Must Do Kyosho Mini Z Mod That Cost Nothing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
- Seen in video:
Kyosho Mini Z's - bit.ly/2NLN00m
Kyosho Mini Z Tool Kit - bit.ly/2ZYf327
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Best Beginner RC Car:
Slash - bit.ly/39TMvdu
Slash 4x4 - bit.ly/391JoRb
Slash 4x4 VXL - bit.ly/2VcoqdO
Best Beginner RC Race Cars:
Tekno SCT410 -
Tekno ET48.3 -
My Top Electric Bashers (Updated):
Traxxas E-Revo 2.0 - bit.ly/2twJfVV
Traxxas Hoss - bit.ly/31U4Pkl
Traxxas Maxx - bit.ly/2R0K0A7
Tekno MT410 - bit.ly/2XUWURu
Traxxas XMaxx 8S - bit.ly/2X6Liuu
Favorite Battery Chargers (Updated):
Spektrum S2100 - bit.ly/2EAiiWp
Prodigy 625 DUO Touch AC - bit.ly/37Ot9Fo
Traxxas EZ-Peak Live Dual - bit.ly/2SND9KT
IDST Dual Charger - amzn.to/3dTeKuG
IDST AA and AAA Charger - amzn.to/2VHTcdY
My Top 5 Nitro Bashers:
Traxxas Revo 3.3 - bit.ly/2yMF8qZ
Traxxas Jato 3.3 - bit.ly/3dStjyr
Traxxas T-Maxx 3.3 - bit.ly/2VFgBN7
Traxxas Nitro Rustler - bit.ly/2NRXJXc
Traxxas Nitro Slash - bit.ly/2NR0AzG
My Race Vehicles:
Tekno ET48.3 (Etruggy) -
Tekno EB48 2.0 (Ebuggy) - bit.ly/2uhtUsI
Tekno SCT410.3 (4wd Short Course Truck) -
Tekno NB48 2.0 (Nitro Buggy) -
Tekno NT48.3 (Nitro Truggy) - bit.ly/38u69gU
Tekno ET410 (10th Scale 4wd Truck) - bit.ly/2yAAHfG
Tekno EB410.2 (10th Scale 4wd Buggy) - bit.ly/2YIiFo6
My Race Gear:
Radio - bit.ly/2GMghET
Race servos - bit.ly/2yBiuif
Nitro Engine - bit.ly/38mIv5E
Tires - bit.ly/2YHJGpQ
Race Oils - ptrcracing.com/
Fuel - vpracingfuels.com/rc-fuels/
Batteries - bit.ly/2KoMR0P
My Son’s Race Vehicles:
Tekno SCT410.3 -
Tekno EB48.4 - bit.ly/2GLnkOg
Best All Around Race Tires:
Buggy - bit.ly/2FPjKl6
Truggy - bit.ly/3a8Ln6E
SCT - bit.ly/2tYXh2k
4wd 10th Scale Truck - bit.ly/388NzJT
Favorite Lipo Batteries
Protek Lipos (Race Packs) - bit.ly/2KoMR0P
Traxxas Lipos (Basher Packs) - bit.ly/32cHZV1
8th Scale Race Electronics:
Speed Control (all) - bit.ly/3dm7RCM
Motor (eBuggy) -
Motor (eTruggy) - bit.ly/3a8vfBL
Motor (Short Course) - bit.ly/3bdg9es
Servos:
Protek 170SBL (Best Race) - bit.ly/2yBiuif
Protek 370TBL (Best Crawler) -
Protek 155T (Best Basher) - bit.ly/37N08tN
Protek 130T (Better Basher) - bit.ly/3bVCb6L
Protek 100T (Good Basher) -
Hobbyking 15298B (Super Cheap) - amzn.to/2HJKe8Y
Favorite Tools (Updated):
Protek Hex Drivers -
Protek Nut Drivers - bit.ly/2NSjfLc
All in 1 Set - amzn.to/30Z3Z6j
Compact Set (New) - bit.ly/2GhibQC
Tuning Driver -
Shock Tools - bit.ly/2BnJTcv
Parts Trays and Pistons - bit.ly/2GN3xhv
MIP Thorp Drivers - bit.ly/2GKSIwu
MIP Thorp Nut Drivers - bit.ly/3irCJEs
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indyrcworld.com/
lonestarrchobbies.com/
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Mark Santa Maria
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I absolutely love your videos I wish I could support you in Patreon but I’m just a kid. I love that they are so family friendly. I’ve learned so much from your amazing videos.
Love the mini z content! You got me interested in mini zs......my first mini z is arriving this Saturday. Someday I hope to come visit lonestar hobbies and race on the track!
I did this same modification myself yesterday with mine which still has the stock steering blocks. In my case, one broke near where the wheelshaft is and I superglued it back together. One issue I had was it couldn't freely slide on the steering shaft. So I decided to take matters into my own hands and flip the steering shaft as shown in this video. Granted I could get aluminum steering blocks or drilled the shaft hole in the block, but this mod makes it so much easier, and not just for ease of suspension travel.
Thanks for the tip. Definitely makes it smoother!
Your mod converts the Mini-Z front suspension to the layout similar to that Radio Shack on the early version of their XMods cars. Their lower A-Arm is stationary and served as a guide for the pivot/suspension screw that attached to the upper A-Arm. It extended below the suspension with the screw head acting as the stop for the suspension travel. May be why Kyosho elected to reverse their installation.
Great video as always guys!
Thnx, works like charm. Suspension become more sensitive and gentle.
Insane video love your videos keep up the work
Hi mark. Can u please do a video on how to install a motor into a 2wd mini z
Nice to see 1/28 content.. they are a crescent and insanely cool.
If you have a chance, take a look into atomic 1/28 kits (tons of fun building it) and mini-z buggy.
Also if you don’t want to flip. Throw that c-clip away and but both washers at the bottom that will drop the front .5mm which helps. Then you can drop the rear too if you want to get a new motor pod
I got a mini z buggy today and i love it. What are those red rings (not completely closed) for? Are to shim the dampers?
I started with the ready to run kit lol now I just bought a brush one and my new noble radio is coming. It’s not cheap if you want to go faster and be competitive. My set up cost about 500.
thanks for the tips
The rules say king pin flip allowed for box stock and stock
how did you get that jack skeleton livery on your car., that is amazing.
Hey mark, so we did this today at lone star for my p1 gtr MM wide mini z and it caused my turning to go from actually doing well to now it has tons of understeer. I turned dual rate on steering up and that’s still the problem. Any advice?
Anymore mini-z content on the way?
Nice upgrade for your car's son! Hahaha, cool vid!
How did you like the “mod” did it improve steering?
Sweet! Nice tip thanks for the tutorial! Just wondering I've recent ordered a mini z, what batteries you recommend to race with? If you have a link also that would be great. Cheers
I run the Kyosho 800mah rechargables
Im.new to the MIni-Z platform, more of a Arrma and Vaterra collector from 1/5th scale to 1/16th. What/Where can I get tires, and wheels for these vehicles. Just bought a ZR1, and want aftermarket wheels, and see that the offset to those are way different than the rest "usually +1.5 all around. Any guidance would be helpful. Watching your videos the past 3 days has helped a lot.... Only bad part is that I've bought 6 cars already, and maybe 4 extra bodies.
Last but not least, is the Sports 2 cars worth getting over the other new RWD platform?
Where are you guys located? Would love to find a group with myself and the kids.
Thanks!
Love the content
Me to
Couple days my first mini z, and a mini q. I'm excited... except I do have the 4x4 Suzuki, but that doesn't count...
Looking into these cars for me and my son , but the price point is kind of a no go . He already has a raptor , so I was thinking of buying one for myself in the next few months . Love the videos !
right....1/28th scale and tiny plastic is not worth 180.00
Been a while but k969 is like 60-90 bucks depending on where you get it. It's cool.
Do you know if the track is 30 or 50cm tiles?
would it be easier to cut that pin first?
Cool vids iam recent new subscriber and to nitros have revo and tmaxx 3.3 no holes cut in body front windshield yet noticed you haven't cut holes either is it necessary for better cooling or just leave it stock no holes?
You dont need it if tune it correctly. If where you live its really hot it might help
would this work on the MA-020?
Was Dadzilla on the Marshall stick?!?!🤣🤣🤣
This guy going to make me buy a miniz That's for sure
works perfectly ! esay mod
Wow. Im doing this!
2:34 my cars son
When are we going to see the Fox UDR ?
Super soon
does it need to be the same car as the vid
I can't figure out why this class isn't
more popular? Great way to pull people into a store and don't need a lot of space.
Because they cost almost $200 if you're doing stock racing, pretty expensive for something so small
@@woutchauvaux6672 The ESC in my 1/10 buggy cost $200 🤷♂️
@Wout Chauvaux size doesn't equate to pricing. Go compare HO, N or Z scale trains and the precision involved with each one.
You can drop way more money on 1/8 scale, too.
My point is that size doesn’t equate to pricing in every case. Race quality servo for these are $55, easily double this in 1/10. If you get a readyset McLaren Senna edition at the same price point. The level of paint, decals, scale details for the body alone would cost well over $100 in 1/10.
Scale speed gets ridiculously fast with these too, 600 kph stock to 2800 and higher fully modified brushless. These are precision made, not bashers. People try to compare basher and toy pricing to hobby grade precision; it just isn't the case. An exploded diagram if the assembly parts will show just how much is going on here. All the way down to pinuon and gear choices, just like larger scales.
Itty bitty screws are a massive PIA. I’ve upgraded a humber of things on my SCX24 CRC Jeep and those little buggers can simply vanish....then later, my wife with perfect vision, will walk thru and see one on the other side of our kitchen from where I was working ...
I want the Camaro or the Corvette but there sold out everywhere I have looked ..
nice
Just did this myself
So basically reversing it and not using the c clip
What would you recommend e revo or maxx
erevo
What should i do if a I get an erevo for Christmas. Other than rod ends.
Uh... you should drive it
@@bikesandrc4387 R/woooooosh
servo ;)
That's almost like a bump stop
I saw a lot of 3 of these on ebay for 200 bucks and I was like ehh where I live I don't have a track
Wouldn't it have been easier to just remove the c clip? That's what is limiting the travel.
Cars son handled 😁
COOL VIDEO MARK👍QUICK QUESTION HOW COME WE NEVER SEE U RACING THE MINI Z🤔😁JK I WANNA SEE U BATTLE IT AGAINS YOUR KID 915 IN THE HOUSE✌
I do but when both my sons are racing i rather make sure their cars are ready.
@@MarkSantaMaria I got my cen suzuki jimny and mini t 2.0 brushless an want to start TH-cam video what do u recommend?there's no video yet on these RC's so that's how I want to start...THANK U STAY SAFE AND THE KIDS ✌
Yo dude I really like watching your videos but I can't afford a mini z I hope one day I can buy my first mini z
my mini z is made like this mod. Keyosho must have been watching haha. or atleast it looks like thats how there built now
Hey! WARNING!
This mod can cause the problem with blocking the wheel during cornering by touching the body.
I was pretty amazed how suspension started to move freely after I made this mode. But it was the clear for me that there some reason to limit the movement of suspension. After mod sometimes on the high speed cornering car is rapidly spin because outer wheel touches the body.
So I fixed this by following manner: I put long screws(8 mm) instead of short ones, which are hold the body plate. Thus you limit the arm way a lot. But there still 2-3 mil play. Then I made fine adjustment by placing 2 shims (included to the kit) on top of wheel hub.
So now I have very smooth suspension but with limit to prevent wheel blocking.
Your making me wanna buy a new Mini Z 🙄
I’ve got an original one with the Am 27mhz radio and the old Overland version which is a 2wd off road chassis with an SUV or F150 body you can lock the diff for off-road traction (mine has tiny damped shocks but std is friction shocks) otherwise it’s a basic Mini Z. I’m still waiting for a 4x4 one I’ve found the one I want but it’s always in the wrong color I know you know how that is 😂
Me following along with this mod only to find out I need a dam drimle
👌🔥👍😍
The mod is what appears to be all the racers do.
I can't believe these things cost so much money when they are so cheaply made. It's insane.
I think it has to do more with the Quality Control. but they probably still mark it up 120% I bet.
Your mainly paying for the body. The bodies alone are 50-70 dollars which is where you make a killing at
@@tonythehitman1 Bodies don't cost that much. I can get an e-revo body for $30 from traxxas that just needs paint and the clipless system installed onto it. No way those bodies cost them more than $10-15 to make. Not to mention they sell a brushless, bodyless, wheelless, transmitterless, and receiverless mini z for $200... By the time it's finished you can buy a new senton 3s instead, or build a gen 8 crawler. Associated sells a $55 28th scale. Traxxas sells an 18th scale $110 4wd car with fully independent suspension.
@@KTMcaptain yea I know. I'm in the same boat you are in. I just bought a 1/10 erevo body so I know exactly what you mean lol. But Gl and kyosho pretty much have that on lockdown. Xmods didn't stay around to long. Its all a monopoly
@@tonythehitman1 yeah, it sucks. I'd love to get one, but not when I can get a tamiya tt02 for less.
Love the video, thank you. Hate the masks though, just sayin..
I was almost first...
No no no
Yeaaaaahhhh I’m early
Putting your cars son aside??
I was okay untill he said i had to cut the little metal nub off😭i cant do that
Maybe if these things cost like $50 they would be fun but i ant drop 200 on one of these
in belgium they are almost 300€ for a crawler or lm. for that price you can buy a nice 1/10 car
Then this hobby is not for you .
@@speedteamhpi It doesn't change the fact, that he has right to criticize it. Even if RC cars are his hobby.
@@memfault go tell someone who cares . This person clearly doesn't know the hobby or can afford it .. that's why the ignorant comment , What you and him do not realize is that these are highly collectable and only go up in value as they age . So yeah 200 is a great price .
@@speedteamhpi I totally disagree. I have feeling that you make feel yourself better, because "you can afford" and disregard (and projects that's a fact) that anybody criticizing it, are those "who can't afford it".
The fact is that you don't even know if he (or me) can afford it or not.
About buying mini-z being sure investment, it's not a true. There are some limited runs that can be investment put on the shelve, but not every(or even most of them, especially used ones, with scratches, etc), because they are relatively popular and mass produced hardware from years, with bright future (because it's popular, and people buying them, will not be alone). But even many owners and fans of them, criticize them for their prize. I would prefer some open ecosystem/standard.
Beside that if I had many friends driving mini-z's I would probably buy at least few of them. But mini-z are big, so need big track. Wife even hates small 3m^2 1:43 track I've reduced it to and kids really love it.
When talking about some collectibles from Kyosho, buy discontinued Dnanos, not mini-z's. They are skyrocketing in prices currently. I would like to buy few of them, because already got 1:43 track(from Siku Racing. Cars are very nice die cast metals. But subpar to drive and nightmare for maintenance. But I still like them and playing with them. Recently bought used robitronic lap counting systems[tried to buy new, but even official store doesn't know when they will be back).
I also like collecting some stuff. Got hundreds of cartridges for NES and SNES systems including some rare hardware.
Got also some vintage Tomy electromechanical games. It would be real investement if I ever would like to sell it.
I really could buy mini-z if I would like too. But I hope that 1:43 will be resurrected by many manufacturers in few years, with even much more robust hardware then mini-z(you must upgrade it with metal parts to be reliable). So I'm not a person that hates it or can not afford(maybe not whole shelve of it, like some guys ;-).
I even think that 90% of people in EU could afford them, if they would. $200-$500 is not such prohibitive price. Evan people buying some cheaper options, are spending more by buying multiple rc cars or something.
People are spending more annually on their iPhones, etc. But even many of them are not happy with Apple practices(not only inital price, but lack of spare parts, etc)
I think that you are taking mini-z's too much seriously and emotionally. It's only stupid rc-cars, that are popular, but not anything amazing or special(detailed, but cheap plastic bodies(and most of the mechanics).
Because of long history, good availability of spare parts, good quality control(on factory) and popularity there is hype for them. It's simply sure bet for potential buyers that whole thing will not collapse in two years(like with anything new, or entering market).
So people know it's overpriced(for what it is), but whole ecosystem(supply chains of parts and new cars, dedicated tracks and tournaments are keeping mini-z alive).
Siku Racing cars were also initally sold for $50-80 per car or *20-$30 per few track tiles.
Then went Lidl with their Playtive(utilizing some Siku parts, like motors with differentials, batteries. Probably licensed, because both Lidl and Siku are big brands).
While cars were a bit subpar(plastic), the whole set(2 cars + big track + lap counting system) sold for $50.
Even those who disliked cars from Lidl, driven Siku Racing or Kyosho Dnano on them. When Siku Racing and Kyosho Dnano collapsed whole ecosystem collapsed (replaced by mini-z mostly).
I think that many people want good out-of-the-box experience. So if Kyosho want to survive, they must make two lines:
- one cheap(dump prices for current offering)
- premium line, with mostly metal mechanics.
Otherwise somebody will enter the market with better product(out-of-the-box) with initial price-dumping and will eat the cake.