Hey, I like the addition of your second camera for explaining this. Also, I appreciate you debunking all the "experts." It's great to see the technique. Really good instruction.
M.S. Bickford’s “Mouldings in Practice” has a lot of great information; glad to hear you mention it. I’ve been a traditional carpenter/joiner for 22 years now and use rabbet and shoulder planes quite frequently. Some hollows and rounds added in and a lot of general molding and joinery work is well within reach of most. I find most would suffer from not knowing how to tune their irons and bodies, how to sharpen, and how to control the edge with confidence and attention to what is happening at a minuscule scale at the cutting edge as well as attention to grain direction in both orientations regarding corner work. Thank you for putting out great, accessible and accurate information and putting up with uninformed nonsense from critics.
The second tool I ever made was a Paul Sellers poor man's rabbet plane out of some 2x4 and a chisel, and it's still my favorite rabbet plane to use, even over my cast-iron Stanley knockoff.
i learned pretty much the same procedure, but when rabbetting along the grain i was taught to have my skew set super light and my straight set heavier. establish the rabbit with the skew the same way you did in the video, then swap to the straight to hog it out, then back to the skew for the last couple passes to accurately come to depth. for across the grain i was taught to scribe the line fairly deeply then chip it out with a chisel, same as a regular knife wall with a saw. then use the skew at an angle slowing registering it straight. go back as needed with the knife to deal with the fibers in the corner of the rebate that are left due to the lack of a nicker. i don't think i ever changed those planes once they were set up, at least until i had to sharpen them, but they went right back to the same setting pretty much. if i were a handtool only guy still i'd probably just have a few sharpened and ready to go so i could batch my sharpening and setup. i hate having to stop and sharpen and resetup those planes in the middle of a project and those things are dirt cheap. we also made fences set for the two most common rabbets. we drilled two holes into our planes and fences and just slapped them on with bolts and wingnuts. when you are knocking out 20 odd rabbets, having the fence makes things very fast and less error prone. a box cutter blade screwed to the side of the plane with a washer makes for a servicable nicker in a pinch too if you're doing pretty shallow rabbets. just snap off the thick part at the top of the blade, then snap the blade in half. that gives a blade and a replacement for when it gets dull.
Hi Rex! I want to thank you for your videos about Planes and Low benches. Thanks to your educational videos I am currently building my own Lowbench, with mostly handtools and mediocre skill :D
I find it easier to start the rabbets using a deep marking marking gauge line, and then tilting the plane so that only the corner is riding in that line (cutting a triangular "dado"). Just a few passes, enough to seat the plane, then I gradually lower the angle until it's back to being a square rabbet shape and I can size it from there. If the dimension is super important I would use this technique with a smaller rabbet and then go back and increase the depth of it by flipping the plane around and going the other way against the vertical side.
Probably not in practice. The rebate/rabbit plane is generally used on rip cuts. It works on crosscuts, but if you consider that the majority of your saw cuts that you'll be doing that require a knife wall shoulder will be on the edge of a board. In other words, you'll only be severing the depth of the board. That would make it quite unstable for the plane to balance on. Furthermore, you're probably going to be using a chisel at some point in the joint process, so you'll have that out already. If it's a tenon you're cutting then you might have a shoulder plane to hand for fitting, so I guess you could try that. But chisel all the way for me!
I found the rebate to be a surprisingly tricky joint to get right. I have one of those European fillister planes (which I found for about 10.-, they're quite common in Switzerland), but I sharpened the blade incorrectly and it didn't stick out the side of the plane (so no square rabbits). I also had a few rabbit planes, but in Europe they almost never have a skewed blade. However, they sometimes have a cap iron. I also got a WS78 Stanley style plane from England, but it was a bit fiddly... In the end, my best plane for this joint is a Swiss Lachapelle fillister plane, similar to your ECE. With the nicker and skewed blade, as well as depth and width stops it is very precise and leaves a clean joint. The W78 lives in my tool box without the fences and stops and is my go-to plane changing an existing rabbit. The circular nicker is a bit useless though compared to the Swiss plane. A technique I've been experimenting with is using my Record 050 plough plane for starting a rebate: it usually has a small blade for grooves. I set it to cut along my gauge line for the rabbit to start my cut. With this done, I grab the W78 (without any stops or fences) and freehand the rest of the joint. The other tools to mention are my router plane that can perfect a rabbit's depth.
There's always a tradeoff between using complex or power tools and having the skill to do the job without filling my basement with noise and sawdust. I can make much better cuts with my table saw than I can with a handsaw. I am impressed with your skill with a rabbet plane but I have a complete $10 Stanley fillister plane that I get great results with. Paul Sellers makes it all look so easy but he has developed skills over a lifetime. I did chemistry and computer programming. I enjoy woodworking and am improving my hand tool skills. As time goes on I use hand tools more and more. But sometimes it is important to build the project well and on time so I take advantage of the skills of those at Beaver who designed and made my table saw and those at Stanley who made my fillister plane..
Depending on the size of the rebate and the value of the wood you are working, turning it to shavings may be less beneficial than sawing it out to get a little stick of said wood.
As an alternative, can't a ruler or another type of object be clamped as a fence to the opposite side of the rabbet? This way the rabbet plane would be riding against that fence? Now watch Rex prove me wrong. LOL
Yes, it can, but it can be very awkward, because generally you run the plane across the edge of the board, which will generally be quite thin. There's not much space to clamp a straight edge.
One thing that always bugs me about the "just go to an antique store" comments is that it's just not true out west. California was mostly settled after WWII, and while we can find Stanley #5s all day, finding anything else is a real hunt. I live in San Diego, and I can't find anything except at events that cater to us and have antiques that are pricier than Veritas. Craziness.
Forgive me, but the drawer front rabbet you mention in the beginning of the video wasn't demonstrated in this video. Since that one is cut across the grain, You would need some way to deal with the cross grain interference, right? That is what the spur does on a moving fillister plane, right? Without one, how would you use a more simple rabbet plane? How do you deal with uncooperative wood grain? Sorry if I am being annoying, I just dont know how the approach these situations. I might be tempted to cut across the grain with a saw and then plane off the waste...or set up a fence with a clamp on the wood I was cutting a rabbet in, but is that stupid? I still have no idea on how to deal with rabbets cut against the grain....
@@jerbear7952 Languages evolve. This is how we get new ones. Perhaps the internet will slow it down, but I think we need group ID, if only to (more or less secretly) disparage "those people", who can't even speak correctly :D -Yeah, people tend to be low-key nasty to "the others". We can (and should) work against it, but it seems built in. I'm a Dane, and the Danish, Swedish and Norwegian languages are quite similar. We feud about this constantly, but we have other things that keep us together :)
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey, I like the addition of your second camera for explaining this. Also, I appreciate you debunking all the "experts." It's great to see the technique. Really good instruction.
It almost seems like those old people knew what they were doing... -again! :) Thanks for the lesson :)
M.S. Bickford’s “Mouldings in Practice” has a lot of great information; glad to hear you mention it. I’ve been a traditional carpenter/joiner for 22 years now and use rabbet and shoulder planes quite frequently. Some hollows and rounds added in and a lot of general molding and joinery work is well within reach of most.
I find most would suffer from not knowing how to tune their irons and bodies, how to sharpen, and how to control the edge with confidence and attention to what is happening at a minuscule scale at the cutting edge as well as attention to grain direction in both orientations regarding corner work.
Thank you for putting out great, accessible and accurate information and putting up with uninformed nonsense from critics.
My friend lent me his copy - great read. Beautifully explains what initially seems pretty complicated
The second tool I ever made was a Paul Sellers poor man's rabbet plane out of some 2x4 and a chisel, and it's still my favorite rabbet plane to use, even over my cast-iron Stanley knockoff.
Rex I just want to appreciate how you include mistakes, things not going right, as well as the thinking & process behind correcting course.
i learned pretty much the same procedure, but when rabbetting along the grain i was taught to have my skew set super light and my straight set heavier. establish the rabbit with the skew the same way you did in the video, then swap to the straight to hog it out, then back to the skew for the last couple passes to accurately come to depth. for across the grain i was taught to scribe the line fairly deeply then chip it out with a chisel, same as a regular knife wall with a saw. then use the skew at an angle slowing registering it straight. go back as needed with the knife to deal with the fibers in the corner of the rebate that are left due to the lack of a nicker. i don't think i ever changed those planes once they were set up, at least until i had to sharpen them, but they went right back to the same setting pretty much. if i were a handtool only guy still i'd probably just have a few sharpened and ready to go so i could batch my sharpening and setup. i hate having to stop and sharpen and resetup those planes in the middle of a project and those things are dirt cheap.
we also made fences set for the two most common rabbets. we drilled two holes into our planes and fences and just slapped them on with bolts and wingnuts. when you are knocking out 20 odd rabbets, having the fence makes things very fast and less error prone. a box cutter blade screwed to the side of the plane with a washer makes for a servicable nicker in a pinch too if you're doing pretty shallow rabbets. just snap off the thick part at the top of the blade, then snap the blade in half. that gives a blade and a replacement for when it gets dull.
What a classic Rex Krueger video, clear, approachable and most importantly a useful skill. I'm gonna keep my eye out for a rebate plane now
I only doo very basic woodworking and only when I need something but I love this channel. Keep up the good work Rex.
Hi Rex! I want to thank you for your videos about Planes and Low benches.
Thanks to your educational videos I am currently building my own Lowbench, with mostly handtools and mediocre skill :D
I find it easier to start the rabbets using a deep marking marking gauge line, and then tilting the plane so that only the corner is riding in that line (cutting a triangular "dado"). Just a few passes, enough to seat the plane, then I gradually lower the angle until it's back to being a square rabbet shape and I can size it from there. If the dimension is super important I would use this technique with a smaller rabbet and then go back and increase the depth of it by flipping the plane around and going the other way against the vertical side.
Elmer Fud ,,, is probably gonna be knocking on your shop door....
Looking for that Silly Wabbit
have you ever done a tour of your toolbox, the one in the background full of chisels? thank for all the content, rex
Thanks, Rex. I have even cut rabbets with my shoulder plane.
Works like magic.
I feel like Roy Underhill must have demonstrated these techniques on his show at some point. The tilt technique looks familiar.
I feel like the tilt start on the rabbit plane would be a great way to make a knife wall for critical saw cuts
Probably not in practice. The rebate/rabbit plane is generally used on rip cuts. It works on crosscuts, but if you consider that the majority of your saw cuts that you'll be doing that require a knife wall shoulder will be on the edge of a board. In other words, you'll only be severing the depth of the board. That would make it quite unstable for the plane to balance on. Furthermore, you're probably going to be using a chisel at some point in the joint process, so you'll have that out already. If it's a tenon you're cutting then you might have a shoulder plane to hand for fitting, so I guess you could try that. But chisel all the way for me!
I have a wooden plane like that by JBPO, the iron is extremely hard Sandvik steel!
Love your down to earth approach.
Thank you!
I found the rebate to be a surprisingly tricky joint to get right.
I have one of those European fillister planes (which I found for about 10.-, they're quite common in Switzerland), but I sharpened the blade incorrectly and it didn't stick out the side of the plane (so no square rabbits).
I also had a few rabbit planes, but in Europe they almost never have a skewed blade. However, they sometimes have a cap iron.
I also got a WS78 Stanley style plane from England, but it was a bit fiddly...
In the end, my best plane for this joint is a Swiss Lachapelle fillister plane, similar to your ECE. With the nicker and skewed blade, as well as depth and width stops it is very precise and leaves a clean joint.
The W78 lives in my tool box without the fences and stops and is my go-to plane changing an existing rabbit. The circular nicker is a bit useless though compared to the Swiss plane.
A technique I've been experimenting with is using my Record 050 plough plane for starting a rebate: it usually has a small blade for grooves. I set it to cut along my gauge line for the rabbit to start my cut. With this done, I grab the W78 (without any stops or fences) and freehand the rest of the joint.
The other tools to mention are my router plane that can perfect a rabbit's depth.
There's always a tradeoff between using complex or power tools and having the skill to do the job without filling my basement with noise and sawdust. I can make much better cuts with my table saw than I can with a handsaw. I am impressed with your skill with a rabbet plane but I have a complete $10 Stanley fillister plane that I get great results with. Paul Sellers makes it all look so easy but he has developed skills over a lifetime. I did chemistry and computer programming.
I enjoy woodworking and am improving my hand tool skills. As time goes on I use hand tools more and more. But sometimes it is important to build the project well and on time so I take advantage of the skills of those at Beaver who designed and made my table saw and those at Stanley who made my fillister plane..
Thanks for a realy informativ video.
Now i know how to use a rabbitplane. Cant wate to try one out. Need a projekt😀
Depending on the size of the rebate and the value of the wood you are working, turning it to shavings may be less beneficial than sawing it out to get a little stick of said wood.
As an alternative, can't a ruler or another type of object be clamped as a fence to the opposite side of the rabbet? This way the rabbet plane would be riding against that fence? Now watch Rex prove me wrong. LOL
Yes, it can, but it can be very awkward, because generally you run the plane across the edge of the board, which will generally be quite thin. There's not much space to clamp a straight edge.
@@ricos1497 I see, I said you were going to prove me wrong. 😀
@@louisd95714 although I get marks off for using the word generally too often!
Awesome!!!
One thing that always bugs me about the "just go to an antique store" comments is that it's just not true out west. California was mostly settled after WWII, and while we can find Stanley #5s all day, finding anything else is a real hunt. I live in San Diego, and I can't find anything except at events that cater to us and have antiques that are pricier than Veritas. Craziness.
I thought all this was common knowledge. I learned techniques like this decades ago on WW forums and email lists.
...If you hit a wooden plane with a steel hammer, again, I am going to scream.
Forgive me, but the drawer front rabbet you mention in the beginning of the video wasn't demonstrated in this video. Since that one is cut across the grain, You would need some way to deal with the cross grain interference, right? That is what the spur does on a moving fillister plane, right? Without one, how would you use a more simple rabbet plane? How do you deal with uncooperative wood grain? Sorry if I am being annoying, I just dont know how the approach these situations. I might be tempted to cut across the grain with a saw and then plane off the waste...or set up a fence with a clamp on the wood I was cutting a rabbet in, but is that stupid? I still have no idea on how to deal with rabbets cut against the grain....
Cutting gauge for the lines, repeat once you have planed to the bottom of the gauge cut.
Common sense isn't that common.
So of course people have made rabbits more complicated than they need to be.
Even without a what?!?! 😮
would it kill you creating a knife wall there, sir?
That's reviting. I mean, rabetting.
no, you cut rebates with a rebate plane (well at least here in the UK.)
It's a shame we stopped talking to each other for all those years. Lots of stuff confused lol
People always say that but if you look at old Record plane boxes, some of them say Rabbet Plane
@@jerbear7952 Languages evolve. This is how we get new ones. Perhaps the internet will slow it down, but I think we need group ID, if only to (more or less secretly) disparage "those people", who can't even speak correctly :D
-Yeah, people tend to be low-key nasty to "the others". We can (and should) work against it, but it seems built in.
I'm a Dane, and the Danish, Swedish and Norwegian languages are quite similar. We feud about this constantly, but we have other things that keep us together :)
@kz.irudimen except the ones in the UK say rebate planes
@@graydanerasmussen4071 like the threat of German invasion, or I suppose Russia has taken over the role of external threat to us Nordics.