To Clint: I had a lot of reliability problems with my 7.3. And then you recommended changing the engine wiring harness. I haven't had an issue since. No error codes, no CPS, no tow truck, etc., etc., etc. Thanks again. Best advice I ever got on an engine. I have a 1997 7.3 with about 75k since rebuild. I started using bypass filters in the mid 1960s. Older engines, early 1950s & before only had bypass filters in a canister. I've been running marine diesels since the 1950s and my own since 1961. Once I started owning and running tugs and ships I switched to centrifuges and using oil analysis. I use a ship centrifuge to clean the 7.3 oil about every 50 to 100 hours. Once I got the oil system clean, my oil stays somewhat transparent. I usually clean it twice about 100 miles apart. I drain the oil including the HP oil tank. Running clean oil really gets more life. Back when there were mainly US made engines, mostly Cat and Detroit as either main engines in smaller ships and generator or auxiliary engines in large ships, there were many engines and operators to compare results with. My bypass or centrifuge clean oil engines usually went double or more hours between overhauls than other vessel engines of the same make and model. And almost all of the cranks, cams, gear trains remained original. I have 2 1947 natural Detroits that have original cranks, cams, gears, and lifters in use about 75,000 hours. Only rebuilt once 12 years ago, by me. And I mic'd every clearance. They still have stock compression & hp. I run them at the max continuous rating for days on end.
I have John deer Manuel’s from long ago that say pre fill it activates the paper preventing it from smashing the folds together reducing filter surface area and holes being torn dry paper if you can’t possibly fill it they say turn it on after oil change for 8 seconds then let it sit 15 minutes to activate
Just received oil sample kit along with riff raff goodies: HPX line, DBL 7405, oem ICP/ oil pressure sensor/ fuel filter, Donaldson 6637 blue AF, and a few other randoms. Will get to installing towards the end of the week. I’m excited to see oil test results and compare them in 5k miles. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Nothing wrong with the sensors just figured they are originals
24:28 Great video, thanks for taking the time to do the research and sharing it with us all. I've always been told if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I've been running Rotella T4 with a Motorcraft filter for 23 years on my 2001 7.3. Started adding Arch oil to the fuel about a year ago due to occasional injector cackle, it's gone. She's purring like a kitten.
The magnetic oil plug is maybe $4, I just change it every other oil change. Been using the motorcraft for 3 years since I got my 7.3, going to switch based on your recommendation. 306k so just got warmed up.
Good morning brother hope you are having a good weekend ROOKIE MISTAKE here so quick question so what do you think of the Schafer transmission fluid full synthetic for a 2001 f250 I have changed the fluid just a basic just wanted your thoughts
Hey clint what about the amsoil fuel additives? I use there all in one diesel additive that is a cleaner/cold flow/cetane booster in 1 not in every tank but i try to put in a bottle every other tank, and I also use their signature series heavy duty diesel 15 W 40 full synthetic oil and filter and they specifically say not to use any additives in their oil so i never tried the AR products because of there recommendation.
Schaffer diesel winter treat 2000 used it in a cat motor for 1 million miles sent the injectors to cat for rebuild they sent them back saying looks like new nothing to rebuild most injectors make it 200k if lucky 600k. And Sinclair uses it out west for their premium fuel -50 degrees protection
Fully synthetic Lucas and motokote on every oil change is a must...dont use full synthetic on a 7.tree to thin...old motor....old oil...regular 15w40 plus 1 quart Lucas every oil change...my truck has 890 thousand miles all original...trust me been doing it for 30 years now...
@VeteranMob yes sir...no matter what..I've done 178 oil changes on the Ford. Still runs like the first day I got it..oils most important on the HEUI system...truck Still has the original HPOP and LPOP..
Morning brother “ROOKIE MISTAKE “ here big question so I just put in a brand new pedestal and turbo kc 300 new up pipes but I’m noticing quite a bit of oil in the valley I did everything as possible close to your recommendation I’m wondering if a oil catch can would help this issue the one thing I didn’t do was the pedestal oring suggested RTV use today is the first time iv noticed the oil one week after the new top side work
Clint, Thanks for the education and all the great videos. I've think I've been through all of your videos and haven't found anything on air filters/ filter boxes. If I am just missing it could you please provide a link? If not, do you have a quick recommendation? I own two 7.3 Excursions each with 200K miles. Just ordered 2 test kits from Blackstone. Thanks Again!
Clint i need help, my 1997 f350 7.3l has low power, and shifts funny. it will shift fine in 1st gear and 2nd but after that it will buck and jerk when i press the pedal and left off of it, and when its shifting is really funky. im thinking the MAP but i dont know.
Hey there Clint, I appreciate your videos. My 7.3 is not getting used as much lately, is ok for them to sit for a couple of weeks without running? Or should I run it at least once a week?
Run the 7.tree everyday it's a must my 2001 7.tree f2shity has 890 thousand miles all original still stroking to this day...I've driven it everyday for 23 years now....13 letter shitspreader INTERNATIONAL best diesel ever made
Great work client so I’m about to try this challenge but the rep I have here in Albuquerque had a case of 15/40 and a case of 5w40 so I went on and got it great guy and deal so my question I’m I better off getting those last few quarts of 15/40 or should I go ahead and mix the two with 12 quarts of 15/40 and 3 - 5w40 please let me know what you think
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks brother so I just now contacted my Schaefer’s and I’m picking up another case of 15/40 thanks I appreciate your help and you responding so quickly so I don’t make a ROOKIE MISTAKE
After watching this video I'm switching from the Motorcraft Oil Filter to the DBL-7405. I've been using Rotella T-6 15W-40 but plan to switch to Schaeffer's. Clint, which product line of 15W-40 do you recommend? 700 CK-4 or 7000 Synthetic Plus??? I want to be sure to get it right. Thanks!
I don’t see a 15w-40 for diesel in the 7000 synthetic plus. Only 15w-40 for gasoline racing oil. Am I missing something? I see 700 synshield durability advantage for diesel. anybody have a link?
To : Clint or other ,Question since this is one of the best 7,3 web pages I want to ask for help. 2003 e450 7.3 diesel looking for help with loss of power sometimes off start other times it has very little power you can start and lift off pedal and reapply the pedal and it take off with great amount of power. you can decelerate to make a turn and loss of power but regains power as you turn. down the street. from stop sign you can start of and have very little power and come to a complete stop and press the gas pedal and it take off with full power. you can get to full speed and lift of gas pedal and reapply gas pedal and the engine produce no power. lift of again and reapply and it starts producing power. Again we replaced injectors 2,3,4,6, new turbo. tested fuel psi 60 but low volume so we replaced pick up tubes screen and both inline filter inside the tube. change filter on top of engine. inj buzz test passed every time. replaced map sensor. oil level is full. icd pressure ok I've spent 6k in the last 3month with shops that are throw parts at it I've ran out of money for throwing strikes. I need a Home Run!! thank you.
I have a 7.3 that I bought new in 2000 .. the only problem i ever had similar to what you describe turned out to be throttle pedal sensor .. bought a new dorman unit complete with pedal and problem solved ...this was about 7 yrs ago
When we swap a crashed 7.3 to a 08-10 sd , engine all wire harness's including cab every under hood part and component remove the dash and collect all wire harness,s and component s and foot pedal / we then get conversion cluster and hvac conversion in your case just swapping in the entire dash from transplant unit would do the trick
Ive tried to by a oem engine harness for my 2003 7.3 from the dealer and was told no longer avaiable from ford. Where would i get a after market ( as good as ford oem) harness.
Gram is garbage long long long time ago you used to put a toilet paper roll in side of the filter can and just lean the filter an and put a new toilet paper roll inside
So I want you to know Clint I’m now all in on the challenge so I just now put a fresh 15 quarts of Schaffer 15w40 but I also installed the EZ-oil drain for future oil testing I hope that was a good idea let me know what you think of the drain if you like or not
To Clint: I had a lot of reliability problems with my 7.3. And then you recommended changing the engine wiring harness. I haven't had an issue since. No error codes, no CPS, no tow truck, etc., etc., etc. Thanks again. Best advice I ever got on an engine.
I have a 1997 7.3 with about 75k since rebuild. I started using bypass filters in the mid 1960s. Older engines, early 1950s & before only had bypass filters in a canister. I've been running marine diesels since the 1950s and my own since 1961. Once I started owning and running tugs and ships I switched to centrifuges and using oil analysis. I use a ship centrifuge to clean the 7.3 oil about every 50 to 100 hours. Once I got the oil system clean, my oil stays somewhat transparent. I usually clean it twice about 100 miles apart. I drain the oil including the HP oil tank.
Running clean oil really gets more life. Back when there were mainly US made engines, mostly Cat and Detroit as either main engines in smaller ships and generator or auxiliary engines in large ships, there were many engines and operators to compare results with. My bypass or centrifuge clean oil engines usually went double or more hours between overhauls than other vessel engines of the same make and model. And almost all of the cranks, cams, gear trains remained original. I have 2 1947 natural Detroits that have original cranks, cams, gears, and lifters in use about 75,000 hours. Only rebuilt once 12 years ago, by me. And I mic'd every clearance. They still have stock compression & hp. I run them at the max continuous rating for days on end.
This is great hey and why I started doing this
I have John deer Manuel’s from long ago that say pre fill it activates the paper preventing it from smashing the folds together reducing filter surface area and holes being torn dry paper if you can’t possibly fill it they say turn it on after oil change for 8 seconds then let it sit 15 minutes to activate
At Minute 19:49, did you mean to say, “FRAM, YOU NEED TO GET YOUR SHI&T TOGETHER” 🤣😂
Just received oil sample kit along with riff raff goodies: HPX line, DBL 7405, oem ICP/ oil pressure sensor/ fuel filter, Donaldson 6637 blue AF, and a few other randoms. Will get to installing towards the end of the week. I’m excited to see oil test results and compare them in 5k miles. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Nothing wrong with the sensors just figured they are originals
24:28 Great video, thanks for taking the time to do the research and sharing it with us all.
I've always been told if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I've been running Rotella T4 with a Motorcraft filter for 23 years on my 2001 7.3. Started adding Arch oil to the fuel about a year ago due to occasional injector cackle, it's gone. She's purring like a kitten.
The magnetic oil plug is maybe $4, I just change it every other oil change. Been using the motorcraft for 3 years since I got my 7.3, going to switch based on your recommendation. 306k so just got warmed up.
Very informative!! 25 utube videos in one!! Great job..
Good morning brother hope you are having a good weekend ROOKIE MISTAKE here so quick question so what do you think of the Schafer transmission fluid full synthetic for a 2001 f250 I have changed the fluid just a basic just wanted your thoughts
Hey clint what about the amsoil fuel additives? I use there all in one diesel additive that is a cleaner/cold flow/cetane booster in 1 not in every tank but i try to put in a bottle every other tank, and I also use their signature series heavy duty diesel 15 W 40 full synthetic oil and filter and they specifically say not to use any additives in their oil so i never tried the AR products because of there recommendation.
Schaeffer for the win. Well done sir!
Yes! Thank you!
Schaffer diesel winter treat 2000 used it in a cat motor for 1 million miles sent the injectors to cat for rebuild they sent them back saying looks like new nothing to rebuild most injectors make it 200k if lucky 600k. And Sinclair uses it out west for their premium fuel -50 degrees protection
Saving for the bypass amsoil
Any thoughts on the ATF as a great cleanner?
Did I
miss the fuel filter type. thanks Clint.
Clint What would you think the top hp reliably would be for the pmr 7.3 motor?
Prolong is the absolute best lubricant and has been for decades
Fully synthetic Lucas and motokote on every oil change is a must...dont use full synthetic on a 7.tree to thin...old motor....old oil...regular 15w40 plus 1 quart Lucas every oil change...my truck has 890 thousand miles all original...trust me been doing it for 30 years now...
You change your oil every 5000 miles?
@VeteranMob yes sir...no matter what..I've done 178 oil changes on the Ford. Still runs like the first day I got it..oils most important on the HEUI system...truck Still has the original HPOP and LPOP..
Morning brother “ROOKIE MISTAKE “ here big question so I just put in a brand new pedestal and turbo kc 300 new up pipes but I’m noticing quite a bit of oil in the valley I did everything as possible close to your recommendation I’m wondering if a oil catch can would help this issue the one thing I didn’t do was the pedestal oring suggested RTV use today is the first time iv noticed the oil one week after the new top side work
I didn’t see the motor craft oil filter on the list how is the one oil filter compared to the other filters
Clint, Thanks for the education and all the great videos. I've think I've been through all of your videos and haven't found anything on air filters/ filter boxes. If I am just missing it could you please provide a link? If not, do you have a quick recommendation? I own two 7.3 Excursions each with 200K miles. Just ordered 2 test kits from Blackstone. Thanks Again!
www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffraff-diesel-6637-filter-kit/?sku=RDP6637-BLU&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA6KWvBhAREiwAFPZM7jIOFDimeDK3QA_ueFMbsbCP19J--zeku-bUOhWAaUSf-ju5f4YoJRoCSFEQAvD_BwE
Thank you Sir!
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD
Clint i need help, my 1997 f350 7.3l has low power, and shifts funny. it will shift fine in 1st gear and 2nd but after that it will buck and jerk when i press the pedal and left off of it, and when its shifting is really funky. im thinking the MAP but i dont know.
Shell Rotella T6 15/40 ?
I use Lucas fuel injector cleaner,is it worth the money ?
Is there a oil water conversion kit to oil to air?
I have the Amsoil bypass system, It's the best.
Nice work!
Hey there Clint, I appreciate your videos. My 7.3 is not getting used as much lately, is ok for them to sit for a couple of weeks without running? Or should I run it at least once a week?
Run the 7.tree everyday it's a must my 2001 7.tree f2shity has 890 thousand miles all original still stroking to this day...I've driven it everyday for 23 years now....13 letter shitspreader INTERNATIONAL best diesel ever made
Hmmm. I appreciate the response. I have no where to go every day. I work at home ,so lately I take it to the grocery store once a week.
@robertnelsen6149 running them everyday keep main bearings lubed also keep moisture away...keeps all orings in working order...
Start it and let it run for 30 minutes or until warm. Keep the juices flowing…
Great work client so I’m about to try this challenge but the rep I have here in Albuquerque had a case of 15/40 and a case of 5w40 so I went on and got it great guy and deal so my question I’m I better off getting those last few quarts of 15/40 or should I go ahead and mix the two with 12 quarts of 15/40 and 3 - 5w40 please let me know what you think
use the 5 40 to flush then 15 / 40 don't mix
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks brother so I just now contacted my Schaefer’s and I’m picking up another case of 15/40 thanks I appreciate your help and you responding so quickly so I don’t make a ROOKIE MISTAKE
So Clint I’ve got my case of 15-40 I wanted to ask you what you think about the EZ-DRAIN FOR THE OIL PAN GOOD OR BAD IDEA
After watching this video I'm switching from the Motorcraft Oil Filter to the DBL-7405. I've been using Rotella T-6 15W-40 but plan to switch to Schaeffer's. Clint, which product line of 15W-40 do you recommend? 700 CK-4 or 7000 Synthetic Plus??? I want to be sure to get it right. Thanks!
7000
I don’t see a 15w-40 for diesel in the 7000 synthetic plus. Only 15w-40 for gasoline racing oil. Am I missing something?
I see 700 synshield durability advantage for diesel.
anybody have a link?
@@swood3434 I’m assuming the diesel oil is what we should be buying.
Great content keep up the great work man.
I got a new idm and it works. Save
Clint can you recommend where to send oil samples/ cost?
Also best aluminum radiator?
look at the 1st video it has the info
To :
Clint or other ,Question since this is one of the best 7,3 web pages I want to ask for help.
2003 e450 7.3 diesel looking for help with loss of power sometimes off start other times it has very little power you can start and lift off pedal and reapply the pedal and it take off with great amount of power. you can decelerate to make a turn and loss of power but regains power as you turn. down the street. from stop sign you can start of and have very little power and come to a complete stop and press the gas pedal and it take off with full power.
you can get to full speed and lift of gas pedal and reapply gas pedal and the engine produce no power. lift of again and reapply and it starts producing power. Again
we replaced injectors 2,3,4,6, new turbo.
tested fuel psi 60 but low volume so we replaced pick up tubes screen and both inline filter inside the tube. change filter on top of engine.
inj buzz test passed every time.
replaced map sensor.
oil level is full.
icd pressure ok
I've spent 6k in the last 3month with shops that are throw parts at it
I've ran out of money for throwing strikes. I need a Home Run!!
thank you.
I have a 7.3 that I bought new in 2000 .. the only problem i ever had similar to what you describe turned out to be throttle pedal sensor .. bought a new dorman unit complete with pedal and problem solved ...this was about 7 yrs ago
Switching my 03 F-350 putting a 73 in it can you send me a short list what I got to do to swapping it out
When we swap a crashed 7.3 to a 08-10 sd , engine all wire harness's including cab every under hood part and component remove the dash and collect all wire harness,s and component s and foot pedal / we then get conversion cluster and hvac conversion in your case just swapping in the entire dash from transplant unit would do the trick
Ive tried to by a oem engine harness for my 2003 7.3 from the dealer and was told no longer avaiable from ford. Where would i get a after market ( as good as ford oem) harness.
Riffraff diesel
How about prolube oil additive on Shaffer oil test seems good?
prolube was one that changed the add pack so it didn't make the list but if your happy with it thats fine
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD rather get Shaffer and get million miles think that’s possible with stage 2 injectors pmr rods and 40psi boost by chance?
Motorcraft oil filters?
Motor craft was unwilling to share there data sheet But I would find it as a good filter and respectable quality
Hi there! The most recent video is centered around a crime documentary. I'm interested in hearing your thoughts. Care to chime in?
Rev X no good??
Gram is garbage long long long time ago you used to put a toilet paper roll in side of the filter can and just lean the filter an and put a new toilet paper roll inside
So I want you to know Clint I’m now all in on the challenge so I just now put a fresh 15 quarts of Schaffer 15w40 but I also installed the EZ-oil drain for future oil testing I hope that was a good idea let me know what you think of the drain if you like or not
Good Good and the Oil drain is something we always suggest on oil pan changes to customers