shaft
8:42 ESC
9:00 Sides
10:21 Front sway bar
13:49 Rear part
16:37 Fire extinguishers
17:13 Fuel tank
17:53 Rear sway bar
19:30 Front light
20:18 Dashboard
20:32 Battery straps and receiver
21:14 Roof and lights
22:11 Front shocks
22:50 Rear links and shocks
23:51 Rear axle
25:48 Cardan shaft
26:40 Side holders
26:51 Floor and battery
27:41 hex hub
27:55 Body panels
28:42 Wheels
29:51 Test
34:15 Bad luck
#3dprinted #rccar #rc #3dprint #trophytruck
awesome, you should thicken up the shock oil for smoother performance tho
Thanks, I have already filled the shock absorbers with 1000 cst oil, but I would also like to try 2000 cst oil, but that will probably be too much :)
one of the best 3d printed master.. thnks for sharing
thank you very much
this is one of the best 3d printed rc car ever. you are the true master of this,
i really wonder how good it is with, 2200kv 4s, good tires, and some upgraded crash-sensitive parts to alloy,
the other thing, how it would behave with some silicon diff oils, would it leak?
Thanks a lot :)
With all these improvements it would be insane :D
I also bought some proper rubber wheels, so I'm definitely going to try it out on the 3S and I'll hope that the big stones stay out of my way.
I also thought about making some 7075 aluminum parts in the future :D
These diffs don't have seals so I have to use seals and try that (some differential oils are already on their way to me, so I'm curious)
top thnks for sharing
Thanks
Great job ❤
Thanks a lot ❤
NICE!!
Thanks
Dude very cool! I do want to build one of these!
Thank you very much, if you decide to build it, it will be quite an experience and fun :D
@@PatrikJKS I'm pretty new to the world of 3d printing, is it possible to scale down parts? I'm thinking about building a 1/18 trophy truck and I'm looking for a body.
@@makestuffbetter19
Well, the answer is yes and no, I'll explain it to you - Imagine an ordinary cube, when you scale it up or down, the size changes in all three axes, which is fine for an ordinary cube, you only change the size of the cube, nothing more, but if the cube has some holes in the given dimensions and between the holes there will be some given dimensions and you would start scaling the cube downwards so the holes would be smaller and also the dimensions between the holes would be shorter because the scale is applied in all three XYZ axes so nothing would fit together and if the cube was hollow and had a wall thickness of, say, 2 mm, so the same problem would end up with a very narrow wall, which would be very fragile if you 3D printed it.
So these are problems with the scaling of something like this.
By the way, the body has a wall thickness of 3 mm in 1/9 scale and in 1/18 scale it would be something around 1.6 mm, which is not so bad, but then the holes would also be smaller and so on.
I see. Thank you!
Epic build my friend!! Please start selling these in kit form. I would buy one😎🤙🏽
Thank you very much, hmm, maybe in the future I will start making some kits.🤙
I bought a great job
Thanks a lot
Been looking to try this, but instead of straight through bolts to nuts on the bottom, I'm going to use threaded inserts instead.
Can be, there should be enough space for threaded inserts.
I too plan on threaded inserts. I find that I have to tighten the screws on my 3Dsets cars fairly often due to PLA creep.
@@lasermike2147
Interesting, I didn't have to tighten the screws even once on the models I have.
@@PatrikJKS I have to tighten the swing arm ball joint screws almost every time I take the buggy out and there's a couple or three screws I find loose on the Landy every now and then.
@@lasermike2147
Hmm, just a thought, try using blue glue for the threads or glue with an acetone base, such as Pattex special repair plastic, so that it is possible to unscrew it in the future.
cool creation mann, what next?
Thanks, I'll pick something from my list, but probably buggy.
the parts list is missing the shaft that goes through the 64t wheel and transmits drive to the front and rear
It is there marked as a HSP rear shaft, but somehow assembly manual missing that one step with this 🙄 but I already fixed that bug so just redownload it.
I need this! I'm way too hard on my 3Dsets cars and want something I can bash a bit.
Yeah, when you're a little hard on the throttle, then you need a metal drivetrain. :)
@@PatrikJKS I was reprinting the engine cover and rear shock mount for the Buggy when I saw your video. Last month it was a front hub for the Landy and rear shaft for the Buggy. I've purchased your files and put together an Aliexpress cart. Can't say when I'll get it assembled but I will post a make on printables. Also looking forward to a buggy if you do create one.
@@lasermike2147
Wow, I'll definitely check it out when it's be done.
I started some initial buggy process. :)
I'm wondering how to make an independent rear suspension and a rally car body
You don't have to be wonder for long because in the future I also want to make a rally car. :)
What filament brand and type do you use?
I have to say first that I wanted to use petg but my preferred brands were sold out.
So the body and chassis are made of PLA from polymaker polyterra (strangely soft PLA material for these purposes, I just tried it).
The front suspension and some other parts are TPU 98A from Formfutura python flex.
The gold parts are PLA silk from Azurefilm.
The silver parts are PLA aluminum silver from Spectrum.
Bump stops are TPU 90A from Smartfil
Tires are TPU 82A from Recreus.
I used basically what I had.
Total cost of build parts including?
It depends on the actual price of the components, but something around €300 including screws, lights and non-printed rubber wheels (without battery and controller).
You can see the complete list of non-printed material in the description.
12 minutes of being triggered by upside down mounted LCAs :DD
Yeah, tell me about it :D
As I was concentrating on everything else, I didn't even notice that I put it upside down and when it came to mounting the front sway bar, I literally froze for a whole minute and looked at it and wondered what the F I done, at that moment it was just midnight so I decided to go ahead and finish it.
It's too bad that 3D printed plastic is such a horrible structural choice for this - it's a great model - but 3D printing is only the answer if you want something very heavy, very weak and poor performance.
I am quite happy with the strength and also with the performance.
Yes, 3d printed things are not the strongest, like for example molded nylon parts, but still I think that 3d printed things are not so bad, the specialy parts from TPU98A are quite strong.
You have a group on Facebook?
No, I don't have Facebook, only Instagram at the moment.
Good for u... Facebook is bad.@@PatrikJKS