1980 Raleigh "Magnum" - Barn Find - Vintage Bicycle Restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ธ.ค. 2016
- In this video, I take a chance on a "barn find" bicycle, found on eBay, completely covered in dirt, dust and who knows what else.
Is restoration the right word? Probably not but it's in keeping with the series I'm going to try and do.
1980 Raleigh Magnum
Full strip down and clean (including hours spent cleaning the rims and spokes with tin foil and wire wool)
Clean and grease every bearing.
Replace every cable (and while doing so learn about Positron shifters)
Replace chain
Replace tyres and tubes.
Songs are by BoxCat Games: freemusicarchive.org/music/Box... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I'm amazed that no one took a hose to that thing before they decided to sell it.
A lot of people just pull something out of an old garage, photograph it and sell it without a thought.
I worked at Raleigh Nottingham and i would have installed the crank and pedals.The 80s were good times for Raleigh but sadly all gone now although we still have a depot at Eastwood Notts.
Nice bit of history there! Thanks.
I've restored plenty vintage frames and I've found that dirt and grease actually does a beautiful job of protecting the paint from dulling and fading. Nice job!
It does! I remember my Grandfather keeping his tools coated in a fine oil to keep them protected.
I had one these back in the day. Excellent bike.
Glad to hear!
Gorgeous. A Raleigh magnum was my steed growing up riding to school and uni. Takes me back
This is an entry-level Raleigh as the componentry suggests,but it is a cool time capsule of the era.This is the time of friction derailleurs and the utter frustration that some cyclists were having in trying to learn how to shift their "10 speeds".Shimano saw this problem and the "Positron" was the early effort to make the rear shifting as easy as moving the shift lever to the next indentation or index.Positron's first iteration had one wire to the derailleur and one back to the shift lever.Shimano through the years have introduced some innovations to the lower groups in an effort to gauge acceptance or practicality.This early work paid off dramatically when it was time to introduce index shifting to the peloton and then to the masses of high-end road bikers.Shimano's first Dura Ace shifters put Campagnolo's first index shifters years behind in technology and allowed Shimano to rise to the top of the high-end bicycle component manufacturers.Shimano had been seen as a company that could reproduce what the Italians were making for a better price,now it was doing the cutting edge design and engineering that the Italians could not.Combine this with the advent of the mountain bike (seen any Campy equipped?) and the die is cast.Shimano design and engineering have ruled since.So,even though you couldn't adjust the Positron,it represents a chain of design common to almost all (entry level to very high-end) bikes sold today.
I just found my old 1980s Raleigh sales brochure and the Magnum GT10 is inside. It was a tourer, with gold chromoplastic mudguards. All cabling was white, not black on this bike. Get this... it says "No more fumbling - click and it's there"!!! Also had a carrier on the rear. Seat has a suede look top, but of course a synthetic. The handlebar tape was a sort of satin shimmer look, but it has dulled down quite a bit on your barnfind.
I had one and mine had the plastic mudguards and rear carrier….the gear shifters were rubbish though
That's really cool, I found in my families old shed a 1976 viscount earospace and restored it, great bike
This bike had a recalled fork that had a tendency for catastrophic failure,any bike of this era with an aluminium fork should never be ridden.
@@larrydaniels6532 I second that motion. Fork can be changed but I would not ride one until it was. My Dad was chunnering back then about aluminium as a frame material when a mate brought his round to the house.
Great video.
I had that Shimano Positron on my Kettler Alurad "Monza" as a 6 gear.
Maybe that was in 1986, great times.
Cheers
Very cool!
Quite shocking to see how good condition it is after you cleaned all the dirt and dust of it! Not what I was expecting.
I presume the old owner must have oiled the bike up before storing it. The oil would have kept the moisture out and offered a lot of protection.
I had a Raleigh Magnum just like that. I loved that bike. Should never have sold it.
There's one on eBay at the moment in Derby... it needs a lot of work mind you!
Nice restoration, I'm looking to add a Vintage Raleigh to my collection, sweet bike
Cheers...
Great work young man.
Under all the filth is often a clean bike!!!
Or a pile of rust :(
I appreciate what you've done here. Some bikes that come my way, I decide to swap out components because I have period correct stuff to improve the bike. But other projects, I make myself keep it all original. In this case, I would have done the same as you, leave it be. It's all there. The bar ribbon being intact is a good indicator of a low mileage bike. I'm glad you left her as is. Let's be honest, not the world's most beautiful roadbike. Haha. Maybe 20 years from now, the teenage son of its next owner will get a crack at restoring it again, and he'll be thrilled to find her in original condition. And he'll get to play around with the rear mech. Haha. Nice job anyway. See ya.
"Not the most beautiful" is certainly one way of putting it! ;)
Great job of restoring to its former glory, definitely worth the £20 you paid for it. I've done the same thing with a 1985 Raleigh Maverick, thorough clean, lube, service, repaired the front brake, readjusted the stem height (previous owner had it perilously high above the 'max height' marked on there), new gum wall tyres, new grips, polished the chrome. Wasn't an expensive bike to begin with, it's heavy as a tank and the shifting is rubbish but everything works and I think it looks pretty cool.
That bike turned out great
awesome find man!
I think so. Thanks :)
Lovely bike. My brother had one in the Eighties
Great work
Cheers
The Shimano Positron system was always a difficult beast. It's like a factory set carburettor. It is incredibly difficult to get it right again once you needed to adjust things. You need to set the lever (on the handlebars) to a position just above the maximum bottom position to give you just the right amount of free play when you have the lever pushed down to the downward position . Then make sure the chain is on the lowest range (largest cog) on the rear wheel. At this point you need another person to hold the cable tension while you tighten everything up. You can do it alone but your just going to have to deal with loose play that you could otherwise eliminate if you have someone else to hold the tension, while you do everything up. The front derailleur is a doddle, as are the brake callipers. Unfortunately this system loosened up again really quickly, especially with road touring over undulating ground. It's just a quirk of the system. Other than that you could get quite a few miles of trouble free gear changing if the tension was just right. It's a lovely bike and a top quality gear and brake system. If someone wants you to change the taping up the bars, tell them to go away. It's original and that's priceless. Nice job mate :)
Ahhhhh, it's the opposite way round is it? I adjusted it like I would do every other with the rear derailleur in the highest gear. To be fair. I actually went out on it a few weekends back and the gears weren't too bad. 4/5 gears but nothing so far out that it was unrideable.
Honestly, I don't think it really matters whether you set it on the lowest or highest range in the long run. What is important however, is setting that tension just right so that you have the full range of gears at you disposal without having to really push down or up on the lever to get it to nudge over onto that lowest or highest range. I always started it in the lowest range because I wanted that lever action to reflect the tension required to get the chain from the smallest cog up to the biggest. Coming back down to the smallest cog seemed easier that way because I could use the release of tension in the chain to assist me. Applying some lubrication to the cable greatly assists gear changing. I used to use sewing machine oil but it would clog the cable tubing with dirt and defeat the purpose. There are some great lubricants available now that don't attract dust and dirt into the system. They can be used on the cogs as well. Good lubricants will make those gear changes quick, precise, and very quiet; effortless really. Hope all this makes a bit of sense lol!! I used to do this kind of thing and really enjoyed bringing neglected machinery back from the dead (so to speak). I like how you know how far to take a restoration without ruining the original features of the bike. I think what you do is great and I look forward to seeing more content like this. :)
Me gusta mucho le has echo una restauración muy buena, te ha quedado de película amigo, hay que restaurar siempre nunca reciclar. Reciclar es igual a tirar a la basura, no tires a la basura restaura, reconstruye, reutiliza, esa es la clave para un mundo mejor.
My favourite video of yours and my favourite Raleigh Bicycle
Great job
I had one of those…mine had full mudguards and a carry rack on the back from new…which was handy as I used it to get to work. The gear shifters never worked properly.
super nice find mate. 20 bucks is a nice price as well. Cheers
I agree with an earlier comment about the forks, they look like they've been bent. Nice clean up though and nice find. I'd have had to do something about truing the run out of the rear wheel though. You'll never get the brakes right without them rubbing.
WooooW Greetings friend,
from Córdoba, Veracruz, Mexico
Good work.
great job mate!!!!
I have a modern road bike, but I am planing to have a proyect like yours, buy a old steel bike a recover it.
Good job and thanks for the vídeo.
regards
Thanks Diego. There should be plenty about. Good luck!
Nice job. if it was mine though, I would've just fitted standard downtube shifters. I'd also dump the crappy centre pull brakes and get some nice long drop dual pivot ones like Alhonga. Those brake "safety" levers are downright dangerous as they reduce stopping power. Full length mudguards would be a nice touch too. If a bike has space for them, it always looks wrong to me if they're missing. Toe clips and straps would be a nice finishing touch.
Cool bike. I recently picked up a green 1974 Raleigh Super Course MK2 Carlton. It needs more work then yours but well worth it in the end.
COOL !
You need a special tool for the Positron gears. In the UK it's called the bin.
Positron would have gone from the get go had it been me. I am only vaguely aware of it and I was around when it was introduced. It didn't take so I would assume it was no good. I would have found a regular Shimano 400 if I could or tried to adapt the derailleur, pulling out the ratcheting mechanism. The regular 400 was a good derailleur.
I had a 1980 Elswick Hopper that was quite similar to the Magnum. Center pull brakes, that low end SR chainwheel, I had large flange alloy hubs and alloy rims. I think my derailleurs were Shimano 400 because I remember them and I would never have bought that aftermarket once I got serious about cycling. Didn't have those horrible bar top brake levers They don't work and if you use them and need to stop in a hurry you will find that you can't.
The one thing I would check before selling these bikes is wet braking. Bikes were awful back then. The leverage on the calipers is way off because the clearances are too big and add chrome rims into the mix and you have a nightmare. I would want to figure out the best brake blocks available now. Maybe carbon or ceramic blocks are best with chrome rims.
I'd agree. Positron definitely belongs in the bin.
Yay the positron system is very trying to work on . I have worked on several . Didn’t know I could order new cables .
They do pop up for sale but are pretty rare and expensive now.
@@MonkeyShred I find them on woman’s bikes . There cheep here and usually in good shape so I just pull the hole system off the woman’s and put it on a mans bike!
Sweet 🐮
What is the acid you mentioned to clean off the rust?
Hi
What clea er do you tend to use for cleaning parts etc...
And what's that pink grease you use??
Great video. I've just managed to aquire one of these bikes. What type of brake cable housing did you use?
For the brakes, it was probably the usual Jagwire
I've recently acquired a 1980 Carlton Cyclone and the specification is similar, bar the gears. Ditch the positron! Replace with era like derailleurs. Made at Worksop factory according to the serial number.
Is the fork straight? For me it looks like it had a collision once.
Indeed, Profile shot at 15,47 shows it
I think it's just the light but I shall check it out just to be safe!
MonkeyShred id say that's been crashed. Fork looks bent back.
Fork is bent but that doesn't matter, it can easily be straightened without a problem, the important thing is the frame is still dead straight.
I like this Video
What is the weight limit on the bike
Relentless music.
Like the energy drink or...?
You can buy the cables for the gear shifters , all you have done to the bike is fully serviced it, restoring means, having the old chroming re chromed, the frame photo graphed for the stickers, then the frame sent in to be sand blasted then powder coated prior to being sprayed, I do agree that the bike looks good for its age
Not necessarily. You could restore something in various ways. A full blown restoration, sure, rechrome parts but it wasn't needed here and if I was going to go that far, powder coating is not an option I would choose. Spraying the frame would get a much better finish and you'd be able to lock in the transfers and any lug lining or boxing you did. There are lots of different levels to "restoration".
I've also said in the second line of the description:
"Is restoration the right word? Probably not but it's in keeping with the series I'm going to try and do"
I agree totally, a lot of people like the originality (warts and all) it shows the age and condition of the original bike It's called an oily rag restoration, Knowing where to stop is the key, as long as it is fully functional that's what matters and some will pay more for that over the full-blown cosmetic makeover as it loses its character. Regards
I have the same one only with race pedals and mine wasn't stored in a barn it was stored in a room and kept clean and free of rust it was only riden once in a cuple of years the paint is still the original without a srach I even have the original tires they're not on the bike but I kept them.
How did you put the chain back on?
With a chain tool
Omg that is a cool bike I would buy that
Unfortunately nobody wanted to pay a price where I would break even so the bike is now stripped and being sold off in bits. Bit of a shame really!
These old Raleigh 10-speeds were well built but they're not particularly special bicycles. They do make great everyday machines though you will find it helps a lot if you swap out the steel wheels for aluminium alloy ones. If you want to stick with the old style freewheel clusters, I recommend the ones from IRD - Interloc Racing Design - as they have the more modern shaping of the teeth to make for much cleaner shifting.
Very true. Alloy wheels will reduce the weight a fair old bit and they'll give a much better braking performance. Especially in the wet! Wet braking on chrome is scary.
👍💖
I've worked on many Positron systems. They suck and I usually just swap for a more traditional stem shifter. Of course the rear derailleur has to be changed as well. Still period correct, just not Positron.
A set of clamp-on downtube shifters would improve shifting precision, and the bike could still be put back in stock condition if a collector wants to buy it.
It's been recently switched to a set of Huret downtube shifters and rear derailleur.
Diamond in the dirt
Where do you get these bikes from?
eBay!
MonkeyShred yeah but how?!!!!! It’s crazy, kind of gathered that you got them off eBay because you say it in pretty much every video 😂. ButI can’t seem to find any deals like this, they’re all so expensive
Ahhh well. I have a bunch of different searches set up to find different items and the amount of time I spend on eBay is... a lot. I literally just look through the ‘bicycles’ category most of the time without any search words because then you’ll find misspelled titles.
I think most of the time it’s just luck though. 😂
By any chance have you seen a Raleigh Magnum BMX from the early 80's?
I haven't!
The white cables were the original colour we used on the production line
i fully restored a late 50s to early 60' speedwell over 40 odd years ago
Con todo respeto,creo k la ensucia con fango ,por k yo eh restaurado y nunca la pintura es perfecta ,hay truco en el video,
Great channel! I get excited when I get Positron finds into the shop from my vintage bike-finder, but damn them, the play is ANNOYING. ideally they should just be replaced.
Thanks! You're right, it should be. Friction shifting is much more efficient.
Seatpost size?
Yes. No Idea.
Not a cassette it's a free hub don't confuse people .great vid and find btw 😉
@ Foxey.It happens to be a freewheel on a normal hub.Cassettes are paired with freehubs(the freewheeling mechanism is within the hub itself).
Like
Cracking find with the Raleigh....excellent youtub you have!! 🌟 "I'm restoring a 1980 Claud Butler Sierra, do you know what size the thread headset is ie, metric or imperial and if a new complete headsets are available?? Cheers 👍
It's going to be a complete guess but I'm thinking it's just a stand 1" threaded and it would be 24tpi. Plenty still available. If you measure the diameter of the stem it should be 22.2mm for a 1" threaded headset.
....thank's for your help and kind reply :)
Thanks for another great video. Hey, did you know that the Positron was originally designed as part of a system with the freewheel in the chainset? It was called Shimano FSS. That meant that the derailleur would shift to the selected gear even when you weren't pedaling. Here's a cool video about it: th-cam.com/video/x0qQLJEeN5s/w-d-xo.html That guy calls it a predecessor to the Di2
I had heard that before but I've never actually looked in to it. I'll give that video a watch. Cheers!
Some bikes you restore. Some you collect the dirt off of and pan to try and find gold.
Very true
you need a buffer...
I have one at work now
When you soaked the chrome parts, you could have at least used a table to put the parts on instead of putting them on the dirty ground, you should have sent the chrome parts off to have them re chromed, I have a 1937, Malvern star back peddle brake bike that I am going to restore.
Sam Knudsen
Australia
I'm not sure which part of the video you're referring to here. I can't see a section where I soaked chrome parts and then put them on the ground?
This is not restoraiton... You just washed up the bike... Good job btw
Let's face it it's a bit of a gas pipe special.Not really worth the effort. They are out there though. I found a Bates track bike in a skip. £90 and it's beautiful.
They're always worth the effort.
The porn music at the end lol ;D pretty fitting actually!
I have a 1972 Raleigh 10 speed in better shape.
Sounds like a gem. Does the world get to see it in all its glory?
@ hefner - I doubt it.
You doubt it? I traded a 22 ft. sailboat for it. Doubt what you want.
Given that it's a very average mass-market 10 speedfor which MonkeyShred paid next-to-nothing on ebay for, maybe you should write a book, you sound quite the businessman ;-) ............as well as a braggart!
Good work but a very ugly bike.