Gun Lubricant Corrosion Test Part 3 of 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- Final results are in for those of you out there interested in keeping your firearms protected from corrosion! Please like and subscribe as I will be focusing again on this channel and putting up new videos that I think you guys will enjoy. Products used: Corrosion X, Frog Lube, Break Free CLP, Slip2000, M-Pro 7, Tetra Gun, Pro-Shot Zero Friction, Rem Oil, Outers Metal Seal.
EWL is not the lubricant we promote for corrosion prevention. You should have used Gun Lube or EWL30. Please test these again, or test the 3 Slip 2000 lubricants to show you viewers the differences of our lubricants. EWL was designed for active shooting with high round counts.
Is there anyway you can send me some samples of your product please, I'm looking for a different type. I'm currently using all lucas and their grease seems to be drying out in certain areas, thank you
Still won't beat Corrosion X which was designed for aviation not firearms, used your Slip2000 products in the past and like most gun lubricant products it works as good as than others. If your going to do this to a firearm ? You have no business owning one !
@@leoguy1609 How's the corrosionx been working for you? Is it a good replacement for cleaning and lubricating?
Nice work, thanks. I've been using CorrosionX for about 2 years and am happy to see that in your test, it came up #1. I also store extra barrels, triggers, parts, etc soaked in CorrosionX. Also, it smells so good I want to ware it as an after-shave LOL.
Glad I have been using CorrosionX it penetrates well too.
I've been using it on all my guns and everything I clean them from a day at the range I see the rust from a used gun I bought slowly going away.
Watched this video about 3 years ago and after I bought the corison X for my guns and it worked so good I use it different parts of my dirtbikes and streetbikes and also on alot of my tools. I gotta say I'm loving this stuff.
Does it do a good job at cleaning? What about lubrication?
@@TerminalM193 I use Corrosion X on all my guns for rust prevention. But my bikes and my guns get hilco lub win cleaned Corrosion X I use on my barrel, guid rod/ recoil sprng, slides, BCG's , trigger springs and on all the spring and detents on my ARs after they have been cleaned. But really the hilco lub is a great rust prevention due to it doesn't dry out quick but I like my C/X. I clean several firearms every month and I have 2 streetbikes and 2 dirtybikes that get chain cleanings pretty often. Hilco Lub is my work horse, if you can find it it's worth giving ah try. Also I think both used together is one of the best ways to maintain your firearms. J.M.O
thanks for the time and effort you put into this test.
Been using Corrosion X for a little over a year now. I work/play at Virginia Beach. Your tests are spot on. Rust doesn't stand a chance. If you play in the water with your weapons, it's worth every penny you paid for it. 👍👍
How's it do as far as lubrication and cleaning?
@@TerminalM193 Hey Ryan, it's been my experience that my guns clean up very easily. Although, most of my things are coated in some way other than phosphate NiB, DLC, nitride, etc. As far as being slick, it does a great job and actually sticks to the parts rather than being slung off. Another factor is how often you clean your weapons. My EDC gets a good cleaning every week, and immediately after firing.
@@voodoo1449 So you recommend purchasing the product? I've primarily been using clenzoil mainly for the edc and for the heavier jobs I use a dedicated solvent like breakfree or hoppes & then a dedicated oil lik Lucas extreme duty. If 1 round goes down the barrel of any of my guns it gets a decent cleaning when back at the home. I practice with my edc enough to where it really only gets cleaned after being used unless I go over 3+ weeks without firing it. I like to run things a bit more wet than usual. I constantly make sure that none of the clp is making its way down into the magwell and with clenzoil it's rather thin so I have to be careful in that regard. Have debated for years of trying out grease with edc. Corrosionx seems a bit pricey but if it's worth trying and using then I don't mind. It's weird that it's been around for so many years now and is still unheard of really, atleast to the people I ask if they've ever heard or used it before. I used to he in the aerospace industry and some of the mechanics I worked with used corrosionx for a multitude of things but I think it came in a blue container and was labeled as a "heavy duty".
@@TerminalM193 It's some real good stuff as far as rust, especially in salt water.(I work/play in/around Virginia Beach area)and started using the stuff because it was what my unit armorer told us to and nothing else. Now many years later I still use it because it's so good at preventing rust. Clean up may be problematic depending on your particular metal's coating, rounds fired between cleanings, ect. But for strictly preventing rust in/around salt water (see the theme here) IT CAN NOT BE BEAT.
I use clp as one of my mainline cleaner lubes, have from 1983 when my local gunsmith and the armory of the base I was stationed at both told me about it. Now all the products used will work better if you clean the intire steel plate get rid of mill slag/ scale. After decreasing completely heat the plate to very warm and then treat intire plate as if it really is a fire arm. Then do your test.( ps that dirt you thought was atracted by the clp was scale comming up from the steel plate) . use clp to ( clean and lubricate). Try it on fire arm that's been cleaned and lube by other and it will clean the stuff other missed.
My one criticism is for most of the amateur gun lube testers I see on youtube. It seems as if all of them put the gun lube on quite thick and leave it that way. I have never seen someone I trust clean and lube a gun leaving it that way. It seems that a realistic test would involve wiping all the lube off that clean patches can get off. Also my dad taught me that in some cases leaving a thick coat of an OIL not grease can actually draw moisture and cause more rapid corrosion. I know it sounds counter intuitive but he even did an experiment that demonstrated this to me. True that was over fifty years ago and the lubricants then were not the same as today and he was using auto type lubes not gun lubes. Overall though I enjoyed the series and know it took a lot of work. Really appreciate your efforts. Thank You.
Clifford Daugherty I thought about doing a more real-world based test by wiping most of the protectants off but I felt that it might create some unfair advantages and also i might wipe certain pieces more than others. Additionally, since I was going to be putting the metal through a dense and heavy salt water spray, I wanted more oils on the pieces.
You're quite welcome. Doing this experiment brought me back to the days when I was in elementary school. Couldn't wait to see the final results though after the first initial night after the salt spray, I could kind of tell which direction the individual products were going. Definitely a big fan of Corrosion X and Break Free.
EEZOX is th best rust preventative bar none
Been using Break Free over 30 years and not one time have a gun Rust.Also like Ballistol its really good for making actions slicker and making pumps and Lever Actions work so easy.Just subscribed and a great demonstration!!
All this video did was make me terrified of road salt
WHY ISN'T ROAD SALT ILLEGAL YET?!
WAS ROAD SALT DEVELOPED TO MAKE POOR PEOPLE EVEN POORER?!
No I think it was just designed to make rich people richer
@@dustinpomeroy8817
LOL! Best exchange
After being in the USMC for over 5 years, I can truly say that Breakfree CLP collector long term storage works way better than the regular Breakfree CLP. The Breakfree CLP collector brand last for 5 years and even longer if the gun is being stored the right way... proper gun safe, Dehumidifier, Silicone gun socks, Silicone gun bags sealed air tight.. Then if you want even more protection, get your guns Cerakoted... Breakfree CLP collector brand is by far the best I've used, it's even better then what we used in the USMC which was Radcolube CLP... I only use Breakfree CLP collector long term storage brand just for that reason, long term storage.. I use Regular Breakfree CLP & Lucas CLP together on my guns not in long term storage.. Good video
Thanks for the video! Great information and clarification for the near endless debates regarding cleaners and lubricants. I just started using clp before I watched this, so now I can rest easy when cleaning and storing my guns
I'm familiar with many of your test products
This is a rust test with lubricants. I knew corrosion x would be the winner. If your main concern is rust prevention, there are products pacifically design for that. Lubricants need to be also given friction test. I have used Corrosion X for lubrication and rust prevention in saltwater environment for years. It is also great in preventing corrosion on electrical contacts and switch. I did discover it's Achilles heel . It is somewhat conductive . It will not prevent electrolysis/galvanic type corrosion. As a matter of fact it promotes it between dissimilar metals like copper and steel. Can't have everything but that is what makes it great for electrical contacts. I'm a big fan of Corrsion X . I use it on the job and my guns and fishing gear. It wont gum up and highly heat resistant and last a long time.
I wish you would have included Ballistol in your comparison... otherwise, excellent study!
th-cam.com/video/E3C5q-Tkszs/w-d-xo.html
Ballistol sucks at being a lubricant, it's okay at cleaning though. Use something heavier for lube.
@@MrIdasam that was using Ballistol aerosol which is nothing close to Balllistol it's self.
I cant speak for most of those oils but if you are treating a gun to prevent corrosion or to lubricate it, you should heat the metal until you see the original oil draw out of the metal and then add the oil of your choice. Personally I use m-pro7 as both a protectant and as a lubricant. Heating the metal allows the oil to soak in. I know m-pro7 works really well done this way because when it came time for me to gunkote a few of my firearms that had holster wear on the finish , it took a good while to draw the oil out. I'd have to heat it, degrease it, heat it again, and degrease it. Also if you want to use a spray that draws a good bit of oil out on it's own just use simple green. It will clean the parts and it will also draw oil out.when heating, I use a small butane torch and move it around until I see the oil draw out and cook off some and then I'll degrease it. Then I'll use the simple green and once it's done its job I rinse the parts with hot water and dry them and then use brake cleaner. Once the brake cleaner has evaporated (helps to wipe it down too) the metal is prepped for paint. So the real way to treat steel with most of these products is to heat the metal up some and then oil them so it actually soaks into the metal. Not so hot as to have the oil steam or make smoke when you apply it but warm enough to get it to soak in. I know that was a bit long winded but I'm a gunsmith and wanted people to understand the best way to prevent rust and increase how long a gun will run before re-oiling the gun. As you shoot the gun and it warms up some of that soaked in oil will draw out and help keep the gun lubed also. Automotive oils and lubricants also work well, that are designed to soak into the metal (which is most of them). Once you have oil soaked in then lubricate them as normal on the action parts.
How would Balistoll perform in this test ?
Excellent video!!!! Thank you for the hard work and time in your video.
Keep them coming.
As far as a anti corrosive,SAFARILAND Collector oil is outstanding if you have a few guns that you seldom use and just want to keep them stored and protected.
I would be willing to bet money that Tetra gun oil(NOT their CLP) would've been one of the best performers if they had used that product. They are two totally different products! I've used it for years with only great results. Again, I'm talking about their gun oil, the one that actually conditions the bore, not their CLP. I've talked to Tetra about this and they actually referred to this video. The Tetra product in this video is the solvent based version, plain Tetra gun oil is not reactive and a totally different chemistry. Just figured I'd share some light on this because it was deemed the worst here. Note: I don't work for them, just love their line of products, especially their grease.
I was about to comment the same thing, he used the triple action formula instead of the gun oil.
Thanks for this great test! Couldnt help but notice @ 1:38 the tetra plate was the most rusted. I started reading comments on the gun forums, from people that lubed their gun with Tetra, came back weeks later and found their gun rusted! Not just one person, but dozens reported this, once the one guy mentioned it a dozen more people piped in that it happened to them too.. I quit using Tetra after that, switched to TW25b for short term and Eezox for longer term storage, from everything I've read over the years these two seem to be among the best (for lube and storage, respectively).
Thank you for the interesting vid - i wanted to echo and maybe hi-light some comments that were made regarding lubricant vs. preservative/ corrosion-protection products. Like many people i know, i don't use a "CLP" product because of results like this video. One product like Pro-shot 0 friction might be a lousy anticorrosive but an excellent lubrificant. And Break free, though a pretty good preservative, has pretty lousy wear-prevention/ lubricant properties. I realize that this is outside the scope of this video, but one video i would like to see in the future would be one that focused on lubrication and/or one on the cleaning/ solvent aspect. Awesome vid, and thanks again for the time and effort! peace, -yogi
Compliments to you for doing this BGZ.
Very informative. I would love to see how they compare in lubricating endurance quality.
Can you test the new Hoppe's Black line of products? I'd like to see how the different products stack up to your test. Great videos and keep up the awesome work.
Their only drawback is they are expensive and hard to find in stores. Otherwise, a good product. They have best cleaner on the market.
Very informative video. May not have been as "professional" as most (sound on Part 1 was terrible) but the results were well worth the effort. Did a similar test years ago (1990's) using nails - just for my own of the oils/lubes I used back then. Results were very interesting. Keep up the good work.
One may want to do heat ( oven) / cooldown cycles with water or high humidity. Salt is a good idea but not as realistic. But I sure do appreciate the work. Thanks!
I didn't want to wait too long so I added a higher concentration of salt to not only speed results but show more extreme conditions. Salt also helps replicate sweat from hands.
BlueonGoldZ You have a very good point about the sweat. And just to be clear, I was only giving a 2-cent suggestion, and I really appreciate all the work you did.
jimlap777
Yeah, I know. Hope you can subscribe. I have new videos coming after my hiatus. Thank you for watching.
BlueonGoldZ done.
jimlap777
Thanks. I'm trying to grow my subscribership.
Other people have mentioned baking frog lube into the metal by heating it, I don't think it's necessary but it is kind of a CLP that you need to use solely and not mix it with any solvents or other products. If you use frog lube for a while it will stay in the metal and probably do better than it did here.
Thanks so much for putting this all together! Very helpful!
Very welcome.
I’d be curious to know how my go-to performs... here’s what Hornady has to say:
ONE SHOT® HD-EXTREME
“Formulated for extreme shooting and weather conditions, this all-purpose cleaner/conditioner/dry lube contains 4X Metal Protector™ additive which helps to prevent tarnishing, reduces friction, and helps eliminate function issues in semi-automatics.“
According to the label, it “withstands 400 hours of salt spray exposure.” As far as general cleaning and lubricating, the stuff is amazing. After range time, it takes seconds to wipe out grime as nothing really “sticks” once treated.
Good Thanks
I couldn't find Ballistol
so I bought BREAK FREE
Yeah, BreakFree is better overall. If I had to choose one product for cleaning, lubrication and protection (like if the zombie-alien apocalypse was happening), it would be BreakFree CLP.
EezOx as well as the WD40 Specialist Rust Preventative blend have performed top in other similar experiments.
Thanks for this good info.
I have a lot of breakfree and corrosion x. The corrosion x stuff has always been good at stopping rust.
Great vid man we spend to much money on our fire arms and need to protect or investments
Correct but we also need to be mindful that due to the prestige of firearms, companies out there often sell crap or even good products that are way over-priced. For instance, Lucas has a gun oil that per ounce is far more expensive than their engine assembly lube which is probably the same thing if not better for a much cheaper price. I use that on all my guns as a lube.
Especially now
OK, Thanks for putting this vid together and for your feedback.
phpeters87 No problem. I got the idea from Fred Hart who has a channel called the Gear Obsession Channel on TH-cam. He has something called the, "Plate of Truth" where he tests corrosion resistance. He did try to venture into lubrication as well with something he called the "Slide of Truth" or something like that where he tried to use a metal shuttle going down a metal slide but for some reason it didn't work so he scrapped the idea. Not sure if he retried it.
One thing in m pro 7s defense, it may not be the best for corrosion but as a lubricant it is amazing. It doesnt run out of your firearm, works well in cold and hot humid enviromenst such as florida. I will stick with mpro7 for internals. However! You did convince me to go to clp for an externally applied oil on my firearms for rust prevention as again i am in florida ( lots of sweat and salt air). Nice review by the way! Like m pro 7 for internals but will definately get some clp for an outer oil application and cleaning.
Yeah, I liked the M Pro 7 as well. However, while CLP is awesome for corrosion protection, the CorrosionX is even better.
I'd like to see someone do this with marine finishes for wood, and then hang it outside some place that gets lots of weather and see how the finish holds up.
Could you please test a Russian MIlitary Dry Lubricant? They say it's like super chemicaly neutral and protective
Are you talking about пушечное сало ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9F%D1%83%D1%88%D0%B5%D1%87%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B5_%D1%81%D0%B0%D0%BB%D0%BE?
If you send me some, sure.
@@BlueonGoldZ Please give your address in acontact form at xstrongumbrella.com and I'll send :)
Breakfree is a very good product but smells a little.
Rem oil or G96 are worse than using lard.
Also breakfree works in extreme cold.
As far as your "short term" testing I would like to volunteer this information of real life gun ownership. No rust at all in/on my Winchester Ranger Model 1894 purchased in 1992. It is now 24 years old and I only use Hoppe's No.9 Lubricating oil. No rust at all. I'd go with real life long term results over your couple of months test, any day.
Ok, I see that at the last part of your video you altered your story and said they are all ok and then talked about hunting for a week or being in the rain. If you clean and oil your rifle every night like I would under that kind of environment then Hoppe's No. 9 is still acceptable.
Think what you will but Hoppes No.9 lubricating oil is still not as effective at corrosion protection compared to other oils such as CorrosionX and BreakFree CLP. As a matter'fact, Corrosion X is so good at protecting against corrosion that people can actually dip electronic parts in Corrosion X and put them under water and the electrical parts will not short out. Many people that have RC cars whether gas-powered or electric often coat their electrical parts in Corrosion X because they might go through water or mud and the cars are protected. Hoppes 9 will not do that.
PeterDad60 Not everyone is you and you need to learn how to read between the lines. Some people may lose their weapon and find it later. The point really doesn't matter as it is only an idea I threw out there. The main point is what protects better than others under adverse conditions.
Look up on TH-cam for videos of 'Corrosion X underwater' and you will see what I'm talking about.
this test was nice, but mostly what I got out of it is that I should use the cheapest lubricant I can find for shooting, and for storage I should clean the gun thoroughly and lock it in an airtight case with some silica gel rather than rely on some special protectant.
In the real world, there are lubricants, then there are rust preventers. On the external surfaces I have had outstanding results with Shooter’s Choice Rust Prevent
(Which you didn’t include). It dries to what feels a bit like candle wax and survives a long time even grabbing those surfaces but leaves nothing on your hand.
The internals get lubed.
Fluid Film is the best rust preventive i have used .My milling machine table is prone to condensation and rusting and fluid film is the best i have used but I admit I haven't used everything out there. Lps3 works well also but not quite as good as fluid film. To me anyway. they both leave a waxy coating like shooters choice.We used a product called linebacker at work but it was real thick and was more like cosmoline. Good for long term storage.
Strike Hold??
Would've loved to see that included in the test.
Thanks for doing this test and sharing it with us. God Bless.
I use pro shot have for many years it works extremely well I don't know about leaving my stuff outside I never would it's left in the safe and I love the pro shop product
Nicely done. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Hope your friend has made a complete recovery from his collision.
Thank you for the well-wishes. He has made tremendous progress in his recovery but is still not 100% there. I am continuing to visit and support him.
The way that these products protect metal that’s untreated steel is not truly representative of how they would perform on actual firearms that are blued or treated in some other way to prevent corrision
Good test man, salt water was helpful for people that might live close to the ocean i use frog lube wish it did better but the corrosionx seems like some good stuff! If you ever get a chance to do another you should throw in some milcomm tw25, or some lithium or high temp grease!
Deleted video, accident...hmmm, sounds like a 1970's conspiracy movie. All kidding aside hope y'r friend is better and good video!
All lubricants came from plants. Oil wells simply pump the results of decayed plants and animals from thousands of years ago. Froglube and Militec are just extracting the compounds a little earlier. Some degrade faster than others, but they are all biodegradable.
+Jim Hall No, they aren't all biodegradable and there are synthetic oils which are now available. The main difference is that many of these plant-based lubes do not have any anti-friction additives such as zinc or moly which is the main difference when preventing wear.
+BlueonGoldZ
From Wikipedia on Synthetic oil:"Poly-alpha-olefin (or poly-α-olefin, abbreviated as PAO), is a polymer made by polymerizing an alpha-olefin. it is a specific type of olefin (organic) that is used as a base stock in the production of some synthetic lubricants."
Note the term "Organic". It can be from plants or animals. Of course, the animals eat other animals or they eat animals that eat plants. It still is organic no matter how much they mess with the formula. Oil has been leaking into the ocean for millions of years. It gets broken down eventually so it is biodegradable over time. We just have to be sure they don't make something that lasts so long that it kills all the humans on the planet BEFORE it breaks down.
Jim Hall That is still grossly different from something like Frog Lube which is just plant goo concentrate. The organics you speak of is just a base stock, a vehicle for it to hold other SYNTHETIC materials which act as the anti-wear, anti-corrosion properties. Look-up Weapon Shields video of that product vs Frog Lube on wear tests. As I mentioned, organic products perform poorly.
FrogLube looks worse than M-Pro 7...not sure what your eyes were seeing when filming this, but the visual video evidence suggests otherwise.
This is great test! If you plan on doing an update test to include new lubricants, please include Interflon Fin Super. I have uploaded a video on my channel and it demonstrates the tech behind the lube and a how to. There have also been some recent reviews on Ammoland, the view from north central idaho (he did some interesting tests where he froze the gun after lubricating to see how effective it was) and Lew Rockwell.
after 5 min mark they pretty much all look rusted. Since the test is about corrosion resistance, next time why not try one of the plates coated with some RIG grease? The fact of the matter is, gun owners really need two kinds of gun care products. For shooting you need a lubricant with some cleaning properties - for that i'd pick Mobil 1 or CLP - (if its good enough for the military its probably good enough for me). When I'm done shooting, I need a cleaner of course, and for that anything -Ed's Red, hoppe's, to transmission fluid, brake cleaner (my personal favorite, saves hours of scrubbing etc. and does an awesome job), or all of the above can be used. (For a .22 rimfire, lead build up in the bore is a major concern, so I like to use a lead remover product, it's probably a mistake not to, as it can build up fast with some kinds of ammo) For storing the gun now we need a different type of product and of the products shown in the vieo, most might be barely adequate for long term storage...If the gun is going to be stored indefinitely, with no one re-cleaning and relubing (a scenario that's all-too-common, and probably results in more rusted and ruined guns then anything else you can do to a firearm)- I would use RIG and/or Z corr bags. To use anything else is to risk going back to your guns and finding a pile of rusted junk. For shooting, IMO almost any gun lubricant you can buy will work just fine! It's STORAGE where your choice of gun care product really matters.
I swear by that Outers polarized gun oil, except I think the drip bottle does a little better job at corrosion resistance than the spray/aerosol
Thanks. Glad I switched from remoil to Froglube.
the plate has protective mill scale on it you should have ground it off to bare metal.
Good point.
I left one long comment but was not finished. To complete my comment I have to add that the older veggi based oils attract moister. Frog lube is veggi based and does not attract moister and works far better when the metal that it is applied to is heated be for treatment. Most new lubes are like this. Even the mobile one Will function better if applied to heated surfaces . rem oil must be shaken very well as does clp before each use. If it's liquid shake it good even if they say it is not necessary. All products mentioned in this video have there own set of basic rules that should be used when using them for firearm care except the veggi oil. And even it can be usefull when applied with limits observed.
this just means corrosionx is the best at helping your retain your finish and stopping/slowing rust, dont know how well it works as a lube id imagine pretty good if they make it that rust resistant they must make it a good lube, im sure there all great lube, you got to remember he sprayed salt water on them and salt water to metal is like krytonite to superman
There's more to firearm lubes than just corrosion protection.
Keeping your slide buttery smooth and other working parts to avoid jams is more important.
And old fisherman told me about Friction Zero and said he used it in all of his salt water reels.
This stuff works great not just on fishing reels, but on guns and folding knives as well.
pages.infinit.net/fishing/lubes.jpg
phpeters87 I'm aware of the need for lubrication which many of these products do fine. The video was titled with corrosion resistance in mind; not lubricity.
I'm a big fan of Slip 2000. The type you tested, while labeled as "protects", is advertised, and used, primarily as a lube, not a corrosion protector. I LUBE with Slip 2000, and oil/protect with Rem oil. For true long term storage, you need to use grease, not oil.
Hans S. You might have it a little bit backwards then because you shouldn't protect ANYTHING with Rem Oil, lol. As for long term storage, I'm using my guns usually on a monthly basis. A high grade protectant such as CLP or Corrosion X are perfect, especially if they are in a case.
BlueonGoldZ Maybe I do, but I have never had any issues using Rem oil. I use CLP, as a cleaner. Taking info from many experienced shooters, CLP should never be relied on as a lube or rust inhibitor. It was designed as a gun cleaner, and they decided later to advertise all the other uses, as most lube companies do. One major factor not introduced in this test (though is was very interesting and informative) is heat. A compounds ability to withstand high heat is what separates the men from the boys in the realm of firearms. CLP (and Rem oil) burn off at very low temps. That is where slip 2000 shines.
Hans S.
Hanz, I'm not sure if you are entirely correct or knowledgeable especially on the CLP. The military decades ago had a bid for the private sector to come-up with a chemical that could clean, lube and protect. I think they called it the "impossible" test and the makers of CLP were the ones to win it. I mean, even in my video, BreakFree CLP did an excellent job in protecting against very dense levels of salt in water. Matter-of-fact, if you compare how much you pay per ounce compared to CorrosionX compared CLP, CLP is the overall winner because you get much more per ounce. Rem Oil, as you mentioned burns off far to easily and is too thin to provide any lubrication. At most, I use the last bottle I had to spray down the external parts of some of my rifles and handguns and I don't plan on buying anymore. Overall, CLP is still being used by the military and it still does a great job. For civilians, it does an even greater job.
BlueonGoldZ I may very well be misinformed, and I am surely not to proud to admit fault and take advice. You definitely sound like you know more about this topic than myself. What then, is your top choice for lubricating? My applications are for an AR, some AK's, and random handguns.
One thing to remember though about the military. They don't necessarily use the best product, just the one that will do the job and is the lowest bidder.
Hans S.
Yeah, I'm familiar with the mil-spec standards and how it ties in fiscally with government budgets. Check out another TH-camr by the name of Fred Hart. I think his channel is named that of "The Gear Obsession Channel" where he tests different metal protectant through oven tests, anti- fouling and carbon tests etc etc. You'll see that Rem oil isn't great for maybe a cursory spraying over external parts that are not subject to wear and movement.
Wish you had included Gibbs in this test. I find it performs better than everything else I have used.
Thank you for this test!! Great Idea.
I always use Break free to clean and store my guns but use slip oil, slip grease, or both when lubing. Plain water or Rainwater would have been a more accurate test.
1) Lubri-kit
2) Eezox
3) Hornady 99936 TAP One Shot HD Extreme Use
4) CorrosionX
39) Fraud Lube
How could you leave out Balistol????
Didn't see any!
DavidsAddictions ill use ballistol forever. So damn good. And its a 3 in 1.
Yeah ballistol is a good clp
Also: Gibbs
Ballistol does not protect as well fro mcorrosion as simple mineral oïl (or also called parafin oïl). I had some parts rusting from ambient air humidity when using just ballistol. While I had none when using mineral oïl.
Don't know much about guns and don't know what prep you did to these plates, but did you clean the plates throughly with something like acetone before you applied the different oils? It may be that the splotching on some of the plates was from contaminated plates to begin with. Again, don't know how you started the experiment so not sure if you did this.
+AffordBindEquipment Yeah, I cleaned and then threw the plates into an oven to use the heat to get any residual cleaner off.
Tetra gun needs to get their shit together
Have used breakfree for years 👊🏻
For Frog Lube, did you heat up the metal prior to applying it? Thanks for your testing.
Yes. I think I did the heating-up part in the 2nd video.
Yes he did
How about Mobile -1 motor oil?
That's what I use. I found a needle-tipped application bottle on Amazon for like $3.00. A lot of people swear by "Red Oil" (motor oil, automatic transmission fluid, hoppe's #9 and mixed in a gallon jug. I've heard good things about Slip 2000 as well.
Great test. Thank you!
+Raven Lee that would require me to tear off the tape underneath every sample and reapply on a dirty tile. I didn't feel like doing any of that.
BlueonGoldZ could you do one with TW-25B????
Kano kroil, bore Tech, and Barnes cr-10 all have worked well for me. Ex army sniper told me he only uses Kano kroil and ed's red homemade cleaner.
I actually made my own Ed's red at home and it does seem to do VERY well at breaking down carbon as well as shotgun wad residue which is known to build up near the chokes. EXTREMELY cost effective. I still have a gallon of it and it is super easy to make as it is 4 quarts equal parts of 4 ingredients I got from home depot.
BlueonGoldZ I only use ed's red on my shotguns. Being carbon and plastic is the only build up you really get. I like stuff with a bit more strength for copper build up.
break free and attracting dirt lol break free keeps cleaning so the fouling works it's way out. that's why you clean your weapon 1 or 2 days after the initial cleaning. clp will get it all out.
The steel plates were out on my balcony for weeks upon weeks. Almost two months so dirt is not a criteria to be considered.
...and yes, I have noticed that if I go to some of my guns for a routine touch-up cleaning and re-oiling despite not being used after it's initial cleaning when it was used, there will be black carbon/dirt that comes out so yeah, it continues to work even after the initial cleaning.
Eezox will beat all of these products for corrosion-resistance.
Eezox is the 1st thing that goes on my firearms.
Substantiate your claim, please.
BlueonGoldZ
here: www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/628817_RUST_PROTECTION.html
and here: www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
and here: www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/502758_.html
and here: www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
2 of my ARs are chambered in 5.45x39mm, and I shoot milsurp corrosive-ammo through them, I left one of them uncleaned for 3months.. had no corrosion or signs of
Br Di On the AR15.com list of test, the person who used Eezox did not include Corrosion X in his test.
BlueonGoldZ I understand, but Ezzox is in all-in-one, cleans, lubes, prevents rust and is a dry-film lube
Para Digm so is Break Free CLP and many other products.
Opinions vary on all clp's, so many out there it's hard to count.Whatever works best for you...run with it.I've been using FL and Rand for years without a single issue.I'll stick to what works for me.
+CWB1863 Sorry but that is too much of a "politically correct" answer for me. In matter such as which is the best product, there is often a winner as to which product in a test range does best meaning there is no room for opinion, only fact. From what I know, Frog Lube has no friction inhibitors or high pressure anti-wear additives compared to brands such as Weapon Shield and Lucas which use Zinc and moly. For me, I don't want the gun to just run which Frog Lube will do- I also want to protect it against unnecessary wear and Frog Lube doesn't have those properties. I don't believe something derived from plants is best suited for such an inorganic and inhospitable environment as modern firearms. You're probably better off going to an autoparts store and getting Lucas Assembly Lube for engines which is one of the product I am using. It is a gel and contains zinc and moly and the bottle of it only cost $4.00 and will last probably far longer than Frog Lube which you paid a high premium for.
Looks like great minds think alike.Chime in more buddy, i always like conversing with people.
BlueonGoldZ Well, you make great points which i can't disagree with.As much as i "did" like FL and still feel it's a good product, i recently changed my cleaning/oiling process to M-pro 7.I have to say, i'm glad i did.The cleaner is really good, but the LPX oil is amazing.It's the perfect consistency.So far i ran 4 out of my 7 handguns with it and i'm really impressed.This stuff is definitely a keeper!
CWB1863 I have started using Lucas Oil Engine Assembly Lube as it has zinc and moly and is more of a gel. I live in a pretty hot area so I wanted something that would stay put and not get on my clothes as well as stay put when the gun is firing.
Sorry but looks like the mill scale hasn't been removed. Nothing on a gun has mill scale. Maybe some stamped parts like AKs but never anything heavy like plate steel.
Tom J Ahhh, someone with a scientific, thinking man's approach. You are correct. Valid test would be on gun metal alloys that have gun/ gun part finishes.
Robnord1 I was watching because I'd like the best choice to protect my industrial finish(black oxide) tools. If there's not a medium sized treated gun part that can be ordered cheaply then maybe somebody would like to try tools for their experiment. Or any suitable steel parts with a surface conversion finish. For anybody who might, the parts would need to be cleaned thoroughly first. Heat, detergent, solvent, or ultrasonic.
ever try Fluid Film? solvent free, lanolin based.
jamescrosby650 I have not however, I believe lanolin is animal-based and I don't trust something that is organic in nature to protect or to be used in something that is so inorganic in function (firearms/shooting).
+BlueonGoldZ He correct, it's worth looking into. unlike petroleum based lubes, it also burns much cleaner.
Jonathan Langford So far, Weapon Shield has shown the best results in protecting against wear as does Lucas Assembly Lube because they both container high pressure anti-friction additives. Unless it has those additives, like moly and zinc, it won't provide good anti-wear protection. CorrosionX is my go-to anti-rust protection. People who compete with RC cars who drive them through water and mud often dip their car's circuitry in CorrosionX oil and the circuitry can be submerged in water and not short out.
I only meant anti-corrosion. I store AKs with moly grease on the rails and everything else Fluid Film. It's cheap and readily available.
Man and I bought slip2000 because I seen another plate test where it won. Now I wish I went with Corrosion X
@@bryanx590 As far as clp goes, corrosionx is the best on the market by a longshot. It's lubricating properties alone are better than most dedicated lubricants. Makes cleaning a breeze and subsequent cleanings child's play.
Was frog lube test plate warmed up first?
I do know some people say to do that to essentially bake it into the metal, I've never done it but with frog lube it is really something you build up over time on the metal using it for cleaning and lubrication. I have a tub of frog lube I bought like 5+ years ago and I still have it and use it on some of my guns, it depends on the finish and gun though.
hey is g96 gun oil good for salt water like it advertise? and is hopps #9 gun oil good also?
john smith I use g96 and seems to work great on mine. Not sure on the salt water though
Best stuff i have used is shooters choice fp10 better than the rest.
Glad I didn't buy tetra. There are also trade offs. Frog lube might've given better protection. But it burns off 3x quicker than slip 2000. So for lubricating the party's that get hot slip is the way to go.
Yeah, there are some trade offs. I just don't like how Frog Lube is dry and cakes-up after non-use and it isn't slick when you first fire the gun. Lucas Oil just came out recently with a new extreme gun oil which is quite viscous and is supposed to be very slick to provide protection but won't move around as much and will stay-put. Frank Proctor did a small review of it on his channel.
Sounds like some interesting stuff.
I'd have been interested to see how Gibbs Brand compared.
I didn't see any of that brand, unfortunately. The beauty of these tests is that you can do them yourself as well. Very easy.
i will never use frog lube again. I have 4 major gripes about it, 1st the stuff gets gummy, if you have too much on. i know this is not how you are suppose to use it, but i had some spill in my pack and get on my pistol. It actually rusted.. 2nd, once you use frog lube, you have to keep using it on that weapon. Its not good to use other lubes once you have used froglube. This is not to great if you are out in the bush, and need to use what you find. 3rd. Its a tad pricey. its nothing but a food grade fat mixed with a wax., and its not too impressive. You can get the same result using animal fat. 4th when you contact froglube customer service or email them, they don't return your feed back. I used it on a few weapons, and had to get it off because i am a bit on the all over the place side..as far as im here and there, and use whatever resourses i have available. I think if you are using a glock, or a modern plastic weapon, and you are able to keep it in a un rugged setting., and are going to clean after every shooting. then maybe its for you. I prefer cleaning with diesel fuel, and lubing with transmission fluid. Its cheap, last forever and you find this everywhere. plus transmission fluid is a rust prevenative.
frog lube is canola oil
Also, you left out two of my favorites, Hoppes, and Barricade/aka Sheath. Also, just my guess, but 99% o0f all guns that get wet will be with rain water, not salt water. You might have ruined your tests by trying to add this into an over all test. We need to see which works best when just wet with rain water. I would say your results will be different.
No, I didn't ruin the test by using salt water. I wanted to use a 'worse-case scenario' for the test and if I had just used regular water, the test would've taken too long for my own personal time frame. I would wager that if it was just regular water, the results would still be the same with the top oils still performing the best. CorrosionX and BreakFree CLP are mainstays when it comes to corrosion protection.
BlueonGoldZ
I do not agree, but its your test. I will stick with what I know has worked for me for 45 years, which is Hoppes. Never had a gun rust, not even when hunting in pouring down rain for days.
You used Tetra Gun Triple Action, a CLP, not Tetra Gun Lube. Two entirely different products. If you were looking strictly at preservation, why not include cosmoline as a fairly well-known baseline?
Agreed. two totally different products. the one here is solvent based.
+Steve Hoback Because people don't use Cosmoline. People either use oils or CLPs such as Break Free. Tetra, on their product, specifically stated anti-corrosion so they were in the test.
What about Mobil 1
Eezoz vs. WD-40 Long Term Rust Inhibtor vs. CorrosionX, battle to the death.
I'll have to look-up that version of WD-40
UMM good test
Lucas for my guns & knives !
You try any of the new oils ? My favourite is Strike oil
Pro 7 user n kind of disappointed but then again case kept 🔐so should be fine
Can you do this test with Fire Clean?
Has Motor oil like , Mobile 1 Synthetic, been completely proven not to have corrosion protection or has
it been kept off the radar for other reason$.
DID NOT TEST BALLISTOL?
Thank you great video
I would of liked to see good ol engine oil in the mix. Nice job btw.
do you know what kind of steel you were using? i mean its not super important to the outcome, any kind of steel will give a generalized idea of the protection of the lubricants. But it would be an interesting test to use common firearms steel, such as 4140-4150 and 17-4 stainless
It was just regular low grade steel from a Home Depot. I don't know where to source the higher grade stuff and didn't want to go through the extra labor and expense. Regardless of steel type, the main focus and results were on the lubricants as you already stated.
BlueonGoldZ Cool thanks for getting back to me so quickly I appreciate it. I looked on the home depot site and it doesnt specify, but its most likely 10XX series low grade plain carbon steel, 1050 1095 or something like that and in its unfinished unhardened state it makes a good test medium. Im about to rebarrel an old gun, If I get around to it Ill do a similar test on a blued steel barrel. It would be interesting to see if some oils protect a finish like that better than others.
SavageShooter93
Yeah, it would be pretty interesting. Let me know and post a video.
The steel samples appear to have the original rough pickled steel finish right from the manufacturer. Your test samples should have been prepared as test samples are prepared in a metallurgical laboratory with approximately five different grits of sandpaper on glass sanding blocks followed by polishing with three different grits of diamond dust followed by a de-greasing bath. Your results are not valid.
I hope you're not being serious and you're just trying to troll. None-the-less, my results are perfectly valid. Each steel sample was cleaned and then thrown in an oven already at 500 degrees to burn off any moisture. My results mirror the results of other TH-camrs who used the same or similar products. Your comment is invalid. I should delete it.
BlueonGoldZ Your steel samples are construction washers, possibly of random melts, probably of low carbon A36 steel. I would suggest that you select one finely finished large plate of known origin on which to test all the protectants. Perhaps an old gun barrel with a fine finish would provide the best test medium.
***** This suggestion is much more reasonable.
Hi BlueonGoldZ, have you heard of Gibbs lubricant? I have a friend that swears by it for almost everything. Just curious if it's in the snake oil category.