if you loo it the video of the rear duro bump stops you can see the u-bolts hit the frame, normally when you put that style u-bolt that has the treads facing up you are supposed to trim the threads down to 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch above the nuts, i thin that will also help as on those bigger bumps you will not be so harsh. also with out trimming them down will prevent frame damage ;)
Nice video. I have the archive garage rear bumps and their u bolt flip. I have stock fronts as of right now. One thing I noticed is you might want to cut your u bolts off down close to the nut. The bump stop might compress enough for your frame rail to hit the u bolt and that would not be a fun time.
Actually the OEM Bump stops are not even really bump stops. Your shocks will blow out. Thanks for your channel! Finding this kind of stuff has helped steer me in the right direction.
Mmmm, the OEM bumpstops are designed to work with OEM suspension. They should protect that at least. But, if you’re gonna get nice shocks, getting nice bumpstops should probably be on your list too Thanks for watching and commenting, I appreciate it!
Great footage. It took me a while to find video of the durobumps in action. Seems like its basically a nicer version of the oem setup tuned for offroadong.
So, looking at the slomo of the front Durobumps, I noticed that your lower control arms move quite a bit at the frame. You may need to look at your LCA bushings…
I bought me a 4runner and it's my frist 4x4 that i want to use for daily driver, weekend camping/overlanding no rock crawling and some road trips. Upon searching I saw a post somewhere where it was commented that rubber bumps should be the frist thing that you should really upgrade. Any thoguhts into performance to cost ratio between this brand, sumosrpings and the new commer Pete Perry parts. Cant find a single video that compares any, all videos are always a sponsor, or they were sent to the company to review at "no cost"
I would wonder one thing in particular...... The only the front rear being replaced, and being that it is taller all be it more progressive in compression, will this cause uneven wear/pressure on your lower control arm? What i mean is will you get more force applied to the rear portion of the LCA than the front portion vs. equal force applied to the front and back. If so, this seems like a fail in design to me. UNLESS the initial amount of compression on the Durobumps is SUPER soft and basically just slows down the whole process ever so slightly. Hopefully that makes sense, but I would think that this would be something worth considering from an engineering perspective.
It does make sense! And that’s an interesting thought to ponder. As I see it, it could cause uneven and undue force (and therefore mechanical stress). That’s more of a finite element analysis level of detail. I see a slight change in the moment around the shock mount occurring in this situation, with reaction forces at the LBJ and the lower control arm mounts changing slightly. But, remember, the LCA can and does take all kinds of forces, specifically the weight of the vehicle via the shock body. I’m not sure the change in magnitude of the force applied to the LCA mounts or LBJ mount by the bumpstop is a concerning magnitude compared to the other weight and force the LCA mounts and ball joint takes. I think it’s hard to know if or where you’re changing the force or stress to the system. The shock is going to bottom out or stop the suspensions uptravel, and that takes a set amount of force and therefore stress (force over area) on the parts of the LCA. The bumpstop engages sooner and is softer, and engages over a length (delta) long and firm enough to slow down the suspension before reaching the OEM bumpstop. The engagement length is a lot longer with the aftermarket bumpstop. This might mean lower or higher forces applied across the area (related to stress on LCA) Force = k* delta for springs. Stress = Force / area. You’re trading two glorified rocks for one really nice bumpstop. If you are concerned, you’re more than welcome to run front and rear.
Only problem is those front bumps will fall apart when the glue holding them together lets go. Mine were useless after two months and only one time offroad the glue just tore apart and i will not be buying again
if you loo it the video of the rear duro bump stops you can see the u-bolts hit the frame, normally when you put that style u-bolt that has the treads facing up you are supposed to trim the threads down to 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch above the nuts, i thin that will also help as on those bigger bumps you will not be so harsh. also with out trimming them down will prevent frame damage ;)
Nice video. I have the archive garage rear bumps and their u bolt flip. I have stock fronts as of right now. One thing I noticed is you might want to cut your u bolts off down close to the nut. The bump stop might compress enough for your frame rail to hit the u bolt and that would not be a fun time.
Ya, the u-bolts definitely do need to be trimmed! Although I can’t imagine smacking the bumpstop much harder than I did in the video, haha
Actually the OEM Bump stops are not even really bump stops. Your shocks will blow out. Thanks for your channel! Finding this kind of stuff has helped steer me in the right direction.
Mmmm, the OEM bumpstops are designed to work with OEM suspension. They should protect that at least. But, if you’re gonna get nice shocks, getting nice bumpstops should probably be on your list too
Thanks for watching and commenting, I appreciate it!
Great footage. It took me a while to find video of the durobumps in action. Seems like its basically a nicer version of the oem setup tuned for offroadong.
Thank you! Ya that’s an accurate summary. Just a more robust part
Great vídeo as usual! If I only lifted the front I should only replace the front bumstop? Or You recommend to upgrade all of them?
Since these don't mess with suspension travel, you should be fine to put them on either end, stock or lifted. I would upgrade all of them if you can!
Good content bro.
Thank you!
awesome video man!
Thank you! Thanks for watching
Sick truck! And well done video. You’re in Boise yeah?
Thank you! Yep, Boise area
So, looking at the slomo of the front Durobumps, I noticed that your lower control arms move quite a bit at the frame. You may need to look at your LCA bushings…
Good catch! I'm seeing some movement, but I also feel like it's warped by the camera shaking.
I bought me a 4runner and it's my frist 4x4 that i want to use for daily driver, weekend camping/overlanding no rock crawling and some road trips. Upon searching I saw a post somewhere where it was commented that rubber bumps should be the frist thing that you should really upgrade. Any thoguhts into performance to cost ratio between this brand, sumosrpings and the new commer Pete Perry parts. Cant find a single video that compares any, all videos are always a sponsor, or they were sent to the company to review at "no cost"
These are my first bumpstops. I couldn’t tell you if any of the others are better or worse.
Nice!
Do you have wheel spacers on the front? If so what thickness.
I do not! Just the stock wheels
You need to flip the u bolts in the rear back to how they were. Bolts down not up. They bolts will hit your frame under load.
No. It’s a u bolt flip kit…. The bolts can be trimmed, and I’ve trimmed them since this video
I just purchased a front set for my 04 Tundra. With the air bag setup in the rear I don't need them.
Did you consider the sumo.spring?
No, I did not. I’ve heard/seen decent things about them though
I would wonder one thing in particular......
The only the front rear being replaced, and being that it is taller all be it more progressive in compression, will this cause uneven wear/pressure on your lower control arm? What i mean is will you get more force applied to the rear portion of the LCA than the front portion vs. equal force applied to the front and back. If so, this seems like a fail in design to me. UNLESS the initial amount of compression on the Durobumps is SUPER soft and basically just slows down the whole process ever so slightly.
Hopefully that makes sense, but I would think that this would be something worth considering from an engineering perspective.
It does make sense! And that’s an interesting thought to ponder.
As I see it, it could cause uneven and undue force (and therefore mechanical stress). That’s more of a finite element analysis level of detail. I see a slight change in the moment around the shock mount occurring in this situation, with reaction forces at the LBJ and the lower control arm mounts changing slightly.
But, remember, the LCA can and does take all kinds of forces, specifically the weight of the vehicle via the shock body.
I’m not sure the change in magnitude of the force applied to the LCA mounts or LBJ mount by the bumpstop is a concerning magnitude compared to the other weight and force the LCA mounts and ball joint takes.
I think it’s hard to know if or where you’re changing the force or stress to the system. The shock is going to bottom out or stop the suspensions uptravel, and that takes a set amount of force and therefore stress (force over area) on the parts of the LCA.
The bumpstop engages sooner and is softer, and engages over a length (delta) long and firm enough to slow down the suspension before reaching the OEM bumpstop. The engagement length is a lot longer with the aftermarket bumpstop. This might mean lower or higher forces applied across the area (related to stress on LCA) Force = k* delta for springs. Stress = Force / area. You’re trading two glorified rocks for one really nice bumpstop.
If you are concerned, you’re more than welcome to run front and rear.
Only problem is those front bumps will fall apart when the glue holding them together lets go. Mine were useless after two months and only one time offroad the glue just tore apart and i will not be buying again
Oh man, that sucks. Thanks for commenting
overpriced. I rather get energy suspension for way less.