Thanks for the great video. I would have liked to have seen the disassembly here, seeing as Google+ isn't a thing any more. Hopefully I should be able to extrapolate how to do the disassembly from the assembly video
Machine Man Thanks mate! I actually found that most of the dust & lint accumulated on the bottom panel, around the electrical cables and in the motor. There was a thin film in the duct, but it was only a 2-3mm thick coating which was caked on due to the humidity - no real obstructions there. I even found large accumulations of dust on the heating element itself - potentially dangerous! I guess they are all slightly different depending on the manufacturer. You can see the photos of all the dust etc on my google+ page: plus.google.com/u/0/b/117543897575136933215/collection/Ezrf1 Thanks for watching :)
Thank you. Your two videos are excellent and assisted me immensely. I post this comment to thank you and offer my understanding, just in case someone else has the same issue that I experienced. My F&P dryer was purchased 2 Dec 1999, Product number 93989 and the dryer model is ED56-U. By the way the Start/Run capacitor for this dryer is 8uF. It has the older Emmerson (square) motor. Issue: The F&P dryer was throwing the RCD when it commenced to spin in the opposite direction ( a change of rotation is a feature of this dryer). A person on whirlpool (archive/1684329) reported the same issue and someone kindly advised that it was an indication of a heater element failure. In my case at least one heater element was heating OK and possibly both. Both elements, when I later measured them, had a resistance of approx 50 Ohms (expected). Unfortunately, this video did not show how to access and remove the heater elements, and the google plus photos didn't show this step either. I was trying to avoid their removal. So I looked at the spade connections to the heater elements and noted that on one heater element, a wire's insulation crossed the other wire's bare connection i.e. close or at the spades. So the only thing stopping a short was one wire's insulation. I used a cable tie to put some air between these wires and rebuilt to test before taking the next step to purchase the heater elements. It worked. So my conclusion is the insulation was allowing enough leakage either thru or along the wire to the other spade and then throw the RCD. Your videos gave me the insight to attempt this repair so I'm grateful that you went to the effort. Thank you - Five stars Along the way I also discovered: V Belt from a photo that I took has stamped Contitech (Made in England) 1800J3 460529 Once again thanks.
Humble Pie. The same dryer failed again when we installed it on the wall. Possibly the hot air wasn't being evacuated properly as the dryer's top (actually the bottom as we have it inverted) became hot. So pulled it down and it kept failing so ordered the two heating elements from F&P - Part Number 427578 for the 875watt elements . A bit over a $100 delivered. Also decided to replace the start capacitor which is an 8uF in the ED56-U . While I waited for the capacitor I purchased an eBay multimeter, a Vichy VC99 (good piece of kit for the money). When it arrived the capacitance was 6.92 well outside the 5% tolerance. The part number for the capacitor is 427502P and the Simpson 8uF part (approx $12 delivered, versus F&P $17 ) on eBay fitted. So I don't know if it was the heating elements or the capacitor that fixed it, but I think it was possibly the elements. BTW I removed the aluminium insect grate/stopper that I had made to cover the external exhaust vent and replaced it with a deflect-o SUpurr vent from Bunnings. In Part 2, I wonder what torque the bearing should be torqued to? Thanks again for the videos.
Thanks for your comments. In regard to the torque on the bearing... good question. When I'm unsure, I usually follow the 'snug + 1/2 turn' rule... depending on the application. It hasn't failed me yet.
I've got the same make of dryer as this but older. Also They say to clean the lint filter before every load but I generally clean it after every 2nd or 3rd load.
Good point. I did not cover this in the videos... It depends on how heavy the load is... We sometimes clean out the lint filter during a load, sometimes after a load and sometimes once every two loads. I believe the cleaner it is, the more efficient the drying.
Hi There. I so hope you are still around, I can not seem to find your google plus page as mentioned. I have just recently picked up precisely this dryer as we are staying unexpectedly up in Lower Daintree and have nothing with us so furnishing a place on the smell of an oil rag!! Really interested in your other posts but will stay on point for now,. I would love to see how you have taken the dryer apart. I have watched both vids because the one I picked. up for 80 dollars is making the screeching noise in only one direction. Have managed to take top and back off but can not get the knob off the dial in the front and do not want to yank it off so there must be a way of taking that whole front panel off in one. It is not the bearings as I thought it would be, it is something scratching on the other side of the drum but do not know where to begin in taking the drum out. Would love those pics and wish you had filmed the disassembly. Will watch both again tonight and then think it is just the felt runner or similar because it is not the back where the bearings are screeching after all. The belt looks good as well. Found a fiver and lots of coins plus a decades worth of fluff and crap inside so it cost me less than 75 dollars lol. Hope this finds you. Can't find a name or other contact details anywhere. Ciao for now Lindi
Another problem too is a F&P clothes dryer motor might sound really loud and then it might stop once it is heated, what is that cause. Another F&P dryer i used 2 years ago. Is it the motor, pulleys or the drum bearings??
Also is the heating element meant to heat up when it starts the cycle as we have external venting and i have cleaned the venting out but it doesnt heat up as much on the first tumble??
Really great video! I've got the identical machine and replaced capacitor and drum bearing using your direction. Thanks heaps. Unfortunately, after just completing the drum bearing repair and put machine back in place, I've done three loads and I think there is now an issue with the sensor. The first load did turn itself off, but after a really long time (maybe 2 hours?). Next I did a couple of tests 1) with no clothes at all, then 2) with a few shirts lightly damp, and the machine doesn't seem to want to turn off at all. I spent so long by myself putting the machine back up on the wall, keen to get your thoughts as to what I've likely done. Would that behaviour happen if I've just loosened one of the wires to the heat sensors? Or is it likely I've got an actual broken sensor. FYI - I'm just a home handyman, and only have standard logic to help me through things like this.
Scratch that! I decided to open it up again, and sure enough I'd knocked a wire off the element. After reattaching, the sensors are doing their job. All good!
Hi, great video, just a question in case you can help. When we go to start a load the dryer doesn't start to spin, we have to put the clothes on one side and try again sometimes multiple times until it starts to spin. No noises and once it starts to spin it goes until clothes are dry. It seems to be the wight of the clothes, but then again sometimes it won't spin even when there is not much in it. It's as if the clothes are too heavy or light for the drum to spin. Would this be a worn belt or something else? Thanks for your video.
Most probably just needs a new capacitor. Just unplug the capacitor and buy a new one. Simple fix. It can't hurt to do a quick visual inspection of your belt and other components when you go in to take the capacitor out, but I doubt the belt has anything to do with it. Just replace the capacitor and you should be fine for another few years.
Hi Good video but what have been good if you showed how to remove the drum as this seems quite difficult to do. Tried looking at your googleplus page and you seemed to have skipped this part.
Hi, Thanks for the howto video. You mentioned you replaced the felt previously. What did you used to remove the felt from the plastic surface? Did you use felt from a craft store or a F&P part? Thanks In-advance
I pulled the felt off by hand, scraped the remaining bits off with a stanley blade and wiped off the sticky residue with acetone. I used a piece of felt from a craft store and stuck it on with a continuous piece of thin double sided tape. Felt is felt - no need to use an OEM part for this :)
![How To #8.2 - Repair A Clothes Dryer [Part 2 - Repairs & Reassembly]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-MYrLMrP8E8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the great video. I would have liked to have seen the disassembly here, seeing as Google+ isn't a thing any more. Hopefully I should be able to extrapolate how to do the disassembly from the assembly video
Great video! Another thing to note is the exhaust ducts can fill up with dust and lint, they're fairly easy to remove and clean
Machine Man
Thanks mate! I actually found that most of the dust & lint accumulated on the bottom panel, around the electrical cables and in the motor. There was a thin film in the duct, but it was only a 2-3mm thick coating which was caked on due to the humidity - no real obstructions there. I even found large accumulations of dust on the heating element itself - potentially dangerous! I guess they are all slightly different depending on the manufacturer. You can see the photos of all the dust etc on my google+ page:
plus.google.com/u/0/b/117543897575136933215/collection/Ezrf1
Thanks for watching :)
Thank you. Your two videos are excellent and assisted me immensely. I post this comment to thank you and offer my understanding, just in case someone else has the same issue that I experienced. My F&P dryer was purchased 2 Dec 1999, Product number 93989 and the dryer model is ED56-U.
By the way the Start/Run capacitor for this dryer is 8uF. It has the older Emmerson (square) motor.
Issue:
The F&P dryer was throwing the RCD when it commenced to spin in the opposite direction ( a change of rotation is a feature of this dryer). A person on whirlpool (archive/1684329) reported the same issue and someone kindly advised that it was an indication of a heater element failure. In my case at least one heater element was heating OK and possibly both. Both elements, when I later measured them, had a resistance of approx 50 Ohms (expected). Unfortunately, this video did not show how to access and remove the heater elements, and the google plus photos didn't show this step either. I was trying to avoid their removal.
So I looked at the spade connections to the heater elements and noted that on one heater element, a wire's insulation crossed the other wire's bare connection i.e. close or at the spades. So the only thing stopping a short was one wire's insulation. I used a cable tie to put some air between these wires and rebuilt to test before taking the next step to purchase the heater elements.
It worked.
So my conclusion is the insulation was allowing enough leakage either thru or along the wire to the other spade and then throw the RCD.
Your videos gave me the insight to attempt this repair so I'm grateful that you went to the effort. Thank you - Five stars
Along the way I also discovered:
V Belt from a photo that I took has stamped
Contitech (Made in England) 1800J3 460529
Once again thanks.
Humble Pie. The same dryer failed again when we installed it on the wall. Possibly the hot air wasn't being evacuated properly as the dryer's top (actually the bottom as we have it inverted) became hot. So pulled it down and it kept failing so ordered the two heating elements from F&P - Part Number 427578 for the 875watt elements . A bit over a $100 delivered. Also decided to replace the start capacitor which is an 8uF in the ED56-U . While I waited for the capacitor I purchased an eBay multimeter, a Vichy VC99 (good piece of kit for the money). When it arrived the capacitance was 6.92 well outside the 5% tolerance. The part number for the capacitor is 427502P and the Simpson 8uF part (approx $12 delivered, versus F&P $17 ) on eBay fitted. So I don't know if it was the heating elements or the capacitor that fixed it, but I think it was possibly the elements.
BTW I removed the aluminium insect grate/stopper that I had made to cover the external exhaust vent and replaced it with a deflect-o SUpurr vent from Bunnings.
In Part 2, I wonder what torque the bearing should be torqued to?
Thanks again for the videos.
Thanks for your comments. In regard to the torque on the bearing... good question. When I'm unsure, I usually follow the 'snug + 1/2 turn' rule... depending on the application. It hasn't failed me yet.
Hi, may I know the part number of the diode that you replaced on the control/circuit board? Thanks
Great video but Google+ is no longer available. Do you have another option for us to look at those disassembly photos please
Hi mate i cant find my last question on here, but what would be common reasons for this dryer to trip the power off?
Thanks for the vid awesome Dean
I've got the same make of dryer as this but older. Also They say to clean the lint filter before every load but I generally clean it after every 2nd or 3rd load.
Good point. I did not cover this in the videos... It depends on how heavy the load is... We sometimes clean out the lint filter during a load, sometimes after a load and sometimes once every two loads. I believe the cleaner it is, the more efficient the drying.
Hi There. I so hope you are still around, I can not seem to find your google plus page as mentioned. I have just recently picked up precisely this dryer as we are staying unexpectedly up in Lower Daintree and have nothing with us so furnishing a place on the smell of an oil rag!! Really interested in your other posts but will stay on point for now,. I would love to see how you have taken the dryer apart. I have watched both vids because the one I picked. up for 80 dollars is making the screeching noise in only one direction. Have managed to take top and back off but can not get the knob off the dial in the front and do not want to yank it off so there must be a way of taking that whole front panel off in one. It is not the bearings as I thought it would be, it is something scratching on the other side of the drum but do not know where to begin in taking the drum out. Would love those pics and wish you had filmed the disassembly. Will watch both again tonight and then think it is just the felt runner or similar because it is not the back where the bearings are screeching after all. The belt looks good as well. Found a fiver and lots of coins plus a decades worth of fluff and crap inside so it cost me less than 75 dollars lol. Hope this finds you. Can't find a name or other contact details anywhere. Ciao for now Lindi
Another problem too is a F&P clothes dryer motor might sound really loud and then it might stop once it is heated, what is that cause. Another F&P dryer i used 2 years ago. Is it the motor, pulleys or the drum bearings??
Also is the heating element meant to heat up when it starts the cycle as we have external venting and i have cleaned the venting out but it doesnt heat up as much on the first tumble??
Hi where are the photos of dismantling the dryer??
Really great video! I've got the identical machine and replaced capacitor and drum bearing using your direction. Thanks heaps.
Unfortunately, after just completing the drum bearing repair and put machine back in place, I've done three loads and I think there is now an issue with the sensor. The first load did turn itself off, but after a really long time (maybe 2 hours?). Next I did a couple of tests 1) with no clothes at all, then 2) with a few shirts lightly damp, and the machine doesn't seem to want to turn off at all.
I spent so long by myself putting the machine back up on the wall, keen to get your thoughts as to what I've likely done. Would that behaviour happen if I've just loosened one of the wires to the heat sensors? Or is it likely I've got an actual broken sensor.
FYI - I'm just a home handyman, and only have standard logic to help me through things like this.
Scratch that! I decided to open it up again, and sure enough I'd knocked a wire off the element. After reattaching, the sensors are doing their job. All good!
+Stephen Ryan
Excellent! Glad to hear that it's all working fine.
Hi, great video, just a question in case you can help. When we go to start a load the dryer doesn't start to spin, we have to put the clothes on one side and try again sometimes multiple times until it starts to spin. No noises and once it starts to spin it goes until clothes are dry. It seems to be the wight of the clothes, but then again sometimes it won't spin even when there is not much in it. It's as if the clothes are too heavy or light for the drum to spin. Would this be a worn belt or something else? Thanks for your video.
Most probably just needs a new capacitor. Just unplug the capacitor and buy a new one. Simple fix. It can't hurt to do a quick visual inspection of your belt and other components when you go in to take the capacitor out, but I doubt the belt has anything to do with it. Just replace the capacitor and you should be fine for another few years.
Thank you, i'll check it out.
Hi Good video but what have been good if you showed how to remove the drum as this seems quite difficult to do. Tried looking at your googleplus page and you seemed to have skipped this part.
I think its the opposite of installation, just use the installation video from him on the drum.
i have the same dryer hand have the same burnt diode what do i have to buy to fix it
Desolder the diode and replace it with a new one. The part number is printed on the body of the diode.
sorry its a zener diode no part number other than d5 which is location on the board.
Hi, Thanks for the howto video. You mentioned you replaced the felt previously. What did you used to remove the felt from the plastic surface? Did you use felt from a craft store or a F&P part? Thanks In-advance
I pulled the felt off by hand, scraped the remaining bits off with a stanley blade and wiped off the sticky residue with acetone. I used a piece of felt from a craft store and stuck it on with a continuous piece of thin double sided tape. Felt is felt - no need to use an OEM part for this :)
My aunt has this dryer