Beaver's Hobby so would yo say amr and the drz are on the same level which would you say is better as I’ve heard nothing about amr and would like to hear more about it
@@driftzone5586 DRZ is based on AMR. Basically DRZ is AMR drift mod. I also have review for DRZ too if you are interested. They are RWD cars with fully adjustable double wishbone suspension.
@SuPreme OpZ No, you'll have to buy them all separately including wheels. This is kit car so it'll come with chassis and some electronics if you choose the package with ESC, servo and motor as I said in the video.
I love these videos, you’re always very precise and logical with your technical information. I bought the k958 from Banggood because of your videos. Banggood should give you commission.
I got some small commission when people buy from my affiliate links in the description. But as long as you have fun without spending a fortune that's good enough for me.
I just finished mine two days ago. I run into the same problem in gear mesh, but I follow the advice on the rctech which used double-sided tape stuck onto the aluminum motor mount and give the mount more grip. Also, the servo saver is useless and I had to use a servo horn instead. The other problems includes uneven toe angle (This is a lot of toe-in for the rear. But eyeballing maybe inaccurate), and kyosho's body clip touching the motor. But I am very fortunately that there is no missing parts, bindy suspension or overtightened diff from the factory. For the price, even counting in your own electronic, it is well below kyosho's AWD offering yet should be able to outperfom it on track. With all that said, I hope ATM understands the importance of quality control. Some people have just received BZ3 which is still missing parts. We are talking about a company which is making maybe fifth or sixth kits, not the first one （AMZ）. If they wish to reach a wider customer base, the quality control and plastic parts needs some serious work. Also I notice the kit's content seems to different from batch to batch, In your kit you have the adjustable front toe link and 1.5 camber upper arm. Mine has fixed toe link and 1 camber upper arm.
Atomic does have quality control issue. My DRZ got a ball link without screw thread and a lot of misalignment. The car was $200 and I was shocked. I'm so happy this kit doesn't have anything missing and everything fits together perfectly.
Regarding the Problem with the Servo saver arm: what i did was stripping the screw off its thread with some pliers. About 3mm at the tip. Just enough that it fits in the hole of the Servo shaft. Because the screw the manual tells me to use clearly doesnt fit. Now you can push the Servo saver arm easily on to the Servo shaft.
Great review. I think it works best at 94mm wheelbase. I use it for a cross between touring and drift racing. It's just as Beaver says, very predictable.
Omg, this is great! I've been wanting to change my k989 over to something because its so imprecise, and I use it as a loaner car to drive against me at home, and this would be the perfect cheap solution! I can just get the chassis and transfer all the electronics ive put into the 989 over to the amz! I've also got some spare motors from my mini z I might swap in to keep it all equal.
Thank you so much for your TH-cam programs. I love Mini Z'S and the 1/28-1/27th cars spawn my them. From the MR01 introduction (while I was working at a hobby shop) I thought great cars that cost too much for it's market. You need to have cheap fun cars first. Get people interested in the fun. Give them fun reliable, cheap and quick. Their competitive side will drive the precise, close-tolerance of highly competitive chassis designs (expensive). I want to start my own club with a low-cost, entry level spec class of RTR 1/28th or even 1/18th cars. Get them Hooked on the Fun First. ALL the rest will follow.
Exactly! Now that the price has gone down micro RC (actually RC in general) has become much more accessible. People can try if this hobby is right for them and move to better car or leave it without big hole in their pocket. AMZ is really good for club racing because the spare parts are mostly easy to find. WLtoys K989 is another one that is much cheaper to start and has spare parts. However the stock radio is not that good and might leave a bad impression on someone who just started the hobby.
Eagle Racing solid axle is what I use. You can also use the included ball differentials and tighten them to lock. One way from Kyosho will need to grind the gearbox out a bit to fit. Mini-Q and Eagle Racing one way will fit directly. However Mini-Q one way has changed and now it got sharp gears that will chew the pinion.
@@BeaversHobby Hi and thanx. I cant find Eagle solid axles somehow. Does Kyosho solid axle the trick too? I meant does it fits? (rc.kyosho.com/en/mdw024.html) And they also have one way diff. (rc.kyosho.com/en/mdw017.html). Does it fit? I have tightened original diffs on AMZ but still I can move them by hand. And, many thanx for your pointing to AMZ, I am really exited how easily it drifts. Even without gyro. So I am selling my trq1 out cause after amz its feels as piece of crap. .
@@BeaversHobby One more question: somehow ESC on AMZ cuts off lipo at 7.6V instead of normal 6V. I cant to find any manuals how to adjust this cutoff. There no manual at all on Atomic site and on HW site. Could you advice please, how to set this cut off parameter?
@@Weaselpro The Kyosho stuffs are a bit too thick as I said earlier so you'll have to grind the gearbox a bit to make them fit. However they are great quality and I highly recommend both one way and solid axle. As for the high cut-off. You'll have to find a Hobbywing programming card. The one for EZrun will work too. And set the menu 2 to change the cut-off voltage. 1 = off 2 = 2.6V/cell (5.2V) 3 = 2.8V/cell (5.6V) 4 = 3V/cell (6V) 5 = 3.2V/cell (6.4V) 6 = 3.4V/cell (6.8V) I highly recommend no. 5 to get 6.4V because 6V is a tad too low.
@@Weaselpro I forgot to mention you can hold the button and set it like Hobbywing EZrun too. Try and find manual for EZrun and you'll see how to set with just the button on the ESC. Then go to menu 2 and did what I said earlier.
Is there somewhere i can get the full kit with the recommended upgrades included for extra all in one neat package? Do you have a store you cant put the parts together into a mega kit?
Links are in the description. Unfortunately they don't bundle the steering upgrade with the kit so you'll have to buy that separately. The wheels depends on the body you choose. Nowadays you will have the wheels with the body so that's nothing to worry about. As for the shop it depends on where you are, if you are in the US you can contact WolframRC www.wolframrc.com/ or micro rc syndicate www.microrcsyndicate.com/ and ask them if they can setup a complete package for you.
The Atomic servo uses JST-ZH 1.5mm 3 pin plug. It's the common plug for 1/28 racing cars so you can get a bag of it to convert your electronics and receiver.
Either Mini-Q TRQ1 or WLtoys K969/K989. TRQ1 is a good chassis but electronics is fragile. This one is a gamble. If the circuit board hold up it will be the best car to start. Other components are quite durable. Overall it doesn't drive as well as WLtoys and it doesn't have much headroom to modify. WLtoys is the fastest in the budget category and has a lot of headroom to upgrade and modify. However the plastic is brittle and gears wear out very quickly. K989 and K969 are essentially the same car. K989 is rally/touring because it comes with open gear diff and grip tyres. K969 is labelled as drift car because it comes with solid axles (permanently locked diffs) and drift tyres. Choose whichever body you like because you'll want to change the tyres anyway and a differential can be locked later. However it will need a bit of fixing to get it to work. I have entire video series for that. But just to get it working properly, follow episode 1 and 2. th-cam.com/play/PLS79G3YjA2fAEez9GVeLW3JIy_LUIb6Mb.html In conclusion, you have to choose between dodgy electronics from TRQ1 or fragile gears from WLToys.
For AWD/4WD drifting, this AMZ is one of the best. You can get car and parts from miracle-mart.com . It's a bit hard to mod it to CS so if you want a better car to do CS then I suggets Mini-Q Q7. You can get the car from banggood.com and parts from hobbyking.com under "turnigy tz4" and "mini-q" name, also at aliexpress with "mini-q mosquito car" name. As for RWD drifting, right now Atomic DRZ is the best to get in terms of durability and part support. you can get it from miracle-mart.com .
@@thatonebeone This XRX DPA drifts better than DRZ but it's brittle. It can break even from minimal driving. Some say there's a new batch which is better so you'd better ask them if they got the improved parts.
Yes, you can just lock the original diffs to drift. They're ball differential so you just tighten them and they will be locked diff. Also change the front to one way if you like.
I just finished building this car. It was fun to build, but I still have a few issues to sort out. The motor pinion gear is too tight and came off, so I will have to adjust the gear mesh. I am not sure on the differential shims that you showed in this video. What was the purpose? Also there is too much space between the wheel lock nut and the wheels, so I will have to correct that as well.
The 6x8 shim on differential is to adjust the diff gear position (crown gear) to mesh with pinion gear on prop shaft correctly. Mostly it'll be too far and the gear will slip causing them to wear out prematurely or won't send power to the wheel. If you have problem at the wheels then you'll need 3.1x4.5 shim to fix the fitment of the wheel shaft. ppm-rcracing.com/products/3.1-x-4.5mm-Stainless-Steel-Shim-Set-%280.1%2C-0.2%2C-0.3mm-10%7B47%7Dea%29.html Also 3x5 from Atomic www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1020_1023&products_id=13815
I finally finished building my first one. Ran into an issue, not sure why my gear is so stiff. I replaced the front one way and ridged rear with mini q’s but they seemed to fit well so not sure where it went wrong.
Check the gear mesh on both front and rear gearboxes first. You might have to shim them especially the front one way if the gear doesn't meet the pinion. Put it together without motor first and see if it's still smooth and can roll easily. If not you'll have too loosen the gearboxes and move them around so they line up properly. Then move on to the motor. Setting gear mesh there is a bit difficult but slowly screwing it in and keep checking the smoothness will do just fine.
@@BeaversHobby That was it! thank you! i regret not checking youtube for your answer before trying it myself....i broke one of the wheel shaft in the process haha...noob mistake. Now to wait for a month for the replacement parts....so far fun, i'm enjoying the process of it all. Thanks for your videos, got me into it lol
Hi Beaver! I have a question. So I have a wltoys k989 that broke the first day I got it from a drop. Does all of those electronics fit in this chassis without replacing them?
Yes, it does. But for the servo if your Wltoys has one mounting arm because the other side is cut then you'll either have to stick it down with double-sided tape or get a new servo.
Yes, this is still the same 3 wire system just like any other RC. The only difference is the plug, it's JST-ZH 1.5mm instead of JR/Futaba plug you use in other scale. You can make JST to JR adapter or just convert the plug to JR to match your receiver. A word of warning though, Spektrum has quite big receivers so choose one that would be small enough to fit inside the body.
Yes, you can swap the electronics (I've also mentioned this in the video). However K989 cut one arm out of the servo so you might have to get a new one so you can screw it in the mount. Otherwise just just a double sided tape.
Hey, i dont know if this is happening to everyone but one Thing i have to mention: If you get the hyper steering Upgrade, you better have a Radio where you can Set Servo Limits (the Stock WL Toys doesnt) Thats the reason i broke my new kyosho Front way diff. The reason: when i full steered, the rods moved so much that they moved the gearbox a Bit. Hope that helps you
You can either make the lower tie rod with smaller head (3.5mm ball caps got a few to choose from) or use the hyper steering kit. It can only turn until the knuckle hit the gearbox. Wheelbase also helps. With 94mm wheelbase + hyper steering I got is around 37cm turning circle. Is that enough for Dnano track?
@@BeaversHobby Ok, I think that may be enough if this 'hyper steering kit' is still about to buy. This was the test fail although track is at my brothers so cannot measure right now.drive.google.com/file/d/1WDoJsVTSlrUGvlZGCPDjOVsGT0fRHdRN/view?usp=sharing
Check out. www.srcc-devils.de/ Here it is. www.srcc-devils.de/ATOMIC/AMZ001-EXKT-ATOMIC-AMZ-4WD-Chassis-1-27-Mini-4WD-Touring-Car-mit-Motor-.htm?a=article&ProdNr=280343&p=1002
@@Ymerstudios That depends on what you have already and what kind of electronics and transmitter you will be using. If you already have everything from transmitter to battery and charger, it'll be about $180 for the car with electronics, wheels+tyres and a body. If you haven't got anything yet you are looking at about $290. Basically $110 extra for a battery, a good charger and a decent transmitter. Remember, these 3 things are what you will be keep using for years to come so it's more of an investment at this point.
They are not ball diffs in this build. The front is Sinohobby front one way and the rear is Eagle Racing solid axle. If you want to use the ball diffs, the original ones that come with the kit are good already.
You can hold the button to program it like EZrun. Here's the manual. www.hobbywing.com/products/enpdf/EzRun60A.pdf However the program is different. Here's program table. imgur.com/AwBHACd
im looking inta buying this chassis, the problem is due to some money problems i have to try and build the car as cheap as possible. i probably have a battery that fits and i have a transmitter en reciever that might work but i dont have that type of motor and i have a mini servo but idk if that works. can u send me a link to a place or links for individual parts like the motor etc?
Understood. I have worked out the most economical way of building this chassis. First, get the chassis with ESC. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_1037_1040&products_id=13055 It'll be $14 more than bare chassis but this ESC is better than anything up to $40. The motor, Surpass Rocket either 3500KV or 5500KV. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002537463848.html Servo, pretty much any 5g will fit but AGF/AFRC has the best price-performance right now. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001867780985.html This will be $123.6 exclude shopping so you'll save a bit from the $142.9 for kit with electronics from Atomic.
@@BeaversHobby welp, turns out my local hobby shop doesnt have them in stock. Even their main website doesn’t have them in stock. I guess its just my luck.
@@cityofplant Their restock date is so random that if you find one, just buy it. If one then wait. Check their websites regularly or just ask the shop to put you on alert when it's back.
Check the plug orientation if you plug it in the right side. Also if you have a multimeter, check if the adapter is ok and doesn't have any break in the wires.
If you want direct connection, the plug is JST-PH 2.0mm 3 pin. There're Atomic batteries with direct PH plug but they are a bit hard to find. You can buy any 300-400mAh 2S lipo and make a converter from JST-XH 2.5mm to JST-PH. I use Giant Power bought from banggood while it still shipped to Europe, now they don't. bit.ly/340Liik Check out Hobbyking Turnigy as well. This one got direct plug. But you'll need an adapter to charge. hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-300mah-2s-35-70c-lipo-pack-e-flite-eflb2002s25-micro-series-compatible.html
I'll do one update for my 50:50 drift full setup (yes, this will be fine tuning). After that I'll try to make the CS mod and then we'll see. I don't know if I'll keep it as drift car or turn back to touring. I really like how it drifts though.
@@jays604 For the AMZ. It has its own set of poles. I forgot you will need to drill new holes as well. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1024&products_id=12227
Any plans to review the higher end atomics such as the SZ ground force of the BZ3? given the SZ takes the same diffs this one may be better for drifting
Talked with people who got SZ and it seems like the chassis is plagued with problems. I might get the GLA v2 instead if I can't find Mini-Z MA030 EVO + NB4 receiver in Europe or it goes out of stock once I have money.
Great video, I think you convinced me to get one in the future so I can build a drift car with Lexan semi truck body. It looks like a good car but I wouldn’t call it a mini-z killer simply due to the batteries. I love that the mini-z can use disposable batteries and I’m not forced to carry a charger.
Convenient for transporting is also the reason I'm still taking Firelap IW04 with me on holidays so I don't have to carry an extra charger and transporting fragile battery. Lipo can be charged within 1 hour without slowly destroying the battery though. That's why RC is moving away from NiMh. Anyway, I'm still waiting for NB4 receiver for Mini-Z EVO to be available so I can get MA030 EVO.
Beaver's Hobby nice! Yep I’m planning on getting the MA-030 soon so I can start a series on that car as well. The MA-030 looks awesome, but I hope release a MA-030evo PRO around the holidays so I can get that.
Beaver's Hobby you are awesome man!!! Quick question, would the NB4 be able to talk with a MA-020s frequency? The NB4 looks amazing, but I think I need a KT-432pt so I could run both cars.
Hey I love your channel great information, since the most all cars mimic the mini z and the mini is always sold out. Which do your recommend wpl or atomic or do you think a different chassis is better
No, I don't. Actually I don't use a gyro in any AWD cars. I feel it's more of a hindrance than a help especially in a small space. I only use it in RWD cars where it's necessary.
The best way is to use hyper steering bell crank upgrade like I did. If you can't find it (or it's out of stock and you don't want to wait) you can use slimmer tie rod that connects between left and right hubs. It will allow the car to steer a bit more. Original rod is very thick.
It's getting hard to find that nowadays. The only source I can find is the official site of EagleRacing and it's out of stock. www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProductDetail.aspx?id=3646U However if you only want locked diff you can tighten the original ball diff to lock.
Thanks Beaver great vid just finished my Atomic SZ build had same issue with the diffs being tight but now they broke in . Hope to see a video on the higher end Atomic cars
Great video I got my car today but I cant figure out the electronics. I'm using a radio link transmitter and reciever with adapters for the servo and esc. The reciever connects to the transmitter but the esc wont. Can you guys help me
Are you sure the adapters are working correctly? Does it got power? Does the steering work? If the steering work then there's power and you'll only have to figure out the ESC. Try calibrating the ESC by holding the button and turn it on, then release the button, it'll go in to calibration mode. Now press button on the ESC once to register mid-point, fully press the throttle then press the ESC again to register full throttle, next brake and press the ESC. Wait for a bit and it will start.
@@BeaversHobby yes the steering does. I fixed the polarities on the adapters and every thing is binding g and getting power. My only problem now is that I tried to do the calibration steps and there is no blinking when I press the button. Do you know what the problem might be
@@loosezenpin Try reversing the channel 2 (throttle) on the transmitter. That might help in some case. But if you can't calibrate but it still works then you probably don't have to do it.
@@BeaversHobby man thanks that was the problem. I put both on the first 2 channels and everything works flawlessly. Thank you so much and keep up the great videos
Any 94mm and 98mm body. If it's narrow it'd better use 1.5mm offset so the servo fits on the side. This problem can be solved easily if you glue the servo down and cut the arm off. Then you can use any narrow body.
I've got the esc it came with and got some questions. It's got 6 cords coming out the top 3 for motor I'm assuming other three are for battery. And what are the two connectors on face of esc are they both for the receiver?
The flat, white plug is for the motor. The small plug is for the receiver. The top port (facing upwards), the one that is the same type as the plug that goes to the receiver, is for Hobbywing programming card. And the biggest port is for the battery.
Hey beaver! Could you please recommend to me a good 1/28 scale car for a small / medium sized basement carpet track. No idea which model to choose. I already have a atomic drz so I don’t care if it’s not good for drifting.
For drifting, keep using the DRZ or DRZ V2, it's already good. For touring if you want a RWD touring then take a look at Atomic MRZ or GL Racing GLR GT. As for AWD touring take a look at GL Racing GLA V2.1. In budget category, take a look at Mini-Q Q2 or MRC. It's RWD comparable to Mini-Z RWD but much cheaper.
Remove the knuckle and see if the arms can move up and down freely. If not, there is excess plastic on the arms. Look for seem lines and clean them out. But if they can move then problem is at the ball link. I did it at 9:06 .
thanks, but i'm just play it for hobby only, i mean not so serious hobby, can u suggest for me car like this scale but come with all part, just plug and play, a bit boring now because of Covid got nothing to do right now
@@aliffaslam7289 Mini-Z is the easiest one to get and there're dealers everywhere because it's from Kyosho. Here's a review of RWD version for driving around. th-cam.com/video/ht69BmKDUlc/w-d-xo.html There's also AWD that you can both drive and drift. th-cam.com/video/yp2b_Bf6smk/w-d-xo.html If you are on a tight budget, I highly recommend WLtoys K989. th-cam.com/video/TnhriaSSfSA/w-d-xo.html
There are quite a few chassis. Mini-Q Q2 for RWD touring. It's the same as Mini-Z MR02 (especially now that they sell it with front wide chassis). You only need to change the motor mount, again, like Mini-Z. th-cam.com/video/i9iXnSLetkg/w-d-xo.html HGD1 for RWD drifting. th-cam.com/video/_c-3Nqis7gs/w-d-xo.html GL Racing GLA also has 90mm version in narrow so it's like MA010/020 out of the box regarding width. AMZ, you'll need to find 90mm parts but they exists. Mini-Q Q7 with 90mm spur gear will fit but not the narrow body, this chassis is equivalent to wide so your body has to have some wheel offset, not 0mm offset.
When there are 3 wires it's the balance plug where the 1st one is - of the 1st cell, 2nd wire is the + of the 1st and - of the 2nd cell, then 3rd is the + of the 2nd cell.
For AMZ 3Racing or Eagle Racing will fit without any mod. Both of which are hard to find and possibly aren't being made anymore. Mini-Q one way will also fit, the one is this video is also from Mini-Q but the newer batch has very sharp gear so it will destroy your centre shaft pinion. You can also use Mini-Z one way but you'll have to shave the gearbox a bit to make it fit. I'd say it's worth the hassle because it's the best. As for ball differential, stock ball differential is more than good enough. If you want an upgrade look for GLA light weight ball diff.
hey Beaver, im having a tough time getting the differentials not to slip. I think if I try and tighten too much then im going to strip out the plastic gear. Do you have a solution? Maybe a metal gear?
Metal gear will increase the weight and chew the pinion. Where do you get the slip? Is it slip between gear or slip because the crown gear on the diff spinning without sending power to wheels? If it's problem between pinion and diff then you'll have to shim it with 6x8mm shims. If the gear mesh is good but it doesn't send power to the wheels then you have stripped nut in the diff. Anyway, change the plastic nut to lock nut regardless because it'll strip sooner or later.
Beaver's Hobby, the pinion was too loose so no power to the wheels. I tightened the plastic nut and it is stripped out. I found that the colored wheel lock nuts fit, and also provide an added non slip feature so I am using two of those to tighten the diff. So far so good.
I'm not sure if hobbyking.com still has Lipo in US warehouse but it's worth a look. Check out SupergDrift supergdrift.com/store/product-category/1-27-scale-mini-z-drz/ and www.kenonhobby.com/ . Other shops that sell micro drone parts should have 2S 300-400mAh battery too.
SZ has better handling but from what I gathered it has some problems like the front CVD keep breaking, broken rear part (need aluminium upgrade), some grinding at the rear gearbox and it's a bit more difficult to maintain from separated centre shaft. Also wheelbase is not adjustable. That's the main reason I choose the AMZ over SZ. I wanted to build 94mm wheelbase drift car. For hi-end AWD take a look at GLA from GL Racing. So far I have not heard a horror story about it.
@@BeaversHobby hi,i´m Nicogeek , Thank you very much. The reason to think about the sz is for the low price of acquisition 150 usd shipping included the gla is much more expensive My use is going to be races, no drift.
@@mariadoreyes2014 RCmart, right? At 150 it's so tempting. Touring performance is definitely better than AMZ. If it'd get for touring I'd buy SZ too. Just shim the rear gearbox and it should be OK. Also apply for e-mail notification for this part. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1162&products_id=14129 I've heard it's the one that plastic part will break. So aluminium is a must. For the front CVD, if original break try using Aurora. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Black-1-Pair-Long%29.html Hope this helps.
Is it really better or at the same level as Kyosho? It looks its more expensive. Buying Kyosho youre getting full package, great quality for 150$ or even 120$, ready to rock.
If you don't already have transmitter and charger, with everything included it'll cost roughly the same as Mini-Z AWD Ready Set. But the performance is about EVO version. The chassis itself is far better than all older Kyosho AWD and about the same level of consistency as MA-030 (current one). Another big plus is the freedom that you can use any electronics you want from motor, ESC, servo to radio, not proprietary parts from Kyosho. So if anything breaks you can fix it very easily. It also has much more steering angle so drifting is much easier too. However, as you have noticed, it's not entirely beginner friendly as you'll have to choose many parts yourself, which is a nature of kit car. Think of it as a Tamiya TT01 Kit in 1/28 scale.
I bought an atomic AMZ 2wd (it’s my second atomic 1/28). I’m trying to assemble. The screws that go into the bottom bulkhead are very soft and break off when you try to screw them in. I would suggest not buying one of these. I have emailed them to see if they will replace the bulkhead. Have not heard from them yet.
Sorry to hear that. Hopefully you got reply soon. They haven't answer my message so I've given up already. Lately Atomic's QC has gotten worse. A few people who got AMZ after me got dogbones that won't fit knuckles properly. Not sure if right now there's any brand in this price range that has decent quality control though.
Simply push it in. You'll see the small indentation step on the tyre, that side goes on to the wheel. It will fit together perfectly with the knurling on the inside of the wheel.
Ciao ho comprato una atomic amz 4wd con iper stering e in piú l'aggiornamento in alluminio della manovella dello sterzo e il corno del servo. Io monto il servo che c é in dotazione nel kit di montaggio dell' amz 4wd e non riesco a montare il corno sul servo perché la corona del servo é troppo piccola rispetto al corno mi puoi dare qualche consiglio su come fare
It depends on what you have already. For the car, body, battery and adapters $212.46. If you haven't got a radio it'll range from $20-$600. I suggest Radiolink RC4GS which is $54 and does everything. As for the charger you can get a cheap USB charger for $3. Or go all the way with genuine SkyRC iMax B6AC for $60. So a budget setup is around $270 if you don't have anything yet minus the paint, glue and tools to build, of course. Links below. Chassis with electronics: www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_1037_1040&products_id=13049 Shims for diff. : www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_1066&products_id=6103 Hyper steering bell crank upgrade: www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1024&products_id=13067 Body, highly recommend Skyline R33 Nismo because you got the wheels with it too: bit.ly/36fUGil Tyres, in case you want some spare: bit.ly/2I3a74k Upgrade Front oneway: bit.ly/2YFi1Y7 Solid axle isn't needed. You can lock the ball diff that comes with the car ans save $15. Wheel nuts: bit.ly/2Lck02G Budget Radio Radiolink RC4GS: bit.ly/2WSjb0G What I actually use, Flysky Noble NB4: bit.ly/2FVvIdy Battery: bit.ly/340Liik Parts for converters you'll need. Battery Plug (ESC side) JST-PH 2.0: goo.gl/69G4zW Battery Plug (battery side) JST-XH 2.5: bit.ly/3bj4eM6 Receiver Plug JST-XH 1.5: goo.gl/Mhy8pV Receiver Plug if you need to convert to standard receiver: bit.ly/3aV9VQU Battery charger, you can get by with a cheap USB charger. bit.ly/3dNodTW But I highly recommend a genuine SkyRC. Buy it once and use it forever: bit.ly/2KTGYJC Some of this are be out of stock so you can find the substitute based off the part I tell you.
I use one way from Sinohobby Mini-Q but I suggest Eagle Racing because the crown gear is better. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-23-AL-Front-One-Way-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253618039700 And rear solid. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-13-AL-Rear-Solid-Axle-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253336924294 Don't forget the shims. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_1066&products_id=6103
Hi again, Well I’ve fitted the new diffs, But I’ve had to order the different wishbones as the standard setup makes the driveshaft too long and locks up when trying to turn wheel or steering.?’ All I can think is the new diffs are slightly longer... I’ve also ordered the 3500kv motor like yours as mine is for drifting. I’m using model kit bodies as I can’t find the shell I want ( ford escort mk1 or 2 ) I’ve also ordered the ali upgrades too, but can’t seem to find the 98mm extension for the propshaft I need to bring the wheels in slightly, I need to bring them in by 2mm So do I look for -2mm wheels.?
@@benweddup552 Very strange problems you've got there. The upper and lower arms shouldn't be that short. You should check if the bearings are fitted properly on the knuckles so the drive shaft won't stick in or out too much. The 98mm shaft should be in the kit. It's the longer one. There's no -2mm offset. The lowest offset you can get is 0.
Beaver's Hobby thanks, I’ve got the atomic 3500kv motor but can I use the flysky fs-gr3e receiver.? Or Do I need a esc in between motor & receiver.? Thanks again
@@benweddup552 Yes, you can use flysky receiver providing you use Flysky transmitter. And yes, you need to use ESC too. The RC electronics are like this battery connects to ESC. ESC provides power to motor and also power up receiver + servo. Servo connects to receiver. For more information about RC electronics you can watch this video. th-cam.com/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/w-d-xo.html
I use one way from Sinohobby Mini-Q but I suggest Eagle Racing because the crown gear is better. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-23-AL-Front-One-Way-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253618039700 And rear solid. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-13-AL-Rear-Solid-Axle-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253336924294 Don't forget the shims. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_1066&products_id=6103
Hi BH, what would be your go-to 1/28 4wd car for drifting inside? This one looks nice but requires some modifications, are there better alternatives for drifting, using Lipo batteries as well? Thanks for your content man
My 2 favourite 4wd cars are this one and Mini-Q Q7 th-cam.com/video/kCjglUnXBQU/w-d-xo.html . Newer Q7 needs universal drive shafts (CVD) upgrade, just put the metal drive shafts in and it'll be perfect.
Hey Beaver. I built an atomic amz 2wd. I’m having a difficult time keeping it going straight. It’s not a drift car so I am using regularly rubber tires. I have to apply power very slowly or it will turn 180 degrees. I have adjusted my steering rate lower, but with the slightest movement it turns 180. Is it potentially a differential problem? Too lose or too tight?
There are some thing you can do starting from toe angle, a bit of toe out will help you go straight easier. Next, the tyres: use less grip at the front. For example 30 degree front narrow and 20 degree rear wide. Also the suspersion: make front harder than rear so the rear has more grip.
Hyper steering bell crank, front one way, rear solid axle (can also lock the original ball diff) and soft front springs are all you need. Next is just choosing the tyres according to your floor. DS Racing make a lot of good tyres. Choose between LF-1 to LF5, LF-1 = mid-high grip for all surfaces with decent speed, LF-5 = lowest grip available for carpet or slow drifting.
@@TiagoDeOliveiraHH You can just tighten the ball diffs that come with the car so you don't have to buy it. However if you want to buy the whole set one way + solid axle, I bought the whole set from this. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001671065507.html It's the same unit like the original Mini-Z parts. The quality is great and the gear won't chew the centre shaft pinion like the new sinohobby part with metal gear. However you'll have to shave the gearbox a bit to make it fit.
They are great in different ways, for me it's really difficult to choose between those two. If I can really choose one car then I'd take AMZ mainly for durability and parts support.
Hi, looking your video, I want to order amz from Miracle Mart. But I am new to this mini z staff. So could you please recomed, which rims+tires for drifting I should order together to fit to most mini-z bodyes later on? I totaly lost in off-sets. And there also rims for TRQ1 on the MM, but they specifyed as front and rear. What is the difference? Do they fit to amz? Thnx in advance.
AMZ uses Mini-Z AWD wheels. There's specific category in MM website. You'll have to choose the wheels according to the body because the offset has to go together with body's width. One of the best drift bodies is what I use, Nissan Skyline R32, the wheel offset for this body is 1.5mm offset narrow wheel. So you need 4 for all corners. Another good body is Toyota GT86/Subaru BRZ which needs 1.5mm offset as well. Next is Skyline R33, if you get the Nismo version it will come with the wheels. Basically, any body with 1-1.5mm offset narrow wheels are good for drifting with varying degree of control. All in all, 2 best choices are R32 and GT86. Other might suggest different bodies but these are my personal preferences. Drift tyres are included with the car and they are very good so don't worry about that. If you want different tyres, look for DS Racing and Mini-Z tyres. Tyres from Aliexpress will work but not as good so I suggest sticking with Atomic, Mini-Z and DS Racing. AMZ also uses same offset as Mini-Z (they are the same width) so you can swap between 2 cars without changing anything. Although I doubt you would go back to Mini-Z after experiencing AMZ. TRQ1 wheels are also in Mini-Z AWD format so the wheels are the same as AMZ. I forgot to answer front and rear wheel question. Front wheel is narrow. Rear wheel is wide. If I say narrow wheels on all corner then it means get 2 sets of front wheels. You'll get 4 narrow wheels from that.
@@Weaselpro This is 2.5mm offset. The wheels might stick out or rub the arches. Look for 1.5. Here they are. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1020_1059_1077&products_id=904
Check if it lifts the wheel. If you set the EPA too high sometimes it will just lift the wheels and you won't have any directional control so you'll have to decrease the EPA.
@@BeaversHobby down to 2 40% both sides still seems to slide straight/ barely turn for a bit on right turns mid speed. I have to either blast the throttle to whip the tail or go slow to make a tight turn
@@FRAKKKA Then there's something wrong with your steering system or differential. Check if the differential doesn't lock when you turn right and also if the ball heads are too tight so they pull the wheel up when you turn.
@@BeaversHobby using the hyper bell crank and kit came with carbong fiber servo mount, servot moves around quite a bit if I leave the epa at 100% looks like the steerid rod hits the servo horn
Yes, it's new. They are still making it but not the RTR version. Some upgrade parts seem to be out of production though like the aluminium bulkhead. But this car and basic spares are still on going.
Hey i was gonna msg you. I was gonna see about getting an opinion on the (jjrc q36-jjrc q36) 1/26 vehicles and their compatability with parts from the wltoys and mini q aswell as a drift build. Can you please get back to me. You are the reason i now order from banggood and also the reason why i have been making a drift build from the p929 wltoys 1/28
@@BeaversHobby awesome! great to know. Only thing i'm lacking now is the oneway front diff, 'literally cant find one available anywhere and my lack of knowledge in RC world hinders me from finding alternatives.
@@erikfernandez4494 I've found some on Aliexpress. Cheapest one here. www.aliexpress.com/item/33012812405.html In this shop it shows that there are shims in the one way kit. www.aliexpress.com/item/33045636252.html In case you want other colour. www.aliexpress.com/item/32845387412.html
Great video! I wish I could watch this video before buying & upgrading my K969... (Atomic was an option, but I chose Wltoys because of the wrong info from my friend that it can handle 4S NiMH) Btw, Can it use the 4S AAA size battery holder(51x22x22mm) by attaching it with velcro to the chassis? LiPos have great performance, but I have a fear of them...
About what battery you can use, it's all up to the electronics speed controller (ESC). WLtoys can handle more weight than the AMZ so I suggest you stick with what you already have. For the standard brushed motor you can use a cheap 20A ESC like this www.ebay.com/itm/20A-RC-ESC-Brush-Motor-Speed-Controller-with-Brake-For-RC-Car-Boat-Tank-Parts/143826111473 . As for a brushless motor you can use 4x NiMh with DasMikro (this one bit.ly/3h07teH ) and PN Racing ESC V2 with the terminals bridged (refer to the manual). You just need to change the ESC on your car and you'll be able to use it with 4x NiMh. Don't forget that you'll need a radio as well if you haven't got one already. Here's a guide to basic RC electronics and how to upgrade. th-cam.com/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/w-d-xo.html
I got mine from Banzaihobby but it probably went out of stock for quite some time now bit.ly/3eVd7O7 . You can get R33 Nismo though, it's still in stock and you'll get the wheels with it too. bit.ly/36fUGil .
@@karenbaxter2706 Oh, it was just there yesterday. If it's a new body like R33 it should be back in stock soon. Just put your email in for notification. I can't say for certain about the date because I'm not a Kyosho employee. 😉
I dont own either but wanted to pruchase, its like the same cost as a mini Z by the time you buy a body and battery? the carbons cool I guess, I wish the dam all in one ESC worked with a sanwa or futaba radio out of the box, thats another 50 bucks on top of that.
Yes, with everything included, battery, charger, a decent radio, etc. it would bring the cost up to about the same as Mini-Z AWD. If you already have some electronics or a transmitter already it'll be cheaper. Chassis&electronics $117 + unpainted body&wheels $25 = $142 VS Mini-Z AWD $250. The best thing about this car is that you can use any transmitter you want. Both Sanwa and Futaba have micro receiver for about $30-40. Electronics are whatever you choose, you can get a $40 brushless combo from Surpass Hobby and it'll still be more powerful than any Mini-Z. Or you can go nuts with sensored brushless. Nowadays a standard Mini-Z is locked to one upgrade transmitter which is KT-432PT and it's too expensive for what it is, a rebranded/re-flashed Flysky. So even the car is good and seems to have everything included in $250, if you want to upgrade the transmitter it'll be another $250 and not a very good one either.
There's a chance but don't hold your breath. I'm really thinking about it. I've always wanted a belt-driven car but I'm also afraid I don't have an optimal place to run it. Also BZ3 has quite weak steering system that one crash can cripple it which scares me even more. Still, if I'd but a belt, it will most likely be BZ3.
@@BeaversHobby From what I can see the bz3 has an improved, sturdier direction compared to previous versions but you are the expert, I accept your opinion. Cheers!
Edit: Sorry, I was looking at the wrong video. You can't use Mini-Z gyro with this. You'll need separated unit like this. www.ebay.com/itm/3944MINI-BK-SP-MINI-GYRO-AL-Case-BK/254103498486 And trust me, it's miles better than Mini-Z unit.
I have to disagree on mini z killer. 1. I raced against 1 not to long ago and from a durability stand point at least in a racing stand point it is not. I crashed my gla just as much as the driver with the amp or even more and I was able to tq and win because of this. 2. From a drifting stand point I can see I but I think the b3 would be better just for the simple fact that the car will be more easier to do repairs on it and to do a CS setup, depending on how good u are at making you're own parts like u can
Thanks for sharing your experience. GLA is a far superior car than this and, well, it came out not long ago so some flaws would have been ironed out. I'd like to get one too once I saved up more. Does BZ3 has one way though? I really want to try belt drive for drifting but I can't seem to find one way tube for it.
Are you talking about AMZ or DRZ? Since there're V1 and V2 I'd assume DRZ. V2 has different front chassis, steering assembly and adjustable wheelbase. V2 also supports a smaller servo like the AGF A11CLS. The rear is the same so parts are cross compatible. The only upgrade you'll be thinking about the rear is ball differential.
![[Review] HGD1 1/28 RWD Drift Car | Build & Setup](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_c-3Nqis7gs/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Review] HGD1 1/28 RWD Drift Car | Build & Setup](/img/tr.png)
Time stamps
Packages Pricing and requirements: 0:26
Chassis: 2:15
Electronics: 5:24
Building & Tips: 6:34
Fixing Problems: 8:17
Final verdict & conclusion: 10:22
Beaver's Hobby what’s the difference between the amz and the amr can’t seem to find any info on the amr
@@driftzone5586 AMZ is all wheel drive, AMR is rear wheel drive.
Beaver's Hobby so would yo say amr and the drz are on the same level which would you say is better as I’ve heard nothing about amr and would like to hear more about it
@@driftzone5586 DRZ is based on AMR. Basically DRZ is AMR drift mod. I also have review for DRZ too if you are interested. They are RWD cars with fully adjustable double wishbone suspension.
@SuPreme OpZ No, you'll have to buy them all separately including wheels. This is kit car so it'll come with chassis and some electronics if you choose the package with ESC, servo and motor as I said in the video.
I have a mini z readyset, and the level of detail on the models is amazing.
I love these videos, you’re always very precise and logical with your technical information. I bought the k958 from Banggood because of your videos. Banggood should give you commission.
I got some small commission when people buy from my affiliate links in the description. But as long as you have fun without spending a fortune that's good enough for me.
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OMG, I am sold ! I have been eyeing the Atomic line up for a while. Now I MUST have one 🚘
MAX RC buy mine, I’m putting it on eBay tomorrow.
@@daej312 send me a link, I will see what I can do.
I just finished mine two days ago. I run into the same problem in gear mesh, but I follow the advice on the rctech which used double-sided tape stuck onto the aluminum motor mount and give the mount more grip. Also, the servo saver is useless and I had to use a servo horn instead. The other problems includes uneven toe angle (This is a lot of toe-in for the rear. But eyeballing maybe inaccurate), and kyosho's body clip touching the motor. But I am very fortunately that there is no missing parts, bindy suspension or overtightened diff from the factory. For the price, even counting in your own electronic, it is well below kyosho's AWD offering yet should be able to outperfom it on track.
With all that said, I hope ATM understands the importance of quality control. Some people have just received BZ3 which is still missing parts. We are talking about a company which is making maybe fifth or sixth kits, not the first one （AMZ）. If they wish to reach a wider customer base, the quality control and plastic parts needs some serious work. Also I notice the kit's content seems to different from batch to batch, In your kit you have the adjustable front toe link and 1.5 camber upper arm. Mine has fixed toe link and 1 camber upper arm.
Atomic does have quality control issue. My DRZ got a ball link without screw thread and a lot of misalignment. The car was $200 and I was shocked. I'm so happy this kit doesn't have anything missing and everything fits together perfectly.
Regarding the Problem with the Servo saver arm: what i did was stripping the screw off its thread with some pliers. About 3mm at the tip. Just enough that it fits in the hole of the Servo shaft. Because the screw the manual tells me to use clearly doesnt fit. Now you can push the Servo saver arm easily on to the Servo shaft.
Thanks for the tip.
Great review. I think it works best at 94mm wheelbase. I use it for a cross between touring and drift racing. It's just as Beaver says, very predictable.
Omg, this is great! I've been wanting to change my k989 over to something because its so imprecise, and I use it as a loaner car to drive against me at home, and this would be the perfect cheap solution! I can just get the chassis and transfer all the electronics ive put into the 989 over to the amz! I've also got some spare motors from my mini z I might swap in to keep it all equal.
Thank you so much for your TH-cam programs. I love Mini Z'S and the 1/28-1/27th cars spawn my them. From the MR01 introduction (while I was working at a hobby shop) I thought great cars that cost too much for it's market.
You need to have cheap fun cars first. Get people interested in the fun. Give them fun reliable, cheap and quick.
Their competitive side will drive the precise, close-tolerance of highly competitive chassis designs (expensive).
I want to start my own club with a low-cost, entry level spec class of RTR 1/28th or even 1/18th cars. Get them Hooked on the Fun First. ALL the rest will follow.
Exactly! Now that the price has gone down micro RC (actually RC in general) has become much more accessible. People can try if this hobby is right for them and move to better car or leave it without big hole in their pocket.
AMZ is really good for club racing because the spare parts are mostly easy to find.
WLtoys K989 is another one that is much cheaper to start and has spare parts. However the stock radio is not that good and might leave a bad impression on someone who just started the hobby.
Hi, i got one and assembled. Drifts perfect. Could you pls recommend fixed differential for this car?
Eagle Racing solid axle is what I use. You can also use the included ball differentials and tighten them to lock.
One way from Kyosho will need to grind the gearbox out a bit to fit. Mini-Q and Eagle Racing one way will fit directly. However Mini-Q one way has changed and now it got sharp gears that will chew the pinion.
@@BeaversHobby Hi and thanx. I cant find Eagle solid axles somehow. Does Kyosho solid axle the trick too? I meant does it fits? (rc.kyosho.com/en/mdw024.html) And they also have one way diff. (rc.kyosho.com/en/mdw017.html). Does it fit? I have tightened original diffs on AMZ but still I can move them by hand.
And, many thanx for your pointing to AMZ, I am really exited how easily it drifts. Even without gyro. So I am selling my trq1 out cause after amz its feels as piece of crap. .
@@BeaversHobby One more question: somehow ESC on AMZ cuts off lipo at 7.6V instead of normal 6V. I cant to find any manuals how to adjust this cutoff.
There no manual at all on Atomic site and on HW site. Could you advice please, how to set this cut off parameter?
@@Weaselpro The Kyosho stuffs are a bit too thick as I said earlier so you'll have to grind the gearbox a bit to make them fit. However they are great quality and I highly recommend both one way and solid axle.
As for the high cut-off. You'll have to find a Hobbywing programming card. The one for EZrun will work too. And set the menu 2 to change the cut-off voltage.
1 = off
2 = 2.6V/cell (5.2V)
3 = 2.8V/cell (5.6V)
4 = 3V/cell (6V)
5 = 3.2V/cell (6.4V)
6 = 3.4V/cell (6.8V)
I highly recommend no. 5 to get 6.4V because 6V is a tad too low.
@@Weaselpro I forgot to mention you can hold the button and set it like Hobbywing EZrun too. Try and find manual for EZrun and you'll see how to set with just the button on the ESC. Then go to menu 2 and did what I said earlier.
Is there somewhere i can get the full kit with the recommended upgrades included for extra all in one neat package? Do you have a store you cant put the parts together into a mega kit?
Links are in the description. Unfortunately they don't bundle the steering upgrade with the kit so you'll have to buy that separately.
The wheels depends on the body you choose. Nowadays you will have the wheels with the body so that's nothing to worry about.
As for the shop it depends on where you are, if you are in the US you can contact WolframRC www.wolframrc.com/ or micro rc syndicate www.microrcsyndicate.com/ and ask them if they can setup a complete package for you.
Hi,Beaver! I see description of video but I don't find which type of connector Atomic servo? Thanks a lot for your videos!!!
The Atomic servo uses JST-ZH 1.5mm 3 pin plug.
It's the common plug for 1/28 racing cars so you can get a bag of it to convert your electronics and receiver.
@@BeaversHobby thanks 👍
What do you recommend for a cheap small drift car for under £80
Either Mini-Q TRQ1 or WLtoys K969/K989.
TRQ1 is a good chassis but electronics is fragile. This one is a gamble. If the circuit board hold up it will be the best car to start. Other components are quite durable. Overall it doesn't drive as well as WLtoys and it doesn't have much headroom to modify.
WLtoys is the fastest in the budget category and has a lot of headroom to upgrade and modify. However the plastic is brittle and gears wear out very quickly.
K989 and K969 are essentially the same car.
K989 is rally/touring because it comes with open gear diff and grip tyres.
K969 is labelled as drift car because it comes with solid axles (permanently locked diffs) and drift tyres.
Choose whichever body you like because you'll want to change the tyres anyway and a differential can be locked later.
However it will need a bit of fixing to get it to work. I have entire video series for that. But just to get it working properly, follow episode 1 and 2. th-cam.com/play/PLS79G3YjA2fAEez9GVeLW3JIy_LUIb6Mb.html
In conclusion, you have to choose between dodgy electronics from TRQ1 or fragile gears from WLToys.
Lai guohui
What's the best things to get for drifting ? What one to build and parts to get ? Thanks
For AWD/4WD drifting, this AMZ is one of the best. You can get car and parts from miracle-mart.com . It's a bit hard to mod it to CS so if you want a better car to do CS then I suggets Mini-Q Q7. You can get the car from banggood.com and parts from hobbyking.com under "turnigy tz4" and "mini-q" name, also at aliexpress with "mini-q mosquito car" name.
As for RWD drifting, right now Atomic DRZ is the best to get in terms of durability and part support. you can get it from miracle-mart.com .
@@BeaversHobby thanks
@@thatonebeone My pleasure.
@@BeaversHobby looking at this.. any good specs? Thanks godracing.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=206
@@thatonebeone This XRX DPA drifts better than DRZ but it's brittle. It can break even from minimal driving. Some say there's a new batch which is better so you'd better ask them if they got the improved parts.
Hi, i just bought this kit after looking of your video. One quastion: to drift, shell I lock the diffs?
Yes, you can just lock the original diffs to drift. They're ball differential so you just tighten them and they will be locked diff. Also change the front to one way if you like.
I just finished building this car. It was fun to build, but I still have a few issues to sort out. The motor pinion gear is too tight and came off, so I will have to adjust the gear mesh. I am not sure on the differential shims that you showed in this video. What was the purpose? Also there is too much space between the wheel lock nut and the wheels, so I will have to correct that as well.
The 6x8 shim on differential is to adjust the diff gear position (crown gear) to mesh with pinion gear on prop shaft correctly. Mostly it'll be too far and the gear will slip causing them to wear out prematurely or won't send power to the wheel.
If you have problem at the wheels then you'll need 3.1x4.5 shim to fix the fitment of the wheel shaft.
ppm-rcracing.com/products/3.1-x-4.5mm-Stainless-Steel-Shim-Set-%280.1%2C-0.2%2C-0.3mm-10%7B47%7Dea%29.html
Also 3x5 from Atomic www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1020_1023&products_id=13815
Do you recommend amz electronics or we should use another combo?
Yes, I recommend the kit with electronics. It's still one of the best sensorless kit.
I finally finished building my first one. Ran into an issue, not sure why my gear is so stiff. I replaced the front one way and ridged rear with mini q’s but they seemed to fit well so not sure where it went wrong.
Check the gear mesh on both front and rear gearboxes first. You might have to shim them especially the front one way if the gear doesn't meet the pinion. Put it together without motor first and see if it's still smooth and can roll easily. If not you'll have too loosen the gearboxes and move them around so they line up properly. Then move on to the motor. Setting gear mesh there is a bit difficult but slowly screwing it in and keep checking the smoothness will do just fine.
@@BeaversHobby That was it! thank you! i regret not checking youtube for your answer before trying it myself....i broke one of the wheel shaft in the process haha...noob mistake. Now to wait for a month for the replacement parts....so far fun, i'm enjoying the process of it all. Thanks for your videos, got me into it lol
Hi Beaver! I have a question. So I have a wltoys k989 that broke the first day I got it from a drop. Does all of those electronics fit in this chassis without replacing them?
Yes, it does. But for the servo if your Wltoys has one mounting arm because the other side is cut then you'll either have to stick it down with double-sided tape or get a new servo.
Can you connect a spektrum receiver to this?
Yes, this is still the same 3 wire system just like any other RC. The only difference is the plug, it's JST-ZH 1.5mm instead of JR/Futaba plug you use in other scale. You can make JST to JR adapter or just convert the plug to JR to match your receiver. A word of warning though, Spektrum has quite big receivers so choose one that would be small enough to fit inside the body.
Can u use the chassis and put a k989 electronics in it??
Yes, you can swap the electronics (I've also mentioned this in the video). However K989 cut one arm out of the servo so you might have to get a new one so you can screw it in the mount. Otherwise just just a double sided tape.
Hey,
i dont know if this is happening to everyone but one Thing i have to mention:
If you get the hyper steering Upgrade, you better have a Radio where you can Set Servo Limits (the Stock WL Toys doesnt)
Thats the reason i broke my new kyosho Front way diff. The reason: when i full steered, the rods moved so much that they moved the gearbox a Bit.
Hope that helps you
Can this be modded for more steering lock? Trying to use it with Dnano on small track but it's utterly useless turning circle just like the K989.
You can either make the lower tie rod with smaller head (3.5mm ball caps got a few to choose from) or use the hyper steering kit. It can only turn until the knuckle hit the gearbox. Wheelbase also helps. With 94mm wheelbase + hyper steering I got is around 37cm turning circle. Is that enough for Dnano track?
@@BeaversHobby Ok, I think that may be enough if this 'hyper steering kit' is still about to buy. This was the test fail although track is at my brothers so cannot measure right now.drive.google.com/file/d/1WDoJsVTSlrUGvlZGCPDjOVsGT0fRHdRN/view?usp=sharing
@@MicroRCFiend It's tight in places but I think hyper steering will do fine with it.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks, i'll give it a go before looking for for a replacement frame.
Were can I find and buy a complete kit to be delivered in Europe / Portugal?
Check out. www.srcc-devils.de/
Here it is. www.srcc-devils.de/ATOMIC/AMZ001-EXKT-ATOMIC-AMZ-4WD-Chassis-1-27-Mini-4WD-Touring-Car-mit-Motor-.htm?a=article&ProdNr=280343&p=1002
Nice!! Now im more eager to mess around with both my amz! I have those 2, one amr, and one drz! In my opinion, all are great! Thanks for this vid!
Is this better than a k969 with a bunch of upgrades?
Yes, it's way better. Even a stock AMZ is better than upgraded WLtoys.
@@BeaversHobby how much was this total?
@@Ymerstudios That depends on what you have already and what kind of electronics and transmitter you will be using.
If you already have everything from transmitter to battery and charger, it'll be about $180 for the car with electronics, wheels+tyres and a body.
If you haven't got anything yet you are looking at about $290. Basically $110 extra for a battery, a good charger and a decent transmitter. Remember, these 3 things are what you will be keep using for years to come so it's more of an investment at this point.
What a ball differential you used in your amz
They are not ball diffs in this build. The front is Sinohobby front one way and the rear is Eagle Racing solid axle. If you want to use the ball diffs, the original ones that come with the kit are good already.
@@BeaversHobby thx because I failed to build included ball differential
@@Victor2K23 You can also use GL Racing GLA ball differential. The quality and build are better than the Atomic's.
@@BeaversHobby thx
@@Victor2K23 My pleasure.
hi , just a quick question , my amz wont go reverse , only foward....how to disable racing mode ? i dont have program card
You can hold the button to program it like EZrun. Here's the manual. www.hobbywing.com/products/enpdf/EzRun60A.pdf
However the program is different. Here's program table. imgur.com/AwBHACd
@@BeaversHobby thanks mate :D I will give it a try
im looking inta buying this chassis, the problem is due to some money problems i have to try and build the car as cheap as possible. i probably have a battery that fits and i have a transmitter en reciever that might work but i dont have that type of motor and i have a mini servo but idk if that works. can u send me a link to a place or links for individual parts like the motor etc?
Understood. I have worked out the most economical way of building this chassis.
First, get the chassis with ESC. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_1037_1040&products_id=13055 It'll be $14 more than bare chassis but this ESC is better than anything up to $40.
The motor, Surpass Rocket either 3500KV or 5500KV. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002537463848.html
Servo, pretty much any 5g will fit but AGF/AFRC has the best price-performance right now. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001867780985.html
This will be $123.6 exclude shopping so you'll save a bit from the $142.9 for kit with electronics from Atomic.
Do you still recommend this chasis to house wltoys k989 electronics for drifting? I found a good deal at my local hobby shop.
Yes, I do. It's a much better chassis than WLtoys even with the same brushed electronics.
@@BeaversHobby welp, turns out my local hobby shop doesnt have them in stock. Even their main website doesn’t have them in stock. I guess its just my luck.
@@cityofplant Their restock date is so random that if you find one, just buy it. If one then wait. Check their websites regularly or just ask the shop to put you on alert when it's back.
So bought an adapter to use a standard receiver and it won’t power on.
Help please.
Check the plug orientation if you plug it in the right side. Also if you have a multimeter, check if the adapter is ok and doesn't have any break in the wires.
i love your videos , what style of connecter should i be looking for the battery and where do you buy your batteries
If you want direct connection, the plug is JST-PH 2.0mm 3 pin. There're Atomic batteries with direct PH plug but they are a bit hard to find. You can buy any 300-400mAh 2S lipo and make a converter from JST-XH 2.5mm to JST-PH. I use Giant Power bought from banggood while it still shipped to Europe, now they don't. bit.ly/340Liik
Check out Hobbyking Turnigy as well. This one got direct plug. But you'll need an adapter to charge. hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-300mah-2s-35-70c-lipo-pack-e-flite-eflb2002s25-micro-series-compatible.html
Thank you so much for the reply and help
@@gda882002 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Are you planning to do video for fine tuning or how to maintain amz type for touring.
I'll do one update for my 50:50 drift full setup (yes, this will be fine tuning). After that I'll try to make the CS mod and then we'll see. I don't know if I'll keep it as drift car or turn back to touring. I really like how it drifts though.
This little rc car looks interesting for drifting indoors... how does it compare to Wltoys A252 & A242 ? 👍
This one is in a different league. It's one of the best AWD drift cars you can get right now.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks, ... maybe I´ll get one soon
@@RcModwerks23 My pleasure.
Will the K989 body work on the AMZ chassis?
Yes, it will. You will need to get the lexan body mounting kit (body posts) though.
The body posts from Wltoys or AMZ? Thanks for the help.
@@jays604 For the AMZ. It has its own set of poles. I forgot you will need to drill new holes as well. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1024&products_id=12227
Any plans to review the higher end atomics such as the SZ ground force of the BZ3? given the SZ takes the same diffs this one may be better for drifting
Talked with people who got SZ and it seems like the chassis is plagued with problems. I might get the GLA v2 instead if I can't find Mini-Z MA030 EVO + NB4 receiver in Europe or it goes out of stock once I have money.
Beaver's Hobby I would love to see your opinion on the GLA car, I don’t know much about it so one of your videos would be golden.
Great video, I think you convinced me to get one in the future so I can build a drift car with Lexan semi truck body. It looks like a good car but I wouldn’t call it a mini-z killer simply due to the batteries. I love that the mini-z can use disposable batteries and I’m not forced to carry a charger.
Convenient for transporting is also the reason I'm still taking Firelap IW04 with me on holidays so I don't have to carry an extra charger and transporting fragile battery.
Lipo can be charged within 1 hour without slowly destroying the battery though. That's why RC is moving away from NiMh.
Anyway, I'm still waiting for NB4 receiver for Mini-Z EVO to be available so I can get MA030 EVO.
Beaver's Hobby nice! Yep I’m planning on getting the MA-030 soon so I can start a series on that car as well. The MA-030 looks awesome, but I hope release a MA-030evo PRO around the holidays so I can get that.
Can you make a video about the NB4? Like a review & talking about the features. Im not very aware of this controller
@@BMR3 It's in the pipeline.
Beaver's Hobby you are awesome man!!! Quick question, would the NB4 be able to talk with a MA-020s frequency? The NB4 looks amazing, but I think I need a KT-432pt so I could run both cars.
Hey I love your channel great information, since the most all cars mimic the mini z and the mini is always sold out. Which do your recommend wpl or atomic or do you think a different chassis is better
GL Racing is the best manufacture right now. Think of it as an upgraded Atomic. If you want an AWD car then get either Atomic AMZ or GL Racing GLA.
Are you using a gyro for the drift sections?
No, I don't. Actually I don't use a gyro in any AWD cars. I feel it's more of a hindrance than a help especially in a small space.
I only use it in RWD cars where it's necessary.
Hello beaver, is there any system like atomic hyper steering bell crank that can be apply on mini z awd? Thanks before.
Unfortunately, no. Mini-Z is very restricted when it comes to steering upgrade.
Too bad.. okay then, thank you for your reply.
Beaver's Hobby this is what I hate on mini z. They are marketing their awd as drift machine but option to increase steering angle is a NO.
Thanks for this video. Is there a way to increase the steering angle for amz?
The best way is to use hyper steering bell crank upgrade like I did. If you can't find it (or it's out of stock and you don't want to wait) you can use slimmer tie rod that connects between left and right hubs. It will allow the car to steer a bit more. Original rod is very thick.
Can you provide link for locked diff?
It's getting hard to find that nowadays. The only source I can find is the official site of EagleRacing and it's out of stock. www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/shop/ShopProductDetail.aspx?id=3646U
However if you only want locked diff you can tighten the original ball diff to lock.
Thanks so much. You helped a ton through my build. (Just finished)
Sorry, I didn’t read properly. I think I’ll just tighten it or put a bunch of glue in it
@@beepovews4392 Yes, do that and you don't have to buy anything.
Thanks Beaver great vid just finished my Atomic SZ build had same issue with the diffs being tight but now they broke in . Hope to see a video on the higher end Atomic cars
Great video I got my car today but I cant figure out the electronics. I'm using a radio link transmitter and reciever with adapters for the servo and esc. The reciever connects to the transmitter but the esc wont. Can you guys help me
Are you sure the adapters are working correctly? Does it got power? Does the steering work? If the steering work then there's power and you'll only have to figure out the ESC. Try calibrating the ESC by holding the button and turn it on, then release the button, it'll go in to calibration mode. Now press button on the ESC once to register mid-point, fully press the throttle then press the ESC again to register full throttle, next brake and press the ESC. Wait for a bit and it will start.
@@BeaversHobby yes the steering does. I fixed the polarities on the adapters and every thing is binding g and getting power. My only problem now is that I tried to do the calibration steps and there is no blinking when I press the button. Do you know what the problem might be
@@loosezenpin Try reversing the channel 2 (throttle) on the transmitter. That might help in some case. But if you can't calibrate but it still works then you probably don't have to do it.
@@BeaversHobby man thanks that was the problem. I put both on the first 2 channels and everything works flawlessly. Thank you so much and keep up the great videos
@@loosezenpin Glad everything works now. Have fun!
Do you know what mini-z bodies will fit on this chassis?
Any 94mm and 98mm body. If it's narrow it'd better use 1.5mm offset so the servo fits on the side. This problem can be solved easily if you glue the servo down and cut the arm off. Then you can use any narrow body.
I've got the esc it came with and got some questions.
It's got 6 cords coming out the top 3 for motor I'm assuming other three are for battery.
And what are the two connectors on face of esc are they both for the receiver?
The flat, white plug is for the motor. The small plug is for the receiver. The top port (facing upwards), the one that is the same type as the plug that goes to the receiver, is for Hobbywing programming card. And the biggest port is for the battery.
@@BeaversHobby can I email you picture of the mess I made lmao
@@FRAKKKA Sure. My email is beavershobby@gmail.com
turning circle is 60cm?
what does that mean
like at what speed what tire what friction?
That means it needs 60cm to make a u-turn under maximum grip with lowest speed.
Hey beaver! Could you please recommend to me a good 1/28 scale car for a small / medium sized basement carpet track. No idea which model to choose. I already have a atomic drz so I don’t care if it’s not good for drifting.
For drifting, keep using the DRZ or DRZ V2, it's already good. For touring if you want a RWD touring then take a look at Atomic MRZ or GL Racing GLR GT. As for AWD touring take a look at GL Racing GLA V2.1.
In budget category, take a look at Mini-Q Q2 or MRC. It's RWD comparable to Mini-Z RWD but much cheaper.
How do you think this compares to the BZ3 (which is belt-driven, I know)?
BZ3 is better. Well, it's the best AWD belt-driven right now.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks, and what is easier for a new racer, the BZ3 (AWD) or the MRT (RWD)?
@@johnfaustus1 MRT should be easier and has less parts to worry about.
Hey I just finished one today.my rear suspension don't move at all.you think I tightened them down to much.1st build
Remove the knuckle and see if the arms can move up and down freely. If not, there is excess plastic on the arms. Look for seem lines and clean them out. But if they can move then problem is at the ball link. I did it at 9:06 .
sorry i just newbie, wanna ask, if i but this, is it come with the remote controller?
Now, this is kit car and you will have to buy remote controller (transmitter & receiver), battery, wheels, body, batter and charger separately.
thanks, but i'm just play it for hobby only, i mean not so serious hobby, can u suggest for me car like this scale but come with all part, just plug and play, a bit boring now because of Covid got nothing to do right now
@@aliffaslam7289 Mini-Z is the easiest one to get and there're dealers everywhere because it's from Kyosho.
Here's a review of RWD version for driving around. th-cam.com/video/ht69BmKDUlc/w-d-xo.html
There's also AWD that you can both drive and drift. th-cam.com/video/yp2b_Bf6smk/w-d-xo.html
If you are on a tight budget, I highly recommend WLtoys K989. th-cam.com/video/TnhriaSSfSA/w-d-xo.html
Hi Beaver, do you know any 1/28 chassis that will fit 90mm mini z body?
There are quite a few chassis.
Mini-Q Q2 for RWD touring. It's the same as Mini-Z MR02 (especially now that they sell it with front wide chassis). You only need to change the motor mount, again, like Mini-Z. th-cam.com/video/i9iXnSLetkg/w-d-xo.html
HGD1 for RWD drifting. th-cam.com/video/_c-3Nqis7gs/w-d-xo.html
GL Racing GLA also has 90mm version in narrow so it's like MA010/020 out of the box regarding width.
AMZ, you'll need to find 90mm parts but they exists.
Mini-Q Q7 with 90mm spur gear will fit but not the narrow body, this chassis is equivalent to wide so your body has to have some wheel offset, not 0mm offset.
For what is third battery wire?
When there are 3 wires it's the balance plug where the 1st one is - of the 1st cell, 2nd wire is the + of the 1st and - of the 2nd cell, then 3rd is the + of the 2nd cell.
Hello For drifting, which front 1 way and ball differential would you suggest?
For AMZ 3Racing or Eagle Racing will fit without any mod. Both of which are hard to find and possibly aren't being made anymore. Mini-Q one way will also fit, the one is this video is also from Mini-Q but the newer batch has very sharp gear so it will destroy your centre shaft pinion. You can also use Mini-Z one way but you'll have to shave the gearbox a bit to make it fit. I'd say it's worth the hassle because it's the best.
As for ball differential, stock ball differential is more than good enough. If you want an upgrade look for GLA light weight ball diff.
Beaver's Hobby thank you! Parts ordered can’t wait to install and give it a run.
@@JimmyCNguyen My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
How did you build the diffs? I’m having a hard time.
There's really no instruction but it's similar to other ball diffs. Check out the instruction from GL Racing. gl-racing.com/GLA/v2/guide/#ball_diffs
hey Beaver, im having a tough time getting the differentials not to slip. I think if I try and tighten too much then im going to strip out the plastic gear. Do you have a solution? Maybe a metal gear?
Metal gear will increase the weight and chew the pinion. Where do you get the slip? Is it slip between gear or slip because the crown gear on the diff spinning without sending power to wheels?
If it's problem between pinion and diff then you'll have to shim it with 6x8mm shims. If the gear mesh is good but it doesn't send power to the wheels then you have stripped nut in the diff.
Anyway, change the plastic nut to lock nut regardless because it'll strip sooner or later.
Beaver's Hobby, the pinion was too loose so no power to the wheels. I tightened the plastic nut and it is stripped out. I found that the colored wheel lock nuts fit, and also provide an added non slip feature so I am using two of those to tighten the diff. So far so good.
@@adriancjones So I guess the slip was within the diff. Yes, use coloured wheel nut in it will fix the problem.
Hey Mr beaver. Do you know of another source to get lipo battery from. Banggood never gets here to the US and miracle mart is always out of stock.
I'm not sure if hobbyking.com still has Lipo in US warehouse but it's worth a look. Check out SupergDrift supergdrift.com/store/product-category/1-27-scale-mini-z-drz/
and www.kenonhobby.com/ .
Other shops that sell micro drone parts should have 2S 300-400mAh battery too.
Very nice I might try to save for the atomic drz and all the components
Would highly recommend getting your hands on the metal front bulkhead with bearing mounted sliding rack, the plastic one continuously comes loose.
I got this one because of you! Kyosho Subaru BRZ body
Hello, I am doubting between the AMZ and the SZ. The total set savings is 60 dollars cheaper the AMZ. What would you buy? Thank you
SZ has better handling but from what I gathered it has some problems like the front CVD keep breaking, broken rear part (need aluminium upgrade), some grinding at the rear gearbox and it's a bit more difficult to maintain from separated centre shaft.
Also wheelbase is not adjustable. That's the main reason I choose the AMZ over SZ. I wanted to build 94mm wheelbase drift car.
For hi-end AWD take a look at GLA from GL Racing. So far I have not heard a horror story about it.
@@BeaversHobby hi,i´m Nicogeek ,
Thank you very much. The reason to think about the sz is for the low price of acquisition 150 usd shipping included
the gla is much more expensive
My use is going to be races, no drift.
@@mariadoreyes2014 RCmart, right? At 150 it's so tempting. Touring performance is definitely better than AMZ. If it'd get for touring I'd buy SZ too. Just shim the rear gearbox and it should be OK. Also apply for e-mail notification for this part. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1162&products_id=14129
I've heard it's the one that plastic part will break. So aluminium is a must.
For the front CVD, if original break try using Aurora. ppm-rcracing.com/products/Wide-Crooked-Angle-Universal-Shaft-for-Mini%252dZ-%286061-Black-1-Pair-Long%29.html
Hope this helps.
Is it really better or at the same level as Kyosho? It looks its more expensive. Buying Kyosho youre getting full package, great quality for 150$ or even 120$, ready to rock.
If you don't already have transmitter and charger, with everything included it'll cost roughly the same as Mini-Z AWD Ready Set. But the performance is about EVO version.
The chassis itself is far better than all older Kyosho AWD and about the same level of consistency as MA-030 (current one). Another big plus is the freedom that you can use any electronics you want from motor, ESC, servo to radio, not proprietary parts from Kyosho. So if anything breaks you can fix it very easily. It also has much more steering angle so drifting is much easier too.
However, as you have noticed, it's not entirely beginner friendly as you'll have to choose many parts yourself, which is a nature of kit car. Think of it as a Tamiya TT01 Kit in 1/28 scale.
@@BeaversHobby Cool man. Thanks for explanation :D
@@piotrkarpienia4779 My pleasure.
Great review, thanks. Do the WLToys wheels fit on the AMZ?
Yes, they are the same Mini-Z AWD type.
I bought an atomic AMZ 2wd (it’s my second atomic 1/28). I’m trying to assemble. The screws that go into the bottom bulkhead are very soft and break off when you try to screw them in. I would suggest not buying one of these. I have emailed them to see if they will replace the bulkhead. Have not heard from them yet.
Sorry to hear that. Hopefully you got reply soon. They haven't answer my message so I've given up already.
Lately Atomic's QC has gotten worse. A few people who got AMZ after me got dogbones that won't fit knuckles properly. Not sure if right now there's any brand in this price range that has decent quality control though.
Beaver's Hobby that is sad. I enjoy assembling kits. It’s hard to find good kits anymore. Everyone wants ready to run.
Hi i have watched your video and I am planning to do the same could you give a link for all the hardshell bodies that fit the car 🚗?
Do you have an idea on how to make the AMZ a good cs car
I have a question. How do I install drift tires (mdt001) onto mini z wheels?
Simply push it in. You'll see the small indentation step on the tyre, that side goes on to the wheel. It will fit together perfectly with the knurling on the inside of the wheel.
Thank you so much for your help. Now I'm just waiting on the trqi with gyro and one way differential from Bangood
@@kristofercerny3825 My pleasure. If you want to remove the tyres from TRQ1 wheels you can dip them in warm water then push the tyres out.
Ciao ho comprato una atomic amz 4wd con iper stering e in piú l'aggiornamento in alluminio della manovella dello sterzo e il corno del servo. Io monto il servo che c é in dotazione nel kit di montaggio dell' amz 4wd e non riesco a montare il corno sul servo perché la corona del servo é troppo piccola rispetto al corno mi puoi dare qualche consiglio su come fare
The horn from kit won't fit but a horn from servo set will fit. Check in the servo bag, they should be there. They are white servo horn.
@@BeaversHobby ok grazie ma ciò vuol dire che il corno in alluminio lo vendono ma non si puó montare..
@@pietrod2052 Yes, exactly.
@@BeaversHobby ok grazie
@@pietrod2052 My pleasure.
How much is it all in
It depends on what you have already.
For the car, body, battery and adapters $212.46.
If you haven't got a radio it'll range from $20-$600. I suggest Radiolink RC4GS which is $54 and does everything.
As for the charger you can get a cheap USB charger for $3. Or go all the way with genuine SkyRC iMax B6AC for $60.
So a budget setup is around $270 if you don't have anything yet minus the paint, glue and tools to build, of course.
Links below.
Chassis with electronics: www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_1037_1040&products_id=13049
Shims for diff. : www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_1066&products_id=6103
Hyper steering bell crank upgrade: www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1024&products_id=13067
Body, highly recommend Skyline R33 Nismo because you got the wheels with it too: bit.ly/36fUGil
Tyres, in case you want some spare: bit.ly/2I3a74k
Upgrade Front oneway: bit.ly/2YFi1Y7
Solid axle isn't needed. You can lock the ball diff that comes with the car ans save $15.
Wheel nuts: bit.ly/2Lck02G
Budget Radio Radiolink RC4GS: bit.ly/2WSjb0G
What I actually use, Flysky Noble NB4: bit.ly/2FVvIdy
Battery: bit.ly/340Liik
Parts for converters you'll need.
Battery Plug (ESC side) JST-PH 2.0: goo.gl/69G4zW
Battery Plug (battery side) JST-XH 2.5: bit.ly/3bj4eM6
Receiver Plug JST-XH 1.5: goo.gl/Mhy8pV
Receiver Plug if you need to convert to standard receiver: bit.ly/3aV9VQU
Battery charger, you can get by with a cheap USB charger. bit.ly/3dNodTW
But I highly recommend a genuine SkyRC. Buy it once and use it forever: bit.ly/2KTGYJC
Some of this are be out of stock so you can find the substitute based off the part I tell you.
Hi beaver
I just built my one but I forgot about changing diffs.!! Where do I get the diffs you mention for drifting.?
Thanks again.
I use one way from Sinohobby Mini-Q but I suggest Eagle Racing because the crown gear is better. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-23-AL-Front-One-Way-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253618039700
And rear solid. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-13-AL-Rear-Solid-Axle-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253336924294
Don't forget the shims. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_1066&products_id=6103
Hi again,
Well I’ve fitted the new diffs,
But I’ve had to order the different wishbones as the standard setup makes the driveshaft too long and locks up when trying to turn wheel or steering.?’
All I can think is the new diffs are slightly longer...
I’ve also ordered the 3500kv motor like yours as mine is for drifting.
I’m using model kit bodies as I can’t find the shell I want ( ford escort mk1 or 2 )
I’ve also ordered the ali upgrades too, but can’t seem to find the 98mm extension for the propshaft
I need to bring the wheels in slightly, I need to bring them in by 2mm
So do I look for -2mm wheels.?
@@benweddup552 Very strange problems you've got there. The upper and lower arms shouldn't be that short. You should check if the bearings are fitted properly on the knuckles so the drive shaft won't stick in or out too much.
The 98mm shaft should be in the kit. It's the longer one. There's no -2mm offset. The lowest offset you can get is 0.
Beaver's Hobby thanks,
I’ve got the atomic 3500kv motor but can I use the flysky fs-gr3e receiver.? Or Do I need a esc in between motor & receiver.?
Thanks again
@@benweddup552 Yes, you can use flysky receiver providing you use Flysky transmitter. And yes, you need to use ESC too. The RC electronics are like this battery connects to ESC. ESC provides power to motor and also power up receiver + servo.
Servo connects to receiver.
For more information about RC electronics you can watch this video. th-cam.com/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/w-d-xo.html
Hi Beaver, i bought this kit too. Where did you get the front one way and rear solid axel ? Nice vid. Thanks
I use one way from Sinohobby Mini-Q but I suggest Eagle Racing because the crown gear is better. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-23-AL-Front-One-Way-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253618039700
And rear solid. www.ebay.com/itm/MA20VE-13-AL-Rear-Solid-Axle-For-AWD-MA-020VE/253336924294
Don't forget the shims. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_1066&products_id=6103
Hi BH, what would be your go-to 1/28 4wd car for drifting inside? This one looks nice but requires some modifications, are there better alternatives for drifting, using Lipo batteries as well? Thanks for your content man
My 2 favourite 4wd cars are this one and Mini-Q Q7 th-cam.com/video/kCjglUnXBQU/w-d-xo.html .
Newer Q7 needs universal drive shafts (CVD) upgrade, just put the metal drive shafts in and it'll be perfect.
@@BeaversHobby The Q7 seems to be exactly what I need. Thanks for the help mate.
@@euqat My pleasure.
Hey Beaver. I built an atomic amz 2wd. I’m having a difficult time keeping it going straight. It’s not a drift car so I am using regularly rubber tires. I have to apply power very slowly or it will turn 180 degrees. I have adjusted my steering rate lower, but with the slightest movement it turns 180. Is it potentially a differential problem? Too lose or too tight?
There are some thing you can do starting from toe angle, a bit of toe out will help you go straight easier. Next, the tyres: use less grip at the front. For example 30 degree front narrow and 20 degree rear wide. Also the suspersion: make front harder than rear so the rear has more grip.
hey! me again :D I bought an atomic amz, and I would like to know what are the essential upgrades to run well. And what upgrades should I do to drift
Hyper steering bell crank, front one way, rear solid axle (can also lock the original ball diff) and soft front springs are all you need. Next is just choosing the tyres according to your floor. DS Racing make a lot of good tyres. Choose between LF-1 to LF5, LF-1 = mid-high grip for all surfaces with decent speed, LF-5 = lowest grip available for carpet or slow drifting.
@@BeaversHobby Nice! tank you o/
@@TiagoDeOliveiraHH My pleasure. Good luck with the project!
@@BeaversHobby do you have the link from rear solid axle?
@@TiagoDeOliveiraHH You can just tighten the ball diffs that come with the car so you don't have to buy it. However if you want to buy the whole set one way + solid axle, I bought the whole set from this. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001671065507.html It's the same unit like the original Mini-Z parts.
The quality is great and the gear won't chew the centre shaft pinion like the new sinohobby part with metal gear.
However you'll have to shave the gearbox a bit to make it fit.
In your opinion which is better? AMZ or Q7?
They are great in different ways, for me it's really difficult to choose between those two. If I can really choose one car then I'd take AMZ mainly for durability and parts support.
@@BeaversHobby that is good to me, thanks!
@@01TonyPayne My pleasure.
Hi, looking your video, I want to order amz from Miracle Mart. But I am new to this mini z staff. So could you please recomed, which rims+tires for drifting I should order together to fit to most mini-z bodyes later on? I totaly lost in off-sets. And there also rims for TRQ1 on the MM, but they specifyed as front and rear. What is the difference? Do they fit to amz? Thnx in advance.
AMZ uses Mini-Z AWD wheels. There's specific category in MM website.
You'll have to choose the wheels according to the body because the offset has to go together with body's width. One of the best drift bodies is what I use, Nissan Skyline R32, the wheel offset for this body is 1.5mm offset narrow wheel. So you need 4 for all corners.
Another good body is Toyota GT86/Subaru BRZ which needs 1.5mm offset as well. Next is Skyline R33, if you get the Nismo version it will come with the wheels. Basically, any body with 1-1.5mm offset narrow wheels are good for drifting with varying degree of control. All in all, 2 best choices are R32 and GT86. Other might suggest different bodies but these are my personal preferences.
Drift tyres are included with the car and they are very good so don't worry about that. If you want different tyres, look for DS Racing and Mini-Z tyres. Tyres from Aliexpress will work but not as good so I suggest sticking with Atomic, Mini-Z and DS Racing.
AMZ also uses same offset as Mini-Z (they are the same width) so you can swap between 2 cars without changing anything. Although I doubt you would go back to Mini-Z after experiencing AMZ.
TRQ1 wheels are also in Mini-Z AWD format so the wheels are the same as AMZ.
I forgot to answer front and rear wheel question.
Front wheel is narrow. Rear wheel is wide. If I say narrow wheels on all corner then it means get 2 sets of front wheels. You'll get 4 narrow wheels from that.
@@BeaversHobby Many thanx for prompt answer. So these rims should fit? www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=12068
@@Weaselpro This is 2.5mm offset. The wheels might stick out or rub the arches. Look for 1.5.
Here they are. www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74_1020_1059_1077&products_id=904
@@BeaversHobby Thnx. One more quastion. Can I fit these iwaver bodies to amz? www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=67_74_1045_82
Awesome. Can I buy the readily installed from you?
Sorry, no. I don't sell cars.
Yo..! one of the best mini drift videos I have seen. Awesome!
timZ Channel when are we getting any updates on your channel that’s what got me started with mini z
When my wheel is turn to right all the way with bell crank, some times the car just goes straight and doesn't turn even though wheels are turned
Check if it lifts the wheel. If you set the EPA too high sometimes it will just lift the wheels and you won't have any directional control so you'll have to decrease the EPA.
@@BeaversHobby down to 2
40% both sides still seems to slide straight/ barely turn for a bit on right turns mid speed. I have to either blast the throttle to whip the tail or go slow to make a tight turn
@@FRAKKKA Then there's something wrong with your steering system or differential. Check if the differential doesn't lock when you turn right and also if the ball heads are too tight so they pull the wheel up when you turn.
@@BeaversHobby using the hyper bell crank and kit came with carbong fiber servo mount, servot moves around quite a bit if I leave the epa at 100% looks like the steerid rod hits the servo horn
@@BeaversHobby also I've got the lug nuts fastened all the way but my front wheels still got a good amount of play
รุ่นที่มีชุดไฟมา ใช้กับรีโมทแบบไหนได้บ้างครับ
ใช้รีโมทรถได้ทุกแบบครับ ขอแค่รีซีฟเล็กพอจะใส่บนรถได้ก็พอ (หรือจะรีโมทเครื่องบินก็ได้ ขอแค่ก้านมันดีดกลับตรงกลาง)
ปลั๊กที่เห็นเป็นหัวแปลก ๆ นั่นคือ JST-ZH 1.5mm 3 pin สามารถแปลงรีซีฟปกติให้ใส่ได้ครับ
ความกว้างจากล้อซ้ายไปล้อขวาเท่าไรครับ
@@nitroalone2622 แล้วแต่ล้อที่ใช้เลยครับ ตอนนี้ผมใช้ออฟเซ็ต 1.5 ได้รถกว้าง 67มม. ถ้าเป็นออฟเซ็ต 0 ก็จะได้ 64มม.
ส่วน tracking หรือระยะระหว่างกลางล้อ 59มม. ครับ (ขึ้นอยู่กับออฟเซ็ตอีกนั่นล่ะ)
ถ้าถอดล้อออก ดูเฉพาะนัคเคิลจะได้ 53.5มม. ครับ
แบบนี้ก็ใส่บอดี้ civic type r ได้ใช่ไหมครับ ตอนนี้ผมใส่wl ล้อมันล้นมาเกือบ2มิลครับ
@@nitroalone2622 Civic Type R ใส่ได้เลยครับ ใช้ล้อที่ติดมากับบอดี้ได้เลยด้วย ที่ WLtoys ใส่ไม่ได้ เพราะมันเป็นโครงกว้าง(ต้องเปลี่ยนล้อเป็นออฟเซ็ต 0 ก่อน ถึงจะใช้ได้) อันนี้มาเป็นโครงแคบ ตามแบบฉบับ MA010/020/030 เลยครับ
Is this new? I remember getting an RTF (minus body) years ago? Or did they re-release it as kit?
Yes, it's new. They are still making it but not the RTR version.
Some upgrade parts seem to be out of production though like the aluminium bulkhead. But this car and basic spares are still on going.
Hey i was gonna msg you. I was gonna see about getting an opinion on the (jjrc q36-jjrc q36) 1/26 vehicles and their compatability with parts from the wltoys and mini q aswell as a drift build. Can you please get back to me. You are the reason i now order from banggood and also the reason why i have been making a drift build from the p929 wltoys 1/28
please add links for Shims
Really can't wait for mine to arrive, expecting some delays cause of covid-19. If i may just ask, how long does it run on 300mAh battteries?
I got 30-45 minutes of runtime depending on how hard I pull the throttle.
@@BeaversHobby wow that's alot for 300mAh. Guess adding LED lighting won't hurt then. Thank you, kindly
@@erikfernandez4494 Adding LED won't consume much power. You can do it without any problem.
@@BeaversHobby awesome! great to know. Only thing i'm lacking now is the oneway front diff, 'literally cant find one available anywhere and my lack of knowledge in RC world hinders me from finding alternatives.
@@erikfernandez4494 I've found some on Aliexpress. Cheapest one here. www.aliexpress.com/item/33012812405.html
In this shop it shows that there are shims in the one way kit. www.aliexpress.com/item/33045636252.html
In case you want other colour. www.aliexpress.com/item/32845387412.html
thats cool , I own a 350z
so i purchased the HPI sprint 2
Would wltoys electronics fit on this chasis
Yes.
great video! consdering getting into 1/27 scale to run in my basement.
Fanatics video! I can't wait to see your next video!👀
hi Mr B, what type of connector is on the atomic motor ?
Molex 51005 3 Pin
@@BeaversHobby thanks ☺
Great video! I wish I could watch this video before buying & upgrading my K969...
(Atomic was an option, but I chose Wltoys because of the wrong info from my friend that it can handle 4S NiMH)
Btw, Can it use the 4S AAA size battery holder(51x22x22mm) by attaching it with velcro to the chassis?
LiPos have great performance, but I have a fear of them...
About what battery you can use, it's all up to the electronics speed controller (ESC). WLtoys can handle more weight than the AMZ so I suggest you stick with what you already have.
For the standard brushed motor you can use a cheap 20A ESC like this www.ebay.com/itm/20A-RC-ESC-Brush-Motor-Speed-Controller-with-Brake-For-RC-Car-Boat-Tank-Parts/143826111473 .
As for a brushless motor you can use 4x NiMh with DasMikro (this one bit.ly/3h07teH ) and PN Racing ESC V2 with the terminals bridged (refer to the manual). You just need to change the ESC on your car and you'll be able to use it with 4x NiMh.
Don't forget that you'll need a radio as well if you haven't got one already. Here's a guide to basic RC electronics and how to upgrade.
th-cam.com/video/BSt7U-yOa4Q/w-d-xo.html
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for your advice and help. Merry Christmas and Happy new year!
@@별빛여우-c1o My pleasure. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you too.
Where can I buy the R32 gtr body
I got mine from Banzaihobby but it probably went out of stock for quite some time now bit.ly/3eVd7O7 .
You can get R33 Nismo though, it's still in stock and you'll get the wheels with it too. bit.ly/36fUGil .
@@BeaversHobby when do they come back in stock
@@karenbaxter2706 No idea. Probably whenever Kyosho decides to make it again. That's why I suggest the R33 Nismo instead.
@@BeaversHobby that is now also out of stock
@@karenbaxter2706 Oh, it was just there yesterday. If it's a new body like R33 it should be back in stock soon. Just put your email in for notification. I can't say for certain about the date because I'm not a Kyosho employee. 😉
I dont own either but wanted to pruchase, its like the same cost as a mini Z by the time you buy a body and battery? the carbons cool I guess, I wish the dam all in one ESC worked with a sanwa or futaba radio out of the box, thats another 50 bucks on top of that.
Yes, with everything included, battery, charger, a decent radio, etc. it would bring the cost up to about the same as Mini-Z AWD. If you already have some electronics or a transmitter already it'll be cheaper. Chassis&electronics $117 + unpainted body&wheels $25 = $142 VS Mini-Z AWD $250.
The best thing about this car is that you can use any transmitter you want. Both Sanwa and Futaba have micro receiver for about $30-40.
Electronics are whatever you choose, you can get a $40 brushless combo from Surpass Hobby and it'll still be more powerful than any Mini-Z. Or you can go nuts with sensored brushless.
Nowadays a standard Mini-Z is locked to one upgrade transmitter which is KT-432PT and it's too expensive for what it is, a rebranded/re-flashed Flysky. So even the car is good and seems to have everything included in $250, if you want to upgrade the transmitter it'll be another $250 and not a very good one either.
Thank you for the video. Lots of good information there.
Any chance you will be reviewing the BZ3?
There's a chance but don't hold your breath.
I'm really thinking about it. I've always wanted a belt-driven car but I'm also afraid I don't have an optimal place to run it. Also BZ3 has quite weak steering system that one crash can cripple it which scares me even more. Still, if I'd but a belt, it will most likely be BZ3.
@@BeaversHobby From what I can see the bz3 has an improved, sturdier direction compared to previous versions but you are the expert, I accept your opinion. Cheers!
@@z-collector7518 From what I can tell the handling is brilliant. Just don't crash, that's all.
Very nice I just got myself one 👌👍
Hi Beaver Nice vid i just ordered one too. What about gyro ? Can we connect Kyosho’s awd gyro to the supplied esc ? Many thanks.
Edit: Sorry, I was looking at the wrong video. You can't use Mini-Z gyro with this. You'll need separated unit like this. www.ebay.com/itm/3944MINI-BK-SP-MINI-GYRO-AL-Case-BK/254103498486
And trust me, it's miles better than Mini-Z unit.
Love your videos thanks for making this!
Well done, nice job.
No drift tires in my kit :(
Sorry to hear that. Which kit did you buy, full set or chassis only?
Beaver's Hobby esc version. No biggie tho. I’m just glad it came in lol
@@miniracersus Oh... OK.
I have to disagree on mini z killer.
1. I raced against 1 not to long ago and from a durability stand point at least in a racing stand point it is not. I crashed my gla just as much as the driver with the amp or even more and I was able to tq and win because of this.
2. From a drifting stand point I can see I but I think the b3 would be better just for the simple fact that the car will be more easier to do repairs on it and to do a CS setup, depending on how good u are at making you're own parts like u can
Thanks for sharing your experience. GLA is a far superior car than this and, well, it came out not long ago so some flaws would have been ironed out. I'd like to get one too once I saved up more.
Does BZ3 has one way though? I really want to try belt drive for drifting but I can't seem to find one way tube for it.
nice nice nice I just ordered the full version ^^ but Hyper steering bell crank upgrade is out of stock
เป็นรถดริฟที่ดีที่สุดใน1/28ตอนนี้เลยปะครับ
ใช่ครับ สำหรับ 50:50 (ล้อหน้าหลังหมุนเท่ากัน) ตัวนี้ดีสุดตอนนี้เลย
wowรังเลเลยจะเอาไหนดี55
@@LakAyo123 AMZ พร้อมชุดเลี้ยวดริฟท์ดีมาก แถมยังเลือกรีโมทอะไรก็ได้ ตามใจนะครับ
Hy, can someone Tell me whats the difference between Version 1 and Version 2 is? Are the Tuning Parts compatible? Sorry for my bad english.
Thank you!
Are you talking about AMZ or DRZ? Since there're V1 and V2 I'd assume DRZ. V2 has different front chassis, steering assembly and adjustable wheelbase. V2 also supports a smaller servo like the AGF A11CLS.
The rear is the same so parts are cross compatible. The only upgrade you'll be thinking about the rear is ball differential.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for your information! But i mean the difference between Atomic Amz Version 1 and Version2
@@danielr5779 There's only 1 version of AMZ. The difference is you can choose a package with electronics or the package without electronics.
@@BeaversHobby okay thank you very much! liked and subscripted
@@danielr5779 My pleasure.