I normally go for a M3 M4 M5 M6 or M8 screw when i have to fasten it to something. I normally make these by using a tapping tool. I had a M6 screw 3D printed with a M6 thread by making it 6mm in diameter and then, cutting the thread. It's extremely easy in a hole (keep in mind the wall thickness!) and even though it is quite hard to do on a bolt, then i'd say. An M6x50 is possible to make fully 3D printed. I know it's kind of cheating, but for really well working threads, this is the way to do it
Cake well if its M8 you could get more than 50mm in length. i mad an M6x30 when i did it, but the rod was stiff enough for a 50mm length. the problem is that you have to cut it in a rod. too thin and it'll break, and same goes for a too long rod. I'm in denmark so my thread is either iso or DIN. at work I've tried a 1/4" and a 1/8" thread. worked like a charm! hooe it helps
Cake well if its M8 you could get more than 50mm in length. i mad an M6x30 when i did it, but the rod was stiff enough for a 50mm length. the problem is that you have to cut it in a rod. too thin and it'll break, and same goes for a too long rod. I'm in denmark so my thread is either iso or DIN. at work I've tried a 1/4" and a 1/8" thread. worked like a charm! hooe it helps
I wish there were a "Lifesaver" button I could press, so "Like" will have to do. I've spent the past day going through various videos (even from Autocad!) that end up saying something like "Well, the thread profile doesn't turn out exactly like you wanted, but it's close." Your technique #3 is perfect for creating a thread that has a custom profile. I like a custom profile because I can control the overhang and clearance (tolerance). I've bookmarked this video because it shows the right way to make threads, simply and clearly.
I realize that this video is from 2 years ago and the menus have changed so when I figured out where the commands are in the newest version of Fusion this video is a lifesaver, thanks for your efforts to explain how these commands work, it really helps.
This trick to adjust the tolerances when using the Thread feature was just what I needed! Increasing it by 0.2mm on the side and 0.1mm on EACH flank worked perfect for me on my Ender 3 with some older filament (which might be part of the problem there).
Your videos have helped me with my 3d printing a lot. I recommend you quite often to anyone that wants to improve the physical properties of their 3d prints. This video, 4 years after you posted it, helped tremendously with the offset faces. Fusion 360's thread modeler is very weak, but that offset faces is extremely powerful. I have an M36 Aluminum Bolt that, based on measurements, is machines to be a fairly close fit. 3d printing a protective cap for the threads using the defaults in Fusion results in a cap that is simply too tight. My 3d printer is calibrated as closely as it can be, and often prints parts that thread or slip-fit together when I am in control of the tolerances. Just want you to know that even these old are super helpful. Thanks!
@powerChriZ The non-modeled option is useful for small holes or rods (think m3 size) that are too small to have threads printed, but should have threads cut. Fusion will provide the correct diameter for your hold/rod and document how you should cut the threads once the print is done. (Also it may use non-modeled threads in CAM but I don't know for sure)
This is the info I was looking for. Just made two parts and threaded them. After printing, I tried to thread them together and it was tough. So found this video and glad I did because I didn't know you can use Model to adjust the thread tolerance. Brilliant!
So happy I found this again. I was having REAL REAL problems dealing with threads. I basically had to chase all threads with a tap and die. Now I don't.
My friend sent me this video as I am having to 3D print threads as I don't have the taps needed. Your video is so clear and easy to follow! You even helped me with an another problem I was having (trying to make a slot in a cylinder). I am now subscribed!
I just printed my first 3D print last week making 3 different nuts and bolts to explore the SLA resin printer’s tolerance. I had okay results on my thread quality, but not crisp and clean. I think because of the supports blocking many of the threads, printing at 0.1 mm coarse layer setting, and my overall inexperience. Now I’ve been struggling the past 2 days trying to make custom buttress threads to replicate a 100 mm wide mouth plastic Nalgene cap with some additional mods. I’m a noob and was following another tutorial with mixed results. The third example of yours pointed out a few important details I kept getting confused on - basically external threads but modeled “inside” the cylinder. I didn’t realize that modeling it inside the cylinder was an option! That now accounts for my sizing being off the first few (ahem 20+) times. The chamfer part was also an important thing for me to see here since my design requires this as well. My part that I’m trying to model after/replicate is so tiny and really hard to get a good look at without cutting it in half. I wish someone could share semi-buttress thread profiles for SPI 100/415 Nalgene closure with me or point me to any good resources for plastic thread standards used in scientific and laboratory settings. Thanks for the informative video!
Happy Kitchen! I was afraid to go with Fusion 360 for my first CAD software for 3D printing. You maked it very easy to understand, thank you very much for sharing!!!
Just as an afterthought : If you know which gap tolerances your printer can handle ... with the section tool you can see if you can print thread rod and nut at the same time and position! Very nice tutorial, I didn't know Fusion 360 had such catalogue of threads by default ...
Yup, you're right. The thing is that the threads can have some very steep overhangs which can negatively influence the tolerances, so you might need to make it a little bit more loose.
This is fantastic! I have a broken filter on my air compressor and wanted to reprint a new one but wasn't sure how to model the threaded section of the old one as I am primarily a Sketchup user and making threads in Sketchup is kinda crummy. This video has given me all I need to know and some useful skills for other prints. Thanks so much, your video was nice and concise!
Ich habe jetzt schon ca 4Kg an Pla gedruckt und die meißten Teile hatten Gewinde. Hab mich schon gewundert das die Schrauben so schwer rein gingen. Ich hatte angenommen das M6 und kleiner nicht gedruckt werden kann und das der Slicer deshalb einfach einen Zylinder druckt..... Danke für das klasse Video!
Thank you for this; I was very confused about what the 'class' option meant in Fusion 360's thread tool. And I was also finding the inner and outer threads did not fit together at all after printing, so I am hoping that your method of adding more spacing tolerance will come in handy.
I'm a fresh owner of a engineer deree, so I make a decision to buy my first 3D printer. Your videos are for me like a mantra. Hope with your advise my Anycubic Mega Zero will work fine
We have a lot of problems printing threads in peek. Is there a rubric for determining the finest thread sizes/pitches that are possible for a given material/nozzle/temp, etc?
Thank you for the great video! The first thread I printed was way too tight, with modifying the thread surfaces it should probably work now! Greeting from Germany ;)
Kinda off topic here but I have noticed in the 3d printing community. There are a lot of people from europe. Its really nice because if I have a question about something at 4am my time I don't have to wait a while for an answer. Sure there are language barriers at times but its awesome. I do wonder though why this is. In the drone community it was mostly US people same with twisty puzzles.
Maybe it's because Reprap originated in the UK, Arduino was Italian and much of the driver software was written by Central Europeans. Extensive investment in CS education across Europe has likely driven this, I suspect. Hardware development and low scale manufacture happens in Europe, but the large scale manufacturing, as ever, comes from China. These are down to labour rates.
Thank you for this most excellent and concise tutorial. Pointing out the "Modeled" option just saved me hours of wasted human and print time. I see in your other videos that you are creating a lot of Primary information from your own research. I just sent you 12 Euros via PayPal. Please confirm that you received it and I am curious about how much of the 12 Euros that you actually get. Keep up the good work!
Very helpful Stephan cheers! Printing some threads right now!
7 ปีที่แล้ว
Oki, I understand, threads command is good for us lol. Great video, thx, I moved from Solidworks to Fusion 360 for manies raisons but threads is enought to change ;)
Just a quick update to the newer version of fusion: there is a new point in the dropdown-menu from the sweep command. Instead of using a guiderail you can use a guiding-surface. In this case it would have been the bottom of the model. It doesn't change the outcome. I like it better, since you have no (annoying) confusing guide rail in the model.
There is a helix plugin you can download for fusion 360 if you are on Windows. Just Google for "helix plugin fusion 360" it's called helix spline sketcher and it's on the Autodesk app store. Used it for Make Anything's springo tutorial and it would help with the third method.
Thanks for sharing. I'm interested especially at the third method but I was wondering what's the esiest way to obtain the correspondent female thread. Can you suggest? Thanks
i think it exploded your head because the first step is not required. just create a custom profile, then a helix, then sweep the profile on the helix and use that to cut the cylinder.
this might be a silly question but how do you know/measure the thread type of a real object? I mean how did you figure out your faucet thread was G3-1/4?
Like your thread descriptions. I made one change and got totally confused with the Section Analysis picture. Instead of the round nut, I made a polygon and the view REALLY changes! Can you possibly shed some light on what is going on? Using the newer version of Fusion if that matters.
Excellent demo. I was wondering if you have ever used a thread gauge to make custom threads. How would you measure a bolt or threaded hole unknown pitch to create a 3D printed part.
Please explain why you would choose to create a bolt with a diameter of 10mm and a nut with inner diameter of 8mm... and how on earth they end up fitting together. What's making you choose those numbers? Is there some sort of formula?
I have an issue with a threaded bolt which has a non-threaded stud extending past the end of the threads. I print it with 5 perimeters and the stud and threads are very strong. However, the point where the end of the threads and the stud meet is very weak and breaks right at that point. I believe its because the stud in smaller that the bolt and the perimeters do not match hence a very weak point. I could print it with 100% infill but that seems wasteful. In F360 I have extruded the end of the stud back into the threads hoping that would continue the 5 perimeter profile from the stud into the bolt but that's not how it works...at least Cura 4.5 did not slice it any differently. Since you are always interested in making things strong, I thought you might have a suggestion. Thanks
Selecting 'Exclusive' mode in 'Slicing Tolerance' should make threads work if otherwise they are a bit too tight. It makes sure the squish width of the plastic never exceeds the boundaries of the original model.
Nice video, learned some useful stuff. However, I wish you hadn't fast-forwarded the sketch on the advanced thread! I ended up watching through it on 0.25x playback, as it seemed like the constraints you were applying were rather important to the final outcome! :)
Hi, awesome explanation thanks for this video, I have one question How do I prevent the bolts cutting through the print when I tighten the bolts? is it possible to increase Infill % just around the bolt seating area.
Thank you for this tutorial i gonna make a little rounded box to experiment more ! I got a question : You think its possible to have a m6 thread who work on real m6 screws or its chasing the dragon because its too small ?
It should probably work if you use small layer heights. In such a case I'd rater recommend recutting them later with a tap or even embedding a real nut.
Another great tutorial! Are your models available for purchase? I am interested in that orange garden spray gun, I need to print myself a bunch of those.
Sorry I forgot to ask another question. I was trying to make ANSI threads 1/2x13 then get it to print PLA. Guess one has to convert between MM and Inch. I set the threads in Inches, then changed Fusion to MM and sized the nut. The nut came out correct size but the threads were too small. Can Fusion make ANSI threads when end goal is supposed to be a 3D printed item?
Awesome tutorial! Very informative. Is PLA the best material for parts that would come in contact with water? From what I read it is hygroscopic and over time it can become brittle and crack open. Maybe PETG?
weird that fusion doesn't let you just spicify 15.1 or something as the screw size. or has a gloval tolerance setting that automatically adjusts sizes for 3d printers
I try the offset face but it does nothing :( I can push the flat sides up and down tho EDIT: made a random circle to the same size as my cylinder and tried again and it worked. gotta love fusion 360, thanks a lot for this the screw worked amazingly at -0.2 :) awesome video :)
13:43-14:05 Wut? On that last technique, once you had created that triangular helical section, could you have just created/extruded a new cylindrical section matching the inside diameter of the helix and then merged them? If that doesn't work, could you explain why? In any case, thanks for the cool video.
What's your experience with 3D printed threads? Do they work for you? Did you get them to work with different materials besides PLA?
CNC Kitchen ABS works great, just a little bit tight which I need and it is very STRONG. l absolutely like your videos, awesome contents 👏.
I normally go for a M3 M4 M5 M6 or M8 screw when i have to fasten it to something. I normally make these by using a tapping tool. I had a M6 screw 3D printed with a M6 thread by making it 6mm in diameter and then, cutting the thread. It's extremely easy in a hole (keep in mind the wall thickness!) and even though it is quite hard to do on a bolt, then i'd say. An M6x50 is possible to make fully 3D printed. I know it's kind of cheating, but for really well working threads, this is the way to do it
So any M6x50 or just the one thread size you've used?
Cake well if its M8 you could get more than 50mm in length. i mad an M6x30 when i did it, but the rod was stiff enough for a 50mm length. the problem is that you have to cut it in a rod.
too thin and it'll break, and same goes for a too long rod.
I'm in denmark so my thread is either iso or DIN.
at work I've tried a 1/4" and a 1/8" thread. worked like a charm!
hooe it helps
Cake well if its M8 you could get more than 50mm in length. i mad an M6x30 when i did it, but the rod was stiff enough for a 50mm length. the problem is that you have to cut it in a rod.
too thin and it'll break, and same goes for a too long rod.
I'm in denmark so my thread is either iso or DIN.
at work I've tried a 1/4" and a 1/8" thread. worked like a charm!
hooe it helps
Six years later, this tutorial is still relevant and answered every single question I had about threads as a new consumer of Fusion 360 -- thank you!
And it's still missing the 3rd method marker on the timeline :D
I wish there were a "Lifesaver" button I could press, so "Like" will have to do. I've spent the past day going through various videos (even from Autocad!) that end up saying something like "Well, the thread profile doesn't turn out exactly like you wanted, but it's close."
Your technique #3 is perfect for creating a thread that has a custom profile. I like a custom profile because I can control the overhang and clearance (tolerance).
I've bookmarked this video because it shows the right way to make threads, simply and clearly.
Solidworks has a tool called spiral for the path and it makes making the thread so much easier for custom threads.
I realize that this video is from 2 years ago and the menus have changed so when I figured out where the commands are in the newest version of Fusion this video is a lifesaver, thanks for your efforts to explain how these commands work, it really helps.
Your trick of slightly adjusting the thread faces by 0.2mm and 0.1mm worked *perfectly* for me! Thanks a million :)
This is a completely amazing video! For anyone trying this in 2024, use the Pull-Push tool for changing the clearance of the threads in method 1
This trick to adjust the tolerances when using the Thread feature was just what I needed! Increasing it by 0.2mm on the side and 0.1mm on EACH flank worked perfect for me on my Ender 3 with some older filament (which might be part of the problem there).
Your videos have helped me with my 3d printing a lot. I recommend you quite often to anyone that wants to improve the physical properties of their 3d prints. This video, 4 years after you posted it, helped tremendously with the offset faces. Fusion 360's thread modeler is very weak, but that offset faces is extremely powerful.
I have an M36 Aluminum Bolt that, based on measurements, is machines to be a fairly close fit. 3d printing a protective cap for the threads using the defaults in Fusion results in a cap that is simply too tight. My 3d printer is calibrated as closely as it can be, and often prints parts that thread or slip-fit together when I am in control of the tolerances. Just want you to know that even these old are super helpful. Thanks!
Thank you!!! this helped so much i was breaking my head. Guys dont forget to print at a lower layer height. Threads absolutely suck with .3mm
I never clicked model... that's why I always ended up printing cylinders 😂
Glad you've learned something ;-)
yep... sounds familiar XD
This option saves rendering time. Having an assembly with lots of modeled threads will kill your PC.
@powerChriZ The non-modeled option is useful for small holes or rods (think m3 size) that are too small to have threads printed, but should have threads cut. Fusion will provide the correct diameter for your hold/rod and document how you should cut the threads once the print is done. (Also it may use non-modeled threads in CAM but I don't know for sure)
haha what a numpty
This is the info I was looking for. Just made two parts and threaded them. After printing, I tried to thread them together and it was tough. So found this video and glad I did because I didn't know you can use Model to adjust the thread tolerance. Brilliant!
The threading tolerance tricks are amazing. Thank you.
I just used this advanced method the other day to model some buttress threads which wasn’t something fusion can do out of the box. Very neat technique
I've been struggling printing M16x1 so many times with too "tight" thread. I'm going to try your tips.
I never knew making threads could be so simple thank you.
So happy I found this again. I was having REAL REAL problems dealing with threads. I basically had to chase all threads with a tap and die. Now I don't.
My friend sent me this video as I am having to 3D print threads as I don't have the taps needed. Your video is so clear and easy to follow! You even helped me with an another problem I was having (trying to make a slot in a cylinder). I am now subscribed!
Thanks, been struggling with threads and tolerance for a while and this sorted me out completely.
I just printed my first 3D print last week making 3 different nuts and bolts to explore the SLA resin printer’s tolerance. I had okay results on my thread quality, but not crisp and clean. I think because of the supports blocking many of the threads, printing at 0.1 mm coarse layer setting, and my overall inexperience. Now I’ve been struggling the past 2 days trying to make custom buttress threads to replicate a 100 mm wide mouth plastic Nalgene cap with some additional mods. I’m a noob and was following another tutorial with mixed results. The third example of yours pointed out a few important details I kept getting confused on - basically external threads but modeled “inside” the cylinder. I didn’t realize that modeling it inside the cylinder was an option! That now accounts for my sizing being off the first few (ahem 20+) times. The chamfer part was also an important thing for me to see here since my design requires this as well. My part that I’m trying to model after/replicate is so tiny and really hard to get a good look at without cutting it in half. I wish someone could share semi-buttress thread profiles for SPI 100/415 Nalgene closure with me or point me to any good resources for plastic thread standards used in scientific and laboratory settings. Thanks for the informative video!
Happy Kitchen!
I was afraid to go with Fusion 360 for my first CAD software for 3D printing. You maked it very easy to understand, thank you very much for sharing!!!
Thank you this was the easiest to follow and to understand out of all the thread guides I have watched 👍
Thanks for the help on that, the section analysis is really nice to make sure it is working. Couldn't quite see if the threads were matching up.
I had NO idea you could move the constraints to the floating window. Coming from solidworks, this discovery is a big win!
Just as an afterthought : If you know which gap tolerances your printer can handle ... with the section tool you can see if you can print thread rod and nut at the same time and position!
Very nice tutorial, I didn't know Fusion 360 had such catalogue of threads by default ...
Yup, you're right. The thing is that the threads can have some very steep overhangs which can negatively influence the tolerances, so you might need to make it a little bit more loose.
This is fantastic! I have a broken filter on my air compressor and wanted to reprint a new one but wasn't sure how to model the threaded section of the old one as I am primarily a Sketchup user and making threads in Sketchup is kinda crummy. This video has given me all I need to know and some useful skills for other prints. Thanks so much, your video was nice and concise!
Ich habe jetzt schon ca 4Kg an Pla gedruckt und die meißten Teile hatten Gewinde. Hab mich schon gewundert das die Schrauben so schwer rein gingen. Ich hatte angenommen das M6 und kleiner nicht gedruckt werden kann und das der Slicer deshalb einfach einen Zylinder druckt..... Danke für das klasse Video!
Excellent instruction. I appreciate the detail, research, libary, and of course, alternative methods.
Thank you for this; I was very confused about what the 'class' option meant in Fusion 360's thread tool. And I was also finding the inner and outer threads did not fit together at all after printing, so I am hoping that your method of adding more spacing tolerance will come in handy.
Great explanations of making threads in fusion 360. I just started in f360 and I really like it....It's very powerful.
Your video was very useful to me!!!! I had some tolerance problems in my threaded prints and with the Press Pull tool I fixed. Thanks
I'm a fresh owner of a engineer deree, so I make a decision to buy my first 3D printer. Your videos are for me like a mantra. Hope with your advise my Anycubic Mega Zero will work fine
We have a lot of problems printing threads in peek. Is there a rubric for determining the finest thread sizes/pitches that are possible for a given material/nozzle/temp, etc?
Thank you for the great video! The first thread I printed was way too tight, with modifying the thread surfaces it should probably work now!
Greeting from Germany ;)
It is the best video tutorial I've seen about types of threads. Thank you so much.
very good. im using solidworks seems there is no question about the tolerance and etc.. now im starting from zero for fusion 360
How to adjust tolerance - Exactly what I needed, thanks!
Thanks !!!! Had problems with the internal thread.... stupid modeling setting 😂👍👍👍
Kinda off topic here but I have noticed in the 3d printing community. There are a lot of people from europe. Its really nice because if I have a question about something at 4am my time I don't have to wait a while for an answer. Sure there are language barriers at times but its awesome. I do wonder though why this is. In the drone community it was mostly US people same with twisty puzzles.
Maybe it's because Reprap originated in the UK, Arduino was Italian and much of the driver software was written by Central Europeans. Extensive investment in CS education across Europe has likely driven this, I suspect. Hardware development and low scale manufacture happens in Europe, but the large scale manufacturing, as ever, comes from China. These are down to labour rates.
It's like that in nearly anything. Where do you hangout that any subject doesn't have a bunch of people from around the world?
15:20 "it sometimes screws it up" ... Wait I thought that's what we wanted! 😂
Thank you for this most excellent and concise tutorial. Pointing out the "Modeled" option just saved me hours of wasted human and print time.
I see in your other videos that you are creating a lot of Primary information from your own research. I just sent you 12 Euros via PayPal. Please confirm that you received it and I am curious about how much of the 12 Euros that you actually get.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks a lot! I'm happy that I could help. Received your donation, thank you so much! (Paypal kept 0.82€ by the way)
Very helpful Stephan cheers! Printing some threads right now!
Oki, I understand, threads command is good for us lol. Great video, thx, I moved from Solidworks to Fusion 360 for manies raisons but threads is enought to change ;)
Just a quick update to the newer version of fusion: there is a new point in the dropdown-menu from the sweep command. Instead of using a guiderail you can use a guiding-surface. In this case it would have been the bottom of the model. It doesn't change the outcome. I like it better, since you have no (annoying) confusing guide rail in the model.
Thank you for this. Stumbled across your comment and it fixes where my thread wanted to twist following a single rail.
I've had nothing but success with Fusion's built-in thread tool.
Me too. I had to stop using it, was too successful ! 😉
Very complete and well structured tutorial. Thanks.
The last method would be very very good for creating a custom auger bit I have a project that I might be able to use this then thank you very much
There is a helix plugin you can download for fusion 360 if you are on Windows. Just Google for "helix plugin fusion 360" it's called helix spline sketcher and it's on the Autodesk app store. Used it for Make Anything's springo tutorial and it would help with the third method.
Learned something again. Very helpful tuts. 👍👍
Thanks for sharing. I'm interested especially at the third method but I was wondering what's the esiest way to obtain the correspondent female thread. Can you suggest? Thanks
I liked the first two methods ... the third one caused a small explosion in my brain... great video, thank you
i think it exploded your head because the first step is not required. just create a custom profile, then a helix, then sweep the profile on the helix and use that to cut the cylinder.
@@constantinosschinas4503 How do you create a helix in fusion 360? :)
Only found this workaround so far
Fantastic, still very relevant and best explanation on TH-cam!
Ich bin bewundert mit dem Inhalt Qualität Ihr Videos, grüsse von Brasilien
Yet another terrific video. Thank you.
Thanks for posting this video it's very helpful in learning fusion 360 and what it can do!
I hope you do more.
this might be a silly question but how do you know/measure the thread type of a real object? I mean how did you figure out your faucet thread was G3-1/4?
Absolutely brilliant (or as Germans would say: nicht schlecht), answered my question perfectly!
Thank You. I have no luck (so far) to design NPT threads. Have You tried?
Where the threads are fairly small I make a suitable size hole and tap it with a standard thread tap.
Once again, you helped me out thanks
Like your thread descriptions. I made one change and got totally confused with the Section Analysis picture. Instead of the round nut, I made a polygon and the view REALLY changes! Can you possibly shed some light on what is going on? Using the newer version of Fusion if that matters.
Excellent demo. I was wondering if you have ever used a thread gauge to make custom threads. How would you measure a bolt or threaded hole unknown pitch to create a 3D printed part.
thank you i didn't know about the 3d sketch geometry.
Awesome tutorial on threads! Thanks for the help!
Please explain why you would choose to create a bolt with a diameter of 10mm and a nut with inner diameter of 8mm... and how on earth they end up fitting together. What's making you choose those numbers? Is there some sort of formula?
I have an issue with a threaded bolt which has a non-threaded stud extending past the end of the threads. I print it with 5 perimeters and the stud and threads are very strong. However, the point where the end of the threads and the stud meet is very weak and breaks right at that point. I believe its because the stud in smaller that the bolt and the perimeters do not match hence a very weak point. I could print it with 100% infill but that seems wasteful. In F360 I have extruded the end of the stud back into the threads hoping that would continue the 5 perimeter profile from the stud into the bolt but that's not how it works...at least Cura 4.5 did not slice it any differently.
Since you are always interested in making things strong, I thought you might have a suggestion.
Thanks
Selecting 'Exclusive' mode in 'Slicing Tolerance' should make threads work if otherwise they are a bit too tight. It makes sure the squish width of the plastic never exceeds the boundaries of the original model.
this is why i started using fusion :D
excelente tutorial, muchas gracias!!
i learned a lot. now to make my ventilation duct for a car project installation ready with this in mind! :) thanks!
This was very helpful and well explained.
For me it works the best if I move all the faces of the thread by 0.1* the pitch of the thread. This works for nuts and screws.
cam you do a video on knurling?
Nice video, learned some useful stuff. However, I wish you hadn't fast-forwarded the sketch on the advanced thread! I ended up watching through it on 0.25x playback, as it seemed like the constraints you were applying were rather important to the final outcome! :)
Thank you! Exactly what I was looking for.
Very helpful thanks!
Danke. Hab grad das erste mal Gewinde gebraucht und mich gefragt was da falsch läuft.
Hi, awesome explanation thanks for this video, I have one question How do I prevent the bolts cutting through the print when I tighten the bolts? is it possible to increase Infill % just around the bolt seating area.
Awesome video Stefan. Great expertise. Is this a camera the bottom right side of your heated bed?
Hi Thanks for great video
I am curious How can I make nuts for method 2 and 3 ??
using combine? plz let me know
Great video. How can I give the Chamfer end (like the last one) to the first one (using thread tool)?
Thanks a lot. Your fusion 360 tutorials are great. Keep it up.
Awesome video as always Stefan. Thank you.
This was super helpful, thank you!
Excellent video. Really Helpful. Thanks
Thanks Stefan, this was extremely helpful!!
How does Fusion360 still don't have a preset for 3D-printable threads? 🤔
By the way: Very good video! 👍🏻
Thank you for this tutorial i gonna make a little rounded box to experiment more ! I got a question : You think its possible to have a m6 thread who work on real m6 screws or its chasing the dragon because its too small ?
It should probably work if you use small layer heights. In such a case I'd rater recommend recutting them later with a tap or even embedding a real nut.
Thank you so much, best tutorial on TH-cam!
Another great tutorial! Are your models available for purchase? I am interested in that orange garden spray gun, I need to print myself a bunch of those.
very well explained, thanks
Thanks for this vid... it help me alot on Fusion 360
Excellent video, thanks for sharing!
Helped a lot for my project, thanks!
Sorry I forgot to ask another question. I was trying to make ANSI threads 1/2x13 then get it to print PLA. Guess one has to convert between MM and Inch. I set the threads in Inches, then changed Fusion to MM and sized the nut. The nut came out correct size but the threads were too small. Can Fusion make ANSI threads when end goal is supposed to be a 3D printed item?
Hi, What is the idea for Autodesk Inventor and Autodesk Fusion 360, Autodesk Inventor would desapear in the future? Thanks for your info!
Awesome tutorial! Very informative. Is PLA the best material for parts that would come in contact with water? From what I read it is hygroscopic and over time it can become brittle and crack open. Maybe PETG?
weird that fusion doesn't let you just spicify 15.1 or something as the screw size. or has a gloval tolerance setting that automatically adjusts sizes for 3d printers
This helped me, thank you and have a big thumb up
I try the offset face but it does nothing :( I can push the flat sides up and down tho
EDIT: made a random circle to the same size as my cylinder and tried again and it worked. gotta love fusion 360, thanks a lot for this the screw worked amazingly at -0.2 :) awesome video :)
13:43-14:05 Wut?
On that last technique, once you had created that triangular helical section, could you have just created/extruded a new cylindrical section matching the inside diameter of the helix and then merged them? If that doesn't work, could you explain why?
In any case, thanks for the cool video.