This was very confusing to follow tbh. You connected the red and black to the little wires coming out the top of the pump, but you also hooked up red and black wires to the power on the battery and ground? Wouldnt that have been 5 wires? I’m confused…..
Very clean install and detailed how to video.The only thing i would do different is put a male and female connection where u soldered the two wires to the pump{6:21} this way if i had to remove the pump housing assembly i wouldn't have to cut the wire but merely disconnect from the male/female connector..Also y not use blue wire instead of the yellow considering it taps into the pump signal wire which is blue also. sry i am ocd when it comes to installs. i mean its even bothering me that a yellow wire turns red lmao..id want to re pin that relay pig tail and make that little portion of yellow wire red....
OCD on builds is not a bad thing! Funny thing is I actually did end up going back a week later and putting a high current connector where I had originally soldered the pump power wires.
Hey mate, Cheers for the vid. I'm putting a walbro 525 with DW relay kit in my EVO X, Can you confirm that black wire coming out from the pump is the one that runs behind the seats and earths next to the battery? Cheers
Awesome video . But I do have a question as I’m stuck right now doing the wiring . What type of wiring are you using in the yellow roll ? Is a 12awg ? Because I went to hone depot and and they told me a southwire 12 AWg stranded would do the trick . It says on the roll 12AWG CU MTW and THWN and THHN and AWM 600 volts .
You can use 12awg they recommended if you want, it won’t cause any issues. But 14-16awg would also be fine. Since this is a signal wire to trip the relay it doesn’t need to supply a ton of amperage anymore so it doesn’t need to be a thick wire. Definitely use stranded wire.
I wired in the DW relay the car will start if we put the signal on the battery but when it’s wired in car doesn’t get any power and pump won’t prime any suggestions?
When you cut the blue wire and you connected the yellow line to blue , what did you do to the other blue side of the wire just closed it off and put tape on it ?
Once you cut that blue wire, only the side we connect the relay to is “hot” the other side no longer has any voltage/current on it. You can leave it loose if you want, or cover it with tape/heat shrink. It won’t matter, just preference.
Those side by side solder connections can't be that strong.There's a reason that copper is used for wires. The wires aren't even touching which means u're relying on the solder to make the connection so u're bound to get a cold solder that way, and being that it's the fuel pump, I wouldn't trust them.
Not worried whatsoever. If it was a cold solder joint they would have pulled apart in my hands when I tugged them. Been soldering for 20+ years including small electronics work. Copper is soft and it will literally break and fatigue before the actual solder joint fails.
mpbiv421 great video but I do have a question . I’m thinking of doing the walbro 450 in my stock holder as well . Why must you do a relay and power it by the battery ? And do you have to drill a whole on the top of the hanger to get that connection through ?
I have not noticed any major battery drainage issues. I only drive the car on weekends really, and it actually sat the past two weeks without being driven and still started up fine. Do you have an old battery? I’m running a newer Bosch AGM battery. I would check your wide band wiring too, those can definitely drain a battery if hooked to a constant on.
@@mpbiv421 Yeah I'm thinking that's what it might be. I thought yeah the battery is 5 years old, hasn't been run in a month, so it's probably shot. So I went out two days ago and picked up a new one, and it's still draining. I'm gonna check my wideband wiring later and see if it is draining power from there. Aside from the fuel pump, that's the only other wiring that I touched. So fingers crossed, that is the issue and I just have to fuse it somewhere else.
I bought the whole fuel pump wiring upgrade as a package with the Walbro 450lph from MAPerformance. I believe it is something they throw in as part of the package. You might want to call and ask them if they can sell you just the one part. They are pretty good about taking care of customers, I've ordered odd parts from them before that aren't specifically listed on the site.
mpbiv421 great video but I do have a question . I’m thinking of doing the walbro 450 in my stock holder as well . Why must you do a relay and power it by the battery ? And do you have to drill a whole on the top of the hanger to get that connection through ?
Michael Carcamo so unfortunately the stock wiring cannot really support the amount of current the 450lph demands. So if you don’t change the wiring you won’t get the full 450lph of flow the pump is rated for, and also you may burn out the stock wiring which will force you to upgrade the wiring eventually anyways. And unfortunately to do this wiring upgrade you pretty much have to run it separately through the pump housing. If you try to run it through the stock connector you will still have a bottleneck in how much current it can handle.
mpbiv421 thank you for responding . With that being said , with this video you made witht the walbro pump correct ? If I do the same setup as you , I should be able to get the full benefits of the rated pump and I should be good and safe for awhile with the same instructions as you provided ?
Bruh what ur so confusing so you cut the blue and yellow... then u put red on the yellow and yellow for the blue. Then u tap the Blue with the yellow what? U need to explain which wire is which bruj
Maybe you missed it at the beginning of the video, but I had to lengthen two wires with different color wiring I had in my tool box to reach the pump. So in the end my Blue "Switch to Relay" wire on the relay became a yellow wire, and the Yellow "Power to Pump" wire from the relay became a red wire..... Anyways if you just follow the instructions with the hardwire kit from Deatschwerks you should be ok. See link below: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0890/6136/files/DWFPHWK_Tech_Sheet.pdf?35048
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video, just scooped up the kit from MAP, and this video is perfect!
This was very confusing to follow tbh. You connected the red and black to the little wires coming out the top of the pump, but you also hooked up red and black wires to the power on the battery and ground? Wouldnt that have been 5 wires? I’m confused…..
Very clean install and detailed how to video.The only thing i would do different is put a male and female connection where u soldered the two wires to the pump{6:21} this way if i had to remove the pump housing assembly i wouldn't have to cut the wire but merely disconnect from the male/female connector..Also y not use blue wire instead of the yellow considering it taps into the pump signal wire which is blue also. sry i am ocd when it comes to installs. i mean its even bothering me that a yellow wire turns red lmao..id want to re pin that relay pig tail and make that little portion of yellow wire red....
OCD on builds is not a bad thing! Funny thing is I actually did end up going back a week later and putting a high current connector where I had originally soldered the pump power wires.
mpbiv421 OCD can make a 1hr project turn into a whole day affair sometimes lol
Hey mate, Cheers for the vid. I'm putting a walbro 525 with DW relay kit in my EVO X, Can you confirm that black wire coming out from the pump is the one that runs behind the seats and earths next to the battery? Cheers
nice video. why a scarf joint instead of western union splice? did you do the research and arrive there? just curious.
Awesome video . But I do have a question as I’m stuck right now doing the wiring . What type of wiring are you using in the yellow roll ? Is a 12awg ? Because I went to hone depot and and they told me a southwire 12 AWg stranded would do the trick . It says on the roll 12AWG CU MTW and THWN and THHN and AWM 600 volts .
You can use 12awg they recommended if you want, it won’t cause any issues. But 14-16awg would also be fine. Since this is a signal wire to trip the relay it doesn’t need to supply a ton of amperage anymore so it doesn’t need to be a thick wire. Definitely use stranded wire.
I wired in the DW relay the car will start if we put the signal on the battery but when it’s wired in car doesn’t get any power and pump won’t prime any suggestions?
I noticed you only have one relay, is that cause you only have one pump? Think I need two relays cause I have duel pumps
Did this exactly and having an issue of not getting any power from the blue wire coming from the harness any ideas?
Hey I’m doing a hardwire install on my evo, where does the signal wire go to?
Are you using a Hobbs switch?
What’s the gauge on the additional yellow wire when you extended it ?
I don’t even remember at this point but probably 14 or 16awg
just curious as to why you installed in the back and not to the front where the fuse-able link is?
after watching it i see why haha
When you cut the blue wire and you connected the yellow line to blue , what did you do to the other blue side of the wire just closed it off and put tape on it ?
Once you cut that blue wire, only the side we connect the relay to is “hot” the other side no longer has any voltage/current on it. You can leave it loose if you want, or cover it with tape/heat shrink. It won’t matter, just preference.
@@mpbiv421 and it’s the thick blue wire correct ? Because there are a couple blue ones in there that are light blue but seem smaller
Those side by side solder connections can't be that strong.There's a reason that copper is used for wires. The wires aren't even touching which means u're relying on the solder to make the connection so u're bound to get a cold solder that way, and being that it's the fuel pump, I wouldn't trust them.
Not worried whatsoever. If it was a cold solder joint they would have pulled apart in my hands when I tugged them. Been soldering for 20+ years including small electronics work. Copper is soft and it will literally break and fatigue before the actual solder joint fails.
mpbiv421 great video but I do have a question . I’m thinking of doing the walbro 450 in my stock holder as well . Why must you do a relay and power it by the battery ? And do you have to drill a whole on the top of the hanger to get that connection through ?
After wiring everything, did you find that it was draining your battery? I’m currently having an issue after installing that and a wideband
I have not noticed any major battery drainage issues. I only drive the car on weekends really, and it actually sat the past two weeks without being driven and still started up fine. Do you have an old battery? I’m running a newer Bosch AGM battery. I would check your wide band wiring too, those can definitely drain a battery if hooked to a constant on.
@@mpbiv421 Yeah I'm thinking that's what it might be. I thought yeah the battery is 5 years old, hasn't been run in a month, so it's probably shot. So I went out two days ago and picked up a new one, and it's still draining. I'm gonna check my wideband wiring later and see if it is draining power from there. Aside from the fuel pump, that's the only other wiring that I touched. So fingers crossed, that is the issue and I just have to fuse it somewhere else.
Where did you get that grommet for the top? Or did it comes with it.
I bought the whole fuel pump wiring upgrade as a package with the Walbro 450lph from MAPerformance. I believe it is something they throw in as part of the package. You might want to call and ask them if they can sell you just the one part. They are pretty good about taking care of customers, I've ordered odd parts from them before that aren't specifically listed on the site.
mpbiv421 thank you bro
mpbiv421 great video but I do have a question . I’m thinking of doing the walbro 450 in my stock holder as well . Why must you do a relay and power it by the battery ? And do you have to drill a whole on the top of the hanger to get that connection through ?
Michael Carcamo so unfortunately the stock wiring cannot really support the amount of current the 450lph demands. So if you don’t change the wiring you won’t get the full 450lph of flow the pump is rated for, and also you may burn out the stock wiring which will force you to upgrade the wiring eventually anyways. And unfortunately to do this wiring upgrade you pretty much have to run it separately through the pump housing. If you try to run it through the stock connector you will still have a bottleneck in how much current it can handle.
mpbiv421 thank you for responding . With that being said , with this video you made witht the walbro pump correct ? If I do the same setup as you , I should be able to get the full benefits of the rated pump and I should be good and safe for awhile with the same instructions as you provided ?
Bruh what ur so confusing so you cut the blue and yellow... then u put red on the yellow and yellow for the blue. Then u tap the Blue with the yellow what? U need to explain which wire is which bruj
Maybe you missed it at the beginning of the video, but I had to lengthen two wires with different color wiring I had in my tool box to reach the pump. So in the end my Blue "Switch to Relay" wire on the relay became a yellow wire, and the Yellow "Power to Pump" wire from the relay became a red wire..... Anyways if you just follow the instructions with the hardwire kit from Deatschwerks you should be ok. See link below:
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0890/6136/files/DWFPHWK_Tech_Sheet.pdf?35048
@@mpbiv421 yeah I see I’m just getting confused on where u got the long black wire from cuz the black is the ground right
From the wires sticking out from the fuel pump. What wire is the black spliced into?