Simplest way to lower gunk on the chain and casette is to use proper lube for the environment. Use dry for dry condition and wet for wet. Also, after you apply the lube and run the drive train for a few mins on the stand. Use a high absorbing cloth to wipe the excess lube of the chain. Less is more. Doing this for years, I have virtually no build on the casette and minor build-up on jockey wheels on derailuer. For that, I take the jokeys off twice a season and scrub them clean with relubing the jockey bearings.
I actually just cleaned my chain a few days ago because I decided to switch to a different lube. All I did was wipe the chain down with a microfiber cloth to get the main grime off it, then I saturated a microfiber cloth with acetone based brake cleaner and ran the chain through the cloth a bunch of times. I did this with the chain still on my bike. I then used Rock & Roll Gold lube which cleans and lubes the chain. I applied a huge amount (which the instructions tell you to do) and wiped the chain down until it was almost dry. The R&R Gold really cleaned the chain up nice and it's nice and lubed since the R&R Gold has some wax in it.
I Soak my chain in a jar of cheap petrol for a while, give it a shake let it settle for a while rinse in cheap alcohol remove and let dry then lube as per your preference - The petrol and alcohol can be re used several times, I syphon off the petrol and the alcohol leaving the sludge which can be safely disposed of - I use this method for all parts of my drive train
A good dish soap goes a very long way. That’s the way I clean mine. My chain is going on 8 years old now. Thats why they are used as timing chains on a lot of vehicles and on motorcycles
Thanks for this video Isaac, I learned some new things about the science of cleaning! I use Rock & Roll blue lube as the climate where I live in Australia is mostly pretty dry. Every ride I brush the dust off the chain, cassette, and chain ring, then do a final clean with a rag. Then apply more lube wiping of excess which cleans muck out of the inner parts.
I find xylene works the best. Make sure to have proper PPE and adequate ventilation. I put my chain in a glass jar, shake it up and let it soak for a bit. I've never had a failed quick link.
immersion waxing is by far the cleanest. Just paraffin wax and some lubricant powder like PTFE or WS2. And you need a connex chain link if you want something durable and reusable
@@iskiiwizz536 if you don't keep on top of rewaxing and leave the bike in the rain all the time, it will rust. but don't worry, rust is not the drivetrain's worst enemy. dirt is. also, minor rust will go away on its own, at least on the parts that are exposed to friction
Unless you're pressure washing and aiming perpendicularly at the axle, you won't get any water inside the free hub. It's more likely you'll get it riding in loose mud or very wet conditions. Even then, unless you haven't used any, the water will probably stop at the grease layer
Never clean your chain on the bike. If you want to do it properly it is not faster, it is more annoying with bike getting in the way and you will end up with more lube on things that should not be lubed if you lube it on the bike. Best advice is: buy the tool for chain quick link removal, and clean your chain off the bike
I agree. Heard his point about not reusing quick links. I ride my bike everyday and remove/install my Shimano quick link all the time. Buying a new one everytime would make no sense and is definitely a tactic used by the manufacturers to get us to buy more in my opinion
@@FOTB407I use Sram or Connex links now, on Shimano chains. The Shimano ones I used before were the one you have to bend, and one of them failed on my commuter, it just broke during the ride.
По правильному нужно снимать, цепь, все звёзды и промывать по хорошему. Потому что лично я цепь промываю в ультразвуковой ванне несколько раз, потому что за один раз не вымыть всю грязь из неё. Ролики и звёзды промываю бензином либо очистителем тормозов.
Quick Tip to save on cleaner, put the chain in a sealable plastic bag with just enough cleaner then fill ultrasonic tub with water. Unless you have a plethora of cleaning solution.
Simplest way to lower gunk on the chain and casette is to use proper lube for the environment. Use dry for dry condition and wet for wet. Also, after you apply the lube and run the drive train for a few mins on the stand. Use a high absorbing cloth to wipe the excess lube of the chain. Less is more.
Doing this for years, I have virtually no build on the casette and minor build-up on jockey wheels on derailuer. For that, I take the jokeys off twice a season and scrub them clean with relubing the jockey bearings.
If you are set on having your chain spotless, soak it in gasoline for 10min, rinse then oil.
Using kerosene is nearly as quick, leaves an oily residue, and is not so flammable.
Don't rinse it (or rinse it with some amount of fresh gasoline, not water), then blow dry it. Lubricate dry chain.
Yes I prefer kerosene too.
I actually just cleaned my chain a few days ago because I decided to switch to a different lube. All I did was wipe the chain down with a microfiber cloth to get the main grime off it, then I saturated a microfiber cloth with acetone based brake cleaner and ran the chain through the cloth a bunch of times. I did this with the chain still on my bike. I then used Rock & Roll Gold lube which cleans and lubes the chain. I applied a huge amount (which the instructions tell you to do) and wiped the chain down until it was almost dry. The R&R Gold really cleaned the chain up nice and it's nice and lubed since the R&R Gold has some wax in it.
I Soak my chain in a jar of cheap petrol for a while, give it a shake let it settle for a while rinse in cheap alcohol remove and let dry then lube as per your preference - The petrol and alcohol can be re used several times, I syphon off the petrol and the alcohol leaving the sludge which can be safely disposed of - I use this method for all parts of my drive train
I just tried using a steam cleaner on mine and it's done a great job without alot of scrubbing and detergents. Then just lube it up again.
A good dish soap goes a very long way. That’s the way I clean mine. My chain is going on 8 years old now. Thats why they are used as timing chains on a lot of vehicles and on motorcycles
Great in depth vid, Isaac! Thx 🙏🏽
Thanks for this video Isaac, I learned some new things about the science of cleaning! I use Rock & Roll blue lube as the climate where I live in Australia is mostly pretty dry. Every ride I brush the dust off the chain, cassette, and chain ring, then do a final clean with a rag. Then apply more lube wiping of excess which cleans muck out of the inner parts.
I've always used Gold but I might switch to Blue once I've run out.
I find xylene works the best. Make sure to have proper PPE and adequate ventilation. I put my chain in a glass jar, shake it up and let it soak for a bit. I've never had a failed quick link.
I take the chain and cassette off and clean them in a metal tub or basin .
I just put the chain in bottle with fuel, wash it with brush, dry it. Then install it back on the bike and apply dry lube again.
The best way to keep your drivetrain clean is to not over lubricate it in the first place.
Oil and wipe.
@@chimps4gimpswax and forget
Ultrasonic cleaner is brilliant bought a cheap "jewellery" ultrasonic cleaner in aldi chanin comes out like new after 2-3 cycles
that will take the finish off !
@RT-tn4ry what finish. Never seen a finish on a chain. Other than oil slick and I use standard silver chain.
Would be nice if you focused on waxed chains for MTB, but i guess Peaty’s doesn’t really have chain wax…🤷♂️
I use Squirt wax
immersion waxing is by far the cleanest. Just paraffin wax and some lubricant powder like PTFE or WS2. And you need a connex chain link if you want something durable and reusable
@@JoLe1991 does it rust
@@iskiiwizz536 if you don't keep on top of rewaxing and leave the bike in the rain all the time, it will rust. but don't worry, rust is not the drivetrain's worst enemy. dirt is. also, minor rust will go away on its own, at least on the parts that are exposed to friction
@@JoLe1991 I'm scared that if I go outside (like go get the groceries) , and it rains, and like I dry my chain with a clothe, it will still be rusted
Clean it well and move to hot wax immersion. Much better in all aspects.
Unless you're pressure washing and aiming perpendicularly at the axle, you won't get any water inside the free hub. It's more likely you'll get it riding in loose mud or very wet conditions. Even then, unless you haven't used any, the water will probably stop at the grease layer
If all chains had a master link this would be a non issue. That is the number one reason for not cleaning a drive train.
The hosing isn't such a good idea as it can push debris into and behind seals .
Where the other guy from GMBNT
Who?
Doddy@@dystopiaisutopia
@@PeacefulNomad lol
Foaming engine cleaner and a 3200 psi pressure washer is the fastest way. If you are worried about the pressure, take it all off and soak in gasoline.
Never clean your chain on the bike. If you want to do it properly it is not faster, it is more annoying with bike getting in the way and you will end up with more lube on things that should not be lubed if you lube it on the bike.
Best advice is: buy the tool for chain quick link removal, and clean your chain off the bike
I agree. Heard his point about not reusing quick links. I ride my bike everyday and remove/install my Shimano quick link all the time. Buying a new one everytime would make no sense and is definitely a tactic used by the manufacturers to get us to buy more in my opinion
@@FOTB407I use Sram or Connex links now, on Shimano chains. The Shimano ones I used before were the one you have to bend, and one of them failed on my commuter, it just broke during the ride.
I never clean my chain, just wipe and apply new wax.
Get Rock n Roll Gold lube, then you never have to clean it, simples.
RIP to your grey sweatshirt 😮
По правильному нужно снимать, цепь, все звёзды и промывать по хорошему. Потому что лично я цепь промываю в ультразвуковой ванне несколько раз, потому что за один раз не вымыть всю грязь из неё. Ролики и звёзды промываю бензином либо очистителем тормозов.
Park Tool brushes are really terrible. Muc Off are so much better.
I think you need to clean your drive system more often looking at the state it was in 😂🤣
Just wax your chain and you won't have to do this filthy process
Smoove for life 🤟
But if people did that the chain lube industry would lose millions of dollars and people would lose their jobs.
@@UraniumMilkso would switching from anything to anything else in life. what's your point? waxing is objectively better just hardwr
@@yaishmatheen4274 You have just experienced sarcasm 😀
@@markwherry if that was sarcasm it was quite poorly executed
Has anyone ever tried Bee Wax on their drive trains ?? Is it effective ??
Boston degreaser from the hardware store .
If people let thier chain get like that, they're never gonna clean it anyways....Ha !!
can bet some brainless people who drive car everyday will be complaining how cleaning our bike damages the environment
Hot wax immersion end of story.
Why would you want to clean a SRAM gearset? Just let it destruct so you could get a Shimano.
@@SuzukiKid400 Sram is so much better
Shoutout to the businesses who deep clean valet bikes btw 👌🏻 😂 🤣
Another chain cleaning video lol
Grease on your cousins... When did GMBN move to Alabama?
using 1x8 drive train. never have to clean them, waste of time. just libe and lube til they break and buy a new cheap one. easy.
i ride dh
I'm using ultrasonic for cleaning 🧹😊
You remove your cassette each time you need to clean it so you can put it in an ultrasonic bath??? Seems a bit excessive.
Quick Tip to save on cleaner, put the chain in a sealable plastic bag with just enough cleaner then fill ultrasonic tub with water. Unless you have a plethora of cleaning solution.
@@Myke_Juliet Nice tip, thanks.
Will take the finish off !
Where’s Doddy?
Working for Mondraker now
Pay attention
@@dystopiaisutopia I payed your mother for a blowey.