Interesting build. Good tips about the plastic box and the DIN rail. I'm planning on doing a similar project but with a different approach. I plan to use the ATmega328 chip found on Arduinos, and program a PID control function into the chip, and also program in a timing schedule so that the heater will turn off completely after a set amount of time. Also I intend to use cheap LM35 sensor as temp sensor and simply superglue it to the surface of the PC.
3:50 Thar not the DIN Rail you are talking about. Those are terminal blocks. The DIN rail is that metal rail that terminal blocks and other components get mounted to.
@tegancooper-hughes5174 it would be no different then removing the rocker. It would just blow steam. That being said I've never had a probe blow out. It's only 1/8" and 15 psi so a pound or two of pressure pushing it out.
Maybe in the future show us the circuit diagram, and then show us the implementation, especially if your not going to use standard tech language (live or hot wire, and neutral/common, and ground, controls like feed back loop, or controlled device, etc)
when you tap off the 120v input through the DIN terminal block, do you just simply put two wires on the "output" side of the terminal block? one to PID, and one to either relay or output (depending on whether its white/black)? or are you connecting two terminals together and having separate screw connections for each out?
what is the diamter of the thermocouple you were using? I picked up the build parts from your list but the thermocouple and the compression fitting didn't match up.
Great Job I am looking for a controller with 2 temp inputs So I can control a pump. I want to have pump running when temp 1 is 10F higher than temp 2. any Ideas how to do that? thanks
Yes for sure. I use it on my 55 and 85 gal. However if your running a 1500w or less inkbird now has a plug and play timer controller. You can find it on my kit page for the drum sterilizer.
@@dylanalexander9078 the inkbird is harder to program but it may just be a learning curve for me. Also the inkbird can only do 1800w where you can put 40a relays and do 30A on these DIY units. Also the inkbird only goes to 212f so you cant use it for a pressure cooker, only a drum or steam cabinet
@@MyersMushroomsFarms I'm going to browse some of your other videos. But I'm curious how you heat a 55 or 85 gal sterilizer? How much power does that take?
@@MyersMushroomsFarms im an electrician that usually build for customers so thats why I asked. To be honest i would probably not fuse it if ot was for myself. Thanks for providing the video for everyone. 👌👍
@@LM-uz4pr Always fuse or circuit breaker. Saves you meltdowns as you probably know. for stuff like this marine circuit breakers work well. They can be the on/off and the breaker at the same time.
I made a 220V controller, but used a separate contactor to switch the 220, and a 24v transformer to power the contactor coil. So basically the SSR was used to control the contactor instead of the heating element directly. I did this because 220 has two live wires and without a contactor, one wire will still be hot, and could kill you if you made a path to ground for it.
Hey is there anyway you could elaborate more on this...? Using the same setup, I have 10/3 wire coming in and I'm not sure what to do with the extra hot?
@@MyersMushroomsFarms I'm trying to do something exactly like this. I've got an electrician buddy who's helping me. What do you mean "if you only wanted to turn off one leg"? You use one 120v leg to power the SSR, then PID, then it goes back to the din rail, and out the control panel, no?
I love what you did with the heat sink.
Interesting build. Good tips about the plastic box and the DIN rail.
I'm planning on doing a similar project but with a different approach. I plan to use the ATmega328 chip found on Arduinos, and program a PID control function into the chip, and also program in a timing schedule so that the heater will turn off completely after a set amount of time. Also I intend to use cheap LM35 sensor as temp sensor and simply superglue it to the surface of the PC.
The DIN rail is the metal strip on the bottom. You fasten the Terminal Connectors to the DIN rail. Just info for people who are searching for parts
How did you wire the controller up to the hot plate? Would this also work with a induction plate?
Hi Myers, could have you got a video on how to programme the inkbird by anychance? Thanks
3:50 Thar not the DIN Rail you are talking about. Those are terminal blocks. The DIN rail is that metal rail that terminal blocks and other components get mounted to.
Would this not be dangerous with the probe flying out if not tight enough in??
@tegancooper-hughes5174 it would be no different then removing the rocker. It would just blow steam. That being said I've never had a probe blow out. It's only 1/8" and 15 psi so a pound or two of pressure pushing it out.
I'm making one now. I might put an isolator in somewhere though.
Maybe in the future show us the circuit diagram, and then show us the implementation, especially if your not going to use standard tech language (live or hot wire, and neutral/common, and ground, controls like feed back loop, or controlled device, etc)
Very educational! Thank you for sharing!
If I wanted to control 2 legs of 220 v could I just add a second 40 amp relay?
That or a double pole contactor
Can I use this with a PLC and use the PLC to maintain temperature
where to get these wires
when you tap off the 120v input through the DIN terminal block, do you just simply put two wires on the "output" side of the terminal block? one to PID, and one to either relay or output (depending on whether its white/black)? or are you connecting two terminals together and having separate screw connections for each out?
You can put two wires or if your DIN kit has jumpers you can jump the 2 blocks together and put each on its own screw.
is the SSR output on the controller TTL or logic output?
They usually can only handle 30ma or so. probably use a transistor or A low power CMOS chip for the output. Most are 12vdc so not TTL .
what is the diamter of the thermocouple you were using? I picked up the build parts from your list but the thermocouple and the compression fitting didn't match up.
Great Job
I am looking for a controller with 2 temp inputs So I can control a pump.
I want to have pump running when temp 1 is 10F higher than temp 2.
any Ideas how to do that?
thanks
You can use the alarm relay to do that
Can this controller be used with the 55 gallon sterilizer that you built?
Yes for sure. I use it on my 55 and 85 gal. However if your running a 1500w or less inkbird now has a plug and play timer controller. You can find it on my kit page for the drum sterilizer.
Any advantages using the DIY over the inkbird?
@@dylanalexander9078 the inkbird is harder to program but it may just be a learning curve for me. Also the inkbird can only do 1800w where you can put 40a relays and do 30A on these DIY units. Also the inkbird only goes to 212f so you cant use it for a pressure cooker, only a drum or steam cabinet
@@MyersMushroomsFarms I'm going to browse some of your other videos. But I'm curious how you heat a 55 or 85 gal sterilizer? How much power does that take?
@@thedillestpickle 55 can be 1000 or 1500. 85 1500 or 2k
Can this be used with bubbas barrels for PID control and slip thermocouple between sleeve and barrel?
Yes and that's exactly how I recommend hooking up the probe
Does the ss relay really get that hot? I'm building one, and wondering if I really need the heat sink.
Depends on the load but yes. anything over 2000w i recommend a fan too.
How did you connect the relay to the heatsink through the box?
I notch the box and drive the heatsink into the box.
Any reason why you did not fuse your control devices?
probably wouldn't be a bad idea, just never have. A fuse for the PID and breaker on the main load would be a good improvement.
@@MyersMushroomsFarms im an electrician that usually build for customers so thats why I asked. To be honest i would probably not fuse it if ot was for myself. Thanks for providing the video for everyone. 👌👍
A rcbo would probably best for a fuse 🤔
@@LM-uz4pr Always fuse or circuit breaker. Saves you meltdowns as you probably know. for stuff like this marine circuit breakers work well. They can be the on/off and the breaker at the same time.
I made a 220V controller, but used a separate contactor to switch the 220, and a 24v transformer to power the contactor coil. So basically the SSR was used to control the contactor instead of the heating element directly. I did this because 220 has two live wires and without a contactor, one wire will still be hot, and could kill you if you made a path to ground for it.
Hey is there anyway you could elaborate more on this...? Using the same setup, I have 10/3 wire coming in and I'm not sure what to do with the extra hot?
Is this 220 volt coming in?
no this is wired for 120 in 120 out
yep 120 you could do 240 if you only wanted to turn off one leg.
@@MyersMushroomsFarms I'm trying to do something exactly like this. I've got an electrician buddy who's helping me. What do you mean "if you only wanted to turn off one leg"? You use one 120v leg to power the SSR, then PID, then it goes back to the din rail, and out the control panel, no?
@@MyersMushroomsFarms Only one of the 120v legs connects to the SSR, the other leg connects directly to the load, right?
@@mvigno2 for 220 yes, or you can run 2 SSRS and switch both
Why such an expensive PID? Wouldn't any 20+amp 2 step work for almost any PC work with a few seconds of reprogramming? (yes I'm cheap)
Im using it for multiple processes
I was excited about this until I saw that you didn't actually build a PID controller, you just put it in a box, and you didn't even make the box!
Why reinevent the wheel?