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Quick tip from Peugeot garage….instead of taking the cam sprockets off you can cut the old belt and take it off…then squeeze the new belt from the top down. Regardless, you have done a phenomenal job
Sorry its advised to replace the depahazers on any vvt espailay the pure-crap shitron Nobro do them for 70 each Also there is a newer belt as psa ate aware of this stupid idear of wetting the belt
Absolute madness, running a rubber timing belt in oil, a blatant method by the engine designers to guarantee early engine failure, I would avoid any car with this idea, purely for that reason and tell anyone I know, to avoid them.
im an old timer motor engineer, proper points and tappets man , being old and grumpy i dont get impressed much, but im well impressed with this video and content details , that chap knows his job, a fantastic video one of the best "how too" on youtube ,well done.
As I am still on the tools at the age of 63,self employed for the last 34 years,the wet belt system is absolutely mad what are those so called engineers, / designers thinking about, maybe the Arabs have something to do with this concerning the use of oil at set intervals.
Hello thank you very much for the video, it motivated me to do this repair myself on my 208 having very basic knowledge of mechanics. To begin with I would like to add that luckily I found a way to do the job without having to remove the exhaust manifold completely which saved me some steps. I did this by releasing the manifold and holding it on the hood hook, leaving just enough space to remove the valve cover, put the cam locking tool and be able to maneuver the gears!. This way I didn't have to drain the coolant or remove the battery box. I do had some troubles putting the belt in the IN dephaser, so what I did was to remove the tensioner to first accommodate the belt on both dephasers to put the tensioner on last, it worked perfect that way too. I followed the rest to the letter, it took me about 7 hours with a lunch break hehe. You did a terrific work explaining everything thank you very much again, I saved a little money and got a lot of experience and confidence. Big hug from Chile!
Thank you so much for the compliments. Hopefully with regular oil changes (6k) the new belt will last unlike the original ones. Thank you for also sharing your experience as it will help others reading through the comments.
Did mine last weekend. Followed your 2 videos step by step and got it changed after 6-8 hours ! Struggled a bit on those rear bolts on the manifold but got them out using my interior rear-view mirror. Replacing them was a piece of cake! Thanks for the money saved. I did it on my 208 from 2013 80.000km. If I had to do it again, I'm sure I'll take half of the time.
@@CoatsandGaiters Not as bad as yours but it had some little cracks. The manufacturer suggests to replace it every 8 years and that mainly why I did it.
Thank you. Your video help me a lot. I'm fresh after timing kit replace in my 208 1.2 It took me 10 hours to get it done but it was worth it. I don't know what to do with so much saved money now😅 To all who plan do it by yourself: Don't forget to replace all gaskets and seals -Valves cover -Timing cover -Manifold
Thank you for the compliment and really pleased it helped you. Like you say you should replace the other gaskets and seals ideally. Possibly some bolts as well.
Looking at the wet timing belt brought me to your channel. I do all my own car maintenance and repairs but haven't yet done a wet timing belt. I cannot believe the state of the belt in this video. 125k replacement interval? Really? I genuinely cannot believe how great your videos are. Probably the best I've seen on TH-cam! Thank you
Thanks so much for an excellent video. Comprehensive, thorough, and well-paced. I have been "amateur spannering" since 1976, have changed several timing belts on everything from a Fiat Seicento to a Citroen XM, but I was not looking forward to working on this small, cramped and apparently flimsy engine. An independent was quoting £800.00. The car has sentimental value, being owned by my late father-in-law, so we didn't want to dispose of it. I pressed on regardless! Thanks, again, forsharing your work.
@@CoatsandGaiters You're welcome! This morning, I pounced on a Peugeot driver in the manner of a street evangelist, asking if the belt on his 3008 had been done recently! If I was able to add anything to this video, it would be a reminder that the water pump is a stretchy belt. In many years of spannering, I've never actually come across one. No tools were available locally. Thankfully, a friendly local independent/MOT station recommended a length of old seat belt trapped between belt and pulley, which did the job in five minutes. Also, I tried to doubly reassure myself that the timing was correct by cranking the engine with a socket, setting TDC on the flywheel, and seeing if my painted marks would realign. They didn't. Thinking of the physics/mechanics of the set-up, I guess that they only line up ever 87th turn or similar, a bit like a planetary eclipse. The car had been aligned with the tools, new belt put back on my painted marks, having counted teeth, and it ran fine, so I was probably faffing too much.
Excellent video, thank you.. Having bought a Peugeot 208 1.0 for my Son to learn to drive in, I realise now it may have been a bit of a mistake and have to get this belt changed ASAP.. and have the sump removed and oil pump gauze checked. Hopefully, with a new type belt and regular servicing, the engine will be reliable enough over the next 2-3 years. Now to find a garage to do the job that are as meticulous as you!
hi , my girlfriends brother is a first mechanic at citroen ,peugeot. they have a lot of 1.2 puretech with this problem. (also the puretech have a lot of problems with caked valves at 30000 miles and need to be sandblasted) the litlle parts of the belt can also plug up the tiny oil ports and seeze youre engine or can give you a faultcode and the litlle belt pieces can plug the oil pressure holes for the cam timing. they think its because of the biofuel in the gasoline , here in Belgium the recommend to buy 98 ocatane over 95 because in octane 95 the bio fuel is more present. and the do not put any gas improver products in the gastank because it maybe can attack the timing belt (if this product gets in the oil) they also have a messure tool to messure the belt every oil change to see if its not swollen (if it fails the belt gets thicker)) he also says that if these 2 problems didn't come on these engines that they are not breakable because he tried to run a 1.2 puretech engine without oil to get a new one on garantee and it took 2 days to break
After developing another random fault with the inlet solenoid I managed to have a chat with the head tech at my dealer. He pretty much repeated the above. Aside from the belts, the coked inlet ports used to be a diesel only problem but now, down to direct injection, it affects petrol as well. I never had a problem with this as I was doing 300 miles a week on fast a roads.
Hi chevroletbelair1 . Is this problem common on Pegueot 308 1.2 without turbo, or is this problem common on both engine types with or without turbo? So when you can not have gas improver in the engine, then there is really nothing to do with the problem besides run the motor on quality oil and change often I assume? I have a pegueot 308 2014 mod 1.2 without turbo, walked only 35000 km, just changed the timing belt, but i was not aware of this...
@@davidbrathen2268 The comments on here seem to point at the Puretech design as a whole. I think generally speaking the belt in oil design has caused a lot of issues across other makers as well. Ford have had similar issues with there belt in oil, with bits breaking off and clogging the oil ways. So I think its the weakness of a rubber belt in hot dirty engine oil that's the cause of the issues.
@@CoatsandGaiters Coats and Gaiters: Thanks for the reply. So in other words, if I'm careful about changing oil, using quality oil and driving nicely with the car, maybe it can go well. I have just changed the timing belt on 35000 km. I think pegueot recommends changing the timing belt after 10 years, or 175000 km on this model, but then maybe I should change earlier next time to be sure ? After how many kilometer do you recommend changing timing belt with this issue in mind ? Is there any particular rubber belt that is inferior to others that you know of that they use in these pureteck engines?
Molto ben fatto... molto esplicativo complimenti... io avrei sostituito anche il paraolio del "porta puleggia" dei servizi, la puleggia che fa girare la pompa dell'acqua ed il compressore dell'aria condizionata, mi hanno insegnato che i paraoli vanno SEMPRE sostititi se vengono toccati... Very well done ... very explanatory congratulations ... I would also have replaced the oil seal of the "pulley holder" of the services, the pulley that turns the water pump and the air conditioning compressor, they taught me that the oil seals they should ALWAYS be replaced if they are touched ...
Thank you for the compliment and yes your right I should have replaced many other items but the owner just wanted the belt changed at absolute minimal cost as they had had enough of the problems and costs with the car.
Thanks very much for your video, it help me to save money and make me able to do it, I'm not a professional ! Your explanation are very clear and really detailled. I did the change according your process, but I avoided to remove the 2 top phaseurs gears. I inspected the replaced by belt which was in a good chape, I didnt see any debris in oil. My car a C4 cactus is 7 years old 108000 km
Just had to take the sump off my 208 to clean pick up strainer, jammed with clunks of timing belt, watching this has given me the confidence to give it a go myself... I'll let you know how it goes, thank you for the very informative video 😎👍
Great video. Very clear, very clean. Thank you for sharing. Much appreciated. I have a peugeot 2008 EB2DT since 3 years now at 150 000 km. Service was done first 2 years at peugeot until I discovered they did not change the oil and filter. Since then I started changing the oil & filter myself at 10 000 km interval. I use Motul 0W30 specific PSA 2312. The belt still looks fine from the oil cap but planning to change it soon.
@@CoatsandGaiters yes, I doubted first time after the last service they did when I checked the oil level that was quite low right after 2000 Km of use, they said it's rather the engine burning oil and need to be redone or replaced, Now the timing was crazy good for them as the car was just out of warranty. Then I figured I will just service it myself and see how it evolves, and it turns out to be so far so good.. when the ambient temp is high it turns black right after 8000, but in the current weather/winter never black, never at minimum. I couted an average of 0.15L/1000 km while their spec is 0.25L ... Go figure !
Ah, I have the same engine on my 2008 GT. I use the same oil. I think peugeot recommends to change the belt around 60000 miles. I change my oil every 5000 miles.
As a professional mechanic I was sure impressed with your work. Well done. Also just looked at this quickly as have one next week coming in. I think I best allow more time than I previously thought !
Well thank you very much for such a compliment. I will try and not let this go to my head.....it might a bit though! Pleased it gives you a heads up for your own job to do.
Mine miraculously reached nearly 70k miles but recently started throwing a random warning light again. This time it was the inlet solenoid. I had it fixed and promptly traded it in for something Japanese with a timing chain. I had a long conversation with a very knowledgeable tech of 40 years experience at Peugeot and he confirmed the problems associated with this engine design. Lots of TSBs for this are now in circulation at the dealership's. On that very day they had one in for low oil pressure and then a further two cropped up on the 308 Facebook group. PSA won't admit the problem outright as a recall would ruin them and I think they are just trying to manage it on the fly. Unfortunately, the unsuspecting punters that are buying these at 5 years old outside of the dealer network will be thrown to the wolves when faced with a £5k bill to replace the engine.
I'm hearing this so often on here. It's a nightmare for owners that have spent good money and effectively they are loosing that money which in todays climate is very hard to come by. The old reliable cars are now vanishing from the 2000's being replaced with cars having to follow high emission regulations along with the untold issues these now keep giving every owner. DPF, chocked inlet ports etc etc just never ends sadly.
Thank you for saying so ........."thank you for taking the time to make this superb video all the explanations are very clear as a bonus all the tightening torques a big thank you"
I got the same vehicle , did 250 000km with same timing belt. It stripped some teeth and bent 2 exhaust valves. I replaced the exhaust valves, new timing belt and drive belt. Driving fine now.
135,000 miles !!! what was your secret. Your the first person to have a positive comment so I think everyone would love to know how you pulled that off. Please tell us what oil, how frequently you changed etc etc
The belt change interval was downed to 100 000km in 2017, and older belts types was forbidden (older belts was made with softer polymers and was desintegrated from the oil, this clog the oil strainer =can destroy the engine, and some from this older belts did break...My own Puretech 2017 EB2DT (puretech turbo 110hp) as now he's first belt change at 100 000km and the belt looks in very good condition, far better as the belt in this video...BUT i did change the oil (only Total 0w30 PSA 2312) all 12500km (Peugeot say 25000km...) and i drive the most on roads/highways...
Lol, my 2016 had a belt interval of 112000 miles. When I contacted Peugeot about having it changed early they told me it wasn't necessary. Meanwhile the post 2017 models have a official first belt interval at 64000 miles. It's a joke!
Now chains, they love oil, obvious really.! Thanks for this post mate, excellent production, it's made my mind up I'm going for PSA's more traditional diesel.
Haha lol I did wonder if the petrols are designed to be disposable. Look after it and do lots of oil changes and things may be good but neglect it at all and you may just pay a heavy price.
@@CoatsandGaiters majster,ja mením olej každý rok v zime. Mám 308 z roku 2014 1.2 puretech 121 000 km. Remeň sa rozpadol pri 69000km pred 4 rokmi. Zatiaľ je kľud. Ďakujeme za poučné video a drahocenné komentáre.
@@11thp Master, I change the oil every year in the winter. I have 308 from 2014 1.2 puretech 121 000 km. The belt fell apart at 69000km 4 years ago. Zatiaľ is crazy. Thanks for the instructive video and valuable comments. ---- Thank you for this information (C&G)
New 1.2 DS3 owner here, I’m well aware of the issues prior to buying my accident damaged one (project to hopefully make a bit of money) but my god I cannot get over how quick the car is and the insane amount of torque she has, I’ve driven a Ford fiesta 140bhp eco boost and that was flat as a fart compared to the PSA 1.2
Now you come to mention it. I drove this car once and was amazed at how it pulled like you say. Problem is their is never a free lunch and reliability seems to be the trade off.
@@steveman1982 I forgot about that! Didn't Ford have an issue with the belt perishing and blocking the oil ways causing no end of issues. This belt in oil really doesn't seem to have many pluses.
I know lol, Chain in oil sounds ok but a rubber belt in dirty hot engine oil doesn't sound so smart. I believe it's to meet ever tightening EU emissions. Slight reduction in friction improves miles per gallon.
@@CoatsandGaiters A timing chain is not always THE solution: see the TSI engines from VW, all the 4 cyl BMW and... the V8 HEMI... who had all many problems with the chain and he's accessories (harmonic resonances issues)...First who use such belts was Ford on 1.0L ecoboost engines...
I guess we expect everything man made to last a long and healthy life but in reality so many external factors play a part. Then you have the different driving characteristics of everyone. Some rag the hell out of them and some only start them for local shopping where nothing warms up properly.
@@CoatsandGaiters that's absolutly true: city or short distances driving, kill all pistons engines, but much more the modern engines...but another factor is extremly important with this engines (same for the Ford Ecoboost 3cyl): take often oil changes! 25000km is far too much, then oil+ combustion residues = agressive substances who destroy the belts and clog the engine.I did change the oil all 12500km, so mid between 2 (25000km) maintenances (or 1x Year), and only with PSA standard B71 2312 oil ...50€ oil+ filter all 12500km cost less as 7000€ for a new engine...
@@CoatsandGaiters common fault apparently , I only bought the car in November already knowing I was going to replace it , when I saw the cracks I took it to where I work to replace it, should be done tomorrow
@@georgenewton5544 bit frustrating for buyers really. A car purchase is such a major expense and to loose and engine through possibly a manufacturer taking a shortcut possibly with the intention of making the car somewhat disposable isn't a good thing.
excellent video,have just changed my car oct 2020,,did my research, said No No No, to anything VW group with TSI on it, and same with Puretech PSA. YEP You guessed i bought Honda V-Tech with Morse chain cam drive! Having nursed a 1560 Peugeot HDI TO 100 K, with sump dropped and oil pick up regular cleaning, turbo oil feed filter removed, opened up turbo oil feed banjo bolt,high strength magnet in oil bango allen key drive ,retained in blue tack, removed valve cover, and cleaned all none draining oil cavities every oil change, along with oil filter block, checked diesel injectors tight regular, and did injector seals, sold at 100k with original turbo, done with diesel for new, with my now low annual mileage, but did prefer the Diesel drive, Dieselhead since 1994, we are being shoehorned into small petrol /hybrid/electric cars,, farewell to a golden age
Thank you for that Louisgunn. Made interesting reading. You've not gone for the later Honda's with the Earth Dreams technology then? I presume you talking the VTECH like I did the head gasket on in my 10 part series?
@@CoatsandGaiters my new car is i vtech, i'm old school TBH, and do all my own maintenance( retired HGV Mechanic), i like a car that is reliable and comfortable, and find some of the 'progress' in car engineering lamentable, not a believer in extended oil changes, for small highly stressed engines with turbo's, i tell anyone who will listen oil is the life blood of your engine, if you know nothing else, use a quality oil,and oil filter and regular changes around the 8k mark, can't comprehend spending thousands on a car, and scrimp a few quid on fandaaazzy oil and a gwenshui oil filter! No i hanvt gone for earth dreams tech, tho i've , cheers a few friends who smoke a bit of weed now and then, an get the same effect? Just thought your format was easy and informative to follow,one last thing i always tell my missus after a run in a turbo car, don't just stop it,explained about turbo rev's ,job of the oil ,lubrication, heat removal blah blah,basically let it idle for a minute before shutdown, then me i open the bonnet rather than let it soak in engine bay heat,as stated got to 100k on Pug 1560 hdi still on original turbo running sweet, sort of bears out my theories, can't believe some of the youtube clips about what comes out of some oil sumps cheers
@@louisgunn all those words are out of my mouth as well. We do oil changes every 8k and that's on cars that cost us £2k. My wife has run 4 Lagunas up to 150k miles each but she drives sensibly, lots of oil changes and we do all maintenance straight away and we find they keep going. She doesn't let it idle before turning off but I think its at idle when she arrives anyway, but I do. Your meant to let it idle and allow the turbo to spool down with oil being feed to it. Like you say people aren't interested today in what appears to be old fashioned methods. I have a 1.6 Peugeot to mend yet with only 60k miles. Apparently they didn't do the crank nut up tight enough at the factory and they can spin out of alignment on the timing. I'm still puzzled as I read they aren't keyed at the crank only pressure held !!!!!! my logic says cant be true but apparently it might be. Modern cars are just a disposable nightmare compared to when Saabs and Volvo's were around.
@@CoatsandGaiters i had the same experience on my hdi PUG, pulley to power steering and alternator crankshaft bolt loose, chewed woodruff key and shoulder of pulley away before any noise came apparent, thought it might be water Pp, or alternator, until i saw all the shiny swarf, thankfully crank is harder material,second hand pulley off ebay, pin punched all mating surfaces,then thread locked crankbolt, with homemade locking tool, torqued up till it sheared then back half a turn! Sorted! All the little things you mention seem insignificant on a daily basis, but its cumulative over time.My daughter is running a 18 year old yaris 1.3, with 148k on the clock,runs sweet as a nut,course she brings it to dad for oil change every 7500 miles!, My anorak obsession is brakes,that hang or drag, all calliper contact surfaces are buffed, i cut down the anti rattle rubber on calliper pins, and polish pin itself,,how sad is that, bottom line you get max performance and MPG out of what you've got, if i can't push car with a couple of fingers i'm looking for why.Keep up the good work cheers.
Currently PSA group has a recovery campaign for this problem. If you go to your Peugeot / Citroën / DS service they will measure the condition of the belt and it will be changed free of charge if necessary. It is important to have done all the maintenance (in any workshop, it does not have to be an official service) and present the invoices.
Hi great video, just had a call from my mechanic after my Peugeot 208 1.2 16reg, had an oil pressure light come on, he’s diagnosed the timing belt is basically crumbling bits are getting everywhere and get this iv owned it from new serviced once a year and just 29k on clock can’t believe it what a crappy design!
Oh blimey !!!! thats really bad. Really sorry to hear this as cars consume a huge part of our income and we shouldn't have such basic issues especially when we look after them as well. Keep us updated.
it's super common problem on the 1.2 PureTech and VTI i looked to buy 308 and saw about 10-15 cars. every third of them had it's engine rebuild or replaced because the timing belt crumbling.
It's been like 2 months now since I sorted mines out my mechanic used this video as a reference and all I would like to say is damn the French like making things difficult but overall the engine has been brought back to life after sitting for 1 year and is running perfectly fine
That’s fantastic news to hear. Glad my video helped you and your mechanic. Keep changing that oil regularly to maintain things as oil changes might be the key.
How often do you suggest doing an oil change for these systems... kinda hate that Peugeot wants to be different from the normal with these belt in oil systems
@@mckyleramthal7412 Belt in oil became common as emissions became tighter and tighter and miles per gallon became everyone's goal. Ford had plenty of issues as well with their belt in oil. Personally I'd change the oil every 6 months or 6,000 miles to ensure the belt is running in clean oil with minimum acids.
Sacré boulot pour changer cette courroie, mais je revendrais la mienne avant cette échéance, je vois pas les mécanos professionnels français effectuer un travail aussi soigné, bravo pour cette réalisation 👍
Thank you for your kind comments. I have tried to show as much detail as possible to help others if they wish to do the job themselves. Not easy trying to play to the cameras and get those hard to reach shots but hopefully it helps others. Thank you again.
n'importe quoi: j'ai un ami qui a un minuscule garage et procède de la même façon (il a fait la mienne), le travail n'est guère plus long ni plus difficile que pour une courroie de distribution ordinaire sur un moteur double arbre à cames...de plus une voiture vendue sans changemeent de courroie est plus difficile à vendre cout de l'opération chez le concessionnaire Peugeot pour un puretech turbo: 620€
@@geralddubreucq1883 Le seul qui raconte des conneries ici c'est toi...un moteur à double arbres à cames et doubles déphaseurs (ex: les VAG TSI de moins de 2L récents) avec courroie extérieure, nécessite EXACTEMENT le même travail, la seule différence est que la courroie n'est pas grasse...c'est mon ami mécano auto professionnel depuis 25ans qui me l'a dit et j'ai tendance à plutôt le croire lui...
Good video, very informative. I think the reason you had problems tightening the camshaft and crankshaft bolts is because you didn't use new bolts. As they are torque to yield bolts they should always be replaced as they stretch when torqued.
Thank you for your valuable feedback. I think your right. I could sense if I carried on turning something bad was going to happen lol. Already stretched I suspect as you say.
Exept of course only lasting 60k means more manufacturing so no good for the planet at all ! As usual done because its cheaper nothing to do with emmisions at all. should have engineered a decent chain instaltion and had done with it.
Great video. Thinking of getting a DS3 with this engine as I have driven a Corsa which has one. I would likely take the sump off too to inspect the pick up pipe. Would probably see some old belt goo in the oil filter.
Also in regards to the tightness of those torque to yield bolts. I wonder if they felt excessively tight because they wasn’t new bolts and the stretch had already occurred when they was first done up at factory.
Perhaps for those who are afraid they may have lost timing: an easy way to establish that the timing is still correct is by turning the engine using the crankshaft bolt a few times and insert the crankshaft locking tool. If you are subsequently able to install the camshaft locking tool without force, the timing is correct.
Great job. I have a new C4 Cactus, and at the first service in Serbia they poured Shell oil 0-30w not Total. They say in the authorized service that it is according to the directive of Citroen. I don’t know what quality Shell oil is. I am not able to choose😁 Best regards
Thank you. Is it Total Quartz 9000 Energy 0W30 Synthetic Technology Engine Oil they recommend? I think that’s what they advise for the EP6 engine. Presume it’s good as it’s £50 for 5 litres.
@@CoatsandGaiters Please, for information, someone commented that these engines should be filled with stronger gasoline of 98 octane, and not of 95. The user manual only states that unleaded gasoline should be poured, they did not specify how much octane. Thanks for your reply
@@dr.colosso pozdravujem tankujem len 100 oktánový benzín. Lebo pri nízkom oktánovom benzíne typu E10 95 motor vynecháva a zadrháva. A ešte dolievam do benzínu aditíva. Motor 1.2 puretech 130. A dlhodobo bez problémov
Ive got the “oil pressure” warning coming up constantly. Assuming the belt has degraded and gotten into the oil. What a shocking piece of engineering. How likely will a belt replacement be to fix the issue? Anything else I should check first?
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks buddy. Do you think I could tell by simply removing sump plug and checking the oil itself? Could do without another day spent under a car ideally lol.
@@masitraproductions977 I think you might be wise to remove the sump and check as I did read about the fibres of the belt building up on the gauze and effectively lining it completely. It wasn't so much the rubber bits but the material strands I read.
Thank you for the comment. The job was easier than changing the bushes on a Mini One where you have to lower the subframe because the bolts are inaccessible.
Very explanatory video, one of the best I have seen. When tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt I presume the crankshaft locking pin stopped the engine from turning and was man enough for the job, not all locking pins are designed for this and will shear. Do the dephaser pulleys and crankshaft pulleys use stretch bolts and if so should they have been replaced?
Thank you for your kind comments. I presume the locking pin shouldn't shear but what a good question with a scary thought if it did shear. Maybe thats down to the quality of the tool though I did use a set that was under £50. I cannot answer about if the bolts were stretch type as I only had a limited amount of standard information from the online source. Because this work was very cost dependant I didn't have access to the full Peugeot Service Manual which would give more information. I reused all the bolts and didn't read anything that suggested changing them. Ironically the car with family visited today and all seems well after 3 months of daily driving. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
Thank you for your reply, I did find this on You-Tube th-cam.com/video/gx2AHZfyalM/w-d-xo.html there is no mention of stretch bolts being used or needing renewal.@@CoatsandGaiters
@@CoatsandGaiters Peugeot service manual states the crank and camshaft bolts are not to be reused. As a Peugeot tech I replace them, however I have seen other techs re-use them, I err on the side of caution as catastrophic engine damage will occur if they break.
@@molenz1960 Your absolutely right but when a customer has paid a lot of money for a car and then finds the timing belt is falling apart they get really angry that Peugeot has sold them an engine that's already on the edge of catastrophic engine damage straight from the factory that they say 'Just mend for the least amount of money as I'm selling straight after". The last thing they want to do is spend more than is absolutely necessary to get the car working and get shot of. When I mentioned those bolt's they just looked at me and said "what give Peugeot more money because they can't make a proper engine !!!". I sort of see their point. Why worry about bolt's failing when the belt will fail anyway and cause catastrophic engine damage.
Thank for 100% detailed Tips my belt is renewed by back call from Peugeot at 23.000km 4 year old, and a week before a maintenace and after the belt replace there is a water leak at the waterpump, is this easy to replace because peugeot say 750€ for this repair at 23000km !?
That's sort of good news that they replaced it but boy that's such low mileage to be having things fixed isn't it. I think the water pump might be a separate item so I'd have thought it would be fairly simple. I'd look on TH-cam someone is bound to have done one. 750 a lot of money at such a young age.
@@CoatsandGaiters I have seen by maintenance two years back that they put a can of cleaning add in the gasoline and also in the motoroil and Peugeot and Citroen recomand no add in the motor oil so thats why they replaced the belt !
These and the ford ecoboost engines are terrible, the timing belt sheds fibres blocking the oil pump strainer well before the timing belt service interval. The engine starve of oil destroying the engines. Later ECU on many were updated to put the engine in to limp mode if low oil pressure was detected.
Nice info better than a haynes manual one thing i would have added to this job is like an old vw 1.8 20v turbo always Drop the sump and check and clear the oil pick up as waste of time doing the job if it starves of oil firing it up
Thank you and very sound advice. One of my first videos so was a bit overwhelmed filming and mending at the same time. But what you say is very important.
Great video!! I watched only out of my technical interest for car engines. This is much more work than I tought it would be. Really well done this video 👍👍
Hello, thank you for your very clear and complete video. Did you replace the crankshaft sprocket bolt ? impossible to find it at PSA in France! I ordered it 15 days ago it is "out of stock"
Hello! I have Peugeot 208 1.2 PureTech 2016. Car have 54.000km and today i look the cambelt from Oil cap. Belt looks like new,no cracks nothing. Maybe you know service interval? One say to me 5years or 175000km. Car is 5years old but belt like new. Should i change it ir its okey to drive until 10years and about 100.000km? ✌️✌️
There's so much on this subject you might be best reading the comments as it's been a big issue and Peugeot might have already changed it as so many were failing.
Note the difference in condition between the wet belt and the dry accessory belt...says it all. Also interesting that they have a chain drive down to the oil pump. Ha! Did you drop the pan and clean the strainer on the oil pick up? It gets clogged with belt debris causing oil pressure failure and engine self destruct.
Great job! Thank you Coats and Gaiters. "Belt in oil" looks really strange.. PSA experts should have thought about it. They have to use belts those can tolerate heat and oil. Are there any rubber/like belt that can tolerate/resist heat? I dont know the answer of this question? Do you?
Thank you for the compliment Muhammed. I expect the belt can handle the heat and oil but I expect the build of exotic acids etc that build up in used motor oil over time would play there part in breaking the belts down. That's a bit of a guess mind you. When they did the testing trials did they use clean oil of get some old polluted stuff to see how they affects things.
Peugeot must have taken into account that the timing belt can withstand both high heat and oil, something else seems a little strange ? Expect that if you use quality oil and change oil well before the interval change that it goes well ... quality oil and change in good time is probably the key word here ..but off course, timing belts in oil are probably not the best solution..
@@CoatsandGaiters Exceptional informative video. And thanks for your advice of changing oil every 6,000ish miles. I have bought a 2 years old Crossland X and it has engine as same as Peugeot 2008
@@mph122 thank you kindly for the comment and hope it helps you out. Clean oil can only be better for a highly strung engine over dirty polluted oil I think. Take care.
Thank you for your comment. There is a specific plastic tool I believe but I never found it online. I did buy the Lisle one and have added a link under my video description. There is also a video showing how to use the Lisle on TH-cam. th-cam.com/video/OEI_06b1F_8/w-d-xo.html. Hope this helps.
Superb video. I have a 1.2 THP130 in a late 2016 (face-lift) C4GP and will keep an eye on the belt through the oil filler hole. Don't do a lot of miles so it would be an age thing. Mind I'm 70 so I'm not sure which is going to last longer me or the belt. 😂
@@tenfootvoyager it's very handy that they did allow for visual inspection through the filler hole. I suspect regular oil changes is the key to it lasting a long time. With a car the oil seems to play such an important role. You sound like a young 70 so I'd put my money on you outliving the car. Take care
Now after 3 cold starts of my Peugeot 208 GT-Line 2017 24.000km and new Timing belt , I hear some more growling sound, tomorrow to the repair garage than they can hear it also and if it is no problem I can sleep well !
@@CoatsandGaiters no problem found, and after 30 km driving the growling sound I don't hear, and a very good plan for renew the water pump with 50% refund
Oustanding video, thanks you from Guadeloupe. Going to buy the material, and will do that this summer. One question : I read we need a special tool to put back in place the small belt that train the water put. Did you used a special tool, or succeed without it?
Thank you very much for saying so. I think they were 'stretch' belts for the water pump and there should be a link to the tool below my description. It's just a wedge device to aid the belt back on without damaging it.
The new belt has been running fine since, but my advice would be to increase the oil and filter changes and use a quality oil. Skipping oil changes to save money might bite back with these belts in oil. Better they run in clean oil with less pollutants than old oil which might carry more pollutants that may degrade the belts materials. Personally I would have mechanical sympathy towards the engine. Racing the engine and getting things super hot can't help with things lasting longer. But thats my personal view only. Thank you for your comment.
Thanks again for this great video, I feel now ready to do it ! About the central screw (at 10:28) of the Crankshaft pignon, you can use the same ? Or you mounted a new one ? (same question for the 3 screw for the pulley) Theses screws arent sold with the SNR distribution kit I've bought. I've read some people saying you MUST change it, et some people saying they used the same so.... Thanks again for your advices ;D Greeting from Guadeloup
I didn't replace the seal and was very careful not to nip the edge or anything. If you can't get a seal I wouldn't worry too much. The belt is the important bit. I'd check oil level frequently and change every 5,000 miles.
@@CoatsandGaiters I've found a seal, not very expensive, 12 euros, but didn't yet found the central screw of th3 crankshaft pigeon. Seems it'll be better to change it, cause it's a strong thightening.
@@ced777 sorry I mis understood. Yes the crank bolt should be replaced. Any fastener with an angle tighten is torque to yield and must be replaced. I didn’t on this engine but you should.
@@CoatsandGaiters (sorry my English is not perfect 😁) I will change it, at least the central one. You haven't been afraid it broke when you used the same?
Argh! we have just bought a Citroen C3 2013 with this engine and with no history of the timing belt being done am now dreading what's ahead! Think I better try and view the belt though the oil filler cap asap!
Здравствуйте, видео поучительно, но, вот у меня вопрос, двс EB2PT 1.2 19г Скажите пожалуста как правильно выстовить зажигание? И, пропуски зажигания вчем может быть проблема?
Its all electronically controlled. These engines do suffer a lot if everything isn't spot on. You can go from one issue to another and never seem to solve anything. We sold it on in the end.
hello, I'm fixing a car that is out of phase, the question I ask you is the following: I should find the phase point of the crankshaft and then block it, so I can install the timing belt correctly so as not to make the engine out of phase, could you give me a tip/suggestion on how to do this? Thank you.
If you think this is bad, the 3 Cyl 1.2 VW engine form circa 2004 has a problem with sticking exhaust valves and getting the head off is next to impossible without breaking the aluminium cam chain cover. We have rubber seals and plastic cam cover, so a wet belt should, in theory, be achievable with reliability. It is clear the composition of the belt is just not compatible with those conditions. I presume these engines are also interference engines, so WHEN these belts snap or slip, the engine is totally busted? I winced when you were adding 120 degrees to the dephaser bolts; 120 degrees is probably right for new bolts which haven't yet been stretched. Once stretched, if re-using, maybe much less, perhaps 60 degrees is appropriate?
Thank you for the comment. Haha you winced...I could feel it going soft on me which I why I stopped suddenly, can't remember if I pretended to turn it the full amount or not but I soon stopped when I thought hang on this isn't getting tighter !!!! Like you say you should use new bolts.
@@CoatsandGaiters I think I would use the old bolts as well. Maybe one way is to find out how much torque is needed to move the bolts after the initial "snap" when undoing them then torque them back up to just a tad more than that, or use the feel for how tight the bolts should be knowing how much force you used to undo them. I used that technique when re-using those bolts which go straight through the K-series engine when replacing a head gasket, and that worked fine. If a bolt starts going limp, then replace it. If one K series engine bolt needed replacement, I'd replace them all for even pressure.
@@nickhill9445 I did a head gasket series on the K series engine. The quality of them seems so much higher than other engines. everything seemed precision made.
Hi, I’m looking to buy a 1.2 Peugeot 208, which looks clean, but doesn’t have a full service history. I am no car expert by any means, but my concern is the “wet timing belt”. Is there a way for me to check the condition of the wet timing belt on the car? It’s exactly like the one in your video. Thank you
Thanks for the video. I have a 308 puretech 82 and now 117000 km and when i look to timing belt it has no crakling. Am i the only one that i don t need to change the timing belt before 100000km ? Is this reference of timing belt also suitable for the non-turbo version ?
Have you done a lot of oil changes Sofian? as I wonder if regular oil changes and sympathetic driving may play a role in how the belt survives. Not sure on the non turbo I'm afraid.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks for your reply . I bought it in Peugeot's car dealership with some oil changes with 0w30 oil and maintenance. I m cool with driving , I drive the car in the smoothest way possible . I think thanks to that i have a low consumption of 5.5 l/100on highways and roads and 6.0 on city.
@@sofianelmoussaoui2926 they do drive well I found. It wasn't my car but a family members at the time. I did like it and would probably buy one to be honest.
Always in the direction of normal rotation. If I recall it’s clockwise while looking at the pulley. Best check in my video to see which way I rotated it.
It's always better to replace all gaskets but in the case of this car the owner was weighing up his losses already on the car going wrong so early in his ownership. He was pretty frustrated to be spending money on timing belts when he thought he had bought a reliable car.
@@CoatsandGaiters Oh yes, sorry, you noticed that at 15:50 :D And for the screw of the Crankshaft pignon, you can use the same ? Or you mounted a new one ? (same question for the 3 screw for the pulley) Theses screws arent sold with the SNR distribution kit I've bought. Thanks again for your advices ;D Greeting from Guadeloup !
I believe they did improve the quality. The comments often have new advice from mechanics that work for Peugeot in. I think things did get better. The advice is always to change the oil every 6,000 miles as the best preventitive measure.
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Hello I would like to know if the PSA they resolve this problem today?
@@busuioc92 I think they might have or offer a longer warranty.
Quick tip from Peugeot garage….instead of taking the cam sprockets off you can cut the old belt and take it off…then squeeze the new belt from the top down. Regardless, you have done a phenomenal job
That’s really useful to know Laura. Thank you for the compliment. One of my early videos that one.
@@jacks3626 give it a try should work well
Sorry its advised to replace the depahazers on any vvt espailay the pure-crap shitron
Nobro do them for 70 each
Also there is a newer belt as psa ate aware of this stupid idear of wetting the belt
This is why I buy Japanese cars, proper timing chains and no matter how good the oil is, change it every 6000 miles.
Absolute madness, running a rubber timing belt in oil, a blatant method by the engine designers to guarantee early engine failure, I would avoid any car with this idea, purely for that reason and tell anyone I know, to avoid them.
im an old timer motor engineer, proper points and tappets man , being old and grumpy i dont get impressed much, but im well impressed with this video and content details , that chap knows his job, a fantastic video one of the best "how too" on youtube ,well done.
Thank you for the compliment sir.
Yes indeed, brilliant video, but at 86years old I must now leave this to a Peugeot garage.
As I am still on the tools at the age of 63,self employed for the last 34 years,the wet belt system is absolutely mad what are those so called engineers, / designers thinking about, maybe the Arabs have something to do with this concerning the use of oil at set intervals.
Great camera work and clear explanation, 👌👍
@1gerard47 Yes, maybe it's a modern idea , but us old timers know belts and oil don't go together
Hello thank you very much for the video, it motivated me to do this repair myself on my 208 having very basic knowledge of mechanics. To begin with I would like to add that luckily I found a way to do the job without having to remove the exhaust manifold completely which saved me some steps. I did this by releasing the manifold and holding it on the hood hook, leaving just enough space to remove the valve cover, put the cam locking tool and be able to maneuver the gears!. This way I didn't have to drain the coolant or remove the battery box.
I do had some troubles putting the belt in the IN dephaser, so what I did was to remove the tensioner to first accommodate the belt on both dephasers to put the tensioner on last, it worked perfect that way too.
I followed the rest to the letter, it took me about 7 hours with a lunch break hehe.
You did a terrific work explaining everything thank you very much again, I saved a little money and got a lot of experience and confidence.
Big hug from Chile!
Thank you so much for the compliments. Hopefully with regular oil changes (6k) the new belt will last unlike the original ones. Thank you for also sharing your experience as it will help others reading through the comments.
Good thinking with the manifold ;-)
You deserve congratulations for devotling so much time to informing other people
Great video
Thank you for that comment. Really appreciated.
Did mine last weekend. Followed your 2 videos step by step and got it changed after 6-8 hours ! Struggled a bit on those rear bolts on the manifold but got them out using my interior rear-view mirror. Replacing them was a piece of cake! Thanks for the money saved. I did it on my 208 from 2013 80.000km. If I had to do it again, I'm sure I'll take half of the time.
Fantastic news Nicolas, hope it all goes well. Had the belt broken up much or was it mostly intact.
@@CoatsandGaiters Not as bad as yours but it had some little cracks. The manufacturer suggests to replace it every 8 years and that mainly why I did it.
@@nicolasmertens5795 that’s good hopefully you caught it in time. The little bits can block oil ways.
Thank you. Your video help me a lot.
I'm fresh after timing kit replace in my 208 1.2 It took me 10 hours to get it done but it was worth it. I don't know what to do with so much saved money now😅
To all who plan do it by yourself:
Don't forget to replace all gaskets and seals
-Valves cover
-Timing cover
-Manifold
Thank you for the compliment and really pleased it helped you. Like you say you should replace the other gaskets and seals ideally. Possibly some bolts as well.
Looking at the wet timing belt brought me to your channel. I do all my own car maintenance and repairs but haven't yet done a wet timing belt. I cannot believe the state of the belt in this video. 125k replacement interval? Really? I genuinely cannot believe how great your videos are. Probably the best I've seen on TH-cam! Thank you
Thank you for such a lovely compliment. I hope I can get back into them soon. That belt was terrible wasn't it !!!!!
Thanks so much for an excellent video. Comprehensive, thorough, and well-paced.
I have been "amateur spannering" since 1976, have changed several timing belts on everything from a Fiat Seicento to a Citroen XM, but I was not looking forward to working on this small, cramped and apparently flimsy engine.
An independent was quoting £800.00. The car has sentimental value, being owned by my late father-in-law, so we didn't want to dispose of it.
I pressed on regardless! Thanks, again, forsharing your work.
Thank you for the message and hope it helps.
@@CoatsandGaiters You're welcome!
This morning, I pounced on a Peugeot driver in the manner of a street evangelist, asking if the belt on his 3008 had been done recently!
If I was able to add anything to this video, it would be a reminder that the water pump is a stretchy belt. In many years of spannering, I've never actually come across one. No tools were available locally. Thankfully, a friendly local independent/MOT station recommended a length of old seat belt trapped between belt and pulley, which did the job in five minutes.
Also, I tried to doubly reassure myself that the timing was correct by cranking the engine with a socket, setting TDC on the flywheel, and seeing if my painted marks would realign. They didn't. Thinking of the physics/mechanics of the set-up, I guess that they only line up ever 87th turn or similar, a bit like a planetary eclipse. The car had been aligned with the tools, new belt put back on my painted marks, having counted teeth, and it ran fine, so I was probably faffing too much.
Very professional work. Worked cleanly and all regulations were observed.
Appreciate your kind comments HorstR. Thank you.
Excellent video, thank you.. Having bought a Peugeot 208 1.0 for my Son to learn to drive in, I realise now it may have been a bit of a mistake and have to get this belt changed ASAP.. and have the sump removed and oil pump gauze checked. Hopefully, with a new type belt and regular servicing, the engine will be reliable enough over the next 2-3 years.
Now to find a garage to do the job that are as meticulous as you!
Thank you for such a compliment Richard. Keep that oil changed every 6,000 miles as that's the secret with these new engines.
hi ,
my girlfriends brother is a first mechanic at citroen ,peugeot.
they have a lot of 1.2 puretech with this problem.
(also the puretech have a lot of problems with caked valves at 30000 miles and need to be sandblasted)
the litlle parts of the belt can also plug up the tiny oil ports and seeze youre engine or can give you a faultcode and the litlle belt pieces can plug the oil pressure holes for the cam timing.
they think its because of the biofuel in the gasoline , here in Belgium the recommend to buy 98 ocatane over 95 because in octane 95 the bio fuel is more present.
and the do not put any gas improver products in the gastank because it maybe can attack the timing belt (if this product gets in the oil)
they also have a messure tool to messure the belt every oil change to see if its not swollen (if it fails the belt gets thicker))
he also says that if these 2 problems didn't come on these engines that they are not breakable because he tried to run a 1.2 puretech engine without oil to get a new one on garantee and it took 2 days to break
Thank you for that information, I will post this to the the top so that it may help others.
After developing another random fault with the inlet solenoid I managed to have a chat with the head tech at my dealer. He pretty much repeated the above. Aside from the belts, the coked inlet ports used to be a diesel only problem but now, down to direct injection, it affects petrol as well. I never had a problem with this as I was doing 300 miles a week on fast a roads.
Hi chevroletbelair1
. Is this problem common on Pegueot 308 1.2 without turbo, or is this problem common on both engine types with or without turbo? So when you can not have gas improver in the engine, then there is really nothing to do with the problem besides run the motor on quality oil and change often I assume? I have a pegueot 308 2014 mod 1.2 without turbo, walked only 35000 km, just changed the timing belt, but i was not aware of this...
@@davidbrathen2268 The comments on here seem to point at the Puretech design as a whole. I think generally speaking the belt in oil design has caused a lot of issues across other makers as well. Ford have had similar issues with there belt in oil, with bits breaking off and clogging the oil ways. So I think its the weakness of a rubber belt in hot dirty engine oil that's the cause of the issues.
@@CoatsandGaiters Coats and Gaiters: Thanks for the reply. So in other words, if I'm careful about changing oil, using quality oil and driving nicely with the car, maybe it can go well. I have just changed the timing belt on 35000 km. I think pegueot recommends changing the timing belt after 10 years, or 175000 km on this model, but then maybe I should change earlier next time to be sure ? After how many kilometer do you recommend changing timing belt with this issue in mind ? Is there any particular rubber belt that is inferior to others that you know of that they use in these pureteck engines?
Designed to be difficult and expensive to repair. Thant's what's wrong with the world today. Good on you for doing this!
Life is certainly more challenging I think today. Thank you for the comment.
@@CoatsandGaiters Definitely! And thanks right back at you :)
Molto ben fatto... molto esplicativo complimenti... io avrei sostituito anche il paraolio del "porta puleggia" dei servizi, la puleggia che fa girare la pompa dell'acqua ed il compressore dell'aria condizionata, mi hanno insegnato che i paraoli vanno SEMPRE sostititi se vengono toccati...
Very well done ... very explanatory congratulations ... I would also have replaced the oil seal of the "pulley holder" of the services, the pulley that turns the water pump and the air conditioning compressor, they taught me that the oil seals they should ALWAYS be replaced if they are touched ...
Thank you for the compliment and yes your right I should have replaced many other items but the owner just wanted the belt changed at absolute minimal cost as they had had enough of the problems and costs with the car.
Thanks very much for your video, it help me to save money and make me able to do it, I'm not a professional !
Your explanation are very clear and really detailled. I did the change according your process, but I avoided to remove the 2 top phaseurs gears.
I inspected the replaced by belt which was in a good chape, I didnt see any debris in oil. My car a C4 cactus is 7 years old 108000 km
Thank you for that and so pleased to hear the video helped you out.
Just had to take the sump off my 208 to clean pick up strainer, jammed with clunks of timing belt, watching this has given me the confidence to give it a go myself... I'll let you know how it goes, thank you for the very informative video 😎👍
P.s. do you have any new affiliate links for the cam locking tool?
Oh dear, hopefully you've caught in in time. Good Luck.
Great video. Very clear, very clean. Thank you for sharing. Much appreciated.
I have a peugeot 2008 EB2DT since 3 years now at 150 000 km. Service was done first 2 years at peugeot until I discovered they did not change the oil and filter. Since then I started changing the oil & filter myself at 10 000 km interval. I use Motul 0W30 specific PSA 2312. The belt still looks fine from the oil cap but planning to change it soon.
Thank you for the comment. Regular oil changes is the key I believe. Did you confront them about not changing the oil and filter?
@@CoatsandGaiters yes, I doubted first time after the last service they did when I checked the oil level that was quite low right after 2000 Km of use, they said it's rather the engine burning oil and need to be redone or replaced, Now the timing was crazy good for them as the car was just out of warranty. Then I figured I will just service it myself and see how it evolves, and it turns out to be so far so good.. when the ambient temp is high it turns black right after 8000, but in the current weather/winter never black, never at minimum. I couted an average of 0.15L/1000 km while their spec is 0.25L ... Go figure !
@@Roadster-007 as long as all is ok now that's the main thing.
Ah, I have the same engine on my 2008 GT. I use the same oil. I think peugeot recommends to change the belt around 60000 miles. I change my oil every 5000 miles.
As a professional mechanic I was sure impressed with your work. Well done. Also just looked at this quickly as have one next week coming in. I think I best allow more time than I previously thought !
Well thank you very much for such a compliment. I will try and not let this go to my head.....it might a bit though! Pleased it gives you a heads up for your own job to do.
You can change The belt without taking The camwheel of, its little tricky but it works
@@markuslarsson2640 thank you for that info. Worth bearing in mind.
Congratulations, the world needs more people like you,Now i dare to bay a care with such an engine .Thx
Thank you Geert for the compliment.
Mine miraculously reached nearly 70k miles but recently started throwing a random warning light again. This time it was the inlet solenoid. I had it fixed and promptly traded it in for something Japanese with a timing chain. I had a long conversation with a very knowledgeable tech of 40 years experience at Peugeot and he confirmed the problems associated with this engine design. Lots of TSBs for this are now in circulation at the dealership's. On that very day they had one in for low oil pressure and then a further two cropped up on the 308 Facebook group. PSA won't admit the problem outright as a recall would ruin them and I think they are just trying to manage it on the fly. Unfortunately, the unsuspecting punters that are buying these at 5 years old outside of the dealer network will be thrown to the wolves when faced with a £5k bill to replace the engine.
I'm hearing this so often on here. It's a nightmare for owners that have spent good money and effectively they are loosing that money which in todays climate is very hard to come by. The old reliable cars are now vanishing from the 2000's being replaced with cars having to follow high emission regulations along with the untold issues these now keep giving every owner. DPF, chocked inlet ports etc etc just never ends sadly.
merci d avoir prit le temps de faire cette superbe vidéo toute les explication sont très clair en bonus tout les couples de serrage un grand merci
Thank you for saying so ........."thank you for taking the time to make this superb video all the explanations are very clear as a bonus all the tightening torques a big thank you"
@@CoatsandGaiters would it be possible to make the same video but all in french? :)
@@vecteurtech1019 Wish I could but no longer have the car or speak your language I'm afraid.
@@vecteurtech1019 il y a éventuellement la traduction automatique des sous-titres intégrée au lecteur
Nicely done !
Watching this does make me wonder who came up with the "brilliant" idea of wet timing belts
Thank you Christopher. All about meeting EU emissions I believe and lower CO2.
I got the same vehicle , did 250 000km with same timing belt. It stripped some teeth and bent 2 exhaust valves. I replaced the exhaust valves, new timing belt and drive belt. Driving fine now.
135,000 miles !!! what was your secret. Your the first person to have a positive comment so I think everyone would love to know how you pulled that off. Please tell us what oil, how frequently you changed etc etc
I m still waiting for answer.. PSA B71 2297 and etc. coded oil is very important i believe..
nice job ! many "professionals" should learn on this video...
Thank you so kindly
Bonjour, très bonne vidéo, précise et détaillée : very good job !
Thank you for your kind comments. I do hope it will offer some help to other home mechanics.
The belt change interval was downed to 100 000km in 2017, and older belts types was forbidden (older belts was made with softer polymers and was desintegrated from the oil, this clog the oil strainer =can destroy the engine, and some from this older belts did break...My own Puretech 2017 EB2DT (puretech turbo 110hp) as now he's first belt change at 100 000km and the belt looks in very good condition, far better as the belt in this video...BUT i did change the oil (only Total 0w30 PSA 2312) all 12500km (Peugeot say 25000km...) and i drive the most on roads/highways...
Thank you for contributing this information. Hopefully it will help others.
Lol, my 2016 had a belt interval of 112000 miles. When I contacted Peugeot about having it changed early they told me it wasn't necessary. Meanwhile the post 2017 models have a official first belt interval at 64000 miles. It's a joke!
Tu mantenimiento del aceite fue muy bueno. Buena aceite y cortos intervalos, esa es la clave.
Me too, c3 1,2 82 2017. Change oil every 10-12,5 thousand km, 0w30 total. Now with 95k km the belt is like new.
W30
Now chains, they love oil, obvious really.! Thanks for this post mate, excellent production, it's made my mind up I'm going for PSA's more traditional diesel.
Haha lol I did wonder if the petrols are designed to be disposable. Look after it and do lots of oil changes and things may be good but neglect it at all and you may just pay a heavy price.
@@CoatsandGaiters After what period of time do you recommend changing the oil?
@@ОлександрГладченко-щ7д I'd change it every 6,000 miles if it were my car. Cheaper to change oil than mend engine.
@@CoatsandGaiters majster,ja mením olej každý rok v zime. Mám 308 z roku 2014 1.2 puretech 121 000 km. Remeň sa rozpadol pri 69000km pred 4 rokmi. Zatiaľ je kľud. Ďakujeme za poučné video a drahocenné komentáre.
@@11thp Master, I change the oil every year in the winter. I have 308 from 2014 1.2 puretech 121 000 km. The belt fell apart at 69000km 4 years ago. Zatiaľ is crazy. Thanks for the instructive video and valuable comments. ---- Thank you for this information (C&G)
New 1.2 DS3 owner here, I’m well aware of the issues prior to buying my accident damaged one (project to hopefully make a bit of money) but my god I cannot get over how quick the car is and the insane amount of torque she has, I’ve driven a Ford fiesta 140bhp eco boost and that was flat as a fart compared to the PSA 1.2
Now you come to mention it. I drove this car once and was amazed at how it pulled like you say. Problem is their is never a free lunch and reliability seems to be the trade off.
Awesome video but yes 120 degs had me worried thinking the bolt head would shear 😅😅
Thank you Gary for the compliment.
You are completely right, That belt was tosted. Totally done.
Think I agree with you. Bet the engine didn't have long left in that state. Thankfully still going strong today since replacing.
@@CoatsandGaiters And even without the belt snapping, particles coming off can cause all kinds of mayhem, blocking oil canals etc. Good call!
@@steveman1982 I forgot about that! Didn't Ford have an issue with the belt perishing and blocking the oil ways causing no end of issues. This belt in oil really doesn't seem to have many pluses.
Those engines sound like a bag of bolts, belt in oil what a great idea!
I know lol, Chain in oil sounds ok but a rubber belt in dirty hot engine oil doesn't sound so smart. I believe it's to meet ever tightening EU emissions. Slight reduction in friction improves miles per gallon.
@@CoatsandGaiters A timing chain is not always THE solution: see the TSI engines from VW, all the 4 cyl BMW and... the V8 HEMI... who had all many problems with the chain and he's accessories (harmonic resonances issues)...First who use such belts was Ford on 1.0L ecoboost engines...
I guess we expect everything man made to last a long and healthy life but in reality so many external factors play a part. Then you have the different driving characteristics of everyone. Some rag the hell out of them and some only start them for local shopping where nothing warms up properly.
@@CoatsandGaiters that's absolutly true: city or short distances driving, kill all pistons engines, but much more the modern engines...but another factor is extremly important with this engines (same for the Ford Ecoboost 3cyl): take often oil changes! 25000km is far too much, then oil+ combustion residues = agressive substances who destroy the belts and clog the engine.I did change the oil all 12500km, so mid between 2 (25000km) maintenances (or 1x Year), and only with PSA standard B71 2312 oil ...50€ oil+ filter all 12500km cost less as 7000€ for a new engine...
@@leneanderthalien you write exactly what I think on the matter. I think they have pushed things a bit too far to early.
My wetbelt was in the same condition, currently replacing it, great video
Whats the mileage on your car George out of interest? Thank you and hope my video makes your life easier. At least it gives you a heads up on the job.
@@CoatsandGaiters 67,000 miles my mate, this video is very informative very grateful you made it as its helped me a lot
George Newton so less than the one I did !!! There must be loads of these snapping !
@@CoatsandGaiters common fault apparently , I only bought the car in November already knowing I was going to replace it , when I saw the cracks I took it to where I work to replace it, should be done tomorrow
@@georgenewton5544 bit frustrating for buyers really. A car purchase is such a major expense and to loose and engine through possibly a manufacturer taking a shortcut possibly with the intention of making the car somewhat disposable isn't a good thing.
excellent video,have just changed my car oct 2020,,did my research, said No No No, to anything VW group with TSI on it, and same with Puretech PSA. YEP You guessed i bought Honda V-Tech with Morse chain cam drive! Having nursed a 1560 Peugeot HDI TO 100 K, with sump dropped and oil pick up regular cleaning, turbo oil feed filter removed, opened up turbo oil feed banjo bolt,high strength magnet in oil bango allen key drive ,retained in blue tack, removed valve cover, and cleaned all none draining oil cavities every oil change, along with oil filter block, checked diesel injectors tight regular, and did injector seals, sold at 100k with original turbo, done with diesel for new, with my now low annual mileage, but did prefer the Diesel drive, Dieselhead since 1994, we are being shoehorned into small petrol /hybrid/electric cars,, farewell to a golden age
Thank you for that Louisgunn. Made interesting reading. You've not gone for the later Honda's with the Earth Dreams technology then? I presume you talking the VTECH like I did the head gasket on in my 10 part series?
@@CoatsandGaiters my new car is i vtech, i'm old school TBH, and do all my own maintenance( retired HGV Mechanic), i like a car that is reliable and comfortable, and find some of the 'progress' in car engineering lamentable, not a believer in extended oil changes, for small highly stressed engines with turbo's, i tell anyone who will listen oil is the life blood of your engine, if you know nothing else, use a quality oil,and oil filter and regular changes around the 8k mark, can't comprehend spending thousands on a car, and scrimp a few quid on fandaaazzy oil and a gwenshui oil filter! No i hanvt gone for earth dreams tech, tho i've , cheers a few friends who smoke a bit of weed now and then, an get the same effect? Just thought your format was easy and informative to follow,one last thing i always tell my missus after a run in a turbo car, don't just stop it,explained about turbo rev's ,job of the oil ,lubrication, heat removal blah blah,basically let it idle for a minute before shutdown, then me i open the bonnet rather than let it soak in engine bay heat,as stated got to 100k on Pug 1560 hdi still on original turbo running sweet, sort of bears out my theories, can't believe some of the youtube clips about what comes out of some oil sumps cheers
@@louisgunn all those words are out of my mouth as well. We do oil changes every 8k and that's on cars that cost us £2k. My wife has run 4 Lagunas up to 150k miles each but she drives sensibly, lots of oil changes and we do all maintenance straight away and we find they keep going. She doesn't let it idle before turning off but I think its at idle when she arrives anyway, but I do. Your meant to let it idle and allow the turbo to spool down with oil being feed to it. Like you say people aren't interested today in what appears to be old fashioned methods. I have a 1.6 Peugeot to mend yet with only 60k miles. Apparently they didn't do the crank nut up tight enough at the factory and they can spin out of alignment on the timing. I'm still puzzled as I read they aren't keyed at the crank only pressure held !!!!!! my logic says cant be true but apparently it might be. Modern cars are just a disposable nightmare compared to when Saabs and Volvo's were around.
@@CoatsandGaiters i had the same experience on my hdi PUG, pulley to power steering and alternator crankshaft bolt loose, chewed woodruff key and shoulder of pulley away before any noise came apparent, thought it might be water Pp, or alternator, until i saw all the shiny swarf, thankfully crank is harder material,second hand pulley off ebay, pin punched all mating surfaces,then thread locked crankbolt, with homemade locking tool, torqued up till it sheared then back half a turn! Sorted! All the little things you mention seem insignificant on a daily basis, but its cumulative over time.My daughter is running a 18 year old yaris 1.3, with 148k on the clock,runs sweet as a nut,course she brings it to dad for oil change every 7500 miles!, My anorak obsession is brakes,that hang or drag, all calliper contact surfaces are buffed, i cut down the anti rattle rubber on calliper pins, and polish pin itself,,how sad is that, bottom line you get max performance and MPG out of what you've got, if i can't push car with a couple of fingers i'm looking for why.Keep up the good work cheers.
@@louisgunn Why am I thinking you should be the one doing TH-cam !!!! You sound like you have a wealth of knowledge that could do with being heard.
Currently PSA group has a recovery campaign for this problem. If you go to your Peugeot / Citroën / DS service they will measure the condition of the belt and it will be changed free of charge if necessary. It is important to have done all the maintenance (in any workshop, it does not have to be an official service) and present the invoices.
Thank you for this information Alex, much appreciated.
Hi great video, just had a call from my mechanic after my Peugeot 208 1.2 16reg, had an oil pressure light come on, he’s diagnosed the timing belt is basically crumbling bits are getting everywhere and get this iv owned it from new serviced once a year and just 29k on clock can’t believe it what a crappy design!
Oh blimey !!!! thats really bad. Really sorry to hear this as cars consume a huge part of our income and we shouldn't have such basic issues especially when we look after them as well. Keep us updated.
it's super common problem on the 1.2 PureTech and VTI i looked to buy 308 and saw about 10-15 cars. every third of them had it's engine rebuild or replaced because the timing belt crumbling.
@@vapex5462 wow that's a high number !!! worth bearing this in mind when looking to buy one of these cars. Thank you.
It's been like 2 months now since I sorted mines out my mechanic used this video as a reference and all I would like to say is damn the French like making things difficult but overall the engine has been brought back to life after sitting for 1 year and is running perfectly fine
That’s fantastic news to hear. Glad my video helped you and your mechanic. Keep changing that oil regularly to maintain things as oil changes might be the key.
How often do you suggest doing an oil change for these systems... kinda hate that Peugeot wants to be different from the normal with these belt in oil systems
@@mckyleramthal7412 Belt in oil became common as emissions became tighter and tighter and miles per gallon became everyone's goal. Ford had plenty of issues as well with their belt in oil. Personally I'd change the oil every 6 months or 6,000 miles to ensure the belt is running in clean oil with minimum acids.
Thanks man that info really means alot
nice vid clear discription , a baked bean tin is the exact size for the seal
Thank you. A tip worth knowing.
Sacré boulot pour changer cette courroie, mais je revendrais la mienne avant cette échéance, je vois pas les mécanos professionnels français effectuer un travail aussi soigné, bravo pour cette réalisation 👍
Thank you for your kind comments. I have tried to show as much detail as possible to help others if they wish to do the job themselves. Not easy trying to play to the cameras and get those hard to reach shots but hopefully it helps others. Thank you again.
n'importe quoi: j'ai un ami qui a un minuscule garage et procède de la même façon (il a fait la mienne), le travail n'est guère plus long ni plus difficile que pour une courroie de distribution ordinaire sur un moteur double arbre à cames...de plus une voiture vendue sans changemeent de courroie est plus difficile à vendre cout de l'opération chez le concessionnaire Peugeot pour un puretech turbo: 620€
analyste raconte pas de connerie
@@geralddubreucq1883 Le seul qui raconte des conneries ici c'est toi...un moteur à double arbres à cames et doubles déphaseurs (ex: les VAG TSI de moins de 2L récents) avec courroie extérieure, nécessite EXACTEMENT le même travail, la seule différence est que la courroie n'est pas grasse...c'est mon ami mécano auto professionnel depuis 25ans qui me l'a dit et j'ai tendance à plutôt le croire lui...
analyste mais boucle la tocard, j’en ai rien à cirer de ton ami mécano .
Good video, very informative. I think the reason you had problems tightening the camshaft and crankshaft bolts is because you didn't use new bolts. As they are torque to yield bolts they should always be replaced as they stretch when torqued.
Thank you for your valuable feedback. I think your right. I could sense if I carried on turning something bad was going to happen lol. Already stretched I suspect as you say.
@@CoatsandGaiters Always glad to give a good advice if i can:)
@@CoatsandGaiters these should always be replaced .
Exept of course only lasting 60k means more manufacturing so no good for the planet at all ! As usual done because its cheaper nothing to do with emmisions at all. should have engineered a decent chain instaltion and had done with it.
After watching this video I slipped the belts on and off without unbolting the dephasors, it's not difficult
Thank you so much for your videos. Really great, it helped me a lot when I replaced the timing belt on my car.
Thanks again
😊
That's great news and thank you for taking the time to say so.
Great video. Thinking of getting a DS3 with this engine as I have driven a Corsa which has one. I would likely take the sump off too to inspect the pick up pipe. Would probably see some old belt goo in the oil filter.
Thank you
Bardzo pomocny film.
Thank you for your comment.
Also in regards to the tightness of those torque to yield bolts. I wonder if they felt excessively tight because they wasn’t new bolts and the stretch had already occurred when they was first done up at factory.
I did feel a slight give when I reused the bolts. Clearly they need to be replaced with new bolts or risk them shearing.
why not use were instead of was
@@josephberrie9550 Why not choose not to be a grammar nazi?. I mean your grammar isn't perfect either to be fair.
Thanks dude, retared design this, again thanks for the vid!
Hope it helps and thank you for the comment.
Perhaps for those who are afraid they may have lost timing: an easy way to establish that the timing is still correct is by turning the engine using the crankshaft bolt a few times and insert the crankshaft locking tool. If you are subsequently able to install the camshaft locking tool without force, the timing is correct.
Bedankt
Thank you Theo. Much appreciated.
Great job. I have a new C4 Cactus, and at the first service in Serbia they poured Shell oil 0-30w not Total. They say in the authorized service that it is according to the directive of Citroen. I don’t know what quality Shell oil is. I am not able to choose😁 Best regards
Thank you. Is it Total Quartz 9000 Energy 0W30 Synthetic Technology Engine Oil they recommend? I think that’s what they advise for the EP6 engine. Presume it’s good as it’s £50 for 5 litres.
It used to be Total which was on recommendation, and from 2020 the recommendation is Shell full synthetic 0-30w. The car is 1.2 puretech 110 petrol
@@dr.colosso Thank you for the update on that. I'd definitely use the good stuff in those engines and change it regular.
@@CoatsandGaiters Please, for information, someone commented that these engines should be filled with stronger gasoline of 98 octane, and not of 95. The user manual only states that unleaded gasoline should be poured, they did not specify how much octane. Thanks for your reply
@@dr.colosso pozdravujem tankujem len 100 oktánový benzín. Lebo pri nízkom oktánovom benzíne typu E10 95 motor vynecháva a zadrháva. A ešte dolievam do benzínu aditíva. Motor 1.2 puretech 130. A dlhodobo bez problémov
Ive got the “oil pressure” warning coming up constantly. Assuming the belt has degraded and gotten into the oil. What a shocking piece of engineering. How likely will a belt replacement be to fix the issue? Anything else I should check first?
I think you might need to remove the sump and check the gauze on the oil pickup as it might be blocked with the rubber from the belt.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks buddy. Do you think I could tell by simply removing sump plug and checking the oil itself? Could do without another day spent under a car ideally lol.
@@masitraproductions977 I think you might be wise to remove the sump and check as I did read about the fibres of the belt building up on the gauze and effectively lining it completely. It wasn't so much the rubber bits but the material strands I read.
@@masitraproductions977 www.2008ownersclub.co.uk/threads/1-2-puretec-low-on-power-and-oil-pressure-fault.4038/
@@CoatsandGaiters thanks a bunch buddy 👍
Mate, this is awesome video ! Helps a lot!!
Thank you
Very good video, good job, I have to do the same on my 308. thank you very much
Thank you for the comment. The job was easier than changing the bushes on a Mini One where you have to lower the subframe because the bolts are inaccessible.
Very explanatory video, one of the best I have seen. When tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt I presume the crankshaft locking pin stopped the engine from turning and was man enough for the job, not all locking pins are designed for this and will shear. Do the dephaser pulleys and crankshaft pulleys use stretch bolts and if so should they have been replaced?
Thank you for your kind comments. I presume the locking pin shouldn't shear but what a good question with a scary thought if it did shear. Maybe thats down to the quality of the tool though I did use a set that was under £50. I cannot answer about if the bolts were stretch type as I only had a limited amount of standard information from the online source. Because this work was very cost dependant I didn't have access to the full Peugeot Service Manual which would give more information. I reused all the bolts and didn't read anything that suggested changing them.
Ironically the car with family visited today and all seems well after 3 months of daily driving. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
Thank you for your reply, I did find this on You-Tube th-cam.com/video/gx2AHZfyalM/w-d-xo.html there is no mention of stretch bolts being used or needing renewal.@@CoatsandGaiters
@@CoatsandGaiters Peugeot service manual states the crank and camshaft bolts are not to be reused. As a Peugeot tech I replace them, however I have seen other techs re-use them, I err on the side of caution as catastrophic engine damage will occur if they break.
@@molenz1960 Your absolutely right but when a customer has paid a lot of money for a car and then finds the timing belt is falling apart they get really angry that Peugeot has sold them an engine that's already on the edge of catastrophic engine damage straight from the factory that they say 'Just mend for the least amount of money as I'm selling straight after". The last thing they want to do is spend more than is absolutely necessary to get the car working and get shot of. When I mentioned those bolt's they just looked at me and said "what give Peugeot more money because they can't make a proper engine !!!". I sort of see their point. Why worry about bolt's failing when the belt will fail anyway and cause catastrophic engine damage.
Great job! Have you ever tried contitech ct1228 timing belt? It has 5years guarantee by the manufacturer. It designed for 1.2 puretech engine.
I haven't personally as I was just doing the one job.
Thank for 100% detailed Tips my belt is renewed by back call from Peugeot at 23.000km 4 year old, and a week before a maintenace and after the belt replace there is a water leak at the waterpump, is this easy to replace because peugeot say 750€ for this repair at 23000km !?
That's sort of good news that they replaced it but boy that's such low mileage to be having things fixed isn't it. I think the water pump might be a separate item so I'd have thought it would be fairly simple. I'd look on TH-cam someone is bound to have done one. 750 a lot of money at such a young age.
@@CoatsandGaiters I have seen by maintenance two years back that they put a can of cleaning add in the gasoline and also in the motoroil and Peugeot and Citroen recomand no add in the motor oil so thats why they replaced the belt !
@@rongeernaert1208 arrrr I see
very informative video, I don't have this engine but was interested in the wet belt system.
Thank you for the comment
These and the ford ecoboost engines are terrible, the timing belt sheds fibres blocking the oil pump strainer well before the timing belt service interval.
The engine starve of oil destroying the engines.
Later ECU on many were updated to put the engine in to limp mode if low oil pressure was detected.
people need to pay very close attention to oil grades very important to this set up
and very regular oil changes to keep those acids levels low.
A VERY GOOD AND DETAILED VIDEO
Thank you kindly
Did you just tighten down the crankshaft bolt with the flywheel locking tool in position?
Can't remember it was 5 years ago now.
Nice info better than a haynes manual
one thing i would have added to this job is like an old vw 1.8 20v turbo always
Drop the sump and check and clear the oil pick up as waste of time doing the job if it starves of oil firing it up
Thank you and very sound advice. One of my first videos so was a bit overwhelmed filming and mending at the same time. But what you say is very important.
Excellent video, one of the best I've seen, and I've seen a lot of videos
Thank you Sir. Hope it assisted you.
A perfect way to teach
A great video
Thank you sir
Thank you
@@CoatsandGaiters hello I have the impression that between the 2 camshafts the belt is not taut its normal;, THANK A LOT
Great video!! I watched only out of my technical interest for car engines. This is much more work than I tought it would be. Really well done this video 👍👍
Thank you for the comment. Are you needing to do the job on your own car?
Hello, thank you for your very clear and complete video. Did you replace the crankshaft sprocket bolt ? impossible to find it at PSA in France! I ordered it 15 days ago it is "out of stock"
Thank you. I only replaced what's in the video. Think it was just the belt and tensioner.
Hello! I have Peugeot 208 1.2 PureTech 2016. Car have 54.000km and today i look the cambelt from Oil cap. Belt looks like new,no cracks nothing. Maybe you know service interval? One say to me 5years or 175000km. Car is 5years old but belt like new. Should i change it ir its okey to drive until 10years and about 100.000km? ✌️✌️
There's so much on this subject you might be best reading the comments as it's been a big issue and Peugeot might have already changed it as so many were failing.
Note the difference in condition between the wet belt and the dry accessory belt...says it all. Also interesting that they have a chain drive down to the oil pump. Ha! Did you drop the pan and clean the strainer on the oil pick up? It gets clogged with belt debris causing oil pressure failure and engine self destruct.
Your right the strainer should have been cleaned and checked.
Great job! Thank you Coats and Gaiters. "Belt in oil" looks really strange.. PSA experts should have thought about it. They have to use belts those can tolerate heat and oil. Are there any rubber/like belt that can tolerate/resist heat? I dont know the answer of this question? Do you?
Thank you for the compliment Muhammed. I expect the belt can handle the heat and oil but I expect the build of exotic acids etc that build up in used motor oil over time would play there part in breaking the belts down. That's a bit of a guess mind you. When they did the testing trials did they use clean oil of get some old polluted stuff to see how they affects things.
Peugeot must have taken into account that the timing belt can withstand both high heat and oil, something else seems a little strange ? Expect that if you use quality oil and change oil well before the interval change that it goes well ... quality oil and change in good time is probably the key word here ..but off course, timing belts in oil are probably not the best solution..
@@davidbrathen2268 Thats my view as well David. Quality oil changed frequently. I'd probably change every 6k miles.
@@CoatsandGaiters Exceptional informative video. And thanks for your advice of changing oil every 6,000ish miles. I have bought a 2 years old Crossland X and it has engine as same as Peugeot 2008
@@mph122 thank you kindly for the comment and hope it helps you out. Clean oil can only be better for a highly strung engine over dirty polluted oil I think. Take care.
Great videos if a little long winded. I've got my first one to do tomorrow. I'll definitely be ordering a front crank seal to do at the same time!
Thank you for the compliment. Sorry if it was a bit long but I aim my video's at us non mechanics that haven't done the jobs before. All the best.
@@CoatsandGaiters It's very detailed! You could certainly do the job step by step pausing the video along the way.
@@nevets5891 That's the idea, thank you.
yes its a bit long winded but its precise,detailed and accurate , not everyone watching it is a motor mechanic.
Thank you very much for this video! Sorry if it's a basic question, is it just a standard sharpie marker used at 5:55? cheers
No it was a metal marking pen. These are worth a look at amzn.to/3iP4qvP
@@CoatsandGaiters thank you very much for the quick reply! And this is safe to keep in the engine when I reassemble?
@@hayi8957 Yes the paint won't affect anything.
Super video ! very good job !
Where can we find the tool for the water pomp belt ?
Thank you for your comment. There is a specific plastic tool I believe but I never found it online. I did buy the Lisle one and have added a link under my video description. There is also a video showing how to use the Lisle on TH-cam. th-cam.com/video/OEI_06b1F_8/w-d-xo.html. Hope this helps.
Superb video. I have a 1.2 THP130 in a late 2016 (face-lift) C4GP and will keep an eye on the belt through the oil filler hole. Don't do a lot of miles so it would be an age thing. Mind I'm 70 so I'm not sure which is going to last longer me or the belt. 😂
@@tenfootvoyager it's very handy that they did allow for visual inspection through the filler hole. I suspect regular oil changes is the key to it lasting a long time. With a car the oil seems to play such an important role. You sound like a young 70 so I'd put my money on you outliving the car. Take care
Did you not use the locking tool for the flywheel/crankshaft? I worked at Citroen and remember such a procedure for the C-Elysee
Yes, that's probably in Part 1.
Now after 3 cold starts of my Peugeot 208 GT-Line 2017 24.000km and new Timing belt , I hear some more growling sound, tomorrow to the repair garage than they can hear it also and if it is no problem I can sleep well !
Oh dear hope it's ok for you Ron
@@CoatsandGaiters no problem found, and after 30 km driving the growling sound I don't hear, and a very good plan for renew the water pump with 50% refund
God bless you for helping people 👏
Thank you for that. The creators on TH-cam have helped me so much over the years it's nice to give something back.
Oustanding video, thanks you from Guadeloupe. Going to buy the material, and will do that this summer.
One question : I read we need a special tool to put back in place the small belt that train the water put. Did you used a special tool, or succeed without it?
Thank you very much for saying so. I think they were 'stretch' belts for the water pump and there should be a link to the tool below my description. It's just a wedge device to aid the belt back on without damaging it.
Super High Quality, Best regards!
Thank you for saying so
Can you tell me how many Newton meters the screws on the pulley (crankshaft) are tightened with? Thanks in advance :)
Sorry I no longer have the information any more.
Excellent job and video, many thanks
Thank you
What I would like to know is what really happens when the belt fail while is on idle, does the piston bend the valves or not?
I believe so as its an interference engine
Excellente video ,chapeau.
toufik 31 thank you for that.
Have u had any issues with the belt?Thank you for ur video.Belt in oil bath..hmm..should i be scared?
The new belt has been running fine since, but my advice would be to increase the oil and filter changes and use a quality oil. Skipping oil changes to save money might bite back with these belts in oil. Better they run in clean oil with less pollutants than old oil which might carry more pollutants that may degrade the belts materials. Personally I would have mechanical sympathy towards the engine. Racing the engine and getting things super hot can't help with things lasting longer. But thats my personal view only. Thank you for your comment.
Thanks again for this great video, I feel now ready to do it !
About the central screw (at 10:28) of the Crankshaft pignon, you can use the same ? Or you mounted a new one ? (same question for the 3 screw for the pulley)
Theses screws arent sold with the SNR distribution kit I've bought. I've read some people saying you MUST change it, et some people saying they used the same so....
Thanks again for your advices ;D Greeting from Guadeloup
I didn't replace the seal and was very careful not to nip the edge or anything. If you can't get a seal I wouldn't worry too much. The belt is the important bit. I'd check oil level frequently and change every 5,000 miles.
@@CoatsandGaiters I've found a seal, not very expensive, 12 euros, but didn't yet found the central screw of th3 crankshaft pigeon. Seems it'll be better to change it, cause it's a strong thightening.
@@ced777 sorry I mis understood. Yes the crank bolt should be replaced. Any fastener with an angle tighten is torque to yield and must be replaced. I didn’t on this engine but you should.
@@CoatsandGaiters (sorry my English is not perfect 😁) I will change it, at least the central one.
You haven't been afraid it broke when you used the same?
@@ced777 I felt the cam bolts go soft on me which was a very bad sign. Wasn't my car and was asked to just change the belt and nothing else.
Argh! we have just bought a Citroen C3 2013 with this engine and with no history of the timing belt being done am now dreading what's ahead! Think I better try and view the belt though the oil filler cap asap!
Yes might be worth checking things if you can.
@@CoatsandGaiters yes definitely. Thanks
Здравствуйте, видео поучительно, но, вот у меня вопрос, двс EB2PT 1.2 19г Скажите пожалуста как правильно выстовить зажигание? И, пропуски зажигания вчем может быть проблема?
Its all electronically controlled. These engines do suffer a lot if everything isn't spot on. You can go from one issue to another and never seem to solve anything. We sold it on in the end.
hello, I'm fixing a car that is out of phase, the question I ask you is the following:
I should find the phase point of the crankshaft and then block it, so I can install the timing belt correctly so as not to make the engine out of phase, could you give me a tip/suggestion on how to do this?
Thank you.
Sorry but I wouldn’t know the answer to this. I’m only a DIY mechanic.
This Car is launched in Pakistan recently. How soon these go bad? did company find any solution to this. Thanks for the video
I think they have improved the quality of the belts now.
Maybe it's possible to put a chain timing belt instead of the rubber one? Obviously, made and looking the same but from metal?
Oil pump belt is rubber as well I believe.
If you think this is bad, the 3 Cyl 1.2 VW engine form circa 2004 has a problem with sticking exhaust valves and getting the head off is next to impossible without breaking the aluminium cam chain cover. We have rubber seals and plastic cam cover, so a wet belt should, in theory, be achievable with reliability. It is clear the composition of the belt is just not compatible with those conditions. I presume these engines are also interference engines, so WHEN these belts snap or slip, the engine is totally busted?
I winced when you were adding 120 degrees to the dephaser bolts; 120 degrees is probably right for new bolts which haven't yet been stretched. Once stretched, if re-using, maybe much less, perhaps 60 degrees is appropriate?
Thank you for the comment. Haha you winced...I could feel it going soft on me which I why I stopped suddenly, can't remember if I pretended to turn it the full amount or not but I soon stopped when I thought hang on this isn't getting tighter !!!! Like you say you should use new bolts.
@@CoatsandGaiters I think I would use the old bolts as well. Maybe one way is to find out how much torque is needed to move the bolts after the initial "snap" when undoing them then torque them back up to just a tad more than that, or use the feel for how tight the bolts should be knowing how much force you used to undo them.
I used that technique when re-using those bolts which go straight through the K-series engine when replacing a head gasket, and that worked fine. If a bolt starts going limp, then replace it. If one K series engine bolt needed replacement, I'd replace them all for even pressure.
@@nickhill9445 I did a head gasket series on the K series engine. The quality of them seems so much higher than other engines. everything seemed precision made.
Hi,
I’m looking to buy a 1.2 Peugeot 208, which looks clean, but doesn’t have a full service history.
I am no car expert by any means, but my concern is the “wet timing belt”. Is there a way for me to check the condition of the wet timing belt on the car? It’s exactly like the one in your video.
Thank you
You can shine a torch through the oil filler cap and see the belt to some degree.
@@CoatsandGaitersyes and if you push with something soft to the belt at the top from the oil cap you will see the cracks markings better
Thanks for the Video.
Great job!😊
Mfg from germany
Thank you for the thank you. Hope it helped.
Great video, very well explained.
Thank you
Thanks for the video. I have a 308 puretech 82 and now 117000 km and when i look to timing belt it has no crakling. Am i the only one that i don t need to change the timing belt before 100000km ?
Is this reference of timing belt also suitable for the non-turbo version ?
Have you done a lot of oil changes Sofian? as I wonder if regular oil changes and sympathetic driving may play a role in how the belt survives. Not sure on the non turbo I'm afraid.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks for your reply . I bought it in Peugeot's car dealership with some oil changes with 0w30 oil and maintenance. I m cool with driving , I drive the car in the smoothest way possible . I think thanks to that i have a low consumption of 5.5 l/100on highways and roads and 6.0 on city.
@@sofianelmoussaoui2926 they do drive well I found. It wasn't my car but a family members at the time. I did like it and would probably buy one to be honest.
Sofian El moussaoui eppi
Thanks for the upload by the way 👍🏼
Thank you for the comment.
Thanks for your video! The last thing I ask myself is, what direction do you spin the motor when you do it by hand? Clockwise or anticlockwise?
Always in the direction of normal rotation. If I recall it’s clockwise while looking at the pulley. Best check in my video to see which way I rotated it.
Remember to remowe sump and clean out oil pump dip filter, my was cloged with belt rubber
Thank you for adding that. Very good point to consider.
mine too!
Do you think that the belt could be taken out/ inserted without dismantle the two Dephasers? It looks like there is enough space to do it.
I wouldn't like to say as I just follow the manufacturers instructions as it tends to be the safest way.
Brilliant video job done well it has to be said save a lot of hassle buy a toyota yaris or honda jazz
Thank you
Does the locking tool from the 1.6 THP work on this engine? Or is it totally different?
It’s different I’m afraid. I have a link in the description to help show the tools required.
@@CoatsandGaiters thank you
Привіт! Дуже дякую за інформацію!🖖
Thank you 👍 "Hello! Thank you very much for the information! 🖖"
Excellent vid, well shot and informative 👍
Thank you Sir
Why not replace all gaskets that have had broken the seal. Isn't leaving the old ones in inviting for a leak?
It's always better to replace all gaskets but in the case of this car the owner was weighing up his losses already on the car going wrong so early in his ownership. He was pretty frustrated to be spending money on timing belts when he thought he had bought a reliable car.
At 11:10, Don't you need to change the black spi seal of the differential ?
You can do but if your careful I think it can be ok. Logically you would while you have such easy access.
@@CoatsandGaiters Oh yes, sorry, you noticed that at 15:50 :D
And for the screw of the Crankshaft pignon, you can use the same ? Or you mounted a new one ? (same question for the 3 screw for the pulley) Theses screws arent sold with the SNR distribution kit I've bought.
Thanks again for your advices ;D Greeting from Guadeloup !
I have the new 208 from 2021 is the belt better than the old version, THANK YOU
I believe they did improve the quality. The comments often have new advice from mechanics that work for Peugeot in. I think things did get better. The advice is always to change the oil every 6,000 miles as the best preventitive measure.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks you 0w30 oil