Search ;LAYER: Replace ;START of TakePhoto routine G91 ;Use relative positioning mode G1 E-4 F1800 ;Retract 4mm of filament G1 Z2 F2000 ;Move Z up 2mm G90 ;Use absolute positioning mode G1 F13000 X300 Y200 ;Quick move to rear right G1 F1000 X309 ;Poke G1 F9000 X307 ;Move 2mm to the left G4 P800 ;Pause for 0.5seconds G91 ;Use relative positioning mode G1 Z-2 F2000 ;Return Z to current Layer G90 ;Go back to absolute position mode for all axes just paused the video and copied, not sure if works yet.
I want to print foaming filiment of rc airplanes but it cant be reracted meaning it will mess up beacuse it keeps moving to click the clicker i have a usb camera and cura.
Search ;LAYER: Replace ;START of TakePhoto routine G91 ;Use relative positioning mode G1 E-4 F1800 ;Retract 4mm of filament G1 Z2 F2000 ;Move Z up 2mm G90 ;Use absolute positioning mode G1 F13000 X300 Y200 ;Quick move to rear right G1 F1000 X309 ;Poke G1 F9000 X307 ;Move 2mm to the left G4 P800 ;Pause for 0.5seconds G91 ;Use relative positioning mode G1 Z-2 F2000 ;Return Z to current Layer G90 ;Go back to absolute position mode for all axes
Nice! I got my cr10s and you were the only guy who could properly explain the assembly! Thanks so much! But how to you combine all of these photos into a timelapse effect?
Does that still work? I entered the Gcode at Cura everything is correct. There is a red number next to the “slice” button. What can I do and which cura do you use?
i did everything this video showed to do even manually typed in the same code into notepad then transfered but then when i went to print it didnt do the timelapse part please help
I have implemented these codes. However, while the hotend is returning, it moves very slowly and filament flows from the nozzle tip. This also spoils the printed object. I added F13000 to the last G90 row to make the return motion faster, but there was no change in the moving speed.
Ya that was a problem I had in the beginning too. every printer is different so you need to change either the retraction settings or input a speed code.
Search ;LAYER:
Replace
;START of TakePhoto routine
G91 ;Use relative positioning mode
G1 E-4 F1800 ;Retract 4mm of filament
G1 Z2 F2000 ;Move Z up 2mm
G90 ;Use absolute positioning mode
G1 F13000 X300 Y200 ;Quick move to rear right
G1 F1000 X309 ;Poke
G1 F9000 X307 ;Move 2mm to the left
G4 P800 ;Pause for 0.5seconds
G91 ;Use relative positioning mode
G1 Z-2 F2000 ;Return Z to current Layer
G90 ;Go back to absolute position mode for all axes
just paused the video and copied, not sure if works yet.
THANK YOU!
Not all heroes wear capes!
Thanks for sharing this video! You explained it much butter than all the other videos I watched
Glad it was helpful!
Wow! Thanks a lot for this video!! It works perfectly!!! :) :) :)
Happy to help
Very cool.
Thank you sir.
Can you please post a link to the "poker" file.
I love you man 😅😅
I love you too!
perfect
🔥❤👍
Any idea how to make the phone awake when long layer time? On my phone max screen timeout is 10 min and one it's locked it's screwed
where I can find the STL file for the earphones mount?
I want to print foaming filiment of rc airplanes but it cant be reracted meaning it will mess up beacuse it keeps moving to click the clicker i have a usb camera and cura.
Hi where is the g code? It isnt in the description
Search ;LAYER:
Replace
;START of TakePhoto routine
G91 ;Use relative positioning mode
G1 E-4 F1800 ;Retract 4mm of filament
G1 Z2 F2000 ;Move Z up 2mm
G90 ;Use absolute positioning mode
G1 F13000 X300 Y200 ;Quick move to rear right
G1 F1000 X309 ;Poke
G1 F9000 X307 ;Move 2mm to the left
G4 P800 ;Pause for 0.5seconds
G91 ;Use relative positioning mode
G1 Z-2 F2000 ;Return Z to current Layer
G90 ;Go back to absolute position mode for all axes
Nice! I got my cr10s and you were the only guy who could properly explain the assembly! Thanks so much! But how to you combine all of these photos into a timelapse effect?
Nachiket it depends on what software you are using because every software is different I can’t go over that part.
@@SANTUBE I know you were using apple iPhone so how did you merge photos to make video?
can you share the stl of the head phone button holder
The codes aren't in the description
This must add a lot of extra time to the print?
Protomaker Black Sprint Original 3D Printer you are correct, it does add more time.
@@SANTUBE Add another script that ;
Search for: G0 F300
Replace with: G0 F5000 ;makes the movement back to printing a bit faster
@@thamomentum thanks for the info will try it on next time lapse
Does that still work? I entered the Gcode at Cura everything is correct. There is a red number next to the “slice” button. What can I do and which cura do you use?
i did everything this video showed to do even manually typed in the same code into notepad then transfered but then when i went to print it didnt do the timelapse part please help
Did you type ;LAYER: just like that?
When are you coming back.
great video! how you are doing this is great to see
KttJ design hope it works for you too.
where is the description that I have to copy?????
I have implemented these codes. However, while the hotend is returning, it moves very slowly and filament flows from the nozzle tip. This also spoils the printed object. I added F13000 to the last G90 row to make the return motion faster, but there was no change in the moving speed.
Ya that was a problem I had in the beginning too. every printer is different so you need to change either the retraction settings or input a speed code.
hey where's the script that I need to copy and paste into the search and replace bar?
i cant get it to do it =(
You have to increase the speed greatly
Try using octolapse
I met give it a shoot thanks.
My ender 3 isnt going more than 235mm and it doesnt touch the headphones
Then you need to print a poker which attaches to the hot end. This way it will give you that extra few mm’s you need.
@@SANTUBE Do you have an stl for the poker?
WHERE IS THE REPLACE CODE?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!??!?!?
Magnetic Switch is better.
Stl ??!