As a female climber and also a physicist I do really really really love your videos! And today I would like to tell you my experience buying harnesses and if you get to read this, or anyone else in the community, I would like to know you opinion and if you know about similar situations. It was VERY VERY VERY difficult for me to find a harness, even among the lady designs and yet I am not fully satisfied. As you explain in the video, female versions have smaller waist loop and bigger leg loops, however, they do not match very well from my experience. It happens that my sizes are 61cm on the wais perimeter and 56cm on the legs perimeter, which I don't think are so weird sizes, and most of the harnesses starts from 65cm or 70cm in the waist loop, including small sizes of women harnesses (Petzl, Mammut, Black Diamond...) !! However, there are a few brands in which the XS size might start in 60cm (Camp), but the leg loops are just too small for me, making my nightmare continue. At the end I bought a lady harness from Ocun that had a wide range for adjustability in both loops and I thought I was happy until it arrived to my place and surprise surprise.... THE ELASTICS YOU TOLD ABOUT IN THIS VIDEO WERE JUST TOO SHORT!! I also wondered why they were there until I had this experience and I understood. As you said, we women wear the waist loop a little bit higher than men due to our anatomy, therefore these elastics should also be longer as the distance between both loops is greater, but in this case they were not! And I do not want to tell here what part of my female anatomy gets too much pressure when hanging on the harness... if you know what I mean. Thanks for the videos again!!
My girlfriend had a similar problem, and ended up buying a black diamond harness that had two buckles on the waist band (one each side of the belay loop). This gave more adjustment for her small waist. She hasn't mentioned any issues with the elastics and seems pretty happy with it.
You are absolutely right! my perimeters are around 5cm more than yours on both my waist and legs, so I could fit into standardized harnesses, but only if I adjust my waist loop at the tightest and leg loops at the loosest.
I found out today that my harness hasn't been safe to climb with for... well, years. I already knew somewhat, but buying a new one is psychological torture. My leg/hip ratio seems to be baffling for harness creators as well, while my sollution would be to make the leg straps adjustable.
As a beginner climber getting back into it after...a LONG time (20+ yrs), your videos are AMAZINGLY informative. I love the depth of information and approach you take. Thank you very much for your incredible videos!
Part about doing my business blew my mind! I have this feature in my harness but had no idea! My life is so much better now. Tbh I can't wait to use it so much that I think I'll wear it at the moment and try. Thank you!!!!!
Nice video about the harnesses, I really like it. Just a few comment: 1. If you are planning to do Alpine or Winter climbing choose that where it contains some extra ice screw clipper. 2. Worn out: after long crack or chimney climbing always check the back of the harness!
I am a real nube to this and have near to no climbing experience but maybe a new passion: in the woods newly discovered that my husband and I love climbing trees. Your videos help getting an overview on how to do that safely. Thanks! As a medical practitioner I do feel it's important to state: the leg loops must be kept as loose as you said because when you hang after falling, and they are too tight, dangerous things can happen: your blood-circulation can be compromised, blood rushes to your legs and doesn't get back to your heart and head which can make you lose consciousness and in very extrem causes even lead to death. The legs can also be cut-off from blood circulation. This can cause long-term damage. Also a sudden re-circulation after a long cut-off can cause a heart- malfunction by the sudden gush of blood. These things can happen within 20 Minutes. Don't want to scare you off, but as far as we learned in med-school: keeping leg-loopes "loose-ish" is not just for more leg-movement... ❤
You are a legend, thanks for sharing! I was hoping you would do a bonus round of which harness is suitable fr highliners too, since we have the exact same options as climbers :) thank you once again BEN!
Thanks! And... I suck at Highlinening :D So would not be the best person to listen for advices :D And yes I don't think that there are Harnesses specifically designed for Highlinening... it's to small for manufacturers... So you have to pick what suits your needs out of what exists for other sports... But as falls go, the only difference I see that in Highlines you take way more inverted falls compared to sport climbing falls. So I would not go with super skinny waist loop, that might not be the most comfy.
@@HardIsEasy hope to see you highlining soon, feel free to connect with us if you plan to make a trip to India to climb and highline, would be happy to help you out in every way possible for me! We usually prefer for padded harnesses like black diamond big gun or momentum, but I always wonder if there are any other factors that go into it. This topic would make for a good cross over episode with Ryan ;) i love it when you'll are in each others videos. Cheers!
I just took a class to get Belay certified for my 11 year old twins yesterday. The class was 2 hours including practice and was good but there was still a lot I didn't know. Your videos have been wonderfully informative. I like how you explain why you do things a certain way, what happens if you don't do things the correct way and options to keep safe. My kids just love climbing and being informed will help me keep them safe. Thanks for your wonderful videos!
Just binged the entire series in a day! This is an AMAZING resource, regardless of how long someone has climbed/how experienced they are. I'm definitely donating to the cause. Now, I need more in the series! Can't wait for the next one!
I just clicked on the Mammut link for the Sender harness and bought one. Awesome intel and I hope it helps you make more informative videos. A great series for sure
Hello! Just wanted to say that your video about physics of falling showed up in my recommendations and I really loved your energy even though I'm not a climber. Subscribed just because I think you deserve recognition for being so good at explaining things!
I think you should add the importance of checking that the buckle of the harness are properly locked (strap goes one way and then back ). I have witness some near misses for people not knowing this and harness opening for not locking them properly.
I wear a female Edelrid harness. It's neon green, yellow, and a bright blue, which I actually like the color. I had a men's Edelrid and it was not comfortable enough. I sat in my harness while I was watching a friend set up an anchor and clean just to make sure he was okay. I saw up there for at least 20 minutes it felt like. It was very uncomfortable. One day one of our friends at the gym walked out with this female version, bright colors and all. He's sponsored so sometimes he just gets products sent to him and I've never seen that specific one at any of the stores I shopped at for gear. I asked him, "Bro where did you get that harness?" "We have it here now, it's a female harness" I walked towards the back to go find it, "I'm getting it". Bought it and never regretted it. Knowing that the female harnesses do have bigger leg straps as I'm bulkier guy compared to the average climber. Bigger hamstrings and quads. It's probably the most comfortable harness I've owned so far. If it's comfortable wear it. Obviously this goes with climbing shoes too as I've seen guys wear ladies shoes and some ladies where guys shoes (because they're usually wider). Since my "old" harness was still very new (about a month or so), I gave it to one of our other climbing friends. He's had his harness since he started climbing (older gentleman). I said we had talked about him getting a new harness, so now he can have my old one and not have to buy a new one.
The leg loop straps were a mystery to me until one day I was climbing on a rental harness and it didn't have them. The leg loops kept falling down behind my knees and you can't move your legs properly when your leg loops are caught on your knees... Lesson learned.
Great video as usual. Detachable leg elastics,…hmmm 🤔. A side discussion that won’t be off-channel is winter use of harnesses. I have a slightly bulkier set-up for ski-touring and ice-climbing.
In terms of fit, I recommend tightening the waist and legs straps as tight as possible. The last thing you want is to fall out of your harness. I also wear my skydiving rig the same way. The tighter, the closer fit, the less movement the harness will have around your body. If doing your EP's, your handles shouldn't move. Also, when deploying, you don't want unintended canopy input due to loose leg straps.
Packing volume is also a very important to consider when choosing a harness. It's always better to have more space in your backpack. :) Great series anyway, thanks!
Very good video with lots of usefull information, albeit a little to late for me as I've already bought mine ;) The biggest broblem I had was finding a model that was big enough for my body size as I am 187cm (6'2") tall and weigh in at 125kg (275lbs). I needed a harness to fit my waist 115cm (44") and thighs 70cm (27.5") and the only one I managed to find was Black Diamond's Momentum Harness Moonstone 2XL =)
Wow! I just discovered some of your videos earlier this week. REI is having a sale and I'm looking at the harnesses, and saw this video. Then discovered you literally just released it. Crazy!
Another fact about durability is that some brands put a warning color in the inside of your belay loop and/ or tying loops. When you see that color, often red or orange, you know its time to change your gear
They're haul loops made for hauling as you said. Like rope, rucksack. The Black Diamond doesn't have one. The 0 Newton applies to the hook meant for the elasticated adjustment straps.
Tremendous fan of the Mammut Sender in the emergency orange, only major qualm is the elastic tensioner for the leg loops adjusts too easily due to the quick adjust slide. Had to trim this all off and sew the elastic to itself to maintain the desired tension. Also, wish there was a version with strictly the nylon gear loops instead of the larger coated ones. The nylon loops are much lower profile, which when I am projecting I would far rather.
So much to this I learned all my climbing in the military and we tended to use the stabo rig out web gear was attached to same as the guys in Vietnam who developed it edit I should say we learned the swiss seat as well
Thank you for making this series, I always find your videos interesting and helpful. On the subject of this video I was wondering if an additional chest harness is something that is commonly used or if it's used only in some particular cases, does it provide extra safety?
Thank You! Chest harnesses are almost never used in Sport Climbing. If you can't make your harness stay above your hip bones to not slip down - then chest harness could help... You might find this set up for little kids.
Chest harnesses are used in a few cases. For example in alpine climbing, if the climbers need to take a heavy backpack. In this case their center of gravity moves up so that with the sport climbing harness alone they tend to flick back. A chest harness prevents this. Another case is for very young children, like below 7 years.
When carrying a backpack your center of mass is shifted to almost above the belly button. You inevitably tip backwards when sitting in your harness and falling with such a heavy mass you hurt your back pretty badly. A chest harness solves these problems. Basically they are safer when carrying a backpack and overall more conveniet
Love your videos, really well explained with practical application scenarios and especially stuff a normal climber was always wondering about: what🤨, how😱 and why🤔.
I bought my first harness a few weeks ago but I've been in lock down ever since so haven't climbed on it yet. I was wondering what the tiny loop on the back was for! So far I just use it to hang up my harness
0KN haul loop are used because (I was told) if your haul bag at the anchor were to fall while attached to you, the loop will break and there is less chance of you pulling your gear out and fall to your death.
Thank you very much for your videos. Can you please explain a little more about the Mammut Indicator technology? I actually bought a set of Mammut Indicator Quickdraws when I was climbing in Andalusia and realised I didn't have enough Quickdraws, but now I can't find any more information about the technology. And just a small detail, you mainly talked about "ultralight" harnesses for sport climbing. It's a bit pity that you didn't cover other types of harnesses, such as those for climbing, full body, ski alpinism or big wall. It would be interesting for me, and I hope for the others too, but I understand that the video can take hours.
Useful - although I was expecting to see your opinions on single tie-in point harnesses (eg Petzl Pandion, DMM Centre, etc). Have you covered that in any videos?
I love the way you explain things not just saying what you are suposed to do acording to theory but allso explaning what happends when you do things in uncorrect ways. I don´t know if you´ll ever see this coment but I have a question. What´s the problem with you tying yourself to the harnes with a carabiner if you do it in the belay loop (so it won´t load in a triaxial way) and you do it with a belay carabiner which would avoid cross load. I´ve seen you tie yourself with 2 carabiners with the gates facing away of each other and I understand it would be something similar. It would not be to use it in sport climbing, but in small first or second grade step ups allong a mountaineering route for an extra safety but trying to save time as it would be a repeated process. I apologize for the huge text but it´s something I have not found discused in youtube.
Hie there, I noticed that this video is not in your belay master class playlist as well, Can you please add it in as well? Thank you and love all your videos and appreciate your detailed introduction and explanations
On my harness the load-bearing straps wore down quickest. Around the buckles they got really furry which made me retire the harness. Also the leg loops suffered from a lot of abrasion because of walking around in the harness.
Any chance you could do a video on suspension trauma, I had someone with considerable experience tell me that sitting for more than 7 minutes in a harness is bad for you. What are the best ways to avoid trauma if you are in a situation where you have to stay suspended for an extended period of time?
Thank you for the videos of the series so far! My harness is already pretty dirty just from using it the last couple of months outside. Do you know if it's possible to wash the harness?
You should check out your manufacturer recommendations on it to be safe. However, mine says that it is safe to wash with gentle soap. I use Dr. Bronner's pure castille soap personally. Just a plain soap with no additives. I hand wash in a clean Rubbermaid container that I know hasn't had any cleaning chemicals in it. I don't do it in the sink because there could be residual cleaning chemicals in it from the last time I cleaned it. Then I rinse it really well and let it air dry on a drying rack (not hanging). It worked really well! Looked like new. But again, I would refer to your harness manufacturer recs. You can just Google for it easily.
Great video, it is realy intresting fore me to see these sport climbing harneses vs the tree climbing harneses wich i use as an arborist like how minimalistic these harneses ar
Not really a climber but worked at a rock wall belaying people almost 2 decades ago. I do however use my climbing gear for going up mast of sailboats.. the methods that are common in the sailing world are not as safe as my climbing gear I feel.
in addtion to the lanyard ( I got Petzl Scorpio Vertigo Lanyard) what type of harness did you use, I'm looking at some ultralightweight type like "Petzl TOUR Harness - Lightweight Harness for Glacier Travel and Ski Touring" Would it be sufficient for via Ferrata, or do I need a full climbing harness. I'm planning on using it for Alta Via 2 route, its not technically sports climbing?.
It’s a good and well explained video about harness. However, I am a little bit sad to not have seen any full body harness presented. I feel like there are so little reliable information about these. But I think they still deserve to be talked about since they are also used by climberd for many reasons.
Yes. I understand that the main focus is on sport climbing, but I feel that your videos would be also useful for other applications, for alpine climbers, industrial rope access climbers, firefighters, and so on. The basics are the same, but I would gladly watch a separate series for any other style of climbing
@@ffoska I mean, that requires the person to know about those things. I don't think he should be talking about those if he doesn't have experience with them. This is a sport climbing channel after all. Also, algorithm. Creators need to create things that stay "on brand" for their youtube channels otherwise the algorithm stops suggesting their channel to their audience. Many channels die while trying to "diversify".
@@wlthr yeah you might be right. But still the quality of this content is very good, and it might be his expirience, but also the presentation. Maybe get the experts on his show? And yeah chances are, there are chanels dedicated to other areas
I'd argue that there is almost no amateur use for a full body harness, and therefore there is no space for a "masterclass" for professionnals on youtube. If you are talking about shoulder straps for caving for example then yes it would have been interesting to talk about those things ! Cheers
Thank you, and yes these videos are mostly targeted for Sport Climbers. Covering all types of climbing, especially professional work industry, would make videos insanely long / broad and very hard to produce requiring to understand all different areas and safety requirements.
In what way is a rock climbing harness better than a construction/tree harness? The only things I see different is that the belay loop that connects the waist loop to the leg loops while the fall protection harness have a metal ring on the waist loop only.
quick question, quite often you (and other climbers) will say the word "retire" when it come to gear that you shouldn't use anymore. But i always wondered what then? Do you just bin it? are there recycling plants you can give them to? Just recently I had to cut my rope because of damage and the guy at the gym said I could still use the slightly damaged rope for static protection, and could cut it up and turn it into other useful gear (i.e. slings). Would you consider doing a video about what to do with retired gear (if there's much else you can do besides bin it)? Thanks!
I use my old harness for training at gym, instead of the classic gym belts to load more weight in some exercises (ie pull ups). Carabiniers became very useful for everyday life: key rings, replacement parts for dog's collar ecc. Ropes became standard ropes. You can use all of your fantasy, but don't use for climb anymore.
I do not remember you speaking about it in the Sling episode. -The belay loop is often used to put slings or lanyard. Is this an OK behavior or should it be avoided? I do not feel confortable to thread my stuff through the small space around the belay loop to get the two "tie in loops". (And I do know that if you put them on belay loop, they should be removed to avoid wear) -second question: during an abseil, should you put both belay device & third hand on the belay loop? is it considered as redundant? Thanks for the quality of you videos, much appreciated ! :-)
My opinion here: 1- if you put your lanyard/sling on the belay loop, when anchored it would be same as having the rope tied to the belay loop, it probably won't kill you, but it might get uncomfortable or harder to position yourself, one can argue on redundancy of having the sling on two loops, and I personally found way easier to manage the gear on different places, but it is just how I've learned, metal on the belay loop, softies on the tie in haha 2- I use a multi chain so I can still have redundancy when abseiling, having the device on one loop and the third hand on the harness., I've seen people using the leg loop to attach the third hand, but it looks very sketchy, wouldn't recommend, and honestly the third hand is supposed to backup your hands as the name suggest, and not the device so I personally don't have problems on not having redundancy between those two, if that's the case. But again it's only how I learned. What's your personal on those questions you've asked?
#1 I talked about that in Sling episode towards the end... #2 Not sure if I understand your question, but you might want to look up for extended rappel - maybe that answers your question.
@@HardIsEasy @Hard Is Easy 2- I do extend my ATC with a sling which is attached to my belay loop. And I put my prusik below it but also clipped to my belay loop. Thus I'm wondering if it is considered not safe or "it's super good enough" like and other TH-camr would say. Or maybe as Heitor mentioned, it's my ATC that should be extended but attached to the tie in.
@@HeitorxD1 thanks for your answer ! I'm too new to have a lot of stuff going on my harness I guess. Because since I have only the rope attached on the tie in, it feels natural to put the lanyard on the belay loop when leading. So I do have 1 or 2 of them on it. (For sure always loaded and not above the anchor point)
Hi there! On a new harness I have wrapped paracord lines around belaying loop and the tie-in points, in order to prevent chaffing. I'm going to use this harness only on Via Ferrata. Bad/ good ideea?
how is nobody commenting on the "or sometimes no pants"?
Compression shorts for the win
Because nobody cares.
As a female climber and also a physicist I do really really really love your videos! And today I would like to tell you my experience buying harnesses and if you get to read this, or anyone else in the community, I would like to know you opinion and if you know about similar situations.
It was VERY VERY VERY difficult for me to find a harness, even among the lady designs and yet I am not fully satisfied. As you explain in the video, female versions have smaller waist loop and bigger leg loops, however, they do not match very well from my experience.
It happens that my sizes are 61cm on the wais perimeter and 56cm on the legs perimeter, which I don't think are so weird sizes, and most of the harnesses starts from 65cm or 70cm in the waist loop, including small sizes of women harnesses (Petzl, Mammut, Black Diamond...) !! However, there are a few brands in which the XS size might start in 60cm (Camp), but the leg loops are just too small for me, making my nightmare continue.
At the end I bought a lady harness from Ocun that had a wide range for adjustability in both loops and I thought I was happy until it arrived to my place and surprise surprise.... THE ELASTICS YOU TOLD ABOUT IN THIS VIDEO WERE JUST TOO SHORT!! I also wondered why they were there until I had this experience and I understood.
As you said, we women wear the waist loop a little bit higher than men due to our anatomy, therefore these elastics should also be longer as the distance between both loops is greater, but in this case they were not! And I do not want to tell here what part of my female anatomy gets too much pressure when hanging on the harness... if you know what I mean.
Thanks for the videos again!!
Thank you your opinion I from HK
My girlfriend had a similar problem, and ended up buying a black diamond harness that had two buckles on the waist band (one each side of the belay loop). This gave more adjustment for her small waist. She hasn't mentioned any issues with the elastics and seems pretty happy with it.
You are absolutely right! my perimeters are around 5cm more than yours on both my waist and legs, so I could fit into standardized harnesses, but only if I adjust my waist loop at the tightest and leg loops at the loosest.
If it's any consolation my bits get bunched in pretty much any harness I've worn
I found out today that my harness hasn't been safe to climb with for... well, years. I already knew somewhat, but buying a new one is psychological torture. My leg/hip ratio seems to be baffling for harness creators as well, while my sollution would be to make the leg straps adjustable.
Climbing for 10 years and still learning.
Great series!
Realising I can just remove the legs strap to “do my business” without having to remove the harness 🤣 priceless, thank you!
I had no idea…. Oh my god! I feel cheated.
🤯
also lets you go #2 when big wall climbing, because not going for several days is not good.
When I started climbing I asked if I could do that and my friend told me that’s not what it’s for 😐
Where does he mention this?
As a beginner climber getting back into it after...a LONG time (20+ yrs), your videos are AMAZINGLY informative. I love the depth of information and approach you take. Thank you very much for your incredible videos!
Part about doing my business blew my mind! I have this feature in my harness but had no idea! My life is so much better now. Tbh I can't wait to use it so much that I think I'll wear it at the moment and try. Thank you!!!!!
Nice video about the harnesses, I really like it.
Just a few comment:
1. If you are planning to do Alpine or Winter climbing choose that where it contains some extra ice screw clipper.
2. Worn out: after long crack or chimney climbing always check the back of the harness!
I am a real nube to this and have near to no climbing experience but maybe a new passion: in the woods newly discovered that my husband and I love climbing trees. Your videos help getting an overview on how to do that safely. Thanks! As a medical practitioner I do feel it's important to state: the leg loops must be kept as loose as you said because when you hang after falling, and they are too tight, dangerous things can happen: your blood-circulation can be compromised, blood rushes to your legs and doesn't get back to your heart and head which can make you lose consciousness and in very extrem causes even lead to death. The legs can also be cut-off from blood circulation. This can cause long-term damage. Also a sudden re-circulation after a long cut-off can cause a heart- malfunction by the sudden gush of blood. These things can happen within 20 Minutes. Don't want to scare you off, but as far as we learned in med-school: keeping leg-loopes "loose-ish" is not just for more leg-movement... ❤
You are a legend, thanks for sharing! I was hoping you would do a bonus round of which harness is suitable fr highliners too, since we have the exact same options as climbers :) thank you once again BEN!
Thanks! And... I suck at Highlinening :D So would not be the best person to listen for advices :D And yes I don't think that there are Harnesses specifically designed for Highlinening... it's to small for manufacturers... So you have to pick what suits your needs out of what exists for other sports...
But as falls go, the only difference I see that in Highlines you take way more inverted falls compared to sport climbing falls. So I would not go with super skinny waist loop, that might not be the most comfy.
@@HardIsEasy hope to see you highlining soon, feel free to connect with us if you plan to make a trip to India to climb and highline, would be happy to help you out in every way possible for me! We usually prefer for padded harnesses like black diamond big gun or momentum, but I always wonder if there are any other factors that go into it. This topic would make for a good cross over episode with Ryan ;) i love it when you'll are in each others videos. Cheers!
Namaste dost!
Knowing what the detachable elastic straps are for is mindblowing and lifechanging wow
I just took a class to get Belay certified for my 11 year old twins yesterday. The class was 2 hours including practice and was good but there was still a lot I didn't know. Your videos have been wonderfully informative. I like how you explain why you do things a certain way, what happens if you don't do things the correct way and options to keep safe. My kids just love climbing and being informed will help me keep them safe. Thanks for your wonderful videos!
"You don't need stuff dangling around you when you're climbing"
Quickdraws, chalk bag, cams, etc...: *are we a joke to you.*
Haha, I thought and said the same thing to my partner when we were watching :D
🤣
It is awersome the fact that as much as you know, more frightening is to remember how you did in the past....amazing videos, congrats.
Yippee! Thanks for you amazing climbing series!
also, chest harnesses are used for children as well sometimes (when the center oof gravity is too high up)
@@chaosengine4597 xD
Another great video! Obviously paused it to put my harness on and check the leg loops haha
Just binged the entire series in a day! This is an AMAZING resource, regardless of how long someone has climbed/how experienced they are. I'm definitely donating to the cause.
Now, I need more in the series! Can't wait for the next one!
Wow, one day!?
I just clicked on the Mammut link for the Sender harness and bought one. Awesome intel and I hope it helps you make more informative videos. A great series for sure
Hello! Just wanted to say that your video about physics of falling showed up in my recommendations and I really loved your energy even though I'm not a climber. Subscribed just because I think you deserve recognition for being so good at explaining things!
Bought the sender harness from the video. Honestly better than I expected! It's sturdy, very comfy, and beautiful. Couldn't be happier with it.
I think you should add the importance of checking that the buckle of the harness are properly locked (strap goes one way and then back ). I have witness some near misses for people not knowing this and harness opening for not locking them properly.
Another amazing addition to the belay masterclass
Thank you Ben !
Aaah thank you so much! It helps a lot!
Awesome! I'm so glad I learned why those straps detach....you just saved me so much time when I'm take a pee break! 😆
I was so curious about the gendered harnesses. Thank you!
Great explanations as always ! And honesty, the plastic protection on the Mammut harness seems great, I will check it out !
I wear a female Edelrid harness. It's neon green, yellow, and a bright blue, which I actually like the color. I had a men's Edelrid and it was not comfortable enough. I sat in my harness while I was watching a friend set up an anchor and clean just to make sure he was okay. I saw up there for at least 20 minutes it felt like. It was very uncomfortable. One day one of our friends at the gym walked out with this female version, bright colors and all. He's sponsored so sometimes he just gets products sent to him and I've never seen that specific one at any of the stores I shopped at for gear.
I asked him, "Bro where did you get that harness?"
"We have it here now, it's a female harness"
I walked towards the back to go find it, "I'm getting it". Bought it and never regretted it.
Knowing that the female harnesses do have bigger leg straps as I'm bulkier guy compared to the average climber. Bigger hamstrings and quads. It's probably the most comfortable harness I've owned so far. If it's comfortable wear it. Obviously this goes with climbing shoes too as I've seen guys wear ladies shoes and some ladies where guys shoes (because they're usually wider).
Since my "old" harness was still very new (about a month or so), I gave it to one of our other climbing friends. He's had his harness since he started climbing (older gentleman). I said we had talked about him getting a new harness, so now he can have my old one and not have to buy a new one.
All my harness mystery solved. Thanks for your humble presentation.
Cute orange harness, and perfect English so I can practice listening. Many thanks =)
The leg loop straps were a mystery to me until one day I was climbing on a rental harness and it didn't have them. The leg loops kept falling down behind my knees and you can't move your legs properly when your leg loops are caught on your knees... Lesson learned.
the moment at 7:32 made me laugh so much! thanks for your good vibes and no-nonsense attitude. I will be supporting you for sure!
Great video as usual. Detachable leg elastics,…hmmm 🤔.
A side discussion that won’t be off-channel is winter use of harnesses. I have a slightly bulkier set-up for ski-touring and ice-climbing.
In terms of fit, I recommend tightening the waist and legs straps as tight as possible. The last thing you want is to fall out of your harness. I also wear my skydiving rig the same way. The tighter, the closer fit, the less movement the harness will have around your body. If doing your EP's, your handles shouldn't move. Also, when deploying, you don't want unintended canopy input due to loose leg straps.
Packing volume is also a very important to consider when choosing a harness. It's always better to have more space in your backpack. :)
Great series anyway, thanks!
Very good video with lots of usefull information, albeit a little to late for me as I've already bought mine ;) The biggest broblem I had was finding a model that was big enough for my body size as I am 187cm (6'2") tall and weigh in at 125kg (275lbs). I needed a harness to fit my waist 115cm (44") and thighs 70cm (27.5") and the only one I managed to find was Black Diamond's Momentum Harness Moonstone 2XL =)
I'm enjoying your master class series, thank you. Do you know when the 2nd version of Ep6 is going to come out?
What happened to the first version?
@@schmushenmush he removed to put up a better version
Great explanation usefull for beginners and experienced climbers!
Wow! I just discovered some of your videos earlier this week. REI is having a sale and I'm looking at the harnesses, and saw this video. Then discovered you literally just released it. Crazy!
join an indoor rock climbing gym with auto belays and go climb often
Mind reading you ;)
Another fact about durability is that some brands put a warning color in the inside of your belay loop and/ or tying loops. When you see that color, often red or orange, you know its time to change your gear
"what you choose will probably be fine"
aight gonna go buy a participant harness /s
great video, im going to take the time to adjust my elastics now
I wish I saw this video when I was looking for a new harness. Interesting that I ended up choosing between Mammut and BD featured in this video.
Un saludo desde Colombia, como siempre te seguimos y nos parece que los vídeos son muy buenos y instructivos, 👍👍👍👍👍
Will you upload more videos to this series? I feel like there is a lot more we can learn from you
I have a same question. This masterclass had a fantastic start... :/
They're haul loops made for hauling as you said. Like rope, rucksack. The Black Diamond doesn't have one. The 0 Newton applies to the hook meant for the elasticated adjustment straps.
your vids are sooo helpful, thank youuuuuu
Tremendous fan of the Mammut Sender in the emergency orange, only major qualm is the elastic tensioner for the leg loops adjusts too easily due to the quick adjust slide. Had to trim this all off and sew the elastic to itself to maintain the desired tension.
Also, wish there was a version with strictly the nylon gear loops instead of the larger coated ones. The nylon loops are much lower profile, which when I am projecting I would far rather.
Thanks a lot, I'm going to the Spirit Well Cave in a few days, these video are very useful and right to my point
Thank you so much! Have a nice trip!
So much to this I learned all my climbing in the military and we tended to use the stabo rig out web gear was attached to same as the guys in Vietnam who developed it edit I should say we learned the swiss seat as well
Thank you for making this series, I always find your videos interesting and helpful. On the subject of this video I was wondering if an additional chest harness is something that is commonly used or if it's used only in some particular cases, does it provide extra safety?
Thank You! Chest harnesses are almost never used in Sport Climbing.
If you can't make your harness stay above your hip bones to not slip down - then chest harness could help... You might find this set up for little kids.
Chest harnesses are used in a few cases. For example in alpine climbing, if the climbers need to take a heavy backpack. In this case their center of gravity moves up so that with the sport climbing harness alone they tend to flick back. A chest harness prevents this. Another case is for very young children, like below 7 years.
Pregnancy
Thank you guys for all the responses, love the community :)
When carrying a backpack your center of mass is shifted to almost above the belly button. You inevitably tip backwards when sitting in your harness and falling with such a heavy mass you hurt your back pretty badly. A chest harness solves these problems.
Basically they are safer when carrying a backpack and overall more conveniet
Great video. You explain things so clearly! I've just become a Patron :)
Wooohooo thank you SO MUCH!
One of the best tutorials 👌
Love your videos, really well explained with practical application scenarios and especially stuff a normal climber was always wondering about: what🤨, how😱 and why🤔.
I bought my first harness a few weeks ago but I've been in lock down ever since so haven't climbed on it yet. I was wondering what the tiny loop on the back was for! So far I just use it to hang up my harness
0KN haul loop are used because (I was told) if your haul bag at the anchor were to fall while attached to you, the loop will break and there is less chance of you pulling your gear out and fall to your death.
Thank you very much for your videos. Can you please explain a little more about the Mammut Indicator technology? I actually bought a set of Mammut Indicator Quickdraws when I was climbing in Andalusia and realised I didn't have enough Quickdraws, but now I can't find any more information about the technology.
And just a small detail, you mainly talked about "ultralight" harnesses for sport climbing. It's a bit pity that you didn't cover other types of harnesses, such as those for climbing, full body, ski alpinism or big wall. It would be interesting for me, and I hope for the others too, but I understand that the video can take hours.
Thank you for this video. Learned a lot.
Nice info, thanks for making this series
Great information as always. Keep up the great content!
commenting for the algorithm! super awesome video series
I knew about the elastic straps being adjustable, but is that really why they are detachable?
Useful - although I was expecting to see your opinions on single tie-in point harnesses (eg Petzl Pandion, DMM Centre, etc). Have you covered that in any videos?
I love the way you explain things not just saying what you are suposed to do acording to theory but allso explaning what happends when you do things in uncorrect ways.
I don´t know if you´ll ever see this coment but I have a question. What´s the problem with you tying yourself to the harnes with a carabiner if you do it in the belay loop (so it won´t load in a triaxial way) and you do it with a belay carabiner which would avoid cross load. I´ve seen you tie yourself with 2 carabiners with the gates facing away of each other and I understand it would be something similar. It would not be to use it in sport climbing, but in small first or second grade step ups allong a mountaineering route for an extra safety but trying to save time as it would be a repeated process. I apologize for the huge text but it´s something I have not found discused in youtube.
Thanks for the video and thanks marmot for sponsoring the content.
Very good video!
Greetings from Chile🇨🇱
Great video! Thank you so much!
Great video thanks for the amazing content! Looking forward to the episode about cleaning a sports route :)
Thanks for the info, really informative and helpful.
Just wanted to point out the quick release of the elastic strap is not just for women but for men too. It's used for #2 on big wall multi-day climbs.
Hmmmm, will go to check all loops on my harness.
very informative and well explained! Thank you!
I bought the Petzl Adjama for the gym, serves me just fine, but i wouldn't say its an outdoor harness like Petzl does.
Hie there, I noticed that this video is not in your belay master class playlist as well,
Can you please add it in as well?
Thank you and love all your videos and appreciate your detailed introduction and explanations
Love all your videos, thanks.
On my harness the load-bearing straps wore down quickest. Around the buckles they got really furry which made me retire the harness. Also the leg loops suffered from a lot of abrasion because of walking around in the harness.
I think another different is the certification. The Black Diamond ones are not UIAA or EN certified
Great video, Thank You !
Very interesting video. Thank you.
Great explanation. Thanks!
Hi Ben, I love your video's! Are you also planning to do one on foot faults?
You are a good dude ma dude
Good stuff. Another well done video.
Any chance you could do a video on suspension trauma, I had someone with considerable experience tell me that sitting for more than 7 minutes in a harness is bad for you. What are the best ways to avoid trauma if you are in a situation where you have to stay suspended for an extended period of time?
Thank you for the videos of the series so far!
My harness is already pretty dirty just from using it the last couple of months outside. Do you know if it's possible to wash the harness?
You should check out your manufacturer recommendations on it to be safe. However, mine says that it is safe to wash with gentle soap. I use Dr. Bronner's pure castille soap personally. Just a plain soap with no additives. I hand wash in a clean Rubbermaid container that I know hasn't had any cleaning chemicals in it. I don't do it in the sink because there could be residual cleaning chemicals in it from the last time I cleaned it. Then I rinse it really well and let it air dry on a drying rack (not hanging). It worked really well! Looked like new. But again, I would refer to your harness manufacturer recs. You can just Google for it easily.
@@coffee-fueledcritic5498 Jeez, I just hang mine up and hose it off.
Great video, it is realy intresting fore me to see these sport climbing harneses vs the tree climbing harneses wich i use as an arborist like how minimalistic these harneses ar
Not really a climber but worked at a rock wall belaying people almost 2 decades ago. I do however use my climbing gear for going up mast of sailboats.. the methods that are common in the sailing world are not as safe as my climbing gear I feel.
please make also videos about alpine climbing !
Thanks for the video,
It would have been interesting tough to talk about harness without belay loop. Is it safe to use ? In which case ?
You just clip and tie everything through both loops
.... any information on the ice clipper location for the Mammut Sender?
Excellent video! :) Great job!
Thank you, very helpful.
in addtion to the lanyard ( I got Petzl Scorpio Vertigo Lanyard)
what type of harness did you use,
I'm looking at some ultralightweight type like "Petzl TOUR Harness - Lightweight Harness for Glacier Travel and Ski Touring" Would it be sufficient for via Ferrata, or do I need a full climbing harness.
I'm planning on using it for Alta Via 2 route,
its not technically sports climbing?.
It’s a good and well explained video about harness. However, I am a little bit sad to not have seen any full body harness presented. I feel like there are so little reliable information about these. But I think they still deserve to be talked about since they are also used by climberd for many reasons.
Yes. I understand that the main focus is on sport climbing, but I feel that your videos would be also useful for other applications, for alpine climbers, industrial rope access climbers, firefighters, and so on. The basics are the same, but I would gladly watch a separate series for any other style of climbing
@@ffoska I mean, that requires the person to know about those things. I don't think he should be talking about those if he doesn't have experience with them. This is a sport climbing channel after all. Also, algorithm. Creators need to create things that stay "on brand" for their youtube channels otherwise the algorithm stops suggesting their channel to their audience. Many channels die while trying to "diversify".
@@wlthr yeah you might be right. But still the quality of this content is very good, and it might be his expirience, but also the presentation. Maybe get the experts on his show? And yeah chances are, there are chanels dedicated to other areas
I'd argue that there is almost no amateur use for a full body harness, and therefore there is no space for a "masterclass" for professionnals on youtube.
If you are talking about shoulder straps for caving for example then yes it would have been interesting to talk about those things !
Cheers
Thank you, and yes these videos are mostly targeted for Sport Climbers. Covering all types of climbing, especially professional work industry, would make videos insanely long / broad and very hard to produce requiring to understand all different areas and safety requirements.
In what way is a rock climbing harness better than a construction/tree harness? The only things I see different is that the belay loop that connects the waist loop to the leg loops while the fall protection harness have a metal ring on the waist loop only.
I’m going soon to get another harness. My current one is rough to say the least 😂
Again, another excelent video
Thank you verte much for your work
You are an awesome human being
beautiful harness ,,what's the name of the mammut harness in this video?
Thank you for this great video!
What about EP.6? I can't find it on your channel.
He removed the Mk1 version to put an improved Mk2 version up 🙂
quick question, quite often you (and other climbers) will say the word "retire" when it come to gear that you shouldn't use anymore. But i always wondered what then? Do you just bin it? are there recycling plants you can give them to? Just recently I had to cut my rope because of damage and the guy at the gym said I could still use the slightly damaged rope for static protection, and could cut it up and turn it into other useful gear (i.e. slings). Would you consider doing a video about what to do with retired gear (if there's much else you can do besides bin it)? Thanks!
I use my old harness for training at gym, instead of the classic gym belts to load more weight in some exercises (ie pull ups).
Carabiniers became very useful for everyday life: key rings, replacement parts for dog's collar ecc. Ropes became standard ropes. You can use all of your fantasy, but don't use for climb anymore.
I do not remember you speaking about it in the Sling episode.
-The belay loop is often used to put slings or lanyard. Is this an OK behavior or should it be avoided? I do not feel confortable to thread my stuff through the small space around the belay loop to get the two "tie in loops".
(And I do know that if you put them on belay loop, they should be removed to avoid wear)
-second question: during an abseil, should you put both belay device & third hand on the belay loop? is it considered as redundant?
Thanks for the quality of you videos, much appreciated ! :-)
My opinion here:
1- if you put your lanyard/sling on the belay loop, when anchored it would be same as having the rope tied to the belay loop, it probably won't kill you, but it might get uncomfortable or harder to position yourself, one can argue on redundancy of having the sling on two loops, and I personally found way easier to manage the gear on different places, but it is just how I've learned, metal on the belay loop, softies on the tie in haha
2- I use a multi chain so I can still have redundancy when abseiling, having the device on one loop and the third hand on the harness., I've seen people using the leg loop to attach the third hand, but it looks very sketchy, wouldn't recommend, and honestly the third hand is supposed to backup your hands as the name suggest, and not the device so I personally don't have problems on not having redundancy between those two, if that's the case. But again it's only how I learned. What's your personal on those questions you've asked?
#1 I talked about that in Sling episode towards the end...
#2 Not sure if I understand your question, but you might want to look up for extended rappel - maybe that answers your question.
@@HardIsEasy @Hard Is Easy 2- I do extend my ATC with a sling which is attached to my belay loop. And I put my prusik below it but also clipped to my belay loop.
Thus I'm wondering if it is considered not safe or "it's super good enough" like and other TH-camr would say.
Or maybe as Heitor mentioned, it's my ATC that should be extended but attached to the tie in.
@@HeitorxD1 thanks for your answer ! I'm too new to have a lot of stuff going on my harness I guess. Because since I have only the rope attached on the tie in, it feels natural to put the lanyard on the belay loop when leading. So I do have 1 or 2 of them on it. (For sure always loaded and not above the anchor point)
Hi there! On a new harness I have wrapped paracord lines around belaying loop and the tie-in points, in order to prevent chaffing. I'm going to use this harness only on Via Ferrata. Bad/ good ideea?