Thanks for the video. Extra Tips: Water Pump: You can get the whole Water Pump Repair Kit for $35, same cost as impeller only. On reassembly, lightly grease the impeller and rotate the crankshaft while pressing the housing down, it will go on like butter with vanes in correct direction. Replace the lower unit drain & fill plug washers every time, only an extra $5. Not worth risking getting water in your lower unit. Put anti sieze on the lower unit bolts! They are the most likely bolts to corrode on any motor. My spark plug torque is 12.5 FT - LB. Put a block of wood between the prop and cav plate to get the prop nut off. DO NOT RUN YOUR MOTOR WITH THE GARDEN HOSE CONNECTION. THE MOTOR WILL NOT COOL. Read your service manual!!
Excellent video, covering everything. Done these jobs before but this is a good refresher before I do mine tomorrow. Oil, filters etc loaded up in van and ready to go - thanks!
Gday mate good video you are the only person i have seen who does the same as i do and prime your filter with clean oil it amazes me i see pro mechs not do it i have always done it on my cars and bikes ,whoever sold you that pump ripped you off they come with two adaptors the yellow is for the merc and a silver one ( which you didnt get ) does the yamahas ,couple of tips when installing a new impellor rotate your shaft clockwise while gently pushing down on the water pump casing ,another grease on your bolts waterpump and lower leg also a small about of grease inside the impellor cover and on the seal/o ring on your drive shaft splines and also on your prop shaft .
I'm about to service my F20 in a couple of weeks. It's probably never been serviced like this. I'm a third owner of it. Can't complain about it whatsoever. Had issues with it staying primed when I first got it but new hoses and bulb solved that. Excellent video tutorial.
Eric first time i am on your channel, Thank you so much for an excellent tutorial video!! I am in a remote area of the South Pacific and really appreciate this info!!!
New subscriber. Loved your service video. Very concise and easy to follow. Two questions: What year is your motor? I have the same one built in 2009 and the oil drain and filler are in different places. Not that that it matters, I'm just curious. If there isn't a crush washer on the oil drain plug, should one be put on? Same with the lower drain and fill plugs... do they need washers? Recently I've used a 80-90 gear oil that comes in a squeeze bottle that allows me to jam it in the bottom filler and squeeze until the oil comes out the top. Not as elegant but it gets the job done. Thanks again for the video! Cheers, Rick
Hey Eric, great video, thanks! Quick tip for you if you haven't heard it already. When you're removing and replacing the prop, place a small block of wood between the top of the prop blade and the underside of the cavitation plate. It will prevent any injury to your hand and allows better (and easier) loosening and tightening of the prop nut. Cheers!
Just bought a 2003 Yamaha 25hp 4 stroke basically just like this one. Do you have like a amazon list of all the products you used there? Would be awesome just to order it all and get it shipped to me. Our local marina is outrageous on pricing.
Its great! The best modification I've done to the boat. One thing to take into consideration is the wiring. It needs to be protected and not left out to the elements. There are circuit breakers on the wiring that connects to the battery. They will become rusty, and eventually fail if they're not protected. Also, put a ton of dielectric grease on both relays. They have a rubber seal, but I still had both fail because moisture got inside. The grease will prevent that from happening. Same goes for the small inline glass fuse. Grease that baby up, and it will provide you with many years of trouble free service.
I will, eventually. I’m not finished modifying the boat. When I can manage the time to do the floor, and a few other odds and ends I will do a full boat tour. As for baiting up, I’m reluctant to show that as there’s only one body of water I bait up on, and it’s already over pressured. I don’t need to contribute to the mess out there by people replicating what I’m showing in a video on that body of water.
@@FloBass I completely understand. As far as bait goes I am just looking for tips and pointers for finding/catching bait. Thank you for the reply and everything you do to help us noobers along the way.
@@MrJamesp2994 I'm still a n00b myself, lol. There are a lot of video's out there on baiting up, but if the 100 people who consistently watch my video's want me to do one, I'll have to figure something out.
The impeller was fine, that is the thing i never do myself, hate screw on this and link up the gear etc afterwards and i just destroy the engine, but as long as it works, i dont do anything and use the indikation water to see if it is bad.They last 500 hours with no problem.Oil i do often, every 50 hours and the 9,8 is no oil filter so extremely easy to change. If do it like this each 100 hours, the engine last easy 10 000
Yes absolutely. The ability to trim up while I'm running gets me about 3-5 mph more speed. It's to the point where I could get another prop because I bang the rev limiter going with the wind when I can trim up.
@@FloBass Interesting, glad it helped! I was hitting the rev limiter with the old prop on mine 9.9x9. Mine is a F25hp. I just put a new 9.9x10 and gained 4mph. I found that people use this equation thing to find what to expect generally revs 5800÷ gear ratio 2.08x pitch 10 ÷ 1056 = 26.40mph which is almost what I got on my GPS. I'm guessing you could definitely get more out of the motor going up one pitch. I'd definitely be curious what kind of numbers it shows.
Trimming up lifts the bow and gets more of the boat out of the water so there's less drag. But I'll never know the performance gains of a new prop on this boat. I sold it March 2022.
Great video. Only suggestion is when reinstalling lower unit if it the drive shaft doesn’t go straight back in- say an inch short- pull the starter cord gently to line up everything- and it should go into place. This problem stumped me for a bit and I rang up a mechanic who gave me the tip for my F25.
Can I ask if have noticed your engine “making oil” with any of your oil changes? Read where others have noticed this maybe due to excessive trolling or something. I’m almost don’t with my break in and my oil does smell slightly like fuel although I haven’t noticed the oil level rise. Once I get my break I’m complete and my first oil change done I will likely run it wide open practically all of the time so it’s not a huge worry but I am curious.
Your oil will always have a little fuel smell. That is normal for all engines. Car, Truck, Boat, and other. Piston rings don't make a 100% perfect seal, and fuel vapor will make its way past the rings and into the crank case. As far as the oil level rising, the most common cause for that is prolonged low rpm operation and worn out piston rings. You don't get complete combustion with low rpm operation with no load on the motor, so more fuel vapors than normal will make their way into the crank case, and over long periods of time that fuel will start to cause a noticeable increase in oil level. It takes a while to do that, but it happens. I see that on carbureted motors a lot. They're less efficient at idle and tend to run rich when not wide open. The F25 is a fuel injected motor and it barely uses any fuel when idling. That's why its a very popular choice for people using it as a kicker engine who do a lot of trolling when they go fishing.
Its the TH Marine PT35. Its not a jack plate, its a power trim. My motor had manual trim and that's why I got the power tilt. Its pretty easy to install. Basically 4 holes drilled into your transom. You want to install it so that when the motor is mounted, the cavitation plate is level with the bottom of your boat. I installed mine an inch too high. Didn't give me too many issues, but I think the boat would have performed better if it were a little lower.
I may be wrong but I think if you run the motor with a hose hooked up to the flushing port, no water is going through the impeller. Your motor will be cooling but it may burn up the impeller from friction. I’m not 100% on this though. I know how can flush with that port without the engine running though.
@@FloBass Oh good to know. I thought maybe it had to bypass the thermostat which may not be open if it’s cool. I have the same motor but am only at ~8 hours break in.
Yea Yamaha doesn't recommend it however it does still lubricate the impeller, Ive never seen one adversely affected by using the flush port and think its a much safer method than muffs as the impeller is guaranteed adequate lubrication.
The 20 hour service is only for brand new outboards. It is very important to do because the engine oil, and gear case oil will have very fine metal deposits in it from the piston rings seating and gears seating themselves in. Once you reach the first 100 hours of your outboard, then you can perform all of the maintenance every 100 hours, or if you engine sits for a long time you would do this service once a year.
Water pump impeller change every year is overkill. I do mine every 3-4 years and never had issues or saw any cracks in the impeller. Your wasting money doing this every year.
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video. Extra Tips: Water Pump: You can get the whole Water Pump Repair Kit for $35, same cost as impeller only. On reassembly, lightly grease the impeller and rotate the crankshaft while pressing the housing down, it will go on like butter with vanes in correct direction. Replace the lower unit drain & fill plug washers every time, only an extra $5. Not worth risking getting water in your lower unit. Put anti sieze on the lower unit bolts! They are the most likely bolts to corrode on any motor. My spark plug torque is 12.5 FT - LB. Put a block of wood between the prop and cav plate to get the prop nut off. DO NOT RUN YOUR MOTOR WITH THE GARDEN HOSE CONNECTION. THE MOTOR WILL NOT COOL. Read your service manual!!
Excellent video, covering everything. Done these jobs before but this is a good refresher before I do mine tomorrow. Oil, filters etc loaded up in van and ready to go - thanks!
That Yamaha hose attachment for flushing is beautiful. Great feature.
Yes but DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR WITH IT! You will damage the motor. If you dont believe me, read your manual.
Gday mate good video you are the only person i have seen who does the same as i do and prime your filter with clean oil it amazes me i see pro mechs not do it i have always done it on my cars and bikes ,whoever sold you that pump ripped you off they come with two adaptors the yellow is for the merc and a silver one ( which you didnt get ) does the yamahas ,couple of tips when installing a new impellor rotate your shaft clockwise while gently pushing down on the water pump casing ,another grease on your bolts waterpump and lower leg also a small about of grease inside the impellor cover and on the seal/o ring on your drive shaft splines and also on your prop shaft .
Very helpful thank you! Just did this on a 15hp Yamaha I bought recently
Congratulations for this video, very didactic and goods advices. Regards from Argentina
Best service video I have seen! Fantastic job sir. Thank you.
I have a 2001 Yam 25 and your video gave me the confidence to service myself... Thanks for the assistance. :-)
Glad to hear! Thats so awesome!
Nobody does outboard maintenance better. Will be coming back to this one come winter time.
Outstanding video.
Awesome video, thank you!
Great Video, Thanks.
Thanks - the best so far - instructions video
Thanks, going to service my F15C next time by myself :)
I'm about to service my F20 in a couple of weeks. It's probably never been serviced like this. I'm a third owner of it. Can't complain about it whatsoever. Had issues with it staying primed when I first got it but new hoses and bulb solved that. Excellent video tutorial.
Great service review.
Eric first time i am on your channel, Thank you so much for an excellent tutorial video!! I am in a remote area of the South Pacific and really appreciate this info!!!
I’m happy it helped!
Good job. Really explanatory
Really nice explanation, thank you,I’m trying to get a brand new Yamaha 25 hp four stroke and I want to do all this procedures myself 👍
I'm glad you liked it. That's why I made this video. I know you can do it!
Very well done. Perfect for me.
Very well made video and excellent tutorial.
Perfect video! Thank you!!!
Well done sir
Dude great video. Love the 🇺🇸
excellent video!
Thanks for the video bro🤝
New subscriber. Loved your service video. Very concise and easy to follow. Two questions: What year is your motor? I have the same one built in 2009 and the oil drain and filler are in different places. Not that that it matters, I'm just curious. If there isn't a crush washer on the oil drain plug, should one be put on? Same with the lower drain and fill plugs... do they need washers? Recently I've used a 80-90 gear oil that comes in a squeeze bottle that allows me to jam it in the bottom filler and squeeze until the oil comes out the top. Not as elegant but it gets the job done. Thanks again for the video! Cheers, Rick
Hey Eric, great video, thanks! Quick tip for you if you haven't heard it already. When you're removing and replacing the prop, place a small block of wood between the top of the prop blade and the underside of the cavitation plate. It will prevent any injury to your hand and allows better (and easier) loosening and tightening of the prop nut. Cheers!
great info , the brass crush washer , would you know the part number for that item ?
Awesome Tutorial, bumpppp!!
Just bought a 2003 Yamaha 25hp 4 stroke basically just like this one. Do you have like a amazon list of all the products you used there? Would be awesome just to order it all and get it shipped to me. Our local marina is outrageous on pricing.
Você é um grande mecânico. 😊
Thanks so much
Great video - how do you like your power trim? I’ve got the same one being delivered to me on Monday.
Its great! The best modification I've done to the boat. One thing to take into consideration is the wiring. It needs to be protected and not left out to the elements. There are circuit breakers on the wiring that connects to the battery. They will become rusty, and eventually fail if they're not protected. Also, put a ton of dielectric grease on both relays. They have a rubber seal, but I still had both fail because moisture got inside. The grease will prevent that from happening. Same goes for the small inline glass fuse. Grease that baby up, and it will provide you with many years of trouble free service.
@@FloBass thanks, super helpful! Can’t wait to install it.
Love this video. Do you think you could do one of your guide setup, and how you go about getting bait?
I will, eventually. I’m not finished modifying the boat. When I can manage the time to do the floor, and a few other odds and ends I will do a full boat tour. As for baiting up, I’m reluctant to show that as there’s only one body of water I bait up on, and it’s already over pressured. I don’t need to contribute to the mess out there by people replicating what I’m showing in a video on that body of water.
@@FloBass I completely understand. As far as bait goes I am just looking for tips and pointers for finding/catching bait. Thank you for the reply and everything you do to help us noobers along the way.
@@MrJamesp2994 I'm still a n00b myself, lol. There are a lot of video's out there on baiting up, but if the 100 people who consistently watch my video's want me to do one, I'll have to figure something out.
The impeller was fine, that is the thing i never do myself, hate screw on this and link up the gear etc afterwards and i just destroy the engine, but as long as it works, i dont do anything and use the indikation water to see if it is bad.They last 500 hours with no problem.Oil i do often, every 50 hours and the 9,8 is no oil filter so extremely easy to change. If do it like this each 100 hours, the engine last easy 10 000
can you do a review on that cmc tilt trim? I have a F25 on my jon and would love your feedback!
Sold the boat a year ago. Can't do a review. Its awesome. Just get it. It's worth it just for transportation purposes alone. The thing is a beast.
It looked like the motor wasn't peeing at the final test.
I'm thinking about buying that CMC trim and tilt, but I'm curious have you noticed any performance improvements?
Yes absolutely. The ability to trim up while I'm running gets me about 3-5 mph more speed. It's to the point where I could get another prop because I bang the rev limiter going with the wind when I can trim up.
@@FloBass Interesting, glad it helped! I was hitting the rev limiter with the old prop on mine 9.9x9. Mine is a F25hp. I just put a new 9.9x10 and gained 4mph. I found that people use this equation thing to find what to expect generally revs 5800÷ gear ratio 2.08x pitch 10 ÷ 1056 = 26.40mph which is almost what I got on my GPS. I'm guessing you could definitely get more out of the motor going up one pitch. I'd definitely be curious what kind of numbers it shows.
Trimming up lifts the bow and gets more of the boat out of the water so there's less drag. But I'll never know the performance gains of a new prop on this boat. I sold it March 2022.
Great video. Only suggestion is when reinstalling lower unit if it the drive shaft doesn’t go straight back in- say an inch short- pull the starter cord gently to line up everything- and it should go into place. This problem stumped me for a bit and I rang up a mechanic who gave me the tip for my F25.
Question for you. I have the same outboard I picked mine up when you did your unboxing vid. What prop is on yours?? Looks so much bigger than mine
9 7/8" x 11 1/4"
Thanks for your help 👍
Can I ask if have noticed your engine “making oil” with any of your oil changes? Read where others have noticed this maybe due to excessive trolling or something. I’m almost don’t with my break in and my oil does smell slightly like fuel although I haven’t noticed the oil level rise. Once I get my break I’m complete and my first oil change done I will likely run it wide open practically all of the time so it’s not a huge worry but I am curious.
Your oil will always have a little fuel smell. That is normal for all engines. Car, Truck, Boat, and other. Piston rings don't make a 100% perfect seal, and fuel vapor will make its way past the rings and into the crank case. As far as the oil level rising, the most common cause for that is prolonged low rpm operation and worn out piston rings. You don't get complete combustion with low rpm operation with no load on the motor, so more fuel vapors than normal will make their way into the crank case, and over long periods of time that fuel will start to cause a noticeable increase in oil level. It takes a while to do that, but it happens. I see that on carbureted motors a lot. They're less efficient at idle and tend to run rich when not wide open. The F25 is a fuel injected motor and it barely uses any fuel when idling. That's why its a very popular choice for people using it as a kicker engine who do a lot of trolling when they go fishing.
Great video
Good video but fyi you used your oil filter wrench backwards.
I have the same boat and motor. What model jack plate you have? Was it easy to install? Thanks
Its the TH Marine PT35. Its not a jack plate, its a power trim. My motor had manual trim and that's why I got the power tilt. Its pretty easy to install. Basically 4 holes drilled into your transom. You want to install it so that when the motor is mounted, the cavitation plate is level with the bottom of your boat. I installed mine an inch too high. Didn't give me too many issues, but I think the boat would have performed better if it were a little lower.
@@FloBass Nice! Thanks for the response.
@@FloBass did you utilize the trim button on the engine tiller arm?
Have you got a video of changing anodes?
No, I don't.
Any chance you could put one together next time you service mate? I've been using your videos as massive guidance would really appreciate it
I may be wrong but I think if you run the motor with a hose hooked up to the flushing port, no water is going through the impeller. Your motor will be cooling but it may burn up the impeller from friction. I’m not 100% on this though. I know how can flush with that port without the engine running though.
On my outboard, water backfills and comes out the intake ports for the water pump when the hose is hooked up directly.
@@FloBass Oh good to know. I thought maybe it had to bypass the thermostat which may not be open if it’s cool. I have the same motor but am only at ~8 hours break in.
Yea Yamaha doesn't recommend it however it does still lubricate the impeller, Ive never seen one adversely affected by using the flush port and think its a much safer method than muffs as the impeller is guaranteed adequate lubrication.
Do not run the motor with the garden hose flush attachment adapter on top end of motor
Здравствуйте стальные винты не пробовали?
What fell down the hole when you were working on the impeller?
They key for the impeller. I think I mentioned that in the video, but it's been 2 years and I could be mistaken.
Short shaft motor ??
What the 20hour service should do? Is it really needed?
The 20 hour service is only for brand new outboards. It is very important to do because the engine oil, and gear case oil will have very fine metal deposits in it from the piston rings seating and gears seating themselves in. Once you reach the first 100 hours of your outboard, then you can perform all of the maintenance every 100 hours, or if you engine sits for a long time you would do this service once a year.
the vibration at idle though.
Bro. Can this motor Run for 200 km and don't stop ? i want to travel and go far ? Pls answer (200km=125miles)
If you bring enough fuel, it will run that far.
@@FloBass thank you so much
When’s the next service video?
There won't be one on this boat/motor. I sold it and moved onto a flats boat.
@@FloBass ah ok any videos for that boat?
I've been working on it. I'll have some videos, eventually.
👏👏👏🤜🤛
1st
2:39 correction thats because the "upper vent plug is still installed". 👍😃
Still don’t understand why people pump from the bottom
Allows the air to escape to ensure it fills completely.
Water pump impeller change every year is overkill. I do mine every 3-4 years and never had issues or saw any cracks in the impeller. Your wasting money doing this every year.
I'd rather "waste" $25 on an impeller kit and replace it every year and be confident its in tip top shape an hour from the boat ramp than not.