Here's an outline! SUPPLIES: Bucket Soap - You can find "bike soap" (or car soap), but household dish soap is OK 2x sponges ("clean" & "dirty") -- a "car sponge" works Rag (for cleaning between cassette sprockets / removing excess lubricant from chain) Stiff-bristled brushes: x1 for coating bike with degreaser x1 for getting into derailleur & chain rings (thin & narrow) Flat head screwdriver Degreaser Chain lubricant (wet or dry) WD-40 PREP: Put chain on big ring Put bike on work stand, if available. (If not: when front wheel comes off, rest the bike on the fork blades & brakes, and lean it against a wall. This keeps it cleaner). Fill a bucket with soap & HOT water (hot gets rid of grease & oil better.) Put some degreaser into, e.g., a half-water bottle (put into bike bottle holder) DEGREASE: Brush degreaser "liberally" onto chain. (Some say take chain off -- but Simon doesn't think this gets it cleaner, & doesn't like breaking the chain too many times.) With flathead screwdriver, get gunk off jockey wheels; add more degreaser to jockey wheels & chain rings. CLEAN BIKE W/ GENEROUS SOAP & WATER: Using clean sponge: Starting from handlebars, go "backwards & downwards" (i.e. while degreaser is working on the drive train) Using dirty, then clean sponge: Drive train (adding degreaser if necessary) Using narrow brush: Derailleur & chain rings BE SURE ALL DEGREASER IS OFF -- it will defeat any lubricant put on later! Remove front wheel, then rear wheel. Using clean sponge: clean hidden parts of fork & brake callipers. Tires: outside to in. (Note: dirty side walls make a bike look very dirty.) CASSETTE: Brush on more degreaser. Slip edge of a rag between sprockets; wash w/ dirty sponge. Put wheels back on Rinse bike w/ hose (or w/ fresh bucket & clean sponge). For dirty white bar tape, use WD-40 & rag. TUNE UP: Lubricate chain; wipe off excess w/ rag. Spray WD-40 onto derailleurs & brake calipers. Check brake pads. Check tire for anything sharp wedged in carcass; lever it out w/ flathead; glue big holes shut.
3 hours ago I just wanted to learn how to adjust my front derailleur. Now it's in the best condition since I bought it. Goodbye Sunday! Thank you GCN! Great channel.
he lubed the chain, but not the cassettes do i need to lube my cassette with chain lube as well? or should i just shift through all the gears after applying the lube to the chain?
Two additional hints: 1. use cotton clothesline to floss out your freewheel, and 2. Shoe Goo is brilliant for tire gashes. I once picked up a large bent nail that instantly pierced right through my tire, gouged into my rim, and went ka-bang-ka-bang-ka-bang until I managed to stop. I patched the twice-holed tube, put the holed tire back on over it, and filled the bullet hole with Shoe Goo, just as an experiment to see what would happen till I could get to the bike store. Stuff worked so well I didn't bother to replace the tire. In fact I rode on it for two seasons until the tire died of natural causes. Now I always carry a small tube of the Goo on long trips. Great video! Thanks!
Love your videos. Right to the point, no extraneous information, not a lot of gesturing, pleasant backgrounds, not some cluttered dark basement or garage.
This got my bike looking the cleanest it's been since I bought it nearly four years ago! It did take longer than 30 mins though as I had to degrease the chain several times, nail brushes worked a treat! Thanks very much
I sucked it up, bought degreaser and lube, did it pretty much exactly here, except I didn't have a bike stand. Took me 4 hours because I haven't cleaned my bike since I got it 3 years ago. I'm sure the next time I do it will be much less time. Thank you!
Hi GCN. Thanks for the video :) My technique is a little different from yours: 1) Piece of an old T-shirt works great instead of a sponge. 2) You can use the brush with degreaser to brush the teeth of the crank to remove gunk. Putting the brush in one spot and rotating the crank backwards is the easiest method for me. 3) After the degreaser has soaked in and done it's job, I use the hose set to a pencil shaped beam to spray out the gunk from the chain, cassette, crank and derailleurs. With the chain, I put the hose in one spot and rotate the crank backwards. WRT the cassette, I try to spray only the teeth and not the cassette body to reduce water entry. Wiping everything down afterwards with the soapy T-shirt shows very little gunk left.
I used automotive brake cleaner spray on my cassette, it was amazing, the grease and oil came right off the cassette like it was nothing, leaving it spotless and shiny clean I couldnt believe it. $2 at walmart
Brilliant video except for things and a tip. Firstly, as a car enthusiastic and an owner of two vintage cars, and as someone who cleans said cars himself, I would suggest you stay away from dish washing liquid. That stuff is abrasive and is a degreaser itself. If your bike has clear coat paint, it will strip it right off in time and leave you with a dull looking bike. If you are going to invest in something as expensive as these mid and high end bikes, then you might as well invest in the best cleaning products. This is why I only use car cleaning products - they are designed to protect your paint. Personally I use only Meguiars but there are other brilliant products like Mothers. Also, because of their high quality concentrated nature, you only need to use bits at a time. A single bottle of Shampoo will last you a long time. Its a bit costly but its an investment that protects your other investments. Secondly, ditch the sponge and use Micro Fibre Cloths ...less chance of scratching your bike! And for the tip, go to the auto shop and you will get nice brushes ..originally designed to get between the spokes of car wheels ...they work a treat!
Cheers chaps, just avoided an expensive trip to local bike shop and tons of MucOff goods; used soapy water, degreaser, and wet lube too. Shiny bike now.
Completely agree about not removing chain. Furthermore, I believe using degreaser washes out the oil in the links and bushings, so I never use it. What I do is use chain oil to clean the chain then wipe most of it off. The dirt comes of with the oil leaving an acceptably clean chain
After riding my roadbike (roadbikes in general) for over 3 years now I am finally starting to pay more attention and invest some time to properly set up and clean my bike(s) :-) What I love about the video: the dirty white handlebar tape!!! :D ...I am not the only one...
Top Tip : when you clean your back wheel, cassette : lean away from the hub so no degreaser can get into the hub .... for the rest, I work the same way and works fine !
Best tips as usual, only one who actually did the cleaning hands on instead of bunch of expensive gadgets and machines. Take off the wheels and clean that properly. Thank you Sir! 🙌
There are some really useful tips in this video but I wouldn't spray the brake clipers for fear of contaminating the rims and tyres, I normally apply some oil to a cloth and wipe the calipers. I also use a hosed spray to very gently oil the pivots.
Simon, I didn't think I would ever come across anyone who was more anally-retentive about bike cleanliness as as I am, but in watching this video I just have. Don't worry, that's a good thing! Personally, I lick the degreaser off my rear dérailleur for maximum cleanliness. Actually I don't, but it's maybe worth a try. Great video.
Great video. I'm really worried though about so liberally painting on the degreaser, what about some if that leaking into the hub and bottom bracket and even into the jockey wheel bearings? Or is that needless paranoia?
Generally speaking excellent. A few things I learned. 1) Get your hot soapy water and sponges together before you hit the degreaser because you're going to get that black gunk on you and one's Significant Other might not like you coming inside for those bits with grease monkey hands.... 2) WTF are you doing spraying WD -40 on the brake calipers?! With the wheel in place! Whoa Whoa Whoa! IMHO that is the most insane thing ever. Oil on the pads, oil on the tire? No, just NO. A drop or two of Tri-Flow in the joints is my jam. (But for all I know you did this just to get a reaction - it worked)
You should try the two-bucket method. One for hot soapy water, the other for rinsing your sponge or rag. Otherwise, you are wringing out your dirty sponge in your soapy water and then washing your bike with water that gets dirtier and dirtier as you go.
I used to use just washing up and something similar to WD40. Then 3 years I got for free a small set of brushes, citrus degreaser for the bike and ptfe. I noticed that: 1) The chain was way smoother even on entry level Shimano Sora 2) The chain started wearing out way less. 3) Cables stayed nice, flexible and shiny for longer. 4) STI levers were smoothers. 5) Disks and disk pads stopped making massive noises. Since then I bought a bigger kit to wash the bike and I use only ptfe and lithium grease specific for the bike. The cost per year is roughly 60 to 80 euro and I wash my two bikes either every 100 Km or after any rainy / muddy ride. Unless you live somewhere that is very sunny and warm I'd suggest to dry the bike throughly, especially around the fork, seat tube and axles. If you have access to a air compressor that is by far the best way.
Josh Winn as long as it doesnt touch the Actual rubber or the rim (sorry dont know the exact word for it, i'm German) it won't be a problem, but helps with an easier Breaking.. I do the same, but wash over the breaking component afterwards
There is absolutely no issues with spraying WD40 on the brake calliper as well as any moving mechanical component such as the front and rear derailleur. WD40 is the best multi purpose spray lube on the market always has been always will be. If it works great on door hinges it works fine on bikes.
TomCoppell the good old 40 has to be used right. It is a degreaser, not a lubricant. To get grease off of parts to clean them is alright, as long as after you clean it you put the lubricants needed back on after washing out all the 40, otherwise it impedes the lubricants ability to stick and perform nominal. It does lubricate a little, not nearly as well as the normal stuff. For parts that move that also don't need grease or traditional lubricants, 40 works well. Since it can be used as a lubricant. you should keep it away from any breaking surfaces at all cost. This includes brake pads, and rim with rim brakes, and brake pads again, and the rotor with dick breaks. Never use 40 as a lubricant on the chain, derailleur cassette, chain rings, or anything drivetrain. yes it get rid of the rat noises but ultimately breaks down your drivetrain significantly.
I would council against washing up liquid - it has a very high salt content which will aid rusting process! I suggest car shampoo which has a wax content which will help protect the paintwork whilst getting rid of road dirt and grease.
Nah don't use car shampoo, as you correctly said it's got wax and leaves a light film on what you wash. No good if you're cleaning a bike with disc brakes! Use bike specific stuff.
I have now watched all cleaningvideos so many times, they are by far the best videos. I mean my bike is clean and I know exactly how to do it, I just love clean bikes!
GCN,I have tip for you on cleaning white bar tape. If it is still good, you can uses wesley's white wall tire cleaner and a scrub brush. It works great. It makes it like brand new, pearl white again. just rinse. Give it a try and let me know what you think.
If you can't get enough of cleaning your own bike, for a quarter I can let you wash mine. And this month only, pay just one dollar and get to do 6 cleanings!
To clean bar tape: take a scoup of washing powder and stir it into a cup or two of hot water. I use a scourer to give it a bit of a scrub brings it up almost like new
It takes the same amount of time to clean a "clean" bike and a dirty one... As long as both are properly maintained. I wash my MTB every week. It doesn't go onto trails often these days. But when it does, it will get caked on with everything nature throws at it. That doesn't change at all the time it takes to clean it. Because it's regularly clean, nothing on it gets baked on and stuck. Now if you're talking about some incredibly dirty bike that hasn't been washed for years... That's not cleaning, that's restoring. You cannot clean those bikes. The frame alone will have embedded dirt that can't be washed off. You'll have to use claybars and even machine polish it out. Each piece needs a thorough check and replaced/repaired. I've done this multiple times because I detail my own cars and friends'/families' as a hobby (btw the same rule apply to cars) so when I got into cycling, some friends and families were encouraged to get back into it. But their bikes have been sitting idle for years. So I took them in one by one to be restored back to looking new. Yes, one bike takes a shit load of products, tools and about several hours to do. That's not cleaning.
I live in an apartment building in the city with no backyard. How do I clean my bike here? I can't soup it thouroughly let alone rinse it with water afterward.
Hasse Hardcore I used to wash my bicycle in the shower too. I take my wheels and chain off. Wash the chain in the sink. Give the wheels and cassette a good low pressure wash in the tub. Then put my frame in there with low pressure water and just wash with soap. It works, if anyone is wondering. I did this on a regular basis so scrubbing grease off the floor was not an issue.
I've found Clorox disinfecting wipes do a fantastic job of cleaning up grimy bar tape, and can restore your white bar tape to almost new condition. This doesn't appear to rot out the bar tape either--you'll still get your 8-12 months' use out of a roll.
I clean my car quite regularly and have a lot of decent products for doing so. I was watching this video and trying to see if I'd need any specialist products for a bike. I was quite enjoying the video right up to the point where you sprayed WD40 on the brakes...
Might i add that its also a very good idea to wax your bike regularly. Most bike paints have a clearcoat over em so its safe to wax. Makes getting grease and dirt off the paint a lot easier.
what about the water, how do you dry it off, i'm afraid i might make the bearings in the hub rust or the gears oh and forgot chain? How do you dry the water out correctly I don't want to make my bike rust. Also if i use a hose to wash the soap out, how to i water it so it doesn't get to the bearings and gears(or chain)?
Hi guys! One of the things we don’t mention is once you’re done with washing your bike, all the tools that were used to degrease your chain including brushes go into a bucket of water... next day it still feels sticky so I am wondering what’s the quick way to remove this stubborn grease? Thanks
Yeah this video help. Most of the stuff i dont have like the tools to remove the chain and what not. Rest of the things i can do. So im gonna give it a try that helps.
Every bike cleaning vid I've watched has said something to the effect of "Don't get water in/on the bearings when you're rinsing off", but being a noob, I've really no clue where these preicous bearings are/what the big issue is. Can someone advise? Cheers.
There are bearings in the fork where it pivots, the wheel hubs, and the derailleurs. If water gets into them, it can force out the grease that's in there, which is a problem because they need that grease to rotate smoothly.
Bar tape just use hair shampoo and a soft brush, it is gentle enough, but gets the oil and dirt off. Been riding the same white bar tape for 3 years. Looks like most other people’s tape after their first ride at worst. Wd40 is just going to make the next ride dirtier. You can clean a chain far more localized (on the bike) with some care to prevent degreaser being slapped all over, the dirt from the chain being spread all over and now you’ve removed all lube on the derailleur trapezium. Instead of using degreaser on the cassette and running the risk of getting it into the bearings or freehub, get a long firm bristle brush, lightly oil the bristles with a mineral oil or even baby oil and brush. The oil thins the dirty clogged lube pretty easily and most rinses off with hot water alone, any residue is so minor it won’t affect the lube on the next ride, and mild soap will get it all off if you don’t attend to it regularly enough to ensure no issues. Same with the chainrings. No lubing of the brake return springs? On Shimano for sure you’ll have weak return in a few 1000kms. My bike gets a carnuba wax to prevent grime sticking on the paint next ride, and wd40 on an ear bud in all the hex heads to prevent any mild rust from moisture.
Great videos. I followed the steps completely, and for the most part they were spot on. I did try the brush to the chain with degreaser, but decided to use my PT Chain Cleaner (with spinning brushes and foam squeegie), it does a more thorough job.
I love white bar tape. I use simple green and a small sponge or rag that I can wrap around the bars in my hand. It's pretty much the same approach you take with your chain. As for the tires I use a safety pin and pluck out any unwanted pieces of glass and debris.
Thanks for the great videos. Your presenting, editing and production values are fantastic. One question: towards the end, why does Si spray WD40 on the deraileurs and brake calipers? I thought WD40 was a lubrican, therefore not good for brake surfaces?
B1uenose2009 You certainly don't want to try to get WD40 on brake surfaces, although it actually doesn't seem to matter too much if you do. Brake calipers can seize up though so it's a good idea to look after the pivots on them, and WD40 does that job nicely.
Be careful with dishwashing detergent. Often highly caustic and will dull the painted finish. Best to use a carnuba was car wash liquid. Turps or kerosene on chains etc using a rag. Never use petrol ! I often use ct 18 truck wash. Heavy duty and designed for trucks and if it can remove grime and soot etc without harming paintwork , its great stuff . Cheers
Quick tip - been doing the glue on tyre nicks and cuts for a while now, but I recently happened on what I think is a far better solution in Gorilla Glue 'Super Glue' which is like other super glue's but its got rubber incorporated in it and going by my experience it makes a far better longer lasting repair... oh and you get 2 tubes for the price of one
Very nice video!! By the way I think there are 2 things you could have done better, correct me if I'm wrong. 1) Use Cif for the handle bar tape, it works great 2) Why don't You spray the wd 40 on the mechs and calipers before you install the wheels? I think any oil on tyres or braking surfaces could be bad for your safety
I just use engine degreaser from my local hardware store on my chain and casette etc, it works exactly the same and is much cheaper than the special bike degreasers. Only about a fiver for 500ml. Also it's easy to get your greasy components really shiny by just spraying degreaser on them like a mad man until they are dripping with degreaser. It takes off most of the grease and you don't even need to use a cloth, just rinse it off.
Imho some of the top investments for ANY bike owner,road mountain or commuter, are a decent work stand (doesnt have to be an expensive Park Tools one) and an AIR COMPRESSOR! I wouldn't dare to think of washing my bike like that, then leaving it out to air dry. Even a small one will do,just means you'll have to wait for it to fill a couple of times.Especially for road cyclists, where people dish out thousands just for a few grams less, I think there's no excuse for leaving things to air dry .Even if you're full carbon fiber your bolts rust,your cables rust, your clamps rust.
西山ひより Depending on where you live the time it takes to air dry can lead to rust. That being said you can just take an old towel and dry off the excess water than let it air dry. I never had any problems, but i do live in a very dry place.
I still personally find it better to use the chain lube on the pivot points on deraileurs/calipers/levers/pedals. Also, I service my hubs every three months, just because I had a road bike that lasted six months before the hubs got rusted shitless x3 Great video, have recommended to at least eleven people to watch your channel, and keep making more! Also, do a video of lubes/degreasers/greases to steer away from and ones to use, in terms of performance, quality and longevity. I really, really want to know what you think of certain lubes! I just got some TF2 Lithium grease and want to know if that's decent?
I use power hose and then blow with the air blaster to make it dry super fast. It gets everything off and then I put lubricant to avoid rust or noises.
Really good except for the WD-40 advice. If your bike has ALUMINUM parts the WD-40 will cause the ALUMINUM to oxidize. Oxidize is just a fancy word for RUST. Aluminum rust will not look like Iron rust. However moving ALUMINUM parts can and will FREEZE UP. Basically WD-40 displaces water and can soak into IRON BASED metals. It is not really a lubricant as most people tend to believe. I know I believed that for a very long time. If you use WD-40 on your ALUMINIUM parts, for cleaning, be sure to thoroughly remove it by cleaning and then lightly lubricate with a quality lubricant. WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver.The lubricant-like properties of WD-40 come not from the substance itself, but from dissolving components. And the effect doesn't last.WD-40 can be a good substance to start with - it can help clean up rust or other grime. But depending on what you're working with, you should probably follow up WD-40 with use of a true lubricant such as one based on silicone, grease, Teflon, or graphite. WD-40 can wash dirt into a bike chain, ruining the chain and taking out the gears along with it. Stay away, cyclists.
+Glenn Fannin aluminium corrodes, not rusts. Aluminium is also not ferric unless it is in an alu-iron alloy. But graphite or teflon lubricants are advised
Aluminum can react with oxygen, which is known as oxidizing. aka Aluminum oxide. Much in the same way as iron oxidizes, aka ferric oxide. "Rust" is just a nickname of oxidation almost to the point where it is synonymous so technically he is not wrong in saying that. But neither are you as oxidation is a corrosion mechanism, just usually referred to as oxidation when oxygen is involved.
Actually oxidation doesn't need to directly involve oxygen but you're right. Metal oxides are just called rust since it's easier to understand in common language.
Enjoyed that video, thanks. With some car detailing experience I'm going to be two bucket method, snow foam pre wash, Bilt Hamber Surfex HD for degreaser, might even wax the frame for aerodynamic / I like to caress my bike purposes 😂. Nice to see what I can get wet and soapy and what not to. Thanks
+Jamie Mackereth Totally agree. It should be noted that both are a degreasant so should be used carefully, check the manufacturers web sites, they will therefore remove grease from derailiers and chains.
I found that spraying the white bar tape with degreaser does clean it quite effectively. Especially when it got dirty with grease after replacing a tire.
You should point out that some chain lubes need to be applied to a dry chain. For example: Pro Gold ProLink needs to bond to the bare metal and will turn black if the chain is wet. Check the label.
I used baby wipes instead of old shirt to remove any remaining grease in the cassete. I don't know what kind of magic has in its composition, but it cleans like a charm!
A relatively cheap alternative to washing up liquid is car washing soap -- safer for metal, plastic and CF. You can also find soaps that wax as well which helps keep the frame cleaner.
Here's an outline!
SUPPLIES:
Bucket
Soap - You can find "bike soap" (or car soap), but household dish soap is OK
2x sponges ("clean" & "dirty") -- a "car sponge" works
Rag (for cleaning between cassette sprockets / removing excess lubricant from chain)
Stiff-bristled brushes:
x1 for coating bike with degreaser
x1 for getting into derailleur & chain rings (thin & narrow)
Flat head screwdriver
Degreaser
Chain lubricant (wet or dry)
WD-40
PREP:
Put chain on big ring
Put bike on work stand, if available. (If not: when front wheel comes off, rest the bike on the fork blades & brakes, and lean it against a wall. This keeps it cleaner).
Fill a bucket with soap & HOT water (hot gets rid of grease & oil better.)
Put some degreaser into, e.g., a half-water bottle (put into bike bottle holder)
DEGREASE:
Brush degreaser "liberally" onto chain. (Some say take chain off -- but Simon doesn't think this gets it cleaner, & doesn't like breaking the chain too many times.)
With flathead screwdriver, get gunk off jockey wheels; add more degreaser to jockey wheels & chain rings.
CLEAN BIKE W/ GENEROUS SOAP & WATER:
Using clean sponge: Starting from handlebars, go "backwards & downwards" (i.e. while degreaser is working on the drive train)
Using dirty, then clean sponge: Drive train (adding degreaser if necessary)
Using narrow brush: Derailleur & chain rings
BE SURE ALL DEGREASER IS OFF -- it will defeat any lubricant put on later!
Remove front wheel, then rear wheel. Using clean sponge: clean hidden parts of fork & brake callipers.
Tires: outside to in. (Note: dirty side walls make a bike look very dirty.)
CASSETTE: Brush on more degreaser. Slip edge of a rag between sprockets; wash w/ dirty sponge.
Put wheels back on
Rinse bike w/ hose (or w/ fresh bucket & clean sponge).
For dirty white bar tape, use WD-40 & rag.
TUNE UP:
Lubricate chain; wipe off excess w/ rag.
Spray WD-40 onto derailleurs & brake calipers.
Check brake pads.
Check tire for anything sharp wedged in carcass; lever it out w/ flathead; glue big holes shut.
you need way more recognition thanks
Great, thanks
Thank you captain ! A much needed summary !
Do you have any recommendations on decreasor?
Isn't wd40 a degreaser
3 hours ago I just wanted to learn how to adjust my front derailleur. Now it's in the best condition since I bought it. Goodbye Sunday! Thank you GCN! Great channel.
gay
Literally me
@@outsidethepyramid congrats on coming out.
@@depfeffel6455 lol
@@outsidethepyramid 😉😂
stuff needed
0:20 bucket with soapy (kitchen liquid) hot water and sponge
0:26 degreaser
0:37 brush
1:05 flat head screw driver
1:34 2x sponges
2:52 stiff-bristled brush
5:00 rag
7:17 wet lube
7:34 WD 40
check @Andrew Grandman comment for indepth supplies details
he lubed the chain, but not the cassettes
do i need to lube my cassette with chain lube as well?
or should i just shift through all the gears after applying the lube to the chain?
Two additional hints: 1. use cotton clothesline to floss out your freewheel, and 2. Shoe Goo is brilliant for tire gashes.
I once picked up a large bent nail that instantly pierced right through my tire, gouged into my rim, and went ka-bang-ka-bang-ka-bang until I managed to stop. I patched the twice-holed tube, put the holed tire back on over it, and filled the bullet hole with Shoe Goo, just as an experiment to see what would happen till I could get to the bike store.
Stuff worked so well I didn't bother to replace the tire. In fact I rode on it for two seasons until the tire died of natural causes. Now I always carry a small tube of the Goo on long trips.
Great video! Thanks!
I want a full hour real-time bike clean, 'slow tv' style. Watching someone else clean is so satisfying and relaxing.
Look up ASMR.
@@_rcs no some people don't need people whispering and sexually touching materials near the microphone just a normal video will do!
Love your videos. Right to the point, no extraneous information, not a lot of gesturing, pleasant backgrounds, not some cluttered dark basement or garage.
no expensive tools or gadgets
This got my bike looking the cleanest it's been since I bought it nearly four years ago! It did take longer than 30 mins though as I had to degrease the chain several times, nail brushes worked a treat! Thanks very much
Fill your tub with degreaser, put the bike and then, wait for about 5 minutes. Then, throw it into a lake!
I tried, it worked
Loll
Lol it works
my tub is too small :(
isn’t that pollution
Aside from that last act of W40 on the components and brakes, I loved the rest of the process...
Yeah omg, if you did that with a disc brake, I'm pretty sure it would be screeching forever.
Just because disc is a shitty system. @@jakebailey146
I sucked it up, bought degreaser and lube, did it pretty much exactly here, except I didn't have a bike stand. Took me 4 hours because I haven't cleaned my bike since I got it 3 years ago. I'm sure the next time I do it will be much less time. Thank you!
Hi GCN. Thanks for the video :) My technique is a little different from yours: 1) Piece of an old T-shirt works great instead of a sponge. 2) You can use the brush with degreaser to brush the teeth of the crank to remove gunk. Putting the brush in one spot and rotating the crank backwards is the easiest method for me. 3) After the degreaser has soaked in and done it's job, I use the hose set to a pencil shaped beam to spray out the gunk from the chain, cassette, crank and derailleurs. With the chain, I put the hose in one spot and rotate the crank backwards. WRT the cassette, I try to spray only the teeth and not the cassette body to reduce water entry. Wiping everything down afterwards with the soapy T-shirt shows very little gunk left.
I can't get over how tiny his T-shirt is.
😂😂😂
Just looks outwashed thats all
Isn't that how they do it in France?
Looks like a child’s medium
Thinking 2000s atyle
I used automotive brake cleaner spray on my cassette, it was amazing, the grease and oil came right off the cassette like it was nothing, leaving it spotless and shiny clean I couldnt believe it. $2 at walmart
that is what my bike guy said also; havent used it as it snowed last night
Brilliant video except for things and a tip. Firstly, as a car enthusiastic and an owner of two vintage cars, and as someone who cleans said cars himself, I would suggest you stay away from dish washing liquid. That stuff is abrasive and is a degreaser itself. If your bike has clear coat paint, it will strip it right off in time and leave you with a dull looking bike. If you are going to invest in something as expensive as these mid and high end bikes, then you might as well invest in the best cleaning products. This is why I only use car cleaning products - they are designed to protect your paint. Personally I use only Meguiars but there are other brilliant products like Mothers. Also, because of their high quality concentrated nature, you only need to use bits at a time. A single bottle of Shampoo will last you a long time. Its a bit costly but its an investment that protects your other investments. Secondly, ditch the sponge and use Micro Fibre Cloths ...less chance of scratching your bike! And for the tip, go to the auto shop and you will get nice brushes ..originally designed to get between the spokes of car wheels ...they work a treat!
I don't even have a bike yet, but i'm already motivated to clean it. Thanks! :D
Cheers chaps, just avoided an expensive trip to local bike shop and tons of MucOff goods; used soapy water, degreaser, and wet lube too. Shiny bike now.
All of your videos are helping and making me Interested to watch everyday, even in the morning while drinking coffee!
Thanks Kerr, keep it up!
I'm pretty new to this, but I've found that using 550 cord/para cord works really well on the cassette and other tight spots.
Completely agree about not removing chain. Furthermore, I believe using degreaser washes out the oil in the links and bushings, so I never use it. What I do is use chain oil to clean the chain then wipe most of it off. The dirt comes of with the oil leaving an acceptably clean chain
"Scrubbling Bubbles" works on white bar tape & hoods. I use it all the time.
Good vid! Thnx Simon.
This video is strangely soothing
After riding my roadbike (roadbikes in general) for over 3 years now I am finally starting to pay more attention and invest some time to properly set up and clean my bike(s) :-)
What I love about the video: the dirty white handlebar tape!!! :D ...I am not the only one...
Top Tip : when you clean your back wheel, cassette : lean away from the hub so no degreaser can get into the hub .... for the rest, I work the same way and works fine !
Best tips as usual, only one who actually did the cleaning hands on instead of bunch of expensive gadgets and machines. Take off the wheels and clean that properly. Thank you Sir! 🙌
There are some really useful tips in this video but I wouldn't spray the brake clipers for fear of contaminating the rims and tyres, I normally apply some oil to a cloth and wipe the calipers. I also use a hosed spray to very gently oil the pivots.
A timeless Video in my opinion. I just purchased my first expensive bike ...and this is great for reference
Simon, I didn't think I would ever come across anyone who was more anally-retentive about bike cleanliness as as I am, but in watching this video I just have. Don't worry, that's a good thing! Personally, I lick the degreaser off my rear dérailleur for maximum cleanliness. Actually I don't, but it's maybe worth a try. Great video.
This is honestly one of the best channels on TH-cam! These vids are invaluable :)
Great video. I'm really worried though about so liberally painting on the degreaser, what about some if that leaking into the hub and bottom bracket and even into the jockey wheel bearings? Or is that needless paranoia?
Generally speaking excellent. A few things I learned. 1) Get your hot soapy water and sponges together before you hit the degreaser because you're going to get that black gunk on you and one's Significant Other might not like you coming inside for those bits with grease monkey hands.... 2) WTF are you doing spraying WD -40 on the brake calipers?! With the wheel in place! Whoa Whoa Whoa! IMHO that is the most insane thing ever. Oil on the pads, oil on the tire? No, just NO. A drop or two of Tri-Flow in the joints is my jam. (But for all I know you did this just to get a reaction - it worked)
Nice, the handlebars & brakes are covered in WD40...
i know right lol
Peter Bartley LOL. Yes I was thinking the same - all over the pads and rim
@@Neadlemeyer WD40 makes you go faster! Who needs brakes?
You forgot the tire shine!
@@iann23 😅😅😁
Years struggling with different bike cleaning products and brushes.. just tried your way, the best result! Thank you so much😀
Dude that view is majestic!
You mean his under pants?
New condition is better than Run down conditions. Keep up the great work :3
You should try the two-bucket method. One for hot soapy water, the other for rinsing your sponge or rag. Otherwise, you are wringing out your dirty sponge in your soapy water and then washing your bike with water that gets dirtier and dirtier as you go.
I used to use just washing up and something similar to WD40. Then 3 years I got for free a small set of brushes, citrus degreaser for the bike and ptfe. I noticed that:
1) The chain was way smoother even on entry level Shimano Sora
2) The chain started wearing out way less.
3) Cables stayed nice, flexible and shiny for longer.
4) STI levers were smoothers.
5) Disks and disk pads stopped making massive noises.
Since then I bought a bigger kit to wash the bike and I use only ptfe and lithium grease specific for the bike. The cost per year is roughly 60 to 80 euro and I wash my two bikes either every 100 Km or after any rainy / muddy ride.
Unless you live somewhere that is very sunny and warm I'd suggest to dry the bike throughly, especially around the fork, seat tube and axles. If you have access to a air compressor that is by far the best way.
Was a really good vid till you sprayed WD40 on the brakes.
Josh Winn as long as it doesnt touch the Actual rubber or the rim (sorry dont know the exact word for it, i'm German) it won't be a problem, but helps with an easier Breaking.. I do the same, but wash over the breaking component afterwards
Shimano sells its Wetlube in a Spraycan, i'd recommend using that instead of Wd-40 to gain an actual lubing effect without harming components
There is absolutely no issues with spraying WD40 on the brake calliper as well as any moving mechanical component such as the front and rear derailleur. WD40 is the best multi purpose spray lube on the market always has been always will be. If it works great on door hinges it works fine on bikes.
TomCoppell the good old 40 has to be used right. It is a degreaser, not a lubricant. To get grease off of parts to clean them is alright, as long as after you clean it you put the lubricants needed back on after washing out all the 40, otherwise it impedes the lubricants ability to stick and perform nominal. It does lubricate a little, not nearly as well as the normal stuff. For parts that move that also don't need grease or traditional lubricants, 40 works well. Since it can be used as a lubricant. you should keep it away from any breaking surfaces at all cost. This includes brake pads, and rim with rim brakes, and brake pads again, and the rotor with dick breaks. Never use 40 as a lubricant on the chain, derailleur cassette, chain rings, or anything drivetrain. yes it get rid of the rat noises but ultimately breaks down your drivetrain significantly.
and when he cut of some peces of the tire and the breaks
If anyone is wondering. The degreaser is made by Juice Lubes, and the brushes are made by Finish Line. The brush set is fantastic by the way!
I would council against washing up liquid - it has a very high salt content which will aid rusting process! I suggest car shampoo which has a wax content which will help protect the paintwork whilst getting rid of road dirt and grease.
Nah don't use car shampoo, as you correctly said it's got wax and leaves a light film on what you wash. No good if you're cleaning a bike with disc brakes! Use bike specific stuff.
I have now watched all cleaningvideos so many times, they are by far the best videos. I mean my bike is clean and I know exactly how to do it, I just love clean bikes!
You must spray the bike down first, or you scratch and grind the dirt into the paint. Good vid overall
GCN,I have tip for you on cleaning white bar tape. If it is still good, you can uses wesley's white wall tire cleaner and a scrub brush. It works great. It makes it like brand new, pearl white again. just rinse. Give it a try and let me know what you think.
love cleaning my bike i dunno why its just chilling
If you can't get enough of cleaning your own bike, for a quarter I can let you wash mine. And this month only, pay just one dollar and get to do 6 cleanings!
This is exactly the video I need to clean my manky old bike that's getting fixed. Thank you.
Great vid, you missed a belt loop, in your jeans.🤣
Andrew Baines lol that’s funny how you caught that
To clean bar tape: take a scoup of washing powder and stir it into a cup or two of hot water. I use a scourer to give it a bit of a scrub brings it up almost like new
It would add credibility if the bike was dirty to begin with.
Exactly!
Here you can see a dirty bike getting washed
th-cam.com/video/w6YOQRTIwj4/w-d-xo.html
It goes both ways though. His bike is so clean because he does this frequently
@@LetsUseLogic131 and this is why he's finished in 30min too
It takes the same amount of time to clean a "clean" bike and a dirty one... As long as both are properly maintained.
I wash my MTB every week. It doesn't go onto trails often these days. But when it does, it will get caked on with everything nature throws at it. That doesn't change at all the time it takes to clean it. Because it's regularly clean, nothing on it gets baked on and stuck.
Now if you're talking about some incredibly dirty bike that hasn't been washed for years... That's not cleaning, that's restoring. You cannot clean those bikes. The frame alone will have embedded dirt that can't be washed off. You'll have to use claybars and even machine polish it out. Each piece needs a thorough check and replaced/repaired. I've done this multiple times because I detail my own cars and friends'/families' as a hobby (btw the same rule apply to cars) so when I got into cycling, some friends and families were encouraged to get back into it. But their bikes have been sitting idle for years. So I took them in one by one to be restored back to looking new. Yes, one bike takes a shit load of products, tools and about several hours to do. That's not cleaning.
During this very informative video, I was also astounded by how naturally cool your voice sounds.
I live in an apartment building in the city with no backyard. How do I clean my bike here? I can't soup it thouroughly let alone rinse it with water afterward.
largo303 local car wash maybe? (not a drive-through one!).
Good idea. I'll try it and see how people react :-)
largo303 you could always use your shower, just make sure to clean up properly afterwards.
Hasse Hardcore I used to wash my bicycle in the shower too. I take my wheels and chain off. Wash the chain in the sink. Give the wheels and cassette a good low pressure wash in the tub. Then put my frame in there with low pressure water and just wash with soap. It works, if anyone is wondering. I did this on a regular basis so scrubbing grease off the floor was not an issue.
largo303 JUST put it in the washing machine mate
I've found Clorox disinfecting wipes do a fantastic job of cleaning up grimy bar tape, and can restore your white bar tape to almost new condition. This doesn't appear to rot out the bar tape either--you'll still get your 8-12 months' use out of a roll.
I clean my car quite regularly and have a lot of decent products for doing so. I was watching this video and trying to see if I'd need any specialist products for a bike. I was quite enjoying the video right up to the point where you sprayed WD40 on the brakes...
Si really loves to go flying out of his bike when he brakes lmao
Might i add that its also a very good idea to wax your bike regularly. Most bike paints have a clearcoat over em so its safe to wax. Makes getting grease and dirt off the paint a lot easier.
you could use one of those magic erasers on the bar tape, they work pretty well for everything else!
No! Those magic erasers are abrasive and will strip the surfaces of paint, coatings, polymer components, and other items.
MXFLD “On the bar tape” would be the key words you seemed to miss.
I use WD40 too and completely agree with you Simon! And never spend more than 10 mns cleaning if it was a dirty, wet grimy road Thst I rode on.
what about the water, how do you dry it off, i'm afraid i might make the bearings in the hub rust or the gears oh and forgot chain? How do you dry the water out correctly I don't want to make my bike rust. Also if i use a hose to wash the soap out, how to i water it so it doesn't get to the bearings and gears(or chain)?
thanks
I use an air tank.
Use a water displacement thing like mo 94 wd40
Great video.....I plan on cleaning my bike for the first time!!!!
Wd 40 is a very thin penetration liquid. It can be used as a degreaser. Not sure as a lubricant
Agreed, and I also question spraying it on breaks where it could get on the pads
Good idea thank you 🙏🏽
Yes this is the best bike channel
Hi guys! One of the things we don’t mention is once you’re done with washing your bike, all the tools that were used to degrease your chain including brushes go into a bucket of water... next day it still feels sticky so I am wondering what’s the quick way to remove this stubborn grease? Thanks
Perhaps use the degreaser? Let me know if that helps. I know people use white spirit to take paint off brushes.
The wd-40 directly on the brakes at the end is crazy.
7:40 - did he just spray wd-40 on the brakes? As far as I know, you can't brake with lubricated brakes? o.O
I think he lubricated the brake calipers, NOT the brake pads.
Dave E No, he just sprayed the entire thing lmfao.
Yes i had the same observation
Sure, it stops them from squealing.
@@disgruntledtoons lmaooo
Yeah this video help. Most of the stuff i dont have like the tools to remove the chain and what not. Rest of the things i can do. So im gonna give it a try that helps.
Every bike cleaning vid I've watched has said something to the effect of "Don't get water in/on the bearings when you're rinsing off", but being a noob, I've really no clue where these preicous bearings are/what the big issue is. Can someone advise? Cheers.
There are bearings in the fork where it pivots, the wheel hubs, and the derailleurs. If water gets into them, it can force out the grease that's in there, which is a problem because they need that grease to rotate smoothly.
Don't worry and just don't use a pressure washer, water stream from a hose cannot press out bearing grease
Bar tape just use hair shampoo and a soft brush, it is gentle enough, but gets the oil and dirt off. Been riding the same white bar tape for 3 years. Looks like most other people’s tape after their first ride at worst. Wd40 is just going to make the next ride dirtier.
You can clean a chain far more localized (on the bike) with some care to prevent degreaser being slapped all over, the dirt from the chain being spread all over and now you’ve removed all lube on the derailleur trapezium.
Instead of using degreaser on the cassette and running the risk of getting it into the bearings or freehub, get a long firm bristle brush, lightly oil the bristles with a mineral oil or even baby oil and brush. The oil thins the dirty clogged lube pretty easily and most rinses off with hot water alone, any residue is so minor it won’t affect the lube on the next ride, and mild soap will get it all off if you don’t attend to it regularly enough to ensure no issues. Same with the chainrings.
No lubing of the brake return springs? On Shimano for sure you’ll have weak return in a few 1000kms.
My bike gets a carnuba wax to prevent grime sticking on the paint next ride, and wd40 on an ear bud in all the hex heads to prevent any mild rust from moisture.
Kerosene is a powerful de-greaser and it is very cheap.
Is just an enjoyment to watch you clean up the bike
My man putting WD40 on the breaks 💀
Baby wipes for white bar tape. Seems to work every time and gets them looking fresh.
Legend has it that when Simon's rear wheel starts spinning it never stops
Great videos. I followed the steps completely, and for the most part they were spot on. I did try the brush to the chain with degreaser, but decided to use my PT Chain Cleaner (with spinning brushes and foam squeegie), it does a more thorough job.
I love white bar tape. I use simple green and a small sponge or rag that I can wrap around the bars in my hand. It's pretty much the same approach you take with your chain. As for the tires I use a safety pin and pluck out any unwanted pieces of glass and debris.
Thanks for the great videos. Your presenting, editing and production values are fantastic. One question: towards the end, why does Si spray WD40 on the deraileurs and brake calipers? I thought WD40 was a lubrican, therefore not good for brake surfaces?
B1uenose2009 You certainly don't want to try to get WD40 on brake surfaces, although it actually doesn't seem to matter too much if you do. Brake calipers can seize up though so it's a good idea to look after the pivots on them, and WD40 does that job nicely.
Global Cycling Network cheers that's really helpful. Thanks for the reply!
Be careful with dishwashing detergent. Often highly caustic and will dull the painted finish. Best to use a carnuba was car wash liquid. Turps or kerosene on chains etc using a rag. Never use petrol !
I often use ct 18 truck wash. Heavy duty and designed for trucks and if it can remove grime and soot etc without harming paintwork , its great stuff . Cheers
why would you put wd40 on the brakes?
You shouldn't ever do that
calipers not the pads. keeps em moving easily
wd40 collects dust i would never use it for any type of lube i know this from learning the hard way
Chris Witek
Why not use a drop of oil/lube💡
bigballer
You have 800.000 subscribers, but whenever i visit your channel, it says you have no content... How is that?
Q-tips for the jockey wheels work great. I flatten the tips with pliers and use them to get stubborn gunk in the cassette too.
I was expecting to see an aquarium... Stayed out of curiosity.
Quick tip - been doing the glue on tyre nicks and cuts for a while now, but I recently happened on what I think is a far better solution in Gorilla Glue 'Super Glue' which is like other super glue's but its got rubber incorporated in it and going by my experience it makes a far better longer lasting repair... oh and you get 2 tubes for the price of one
Very nice video!! By the way I think there are 2 things you could have done better, correct me if I'm wrong.
1) Use Cif for the handle bar tape, it works great
2) Why don't You spray the wd 40 on the mechs and calipers before you install the wheels? I think any oil on tyres or braking surfaces could be bad for your safety
Agree on point 2 (not tried point 1! :) )
I just use engine degreaser from my local hardware store on my chain and casette etc, it works exactly the same and is much cheaper than the special bike degreasers. Only about a fiver for 500ml.
Also it's easy to get your greasy components really shiny by just spraying degreaser on them like a mad man until they are dripping with degreaser. It takes off most of the grease and you don't even need to use a cloth, just rinse it off.
Can't believe you turned your back on fellow WD40 disciples Simon! :)
Don't worry Andrew Bedford - the 5 minute clean is his regular.
You guys are something else! This is the best channel ever!
what degreaser do you recommend will any do or can some damage my bike
Imho some of the top investments for ANY bike owner,road mountain or commuter, are a decent work stand (doesnt have to be an expensive Park Tools one) and an AIR COMPRESSOR! I wouldn't dare to think of washing my bike like that, then leaving it out to air dry.
Even a small one will do,just means you'll have to wait for it to fill a couple of times.Especially for road cyclists, where people dish out thousands just for a few grams less, I think there's no excuse for leaving things to air dry .Even if you're full carbon fiber your bolts rust,your cables rust, your clamps rust.
Whats wrong with air dry? (Sorry for asking, but still don't see why
)
西山ひより Depending on where you live the time it takes to air dry can lead to rust. That being said you can just take an old towel and dry off the excess water than let it air dry. I never had any problems, but i do live in a very dry place.
I still personally find it better to use the chain lube on the pivot points on deraileurs/calipers/levers/pedals. Also, I service my hubs every three months, just because I had a road bike that lasted six months before the hubs got rusted shitless x3 Great video, have recommended to at least eleven people to watch your channel, and keep making more! Also, do a video of lubes/degreasers/greases to steer away from and ones to use, in terms of performance, quality and longevity. I really, really want to know what you think of certain lubes! I just got some TF2 Lithium grease and want to know if that's decent?
How do you 'service' your hubs?!
I use power hose and then blow with the air blaster to make it dry super fast. It gets everything off and then I put lubricant to avoid rust or noises.
Really good except for the WD-40 advice. If your bike has ALUMINUM parts the WD-40 will cause the ALUMINUM to oxidize. Oxidize is just a fancy word for RUST. Aluminum rust will not look like Iron rust. However moving ALUMINUM parts can and will FREEZE UP. Basically WD-40 displaces water and can soak into IRON BASED metals. It is not really a lubricant as most people tend to believe. I know I believed that for a very long time. If you use WD-40 on your ALUMINIUM parts, for cleaning, be sure to thoroughly remove it by cleaning and then lightly lubricate with a quality lubricant. WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver.The lubricant-like properties of WD-40 come not from the substance itself, but from dissolving components. And the effect doesn't last.WD-40 can be a good substance to start with - it can help clean up rust or other grime. But depending on what you're working with, you should probably follow up WD-40 with use of a true lubricant such as one based on silicone, grease, Teflon, or graphite. WD-40 can wash dirt into a bike chain, ruining the chain and taking out the gears along with it. Stay away, cyclists.
+Glenn Fannin aluminium corrodes, not rusts. Aluminium is also not ferric unless it is in an alu-iron alloy. But graphite or teflon lubricants are advised
Aluminum can react with oxygen, which is known as oxidizing. aka Aluminum oxide. Much in the same way as iron oxidizes, aka ferric oxide. "Rust" is just a nickname of oxidation almost to the point where it is synonymous so technically he is not wrong in saying that. But neither are you as oxidation is a corrosion mechanism, just usually referred to as oxidation when oxygen is involved.
Actually oxidation doesn't need to directly involve oxygen but you're right. Metal oxides are just called rust since it's easier to understand in common language.
Glenn Fann
Very thorough. Best part of the vid: 6:57.
You’re actually cleaning your bike...I need to step up my game 🙌🏻
0:32 👀 2000 IQ
Enjoyed that video, thanks. With some car detailing experience I'm going to be two bucket method, snow foam pre wash, Bilt Hamber Surfex HD for degreaser, might even wax the frame for aerodynamic / I like to caress my bike purposes 😂. Nice to see what I can get wet and soapy and what not to. Thanks
I saw calvin kleins lol
this guy is a bike king
How does this get mixed up with an aquarium
I have got myself a white scott bartape and its great. I can clean of all the dirt just with water and a bit of rubbing :P
GT 85 with Teflon is the answer keep wd 40 away from your bike
+Jamie Mackereth Totally agree. It should be noted that both are a degreasant so should be used carefully, check the manufacturers web sites, they will therefore remove grease from derailiers and chains.
I found that spraying the white bar tape with degreaser does clean it quite effectively. Especially when it got dirty with grease after replacing a tire.
I use old toothbrushes.
me too and that very very good working
I use my current ones.
Sergio i use my wifes
I piss on my gear ring to degrease them
I like turtles
You should point out that some chain lubes need to be applied to a dry chain. For example: Pro Gold ProLink needs to bond to the bare metal and will turn black if the chain is wet. Check the label.
I've never seen a video with such a little dislikes for this many views
I used baby wipes instead of old shirt to remove any remaining grease in the cassete. I don't know what kind of magic has in its composition, but it cleans like a charm!
"im gonna paint some moron" :D
A relatively cheap alternative to washing up liquid is car washing soap -- safer for metal, plastic and CF. You can also find soaps that wax as well which helps keep the frame cleaner.