Where an inventor can go to request, specify, and pay for a unique 3D printed part. Just kidding---you didn't actually mention that, though it would be very, very helpful if you did. Cheers,
@@johnstrawb3521 Are you looking for someone to design a new object? or do you want to 3D print an existing object? You can hire CAD designers on upWork.com or you can have prototypes made by Xometry.com
As a beginner with my first printer, these are some golden tips. I have background in industrial design but no real skills or knowledge engineering, apart from what I've got from school, so these are really useful things to know. I did not realize one can print chains in place!
The most informative tip was that fusion 360 was free for personal use. I tried blender, but didn't understand it, so I've been using tinkercad this whole time.
I have been in that same situation for years. Only Tinkercad. Onshape is another alternative btw. That works even on my iPad, and I love it. BUT.. there is quite a treshold to transfer from Tinkercad… propably also for F360…. I have done it! And I am cheering you on! 😊 Still in love with Tinkercad btw 😊 It is SO simple and intuitive 🥰 (although limited) Oh.. btw #3: The youtuber "Teaching Tech" (who I like) has made a good set of videos where he teaches Onshape "from scratch".. (just in case 🙏) Watch his 5 min video "7 reasons why Onshape is the best…" to get a taste of him…
I use the student version of F360 but I'm gonna learn blender soon, as a Linux user I really dislike having to boot into an external hd or run a VM just to 3D modeling, so it makes all sense break free of windows/mac specific software.
@@renatod.o.2930 I started learning Blender after years with F360. To me, if Fusion is drafting, then Blender is painting. There's just not enough precision for me. Blender is fun and you can achieve neat results - for me it's not a great tool for 3d printing.
As a engineer who has been 3D printing for 7 years these are some amazing tips. I wish I had when I was first getting started and that chain idea is actually new to me and glad I watched!
If you want your part to be stronger, add extra perimeters on the outside. The further away your material is from the center of gravity, the stronger your part.
It's kind of true only for a sub section of cases. For example if your part is under simple compression or tension forces it doesn't matter where the material is, only matters how much material is in cross-sectional area. If the part is under bending then it is sort of true, but what you are referring is moment of inertia. Also center of gravity also is only half true, the moment of inertia is defined over geometric center (geometric center of a area not center of mass ). So the geometric center is in same location with center of gravity if the volume of the part is uniform density 3D prints may be uniform but mostly are not due to wall layering and infill etc. So having more perimeters doesn't always make things better, it does only in some cases. One kind of needs to understand how the forces are acting on part to make it stronger. There's also a difference between making part just stronger of making it stronger while retaining original weight.
0:50 I'd prefer that you create a slicer modifier in Fusion. That way, you have more flexibility in strengthening a part (e.g., infill %, # of perimeters, perimeter width, etc.).
CURA 'per-part printer settings'. Divide your model into functional parts; each part is assigned different printer settings. The only 'catch' is needing to use the same layer height and hot-end temp for all parts of the model. It will print as a single model. Example: a long tube with end-closures printed as a single thing. Print it vertically: The first closure is printed in 'detailed mode, two perimeters with dense infill, on a raft, support everywhere, default thickness'. The tubular section is printed in 'vase mode, no infill, single perimeter, 0.7mm wall thickness'. The second closure is printed in detailed mode, two perimeters with dense infill, no support, default thickness' There are at least two ways to divide the model: 1) Cut it up in CAD, export each piece, load them into CURA, position the parts, assign print settings to each part. Tedious, but it works. 2) Load the complete model into CURA, then use the 'box selection tool' to assign print settings to each part of the model. A little less accurate, but a lot easier. CURA preview after slicing verifies the correct settings are applied in the right places.
Those kinds of settings will only be helpful if yo u use them yourself. Most people take only the stl from Printables/Thingiverse/Thangs and slice them themselves (because they have a different Slicer, Material, Printer, Nozzle Diameter, ...) and tricks like this will just automatically be picked up by any slicer without extra configuration.
0:52 or you could do an extra wall using cura "modify setting for overlaps" to change the wall and in fill, settings to create an extra wall inside the object without cutting the original model.
That hinge is not a live or living hinge, it is just a normal hinge. A live or living hinge is where the hinge is just a thin piece of plastic or other material that folds. The first 2 were just common things, not just for 3D printing, threads and C clips are very widely used.
A note on the pinhole: in that scenario, the extra material is doing very little for you in most cases. For a lot of the stresses you deal with, focusing on the shell/wall will be the best use of material. For most people: just increase walls and infill unless you know what you are doing. If you want to learn more, look up basic “strength of materials” or “mechanical engineering design” courses, there are some decent intro courses on YT.
Exactly. With the pinhole, he's just basically trying to create more infill, but the problem is that it's only centralized, so unless you know exactly the stress load is exactly in that pinhole area, you are much better off with thicker shell, and/or simply more infill %
@@Bigsativait’s WAY bigger than you need and will lead to really loose fits. I suppose if your printer isn’t great 0.4 might be okay but I regularly do 0.05-0.1 mm and haven’t had issues yet
I would love to see that donut remixed with the threads on top and the sleeve on the bottom, that way your contents don't get crushed or displaced when you screw the top on.
For strength, you can actually cheat better than digging a hole into it. When you extrude down, create a new component, made it solid. Load the Components in together, select the second component and set it to a desired infill, keep the other component at the lower infill. In a cylinder you can do this in alternating rings, or you can generate extra thick walls around certain holes if they are being utilized for thread inserts or have a rod running through them that will apply torque or tension to the body of the hole. Yours definitely has the benefit of being quick and easy though. No extra work involved.
The "print in place live hinge" is not a live hinge. It's a hinge, sure, but "live hinge" refers to a flexure, a single part that bends in a specific location.
What's funny is it's great Fusion 360 is free and has a thread tool, but the tool itself is TERRIBLE and incredibly restrictive. Doing anything basic like custom thread pitches, a thread that tapers back into the part, a partially threaded rod, or anything outside of standard harsh cut threads is basically a nightmare. XD
@@andreojuegosyestrategia1266 Onshape has a decent thread tool, better than Fusion, and there is a good Fusion plugin to do threads, but none of them are really full featured. Honestly what I have resorted to is downloading CAD files from McMaster-Carr with the threads I need and chopping them up for use in Fusion. I do not believe Blender or even Maya have built in tools to do true manufacturing style threads.
Blender have plugins for threads, I have heard it from more skilled person, who also used Blender. But I never used one. For nuts and bolts I use OpenSCAD customizer from thingeverse. And when I need threads, yes I would create one in openSCAD, then chop it in Blender = )) I tried Onshape, saw some videos about how it is easy to use and such. Actually I did not understand a thing there. And later they banned me, a month later, after I forgot that I registered there. So yeah. I prefer offline tools anyway. Just like in the old days, you know.
I am a designer with an engineering degree. Everything I design for my job gets made out of sheet steel so I appreciate the tips for a different medium, even though the CAD stuff isn’t as new/helpful
Is there a way you can price your course in BRL? If we convert USD to BRL the course becomes very expensive. Printing in Brazil is very popular at the moment and I think it would be a good opportunity for both sides.
I am new to 3d printing, but i would say rule of thumb for Creality printers will be for allowances and if you are printing with 100% infill and getting too much of deformation (above NOZZLE DIAM, in my case - 2mm) - change infill type or printing cinematic, it will reduce internal stresses so print will be more accurate to the model. Also, for some reason the most viable format for exporting 3d models from Blender is PLY
Didn't Fusion 360 change their "free for personal use" policy? I got a notice to upgrade within 30 days like I had a few trial but I had been using the free individual license for a while before that.
Just got a 3D printer as a new years gift to myself, wanted one for years... anyway you might have just saved my threaded item fingers crossed excited to try some of these tips
1:05 For me, it's 0.2mm for (very satisfying) snap fits, and that's on my (somewhat modified) Ender 3 using PLA. It also depends if you're printing FDM or resin, the filament you're using, print speed, temperature, and other such fun factors that you'll just have to experiment with regardless.
Although the content isn't technically incorrect for some reason these feels like a quantum physics tick tock video for the masses made by an MBA major.
I generally don't watch these sort of top 5 videos because there's so much filler content in between each point. But this one got straight to it and I had the same thought after watching it. Super informative!
How do you do that? I print the inner thread at 95% scale in X and Y direction (thead standing in Z direction) but the downside is that then the whole model gets scaled, not only the thread.
And like that, I liked and subscribed. Let's see what else you have on this channel. Nice vid! As a Freecad peasant I'm going to have to try some of these out
Hi, I'm new to 3d printing and especially fusion 360. I've figured out the basics of threads and such but i'm wondering is there a way to seperate the threads to make them wider apart?
I actually doubt this. Because for bending stress the extra material at the center does not make a great difference. Thats why H-shaped bar is used alot in construction: it is much lighter than solid bar but hadle compareble load. Same here. If you want stronger part you need extra material at perimeters (extra perimeters) bot not in the center.
@@dmitrynuzhdin the tip is generalizable to being able to add additional strength and support (via perimeter generation vs infill) anywhere in a model. The youtube clip confused the issue by showing the support being add to the center of a cylinder, a place that typically doesn't need additional support, but the Voron Stealthburner uses this trick in it's design to add additional reinforcement/rigidity in key structural places.
Do you teach all these on your course? Do you teach on it How to make threads, gears, hinges, chains to do elaborated models or is just a basic explanation of the tools the program has?
Not saying some of these tips aren’t helpful for beginners, but this is printing 101, doesn’t get more basic than that. You don’t even specify wether your (way too big) 0.4mm clearance is for radius or circumference. Your little cube has now no structural integrity whatsoever, this is probably the worst option to optimise print time you could’ve suggested. Lastly, if your method of securing a box together (beginning of the video) is with threads and 3d printed Nuts, I hope no one, ever buys your „masterclass“ on designing. There are soo many ways to achieve the same thing, but seamlessly and invisible, without adding 16 atrocious looking balls to the outside of your print. Suggest mold-in Inserts, properly tuned latching mechanisms or in-Part nuts/magnets with a pause in your G-Code. Still very basic techniques but at least somewhat presentable
My favorite tip was how you mentioned that Fusion 360 is extremely easy to use, and then failed to elaborate on why I've had such a hard time understanding what the fuck anything does lmao
great video.... but FUSION is not free. only get to use it for a year before you have to purchase. What do I throw out my 3dprinter once I have finally begun o master Fusion?
I prefer FreeCAD for most things. For one, it's open source, for two it runs native in your comp. It is quite powerful, in fact it has some functionality that Fusion doesn't (and vice versa of course).
Yeah, I agree. Recent events show that not all cloud services are 'free'. They change their mind from time to time. Opensource never fails. It may be not optimal and have trouble. But at least it is permanent.
Out of curiosity, why do you feel compelled to interject your supposed profession into a comment that absolutely requires NO need to assert whatever authority you think you have. You could've *very* easily said the same thing, without the "as the expert in this comment section" clause. And as a bonus, you wouldn't sound like a donk! In short, *nobody* likes it when *anyone* does that... Stop it.
It depends. I do not know about stock printers. But custom heads have no trouble with retraction distance of 1mm or even less. I have not very good custom direct, which I 'temporary' using for two years, it handles 2mm with no trouble.
@@enosunim printing tree supports introduces underextrusion into the model. 3d printers ASSUME that 3d printing is linear. But flow pressure is not linear. So when the extruder moves linear, the filament at the nozzle doesnt. So the more you retract, the more damage is done to the print quality.
@@tazanteflight8670 there are different techniques to take into account pressure change like Linear/Pressure Advance. Also it really depends in what order what is printed(if supports printed before model layer or after it is just like normal retract on layer change). And heatblock chamber volume. It depends. I do not see much difference between tree supports or printing multiple objects at the same time. If retraction distance is short, then pressure change is also small.
For anyone living under a rock, Fusion 360 is free for hobby use and YES you can export STL files. Learn How to, plenty of resources available on TH-cam.
You just need 1 cad software. Like inventor or solidworks. And one free modelling like blender. Then you can do whatever you want with internet tutorials and inventive.
Is your course very specific to fusion 360 or do you think it would be useful to those using other cad software? Personally I prefer Onshape but would still like to support your courses
Hello, congratulations for your videos. If possible, I would like you to advise me on the most suitable 3d printer to produce channel letters to place inside. Thanks
A bit of clarity here. These clearance values you (and the video) are mentioning, specifically with the example shown of a cylinder fitting in a hole. Is this clearance allowance applied to the cylinder (and/or hole) radius or diameter? This kind of makes a difference. ;-)
@@Sembazuru good question, for me in the case of a part threading onto, or fitting over an existing diameter eg. an adapter that must go onto an existing tube/cylinder, I add the clearance to the part with the hole. The reverse is true if the case is opposite. If I am designing both from scratch it comes down to materials, precision requirements, etc. But in general, I either split it between the two or default to the hole carrying the clearance
@@howardeley3577 You misunderstand my question. Is that clearance applied to the radius or the diameter of the part that you are over or under sizing? I suspect the radius (so there is the full clearance on both sides of the circular cross-section). But I was just asking for clarity.
One tip that was not mentionned that literally makes the difference between someone who knows the limit of 3D printing is using inserts. Not only do they make your threads reusable, but they also force you to make your parts intelligently since you can't install them at random. I'm kind of sad an "expert" did not mention this. Edit: I'm working in engineering.
very cool, love the high level speed run through these tricks. i don't have a specific application at this point in time, but i love knowing the general designs that are possible. thank you!
Great video! I never knew about the gear add ins! Thanks! Also, for print-in-place prints how do you export seperate objects together in one STL file from fusion 360?
Since when is fusion free for personal? Last time I tried to use it, it won’t let you save more than one project unless you’re paying for it. And half the features are missing. Did I miss something??
They made the free version very restrictive and lost many customers because of that, FreeCAD and other CAD programs have gained a lot of new users in the process.
Which tip / trick was your favorite?
Where an inventor can go to request, specify, and pay for a unique 3D printed part.
Just kidding---you didn't actually mention that, though it would be very, very helpful if you did. Cheers,
@@johnstrawb3521 I think it's called shapeways
@@johnstrawb3521 Are you looking for someone to design a new object? or do you want to 3D print an existing object? You can hire CAD designers on upWork.com or you can have prototypes made by Xometry.com
The hinge was my favorite. awesome video love the concept
Chain 🤯
Misleading title. The video is about Fusion 360.
Actually the video is just an advert for his fusion 360 course
@@learobinson beat me to it
A "live hinge" is a hinge made from a single solid piece of material.
Yes, like on a DVD case. That is just a print-in-place hinge...
Me who learned Blender because I thought Fusion 360 was super expensive 👁️ 👄 👁️
haha that's why learning both is great. Each has its own pros/cons
How did you learn blender???? I'd have less trouble building falcon xix for musk than learning blender
Blender Guru has a 17 part playlist on TH-cam that explains the foundations of organic (non-CAD) 3D modeling. You can check it out.
SAME, I thought you had to pay for fusion 360?
OnShape is also a nice alternative, don't even need to download anything as it is cloud-hosted.
As a beginner with my first printer, these are some golden tips. I have background in industrial design but no real skills or knowledge engineering, apart from what I've got from school, so these are really useful things to know. I did not realize one can print chains in place!
The most informative tip was that fusion 360 was free for personal use. I tried blender, but didn't understand it, so I've been using tinkercad this whole time.
I have been in that same situation for years. Only Tinkercad. Onshape is another alternative btw. That works even on my iPad, and I love it. BUT.. there is quite a treshold to transfer from Tinkercad… propably also for F360…. I have done it! And I am cheering you on! 😊
Still in love with Tinkercad btw 😊 It is SO simple and intuitive 🥰 (although limited)
Oh.. btw #3: The youtuber "Teaching Tech" (who I like) has made a good set of videos where he teaches Onshape "from scratch".. (just in case 🙏)
Watch his 5 min video "7 reasons why Onshape is the best…" to get a taste of him…
@@oljobo Good to know, I've been looking for something with more features than tinkercad
fusion 360 is flipping incredible.
I use the student version of F360 but I'm gonna learn blender soon, as a Linux user I really dislike having to boot into an external hd or run a VM just to 3D modeling, so it makes all sense break free of windows/mac specific software.
@@renatod.o.2930 I started learning Blender after years with F360. To me, if Fusion is drafting, then Blender is painting. There's just not enough precision for me. Blender is fun and you can achieve neat results - for me it's not a great tool for 3d printing.
"Don't have time here to explain" = buy my stuff.
As a engineer who has been 3D printing for 7 years these are some amazing tips. I wish I had when I was first getting started and that chain idea is actually new to me and glad I watched!
If you want your part to be stronger, add extra perimeters on the outside. The further away your material is from the center of gravity, the stronger your part.
Yes, this "expert tip" is really bad advise....
@@emielessink3191
No it isn't, both methods have their place.
@@andrewholdaway813Do i need to prove it scientific? 😂 Look up moment of inertia.
It's kind of true only for a sub section of cases. For example if your part is under simple compression or tension forces it doesn't matter where the material is, only matters how much material is in cross-sectional area. If the part is under bending then it is sort of true, but what you are referring is moment of inertia. Also center of gravity also is only half true, the moment of inertia is defined over geometric center (geometric center of a area not center of mass ). So the geometric center is in same location with center of gravity if the volume of the part is uniform density 3D prints may be uniform but mostly are not due to wall layering and infill etc. So having more perimeters doesn't always make things better, it does only in some cases.
One kind of needs to understand how the forces are acting on part to make it stronger. There's also a difference between making part just stronger of making it stronger while retaining original weight.
@@koitk
Don't forget buckling though
Apparently im an expert in 3d printing, and this is just and ad in disguise
0:50 I'd prefer that you create a slicer modifier in Fusion. That way, you have more flexibility in strengthening a part (e.g., infill %, # of perimeters, perimeter width, etc.).
CURA 'per-part printer settings'.
Divide your model into functional parts; each part is assigned different printer settings.
The only 'catch' is needing to use the same layer height and hot-end temp for all parts of the model.
It will print as a single model.
Example: a long tube with end-closures printed as a single thing.
Print it vertically: The first closure is printed in 'detailed mode, two perimeters with dense infill, on a raft, support everywhere, default thickness'. The tubular section is printed in 'vase mode, no infill, single perimeter, 0.7mm wall thickness'.
The second closure is printed in detailed mode, two perimeters with dense infill, no support, default thickness'
There are at least two ways to divide the model:
1) Cut it up in CAD, export each piece, load them into CURA, position the parts, assign print settings to each part. Tedious, but it works.
2) Load the complete model into CURA, then use the 'box selection tool' to assign print settings to each part of the model. A little less accurate, but a lot easier.
CURA preview after slicing verifies the correct settings are applied in the right places.
Those kinds of settings will only be helpful if yo u use them yourself. Most people take only the stl from Printables/Thingiverse/Thangs and slice them themselves (because they have a different Slicer, Material, Printer, Nozzle Diameter, ...) and tricks like this will just automatically be picked up by any slicer without extra configuration.
0:52 or you could do an extra wall using cura "modify setting for overlaps" to change the wall and in fill, settings to create an extra wall inside the object without cutting the original model.
Can you please elaborate on bridging and which settings are best
POINT 4 OFFSET? That's waaay too much for a well calibrated printer. 0.1mm for a snug fit 0.2 for a loose fit.
ikr? that's pretty sloppy, I've done printed bearings at 0.1 on a creality before
That hinge is not a live or living hinge, it is just a normal hinge. A live or living hinge is where the hinge is just a thin piece of plastic or other material that folds.
The first 2 were just common things, not just for 3D printing, threads and C clips are very widely used.
A note on the pinhole: in that scenario, the extra material is doing very little for you in most cases. For a lot of the stresses you deal with, focusing on the shell/wall will be the best use of material. For most people: just increase walls and infill unless you know what you are doing. If you want to learn more, look up basic “strength of materials” or “mechanical engineering design” courses, there are some decent intro courses on YT.
Exactly. With the pinhole, he's just basically trying to create more infill, but the problem is that it's only centralized, so unless you know exactly the stress load is exactly in that pinhole area, you are much better off with thicker shell, and/or simply more infill %
experts aren't running 0.4mm tolerances lmao
Why not
@@Bigsativa sloppy
On my P1S I can get away with 0.1-0.2mm tolerance easily. 0.4mm would feel noticeably loose.
@@Bigsativait’s WAY bigger than you need and will lead to really loose fits. I suppose if your printer isn’t great 0.4 might be okay but I regularly do 0.05-0.1 mm and haven’t had issues yet
I would love to see that donut remixed with the threads on top and the sleeve on the bottom, that way your contents don't get crushed or displaced when you screw the top on.
This was really helpful!
These tips will make my life so much better lol!
Wow! Hey Creative Mindstorms! Love your videos! ;)
@@danielsaenz5570 Hey Andrew! Thank you for commenting under this video and thank you for your kind message!
For strength, you can actually cheat better than digging a hole into it. When you extrude down, create a new component, made it solid. Load the Components in together, select the second component and set it to a desired infill, keep the other component at the lower infill. In a cylinder you can do this in alternating rings, or you can generate extra thick walls around certain holes if they are being utilized for thread inserts or have a rod running through them that will apply torque or tension to the body of the hole. Yours definitely has the benefit of being quick and easy though. No extra work involved.
I don't even 3d print but I love watching these. Good stuff!
The "print in place live hinge" is not a live hinge. It's a hinge, sure, but "live hinge" refers to a flexure, a single part that bends in a specific location.
What's funny is it's great Fusion 360 is free and has a thread tool, but the tool itself is TERRIBLE and incredibly restrictive. Doing anything basic like custom thread pitches, a thread that tapers back into the part, a partially threaded rod, or anything outside of standard harsh cut threads is basically a nightmare. XD
I often feel very restricted by Fusion 360. I wonder if Blender has this tool. Have you done threads on Blender? Is it better than in Fusion?
@@andreojuegosyestrategia1266 Onshape has a decent thread tool, better than Fusion, and there is a good Fusion plugin to do threads, but none of them are really full featured. Honestly what I have resorted to is downloading CAD files from McMaster-Carr with the threads I need and chopping them up for use in Fusion. I do not believe Blender or even Maya have built in tools to do true manufacturing style threads.
Blender have plugins for threads, I have heard it from more skilled person, who also used Blender. But I never used one. For nuts and bolts I use OpenSCAD customizer from thingeverse. And when I need threads, yes I would create one in openSCAD, then chop it in Blender = ))
I tried Onshape, saw some videos about how it is easy to use and such. Actually I did not understand a thing there. And later they banned me, a month later, after I forgot that I registered there. So yeah. I prefer offline tools anyway. Just like in the old days, you know.
I always love seeing the Hilbert curve in slicers for infill. I can’t say I know of a more satisfying tool path to watch.
I am a designer with an engineering degree. Everything I design for my job gets made out of sheet steel so I appreciate the tips for a different medium, even though the CAD stuff isn’t as new/helpful
I want my 4 minutes back. Certainly not expert tricks.
1:00 This is exactly what I needed to know, thank you 😇
You have so many gears... You are really a Top Gear guy!
Is there a way you can price your course in BRL? If we convert USD to BRL the course becomes very expensive. Printing in Brazil is very popular at the moment and I think it would be a good opportunity for both sides.
I am new to 3d printing, but i would say rule of thumb for Creality printers will be for allowances and if you are printing with 100% infill and getting too much of deformation (above NOZZLE DIAM, in my case - 2mm) - change infill type or printing cinematic, it will reduce internal stresses so print will be more accurate to the model. Also, for some reason the most viable format for exporting 3d models from Blender is PLY
How do I model the c clip?
I have the same question
Can't wait to have to edit people's models to remove all these "tricks".
These are amazing tips!! Thank you!
Didn't Fusion 360 change their "free for personal use" policy? I got a notice to upgrade within 30 days like I had a few trial but I had been using the free individual license for a while before that.
You know you have to use the product placements tag even when doing ads even for your own stuff right??
I learned some cool stuff.... and that's a groovy marble machine. Thanks for sharing.
Can you point me to the JBV Creative video (or other source) that talks more about the C Clip?
Can you please share your thread settings on fusion 360? (thread type, pitch, etc) and whether you used any offset for clearances?
@@combinacijus wow didn’t even notice. Thanks!
Just got a 3D printer as a new years gift to myself, wanted one for years... anyway you might have just saved my threaded item fingers crossed excited to try some of these tips
1:05 For me, it's 0.2mm for (very satisfying) snap fits, and that's on my (somewhat modified) Ender 3 using PLA. It also depends if you're printing FDM or resin, the filament you're using, print speed, temperature, and other such fun factors that you'll just have to experiment with regardless.
Although the content isn't technically incorrect for some reason these feels like a quantum physics tick tock video for the masses made by an MBA major.
4 minutes 38 seconds of QUALITY time 😃. Thank You! Subscribed!
I generally don't watch these sort of top 5 videos because there's so much filler content in between each point. But this one got straight to it and I had the same thought after watching it. Super informative!
Remember to increase the clearance for threads in fusion 360, the standard may be too little.
How do you do that? I print the inner thread at 95% scale in X and Y direction (thead standing in Z direction) but the downside is that then the whole model gets scaled, not only the thread.
I also add a fillet to the thread edges. I find threads work better when that is done.
@@Djeez2 use press/pull on every surface of the thread.
When you make it on both, a normal screw and a nut will fit.
Woooow so sympathic, there was some questions I had and nobody answer me and you juste gived me all answers I need 😊
Does your course ever go on sale?
Does the free fusion 360 allow you to sell your printed parts or the stl files made within fusion 360?
And like that, I liked and subscribed. Let's see what else you have on this channel. Nice vid! As a Freecad peasant I'm going to have to try some of these out
Hi, I'm new to 3d printing and especially fusion 360. I've figured out the basics of threads and such but i'm wondering is there a way to seperate the threads to make them wider apart?
when someone intorduces you to Fusion and says- this is a really easy cad program. ;D while its other name is Confusion.
Very neat tricks! Thank you.
This was all the “how did they do that”s in one video. Take my subscription please and thank you!
I knew about all of these except for adding the hole in the center to make the print stronger. I learned something new today. Thanks!
I actually doubt this. Because for bending stress the extra material at the center does not make a great difference. Thats why H-shaped bar is used alot in construction: it is much lighter than solid bar but hadle compareble load. Same here. If you want stronger part you need extra material at perimeters (extra perimeters) bot not in the center.
@@dmitrynuzhdin the tip is generalizable to being able to add additional strength and support (via perimeter generation vs infill) anywhere in a model. The youtube clip confused the issue by showing the support being add to the center of a cylinder, a place that typically doesn't need additional support, but the Voron Stealthburner uses this trick in it's design to add additional reinforcement/rigidity in key structural places.
I have Fusion 360 and use it for my CAD design, got into 3D printing to find out that Cura doesn’t support it anymore
You can export your solid bodies as mesh and then upload to slicer
Great work. Love gears and wheels to. Ill folow ur work. Glad i find ur channel. Best of luck.
Do you teach all these on your course? Do you teach on it How to make threads, gears, hinges, chains to do elaborated models or is just a basic explanation of the tools the program has?
Not saying some of these tips aren’t helpful for beginners, but this is printing 101, doesn’t get more basic than that.
You don’t even specify wether your (way too big) 0.4mm clearance is for radius or circumference.
Your little cube has now no structural integrity whatsoever, this is probably the worst option to optimise print time you could’ve suggested.
Lastly, if your method of securing a box together (beginning of the video) is with threads and 3d printed Nuts, I hope no one, ever buys your „masterclass“ on designing.
There are soo many ways to achieve the same thing, but seamlessly and invisible, without adding 16 atrocious looking balls to the outside of your print.
Suggest mold-in Inserts, properly tuned latching mechanisms or in-Part nuts/magnets with a pause in your G-Code.
Still very basic techniques but at least somewhat presentable
Very good format. High signal low noise. It would be fun to watch you model objects that combine a few of the tricks at once,
Cool tips, maybe not expert tips, but I did not know about the 'double face move/copy' technique at 3:39 that will definitely come in handy.
Guys I think this guys likes Fusion 360...
Working Hinge is amazing I would like to use that and the threads on a mask.
Have you done or if not can do a tutorial on adding like pictures and text to a print ?
Thanks
Printing gears... well damn, now I have a reason to buy a 3D printer.
What if I want to print a clamping block that will grasp onto a tube? How much tolerance should I print it or design in general
hello .. thanks for great job.. i want to ask what 3d printer you use ? and what about red fillament type and company?
Wow. I came across this video by accident and it’s great. Subscribed and will be looking through your channel
My favorite tip was how you mentioned that Fusion 360 is extremely easy to use, and then failed to elaborate on why I've had such a hard time understanding what the fuck anything does lmao
Any chance you have an STL for that donut case thing??
great video.... but FUSION is not free. only get to use it for a year before you have to purchase. What do I throw out my 3dprinter once I have finally begun o master Fusion?
I prefer FreeCAD for most things. For one, it's open source, for two it runs native in your comp. It is quite powerful, in fact it has some functionality that Fusion doesn't (and vice versa of course).
Yeah, I agree. Recent events show that not all cloud services are 'free'. They change their mind from time to time. Opensource never fails. It may be not optimal and have trouble. But at least it is permanent.
Great video!!
Nice video, well done, thanks :)
As an experienced engineer... breath, dude. This is youtube, not TikTok... Also, try Section Analysis
Out of curiosity, why do you feel compelled to interject your supposed profession into a comment that absolutely requires NO need to assert whatever authority you think you have. You could've *very* easily said the same thing, without the "as the expert in this comment section" clause. And as a bonus, you wouldn't sound like a donk! In short, *nobody* likes it when *anyone* does that... Stop it.
@@mitsulang damm, that was the whole idea! Is totally irrelevant! I tough it was obvious the sarcasm
Thank you, ive been looking for a hinge that goes well with angled surfaces and goes 180°+
I like the hinge idea. Thanks!
I needed that .4 mm ty!
@1:55 because of retraction issues, FDM printers dont print tree supports well.
It depends. I do not know about stock printers. But custom heads have no trouble with retraction distance of 1mm or even less. I have not very good custom direct, which I 'temporary' using for two years, it handles 2mm with no trouble.
@@enosunim printing tree supports introduces underextrusion into the model. 3d printers ASSUME that 3d printing is linear. But flow pressure is not linear. So when the extruder moves linear, the filament at the nozzle doesnt. So the more you retract, the more damage is done to the print quality.
@@tazanteflight8670 there are different techniques to take into account pressure change like Linear/Pressure Advance. Also it really depends in what order what is printed(if supports printed before model layer or after it is just like normal retract on layer change). And heatblock chamber volume. It depends. I do not see much difference between tree supports or printing multiple objects at the same time. If retraction distance is short, then pressure change is also small.
For anyone living under a rock, Fusion 360 is free for hobby use and YES you can export STL files. Learn How to, plenty of resources available on TH-cam.
You just need 1 cad software. Like inventor or solidworks. And one free modelling like blender. Then you can do whatever you want with internet tutorials and inventive.
These are great tips, but wish it didn't feel like an ad for Fusion 360.
Thanks for the great advice!
You went a bit fast there with the 3D printed threads in Fusion 360. What settings gets you nice printable threads?
All. Just choose the diameter. Trapezoid threads are suited best.
Is your course very specific to fusion 360 or do you think it would be useful to those using other cad software? Personally I prefer Onshape but would still like to support your courses
Its definitely geared towards Fusion 360 only. However, I do go into detail about how to design specifically for 3D printing.
Hello, congratulations for your videos.
If possible, I would like you to advise me on the most suitable 3d printer to produce channel letters to place inside.
Thanks
That .4mm tip is actually *MONEY* I always go .25-.30 for a snug fit .35-.40 over for smooth
A bit of clarity here. These clearance values you (and the video) are mentioning, specifically with the example shown of a cylinder fitting in a hole. Is this clearance allowance applied to the cylinder (and/or hole) radius or diameter? This kind of makes a difference. ;-)
@@Sembazuru good question, for me in the case of a part threading onto, or fitting over an existing diameter eg. an adapter that must go onto an existing tube/cylinder, I add the clearance to the part with the hole. The reverse is true if the case is opposite. If I am designing both from scratch it comes down to materials, precision requirements, etc. But in general, I either split it between the two or default to the hole carrying the clearance
@@howardeley3577 You misunderstand my question. Is that clearance applied to the radius or the diameter of the part that you are over or under sizing? I suspect the radius (so there is the full clearance on both sides of the circular cross-section). But I was just asking for clarity.
@@Sembazuru actually, the diameter. So if 9.5mm dia shaft, 9.75-9.90mm hole.
L
Great tips!
I feel that watching this has saved a few kilos of filament fro the bin
One tip that was not mentionned that literally makes the difference between someone who knows the limit of 3D printing is using inserts.
Not only do they make your threads reusable, but they also force you to make your parts intelligently since you can't install them at random.
I'm kind of sad an "expert" did not mention this.
Edit: I'm working in engineering.
Please explain how to make chains!
According to this video everyone wjo watched it is a expert 3d printer even those who don't have a 3d printer
Бро, какие настройки нужно выставить чтоб печатать такие мосты как у тебя на стоковом ender 3pro?
Охлад решает
what silencer software do you use?
very cool, love the high level speed run through these tricks. i don't have a specific application at this point in time, but i love knowing the general designs that are possible. thank you!
Great video! I never knew about the gear add ins! Thanks! Also, for print-in-place prints how do you export seperate objects together in one STL file from fusion 360?
Since when is fusion free for personal? Last time I tried to use it, it won’t let you save more than one project unless you’re paying for it. And half the features are missing. Did I miss something??
the gear add on is the best
There is a reason why people left Fusion 360 a year ago. They stopped supporting STL or something like that
They made the free version very restrictive and lost many customers because of that, FreeCAD and other CAD programs have gained a lot of new users in the process.
@@htpkey Fusion 360 was free for non-commercialuse. They changed the rules later on and made it more restrective at some point
@@tomaszworoch True. They still offer a free "stripped-down" version of the program. But I would rather use something else.
STL works fine in Fusion 360.
@@DisorderedArray Then I do not know why did I leave this program xD
Which 3D printer do you use??
Actually most 8 year olds figure these Basic techniques out on tinkercad in like 2 months on their own.
Even better thread for the containers would be 2, 3 or 4 lead styles for faster opening or closing.
Good video. But I despise anyone who sells online courses.
Thanks! We have free lessons as well on our tutorial channel: www.youtube.com/@3DPrinterAcademyTutorials
@@3DPrinterAcademy Thanks, I will check it out. I actually also just downloaded the lock print. Really cool.
I’m having so much trouble with thread tolerances working together. I guess the answer is to get rid of my creality printer lol