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Thank you, Well, those are the limitations of 3D printing. The parts that need to withstand impact would have to be made of metal to withstand some really hard hits.

@@PatrikJKS Are you able to print in abs? I changed up my hot end and started using some abs with a larger nozzle and as long as you have your printer dialed in you should be able to make some really strong stuff. You can try carbon fiber nylon as well. That carbon stuff is corrosive to nzzles so make sure you buy a few extras to have on hand.!

@@Epsonblade Yes, I have modified 3d printing machines, so it is not a problem for me to print ABS and I also sometimes print from carbon fiber nylon (by the way, I use a nozzle with a ruby ​​tip), but personally I would prefer to use a very hard rubber such as 83D from innovatefil instead of carbon fiber nylon.. I'm not going to talk about why and how because it would be too long :) the last time I used a nozzle with a large diameter (1.2 mm) I was printing a vase from PP material :D

Me too :D

Thanks

Thanks, I have already filled the shock absorbers with 1000 cst oil, but I would also like to try 2000 cst oil, but that will probably be too much :)

Thanks a lot ❤

Well, yes, I had to sacrifice any adjustability for design style and simplicity. Thank you.

Thanks a lot :) With all these improvements it would be insane :D I also bought some proper rubber wheels, so I'm definitely going to try it out on the 3S and I'll hope that the big stones stay out of my way. I also thought about making some 7075 aluminum parts in the future :D These diffs don't have seals so I have to use seals and try that (some differential oils are already on their way to me, so I'm curious)

No, I don't have Facebook, only Instagram at the moment.

Good for u... Facebook is bad.​@@PatrikJKS

I am quite happy with the strength and also with the performance. Yes, 3d printed things are not the strongest, like for example molded nylon parts, but still I think that 3d printed things are not so bad, the specialy parts from TPU98A are quite strong.

Thank you very much, hmm, maybe in the future I will start making some kits.🤙

thank you very much

It depends on the actual price of the components, but something around €300 including screws, lights and non-printed rubber wheels (without battery and controller). You can see the complete list of non-printed material in the description.

Can be, there should be enough space for threaded inserts.

I too plan on threaded inserts. I find that I have to tighten the screws on my 3Dsets cars fairly often due to PLA creep.

@@lasermike2147 Interesting, I didn't have to tighten the screws even once on the models I have.

@@PatrikJKS I have to tighten the swing arm ball joint screws almost every time I take the buggy out and there's a couple or three screws I find loose on the Landy every now and then.

@@lasermike2147 Hmm, just a thought, try using blue glue for the threads or glue with an acetone base, such as Pattex special repair plastic, so that it is possible to unscrew it in the future.

Thank you very much, if you decide to build it, it will be quite an experience and fun :D

@@PatrikJKS I'm pretty new to the world of 3d printing, is it possible to scale down parts? I'm thinking about building a 1/18 trophy truck and I'm looking for a body.

@@makestuffbetter19 Well, the answer is yes and no, I'll explain it to you - Imagine an ordinary cube, when you scale it up or down, the size changes in all three axes, which is fine for an ordinary cube, you only change the size of the cube, nothing more, but if the cube has some holes in the given dimensions and between the holes there will be some given dimensions and you would start scaling the cube downwards so the holes would be smaller and also the dimensions between the holes would be shorter because the scale is applied in all three XYZ axes so nothing would fit together and if the cube was hollow and had a wall thickness of, say, 2 mm, so the same problem would end up with a very narrow wall, which would be very fragile if you 3D printed it. So these are problems with the scaling of something like this. By the way, the body has a wall thickness of 3 mm in 1/9 scale and in 1/18 scale it would be something around 1.6 mm, which is not so bad, but then the holes would also be smaller and so on.

I see. Thank you!

:D the secondary battery doesn't go anywhere, it's extra weight (the symmetrical distribution of the weight is a good thing) and an extra battery, and also when I was designing it, I thought about if in the future I make some accessories that will need power from the battery, it will be better if the battery is inside tractor and not somewhere on the attachment. Thank you, I wish you a successful build.

@@PatrikJKS Thank you for the quick reply :). Already printed the chassis and mudguards, now Im eagerly awaiting some bits and bobs from Aliexpress ^^

@@glowpipe Anytime :) Very good.

@@PatrikJKS Just one more quick question if you don't mind. On the non printed material list you have listed M4 Grub screws. Where are you using those? Ive looked through this video and the assembly pdf quite a few times, but i just can't seem to find out where they go

@@glowpipe These go for short cardan shafts because they don't come with that short cardan shaft originally. Normally it took me a while to remember where the screws go, you almost got me :D. (By the way, I'm currently working on an update for the tractor, it should be done within 2 or 3 weeks.)

It is there marked as a HSP rear shaft, but somehow assembly manual missing that one step with this 🙄 but I already fixed that bug so just redownload it.

Thanks

Yeah, tell me about it :D As I was concentrating on everything else, I didn't even notice that I put it upside down and when it came to mounting the front sway bar, I literally froze for a whole minute and looked at it and wondered what the F I done, at that moment it was just midnight so I decided to go ahead and finish it.

You don't have to be wonder for long because in the future I also want to make a rally car. :)

I have to say first that I wanted to use petg but my preferred brands were sold out. So the body and chassis are made of PLA from polymaker polyterra (strangely soft PLA material for these purposes, I just tried it). The front suspension and some other parts are TPU 98A from Formfutura python flex. The gold parts are PLA silk from Azurefilm. The silver parts are PLA aluminum silver from Spectrum. Bump stops are TPU 90A from Smartfil Tires are TPU 82A from Recreus. I used basically what I had.

Thanks a lot

Thanks, I'll pick something from my list, but probably buggy.

Yeah, when you're a little hard on the throttle, then you need a metal drivetrain. :)

@@PatrikJKS I was reprinting the engine cover and rear shock mount for the Buggy when I saw your video. Last month it was a front hub for the Landy and rear shaft for the Buggy. I've purchased your files and put together an Aliexpress cart. Can't say when I'll get it assembled but I will post a make on printables. Also looking forward to a buggy if you do create one.

@@lasermike2147 Wow, I'll definitely check it out when it's be done. I started some initial buggy process. :)

But it would be strange without music, I guess :)

Thanks to the TPU material, the durability is unbelievable, bigger jumps are not a problem, so I can say yes, it is a good basher.

Yup, this design has no camber adjustments or any other adjustments. I wanted to make a simple RC truggy for fun that is ready for beginners, but the truggy is pretty good in corners so I don't see any problem.

@@PatrikJKS Actually there is no reason why a "beginner" that at 18 years old take the driving licence and drive his first car should drive a car with no camber adjustment, caster, anti squat geometry, anti roll bars, small scrub radius and all other important suspension design parameters properly dialed in. The better the design, the better the handling, the easier is the car to drive. "Adjustment" does not mean you have to screw or unscrew something, it is an automatic compensation built in the geometry and kinematic of linkages, and every parameter changes in a controlled and desired manner when the suspension moves. The lack of any basic feature of a suspension system, is more for beginner designers, rather than drivers or builders (printing and assembling a good design is as difficult as printing and assembling a bad design). This said, probably 99% of those considering printing this car do not even know what is camber, caster, and how a suspension should work. It has 4 wheels, it steers, jumps over an obstacle, and can spin the wheels, that is enough.

@@marcobassini3576 Sure... You're looking at it from a real car perspective but this is a rc truggy for fun so it literally can't compare but I get you.

I personally using these filaments: formfutura.com/product/python-flex/ shop.fillamentum.com/collections/flexfill-tpu-flexible-filament/products/flexfill-tpu-98a-traffic-black www.smartmaterials3d.com/en/flex-98a#/2-size-m_750g/11-colour-true_black/26-shoes_size-175mm ( By the way I am currently preparing an update/optimization for TPU 95A hardness, just a few more days and the update will be out, I think ).

Thanks I meant something other that 98a. Or is that the only thing that will work with this?

@@scarfa21 (Ouch, sorry, my brain and eyes automatically replace the word substitution for recommendation :D ). So right now, yes, only TPU 98A will work properly, but as I mentioned, when the update is finished, it will be possible to use TPU 95A. But if you mean an overall different material than TPU, then the answer is no, there must be a combination of PETG and TPU material for proper functioning.

lol all good, cant wait for the update for 95A. I dont mind using 98A at all but its limited here in the states.@@PatrikJKS

@@scarfa21 Yes, I heard that it is limited in the states, so that is also the reason why I wanted to make an update for the 95A. by the way, the update is already done, so happy printing :)

Here are the stls for the model: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/rc-tractor-model-2

Probably not, for some parts it will be fine, but for some it will be too soft, for example arms and steering links. (a couple of people tried to print it from 95A, but I still don't know how it turned out.

Yes, the folder contains everything, some information on how to print, assembly manual, a list of nonprinted material with links, even a .step file with a complete design.

hello, maybe, I'll add it to the list of cars that I want to do. By the way NFS hot pursuit was one of my favorite games, so you literally brought me back some memories right now.

@@PatrikJKS Wow! That is super cool! This is my favorite racing game too! :-) I also want to design my rear wheel drive rc chassis with two direct outrunner motors in rear wheels. If you want you can take this as an idea for your any next projects

@@Big_smoke_N9 Nice 😁. Interesting thoughts on the chassis, maybe I'll take a better look at it in the future. Thanks.

Wow, it must have been a defective piece from the production, because otherwise I can't explain why it would crack at such a low load (10% throttle). I managed to bend one CVD joint and break two CVD joints, but all this at full throttle with a big jump and a very bad landing. By the way, I don't know if you noticed, but I recently made an update and now you can choose between CVD joint and Full dogbone joint or combine these two types.

​@@PatrikJKS The broken cvd was on the rear wheel so most likely defective. Yes, now you have two versions of rear hub carriers and steering knuckles and different body. Would you make a spare parts list? I will have to wait few weeks for spares from juzi,

@@martinlabis9805 Yep exactly, yes I think I can make a list of spare parts that are the most problematic or something like a recommendation for basic spare parts that are good to have.

Thank you very much. I think I know which landrover you mean.

Yes, as 3d printing advances and develops, and better materials are available for printing, it is actually possible to design something more durable. You know the more you design in CAD, the better and faster you will be, so just keep going. :) I modeled RC Tractor model 1 (unpublished version) for almost a year, RC Tractor model 2 for about half a year and Nomad for 1 month, so about.

Yes it sounds really good. It is ESS DUAL + Engine sound simulator www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002105628837.html (The link from which I ordered it is no longer available, but this is actually the same) And you will also need a servo extension cable 1 to 3 www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001652067232.html I hope to see a fully assembled nomad as soon as possible :)

So I can't tell you exactly which one is better because I've never tried robak 2 (by the way tarmo has a completely plastic drivetrain) but what I can say is that nomad can handle much bigger jumps than in the video and I haven't seen any video of robak 2 doing any big jumps I don't want to say that someone didn't try it and just didn't film it, I just want to say that you should ask people who have robak 2 and how their jumps are. Keep in mind that the nomad is specially designed for printing from TPU 98A material, which is a very durable material, which makes it pretty tough. Wow 10 years? it's time, welcome back :)

@@PatrikJKS Thank you for the reply. I just realised you're the designer of Nomad 😅. Love the looks of Nomad, can't wait to print it. Yeah I'm excited to go back to the hobby.

​@@JamesFabian It's OK. You know, I drew a line and a curve and something came out of it 😅. I will be happy if you try it and thank you.

wow, good question, I didn't count it exactly, but when I was shooting the video, I had fun for about 15 minutes and I still had enough battery, so probably the 20 minutes are realistic for the 5200mah 2S battery that I used.

So it will be close (178mm largest part) but yes you can print it, you just have to place the side wall diagonally on the bed of the printer. formfutura.com/product/python-flex/ www.3djake.com/3d-printer-filaments/flexible-filament?&f%5B39%5D=77&f%5B66%5D=619 shop.fillamentum.com/collections/flexfill-tpu-flexible-filament?filter.v.price.gte=&filter.v.price.lte=&filter.p.tag=98&sort_by=manual

Yeah definitely hehe

So I'm glad you're having a fun. 😁

Hi, thank you very much, I used Fiberlogy PLA ONYX www.3djake.com/fiberlogy/easy-pla-onyx

Thanks

Thanks very much

Quick question: did you have a problem only with the screw link or was there a problem with other links as well? because I've tried everything and only the link for screws is out of date.

hey @PatrikJKS , I used the list on Google Drive that opens when I klick on the link on printables. I just tried with VPN connecting to a US server, same result. Here is the list of links not working(at least not for me): HSP Gearbox - Link 2 HSP dogbone drive shaft - Link 2 HSP Motor mount - Link 2 Brushless motor ESC Spur gear and pinion gear - Link 1 servo metal tie rod Allen Head Socket Cap Screws thank you

ok, I found the issue. I have Germany as delivery country on AliExpress since I am in Switzerland... as soon as I changed to US the part was available. Sorry for that.

@@LMBroadcasting That's ok, I'm glad the problem is solved.

Welcome ❤😃

I didn't forget bro, I'm working on it. 🚀

jesus dude relax lol

​@@scarfa21bro was thinking what to write 3 months

hes in winter, he will reply when he can @@steliosvastardos2922

Thanks so much.

Yep dude I know 🔥😁, I don't want to be someone who will tell you what to do next, Robak 2 is good, Nomad is good, so it's up to you what you choose... but I will definitely be happy if you try Nomad.

😆 Thank you very much I really appreciate it, so contact me personally by email or ig.