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@@og190 i actually did that at first and found out that the front of the door is narrower than the rear so by flipping the doors and having 2 rears butt up to each other, it made a very weird body line with almost a peak coming out if you looked down the truck body line. Old suburban do have a little peak of you ever get a chance to see one and look down the body line, but by having 2 rears back to back it magnified the body line even more. So I changed the doors back to how they are now. In my next video, im going to go over all that. Great question though. I appreciate you watching the video

@@dilloncarson5468 i want to try and keep the orginal pillar adjustments as stock as possible. With bolting from the inside of the cab, I think there would be so many more adjustments as far as having the hinge land on the door and still have a good gap for the weatherstriping to sit on. It would definitely make life easier to have the bolts on the inside but for me it's about what challenges I'm comfortable with and keeping as many points on the truck as stock as possible without opening up a huge can of worms. Once I get this cab done, I want to take a step back and see if there's a better way on the next one I build and moving the bolts would be ideal. Thanks for the feedback

That was my question as well. Looks cool though!

Are you going to use two more window frames to square off the rear glass?

@xozindustries7451 yes, I have a couple scrap doors that I plan on using the windows frames out of. I'll do a stationary window in the rear of the suicide doors, kinda like a vent window then have a bigger glass cut for the main window in the suicide doors. I'm hoping to go over all that in another video, maybe 3 weeks ftom now

@@basic.linework yes, I typically put the new floor on the frame first, then build up from there I put the shell back on it before I weld so it holds everything in it's right spot.

@@battleaxefabandmachine i thought about that but then I'd have to redesign the floor for the seat, seatbelts then the lower cab which welds to the specific part of the rear floor. It's a great idea for sure and depends on what challenges you want.

@@ronaldschultz1189 that's awesome! Thanks for watching the video. Love those c50 trucks

@@markdeanda8626 Thanks for watching the video. Its super hard to give a estimate because you never know what you're going to find. What i do is charger $70 per hour and update every day with pictures supporting the progress. Typical restoration with some sheetmetal work, all bodywork and paint can be anywhere from 300 hours to 500 hours. Materials can be $8k-12k for epoxy primer, sealer, basecoat and clear, parts can be pretty expensive depending on what you want. Dakota digital gauges $2k vintage a/c $2k, 5.3 engine with 6 speed tranny $6k or 6.2 with tranny for $8500....it goes on and on depending on what level you want the vehicle to be

@ I’m in need of the welding work, cutting out parts that r gone fenders, supporting structural part under tub, tub floor and such.

@markdeanda8626 no problem, I can do as much as you want me to. I have several clients that only want me to do the structural sheetmetal replacement then they finish up the build themselves.

@ , yes I’m thinking this is more what I need, what’s the first step?

@markdeanda8626 I'm in Phoenix, so you'll have to ship me the vehicle. Then it'll take me a month or 2 to get it worked in. I have a really good broker for shipping cars allover. Once I get the vehicle, I can put together a list of all the parts with my vendor who is here in Phoenix. You can pay him directly. I'm not sure about giving my number on here, but google my business modern Too Classic Auto Designs in Phoenix and you can call me if you'd like to move forward

@@markdeanda8626 Thank you. I'm in Phoenix Az

@ me and my brother just picked up the same truck and the body after 25 years has rusted to hell

@ we are seriously thinking about getting a new body from Dina corn in California making a drive out there

@markdeanda8626 that's awesome. There's a company here in Az that builds them too, I think it's premier street rod out of Lake Havasu. Keep in mind, the body will be all new but it's still aftermarket parts. They're close on gaps and fitting but will most likely need fine tuning. Feel free to hit me up with any questions along the way on here or Instagram too @pauliaquinta happy to help

@ wow I’d rather go to Arizona , I’ll check em out,

@@forged_billions2 on this one, I used the factory oil pan because there were no clearance issues being that it's a 4x4 and didn't interfere with any of the suspension.

@@Goinbig I agree, the more I looked at it with the suburban doors, I thought I'd rather have full size rear doors too and actually made the change in my second video. I also made the rear doors into suicide openings.

@@CamdenLee-g6t Hey, thanks for watching the video. I have a video just about ready that goes over most of the steps for installing the new floor. I'll try and get it out later today. If you're doing the front floor, it doesn't come with the rocker boxes and outter rocker panels so you'll have to weld those in separately. At the end of the rocker box is the end cap and inner reinforcement that's bolted to the rear floor and front floor so those will be pretty easy to take off but the rocker box and rocker get welded to the new floor. If you have any other questions hit me up and I'll finish up that video later today, hopefully that helps out for you

@@rickla4308 hey, thanks for watching the video. I built this blazer, sold it at the Barrett Jackson a couple years ago. The tires are 35x12.5x18

@@steeldrivercustoms6920 yes, you sometimes have to cut all that to fit. I actually have a update on another blazer I'm doing, and I go over that very sane problem and show where I had to cut everything. I should upload that video layer this week

@moderntooclassicautodesign8676 Thank you for the feedback!!! Following

@@danielfiske9849 thanks for watching. I'm hoping to get back on it in the next couple months. Tough to find time for my personal projects with all my client and Barrett jackson builds. This is definitely my favorite build so it's killing me not to work on it at the moment

@@danielfiske9849 I'm just on the tail end of finishing a 1969 charger restoration. After that I'm going all in on this build and finishing it. So hopefully I'll be back on it in January. Coil over front suspension, duramax/allison drive train, 2 tone with the body mouldings exterior and a crazy interior. It's killing me to look at this truck in my shop right now haha

@@Kinknowsmore hey, thanks for watching the video. A typically restoration basically starts at around 300 hours, I charge $70 a hour. That's taking the vehicle apart, sandblasting it to bare metal, primer, bodywork, gapping out all the panels back on the vehicle, then painting and reassemble. Paint and all the materials can cost anywhere from $5k-$12k. So many variables go into it so no build is exactly the same. For example, you can buy a gallon clear coat much cheaper for around $100 but it doesn't have the Uv protection from the sum and will break down and fail eventually. The clear I use from ppg is $700 a gallon so you can do a restoration cheaper but at what cost is the question. Hopefully this helps you out

No shit

@@TRIPPYYYHITZZ yea no shit

@@joshuakasprowicz5148 😂🤧

@@joshuakasprowicz5148 pretty pointless comment

@@gladememmott3001 yes, I use rust mort on smaller innerstucture panels that I can get sandblasted. It's a very good product that I keep in my shop

@@louiz18938 Hey, this took me about a day to build and another day and a half for prep and paint. I charge $70 a hour plus materials. So around $1400 labor give or take a couple hours for a ballpark

@@richardlinden4015 I used the orginal B-Pillar from this suburban cab. Same would go for a normal regular cab if you wanted to convert that. You would just take the rear cab skin off the reinforce the B-Pillar where the striker plate is and set your hinges there. You can buy a new A-Pillar for like $300 and that would have the hinge bolt holes in it. I went with a suicide so my hinges are in the very back

Hey, I get most of my parts from classic industries or Raybuck auto parts. Both have a pretty good inventory of parts.