Get the 6ch Radio Transmitter & Receiver We Now Use Here - www.banggood.com/custlink/mD33VJz8zU It's got a built in Gyro, ABS Braking, and a 500M Range For Under $30!
GR8 video Mate, very useful information. Always easier to watch someone do it first then use the manual as a reference . Much appreciated that you took the time to film , edit and post this for others . It still looks like a pain in the you know what though, lol
Thanks I hope it's of help. When I find a job 'tricky' I like to try and film it so as to save others time! This one takes a while even with practice though! I've just got the Outcast as well so more fast videos coming up! Weapon of choice this week is my friends Traxxas Summit, slow compared to Arrma but one of the best rock crawlers going even though they don't market it as one. Only 14mph top speed on the GPS though!
Great video and very helpful. Note, to make motor/gear unit removal easier, remove the rear pair of plastic bottom plates. The most rearward is removed first, then you slide the next one horizontally (forward) toward the motor to remove it (note that there are 2 screws per side in addition to the main bottom-side screw). Also, this second plastic plate is mounted on a pair of horizontal pins and it's a press fit so it can be tight .... you can use a wide-blade flathead screwdriver to coax it off toward the front of the rig. This step is missing in the Nero manual. Thank you again!
Klem Keely ALL COMMENTS LIKE THIS APPRECIATED! really appreciate you taking the time to respond. Every bit helps other. Huge gaps in manual which I did my best to fill in. Thanks again. Outcast Spur gear arrives today so think I'll fit that this afternoon. then I make idiot mistake and hit the curb with Typhon at 73mph. Just typing parts list up now....
Thanks I managed on my own. I loosened the chassis of the spool and moved the entire 2-millimeter axis and strengthened it. It is unnecessary to touch the screws of the engine seat. It is superfluous. You can change the pinion and only move the spool until it is adjusted
+benny briga my walk through was as per the manual people have found ways to do the thing without removing it all. Glad you got it sorted. There are two clamp screws which I was in aware of in the first place. I only discovered this when trying to refit stock pinion and the rotation locked them solid lots of heat needed to loosen them . I love it but it's by far from easy to work with n. My pjs does like them for this reason also I'd turn up the braking setting as on the second pinion at 60lus it takes a long while to stop. Anymore questions please ask away . I'd recommend hot racing driveshafts which never drop out....
Many thanks Steve. Compliment much appreciated. It came out better than I hoped. Hopefully it should be of use to people. I tried to zoom in enough so people could see each bit clearly. Took a while to shoot so it had a good 'flow' to it. Just been out with the GPS to speed test it. I'm posting it tomorrow as it's left me stunned!
Woah!! Looking forwards to seeing how fast that goes! Do let me know how quick it goes. One thing I would say is that I found the car went much faster/better acceleration after doing a 30 min bashing session with the car to loosen the gear up. However with 21T you may need to watch the temp (Although 17T has run fine even in 90 deg heat here). Also on my first speed run it didn't go as quick as I thought it was like it hit a plateau. I then set the throttle and brake end points as per the manual. It then had much more top end than before. If you could try doing this I'd appreciate it to see if it's all Neros. Hope that makes sense. It's on the left hand page opposite the ESC settings.
Ugly Musa Hi I would not advise running it off road with 17T on. I was worried about the temps building up off road so I swapped the 17T out for the smaller pinion once I'd done my GPS speed run (See it in my videos 17T). More than ample speed as it is! I took the view did I need the extra speed vs cost/risk of frying motor and/or esc. Hope that makes sense and helps out. I notice arrma sell a 25T optional pinion for it! That said my front tires blew out the next run after my 67mph pass indicating that whilst the car can go quicker those tires can't - 50+ mph blow out would cost $100's in damage. I have new geearing for my Typhon I picked up just npw. Est 90mph speed run coming up on that one! Any more questions on the car just ask away. New Outcast on its way early next week
Wish I watched this before I took the center out. Funny I didn’t see the second set screw in the pinion at first. Stripped the head on the 2.5 on the servo side. Ugh.
please do another video of pinion change..just fast forward straight to gear alignment.aka mesh...I'm not grasping this..do I even remove 2 screws in motor to rotate.?..
Now you do need to loosen the clamps the first time I just rotated it by hand (When filming this) then when I changed it back I needed to loosen the clamps. DO NOT use threadlock on them when re-doing them. You may need to use heat to loosen them. Apologies this issue only came about at a later pinion change. First time in this video it wasn't an issue.
I would agree entirely that the stock one comes with fitted out of the factory is the best one for day to day use but it also comes with one optional pinion (17T), which gives it uses to hit 60mph+ top speeds. I changed the pinion to this one to test it out. I'd read the manual and realised this was no easy job to do, so chose to video it step by step to help others out if they wanted to also try out the 2nd pinion the car comes with or fit another even bigger one! That said whilst the 17T gives monster speed it's not as user friendly to drive as the stock one is, which I put back on after the high speed test runs (Check those (x2) out on my channel). Hope that all makes sense?
that i'm not sure on. It's too similar to my Nero to warrant me buying one. I will ask a man I know that has both the Nero and the Big Rock to find out. Shouldn't take too long
I've asked the question of the man that knows these things and he says - None of the nero series have any so called HD driveshafts. Big rock have HD cvd joints all over., HD shock ball enda and correct shock shafts. About the diffs, there is no need of upgrading. He has both so I'd take his word for it. So sounds like Big Rock is toughened up!
Hey I worked on it for 3 hours and still could not find a match. The spool is too close to the pinyon and makes it difficult to roll . It does not look right. I brought back the 15T . But I need help
ah! You need to also loosen one clamp like screw on the motor mount and the other clamp like screw on the other end of the gearbox (mount). Hope that helps sorry it wasn't clearer. P.S. Do not use threadlock on those two clamp screws. 6 hours to undo one this week...
Something is amiss as it should fit without being tight, hopefully this will help, there are two screws that act as clamps on the motor mount and the diff mount. They quite literally 'clamp' each assembly tight. They can be a devil to get undo but I've since found these need to be loosened so you can turn the spur gear assembly away from the pinion. They then need to be re-clamped tight when done. WARNING! They can be near impossible to loosen if they been thread locked at the factory.Heat will need to be applied to them to loosen them. Once they are free you will be able to rotate the spur/pinion assembly to fit the 17T pinion with ease. That said once I did my GPS speed test I took the 17T back out as the car is nicer to drive with the smaller pinion on. I only found this to be a problem the second time around. The first time when I shot this the clamps were loose enough to rotate the assembly. So I then put threadlock on. Then I couldn't loosen them. Being 'clamp' screws the tension on them will hold them in place. Hope that helps. Please ask away if you need more help.
check out the 'arrmaspeed club' page on Facebook. I't's my go to place for such questions and LOADS of good mod tips. Top TYphon on there has done 150+!!!
Glad to be of help. The official instructions made it somewhat 'interesting'. Hopefully this guides people through it easily. Just tested it today and all four wheels are still on! I ran it yesterday and it was a little tight, so gave it a good 30 mins bashing earlier today before putting the GPS back on tonight. It's freed up nicely as tomorrows GPS test should show!
every hex head screw I tried to remove was rounded.i had the best allen key tools as well , like he says be very careful not to round the hex head screws .im sorry arrma I would like to know how many gallons of locktite you put in the threads so they wouldn't come loose???.and half the hex head screws were only tightened half way .and my car was brand new ..Quality control Arrma needs attention???..I also did what this procedure had told me to do by moving one bolt hole around by putting the 17 tooth pinion on set it all up .did one run stripped the spur gears and the pinion ….Seriously …...
Indeed (Glad you realise it's not my fault) but sadly this is the level of effort required to do it. Of note is that I've put the stock pinion back on as it's more fun to drive with it than the larger one. I'd save your time and not change it. It's hard going
You don't have to remove the whole center section to change the pinion. I got a 20t on mine without removing it. Only if you're swapping the motor do you need to pull the center diff/trans/motor module out.
Driftomaniacs Hi mate, I have the hot racing metal gearbox casing on one, and it comes with plastic rings where it mounts as apposed to the red aluminium ones you have fitted. When I tighten the two holding screws down the gearbox still moves away from the pinion gear? Is it the rings? Cheers
hi pal moving the motor round to different holes changes nothing !!! great video is a real big shame it's all wrong you need to do another video loosen the two clamps
Please accept my Apologies the two clamps issue only came to light later, first time I did it the clamp loosening was not an issue they turned with ease e.g. didn't need loosening or tightenting the assembly simply twisted. Only after a couple of changes did they become tight.. I've tried to comment on this in the video. I've left it up as the rest e.g. what to undo and how to undo it is right and the change to the other holes is needed. Mistakes happen to the best of us, and when this was filmed the clamping issue was not apparent. Indeed arrma manual is totally ambiguous on this issue. I film this stuff to help and not mislead hope that can be appreciated. It's stilll a pig of a job to do compared to the outcast! All feedback is appreciated. I wish I could edit this to make the issue clearer but you can't edit the videos once posted
There's absolutely no need to take the screws from the motor and mount. To adjust gear mesh loosen the one clamp screw and spin the center diff housing. What a pain to change a pinion gear.
Can you show us your own video as I'm not sure what you mean? Not quite sure about what you mean as that's different from the arrma manual, your video would help me understand. No way would larger pinion fit without undoing those screws when we did it. No problem just not quite sure how you are doing it different to what the manual says. All help appreciated
DONT LEAVE IT UP PEOPLE WILL FOLLOW IT THEN FIND OUT THE MOTOR BEARING HAVE FAILED could you not ear the very very tight meshing of the gears on yours !!!
As I say the first time I fitted it the clamped parts just twisted around so there was no excess pressure. All Arrmas make harsh gear noise when at low speed. I've got 4 and everyone sounds loud from new. Indeed it worried me when I first bought typhon and so I googled it, first thing I came across was a video saying dont worry about the noise. Motor has been 100% fine as I say the whole assembly bits that clamp twisted around so no excess pressure. Only second/third time of fitting was the clamps an issue
Your wrong I have just changed my pinion from 15 to 17 if I'd tried to do it the way you say the pressure between the two gears is massive Gears should mesh nice and smooth not click round like yours do in the video
Yes, all you did was essentially rotate the motor a little, so this has to be the biggest pinion you can fit on the nero chassis since the motor doesn't allow you to really adjust it.
Get the 6ch Radio Transmitter & Receiver We Now Use Here - www.banggood.com/custlink/mD33VJz8zU It's got a built in Gyro, ABS Braking, and a 500M Range For Under $30!
GR8 video Mate, very useful information. Always easier to watch someone do it first then use the manual as a reference . Much appreciated that you took the time to film , edit and post this for others . It still looks like a pain in the you know what though, lol
Thanks I hope it's of help. When I find a job 'tricky' I like to try and film it so as to save others time! This one takes a while even with practice though! I've just got the Outcast as well so more fast videos coming up! Weapon of choice this week is my friends Traxxas Summit, slow compared to Arrma but one of the best rock crawlers going even though they don't market it as one. Only 14mph top speed on the GPS though!
Great video and very helpful. Note, to make motor/gear unit removal easier, remove the rear pair of plastic bottom plates. The most rearward is removed first, then you slide the next one horizontally (forward) toward the motor to remove it (note that there are 2 screws per side in addition to the main bottom-side screw). Also, this second plastic plate is mounted on a pair of horizontal pins and it's a press fit so it can be tight .... you can use a wide-blade flathead screwdriver to coax it off toward the front of the rig. This step is missing in the Nero manual. Thank you again!
Klem Keely ALL COMMENTS LIKE THIS APPRECIATED! really appreciate you taking the time to respond. Every bit helps other. Huge gaps in manual which I did my best to fill in. Thanks again. Outcast Spur gear arrives today so think I'll fit that this afternoon. then I make idiot mistake and hit the curb with Typhon at 73mph. Just typing parts list up now....
Thanks I managed on my own. I loosened the chassis of the spool and moved the entire 2-millimeter axis and strengthened it. It is unnecessary to touch the screws of the engine seat. It is superfluous. You can change the pinion and only move the spool until it is adjusted
+benny briga my walk through was as per the manual people have found ways to do the thing without removing it all. Glad you got it sorted. There are two clamp screws which I was in aware of in the first place. I only discovered this when trying to refit stock pinion and the rotation locked them solid lots of heat needed to loosen them . I love it but it's by far from easy to work with n. My pjs does like them for this reason also I'd turn up the braking setting as on the second pinion at 60lus it takes a long while to stop. Anymore questions please ask away . I'd recommend hot racing driveshafts which never drop out....
Interesting subject & well filmed. Kudos 😊
Many thanks Steve. Compliment much appreciated. It came out better than I hoped. Hopefully it should be of use to people. I tried to zoom in enough so people could see each bit clearly. Took a while to shoot so it had a good 'flow' to it. Just been out with the GPS to speed test it. I'm posting it tomorrow as it's left me stunned!
Well done, ill be installing my 21t pinion tonight.
Woah!! Looking forwards to seeing how fast that goes! Do let me know how quick it goes. One thing I would say is that I found the car went much faster/better acceleration after doing a 30 min bashing session with the car to loosen the gear up. However with 21T you may need to watch the temp (Although 17T has run fine even in 90 deg heat here). Also on my first speed run it didn't go as quick as I thought it was like it hit a plateau. I then set the throttle and brake end points as per the manual. It then had much more top end than before. If you could try doing this I'd appreciate it to see if it's all Neros. Hope that makes sense. It's on the left hand page opposite the ESC settings.
Driftomaniacs have u ran off-road with the 17T? And if so how was the temps?
Ugly Musa Hi I would not advise running it off road with 17T on. I was worried about the temps building up off road so I swapped the 17T out for the smaller pinion once I'd done my GPS speed run (See it in my videos 17T). More than ample speed as it is! I took the view did I need the extra speed vs cost/risk of frying motor and/or esc. Hope that makes sense and helps out. I notice arrma sell a 25T optional pinion for it! That said my front tires blew out the next run after my 67mph pass indicating that whilst the car can go quicker those tires can't - 50+ mph blow out would cost $100's in damage. I have new geearing for my Typhon I picked up just npw. Est 90mph speed run coming up on that one! Any more questions on the car just ask away. New Outcast on its way early next week
Wish I watched this before I took the center out. Funny I didn’t see the second set screw in the pinion at first. Stripped the head on the 2.5 on the servo side. Ugh.
please do another video of pinion change..just fast forward straight to gear alignment.aka mesh...I'm not grasping this..do I even remove 2 screws in motor to rotate.?..
Yes you will need to loosen the 2 motor screws to align it.
so is there a need of removing motor from plate.or just turn motor at clamps ???
Now you do need to loosen the clamps the first time I just rotated it by hand (When filming this) then when I changed it back I needed to loosen the clamps. DO NOT use threadlock on them when re-doing them. You may need to use heat to loosen them. Apologies this issue only came about at a later pinion change. First time in this video it wasn't an issue.
Im working on 1 of these rt now&i am starting 2 hate this design ,it takes alot of time to fix almost anything on these arrmas
stock gear set up works very well, curious why YOU changed it? different tires?
I would agree entirely that the stock one comes with fitted out of the factory is the best one for day to day use but it also comes with one optional pinion (17T), which gives it uses to hit 60mph+ top speeds. I changed the pinion to this one to test it out. I'd read the manual and realised this was no easy job to do, so chose to video it step by step to help others out if they wanted to also try out the 2nd pinion the car comes with or fit another even bigger one! That said whilst the 17T gives monster speed it's not as user friendly to drive as the stock one is, which I put back on after the high speed test runs (Check those (x2) out on my channel). Hope that all makes sense?
+Driftomaniacs I understand! maybe you know? does the new Nero big rock come with the upgraded drive shafts and hd differential gears?
that i'm not sure on. It's too similar to my Nero to warrant me buying one. I will ask a man I know that has both the Nero and the Big Rock to find out. Shouldn't take too long
I've asked the question of the man that knows these things and he says - None of the nero series have any so called HD driveshafts. Big rock have HD cvd joints all over., HD shock ball enda and correct shock shafts. About the diffs, there is no need of upgrading. He has both so I'd take his word for it. So sounds like Big Rock is toughened up!
+Driftomaniacs thank you.
Hey
I worked on it for 3 hours and still could not find a match. The spool is too close to the pinyon and makes it difficult to roll . It does not look right. I brought back the 15T . But I need help
You need to loosen the 2 clamp screws as well by the sounds of it.
did you use any blue threadlock to attach the motor shaft and pinion gear together?
I used threadlock on the pinion screw. Sorry if I'd not made that clear, I thought I'd mentioned it.
thats cool thankz for the tips!
I put mine 17 tooth in the exact same holes as ham and my gear mash is way too tight. I can't figure it out it's driving me nuts
ah! You need to also loosen one clamp like screw on the motor mount and the other clamp like screw on the other end of the gearbox (mount). Hope that helps sorry it wasn't clearer. P.S. Do not use threadlock on those two clamp screws. 6 hours to undo one this week...
yes I've tried all thoes holes they don't seem to make the gear mesh any looser with the 17 still way to tight
Something is amiss as it should fit without being tight, hopefully this will help, there are two screws that act as clamps on the motor mount and the diff mount. They quite literally 'clamp' each assembly tight. They can be a devil to get undo but I've since found these need to be loosened so you can turn the spur gear assembly away from the pinion. They then need to be re-clamped tight when done. WARNING! They can be near impossible to loosen if they been thread locked at the factory.Heat will need to be applied to them to loosen them. Once they are free you will be able to rotate the spur/pinion assembly to fit the 17T pinion with ease. That said once I did my GPS speed test I took the 17T back out as the car is nicer to drive with the smaller pinion on. I only found this to be a problem the second time around. The first time when I shot this the clamps were loose enough to rotate the assembly. So I then put threadlock on. Then I couldn't loosen them. Being 'clamp' screws the tension on them will hold them in place. Hope that helps. Please ask away if you need more help.
Can I run a 18t Pinon, and if I do, the motor mount has to go up 2 spots on the motor bracket.
check out the 'arrmaspeed club' page on Facebook. I't's my go to place for such questions and LOADS of good mod tips. Top TYphon on there has done 150+!!!
Thanks bro
And by the way it takes much less time. The second time I changed the Pinion it took about 20 minutes to decompose and assemble
Good info
Glad to be of help. The official instructions made it somewhat 'interesting'. Hopefully this guides people through it easily. Just tested it today and all four wheels are still on! I ran it yesterday and it was a little tight, so gave it a good 30 mins bashing earlier today before putting the GPS back on tonight. It's freed up nicely as tomorrows GPS test should show!
+Driftomaniacs can't wait to see it👍
every hex head screw I tried to remove was rounded.i had the best allen key tools as well , like he says be very careful not to round the hex head screws .im sorry arrma I would like to know how many gallons of locktite you put in the threads so they wouldn't come loose???.and half the hex head screws were only tightened half way .and my car was brand new ..Quality control Arrma needs attention???..I also did what this procedure had told me to do by moving one bolt hole around by putting the 17 tooth pinion on set it all up .did one run stripped the spur gears and the pinion ….Seriously …...
I unplugged all cables like an idiot, now I don’t know which one goes in which slot? Where do you find that info?
Doh! Don't worry we've all been there. Here's a link to the Nero's online manual, which should show the RX lead positions
Driftomaniacs I don’t see a link?
What color locktite?
Red! And hard as hell even with heat applied. Seems it's like that on all Neros!
all this for the pinion??? I'm discouraged to change it now
not ur fault , there has to be easier way
Indeed (Glad you realise it's not my fault) but sadly this is the level of effort required to do it. Of note is that I've put the stock pinion back on as it's more fun to drive with it than the larger one. I'd save your time and not change it. It's hard going
haha 2 more Teeth is not worth when are 15 more Teeth is worth to work 50 minutes on the Rc-Car haha... yeah Great car
You don't have to remove the whole center section to change the pinion. I got a 20t on mine without removing it. Only if you're swapping the motor do you need to pull the center diff/trans/motor module out.
Driftomaniacs Hi mate, I have the hot racing metal gearbox casing on one, and it comes with plastic rings where it mounts as apposed to the red aluminium ones you have fitted. When I tighten the two holding screws down the gearbox still moves away from the pinion gear? Is it the rings? Cheers
спасибо друг попогло мне твоё видео
hi pal
moving the motor round to different holes changes nothing !!!
great video is a real big shame it's all wrong
you need to do another video
loosen the two clamps
Please accept my Apologies the two clamps issue only came to light later, first time I did it the clamp loosening was not an issue they turned with ease e.g. didn't need loosening or tightenting the assembly simply twisted. Only after a couple of changes did they become tight.. I've tried to comment on this in the video. I've left it up as the rest e.g. what to undo and how to undo it is right and the change to the other holes is needed. Mistakes happen to the best of us, and when this was filmed the clamping issue was not apparent. Indeed arrma manual is totally ambiguous on this issue. I film this stuff to help and not mislead hope that can be appreciated. It's stilll a pig of a job to do compared to the outcast! All feedback is appreciated. I wish I could edit this to make the issue clearer but you can't edit the videos once posted
There's absolutely no need to take the screws from the motor and mount. To adjust gear mesh loosen the one clamp screw and spin the center diff housing. What a pain to change a pinion gear.
Can you show us your own video as I'm not sure what you mean? Not quite sure about what you mean as that's different from the arrma manual, your video would help me understand. No way would larger pinion fit without undoing those screws when we did it. No problem just not quite sure how you are doing it different to what the manual says. All help appreciated
DONT LEAVE IT UP PEOPLE WILL FOLLOW IT THEN
FIND OUT THE MOTOR BEARING HAVE FAILED
could you not ear the very very tight meshing of the gears on yours !!!
As I say the first time I fitted it the clamped parts just twisted around so there was no excess pressure. All Arrmas make harsh gear noise when at low speed. I've got 4 and everyone sounds loud from new. Indeed it worried me when I first bought typhon and so I googled it, first thing I came across was a video saying dont worry about the noise. Motor has been 100% fine as I say the whole assembly bits that clamp twisted around so no excess pressure. Only second/third time of fitting was the clamps an issue
Your wrong
I have just changed my pinion from 15 to 17 if I'd tried to do it the way you say the pressure between the two gears is massive
Gears should mesh nice and smooth not click round like yours do in the video
Mine is like his and they're nice and smooth, mine clicked less than his in the same exact position, kind of weird.
Yes, all you did was essentially rotate the motor a little, so this has to be the biggest pinion you can fit on the nero chassis since the motor doesn't allow you to really adjust it.
Nice rc but is a complete pain in the arse.
indeed that's why I sold it in the end.
Driftomaniacs lol don't blame you.Im stripped a couple of screws and now I can't get my steering servo out
Ive