Five years later, and your video is still helping new makers like me with making screw tops for models!! Thanks for the great explanation and the tip on making one of the pieces "glass" so you can see inside without switching to wireframe (which frankly makes me feel cross-eyed).
Quickest and best explained threaded container tutorial on YT. It's been a while since this was posted, so your newer printer probably deals with tolerances better than his. I'd do a bit of testing and try to work it down to a tighter fit. My Ender 5 S1 prints a good fit at 1.2mm tolerance (that's 3 x 0.4mm wall width). You can adjust the thread tolerance by selecting the upper and lower thread faces (of either the lid, the container, or both), then using press/pull.
This is one of the best tutorials I've watched online. AND as a plus, you included the code so we could try to match it. Thank you for what you accomplished.
Super great video. I think I got it enough to try one of my own on a Makerbot Replicator+. Although the lid didn't line up in your video, at first, I think it would have worked anyway, as it will just self start and align at the beginning of the threads. However, rotating it like you did let you use F360 to its greatest benefit, to measure the thread clearance. I did mine at 67 mm OD and 40 mm high + the 1mm, as you said. Thanks for the share.
I printed out someone else's threaded container, but made the mistake of simply scaling it down in Cura, which is not a great thing to do because the threads weren't happy with simple scaling. Thanks for this tutorial, I'll learn to design my own!
In my experience the inside threads tend to shrink in printing, often even stray lines that adhere poorly to the walls. I compensate by making more tolerance on the inside thread and even filleting the protruding edges for a smoother print.
Good video. Do you have any tips in how to find out what type of threads there is on existing things. That my problem, I have a lot of things where I either got an intakt lid (female par) or a intakt container that needs a new lid. But how in gods name kan one find out how to match the threads ?? Any tips TR
Hi there Noe, Thanks for doing these videos in what I assume is your own time. I love the speed of your videos and the fact that you don't waste time, knowing we can go back over it as many times as it takes to get the idea. I am working on a small project and just wanted to ask which type of thread you prefer for a cap. Do you like the Male/Female or the Male/Male type of thread using a coil. I notice most bottle type caps are made using a Male/Male thread. Also do you consider a 3 part thread ( ie 3 @ 0.333 revolutions equal to 120 degrees each ) easier to mesh together, rather than a single 1 revolution thread. For my project I only want the cap to turn 1/3 rd of a revolution and yet travel about 8.5 mm before it is locked against a collar. In your video showing the Male/Female thread, the female thread did not come to the top of the cup (lower part) so I do not know how the male thread would be able to mesh with the female. It would have to get past the area with no thread first, I think ! See next comment above.
Great Vid! I have enjoyed all of the Layer by Layers. I am wondering if you have done a Fusion 3d video and how to use it. I downloaded the software to based off the vids but my version is configured a bit different than yours and I can't find all the features and tools.
at 2:15 you bring back the sketch so you can extrude the 2nd part, mine wont let me do that. you hit sketch, i hit sketch too but nothing happens, and all i have is a flat disk. help please :)
+akshayd211 Ah, I see! We use Wirecast broadcasting software. It's pricey, but very well developed. Try using OBS (open broadcast software) its free and used a lot.
I drew the part up myself, following the video. The bottom part with the involute thread printed great, but man, that upper part is giving me problems. The thread keeps getting messed up - the printer (Ultimaker original w. heated bed & E3D V6-head) is under-extruding material when i try to print it. So annoying. :/
QUICK NOTE ON TERMINOLOGY: As long as people understand what each other is talking about then the job gets done:) That said, terminology can matter, depending on the realm. So, for those who might be interested in "proper" engineering language, here's something to take or leave as you choose... TOLERANCE: Machine's ability to realize a target dimension. Expressed a "+/-" from the target. There is no such thing as "exactly 1mm", or "exactly 1º" in the real world. CLEARANCE: "Design intent". The "nominal" dimension. There must be a clearance to accommodate the desired "fit". To ensure this, the tolerance must be considered, as well. And, two other related terms that often get used loosely/interchangeable, but technically have distinct, different meanings... ACCURACY: How close a machine comes to the design intent dimension. PRECISION: Measure of the repeatability of a machine to hit the design intent dimension. OK, I hope that is of value to some of the commenters here. If this is not for you, then carry on :) ...
nevermind figured it out:) just have to hit the pointer button by sketch to see the drop down menu that says Sketch 1 and then the lines appear again :)
Five years later, and your video is still helping new makers like me with making screw tops for models!! Thanks for the great explanation and the tip on making one of the pieces "glass" so you can see inside without switching to wireframe (which frankly makes me feel cross-eyed).
Quickest and best explained threaded container tutorial on YT. It's been a while since this was posted, so your newer printer probably deals with tolerances better than his. I'd do a bit of testing and try to work it down to a tighter fit. My Ender 5 S1 prints a good fit at 1.2mm tolerance (that's 3 x 0.4mm wall width). You can adjust the thread tolerance by selecting the upper and lower thread faces (of either the lid, the container, or both), then using press/pull.
Very nice! This is making me want to try out Fusion360 again. It looks so full featured!
I know this was an old video but it is worth commenting, it was excellent example of making useful product.
This is one of the best tutorials I've watched online. AND as a plus, you included the code so we could try to match it. Thank you for what you accomplished.
Excellent. Thank you for your simple explanation for a screw on cap. This will work for my project.
Super great video. I think I got it enough to try one of my own on a Makerbot Replicator+. Although the lid didn't line up in your video, at first, I think it would have worked anyway, as it will just self start and align at the beginning of the threads. However, rotating it like you did let you use F360 to its greatest benefit, to measure the thread clearance. I did mine at 67 mm OD and 40 mm high + the 1mm, as you said. Thanks for the share.
I printed out someone else's threaded container, but made the mistake of simply scaling it down in Cura, which is not a great thing to do because the threads weren't happy with simple scaling. Thanks for this tutorial, I'll learn to design my own!
Just watched this video to be able to make exactly this kind of enclosure for Geocaching. Simple to make like this :)
I'm loving Fusion 360, and this is perfect for projects I've got in the works. Thank you for the great guides.
These are so remarkably useful. Thank you so much for these great tutorials.
nice video, you mentioned some good key points!
In my experience the inside threads tend to shrink in printing, often even stray lines that adhere poorly to the walls. I compensate by making more tolerance on the inside thread and even filleting the protruding edges for a smoother print.
Great tutorial. I am just starting to use Fusion 360 and have a lot to learn obviously. You really helped me along. Thank you.
Good video. Do you have any tips in how to find out what type of threads there is on existing things. That my problem, I have a lot of things where I either got an intakt lid (female par) or a intakt container that needs a new lid. But how in gods name kan one find out how to match the threads ?? Any tips
TR
Great tutorial again! I printed it in ABS and it went together perfect
excellent video, very simple
Great video! Looks like a handy tip for all sorts of designs.
Hi there Noe, Thanks for doing these videos in what I assume is your own time. I love the speed of your videos and the fact that you don't waste time, knowing we can go back over it as many times as it takes to get the idea. I am working on a small project and just wanted to ask which type of thread you prefer for a cap. Do you like the Male/Female or the Male/Male type of thread using a coil. I notice most bottle type caps are made using a Male/Male thread. Also do you consider a 3 part thread ( ie 3 @ 0.333 revolutions equal to 120 degrees each ) easier to mesh together, rather than a single 1 revolution thread. For my project I only want the cap to turn 1/3 rd of a revolution and yet travel about 8.5 mm before it is locked against a collar.
In your video showing the Male/Female thread, the female thread did not come to the top of the cup (lower part) so I do not know how the male thread would be able to mesh with the female. It would have to get past the area with no thread first, I think !
See next comment above.
Even five years later, this tutorial makes this 10000x easier than blender, ugh.
Great Vid! I have enjoyed all of the Layer by Layers. I am wondering if you have done a Fusion 3d video and how to use it. I downloaded the software to based off the vids but my version is configured a bit different than yours and I can't find all the features and tools.
This is exactly what I need right now! Thank you so much!
Thanks for sharing! What a great video! I will definitely be looking forward to more videos from you. You explain yourself very well.
hello i tried making this on bambu and it didnt work for some reason , i tried changing the layer height to 0.2 but it wasnt a smooth twist
where can I get the files for this demo? link does not seem to work....?
Great video! I'm now a subscriber.
This is what I am looking for, thank you~
im having a problem when i bring the top back its at the bottom instead of on the top can you tell me why.
That was cool.... Thank you!
wow so good
Thank you very much, very useful!
at 2:15 you bring back the sketch so you can extrude the 2nd part, mine wont let me do that. you hit sketch, i hit sketch too but nothing happens, and all i have is a flat disk. help please :)
Great tutorial. Thanks!
I think ir was a Lens CAP, jaja, What this enclosure work for?
Please tell me what software you used to make this video. ? such a fantastic tutorial.. thanks!
Thanks! Sure, I'm using Auto Fusion 360 - You can download it for free! autode.sk/1Ro3wkb
Oh I knew that ...I meant to create this screen grabber and webcam inset ? haha fantastic stuff though.. Again!
+akshayd211 Ah, I see! We use Wirecast broadcasting software. It's pricey, but very well developed. Try using OBS (open broadcast software) its free and used a lot.
Superb! thanks a lot lads...
Nice video, i love this program :)
Dear sir can you show us bottle container and cap thread design pls.
I drew the part up myself, following the video. The bottom part with the involute thread printed great, but man, that upper part is giving me problems. The thread keeps getting messed up - the printer (Ultimaker original w. heated bed & E3D V6-head) is under-extruding material when i try to print it. So annoying. :/
+zaprodk What layer height do you have it set to? I'd suggest using 0.1mm with a slower print speed (40mm/s)-Noe
+Adafruit Industries I tried 0.1mm 50mm/s - I will try a lower speed and see what happens :D
It is possible to create this project for 200mm x 200mm ???
Another Great One!!
thanks
Yes! Thank you!!!
Great video.
How much would it cost to print that?
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Nice job. Thx. It works!:)
QUICK NOTE ON TERMINOLOGY: As long as people understand what each other is talking about then the job gets done:) That said, terminology can matter, depending on the realm. So, for those who might be interested in "proper" engineering language, here's something to take or leave as you choose...
TOLERANCE: Machine's ability to realize a target dimension. Expressed a "+/-" from the target. There is no such thing as "exactly 1mm", or "exactly 1º" in the real world.
CLEARANCE: "Design intent". The "nominal" dimension. There must be a clearance to accommodate the desired "fit". To ensure this, the tolerance must be considered, as well.
And, two other related terms that often get used loosely/interchangeable, but technically have distinct, different meanings...
ACCURACY: How close a machine comes to the design intent dimension.
PRECISION: Measure of the repeatability of a machine to hit the design intent dimension.
OK, I hope that is of value to some of the commenters here. If this is not for you, then carry on :) ...
Great video!
exaktly what i need for my next projekt.
Can you please put the modell up on thingiverse!
+MasterMatt Thanks! The download file is now in the description - here's the diect link a360.co/1Ji0prn -Noe
THNX!
nevermind figured it out:) just have to hit the pointer button by sketch to see the drop down menu that says Sketch 1 and then the lines appear again :)
Thank you!