Removing rust in 5 minutes without sandblasting and metal treating bare metal before primer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ย. 2020
- Detailed video on the process of rust removal and treatment. Step by step instructions on removing rust, prepping the bare metal, difference of epoxy primer vs 2k primer and the different characteristics of each one. 1972 k5 blazer update
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Yep, the DP LF Epoxy Sealer IS some of the BEST metal protection "sealer", I've noticed since I was introduced to it in Vo-Tech in 1990. It WAS REALLY amazing stuff throughout the whole 1990s until the millennium 2000 hit and, they removed the lead (hence DP LF -lead free) from it 😔. It's NOW, only a fraction of what it used to be but? I get it...(health wise). And yeah, I was trained on PPG and IF possible? It was ALL I would use for the 1st decade plus. However? The PRICES for PPG products HAVE made me go to other less expensive products/outlets AND actual SANDING sealers (when sometimes needed for different situations 😏). Anyways... Good video and, subscribed! ROCK the funk ON!!! 🤘🔥🤘
Great info! That will be useful for my project! Thanks for sharing!
I used to use deoxadidine 50 years ago as a apprentice paint sprayer and it's still the best .We used wash etch primer which was transparent .We then used cellulose primer .3 coats ,a coat of cellulose gloss black and another 3 coats of cellulose primer and a guide coat .
The gloss black was to stop the wet flatting soaking to the bare metal .
when we blocked wet flatter we stopped at the gloss black .
Fifty years ago it was all wet flatting .of primer .
I guess I'm super lucky I have cats I'm bare metal for months no surface rust . When I possibly get rust I use these product. Incredible products
Love'n the channel
Thanks for watching the videos.
What if you wanted to keep the metal look without painting it a color? Can you just apply clear coats over the clean and conditioned surface? Or does clear coat REQUIRE a primer to bond on?
I was told by the paint rep that if you sand the metal, the clear will stick to the bare metal but it may not hold up long term because bare metal needs a epoxy or etch primer over it to help ,'bite,' into the metal. So, yes you can do it but not sure if it'll last months or years. A good test would be to take a small bare metal part, sand it with at least 120 grit but 80 grit would be better. Then clear it, let it dry in the sun for a week, then take a pressure washer to it and see if it blows off easily or not. Keep in mind, if you metal treat the panel, it will turn a blue/ goldish color if you plan on clearing it. Hope this helps
How long can you leave a panel bare metal after treating it with the cleaner/conditioner and other steps. Do I have to use primer right away?
Hey, thanks for watching the video. It's generally a good idea to epoxy primer the bare metal right after metal cleaner/conditioner just to eliminate variables, like a contaminated from the shop getting on the panel and soaking into the metal. With that being said, once it is treated, it buys you more time to primer it without it surface rusting so no more than 8 hours after in my opinion but I have seen guys leave it for a couple weeks and didn't have any problems.
What would you recommend for areas on the car body (like the trunk) and small areas that can’t be removed and isolated when doing this? If the final step is to hose off with water wouldn’t the water start surface rust somewhere else?
Hey, I would do the same steps that I put in this video. As long as all the bare metal has been treated with the metal conditioner and cleaner and you should blow dry it as best as you can, it should be protected from rusting and then you can epoxy primer the area. As far as the chemicals going into the cracks on the car if you can remove the parts, just make sure that area is rinsed good and no chemicals are being left behind and then blow dry it as quick as possible after you treat it and you should be fine. This process should neutralize all the bare metal spits and even help in the cracks that you would never be able to get to, kinda similar to acid dipping vs just sandblasting. Acid dipping gets in ever crack, fold, where sandblasting only get on the area shown. Hopefully this helps you out. Any other questions, just hit me up
@@moderntooclassicautodesign8676 thank you. Do you ever use rust encapsulator? Any success?
No I haven't used that. I haven't heard anything bad about it. Another product you can look at too is rust mort. It's a 1 step process that works really good
Is that one choice brand pretty good? What if I use just the conditioner without the cleaner?
Hi, thanks for watching. Yeah, one choice is just a different division of ppg so they're very good products. I'm not sure on that question because I have always used both products, but in theory, if your bare metal part didn't have rust and you just wanted to protect it, maybe just using the condition would help better than using nothing at all. To be on the safe side though, I would just use both products to get the best results.
@@moderntooclassicautodesign8676 yea I actually ended up just buying both. Thanks so much for your video and your help
Btw, one thing you forgot to mention is that the cleaner (purple) is 1:2 ratio and the green is just straight up.
I tried 3 times to read the brand and part number of the metal prep 1 & 2 conditioner. Can’t do it. Don’t have a laptop or big screen TV. Hope you can throw some info my way! DK, retired.
Hey, thanks for wat thing the metal cleaner is by ppg but under the brand name one choice sx579 metal cleaner. The conditioner is one choice sx520 both ppg products in the one choice lineup. Hopefully that helps
@@moderntooclassicautodesign8676 Thanks for the reply and info. I didn’t even know it was a PPG Product. I can tell from the video, eyes got old somehow! Darn good info as a tech, fixing instead of painting, I have to catch up as chemicals change so quick! Goes on my list of “Have” & “Need”. I found planning ahead is better than wanting yesterday! lol.
Didn’t have cell since 2008, son sent one last April a year ago. No so smart and led me to TH-cam to learn it to. Wow, times is moving fast. I truly appreciate it! Have a safe 4th for you and you friends and family. After 38+ years of wrenching, it is part of my religion to have 10 fingers & don’t set myself on fire.
You made a very fine informative video and thanks to for the work behind the camera with editing, sound, title, downloading, as it takes work & time as well. We can’t buy time as my wife of 40+ years saw time disappear! What? Where? Where did it go? Snap of a finger. I have a 67 C10 for me, do it once, do it write, it will be here long after I leave! Your video will last forever. Enjoy some time with family!
And THANKS!
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
What do you think if rust Mort??? And what's the proposed way to use it?
Hey, rust mort is a great product too. You prepare the surface by sanding all the loose rust off, then you apply the rust mort on and leave it for about 10 minutes if I'm remember correctly. The most important part is to keep the surface wet with the rust mort, if it dries out it's not as effective. You'll see the rust turn black, which means the rust mort did its job and converted it back to metal and neutralized it. After about 5 minutes, I like to take a red scotch brite or a aggressive brillo pad and hand sand the area while applying a little more rust mort, then after 10 mins you use water to clean off the panel. Drying it off with air line feels like it's better than just letting it air dry. Hope this helps you out.
Where do you get those chemicals
Hi, thanks for watching the videos. Here in Az I get them through Tasco paint supplies but you should be able to get them from any aumotive paint supplier that sells ppg products
You can epoxy and do a light sand on it to do body work
He is using two different epoxies, both from PPG. The first one seals the metal chemically like a plastic wrap to keep moisture off metal. The 2nd, from the “Vibrance” provided a thicker film build. If you did hammer & dolly on areas, do it before cleaning with the phosphoric, scuff & neutralize. The Vibrance product is a high build and if outside the window of full cure, then light sanding is needed prior to filler. If fresh, flashed off and time to cure had past, lightly tack & compressed air blow clean. Mix the filler and apply. An exothermic reaction in the filler creates heat. Depending on humidity, weather conditions, this causes moisture to form under it. This where epoxy saves the day. Use a pencil (Never use a sharpie) but apply a quality filler to start your build layer and tapper the edges to aid in your feathering. Once blocked, sanded and darn close or perfect, a quick spray of the first epoxy seals the bondo filler to keep moisture out of the filler. Just spray enough to cover the area and slightly larger as 1” or 2”. Filler chemically cures, high build epoxy chemically cures and the direct to metal epoxy chemically cures together but create a water tight repair. It is protective layering, but it all comes down to the product and service data sheets for time, film thickness, open window and what to do if the window of cure time has long passed.
This is a “Belt” and “Suspenders” approach to make repairs, wet sanding, working the high build into laser straight panels that will have no under-rust and excellent shine for 50 years, especially if garaged to keep “UV” A, B, C of the color & clear. Epoxy is our best friend if the substrate is cleaned, wire wheel, scuffed but chemically clean. No you have a bare metal surface to block moisture from ever getting to it, a chemical tooth & mechanical tooth to hold anything on top. Discover a high spot during a guide coat sand, hammer off dolly to shrink into itself. Dolly in the middle, hammer gently outside the high in circles and slowly close in on it. If bare metal is showing, sand and scruff, but spray two coats of epoxy sealer #1. No moisture. Spray two coats of Vibrance, let cure, since it is high build (expensive) but work it. If not enough film build, use your polyester high build and add 3 coats just to cover repair. Not the entire panel. Work smarter, not harder. As with most tools, let the tool do the work. Write it down, take photos, make notes. We don’t have to run down to the photomatt any longer and wait 3 days! Print black & white, write info in photo, place in plastic page protector and 3 ring notebook for this repair or part of car.
Sorry to be long, but you want the paint & shine to outlast you!
Hope this helps!!!
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
Wouldn't it be 98 grams bondo to 2 grams hardner to achieve 2%?
Thank you for the video!! Great content
Hey, thanks for checking out the video. That wouldn't work, because for every 100 grams you have to put 2 grams as the measurement. You're not trying to have it equal 100, you're just trying to have a more consistent mix. So pour the whole 100, then zero the scale, then pour the whole 2. Make sense? It gets a little confusing. So for 200 grams you'd mix 4 grams, 400 grams you'd mix 8 grams..etc to keep it simple, whatever number you pour, multiply it by .02 and that's your mix. Hopefully this helps
Pool acid cleans surface rust pretty good,...😎✌🇺🇸🍺🍕
Time to step up to Tamco products. I'll put them up to the outrageously priced PPG products any day.
Guaranteed..