I bought a suburban one time with a blown engine! I got a smoking deal on it! Before getting a new engine I checked it out and swapped the 5/7 plug wires back to where they belong. It's been running perfect for 5 years now
It's always amazed me that someone could change something on a running vehicle, mess it up and not ask anyone for help, then decide to let the vehicle go, got some great deals on cars when solenoid wires to the starter got switched, peeps are funny.
The old school small block Chevy has been my favorite engine by far, since I first worked on one. My first car, at age 16, was a 1970 Dodge Challenger with a 318, 2 barrel single exhaust. Beautiful car. My feelings about the 318 changed when I had to replace the water pump. The same bolts that hold the water pump also hold the timing cover on. So when I removed the water pump, the timing cover also came loose. Some of those bolts protruded into the water jacket, and the threaded ends were badly rusted. So what should have been a simple job turned into a much larger job. Then the coolant passages in the timing cover corroded, and developed pinhole leaks, allowing coolant into the crankcase. I caught it in time, and had to do everything all over again, with a new timing cover. Then the teeth all sheared off the PLASTIC cam sprocket, destroying the engine. Back in the late '70s, a base model '70 Challenger wasn't worth a fortune like it is today. I sold it cheap, and bought a '72 Rally Nova with a 350. I immediately fell in live with the small block Chevy engine. They are a nearly perfect design. And they can be upgraded with roller cams, lifters, and rockers. I have built and rebuilt LOTS of them, from daily driver engines to drag race engines. There is pretty much nothing you can't do with a small block Chevy. And if built properly, they are super reliable. The most common cause of a ticking sound in a small block Chevy with hydraulic lifters is leaking lifters. They don't pump up properly, so you have too much valve clearance. It's not usually enough to noticeably affect the way they run. A small exhaust leak is easy to mistake for leaking lifters. Are you sure that is the cam and not a collapsed lifter?
Mopar guy but loving the series on this ole Chevy. We’ve all been around a car that dosent want to start or runs rough you go over some great options to try and it’s been fun seeing the thing come alive. Minus the skulls haha
Repaired dozens with popping in the intake in the 80's. Always was a bad cam. Never ticked unless the guide was shot. No ticking because there is nothing moving enough to tick
Thank you so much for reminding everybody that on an old engine there's no such thing as a tooth off you just move the plug wires and turn the distributor to where it needs to be years ago when I was doing that work I ran into that kind of stuff all the time
That's 1 good thing about Mopar engines be it a small block or big block if you pull the distributor out & put it in the wrong way you just flip it 180 and it's back in time again because there's only 2 ways they can go back in either spot on or 180 out . The only other way timing could be off is if the timing chain is stretched or broken or if someone took the distributor out along with the gear that has the slot for the distributor to slide into & they take that out & accidentally turn the engine over with that out then timing will be off & then the process of finding TDC to get the cam & crank at TDC then the slotted gear goes back in & the distributor pointed to #1 and your set . Like More Mortskie from Mortskie's repair says super easy peasy .
Something else that happens to old Chevys. Get a guy used to other engines that use rocker studs with a stop, some Fords, Pontiac, probably others. On those, you tighen the rocker nut down against the stop. Get a guy used to those on a Chevy, and if he's stupid, he'll tighten them up until the nut stops turning. Obviously, that doesn't work out real well. Not a Chevy guy, but that simple adjustability is kind of nice.
Well, I tell ya. I had purchased used a 65 Chevrolet Impala that had a 283 engine, and it had a lifter tick from the get-go but otherwise ran well. One day I decided to check that ticking valve and see if I could adjust it, but to no avail. Turns out that the camshaft and lifter was worn excessively. Well being a young man who was broke all of the time I decided to use another camshaft and lifters out of a 307 that I had overheated. That was fine but I did not keep the same lifter on the same lobe and after installing the used camshaft and lifters it was not long before I encountered some but not all lobes on the camshaft wiped out. Well, that was a lesson learned, and I had to go back and replace that used camshaft and lifters with a new one which caused me to eat more peanut butter sandwiches. Lesson learned, had I kept the lifters in order to the lobes that they were running on from the first I might have saved myself the extra time and gaskets by using that set-up. Sometimes you gamble and lose. You also live and learn as well.
I did not see any sludge under the valve covers. If it was mine, I would just change the cam and rebuild the carb. Cutter's Performance channel puts out a lot of good SBC content. He recommends using the genuine GM Performance lifters with flat tappet cams. In one of his videos, he showed how to test for correct crown on a lifter.
Perfect time for a roller cam upgrade. When my crankshaft was toast from spinning 5 bearings I increased my stroke to bump my CID from 364 to 402 and my bottom end is forged now. Sometimes you gotta make lemonade out of your lemons
I lost a cam last year in a 350. Same thing, lifter still had hydraulic preload on the lifter so no click click, just bang bang pop. Wife was driving it when it let go, she came home and said, " something doesn't sound right, its hiccuping. " LOL!
I thought about that, but the rocker arm adjusting nut seems to be at about the same level as all the others. I've seen a number of 67-69 Chevies with bad cams and no lifter noise.
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I'm surprised that the number 2 exhaust lobe failed as the Chevy engines with bad cam lobes I've worked on over the years that backfired through the carb, it was always the number 1 exhaust lobe.
Was just thinking about the old days of UTG when you used to throw parts out on the side of the road. Those videos were some of my favorite. For nostalgia sake you should do another one!
For sale, 67 Impala 4 dr., mild custom, needs plugs, as seen on TV in the Supernatural series! $25,000 firm, no lowballers, if the ad is up it's available...
@@davidreed6070 Haven't owned a TV since 2011, so I don't know, I'm just going off other people's comments about the car and show and basically making a slightly humorous comment to feed the algorithm monster for Tony.
I'm one of the guys who called it a bad cam. I'm 10 years older than Tony, and I worked on these cars when they were almost new. I saw several 67-69 SBCs with ne round lobe, altho it was usually one of the rear 4 cylinders. That said, none of them had any ticking either! It will be interesting to see what happens to that car next!
Thank you. Tony said the “soft cam” thing only effected 2 years of production on 305 engines. I replaced a shitload of small block 305 and 350, and 229 V6 cams in the late 1980s and early 1990s. GM was still reimbursing the repair cost to the original owners of those cars at that time. Also, Crane Cams sold stock replacement cam kits for dirt cheap because this problem was so widespread. The kit included cam,lifters and gaskets as I recall. It cost about $80 wholesale. A stock 327/300HP cam from your friendly neighborhood Chevy dealer was more than $200 wholesale for the cam alone.
I had this happen on a 69 Chevrolet C10 pickup I bought from someone I worked with in the 90s that I tuned up changed oil and did maintenance on it and was daily driving it all spring and summer and just about the time it was getting cold before winter in MN the dam camshaft went flat . So off to M&I auto to buy a new complete cam kit with new lifters and timing chain push rods and lifters and a few hours later I was done with it after flushing the oil pan multiple times and putting a new oil filter on it and did the cam break in procedure and it ran great again . I drove that truck for about 2 years and ended up selling it to someone else I worked with that really likes these trucks who bought it from me and he still had the truck to this day when talking to him about 2 weeks ago and he's finally having the engine rebuilt and is fixing the body up and paid some guy to air bag the suspension to drop it way down low with a chopped top rat rod look . My 77 400 SBC Chev the cam in that did the same thing years ago that I fixed that was in my K5 blazer 4x4 plow truck at that time & that engine was transplanted into a 82 K10 I bought with a clean body minus the blown Diesel and that's my new plow truck to plow my driveway out with now that I built in 2018 that I just did a intake swap for better performance and rebuilt the plow on it and it's almost ready for winter in Wisconsin now but now that I did all of this work now I suppose I won't get back for snow again this winter which is ok with me lol . The good thing about buying this other truck is that I stripped everything off of the blazer that would work on the 82 so I got both axles drive shafts transfer case and a spare good TH350 as spares just in case I need them one day knowing that they worked good .
wow,, well my 1980 caprice had same issues, when I though was a spark plug, or wire,, and the engine shake horrible,, Until in a chevy forum , mention it check the for camshaft problem,, removing the valve cover,, and,,, it was there, cylinder #7...
Uncle Tony, Nothing wrong with tearing apart a Chevy engine. It will just let The Mopar guys appreciate their engines more! PS- The owned a 72 with a 307 in it that ran like the wind! I blew a lifter and had fun with brother ripping it apart!
On 1-22-2024 at 5:40am I am guessing Tony will install a 409 or some other W series engine. Hès too excited for the replacement engine to be a more common offering like a 454 or a modern LS.
Though I am a Mopar guy and die hard through and through I’ve owned vehicles from both GM/Chevy and Ford, i always have and do have a love for Chevy engines….I currently have a 350 small block 4 bolt main sitting in my garage been sitting for many years lol
Right off the top of my head I would have said that we have a problem with an intake valve as Tony said, but where I drive for an independent contractor, another driver repaired a diesel engine that was popping back through the intake and lo and behold, he also found a problem with an exhaust valve. This driver having worked in automotive dealerships told me that he also thought the problem was in the intake valve train. After Tony checked the obvious causes, he pretty much resigned himself to check the valve train. Upon hearing the popping back through the carburetor, I knew we most likely had a problem in the valve train which includes everything from the camshaft up to the intake valve. I worked with a fellow who had a repair business, and we went over to the local machine shop to drive a Pontiac Firebird back to his shop to determine what was wrong with the engine that the machine shop had built but another mechanic had installed. Well on the drive back to the shop the car was popping back through the carburetor, and I told the fellow that it appeared we had a problem with the valve train. Sure, enough we did, the camshaft was wiped out. It seems as though the mechanic that installed and fired up the engine did not break the camshaft in properly and there was a wiped-out lobe. Of course, the automotive machine shop would have been ahead of the game to have run the engine in on a stand and break it in properly thereby eliminating that headache, especially since they had to repair the engine under warranty. The owner of the car (who happened to be an over the road truck driver had paid good money for the engine rebuild was of course not happy) but the car was fixed properly and that is all one can do but learn a lesson from this incident.
I called it in the first video, that late 70s or early 80s engine was the anchor that kept it from floating down stream in the flood to the gulf of Mexico. Lol
You don't see it around today a much seems the issue showed up in the 80s and early 90s, but if someone somehow has a survivor that's never been apart is the nylon coated timing gear, the nylon gets brittle falls off and you have a smaller version of the timing gear and the chain skips causing all kinds of running issues and noise or total catristropic failure.
I'm a Ford guy and I can appreciate the longevity of the small block Chevy... It's too bad that Chevrolet "tried to reinvent the wheel" and cheap out on quality and rush emission controls into production. I have seen my share of soft cam and carboned up 305's!😆
You’re a Ford guy and you’re complaining about Chevy “cheaping out”? All 4 domestic manufacturers cheaped out when it came to emissions compliance. They just applied their “cheapness” differently.
Yup, it was generally the soft stock cams for a period, in the 70s, iirc. The Chevy is stiff on rotating its valvetrain, thus making anything weak here result in a failure.
Well on your last video You had that Chevy running and I could hear a tick My eyes aren't so good but my ears work pretty darn good And I definitely hurt a tick.!!😇😇
It's gonna be a Jaguar V12 swap, right? right? I guess it might as well be unobtainium, but imagine how smooth and powerful like a luxury boat should be. Not available? Ok, drop a hemi something or other in it and hear it roar.
I love the gen I small blocks , too, and I have seen more than one that DID NOT tick with a flat cam !! Some do, some don't. I'm not only a Chevy guy, I love all the bone simple, efficient pushrod V8's that were Detroit's mainstay for so many years. Love them or hate on them, the Gen 3-Gen 4 Chevy LS v8's and the Gen 3 Hemi were the last of this breed, in NON variable displacement form !!
Ah ha! I get a pizza! I did call dead exhaust lobe. I had a 283 that had a dead intake lobe. Idled like crap, always loping, but otherwise ran fine, likewise no tick. Drove it that way for years. Now I am a die hard, hard core Chevy guy, first gen 283-327 that is. It's great that even as Mopar man you still respect the old Chevys. I enjoy your channel, and have picked up quite a bit of respect for Mopars as a result. I would not mind owning one at all! Missed the boat now, but would love to have a 66-67 Belvedere or Satellite. I think they were the best looking 60's Mopars.
He said it is going to be interesting. Nothing interesting about the 47millionth LS swap on TH-cam. Plus that is totally not Uncle Tony’s style. I’m guessing the guy got his hands on an old 348 or 409.
@michaellehmann2803 I agree with you I wouldn't expect Uncle Tony to want to do an LS but usually guys with purple paint and skulls are all into an LS swap. Personally I would rather just about any other swap I'm hoping for either a 409 348 or a 396. And if it's not a motor swap I hope it's a Roots blower
I was right. But then, I've seen this dozens of times. I worked at GM dealerships during the 70's 80's and 90's. Between the softer metals, and lack of ZDDP in oil, this was a pretty common occurrence.
I was fooled! Without the tick I had my doubts of a wiped cam lobe! There was the occasion we hear I bought a small block from a guy that he said had a bad cam….but what actually happened was the rocker stud had pulled out of the head about a quarter inch which gave a similar effect on the engine! Unfortunately you have to pull the head to fix it properly! I couldn’t tell if this was the situation here but it didn’t look like it since when that happens the nut is screwed down so far there are a lot of threads showing!
3:19 uncommon knowledge- peeps always do that thinking they need to pop the distributor to fix it- i once got a bunch of crap for rotating my whole firing order cuz she was 180 out.
Had that the same thing happened and the same sound. 69 Chevy truck only above 3000 it would back rap through the carb. Took it apart, cam lobe rounded flat, no tick. Must had been adjusted to tight.
The forgotten Chevy 267 2bbl 79-82 was very common and more so had the bad cams. Few and far 305’s had it but they take a rap for it the 305. A LG3 305 76-79 LG3 2bbl ran like a SOB, even the LG4 4bbl version ran forever, not powerful but got the job done. I have had 14 Chevy Caprice’s all with 305’s and many work Vans with a 305 and had no issues on any of them. Just my thoughts, have a great Thanksgiving all! 🙋🏻♂️
I strongly disagree. The 267 was a shit engine, but GM only produced it for a few years. They built millions of 305 flat tappet engines & many of them had “soft” cams. Even if the 305 cams failed at HALF the rate of 267 cams, the 305 would still be the cam failure champion.
@@alantrimble2881I never had one go bad, and over half the 305’s I had put will over 200k miles on them, all stock, never an issue…. My Father had an 81 Impala with that under powered 267 but it ran well that being said. You say Tomato some say To”Mato” lol 😂
I'm buying myself a pizza. I was 99% certain it was a bad cam, and an exhaust lobe to be precise. The very first cam swap I ever did was on my old Man's '76 Chevy Crew cab with a 350. It sounded just like the purple people eater when you got it running. I think it had less than 60,000 miles on it at the time...would have been 1981 or so. GM had a bad run of soft cams around that time.
I acquired a Camaro with a 350 that hadn't ran in a while.. when I got it to run it would sit there and idle all day...as soon as I touched the gas...it was like someone lit fire crackers on top the intake...no tick or any other indication..but I knew what was up and later tore the engine down and low and behold. I stuffed another in it for now but intend on rebuilding it since it is the numbers matching motor to the car.
Yes, the 1979-1980 small block Chevrolet V8s (as you noted the 305 V8 in particular) had the infamous "soft cam" from GM. Likely GM in their infinite wisdom made a change to "save" money and it cost then. Back then, a replacement with a stock Sealed Power or other OEM replacement cam solved the issue. My grandfather's 1979 Caprice had it done under warranty circa 1980-1981 before he got the car used in 1983. Whatever you do, please don't "LS Swap The World" and put an LS in this. Keep it real Chevrolet powered with a traditional small block of that era. Even though this is a "hooptie", it has survived more or less in one piece over 50 years as a normal small block.
I saw that the vacuum advance was kinda rigged to the manifold port that is usually used for the brake booster, and that the timed port wasn’t plugged.
Not surprising. I made the mistake of buying a brand new 77 Malibu Classic with a 305, thinking I'd get better mileage. Big mistake. Not enough power for that size of car. Good looking car, but I should've gotten a 350. I learned my lesson.
My Brother-in-law had a 77-78 Chevy van with a 350 that started having a valve tick, he just kept taking the valve cover off and tightening it down, until one day starting it he blew the muffler off (duals) it split the muffler almost completely into. So I pulled the engine for him and tore it down, it had an exhaust cam lobe worn completely off. We did had to find a used head because that one was cracked really bad on that exhaust valve, did a rering kit, new cam and lifters. Ran real well until he sold the van years later. Junk Chevy cams.
Lol, chevys are a dime a dozen, yank it and drop in a crate or rebuilt. Might be cool to show the shopping and narrowing down of the process and targeting the wants/needs vs availability.
Wow, I thought cam but also thought bent push rod leaning more towards that since I have had that before without a tick and my motor had a similar noise that motor has. That is kind of an odd but usual sound of a wiped cam or head problem, yes for sure. I love all the old motors also, 350 Chevy motors, about everything, I am not brand loyal. The big three and others put out some excellent motors. Every company built motors that could be built up further to rip. Tony if you ever get sick of building jeep motors and you do fantastic work, you may want to build a Chrysler 400. You know more than I do and I could make 400’s fast. Just be forewarned, you will be amazed and may never be or think the same again. My favorite motor of all time to build is a 400, in my opinion it is one of the highly unknown, pure born race ready block that needs a race ready heads, intake combo bolted to it and a cam installed. Otherwise Jeep motors are in the time now like the 400’s we’re back then but certainly not as dangerous as a race ready souped up 400 in my opinion only. You are putting respect in a Jeep. That thing could take most cars on the road. That thing, for what it is, really rips. What you do is cool.
@Jake-tb2sl it would be fun to look under the hood and see some dogleg chrome covers and use the hillborn X8 log manifold i had for them or the 2x4 crossram setup imagine that hell yeah ..im not sure why 65 was last year after going hyd lifter style setup
I'm having childhood flashbacks of pinning the rocker studs... cutting slots deeper in a set of corsair 1.6 rockers...and replacing the bent pushrods from my first teenage "race" cam... from jc whitney or mars auto parts...can't remember which place sold me the cam kit...or the pop up pistons...sunoco 260 for the win...
Same thing Though was bad cam No Had a knock checked out every thing Rockers, no lift Pull the intake Pull an check out all lifters All good put back together Adjust all valve again This time The rockers started working Still a knock couldn’t tell where Finally pulled engine Oil pan All rods were tight on crank Started checking rod Bering First set perfect Pulled # 1 an # 2 Spun Berings Metal n oil pan Got into the lifter Making them malfunctioning Eng was taking good care of , regular oil changes, not driven hard ever 30,000 miles on that factory rebuild Auto Z engine But the two Berings spun on 1. 2. Why But acted like the cam was bad back fireing Eng misfire Just like the cam was bad ( it was like new the day it was installed) Lifters had metal n them not building up an holding as they should I’m a Chevy guy Built lots of engines Never ran across that problem before Now I really don’t know why the Berings spun Had exlance oil pressure All the rest of the berings were like new Like the day they were installed Eny one any idea why just the two spun an not the rest having any damage at all
just put a intake cam on a 2019 jeep wrangler jl, it didnt pop or even sound off. literally there was a good 3/8 of an inch of material missing from the cam and the weird style rocker the engine had. dealer said it was the only oem cam left in the us. junk! they never shouldve went away from the 4.0 in the wranglers/cherokees. at 46k miles!
did you cut open the oil filter? if the lifter body got shaved, likely debris is there...and then in the 'pump's screen, begging for a quick clean and reassembly.
I bought a suburban one time with a blown engine! I got a smoking deal on it! Before getting a new engine I checked it out and swapped the 5/7 plug wires back to where they belong. It's been running perfect for 5 years now
😂 one mans stupidity is another mans benefit
It's always amazed me that someone could change something on a running vehicle, mess it up and not ask anyone for help, then decide to let the vehicle go, got some great deals on cars when solenoid wires to the starter got switched, peeps are funny.
A lot us, appreciate how UT, takes the time to read the comments. Other channels don't bother with that.
Yes. He is one of the few. Not only reads them buy even replies to them!
UTG is on an uploading spree, loving it! Keep it coming.
Trump has given us all new hope and some new fwends lol Not sure i will miss some old fwends tho
I think this is the only channel where one day you are reading people’s comment suggestions and the very next day they are trying it out!
The old school small block Chevy has been my favorite engine by far, since I first worked on one. My first car, at age 16, was a 1970 Dodge Challenger with a 318, 2 barrel single exhaust. Beautiful car. My feelings about the 318 changed when I had to replace the water pump. The same bolts that hold the water pump also hold the timing cover on. So when I removed the water pump, the timing cover also came loose. Some of those bolts protruded into the water jacket, and the threaded ends were badly rusted. So what should have been a simple job turned into a much larger job. Then the coolant passages in the timing cover corroded, and developed pinhole leaks, allowing coolant into the crankcase. I caught it in time, and had to do everything all over again, with a new timing cover. Then the teeth all sheared off the PLASTIC cam sprocket, destroying the engine. Back in the late '70s, a base model '70 Challenger wasn't worth a fortune like it is today. I sold it cheap, and bought a '72 Rally Nova with a 350. I immediately fell in live with the small block Chevy engine. They are a nearly perfect design. And they can be upgraded with roller cams, lifters, and rockers. I have built and rebuilt LOTS of them, from daily driver engines to drag race engines. There is pretty much nothing you can't do with a small block Chevy. And if built properly, they are super reliable.
The most common cause of a ticking sound in a small block Chevy with hydraulic lifters is leaking lifters. They don't pump up properly, so you have too much valve clearance. It's not usually enough to noticeably affect the way they run. A small exhaust leak is easy to mistake for leaking lifters. Are you sure that is the cam and not a collapsed lifter?
Mopar guy but loving the series on this ole Chevy. We’ve all been around a car that dosent want to start or runs rough you go over some great options to try and it’s been fun seeing the thing come alive. Minus the skulls haha
lately I have had the itch to do a 302 Ford.......ugh, I am into too many different platforms already.
I am so happy to see you putting hands on the projects. This is the Uncle Tony I love. Thank you
I put a lot of miles on old, high mile, small block Chevys.
Repaired dozens with popping in the intake in the 80's. Always was a bad cam. Never ticked unless the guide was shot. No ticking because there is nothing moving enough to tick
Thank you so much for reminding everybody that on an old engine there's no such thing as a tooth off you just move the plug wires and turn the distributor to where it needs to be years ago when I was doing that work I ran into that kind of stuff all the time
That's 1 good thing about Mopar engines be it a small block or big block if you pull the distributor out & put it in the wrong way you just flip it 180 and it's back in time again because there's only 2 ways they can go back in either spot on or 180 out . The only other way timing could be off is if the timing chain is stretched or broken or if someone took the distributor out along with the gear that has the slot for the distributor to slide into & they take that out & accidentally turn the engine over with that out then timing will be off & then the process of finding TDC to get the cam & crank at TDC then the slotted gear goes back in & the distributor pointed to #1 and your set . Like More Mortskie from Mortskie's repair says super easy peasy .
If this turns into a project it will generate alot of views fingers 🤞
Something else that happens to old Chevys. Get a guy used to other engines that use rocker studs with a stop, some Fords, Pontiac, probably others. On those, you tighen the rocker nut down against the stop. Get a guy used to those on a Chevy, and if he's stupid, he'll tighten them up until the nut stops turning. Obviously, that doesn't work out real well.
Not a Chevy guy, but that simple adjustability is kind of nice.
Well, I tell ya. I had purchased used a 65 Chevrolet Impala that had a 283 engine, and it had a lifter tick from the get-go but otherwise ran well. One day I decided to check that ticking valve and see if I could adjust it, but to no avail. Turns out that the camshaft and lifter was worn excessively. Well being a young man who was broke all of the time I decided to use another camshaft and lifters out of a 307 that I had overheated. That was fine but I did not keep the same lifter on the same lobe and after installing the used camshaft and lifters it was not long before I encountered some but not all lobes on the camshaft wiped out. Well, that was a lesson learned, and I had to go back and replace that used camshaft and lifters with a new one which caused me to eat more peanut butter sandwiches. Lesson learned, had I kept the lifters in order to the lobes that they were running on from the first I might have saved myself the extra time and gaskets by using that set-up. Sometimes you gamble and lose. You also live and learn as well.
Carbureted engine diagnosis is very interesting, I've learned something useful from this.
My guess was that hideous purple carburetor LOL😂😂
I did not see any sludge under the valve covers. If it was mine, I would just change the cam and rebuild the carb. Cutter's Performance channel puts out a lot of good SBC content. He recommends using the genuine GM Performance lifters with flat tappet cams. In one of his videos, he showed how to test for correct crown on a lifter.
on SBC there is now the option for DLC lifters.
Perfect time for a roller cam upgrade. When my crankshaft was toast from spinning 5 bearings I increased my stroke to bump my CID from 364 to 402 and my bottom end is forged now. Sometimes you gotta make lemonade out of your lemons
I was one of the ones that thought it could be mislocated sparkplug wires, mechanical failure is usually always the least anticipated or welcome...
I lost count of how many SB Chevy "butter" cams and lifters I replaced in the 80's, especially the 305's. Cheers,
There would be some glitter in the oil if the cam was worn down I'd think
As a SBC guy I'm loving your new series. Put an isky 262 cam in it thats a good cheap cam, close enough for that engine.
I lost a cam last year in a 350. Same thing, lifter still had hydraulic preload on the lifter so no click click, just bang bang pop. Wife was driving it when it let go, she came home and said, " something doesn't sound right, its hiccuping. " LOL!
Keeper!
😂😂 hiccuping is a nice way of describing a critical failure of the valve train
Probably was tightened before because it was making noise lol. Good video Tony
I thought about that, but the rocker arm adjusting nut seems to be at about the same level as all the others. I've seen a number of 67-69 Chevies with bad cams and no lifter noise.
I'm surprised that the number 2 exhaust lobe failed as the Chevy engines with bad cam lobes I've worked on over the years that backfired through the carb, it was always the number 1 exhaust lobe.
Was just thinking about the old days of UTG when you used to throw parts out on the side of the road. Those videos were some of my favorite. For nostalgia sake you should do another one!
For sale, 67 Impala 4 dr., mild custom, needs plugs, as seen on TV in the Supernatural series! $25,000 firm, no lowballers, if the ad is up it's available...
I had a friend of mine who always said that "all the engine needs is plug wires". He should have been a car salesman.
The very car or one like it. That car wad a 4 door hard top , wasnt it?
@@davidreed6070 Haven't owned a TV since 2011, so I don't know, I'm just going off other people's comments about the car and show and basically making a slightly humorous comment to feed the algorithm monster for Tony.
47 seconds in and I'm thinking loose rocker nut, like it came off. That happened on a 350 I had once.....and that wasn't it.
I'm one of the guys who called it a bad cam. I'm 10 years older than Tony, and I worked on these cars when they were almost new. I saw several 67-69 SBCs with ne round lobe, altho it was usually one of the rear 4 cylinders. That said, none of them had any ticking either! It will be interesting to see what happens to that car next!
I'm liking this series & tuned in to what happens next
Imagine that, a small block Chevy with a peanut butter cam. Very common from 1977 to 1980. Been there,done that.
Thank you. Tony said the “soft cam” thing only effected 2 years of production on 305 engines. I replaced a shitload of small block 305 and 350, and 229 V6 cams in the late 1980s and early 1990s. GM was still reimbursing the repair cost to the original owners of those cars at that time. Also, Crane Cams sold stock replacement cam kits for dirt cheap because this problem was so widespread. The kit included cam,lifters and gaskets as I recall. It cost about $80 wholesale. A stock 327/300HP cam from your friendly neighborhood Chevy dealer was more than $200 wholesale for the cam alone.
I had this happen on a 69 Chevrolet C10 pickup I bought from someone I worked with in the 90s that I tuned up changed oil and did maintenance on it and was daily driving it all spring and summer and just about the time it was getting cold before winter in MN the dam camshaft went flat . So off to M&I auto to buy a new complete cam kit with new lifters and timing chain push rods and lifters and a few hours later I was done with it after flushing the oil pan multiple times and putting a new oil filter on it and did the cam break in procedure and it ran great again . I drove that truck for about 2 years and ended up selling it to someone else I worked with that really likes these trucks who bought it from me and he still had the truck to this day when talking to him about 2 weeks ago and he's finally having the engine rebuilt and is fixing the body up and paid some guy to air bag the suspension to drop it way down low with a chopped top rat rod look . My 77 400 SBC Chev the cam in that did the same thing years ago that I fixed that was in my K5 blazer 4x4 plow truck at that time & that engine was transplanted into a 82 K10 I bought with a clean body minus the blown Diesel and that's my new plow truck to plow my driveway out with now that I built in 2018 that I just did a intake swap for better performance and rebuilt the plow on it and it's almost ready for winter in Wisconsin now but now that I did all of this work now I suppose I won't get back for snow again this winter which is ok with me lol . The good thing about buying this other truck is that I stripped everything off of the blazer that would work on the 82 so I got both axles drive shafts transfer case and a spare good TH350 as spares just in case I need them one day knowing that they worked good .
Also can pull the rocker arm stud out by over revving the motor. Usually only happens on the pressed in studs.
Great diagnosis, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Mid 80s i also saw a few broken rocker arms. Same symptoms.
My personal favorite was the 267, which had a habit of losing the press fit on the rocker studs. Gutless, unreliable engine.
wow,, well my 1980 caprice had same issues, when I though was a spark plug, or wire,, and the engine shake horrible,, Until in a chevy forum , mention it check the for camshaft problem,, removing the valve cover,, and,,, it was there, cylinder #7...
I thought if the the lobe was wiped the valve wouldnt open and it wouldnt pop thru the carb . Learned new stuff , Thanks
it's usually the opposite lobe exhaust well pop through the intake and intake lobe pop through the exhaust. thanks tony
Say ‘Tell Tale Tick’ 5 times fast!
Oh yeah. Let's do something crazy! Hope they can put it together :) love the channel!
Seems like I've been waiting for this for years. Wait I have chevy lovers.
you should do diagnostic competitions. Like the first one to post the correct diagnosis, gets some sort of prize.
I’m guessing the cool thing is you’re going to stuff a 4.0L In-line 6 from a Jeep Cherokee in it
LOL, I was thinking a 292 straight six out of a pickup would be interesting.
@@willymccoy3427 250 with a cam & 4bbl?
@@dddevildogg That would almost be a straight bolt in. The 292 would require the passenger side motor mount be moved forward a little bit.
@@willymccoy3427 They came stock with a 250 from Detroit- think NYC taxi
Good content. Better than Jeep stuff!
Mention 305 is a room full of Chey guys and watch their eyes roll.
I’m really surprised the lavender carburetor accents didn’t help the motor run more calm and smooth.
Hello Tony 👏. It's a Chevy it will go😉
Don't tell me that this guy wants to LS convert this.....Christ, must we LS EVERYTHING now!!!
It's about as exciting as when it seemed like EVERYONE had a 350 chevy of some flavor of it in everything!
That's what I thought
We must resist
A junkyard 5.3 with a dingle ball hone, new rings, gaskets and seals is not a major expense. Maybe convert to carb
I think dr johnson even sells ls swapped dildoes now
Uncle Tony,
Nothing wrong with tearing apart a Chevy engine. It will just let The Mopar guys appreciate their engines more!
PS- The owned a 72 with a 307 in it that ran like the wind! I blew a lifter and had fun with brother ripping it apart!
On 1-22-2024 at 5:40am I am guessing Tony will install a 409 or some other W series engine. Hès too excited for the replacement engine to be a more common offering like a 454 or a modern LS.
No, please don't do a LS swap.Keep it simple and just rebuild/replace what it needs to run good. And for God's sake, de-funk that interior!
@deliveryguyrx I predict Tony will NOT do an LS swap but rather a 409 or 348.
Though I am a Mopar guy and die hard through and through I’ve owned vehicles from both GM/Chevy and Ford, i always have and do have a love for Chevy engines….I currently have a 350 small block 4 bolt main sitting in my garage been sitting for many years lol
Right off the top of my head I would have said that we have a problem with an intake valve as Tony said, but where I drive for an independent contractor, another driver repaired a diesel engine that was popping back through the intake and lo and behold, he also found a problem with an exhaust valve. This driver having worked in automotive dealerships told me that he also thought the problem was in the intake valve train. After Tony checked the obvious causes, he pretty much resigned himself to check the valve train. Upon hearing the popping back through the carburetor, I knew we most likely had a problem in the valve train which includes everything from the camshaft up to the intake valve. I worked with a fellow who had a repair business, and we went over to the local machine shop to drive a Pontiac Firebird back to his shop to determine what was wrong with the engine that the machine shop had built but another mechanic had installed. Well on the drive back to the shop the car was popping back through the carburetor, and I told the fellow that it appeared we had a problem with the valve train. Sure, enough we did, the camshaft was wiped out. It seems as though the mechanic that installed and fired up the engine did not break the camshaft in properly and there was a wiped-out lobe. Of course, the automotive machine shop would have been ahead of the game to have run the engine in on a stand and break it in properly thereby eliminating that headache, especially since they had to repair the engine under warranty. The owner of the car (who happened to be an over the road truck driver had paid good money for the engine rebuild was of course not happy) but the car was fixed properly and that is all one can do but learn a lesson from this incident.
4.3l suffered as well. Not at first but the mpfi ones did. thank you for sharing.
The 229 preceded the 4.3/262. It also suffered from “soft” cams.
I called it in the first video, that late 70s or early 80s engine was the anchor that kept it from floating down stream in the flood to the gulf of Mexico. Lol
You don't see it around today a much seems the issue showed up in the 80s and early 90s, but if someone somehow has a survivor that's never been apart is the nylon coated timing gear, the nylon gets brittle falls off and you have a smaller version of the timing gear and the chain skips causing all kinds of running issues and noise or total catristropic failure.
I haven't watched this video yet but just had a bad distributor doing this same thing in a Pontiac 350 engine. I went through hell trying to find it.
I'm a Ford guy and I can appreciate the longevity of the small block Chevy... It's too bad that Chevrolet "tried to reinvent the wheel" and cheap out on quality and rush emission controls into production. I have seen my share of soft cam and carboned up 305's!😆
You’re a Ford guy and you’re complaining about Chevy “cheaping out”? All 4 domestic manufacturers cheaped out when it came to emissions compliance. They just applied their “cheapness” differently.
Jimmy carter era...
@@alantrimble2881 I agree... But I never had a small block Ford with a soft cam at 75K!😆
Yup, it was generally the soft stock cams for a period, in the 70s, iirc. The Chevy is stiff on rotating its valvetrain, thus making anything weak here result in a failure.
Well on your last video You had that Chevy running and I could hear a tick My eyes aren't so good but my ears work pretty darn good And I definitely hurt a tick.!!😇😇
It's gonna be a Jaguar V12 swap, right? right? I guess it might as well be unobtainium, but imagine how smooth and powerful like a luxury boat should be. Not available? Ok, drop a hemi something or other in it and hear it roar.
I love the gen I small blocks , too, and I have seen more than one that DID NOT tick with a flat cam !! Some do, some don't. I'm not only a Chevy guy, I love all the bone simple, efficient pushrod V8's that were Detroit's mainstay for so many years. Love them or hate on them, the Gen 3-Gen 4 Chevy LS v8's and the Gen 3 Hemi were the last of this breed, in NON variable displacement form !!
Ah ha! I get a pizza! I did call dead exhaust lobe. I had a 283 that had a dead intake lobe. Idled like crap, always loping, but otherwise ran fine, likewise no tick. Drove it that way for years. Now I am a die hard, hard core Chevy guy, first gen 283-327 that is. It's great that even as Mopar man you still respect the old Chevys. I enjoy your channel, and have picked up quite a bit of respect for Mopars as a result. I would not mind owning one at all! Missed the boat now, but would love to have a 66-67 Belvedere or Satellite. I think they were the best looking 60's Mopars.
SBC roller cam engines FTW. Screw messing with a flat tappet.
This is SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO cool!
I'm sure at one point it was making noise and someone thought hey a tappet out of adjustment 🤔 and tightened down the nut a little bit.
I have a feeling this guy is going to have Tony put an LS in here
He said it is going to be interesting. Nothing interesting about the 47millionth LS swap on TH-cam. Plus that is totally not Uncle Tony’s style. I’m guessing the guy got his hands on an old 348 or 409.
@michaellehmann2803 I agree with you I wouldn't expect Uncle Tony to want to do an LS but usually guys with purple paint and skulls are all into an LS swap. Personally I would rather just about any other swap I'm hoping for either a 409 348 or a 396. And if it's not a motor swap I hope it's a Roots blower
I was right. But then, I've seen this dozens of times. I worked at GM dealerships during the 70's 80's and 90's. Between the softer metals, and lack of ZDDP in oil, this was a pretty common occurrence.
I was fooled! Without the tick I had my doubts of a wiped cam lobe! There was the occasion we hear I bought a small block from a guy that he said had a bad cam….but what actually happened was the rocker stud had pulled out of the head about a quarter inch which gave a similar effect on the engine! Unfortunately you have to pull the head to fix it properly! I couldn’t tell if this was the situation here but it didn’t look like it since when that happens the nut is screwed down so far there are a lot of threads showing!
Yeah i like old school mopars but old Chevys really hard to beat cheap and tons of parts interchangeable 😊
3:19 uncommon knowledge- peeps always do that thinking they need to pop the distributor to fix it- i once got a bunch of crap for rotating my whole firing order cuz she was 180 out.
Had that the same thing happened and the same sound. 69 Chevy truck only above 3000 it would back rap through the carb. Took it apart, cam lobe rounded flat, no tick. Must had been adjusted to tight.
The forgotten Chevy 267 2bbl 79-82 was very common and more so had the bad cams. Few and far 305’s had it but they take a rap for it the 305. A LG3 305 76-79 LG3 2bbl ran like a SOB, even the LG4 4bbl version ran forever, not powerful but got the job done. I have had 14 Chevy Caprice’s all with 305’s and many work Vans with a 305 and had no issues on any of them. Just my thoughts, have a great Thanksgiving all! 🙋🏻♂️
I've changed a lot of cams and never a 305. Lots of GMs, but no 305s. Even a 267 in my dad's Cutless.
I strongly disagree. The 267 was a shit engine, but GM only produced it for a few years. They built millions of 305 flat tappet engines & many of them had “soft” cams. Even if the 305 cams failed at HALF the rate of 267 cams, the 305 would still be the cam failure champion.
@@alantrimble2881I never had one go bad, and over half the 305’s I had put will over 200k miles on them, all stock, never an issue…. My Father had an 81 Impala with that under powered 267 but it ran well that being said. You say Tomato some say To”Mato” lol 😂
@@alantrimble2881 I never said there weren't any, I just never saw them. Most guys just scraped them when they ran bad. LOL
OK lets pull the cam and weld up that cam lobe🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thats what i think too. ,that would be a real great video
I love the video, wish you would do more older Chevy small block videos,
I'm buying myself a pizza. I was 99% certain it was a bad cam, and an exhaust lobe to be precise. The very first cam swap I ever did was on my old Man's '76 Chevy Crew cab with a 350. It sounded just like the purple people eater when you got it running. I think it had less than 60,000 miles on it at the time...would have been 1981 or so. GM had a bad run of soft cams around that time.
New cam and carb rebuild lettsss ggoooo
I am writing this before I even watch. It could be a rocker arm or a valve spring. Never judge until you look under a valve cover first.
I acquired a Camaro with a 350 that hadn't ran in a while.. when I got it to run it would sit there and idle all day...as soon as I touched the gas...it was like someone lit fire crackers on top the intake...no tick or any other indication..but I knew what was up and later tore the engine down and low and behold. I stuffed another in it for now but intend on rebuilding it since it is the numbers matching motor to the car.
Yes, the 1979-1980 small block Chevrolet V8s (as you noted the 305 V8 in particular) had the infamous "soft cam" from GM. Likely GM in their infinite wisdom made a change to "save" money and it cost then. Back then, a replacement with a stock Sealed Power or other OEM replacement cam solved the issue. My grandfather's 1979 Caprice had it done under warranty circa 1980-1981 before he got the car used in 1983.
Whatever you do, please don't "LS Swap The World" and put an LS in this. Keep it real Chevrolet powered with a traditional small block of that era. Even though this is a "hooptie", it has survived more or less in one piece over 50 years as a normal small block.
I saw that the vacuum advance was kinda rigged to the manifold port that is usually used for the brake booster, and that the timed port wasn’t plugged.
Brought back memories of my Uncle's 77 Chevelle with the 305. My old 71 F100 with a 360 FE and 3 on the tree smoked it in a drag race! LOL
Not surprising. I made the mistake of buying a brand new 77 Malibu Classic with a 305, thinking I'd get better mileage. Big mistake. Not enough power for that size of car. Good looking car, but I should've gotten a 350. I learned my lesson.
on a positive note...engine looks clean inside...oil was changed regularly.
Maybe the previous owner just tightened the rocker nut down to make the clicking go away? Well I hope he's got a big block for you to put in it.
Good Video Tony !
My Brother-in-law had a 77-78 Chevy van with a 350 that started having a valve tick, he just kept taking the valve cover off and tightening it down, until one day starting it he blew the muffler off (duals) it split the muffler almost completely into. So I pulled the engine for him and tore it down, it had an exhaust cam lobe worn completely off. We did had to find a used head because that one was cracked really bad on that exhaust valve, did a rering kit, new cam and lifters. Ran real well until he sold the van years later. Junk Chevy cams.
Lol, chevys are a dime a dozen, yank it and drop in a crate or rebuilt. Might be cool to show the shopping and narrowing down of the process and targeting the wants/needs vs availability.
or a big block...
@@knockrotter9372 or just throw a new cam n lifters maybe a roller and a turbo hmm lol
@@ChevyHemi Turbos are getting boring, too!
Rule of thumb the vacuum canister on a distributor should be pointing at number 6
HOWdy U-T-G, ...
BAD bump on a Chebby CAM
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Wow, I thought cam but also thought bent push rod leaning more towards that since I have had that before without a tick and my motor had a similar noise that motor has. That is kind of an odd but usual sound of a wiped cam or head problem, yes for sure. I love all the old motors also, 350 Chevy motors, about everything, I am not brand loyal. The big three and others put out some excellent motors. Every company built motors that could be built up further to rip. Tony if you ever get sick of building jeep motors and you do fantastic work, you may want to build a Chrysler 400. You know more than I do and I could make 400’s fast. Just be forewarned, you will be amazed and may never be or think the same again. My favorite motor of all time to build is a 400, in my opinion it is one of the highly unknown, pure born race ready block that needs a race ready heads, intake combo bolted to it and a cam installed. Otherwise Jeep motors are in the time now like the 400’s we’re back then but certainly not as dangerous as a race ready souped up 400 in my opinion only. You are putting respect in a Jeep. That thing could take most cars on the road. That thing, for what it is, really rips. What you do is cool.
Ok I’ll be the one to throw the wildcard guess on the engine. Chevy 409 dual quads
Nobody would ever do that not a w head motor worth way too much money now
@@rctopfueler2841yea I know I was joking. But imagine 😂
@Jake-tb2sl it would be fun to look under the hood and see some dogleg chrome covers and use the hillborn X8 log manifold i had for them or the 2x4 crossram setup imagine that hell yeah ..im not sure why 65 was last year after going hyd lifter style setup
So it was the cam, just went through that, also no tick. It wore through the lifter until it put a hole in it, so the lifter essentially collapsed.
All motor heads respect mopars, as most of us have had our Asses handed to us by a screaming 340 or a wicked 440 in our earlier days.
this little side project is cool.... not quite like the HEMI GTX... but probably not as much to do.
I'm having childhood flashbacks of pinning the rocker studs...
cutting slots deeper in a set of corsair 1.6 rockers...and replacing the bent pushrods from my first teenage "race" cam...
from jc whitney or mars auto parts...can't remember which place sold me the cam kit...or the pop up pistons...sunoco 260 for the win...
GET READY FOR ALOT MORE SUBSCRIBERS.....SMALL BLOCK CHEVY? HELL YEAH!!!!!!
Same thing
Though was bad cam
No
Had a knock checked out every thing
Rockers, no lift
Pull the intake
Pull an check out all lifters
All good put back together
Adjust all valve again
This time
The rockers started working
Still a knock couldn’t tell where
Finally pulled engine
Oil pan
All rods were tight on crank
Started checking rod Bering
First set perfect
Pulled # 1 an # 2
Spun Berings
Metal n oil pan
Got into the lifter
Making them malfunctioning
Eng was taking good care of , regular oil changes, not driven hard ever
30,000 miles on that factory rebuild
Auto Z engine
But the two Berings spun on 1. 2.
Why
But acted like the cam was bad back fireing
Eng misfire
Just like the cam was bad ( it was like new the day it was installed)
Lifters had metal n them not building up an holding as they should
I’m a Chevy guy
Built lots of engines
Never ran across that problem before
Now
I really don’t know why the Berings spun
Had exlance oil pressure
All the rest of the berings were like new
Like the day they were installed
Eny one any idea why just the two spun an not the rest having any damage at all
That dirty hand grabbing the camera at the end is becoming a UTG trademark lol.
just put a intake cam on a 2019 jeep wrangler jl, it didnt pop or even sound off. literally there was a good 3/8 of an inch of material missing from the cam and the weird style rocker the engine had. dealer said it was the only oem cam left in the us. junk! they never shouldve went away from the 4.0 in the wranglers/cherokees. at 46k miles!
did you cut open the oil filter? if the lifter body got shaved, likely debris is there...and then in the 'pump's screen, begging for a quick clean and reassembly.
You the man Tony
A pizza from seven eleven ? I'm not that drunk yet. Still spinning wrenches on elevators until 3. Good video pie-zon
Today on uncle pumping ain’t easy !! Garage. Lmbo !!
Hell yea I want more Chevy stuff