One trick I found helpful before I cut any screw with a saw: Thread a nut on that screw! The sawing will mess up the end of the screw thread, and after just using a file alone, it might still be difficult to start the screw. However, then unscrewing the nut over the damaged thread (might require some force) will help to realign the thread. If you want to go one step further, you could use an actuall thread cutter for that purpose, but a nut worked just fine in all the cases I encountered so far. Also, iff you cut something like allthread, you can clamp it by the nuts (add more than one in that case), and thus avoid damaging your thread with the vise jaw.
I had to chamfer a ton for a project that had joining chamfers that had to match. i had a noise restriction and couldn't use a palm router to get the job done. i tried it with just a handplane but getting the joins right meant matching each join specifically and keeping track of that which wasn't gonna happen. so i put a chamfer sled on my hand plane. over 450' of chamfer and 128 chamfer joins that had to match. somehow got it done without losing my mind. this sled is a whole lot nicer than the one i banged together back then. got the kit but haven't actually put it together yet. good video.
Have a look at antique architectural or mechanical drawings and then modern drawings, and you will find the antique drawings are richer, more pleasant to view. The difference is that the older drawings were done with type of technical pen that had to be dipped in ink and the lines vary ever so slightly in width along their length. Perfection is something that machines create; I prefer the grace and elegance provided by chamfers made without jigs and guides. Disclaimer: I am not, and will never be, a high production woodworker.
I don't mind one trick tools when they do things very well: I've got a little round over plane that just puts a 1/8" radius on the edges of wood, which doesn't sound like much, but getting nice radius is not as easy as a chamfer and I find that I like having it around. Doesn't take up much space and I like the finished look I get.
You really are right about the block plane doing the job. I have a rail around my living room that's about 60 feet of pine 1X4. I rounded over the visible edges with block plane with the rail pieces resting on saw horses, lengthwise. The corners match and the round-over is right around 1/4 inch. My wife was satisfied, so the result was more than adequate. She's a hard grader.
I like the auto-limiting feature. If you are working on a project with a lot of the same size/depth chamfers, you won't have to worry about how consistent your finished chamfers are. They should all be pretty much identical.
Rex thanks for doing a review and I will check back with you in 6 months and see if this is getting any use. There are a lot of chamfer plane designs, some old and some new and they always interested me. It was a lot of fun to explore chamfer planes and come up with this design. While chamfer planes are not for everyone or every project, I do think they have a place for some applications and users. When I designed this kit I always thought the holes for the magnets would be done with a 1/2" drill. I was very surprised you had a metric bit! Thanks everyone for your comments.
the idea with a design like this is you can prepare more than 1 set of chamfer angles and have them perfectly repeated on each piece but thats only if you care about precision
Rex, I loved the video, it was fun to watch BUT I love to make champers free hand. I know most people can learn this system quicker than making the specialty tool. As you say, new toys are fun to use.
I completely agree, I use my no 4 for chamfers and if you want a consistent chamfer, which is the selling argument of many of these chamfer planes. Simply count how many strokes you do, if you don't change setting it should be, about the same! I find this is the real advantage about "human speed" tools, it can be done with an auger bit too, if you make a couple of "test" holes in a scrap stock first. Here it is a real advantage using the same set of augers since they will have the same lead screw, which determines how much it pulls per revolution.
I’ve been doing that every time for almost 40 years. But lately, in the past few years due to old man laziness, I’ve been deciding to skip it when it comes to general household repairs. And guess what…. No problems. With something like this or an antique restoration with fine parts, particularly brass screws, I would put a nut to reset the thread.
Just purchased a Compass Rose plane stop. I got tired of rigging things from scrap to do the same job and knew that if I tried to make one it probably wouldn’t be as good. Looking forward to it.
Honestly I like this idea. I'm definitely in the camp where I don't need one, and don't feel any urge to get a chamfer plane as I'm happy to do it by hand...but every now and again I wish I had one for projects with a lot of heavier chamfering or when I just want to do brain off woodworking. And this is nice because it modifies something I already have, so it's not a whole tool waiting around to be used every eight months, it's only like...a third of one.
I have one of those fancy single-purpose planes. It's great fun to use, but it's actually impractical to use on a big job because there is no repeatability built in. You can't just leave it on a full-depth cut because that takes too deep of a bite, so you end up dialing the depth little by little. It works fine for one edge, and you can check how it lines up for mating edges, but is extremely difficult to carry that depth to a second part. You caught the really cool thing about this sled design, which is that the plane's sole handles all of this for you, taking of only small shavings and then preventing you from cutting past the stopping point. I'm sure I'll end up making one of these at some point, but I'm a nerd so will probably 3d print it.
Admittedly, I can only see one really good use for this, and thats for really long chamfers that absolutely must be consistent (read my wife will see it and wants it 'perfect'). That being said, I really want to play with that kit!
To keep the threads on your screws easily either use a bolt cutter on your wire stripper or thread a nut on all the way back. When you unscrew the bolt... the threads get nice and reformed.
Another screw thread trick a machinist showed me. I have an old machinist vise with double lead threads, some areas with damage. The screw passes through a collar or tube. He showed me to get the damaged portion inside the collar, then tap on the collar with a handle. Turn a little more, tap again; repeat as needed. He couldn't find his hammer, so he demonstrated with the handle of an adjustable wrench. I went home and finished the job, and it has worked smoothly ever since.
I have found that chamfering free-hand with a plane is easy enough to do with fair accuracy. Except this one time I was making a shelf from red oak and even when adjusted for a light shaving, the chamfers very much wanted to split and tear. It came out fine and I am being very critical here because for chamfers to look right, you need to work to 1/64" accuracy or better.
Well it makes sense if you are doing a bulk order and you have to be consistent in every regard, and having a quick tool to change out to to do that one edge 100 times in one day(hyperbole I know)
I suggest you first screw a nut down to beyond where you're gonna cut a machine off. Then when you're done cutting, removing that nut will "chase" the threads back into order at the cut. You can still file it to make it pretty if must but once you remove that nut to clean up the threads the screw should work fine from there out.
I'll keep my No 72 with beading and fluting cutters. It's "more than one thing" because the alternate cutters make fast work of anything not a simple, flat cut. I understand that these aren't made any longer, so if someone wants something like that, well, you're not going to find it (maybe on eBay). I'll pass on this jig to turn a block plane into chamfer; too much work to make a jig that creates---a plane that does one thing.
the hobby woodworker in me says I can do a chamfer with a hand plane no problem ... the OCD engineer and part time machinist in me says "they have to be perfectly semantical on every corner" so I would be more susceptible to a chamfer plane (except I haven't used one in the decades of woodworking so why start now)
I was thinking I could just go to the hardware store (or Borg) and buy parts to make this guide. They wouldn't be nice brass but they would work. But, 18 bucks isn't a bad price. I have shortened bolts before and, as you say, it isn't hard. If someone doesn't want to do that, couldn't you just make your spacers thicker? Would it matter?
I have a question am about to get ready for retirement and don't have much money to do what I want to do would love to know what I need to get started even if it is harbor freight
Will you be using it still after six months, probably, if you don't bury it in the back corner of the bottom draver. That always does the trick for my new gadgets, be it in shop, kitchen, study, living room... every time I find them in pristine condition, after five to twenty years.😅
I still prefer do it without the jig, and if I ever need an accurate chamfer, I will probably just cut a pice of wood to 45 degree and hold it together within my blocks plane...
Just make sure your blade is super sharp and you firmly present the blade to both sides of the workpiece to be cut BEFORE you begin going at it, to prevent blowing out the exit point. Also you’ll want the blade set at and angle rather than heading flat through the cut. You’d probably be better off chamfering end grain with a file or sanding board. Not as crisp, but less risky.
One extra point I would like to bring up is that if you are the kind of person who needs to buy a kit to make chamfers and use a bunch of advanced woodworking skills to make the tool, why not just learn how to properly chamfer normally? I know you brought that point up originally, but I just can't see the point other than consistency? maybe.. its a clever little gadget but seems like a lot of work for not that much gain
I think consistency is the point, specially for longer and wider pieces that would take a bigger and more visible chamfer. honestly, also speed. Irrelevant if you're just making a few pieces for friends or family, but if you're selling in volume, a thing that you can just grab and go to town consistently is faster than relying on muscle control and memory on every board
You start off saying that you "hate tools that only do one thing." Guess that's why you purchased that red chamfer plane that not only creates chamfers, but also may be used as a level... Heh, heh, heh.
I don't understand the purpose of the kit here. I mean, it's not so expensive as to be completely useless, but also the magnets are all you really need. the stops can just be wood glued down. The adjustablity is nice, but I'd be a lot happier to pay $5 more for some nylon skids already cut with the 45. If I have to make them anyway, in the time it takes to set the inserts, I'd just make a set of guides for different depths of cut and never have to fiddle with an adjustment.
I doubt he makes a lot of money selling these sets - it is quite easy to build even without that set and the customers it is adressed to are familiar with DIY-stuff.
You have about 20 block planes, but you don't want one chamfer plane for a specific job ??? There are plenty of tools that serve one purpose only, like a corner chisel. Yes, you can do a crisp corner with a regular chisel, but if you can make it easier, with an inexpensive tool, then why not ?
I kinda understand not liking 'gadgets' which do only one thing (just curious, what else do you do with a hammer? Or a saw?) but I think having 20+ of essentially the same tool is a bigger problem...
I adjust planes, bend small pieces of hardware, strike punches, drive out pins, and remove the set from over-set handsaws. (not being a smart-ass; you asked.)
True. That was my first thought, but if you need to do a high volume consistently it would be very helpful. I'm not a purist, so probably would cheat and use a power tool to make the guides, or get my friend to 3d print some.
you could just rough it up free hand and true it up with sand paper. or start with a wide piece, saw and clea it up. Or use a little creativity in modifying a shooting board temporarily. Or indeed, you take your time doing two really well real slow, so that you can be less methodical when making chamfers on actual work pieces. Many poisons, pick your preferred one
A very complex piece of unnesseritionality. Next time you find someone who with a microscope measuring your chamfers give them a carefully aimed chamfer boot . Perfection is an unachievable non existent concept. There is actually no need for two P words in any language perfect... And.... permanent...... Trying to achieve them is a destructive form of pressure that no one needs. Just enjoy the vaguaries of creative art and enjoy you're craft
Usually I am a fan of anything you promote. However in this case I am not. The price for the kit you promote is $67 or so and only includes the two bronze fittings and four screws. It doesn't even include the magnets. I am certain I can cobble up this system from parts already in my shop for little or nothing. Sorry Rex but it's thumbs down for this one.👎👎 Still thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
The wrong kit got linked, this one is $18, but even then, I don't really see the point of the kit. just gluing the stops down will do the job just as well, or there are plenty of ways to make it adjustable with general hardware. Kit would be a much better value at $25 with two pieces of nylon strip with the 45 already cut included.
Thank you for the update. $28 is a much better price but I think still a bit pricey even though all the parts are included. I see that the rails can be purchased also but they are $18 for a couple of pieces of cherry.
One trick I found helpful before I cut any screw with a saw: Thread a nut on that screw! The sawing will mess up the end of the screw thread, and after just using a file alone, it might still be difficult to start the screw. However, then unscrewing the nut over the damaged thread (might require some force) will help to realign the thread. If you want to go one step further, you could use an actuall thread cutter for that purpose, but a nut worked just fine in all the cases I encountered so far. Also, iff you cut something like allthread, you can clamp it by the nuts (add more than one in that case), and thus avoid damaging your thread with the vise jaw.
that allthread tip is going in my brain.
This is the way.
Nice tips, thanks.
I had to chamfer a ton for a project that had joining chamfers that had to match. i had a noise restriction and couldn't use a palm router to get the job done. i tried it with just a handplane but getting the joins right meant matching each join specifically and keeping track of that which wasn't gonna happen. so i put a chamfer sled on my hand plane. over 450' of chamfer and 128 chamfer joins that had to match. somehow got it done without losing my mind. this sled is a whole lot nicer than the one i banged together back then. got the kit but haven't actually put it together yet. good video.
I love your comments on woodworking projects being a new opportunity to feel stupid. I’m not alone!
Have a look at antique architectural or mechanical drawings and then modern drawings, and you will find the antique drawings are richer, more pleasant to view. The difference is that the older drawings were done with type of technical pen that had to be dipped in ink and the lines vary ever so slightly in width along their length. Perfection is something that machines create; I prefer the grace and elegance provided by chamfers made without jigs and guides. Disclaimer: I am not, and will never be, a high production woodworker.
I don't mind one trick tools when they do things very well: I've got a little round over plane that just puts a 1/8" radius on the edges of wood, which doesn't sound like much, but getting nice radius is not as easy as a chamfer and I find that I like having it around. Doesn't take up much space and I like the finished look I get.
You really are right about the block plane doing the job. I have a rail around my living room that's about 60 feet of pine 1X4. I rounded over the visible edges with block plane with the rail pieces resting on saw horses, lengthwise. The corners match and the round-over is right around 1/4 inch. My wife was satisfied, so the result was more than adequate. She's a hard grader.
I like the auto-limiting feature. If you are working on a project with a lot of the same size/depth chamfers, you won't have to worry about how consistent your finished chamfers are. They should all be pretty much identical.
Just bought an old wooden box chamfer plane. Easy to set the depth and works a treat. Very happy with it. Cost @$12 delivered.
Rex thanks for doing a review and I will check back with you in 6 months and see if this is getting any use. There are a lot of chamfer plane designs, some old and some new and they always interested me. It was a lot of fun to explore chamfer planes and come up with this design. While chamfer planes are not for everyone or every project, I do think they have a place for some applications and users. When I designed this kit I always thought the holes for the magnets would be done with a 1/2" drill. I was very surprised you had a metric bit! Thanks everyone for your comments.
the idea with a design like this is you can prepare more than 1 set of chamfer angles and have them perfectly repeated on each piece but thats only if you care about precision
Jeff is amazing. I love his innovations to make hand tools fun and customizable.
Rex, I loved the video, it was fun to watch BUT I love to make champers free hand. I know most people can learn this system quicker than making the specialty tool. As you say, new toys are fun to use.
I completely agree, I use my no 4 for chamfers and if you want a consistent chamfer, which is the selling argument of many of these chamfer planes. Simply count how many strokes you do, if you don't change setting it should be, about the same!
I find this is the real advantage about "human speed" tools, it can be done with an auger bit too, if you make a couple of "test" holes in a scrap stock first. Here it is a real advantage using the same set of augers since they will have the same lead screw, which determines how much it pulls per revolution.
Spin a nut on the screw before you cut it. Taking the nut off clears the burr from the screw
I’ve been doing that every time for almost 40 years. But lately, in the past few years due to old man laziness, I’ve been deciding to skip it when it comes to general household repairs. And guess what…. No problems. With something like this or an antique restoration with fine parts, particularly brass screws, I would put a nut to reset the thread.
Yeah but the screw won’t be clear 😢
Just purchased a Compass Rose plane stop. I got tired of rigging things from scrap to do the same job and knew that if I tried to make one it probably wouldn’t be as good. Looking forward to it.
Thank you!
Honestly I like this idea.
I'm definitely in the camp where I don't need one, and don't feel any urge to get a chamfer plane as I'm happy to do it by hand...but every now and again I wish I had one for projects with a lot of heavier chamfering or when I just want to do brain off woodworking.
And this is nice because it modifies something I already have, so it's not a whole tool waiting around to be used every eight months, it's only like...a third of one.
Rex, thanks for the video! I bought this kit a couple of weeks ago & have not tackled it yet. This video has the details I need.
I have one of those fancy single-purpose planes. It's great fun to use, but it's actually impractical to use on a big job because there is no repeatability built in. You can't just leave it on a full-depth cut because that takes too deep of a bite, so you end up dialing the depth little by little. It works fine for one edge, and you can check how it lines up for mating edges, but is extremely difficult to carry that depth to a second part. You caught the really cool thing about this sled design, which is that the plane's sole handles all of this for you, taking of only small shavings and then preventing you from cutting past the stopping point. I'm sure I'll end up making one of these at some point, but I'm a nerd so will probably 3d print it.
Thanks Rex, entertaining content, and honest assessment, I really appreciate you making the mistakes on our behalf !
Admittedly, I can only see one really good use for this, and thats for really long chamfers that absolutely must be consistent (read my wife will see it and wants it 'perfect'). That being said, I really want to play with that kit!
To keep the threads on your screws easily either use a bolt cutter on your wire stripper or thread a nut on all the way back. When you unscrew the bolt... the threads get nice and reformed.
Another screw thread trick a machinist showed me. I have an old machinist vise with double lead threads, some areas with damage. The screw passes through a collar or tube. He showed me to get the damaged portion inside the collar, then tap on the collar with a handle. Turn a little more, tap again; repeat as needed. He couldn't find his hammer, so he demonstrated with the handle of an adjustable wrench. I went home and finished the job, and it has worked smoothly ever since.
I'm one of you patrons and love your videos. Keep them coming!
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Good for consistency. Also i imagine you could create different rails for a range of other angles, if you need them.
Excellent work, Rex! 😊
But that's why you're never going to have a big collection like James'. 🤨
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I have found that chamfering free-hand with a plane is easy enough to do with fair accuracy. Except this one time I was making a shelf from red oak and even when adjusted for a light shaving, the chamfers very much wanted to split and tear. It came out fine and I am being very critical here because for chamfers to look right, you need to work to 1/64" accuracy or better.
😊 that's simply super to promote a good product of competitions for the quality of that kit and your
heart
Well it makes sense if you are doing a bulk order and you have to be consistent in every regard, and having a quick tool to change out to to do that one edge 100 times in one day(hyperbole I know)
Nice one Rex.
Good review, thanks for doing it.
My pleasure!
I suggest you first screw a nut down to beyond where you're gonna cut a machine off. Then when you're done cutting, removing that nut will "chase" the threads back into order at the cut. You can still file it to make it pretty if must but once you remove that nut to clean up the threads the screw should work fine from there out.
I'll keep my No 72 with beading and fluting cutters. It's "more than one thing" because the alternate cutters make fast work of anything not a simple, flat cut. I understand that these aren't made any longer, so if someone wants something like that, well, you're not going to find it (maybe on eBay). I'll pass on this jig to turn a block plane into chamfer; too much work to make a jig that creates---a plane that does one thing.
the hobby woodworker in me says I can do a chamfer with a hand plane no problem ... the OCD engineer and part time machinist in me says "they have to be perfectly semantical on every corner" so I would be more susceptible to a chamfer plane (except I haven't used one in the decades of woodworking so why start now)
Thanks.
your link is wrong. it's for another $59 plane kit, not the chamfer plane kit in the video which is $18.
thanks
Ok. At the end there, is that a mobile clamp stand? What kind of weight do you have on it?
I was thinking I could just go to the hardware store (or Borg) and buy parts to make this guide. They wouldn't be nice brass but they would work. But, 18 bucks isn't a bad price.
I have shortened bolts before and, as you say, it isn't hard. If someone doesn't want to do that, couldn't you just make your spacers thicker? Would it matter?
It is interesting. I don't do enough chamfers to bother with it.
new to all this- have watched a ton of your videos (thank you!) Why is a chamfer plane unnecessary - but a chamfer plane kit cool?
Planely. Whats a whatnow plane now? Shampoo?
I think I’ll stick with a regular plane and practice.
description spelling nit: `This kit will transform a common bock plane into a specialty tool.` bock -> block ;)
I have a question am about to get ready for retirement and don't have much money to do what I want to do would love to know what I need to get started even if it is harbor freight
Will you be using it still after six months, probably, if you don't bury it in the back corner of the bottom draver. That always does the trick for my new gadgets, be it in shop, kitchen, study, living room... every time I find them in pristine condition, after five to twenty years.😅
Stupidity is a side effect of getting the glue out. I find this also happens with finishing. 😊
The biggest question is: what for you need that tool?
I still prefer do it without the jig, and if I ever need an accurate chamfer, I will probably just cut a pice of wood to 45 degree and hold it together within my blocks plane...
@1:55 for the first step, you have to *own* 20 block planes... lol
So, you have to cut a chamfor on a hand plane to have someone else use that to make you a chamfering plane? Got it!
What about chamfer on end grain?
Just make sure your blade is super sharp and you firmly present the blade to both sides of the workpiece to be cut BEFORE you begin going at it, to prevent blowing out the exit point. Also you’ll want the blade set at and angle rather than heading flat through the cut. You’d probably be better off chamfering end grain with a file or sanding board. Not as crisp, but less risky.
One extra point I would like to bring up is that if you are the kind of person who needs to buy a kit to make chamfers and use a bunch of advanced woodworking skills to make the tool, why not just learn how to properly chamfer normally? I know you brought that point up originally, but I just can't see the point other than consistency? maybe.. its a clever little gadget but seems like a lot of work for not that much gain
I think consistency is the point, specially for longer and wider pieces that would take a bigger and more visible chamfer. honestly, also speed. Irrelevant if you're just making a few pieces for friends or family, but if you're selling in volume, a thing that you can just grab and go to town consistently is faster than relying on muscle control and memory on every board
You're the woodworking version of Alton Brown.
You start off saying that you "hate tools that only do one thing." Guess that's why you purchased that red chamfer plane that not only creates chamfers, but also may be used as a level... Heh, heh, heh.
probaly usefull if you do the same job a gazilion times and need very consistent work without thinking
Every project is an opportunity to f*ck things up.
I don't understand the purpose of the kit here. I mean, it's not so expensive as to be completely useless, but also the magnets are all you really need. the stops can just be wood glued down. The adjustablity is nice, but I'd be a lot happier to pay $5 more for some nylon skids already cut with the 45. If I have to make them anyway, in the time it takes to set the inserts, I'd just make a set of guides for different depths of cut and never have to fiddle with an adjustment.
I like gizmos AND doodads
Rex doesn't want to buy a single purpose plane, but for som reason needs 20 planes that all do the same things....
You hand make a chamfer quite quite quickly to make a chamfer tool? I'm not convinced it's worth over £60, this is as polite as I can be too, about it
1:56 Only ten more?
in fact it takes less time to learn the skill than making the jig
I doubt he makes a lot of money selling these sets - it is quite easy to build even without that set and the customers it is adressed to are familiar with DIY-stuff.
I thought that was a good idea but I found out that my block plane was not ferromagnetic 🙁
Send them to me
But does anyone need a block plane?
You have about 20 block planes, but you don't want one chamfer plane for a specific job ??? There are plenty of tools that serve one purpose only, like a corner chisel. Yes, you can do a crisp corner with a regular chisel, but if you can make it easier, with an inexpensive tool, then why not ?
3:15
It’s a commercial
I kinda understand not liking 'gadgets' which do only one thing (just curious, what else do you do with a hammer? Or a saw?) but I think having 20+ of essentially the same tool is a bigger problem...
I adjust planes, bend small pieces of hardware, strike punches, drive out pins, and remove the set from over-set handsaws. (not being a smart-ass; you asked.)
So basically you need to create a chamfer freehand in order to make the tool...
True. That was my first thought, but if you need to do a high volume consistently it would be very helpful. I'm not a purist, so probably would cheat and use a power tool to make the guides, or get my friend to 3d print some.
you could just rough it up free hand and true it up with sand paper. or start with a wide piece, saw and clea it up. Or use a little creativity in modifying a shooting board temporarily. Or indeed, you take your time doing two really well real slow, so that you can be less methodical when making chamfers on actual work pieces. Many poisons, pick your preferred one
soooo... you need to learn how to chamfer before to make your chamfer plane? 🤣🤣🤣
A very complex piece of unnesseritionality. Next time you find someone who with a microscope measuring your chamfers give them a carefully aimed chamfer boot . Perfection is an unachievable non existent concept.
There is actually no need for two P words in any language
perfect... And.... permanent......
Trying to achieve them is a destructive form of pressure that no one needs.
Just enjoy the vaguaries of creative art and enjoy you're craft
You can lose 10 of anything if you put them in the same place. Thats your punishment for getting organizedish
Usually I am a fan of anything you promote. However in this case I am not. The price for the kit you promote is $67 or so and only includes the two bronze fittings and four screws. It doesn't even include the magnets. I am certain I can cobble up this system from parts already in my shop for little or nothing. Sorry Rex but it's thumbs down for this one.👎👎 Still thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
He accidently linked the wrong kit. Its the REED Chamfer Plane Sled Kit and its 28 bucks for the hardware in the video.
The wrong kit got linked, this one is $18, but even then, I don't really see the point of the kit. just gluing the stops down will do the job just as well, or there are plenty of ways to make it adjustable with general hardware. Kit would be a much better value at $25 with two pieces of nylon strip with the 45 already cut included.
Thank you for the update. $28 is a much better price but I think still a bit pricey even though all the parts are included. I see that the rails can be purchased also but they are $18 for a couple of pieces of cherry.
Ngl I thought he was going to say the n word 😂 at the beginning
3:15