@9:48 Bendix is an American company. All drum brake systems in today's modern passenger vehicles are base on the 1950s Bendix design. In the U.S. Bendix is a tier 1 supplier and I've used brakes pads from them without issue.
All variable speed (electronic climate ) VAG fans use current detection when starting, if the control module detects overcurrent it isolates the fan. Once the behind dash area warms up the motor can then work on subsequent starts. They suffer sticky bearings / brushes when old.
Once this happened to a friends Vauxhall Vectra, owner kicked it at got it going again for nearly half a year, it had gotten moisture to the bottom of the blower motor and the drain hole in the motor was clogged. The moisture made a mess of the brushes and the motor burnt out.
Love your videos they have saved me a few quid being able to do some repairs myself thanks to your videos. I would like to see a more professional side to john with more input on the videos
I’d recommend inspecting the blower motor resistor. Could be on the way out but best to wait for complete failure instead of jumping to conclusions or you’ll be chasing your tail
I had an Audi A3 with the same problem. get in and no fans. sometimes a good whack under the glove box was enough to get it working again, but eventually changed the blower motor and all was good.
18:35 “He started kicking under the glove box and it worked fine”. That’s your clue. The carbon brushes in the motor were not making contact with the commutator, probably because they have worn with age. Any physical shock to the motor that is enough to dislodge the carbon brushes, just slightly, so they again make contact will make the motor run again. Further physical shocks almost never make it stop working, only more wear will do that, and it takes time. Sometimes, the braided tails from the carbon brushes are not dressed properly within the motor and do not allow full movement of the brushes as they wear, giving a similar effect.
Thank you for your help. It hasn’t stopped working since we visited this vehicle last, funnily enough. Owner is still waiting for it to completely fail 😅
Definitely blower motor. Common issue. They develop a mind of their own when they go bad. Replaced mine recently as it would only work when it felt like it.
The brake pads might have been cheap, but the other 3 pads were perfectly fine, the knackered one just got hot from being seized and started to fall apart. Mintex Ceratec grease is what you need, I've used it for years 👍
Intermittent problems need a different diagnosis method. I come from mainframe computer repair and this is how i would attack your problem. Im just DIY with cars… 1 what could the problem possibly be? What can’t it be? 2 if it could be either the fan or the resistor replace the cheapest one and wait for recurrence. Then at least the customer got something for the money. And next time it happens you know what it isn’t. 3 temporally attache an indicator light to the motor and get the owner to observe it when it fails next. Move the light if needed. Even so, I have an intermittent can bus fault at the moment and it has got me struggling. It been OK now for a week but last week it faulted with loads of U type dtc’s several times a day for days. Only happens on the road not in the driveway… especially after rain…
Hi, Keep up the good work :) I do like these HVAC issue's (NOT) In your case I would check Fan relay then both temperature sensors, then I would be checking the switch gear.
I would say that caliper has been sticking, that disc has got hot which then compounds the problem which then I turn causes the pads to stick. I wouldn't be surprised if that happens again on that side, the caliper seals will be shot as they've got too hot.
I’m sure you don’t need to put the brake into service mode on these Vauxhalls as the e brake is not on the calliper it’s a motor that pulls on the handbrake cable. Regardless great vid and excellent knowledge keep up the good work ❤
it's a Blower motor brush , lots of dust over the time been used build up and loosing connection, that happened on my car 2 year ago , I opened it and cleaned it then started working again till last week stopped again then I replaced happy day.
I didn't quite see in the video you pumping the brake pedal to set and align the caliper piston with the inner brake pad before the re-cal. Failing to do that can cause the misalignment and brake pad to kink, maybe have cause the Bendix inner pad to have the type of wear you described. My experience with these types of brake systems the aggressive wear on rear brake pads is sometimes caused by the active stability control(traction control), where via the ABS activates the brake calipers. It's a combination of the driver's driving style and design, as the traction control is designed to wear the pads so manufacturers can sell more parts(for inexperienced driver's safety). I'm a mobile mechanic myself and I've been in the industry for 17 years... I enjoy your content and keep up the good work.
Any idea what would cause strong diesel smoke on start up for about 20secs, also sometimes difficult to start on cold mornings, 2008 transit connect tdci No faults logged in the system
If all electrical supply test on a4 blower motor pass . Then id recommend pulling blower motor out and replace with new. classic sign of worn brushes when you give it a whack, and it starts up. assuming all connections are tight and free from corrosion. sometimes you just have to make the call.. Loving your channel, wish i had your energy.
Tell me about it bruv. Same here I have an annoying intermittent noise whenever I release the clutch pedal. Funny how on the days I switch off the radio /music in the, try hear the noise, that day, night or morning drive, I won't hear it at all. It happens once or twice in a week, 4 day's maybe, or some days it doesn't happen at all. Any idea what it might be bruv?
Sorry to be saying this but from being in the motor trade for over 40 years I would like to give you a bit of friendly advise. Never use wd40 on rubber parts as you did on the the dust seal to lubricate it as wd40 tends to make the rubber swell up causes it to deteriate which then defeats the seals purpose. Regards jeremy
Agree.....i made the mistake of putting WD40 on a caliper i was trying to wind back. It killed the rubber.....it swelled up. I had to put a new caliper on in the end so no harm done. Each to there own anyway.
Is Bendix any good? bendix pads are just as good as any other brake oad out there. My friends dad is an engineer for bendix, He knows a TON about brakes, they have a nice aggressive pad which works wonders and never have any noise.20 Jan 2006
yeah resistor pack failure, or motor brushes i has same issue turned out it was motor had failed, but do easiest first,, resistor pack if still does it ,, brushes on motor have failed,
could this of been my issue i had on a w205 c class 2.0 56k miles......? p001685 takes and extra secound to crank and a slight smell on petrol in the oil? runs fine.
The thing with this king bolen is that you won't get bidirectional control with it, unless yoy pay 50$/ year for each make. So, if you are a mechanic, it is not worthy, because it gets way more expensive than more capable scantools (50$ × 7 makes= 350$/ year)
My friend on the insignia it not the cheap pad to be worn that made it wear like that, It's the car wash using wrong chemicals The car wash chemicals, stays in the brake pad friction materials It takes a very long time to dry, specially if you are not driving the car much So it's not your fault
You are wrong and i feel the need to correct you about using BENDIX brake pads. Im not going to go into too much detail about but ill try and keep it brief. I live in Australia and bendix was a well known and used brand here and i had discovered because of this a lot of counterfeits were out there on the market. Even legitimate companies would supply fake bendix parts without realizing it. I new a spare parts guy very well and he would sell me at the time 2000'sh era a pair of front bendix brakes for roughly $80 to $120 depending on the model of the car. Someone told me that there was a spareparts shop that sold top quality parts for very low prices, so i went to check them out and this is what i found. My friend the spare parts guy would sell me these pads for $90 something dollars and this place would give me the exact same for roughly $35. To cut a long story short, i told my friend this and he was shocked, so he started his own investigation on how it was possible. He and then I found out that they werent proper bendix bads and they were a counterfeit pads, my friend said he contacted the main supplier in Australia or head office of Bendix and it turns out that this was a huge issue and was aware about counterfeits entering the black market. There were small tell tale signs on how to tell the difference, like the logo wasnt printed right, the shade of blue was very slightly off, etc... All i know is that we couldnt spot the difference and we thought this particular shop was somehow getting these pads off the back of the truck, so to speak. It wasnt until speaking with the official bendix person that we could tell the difference. ive been out of the game since 2010 so i dont really know how bad it is now, here in australia with counterfeiting, but perhaps you just was unlucky and got either a faulty or counterfeited bendix brakes, as i have been buying them all my life and have never ever had an issue with them at all. but here in Australia they are expensive.
Re the brakes......if your customer has driven 16000 miles pretending to be Lewis Hamilton then those old brakes look about right. It's the heat that kills them..... Poor drivers cause early component failure as well as poor quality parts. They usually go hand in hand. Caliper is also probs on the way out .......
Can u say why, when I worked in motor vehicle at college they advocated mucho copper grease on brakes except sliders to prevent squealing, thanks in advance
@@volt8684 as you have said what happens to copper grease after a while it turns back to metal essentially due to movement so I’ve been told whereas just on a nut and bolt it’s fine
The reason why IMI and other institutions is releasing new courses/refresher courses is because of new findings. It’s likely that colleges are still using old findings. Best to have refresher course every 3-5 years just in case. I’ve taken a whole lot now and to be honest, because of it, I’ve saved myself time for following new guidance
Auto electrician, i realise you know your stuff, but sometimes a fresh set of hands can help, i ,m ok with mechanicals, but electrical faults can be frustrating.
I was recommending an auto electrician at the very beginning of my reply, i don,t specialise in electronics, i myself am a motorcycle (AND occasionally a car) mechanic and thankfully, encounter very little electrical problems@@pammy5260
You made bad job and customer did not service the brakes yearly. Yes, these need every year service, even if pads and discs does not need the replacement. Nobody cares, that is the result and it can kill easily somebody
You don’t need a scan tool to release electric handbrake on insignia. You talk bollocks the calliper is clearly sized why hasn’t the other side worn the same? Also a faulty cam sensor would not make a vivaro smoke like it did obviously the injectors are fxxked
@9:48 Bendix is an American company. All drum brake systems in today's modern passenger vehicles are base on the 1950s Bendix design. In the U.S. Bendix is a tier 1 supplier and I've used brakes pads from them without issue.
As for Bendix brakes, I have never used them myself but look what I have found...
16:02 customer is turning the radio volume nob thinking it’s the blower control 😂
All variable speed (electronic climate ) VAG fans use current detection when starting, if the control module detects overcurrent it isolates the fan. Once the behind dash area warms up the motor can then work on subsequent starts. They suffer sticky bearings / brushes when old.
Once this happened to a friends Vauxhall Vectra, owner kicked it at got it going again for nearly half a year, it had gotten moisture to the bottom of the blower motor and the drain hole in the motor was clogged. The moisture made a mess of the brushes and the motor burnt out.
The blower motor behind the glove box in all VW Audi Skoda group develope an intermittent fault, had to replace mine 2 weeks ago, 100% it's the motor
Love your videos they have saved me a few quid being able to do some repairs myself thanks to your videos. I would like to see a more professional side to john with more input on the videos
This channel doesn't show how to do repairs it's a follow me as I work type of channel
I will make another channel to show repairs. Just depends on difficult it will be in the case of editing etc…
@@Arounadabout it’s a good watch along as I have done basic repairs myself through watching your channel that I otherwise wouldn’t of attempted
I’d recommend inspecting the blower motor resistor. Could be on the way out but best to wait for complete failure instead of jumping to conclusions or you’ll be chasing your tail
I had an Audi A3 with the same problem. get in and no fans. sometimes a good whack under the glove box was enough to get it working again, but eventually changed the blower motor and all was good.
Brilliant video again 👏 just saying from North of Newcastle 🇬🇧
18:35 “He started kicking under the glove box and it worked fine”.
That’s your clue. The carbon brushes in the motor were not making contact with the commutator, probably because they have worn with age. Any physical shock to the motor that is enough to dislodge the carbon brushes, just slightly, so they again make contact will make the motor run again. Further physical shocks almost never make it stop working, only more wear will do that, and it takes time.
Sometimes, the braided tails from the carbon brushes are not dressed properly within the motor and do not allow full movement of the brushes as they wear, giving a similar effect.
Thank you for your help. It hasn’t stopped working since we visited this vehicle last, funnily enough. Owner is still waiting for it to completely fail 😅
Definitely blower motor. Common issue. They develop a mind of their own when they go bad. Replaced mine recently as it would only work when it felt like it.
Maybe final stage resistor for the fan? Get the same on BMWs. Can start acting up, then goes full poweere or just stops randomely.
Corrosion or bad solder on the blower fan resistor, at times you'll start losing different blower fan speeds.
The brake pads might have been cheap, but the other 3 pads were perfectly fine, the knackered one just got hot from being seized and started to fall apart.
Mintex Ceratec grease is what you need, I've used it for years 👍
You saw the other pads, right? The material was falling apart. Don’t think that one was due to heat soak 🤔
Intermittent problems need a different diagnosis method. I come from mainframe computer repair and this is how i would attack your problem. Im just DIY with cars…
1 what could the problem possibly be? What can’t it be?
2 if it could be either the fan or the resistor replace the cheapest one and wait for recurrence. Then at least the customer got something for the money. And next time it happens you know what it isn’t.
3 temporally attache an indicator light to the motor and get the owner to observe it when it fails next. Move the light if needed.
Even so, I have an intermittent can bus fault at the moment and it has got me struggling. It been OK now for a week but last week it faulted with loads of U type dtc’s several times a day for days. Only happens on the road not in the driveway… especially after rain…
Hi, Keep up the good work :) I do like these HVAC issue's (NOT) In your case I would check Fan relay then both temperature sensors, then I would be checking the switch gear.
Hi great videos, the cost of the jobs would be of interest as the high cost of car repairs varies so much.
Replace blow motor and resistor together, common issue when working in main dealer
I would say that caliper has been sticking, that disc has got hot which then compounds the problem which then I turn causes the pads to stick. I wouldn't be surprised if that happens again on that side, the caliper seals will be shot as they've got too hot.
Check ohms resistance on the motor and resistor to make sure they are in spec. Will be surprised if it's not the resistor
I will be going back there at some point. Will check on that. Thank you for your suggestion!
Another great video from Marvelous! ✨
I’m sure you don’t need to put the brake into service mode on these Vauxhalls as the e brake is not on the calliper it’s a motor that pulls on the handbrake cable. Regardless great vid and excellent knowledge keep up the good work ❤
Can you guys move to Toronto?! My car needs fixing, by good mechanics!! lmao
it's a Blower motor brush , lots of dust over the time been used build up and loosing connection, that happened on my car 2 year ago , I opened it and cleaned it then started working again till last week stopped again then I replaced happy day.
Not dusty at all when I checked. I thought that too but definitely not. I will be checking voltages and resistance for when we re-visit
I didn't quite see in the video you pumping the brake pedal to set and align the caliper piston with the inner brake pad before the re-cal. Failing to do that can cause the misalignment and brake pad to kink, maybe have cause the Bendix inner pad to have the type of wear you described. My experience with these types of brake systems the aggressive wear on rear brake pads is sometimes caused by the active stability control(traction control), where via the ABS activates the brake calipers. It's a combination of the driver's driving style and design, as the traction control is designed to wear the pads so manufacturers can sell more parts(for inexperienced driver's safety). I'm a mobile mechanic myself and I've been in the industry for 17 years... I enjoy your content and keep up the good work.
Any idea what would cause strong diesel smoke on start up for about 20secs, also sometimes difficult to start on cold mornings, 2008 transit connect tdci
No faults logged in the system
Could that intermittent blower be an issue with the loom connector at the blower resistor?
Is it possible something got stuck in the blower fan?
A4 will need blower motor chances are brushes are worn down, and they stick intermittently.
Can you tell the people which car is the best make and model l love the show.
If all electrical supply test on a4 blower motor pass . Then id recommend pulling blower motor out and replace with new. classic sign of worn brushes when you
give it a whack, and it starts up. assuming all connections are tight and free from corrosion. sometimes you just have to make the call.. Loving your channel, wish i
had your energy.
Have you tried turning it off and on again
New subscriber here. Love learning new shit.
Tell me about it bruv. Same here I have an annoying intermittent noise whenever I release the clutch pedal. Funny how on the days I switch off the radio /music in the, try hear the noise, that day, night or morning drive, I won't hear it at all. It happens once or twice in a week, 4 day's maybe, or some days it doesn't happen at all. Any idea what it might be bruv?
Akebono pads are top quality if they do them for that vehicle failing that I always use Brembo.
Sorry to be saying this but from being in the motor trade for over 40 years I would like to give you a bit of friendly advise. Never use wd40 on rubber parts as you did on the the dust seal to lubricate it as wd40 tends to make the rubber swell up causes it to deteriate which then defeats the seals purpose.
Regards jeremy
Agree.....i made the mistake of putting WD40 on a caliper i was trying to wind back. It killed the rubber.....it swelled up.
I had to put a new caliper on in the end so no harm done.
Each to there own anyway.
Oh bummer I’ve used it on my rubber sun roof seals for year wonder if that’s why they leaked. Thanks
I would agree but all depends how quickly the rubber is cleaned after the oil application , rubber soaked in oil for long period of time 100% yes
Wd40 will dry out rubber and cause it to split
Is Bendix any good?
bendix pads are just as good as any other brake oad out there. My friends dad is an engineer for bendix, He knows a TON about brakes, they have a nice aggressive pad which works wonders and never have any noise.20 Jan 2006
That van should go into the ulez zone definitely ulez 😂😂
I had to make sure!
@@themarvelousvlog😂😂 old vivaro sadly won’t be compliant
Don’t even think it will pass LEZ 😂
Definitely not
Do you have a relay tester they may test that better as it keeps latching them etc and will detect a fault better?
Blower motor switch?
I reckon thats the resistor breaking down
yeah resistor pack failure, or motor brushes i has same issue turned out it was motor had failed, but do easiest first,, resistor pack if still does it ,, brushes on motor have failed,
What did you do to John.... He looked happy the whole video 😅😅😅...
Skope voltage accross vs current on a long timebase and wait for it to fail. Volts and no current means bad motor or the motors connection.
I hate customers picking parts, If Im going to warranty my work im choosing the parts I fit simple as.....👍👌👍
Always mate 💯
I used eicher pads on a car the other day the quality was cheap but the customer wanted the cheaper option we normally fit Pagid or brembo
If they don’t ask for the ‘cheapest’, straight Pagid/Brembo
@@themarvelousvlogI agree it’s always Mann Mahle Bosch
final stage resistor for the fan
That King bolen K7 is rather fast..!!!
could this of been my issue i had on a w205 c class 2.0 56k miles......? p001685 takes and extra secound to crank and a slight smell on petrol in the oil? runs fine.
Be nice to know how much you charge for these brake jobs that are a pain.?
11:16 two bob uncle roger…. 😂
The thing with this king bolen is that you won't get bidirectional control with it, unless yoy pay 50$/ year for each make. So, if you are a mechanic, it is not worthy, because it gets way more expensive than more capable scantools (50$ × 7 makes= 350$/ year)
What do you use instead of copper grease?
Ceratec by Textar/Pagid/TMD. Actually made for brakes
Those insignias eat pads mate, I worked at the dealer when they were new and it was a daily occurrence changing them
And the right too, which always seems strange
My friend on the insignia it not the cheap pad to be worn that made it wear like that,
It's the car wash using wrong chemicals
The car wash chemicals, stays in the brake pad friction materials
It takes a very long time to dry, specially if you are not driving the car much
So it's not your fault
My diesel car with the DPF stripped out produces less smoke than that.
You can get cut conduit thats good for wiring
Blower motor for sure
Look at the state of that battery voltage!
Only because its actuating the pistons but yeah, its under 12V 🥲
The resistors for the fan are suspect. It should work on low and high but not the other settings. Thats how you know its the resistors.
Blower motor needs changing 👍
Blower motor resistor gone bad
Motor brushes most likely good work
I’m sure elec parking brake are push back
You are wrong and i feel the need to correct you about using BENDIX brake pads.
Im not going to go into too much detail about but ill try and keep it brief.
I live in Australia and bendix was a well known and used brand here and i had discovered because of this a lot of counterfeits were out there on the market. Even legitimate companies would supply fake bendix parts without realizing it.
I new a spare parts guy very well and he would sell me at the time 2000'sh era a pair of front bendix brakes for roughly $80 to $120 depending on the model of the car.
Someone told me that there was a spareparts shop that sold top quality parts for very low prices, so i went to check them out and this is what i found.
My friend the spare parts guy would sell me these pads for $90 something dollars and this place would give me the exact same for roughly $35.
To cut a long story short, i told my friend this and he was shocked, so he started his own investigation on how it was possible. He and then I found out that they werent proper bendix bads and they were a counterfeit pads, my friend said he contacted the main supplier in Australia or head office of Bendix and it turns out that this was a huge issue and was aware about counterfeits entering the black market.
There were small tell tale signs on how to tell the difference, like the logo wasnt printed right, the shade of blue was very slightly off, etc...
All i know is that we couldnt spot the difference and we thought this particular shop was somehow getting these pads off the back of the truck, so to speak. It wasnt until speaking with the official bendix person that we could tell the difference.
ive been out of the game since 2010 so i dont really know how bad it is now, here in australia with counterfeiting, but perhaps you just was unlucky and got either a faulty or counterfeited bendix brakes, as i have been buying them all my life and have never ever had an issue with them at all. but here in Australia they are expensive.
Brief,
🤬ing hell that's a script ( laughing )
😃@@sheffcitys2forgedinsteel255
yeah kinda got carried away
Resistor for sure on intermitted operation
So did you give this customer some money of for using cheaper parts last time .and causing this problem...?
Came to the comments to see if this has been asked .
We all hate intermittent faults!!! Absolute infuriating little buggers!
id check motor carbon brushes and resistar
I’m watching this video, let’s just say.
Re the brakes......if your customer has driven 16000 miles pretending to be Lewis Hamilton then those old brakes look about right.
It's the heat that kills them.....
Poor drivers cause early component failure as well as poor quality parts. They usually go hand in hand.
Caliper is also probs on the way out .......
Simple lesson, don’t use copper grease on anything that moves and you’ll be fine 👍
Can u say why, when I worked in motor vehicle at college they advocated mucho copper grease on brakes except sliders to prevent squealing, thanks in advance
@@volt8684 as you have said what happens to copper grease after a while it turns back to metal essentially due to movement so I’ve been told whereas just on a nut and bolt it’s fine
The reason why IMI and other institutions is releasing new courses/refresher courses is because of new findings. It’s likely that colleges are still using old findings. Best to have refresher course every 3-5 years just in case. I’ve taken a whole lot now and to be honest, because of it, I’ve saved myself time for following new guidance
@@themarvelousvlog forgot to say absolutely loving your channel and learning a lot from you 👍
Actuator motors on Audi are shit mine dose the same
Using the gizzmo to re program brakes does that mean a diy,er cant do there own brske pad chsnge any more without diognostic tool
could be the brushes sticking, could be the wiring connections back to the fuse board . you have to get out of the van and apply yourself
I wont fit customers parts full stop
Auto electrician, i realise you know your stuff, but sometimes a fresh set of hands can help, i ,m ok with mechanicals, but electrical faults can be frustrating.
Why are electrical faults more frustrating when this is what you specialise in?
I was recommending an auto electrician at the very beginning of my reply, i don,t specialise in electronics, i myself am a motorcycle (AND occasionally a car) mechanic and thankfully, encounter very little electrical problems@@pammy5260
I want a LETS' JUST SAY T Shirt
Hahaha! That’s coming. I’ve noticed I say it A LOT!
No sound bud
This is youtube. Wait about 30 mins. Sorry!
@@themarvelousvlogsound working now
You made bad job and customer did not service the brakes yearly. Yes, these need every year service, even if pads and discs does not need the replacement. Nobody cares, that is the result and it can kill easily somebody
You don’t need a scan tool to release electric handbrake on insignia. You talk bollocks the calliper is clearly sized why hasn’t the other side worn the same? Also a faulty cam sensor would not make a vivaro smoke like it did obviously the injectors are fxxked
nice dog cute
His name is Tom
what do you use instead of copper grease?
Ceratec by Textar/Pagid/TMD. Actually made for brakes