Yep, that has happened to me too. I park at a lot of trailheads to go biking or hiking. When I get back, I like to change out of my sweaty clothes and I open both doors on one side of the rig as a sort of changing curtain so I don't flash people my naked body. It works pretty good and I've been doing it for years. Some guys just wrap a towel around their waste but I always found that makes it much harder to get undressed and dressed.
@plasticauto @timmythetoolman where can I buy the kit for Toyota T100/first gen Tacoma/ 3rd gen 4Runner? The links in the video description don’t work anymore. Thanks!
Thanks Tony. We don't want anyone to get lost while following one of our tutorials so that's why we are so thorough. People actually complain about this saying our videos are too long but that never deters us from cranking out very detailed videos. We gear our videos to the absolute beginner and not just your more experienced DIY mechanics or professional mechanics so this way everyone can succeed. I tell the complainers every time there's such a thing called fast forwarding and jumping around. They don't have to watch the whole video if they don't want to. Find the area of the video you need more clarification on, watch it and get back to the job. It's pretty simple. Thanks for the comment. Happy Wrenching!
No complainin here! Ive worked on the abrams and bigger stuff so i can turn a wrench. But if ove never done a thing, lets say timing belt, it sure is nice to have every possible angle covered so I know exactly what im gettin into. Keep it up! The haters gonna hate no matter what. They can piss up a rope! I'll even show em how lol! (Its easy)
As always, internet TH-cams GOLD. You're the Bob Ross of 3rd Gen repairs. Thorough instructions, calm delivery, quality results. I too suffer the shame of a flacid door checker. Every time I turn my back on it, the door gets me in the back side! Your busted plastic where the clip hangs onto the door panel reminded me of something I stumbled on to. Search up; 'plastic welding using baking soda and super glue'. Those guys seem to be making some strong plastic repairs that last. Oh yeah.....clean that grimy door handle. For shame Timmy! What if your Sweetie saw that filth?
Haha. Thanks for the compliment! We appreciate when our viewers comment, helps remind us why we do this! Some of those life hacks really do work, I’m a little skeptical on this plastic repair you speak of. There are some pretty good plastic glues out there too that would work.
I can vouch for superglue and baking soda trick. It’s not for every plastic repair but when used correctly it’s fixed lots of stuff for years for me. Been doing it since at least the early 90’s. Just be careful with Cinnamon and superglue.
I have a 2000 4Runner Limited and your videos are extremely helpful. I have done so much to my 4Runner (suspension, CV axles, tie rods, etc) and it's been made monumentally easier with your content. Thank you and keep it up!
Hey Jacob, it's great to hear you have found our videos helpful. We appreciate you taking the time to comment and let us know. We will of course keep on keeping on making videos. Happy Wrenching!
Wow, I literally replaced my door check on my tacoma a few weeks ago. I couldn't use this kit because the hinge part of the check was totally worn out from me never lubricating it. I lube all my door checks every few months now which is recommended in the maintenance manual. Good to know these kits exist. Thanks Tim
Curious to know how much that door check assembly cost you.. Did you get it from the dealer or online? Can you share the part number you purchased and i'm assuming you did the drivers side door? Also, what are you using to lubricate the door checkers?
@@TimmyTheToolman I got it for $80 plus all the plastic black covers was another $20 at wholesale from dealer. From all the pics I've seen the 1st gen Tacoma and 3rd gen 4runner door check parts are identical. However, all the part numbers are different as usual. The tacoma p/n is 68620-04010 and the 4runner p/n is 68620-35010 for the driver's side. Service manual says to use white lithium grease for all door components. I also use the wd-40 white lithium spray for all hinges and grease on the lock and the check.
Thank you , Timmay! I ordered this right after watching when it first came out. Took a couple of weeks to arrive...not bad, but man, what a difference! Guys, you don't realize how bad it is, or what you're missing until it's fixed! My biggest gripe was the wind! The wind ripping the door open when you're still hanging onto the release inside and it's slamming open or into somebody's car...yeah, this does not happen anymore. It is so easy, too. You'll thank yourself...and "Mother Russia!!" And Toyota Tim, too!
You're welcome Phillip. It's a very satisfying and easy repair as you have found out. The only way Mother Russia could improve on this is if they sent a bottle of Russian vodka with every kit.
Yeah, the wind nearly took out my door in the car park with a car next to me. I caught it before it slammed into the parked car, that's why I stumbled on this clip. Need to do this repair
@TimmyTheToolman I'm so glad you both have such a wholesome friendship. I found it hilarious. Thanks for your video btw just got done fixing my door stoppers then!
@@Bitplex Yeah, we're good friends. I'll be visiting him in Georgia at the end of the month. Good job fixing your door checker. By the way, where did you get the parts? Did you use the ones from our Amazon link? Our Russian supplier hasn't been able to sell in the U.S. for years because of the war.
I just keep watching, your a funny man Timmy! Owning these Toyota’s is like a brotherhood! People just want to help and share there education with yah! I trust the Japan engineers , from auto engineering and the people that respect Toyota ownership and maintenance that’s required. Thank you again for the time you spend teaching others. You given the gift of teaching with patient’s!
Hey Jeremy, glad you appreciate my sense of humor. I agree, there is a pretty cool brotherhood and even sisterhood with these Toyotas. Sean and I definitely like giving back to the Toyota SUV / Truck Community by making these videos. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Just (another) shout-out to Timmy. The door checker in my '97 was fine, except the side that attaches to the fender was loose. It would "clunk" open every time I opened the door. I didn't look too closely at the mechanism, and I expected a PITA getting access to the very back of the fender, or having to go in behind the kick-panel wiring. Thanks to Timmy I see that black plastic is just a cover, not a complete assembly. Popped it off, tightened the previously hidden bolt, popped the cover back on and DONE!
Mate! Thank you so much. I don't have the same vehicle as you but I just wanted to understand how door checks work. It was so useful that you took it apart and explained how it worked. Thank you very much. You are a great teacher. Subscribed.
It's a really satisfying repair to do. I just have to re-learn that I can't just fling the door open with ease anymore. I've actually accidentally rammed my shoulder into the doo because I forgot that there's more resistance now.
The constant spring pressure may or may not bend the plate which was drilled out, if that were not the case Toyota would not have spot welded the plates, I think,? You did do a great job and simplified everything, I was a wrench for most of my 80 years. Thanks and well done
It's my belief the reason for the spot welds is just so the internal parts of the door checker mechanism (plastic and rubber blocks) can't simply fall out of the mechanism when they are shipped to and stored at Toyota Dealerships across the nation. The spot welds don't serve a purpose once the mechanism is affixed inside the door with the nuts.
I could see that working for a short time but I imagine the RTV will eventually wear off since it's not as durable as a hard plastic. But yeah, that's some good Macgyvering.
Door clips can be had at Napa, some Nissan ones are interchangeable- great showing us how to fix this problem on every Tacoma/ 4R. Maybe missed it, just leave the metal pieces separated after drilling?
Yeah, I forgot to mention that there's no need to try to reattach the two metal pieces together. Once the assembly is reattached to the door, the nuts tightened down on the assembly studs hold the two halves together. The spot welding of the two halves must be so the fixators and rubber blocks can't simply fall out of the mechanism when the door checkers are shipped and stored. Thanks for the tips on the door clips.
Hey Todd, glad you like the video. I just clicked on the link we provide in the video description and I'm not seeing what you're seeing. I was able to put a door checker repair kit into my Ebay shopping cart and it said nothing about not being available. I suggest you check again and use the link we provide.
I've found your attention to detail, along with video that's on point with your instructions, very professional and helpful. I've utilized your channel in the past and subscribed today due to the fact you weren't installing a new door check and calling it repair. I'll check your videos first on any upcoming garage days. Great job!
Timmy the Tool Man, I look at you like you are a Super Man, a God send to me. You have helped me so much with my 1998 SR 5 4 runner with 325k. I really love how you are so detailed with the instructions and how you hold the camera where you can see everything to make it so simple to do the repairs. I have been fighting those door checks for two years and many shin bruises. I am ordering the door check repair kit. Thank you so much. PS. If you know where I can get a bottom drivers seat cover I have several rips in it and would like to replace the bottom cover. All the rest of the fabric is like new. May the Lord Bless You.
Hey Michael, it's great to hear that our videos have helped you work on your rig. It's also nice to know you appreciate the detail our videos offer. The detail we offer is what I think sets us apart from most DIY Automotive videos on TH-cam. We want people to be successful using our videos so we don't cut corners. You'll like the result of doing this repair for sure. I'm not sure about the seat cover. An auto upholstery shop might be an option but maybe check your local PickNPull wrecking yards and maybe you could grab a non-ripped seat bottom off a rig that has the same color interior.
Sean found these for sale on Ebay. Check it out: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FFront-Left-Right-Bottom-Leather-Seat-Replacement-Tan-Fit-96-02-Toyota-4Runner-%2F333776656487%3F_trksid%3Dp2349624.m46890.l49292&campid=5338641100&toolid=10001&customid=
Another great video! Hopefully one day you’ll make one explaining how to get the seat belts to retract. I can’t be the only person with that problem. My 4RUNNER and Tacoma both have that problem.
I think those seat belt retractors just get a bit tired and don't work as well over time. I don't know if you could repair the retractors. I'm guess you would just have to replace them. Glad you like the video.
I did this repair from Mother Russia awhile back on my 99 Lexus ES300 driver door. I'm 100% sure I did it correctly, and it made the door extremely hard to open and close. I guess I could have tried taking material off or something. I ended up buying a new aftermarket door check on E-bay for Toyota Camrys for like $20 and it works perfect now, but the plastic cover for the screw/bolt doesn't match up to the Camry part apparently (so I left it off, and saved it)
My doors definitely require more force to open but I wouldn't characterize it as extremely hard. It just takes a bit more force which is understandable because now the door no longer can close all on it's own. I wonder if you somehow got the wrong stoppers from them. Obviously something wasn't right though because the repair worked out great for me and also for my buddy Jordan.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm thinking since the repair kit showed their product applying to a ton of different models, that some of them won't fit as well. I could be wrong.
@@nikovandh Well, I think they must make different fixators too. It can't be a one size fits all, at least that's what I think. A lot of vehicles probably use the same fixators so there's a lot of crossover but some of them must use different shaped fixatore. That's a bummer the repair didn't work for you though.
Hiii I was done in my car. But I was make owne checker from HDPE at my home Using material 775 dc 12v motor. Baby vice Connecting holder. Carbide tools. Thanks for sharing I want to share pic with you sir. But how
Thank you Timmy the toolman for another great video! I did this today and it was easy with your guidance! Mine also broke the clip where you broke yours cannot help if that’s the weakest spot for those clips!
Splayed Studs! To anyone whose reading in frustration, I'm doing this right now. My studs were splayed and I couldn't get the mechanism out without ruining the threading. I took a rubber mallet and gently tapped the studs from the top and bottom to make them even again and was able to pull the mechanism out. Now I just need to find that lost nut...
@@TimmyTheToolman Ah yeah I've got some speakers ready but I've not yet picked a headunit So many things to buy but I'm getting ready to move in December. Bahh
Finally got this mod completed, and my shins and other body parts are very thankful. A couple of thoughts (for what it's worth). I'm thinking you could skip the hole drilling out process and just go straight to the hammering/separating at 17:25. When I did the drilling, it actually merged the gray and gold pieces together more - to the point that when I got the drill bit through the crevasse, I was then only able to knock free the surrounding parts outside of where the hole was drilled (I had to hammer the heck out of my chisel piece to separate that drilled hole/merged part). Also, my graphite "spread" was completely solid when I opened that bottle up, so I just threw some grease around the "valley" and called it good. I needed to replace my driver door speaker as well, so I was able to kill two birds with one stone on this one. Sometimes, it's the small things like this that make it even more pleasant to drive these "old" rigs. Thanks for making it easier for us to do these mods, Timmy!
Yeah, Sean told me you wanted to do this job. I already had some sets on the way from Mother Russia when he mentioned it to me. It takes around a month to get them.
Those red door clips on my corolla have been indestructible lol all other cars non Toyota mostly white ones and terrible but the red ones definitely are seemingly of higher quality than most 😅 great video thanks
Hi Timmy, I'm a year to late to the show. Terrific channel! Well said, articulated, well lit and no mumbling under your breath! I had this problem w/ my Rogue from the start and now can't get the part due to the horrible Ukraine war! God bless and take care from California.
Hey Eliot, glad you like our channel. There are some kits available on Amazon and Ebay from other sellers. We link one of them in the video description.
As always, great video. Unfortunately, repair kit is no longer available on eBay or Amazon. I’m gonna take mine out and slide in a shim. We’ll see how that works.
Any idea if this will work on a 95 series landcruiser prado? Don't wanna go the route of buying whole new door check assemblies. Great video as always!
Click on the product link in the video description and you'll be brought to the Ebay seller's page. They make these for a lot of vehicles so hopefully they make them for your rig as well.
hmmm, looks like a speaker swap is in order...haha. re: those pushbutton clips...I just throw those pos out and put in rivnuts and big black screws and washers....kinda looks military industrial complexy. Especially the ones that broke. All metal now. Man I don't know what I'd do w/o Tim's videos. Great vid.
Great video Timmy! I was hoping to do this repair for my 2000 Toyota 4Runner. Unfortunately it was not available on their EBay site. I guess because of the Russian- Ukrainian war!
The war broke out right before i was going to do this so been searching for a solution ever since. Turns out the tacoma uses nadically same door check. TRQ sells thos on Amazon for $30 a piece. I accidentally bought two lefts, just installed the passenger side upside down, worked perfectly
Thanks for the video, I have a 2000 Tundra and the metal actually broke out is there anyway to fix that ? I got the whole assembly out of the door as the metal was torn wide enough for the assembly to come out of the door.
@@TimmyTheToolman The metal of the door failed and the door checker mechanism ripped out so the entire mechanism cam out of door still with metal between bolts.
No need to remove handle, just loosen from door and rotate door card 90 so it will clear.. Drill straight through both pieces. Much quicker. Careful separating metal pieces as hammer blows will deform metal. My lube arrived as a solid block so went bareback.
Rotating the whole door panel is an option. Sean likes that method. We were trying to save as much of the metal of the mechanism as possible by drilling only as much as we needed to. Is it a big deal, probably not.
Thanks for the great video. I tried this repair on my LS430. The 10mm bolt that attaches the check strap to the hinge pilar is just spinning. Feels like the nut inside the hinge pilar is spinning with it. Any suggestions?
@@TimmyTheToolman The bolt that is spinning is the one that attaches the check strap to the hinge pilar, not the door. I don't know if there is an access hole to the interior of the hinge pilar. I may have to remove the glove box and panel in the footwell to find out.
Thank you for your video, it inspired me to fix this annoying problem. Found a manufacturer from Turkey called Barrer Automotive. My comments get deleted so trying without the URL.
Possibly already addressed in comments: at 15:57 you state use a "5/16 inch" bit in the progression which equals 20/64 inch, but the next step is "13/64 inch". I am not great with fractions but when I selected my 5/16 inch bit it was clearly too large.
We might have misspoke and meant to say “3/16” - but essentially the size of the drill bit is relative. Step up your drill bits until you drill out the spot weld. It can be a little over or undersized. Key here is to drill out the welds while removing as little material as possible. - Sean
30 min epoxy mixer with fiberglass will restore the thickness of the plastic pieces and they will be stronger than the original. also, lubricate the check straps to keep wear down. Many people dont know this.
I bought a new door check for my 95 Toyota Hiace, the new one came without the studs. I managed to eventually get the studs unwelded from the plate with a blow torch. Although they're a bit bent the go into the threads holes ok but not sure whether they will spin around when I try and tighten them up. Guess i'll find out tomorow, not sure If I can get anything to hold them from the inside to stpp them spinning as it's really tight inside the door. Any suggestions if they do spin? They are T headed bolts. Thanks for your video. Thanks.
They were welded onto the old door check, but I got them off the old by unwelding them. So obviously not meant to spin when the studs are on them, but how are they fixed when no studs are on them?
@chrisbailey5633 If you have no friends or family that own a welder, bring it to a muffler shop, and I bet they would do a couple tack welds for you for like $10. - Tim
@@TimmyTheToolman Thinking to just to use some new bolts with nuts and lock washers. Don't know why Toyota have to make something simple so complicated and difficult to replace. What should have been a straightforward swap has turned into a big job requiring a lot of thought and cost to adequately resolve. The lip where they put threads into the door check mounting holes doesn't help either.
Got it all back on but the door wouldn't close. Clearly the arm is not right as not the same length as the original. Back to the drawing board, I were to detach the arm from the old and slide it into the new would bit's spring out or would it stay put?
So the gold and silver coloured metal pieces are not secured to one another after inserting new pads? Didn't Yota spot weld them for a reason? Maybe a dab JB metal weld compound in the drilled out corners?
I wish I would have mentioned this in the video but there's no need to rejoin the two halves of the door checker mechanism with a couple spot welds or maybe JB Weld. I think it was spot welded together by Toyota just so the internal plastic stoppers (fixators) and rubber blocks can't fall out of the door checker mechanism when they are stored and/or shipped. When you install the door checker back in the door and secure it with the two nuts, that holds the two halves together.
That wouldn't work. You would have to slide the door panel off the top of the door first before you could slide it forward and you can't pick the panel off the top with the clip still attaching the panel to the door. Your best bet is just getting a good plastic glue and plan on fixing it if it happens.
Wow. My man gets all professional looking with his “official” Toyota hat and shop shirt, but he’s wearing either pajama bottoms or some very funny looking golf pants. I guess comfort is comfort, but that’s a little too comfortable.
Dude, you're funny. Who cares how I dress? Was the information imparted in the video good? I'm not out to impress anyone with how I look, but rather, I want to impress them with the information we share. I shouldn't of even bothered to respond to such a ridiculous comment.
For anyone wondering you can’t but the ones in the link anymore when I check the other day but if you look up the brand on Amazon you can find them just make sure it says “type 1” it’s for 3rd gens I think type 2 is for 4+gen
Timmy thanks for the video! The one thing I hated about our '04 Highlander since we bought it a couple of months ago was that the doors didn't stay open. But now they do! Well except the front passenger door... cause I think I might have broken the bolt that connects the stopper to the frame; it won't come out. Any suggestions? No problems with the other 3 (no broken clips!) after I figured out the differences between your 4runner and the Highlander. Thanks again!!
@@TimmyTheToolman Nope still won't come out. If I wedge something behind it will get tight for perhaps 1/8 of a turn, like it's catching, then gets loose again and just turns w/o backing out; after a turn or so it gets tight again but loosens. The bolt will also move left and right depending on how far open the door is.
Could you get in there with a reciprocating saw with a steel blade or Dremel with a metal cutting disk to cut the bolt or stud out? If you can, that's what I would do. Then you can simply replace the bolt with a new one and you'll be good to go.
is graphite recommended over lithium? my door check is making clicking noises while driving and seems to have some play in it when I open the door all the way. tacoma with 14,000 miles and it's the access cab door i hardly ever use so i can't believe it's worn out.
I thought about doing videos working on bicycles but decided against it. There's actually a lot of good channels out there for working on bicycles. Who knows, maybe I will one day though. But yeah, I do all my own bicycle maintenance and building. I've turned lots of wrenches on bicycles over the last 35 years.
Second time mine broke on my drivers side Tacoma 2013. I believe Mine broke twice form leaning on the door with one arm while using nh other arm to safely put my overweight shuitzu down on the ground.
I have a 2014 Toyota Sienna with the passenger side front door check making that popping sound. Toyota wants $200 bucks for a new part. I found an after market one online for much cheaper. When I went to install the new door check, the rod doesn't side in and out of the block that mounts to the inside of the door. I put the old one back in for now. My question is, should the arm of the door check be able to slide in and out through the block part of the assembly? I can't get mine to move. Either I'm doing something wrong or I have a faulty door check. Hope you can help me out with this mystery. Thanks.
You likely won’t be able to get it to move by hand, you’ll need the weight of the door to help with its movement. So because it’s new, it’s probably super stiff until it breaks in over many door closing cycles. Comparing the new plastic part to the old one, does it look like it’s a similar shape considering the wear on the old one?
@@TimmyTheToolman I believe it’s close but I’ll have to take the panel off again to know for sure. Thanks for the info. I’ll check it out and let you know how it goes. Have a great weekend.
I have a 2006 tacoma access cab 4x4 trd off road. the door checker is hitting and making my window bracket. it is bending that window bracket . when you close the door. any suggestions fixing the wholes that holes for the door checker? I have bent it backend it looks like the use car lot that I bought it from, did some work to make it work. do I need to take it to a body shop to pound it straight and weld a piece of metal to make it stronger? so I don't run into the same problem. thanks,
If you don't think it will work bending it back into shape, maybe it's time to buy a new one. I know OEM parts can be expensive, but it might be worth it to avoid future headaches. And who knows, maybe there's a more affordable aftermarket option you can purchase.
Do the holes play a big part on the door check from hitting the window bracket? My friend that helped me also a retired Toyota technician (15 years) helped me bend the hole where the damaged from over extending over the years. It worked for one day then it started again. Couldn’t close door without bending my new window bracket. This time we took the door panel off. And watched the door open and close. After a couple of doing that. He noticed the door checker starting to hit the bracket and not turning in a angle. He said it looked like it was having some friction when it should turn away from the window bracket. Going back to Toyota or look for aftermarket door checker. Hope it works
Don't remember. Just eyeball the size of the weld and match that with the drill bit size. It's not an exact science. If you're worried about removing more material than you need, start smaller and work your way up until you can break the weld.
Thanks again for another helpful video Timmy. Happen to have a vid on replacing driver and front passenger seatbelts? Mine won’t retract anymore. 99TR4
Hey Marc, we do not have a video for replacing the seat belts but maybe we will make one. There's been a few people who have asked about fixing non-retracting seat belts.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for considering. I took apart my interior a year or so ago and messed with the seat belts. I couldn’t figure out how to disassemble and got scared I would break it if I tried too hard. I gave up and now just have to be careful not to slam my door on the seatbelt. Same thing on the passenger side. It gets kinda embarrassing to tell my passengers to be careful though 😬. Wish I could hire u as my personal mechanic. Watching ur vids has made my restoration easier. I’ve also shared ur channel with my other 4R friends.
@@marcsmartinez01 Have you done any searching online for any write-ups or videos for fixing seat belts on Toyotas? Great to hear our videos are helping you out and thanks for suggesting our channel to your friends. We appreciate it!
@@TimmyTheToolman Had not searched other sources since you’re my “go to”. Really no rush since it more of an inconvenience rather than a necessity such as replacing LBJs. (This was the first advice u gave me when I started the restore). I’m building my Instagram as we speak. Only have 3 pics with more to come. marc99t4r
@@TimmyTheToolman yes it has, thanks for the response. Kinda tired of the door closing on me when working on stuff. Let us know if you find another source for the part
Did not spot weld it back, what's the chances the two metal piece separated with the Russian parts falling out? Harbor Freight has spot weld drill bit for couple of dollars last checked. Plastic welding should provide permanent fix for the broken door part. Now I gotta fix my door checks.
You don't need to spot weld them back together. When you bolt it back into the door, the halves are held together. I think they are spot welded to just keep the parts from falling out when they are shipped and stocked by different parts suppliers.
Well, usually as the door stoppers wear, they get easy to open, not harder. It's definitely possible the stopper is the culprit. Maybe it would benefit from some lubrication. Maybe spray some silicone spray onto the door stopper rod and see if that helps.
@@TimmyTheToolman just wanted to follow up. I sprayed down the hinges and the stopper and it must have been bone dry because after I sprayed it passenger doors shut effortlessly. Thanks for the tip
One of the best feelings in the world. Parking your car and letting your leg hang out and have your door slam right on your shin
Yep, that has happened to me too. I park at a lot of trailheads to go biking or hiking. When I get back, I like to change out of my sweaty clothes and I open both doors on one side of the rig as a sort of changing curtain so I don't flash people my naked body. It works pretty good and I've been doing it for years. Some guys just wrap a towel around their waste but I always found that makes it much harder to get undressed and dressed.
Every time!
Yep everytime
😂
Thank you for ordering and reviewing the door check repair kit!😊
You're very welcome. You make a good product and we were happy to make a video showcasing it.
@plasticauto @timmythetoolman where can I buy the kit for Toyota T100/first gen Tacoma/ 3rd gen 4Runner?
The links in the video description don’t work anymore.
Thanks!
I swear dude... You are so damn thorough its like takin a class
Thanks Tony. We don't want anyone to get lost while following one of our tutorials so that's why we are so thorough. People actually complain about this saying our videos are too long but that never deters us from cranking out very detailed videos. We gear our videos to the absolute beginner and not just your more experienced DIY mechanics or professional mechanics so this way everyone can succeed. I tell the complainers every time there's such a thing called fast forwarding and jumping around. They don't have to watch the whole video if they don't want to. Find the area of the video you need more clarification on, watch it and get back to the job. It's pretty simple. Thanks for the comment. Happy Wrenching!
No complainin here! Ive worked on the abrams and bigger stuff so i can turn a wrench. But if ove never done a thing, lets say timing belt, it sure is nice to have every possible angle covered so I know exactly what im gettin into. Keep it up! The haters gonna hate no matter what. They can piss up a rope! I'll even show em how lol! (Its easy)
@@tonyrowe1455 Thanks for supporting our channel and our style of making DIY videos. We appreciate it!
As always, internet TH-cams GOLD. You're the Bob Ross of 3rd Gen repairs. Thorough instructions, calm delivery, quality results. I too suffer the shame of a flacid door checker. Every time I turn my back on it, the door gets me in the back side!
Your busted plastic where the clip hangs onto the door panel reminded me of something I stumbled on to. Search up; 'plastic welding using baking soda and super glue'. Those guys seem to be making some strong plastic repairs that last. Oh yeah.....clean that grimy door handle. For shame Timmy! What if your Sweetie saw that filth?
Haha. Thanks for the compliment! We appreciate when our viewers comment, helps remind us why we do this! Some of those life hacks really do work, I’m a little skeptical on this plastic repair you speak of. There are some pretty good plastic glues out there too that would work.
I can vouch for superglue and baking soda trick. It’s not for every plastic repair but when used correctly it’s fixed lots of stuff for years for me. Been doing it since at least the early 90’s. Just be careful with Cinnamon and superglue.
I have a 2000 4Runner Limited and your videos are extremely helpful. I have done so much to my 4Runner (suspension, CV axles, tie rods, etc) and it's been made monumentally easier with your content. Thank you and keep it up!
Hey Jacob, it's great to hear you have found our videos helpful. We appreciate you taking the time to comment and let us know. We will of course keep on keeping on making videos. Happy Wrenching!
Wow, I literally replaced my door check on my tacoma a few weeks ago. I couldn't use this kit because the hinge part of the check was totally worn out from me never lubricating it. I lube all my door checks every few months now which is recommended in the maintenance manual. Good to know these kits exist. Thanks Tim
Curious to know how much that door check assembly cost you.. Did you get it from the dealer or online? Can you share the part number you purchased and i'm assuming you did the drivers side door? Also, what are you using to lubricate the door checkers?
@@TimmyTheToolman I got it for $80 plus all the plastic black covers was another $20 at wholesale from dealer. From all the pics I've seen the 1st gen Tacoma and 3rd gen 4runner door check parts are identical. However, all the part numbers are different as usual. The tacoma p/n is 68620-04010 and the 4runner p/n is 68620-35010 for the driver's side. Service manual says to use white lithium grease for all door components. I also use the wd-40 white lithium spray for all hinges and grease on the lock and the check.
did you use graphite lube?
Thank you , Timmay! I ordered this right after watching when it first came out. Took a couple of weeks to arrive...not bad, but man, what a difference! Guys, you don't realize how bad it is, or what you're missing until it's fixed! My biggest gripe was the wind! The wind ripping the door open when you're still hanging onto the release inside and it's slamming open or into somebody's car...yeah, this does not happen anymore. It is so easy, too. You'll thank yourself...and "Mother Russia!!" And Toyota Tim, too!
You're welcome Phillip. It's a very satisfying and easy repair as you have found out. The only way Mother Russia could improve on this is if they sent a bottle of Russian vodka with every kit.
Yeah, the wind nearly took out my door in the car park with a car next to me. I caught it before it slammed into the parked car, that's why I stumbled on this clip. Need to do this repair
I followed Timmy’s video and fixed this today.
It’s going to be nice to have properly working doors.
Good job Mark.
No clue this clue this could be fixed, thank god!! Right on Timmy
Well, now you know. This is one of the cool things about the internet - sharing knowledge.
@@TimmyTheToolman Knowledge dose no good unless passed on!
Some say that poor buddy Jordan is still getting over his 0.2 seconds in the spotlight 😅
@@Bitplex Jordan is a star on and off the camera. He doesn't need air time to feel important. He's one of the best people I know.
@TimmyTheToolman I'm so glad you both have such a wholesome friendship. I found it hilarious. Thanks for your video btw just got done fixing my door stoppers then!
@@Bitplex Yeah, we're good friends. I'll be visiting him in Georgia at the end of the month. Good job fixing your door checker. By the way, where did you get the parts? Did you use the ones from our Amazon link? Our Russian supplier hasn't been able to sell in the U.S. for years because of the war.
Thanks Tim! I just ordered a set to try on my 2002 Sequoia. Great instructions on your video.
You're welcome Ricky. Glad you like the video and good luck with the job.
I just keep watching, your a funny man Timmy! Owning these Toyota’s is like a brotherhood! People just want to help and share there education with yah! I trust the Japan engineers , from auto engineering and the people that respect Toyota ownership and maintenance that’s required. Thank you again for the time you spend teaching others. You given the gift of teaching with patient’s!
Hey Jeremy, glad you appreciate my sense of humor. I agree, there is a pretty cool brotherhood and even sisterhood with these Toyotas. Sean and I definitely like giving back to the Toyota SUV / Truck Community by making these videos. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Damn door checks wouldn’t need repaired if the Toyotas didn’t last so damn long.😉
Great instructional. Great explanations and great camera work. I hope I said "Great"!! Super appreciated. Thank you.!!
@JohnJones-fh2uy I appreciate the "great" compliment, John. You're very welcome!
Just (another) shout-out to Timmy. The door checker in my '97 was fine, except the side that attaches to the fender was loose. It would "clunk" open every time I opened the door. I didn't look too closely at the mechanism, and I expected a PITA getting access to the very back of the fender, or having to go in behind the kick-panel wiring. Thanks to Timmy I see that black plastic is just a cover, not a complete assembly. Popped it off, tightened the previously hidden bolt, popped the cover back on and DONE!
Glad our video helped you fix your door checker. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciated it. Happy Wrenching!
Mate! Thank you so much. I don't have the same vehicle as you but I just wanted to understand how door checks work. It was so useful that you took it apart and explained how it worked. Thank you very much. You are a great teacher. Subscribed.
You're very welcome and thanks for the compliment. Welcome to our channel.
Excellent timing, I need to replace/repair both of my front limit straps.
Good luck with the job.
Well done Timmy! I've seen Jordan's write-up and this is high on our list now. Thanks for stepping through it with another excellent video!
It's a really satisfying repair to do. I just have to re-learn that I can't just fling the door open with ease anymore. I've actually accidentally rammed my shoulder into the doo because I forgot that there's more resistance now.
Wow, so comprehensive. Well done.
Thanks for the compliment, Nelson. We appreciate it!
The fact that these mechs are even still available for 20yo+ vehicles is a testament to how great Toyota is.
True. Great quality came out of the 80/90’s
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for all you do. I'm at 3 3rd gens and want more.
The constant spring pressure may or may not bend the plate which was drilled out, if that were not the case Toyota would not have spot welded the plates, I think,? You did do a great job and simplified everything, I was a wrench for most of my 80 years. Thanks and well done
It's my belief the reason for the spot welds is just so the internal parts of the door checker mechanism (plastic and rubber blocks) can't simply fall out of the mechanism when they are shipped to and stored at Toyota Dealerships across the nation. The spot welds don't serve a purpose once the mechanism is affixed inside the door with the nuts.
Exactly what I needed. Thank you so much from Chile.
You're very welcome my Chilean Brother.
I just applied some RTV on the plastic rod without removing anything and opened and closed the door couple of times and let it dry. It works!
I could see that working for a short time but I imagine the RTV will eventually wear off since it's not as durable as a hard plastic. But yeah, that's some good Macgyvering.
Door clips can be had at Napa, some Nissan ones are interchangeable- great showing us how to fix this problem on every Tacoma/ 4R.
Maybe missed it, just leave the metal pieces separated after drilling?
Yeah, I forgot to mention that there's no need to try to reattach the two metal pieces together. Once the assembly is reattached to the door, the nuts tightened down on the assembly studs hold the two halves together. The spot welding of the two halves must be so the fixators and rubber blocks can't simply fall out of the mechanism when the door checkers are shipped and stored. Thanks for the tips on the door clips.
Thanks Timmy and Jordan for the good information.
You're very welcome.
Excellent video my friend🙏🏾 thank you very much, I just got the confidence to do this repair myself.
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Where did you get the kit?
Thanks again for a fantastic video, just learning how to take the door panel off is half the battle. eBay is saying it’s out of stock.
Hey Todd, glad you like the video. I just clicked on the link we provide in the video description and I'm not seeing what you're seeing. I was able to put a door checker repair kit into my Ebay shopping cart and it said nothing about not being available. I suggest you check again and use the link we provide.
Never occurred to me to fix this. The dang door always closing on me. Now I know!! Thanks!
Yeah, it never occurred to me either until my buddy Jordan told me about it. You're very welcome.
I've found your attention to detail, along with video that's on point with your instructions, very professional and helpful. I've utilized your channel in the past and subscribed today due to the fact you weren't installing a new door check and calling it repair. I'll check your videos first on any upcoming garage days. Great job!
Thanks for the kind words Mark. We appreciate it. Thanks for subscribing to our channel.
Timmy the Tool Man, I look at you like you are a Super Man, a God send to me. You have helped me so much with my 1998 SR 5 4 runner with 325k. I really love how you are so detailed with the instructions and how you hold the camera where you can see everything to make it so simple to do the repairs. I have been fighting those door checks for two years and many shin bruises. I am ordering the door check repair kit. Thank you so much. PS. If you know where I can get a bottom drivers seat cover I have several rips in it and would like to replace the bottom cover. All the rest of the fabric is like new. May the Lord Bless You.
Hey Michael, it's great to hear that our videos have helped you work on your rig. It's also nice to know you appreciate the detail our videos offer. The detail we offer is what I think sets us apart from most DIY Automotive videos on TH-cam. We want people to be successful using our videos so we don't cut corners. You'll like the result of doing this repair for sure. I'm not sure about the seat cover. An auto upholstery shop might be an option but maybe check your local PickNPull wrecking yards and maybe you could grab a non-ripped seat bottom off a rig that has the same color interior.
Sean found these for sale on Ebay. Check it out: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FFront-Left-Right-Bottom-Leather-Seat-Replacement-Tan-Fit-96-02-Toyota-4Runner-%2F333776656487%3F_trksid%3Dp2349624.m46890.l49292&campid=5338641100&toolid=10001&customid=
Another great video! Hopefully one day you’ll make one explaining how to get the seat belts to retract. I can’t be the only person with that problem. My 4RUNNER and Tacoma both have that problem.
I think those seat belt retractors just get a bit tired and don't work as well over time. I don't know if you could repair the retractors. I'm guess you would just have to replace them. Glad you like the video.
@@TimmyTheToolman I had good luck with silicone spray on lazy belts on a VW....
@@daveh5635 Good to know.
Great video, thanks.
The bracket in my door broke off so there is nothing to bolt the door check to in the door. Any suggestions? Thanks.
I appreciate the German spec “GUDDENTITE” bit
Good to hear you like our very specific Torque Value technique.
I did this repair from Mother Russia awhile back on my 99 Lexus ES300 driver door. I'm 100% sure I did it correctly, and it made the door extremely hard to open and close. I guess I could have tried taking material off or something. I ended up buying a new aftermarket door check on E-bay for Toyota Camrys for like $20 and it works perfect now, but the plastic cover for the screw/bolt doesn't match up to the Camry part apparently (so I left it off, and saved it)
My doors definitely require more force to open but I wouldn't characterize it as extremely hard. It just takes a bit more force which is understandable because now the door no longer can close all on it's own. I wonder if you somehow got the wrong stoppers from them. Obviously something wasn't right though because the repair worked out great for me and also for my buddy Jordan.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm thinking since the repair kit showed their product applying to a ton of different models, that some of them won't fit as well. I could be wrong.
@@nikovandh Well, I think they must make different fixators too. It can't be a one size fits all, at least that's what I think. A lot of vehicles probably use the same fixators so there's a lot of crossover but some of them must use different shaped fixatore. That's a bummer the repair didn't work for you though.
Thank you man, really helpful instructions
You're very welcome.
Hi.
I'm from India I have Toyota Etios.
I was facing same problem.
Thanks for making video and shearing ideas how to repair
Thanks 👍👌
Our pleasure. We're here to help. Hope the repair goes smooth for you. Happy Wrenching!
Hiii
I was done in my car.
But I was make owne checker from HDPE at my home
Using material
775 dc 12v motor.
Baby vice
Connecting holder.
Carbide tools.
Thanks for sharing
I want to share pic with you sir.
But how
Thank you Timmy the toolman for another great video! I did this today and it was easy with your guidance! Mine also broke the clip where you broke yours cannot help if that’s the weakest spot for those clips!
You're welcome George and thanks for the compliment. Good to hear our video helped you out.
Splayed Studs! To anyone whose reading in frustration, I'm doing this right now. My studs were splayed and I couldn't get the mechanism out without ruining the threading. I took a rubber mallet and gently tapped the studs from the top and bottom to make them even again and was able to pull the mechanism out.
Now I just need to find that lost nut...
Sorry to hear you're having a tough time with the job. You'll get it.
@@TimmyTheToolman they're working better than ever. Thanks again Tim!
@@Czotie Good to hear. Nice job getting it done.
Oh my god dude this is genius! I’ve been waiting for this for so long🙇 Thanks Timmy👊
You're welcome Carter. Good luck with the repair.
Goodness me. I guess I better wait till I'm ready to do my speaker swap since you have to remove the speakers anyway.
Thanks for the video Tim!
Might be a good time to do that too! You’re welcome dude!
@@TimmyTheToolman Ah yeah I've got some speakers ready but I've not yet picked a headunit
So many things to buy but I'm getting ready to move in December. Bahh
@@locklear308 Good luck with the move and planned automotive work.
Finally got this mod completed, and my shins and other body parts are very thankful. A couple of thoughts (for what it's worth). I'm thinking you could skip the hole drilling out process and just go straight to the hammering/separating at 17:25. When I did the drilling, it actually merged the gray and gold pieces together more - to the point that when I got the drill bit through the crevasse, I was then only able to knock free the surrounding parts outside of where the hole was drilled (I had to hammer the heck out of my chisel piece to separate that drilled hole/merged part). Also, my graphite "spread" was completely solid when I opened that bottle up, so I just threw some grease around the "valley" and called it good. I needed to replace my driver door speaker as well, so I was able to kill two birds with one stone on this one. Sometimes, it's the small things like this that make it even more pleasant to drive these "old" rigs. Thanks for making it easier for us to do these mods, Timmy!
Goo job getting done and sharing your experience with us.
Sweet door mods! Just ordered a set!
Yeah, Sean told me you wanted to do this job. I already had some sets on the way from Mother Russia when he mentioned it to me. It takes around a month to get them.
Those red door clips on my corolla have been indestructible lol all other cars non Toyota mostly white ones and terrible but the red ones definitely are seemingly of higher quality than most 😅 great video thanks
Ok, Red good, White bad. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Timmy, I'm a year to late to the show. Terrific channel! Well said, articulated, well lit and no mumbling under your breath! I had this problem w/ my Rogue from the start and now can't get the part due to the horrible Ukraine war! God bless and take care from California.
Hey Eliot, glad you like our channel. There are some kits available on Amazon and Ebay from other sellers. We link one of them in the video description.
@@TimmyTheToolman I did look but wasn't convinced they were right so I'll just keep looking thank you
@@elliotazus6258 Oakie Doakie. Good luck with the search.
As always, great video. Unfortunately, repair kit is no longer available on eBay or Amazon. I’m gonna take mine out and slide in a shim. We’ll see how that works.
It's too bad we can't get these kits right now. The damn Ukraine war has screwed everything up.
It so helpful thanks Timmy.
Good to hear you found our video helpful.
Any idea if this will work on a 95 series landcruiser prado? Don't wanna go the route of buying whole new door check assemblies.
Great video as always!
Click on the product link in the video description and you'll be brought to the Ebay seller's page. They make these for a lot of vehicles so hopefully they make them for your rig as well.
Thanks man! Tired of the door hitting me in the ass. Looking next for a video on seatbelt retraction re-tensionsioning, if that is even possible.
You're welcome Chris. There's videos out there for fixing the seat belt retractor. Some find that just cleaning the belt helps a lot.
hmmm, looks like a speaker swap is in order...haha. re: those pushbutton clips...I just throw those pos out and put in rivnuts and big black screws and washers....kinda looks military industrial complexy. Especially the ones that broke. All metal now. Man I don't know what I'd do w/o Tim's videos. Great vid.
The industrial look might be in my future. Thanks for the suggestion. Glad you like the video
Very well done.
Thanks Mike!
Great video Timmy! I was hoping to do this repair for my 2000 Toyota 4Runner. Unfortunately it was not available on their EBay site. I guess because of the Russian- Ukrainian war!
Glad you like the video Luis. That's a bummer you can't get them right now.
I am looking for the repair kit did you ever find them
The war broke out right before i was going to do this so been searching for a solution ever since. Turns out the tacoma uses nadically same door check. TRQ sells thos on Amazon for $30 a piece. I accidentally bought two lefts, just installed the passenger side upside down, worked perfectly
Do you have a link to share?
Awesome door Mods and repairs
Yes indeed. Sic Door Repai!
Thanks for the video, I have a 2000 Tundra and the metal actually broke out is there anyway to fix that ? I got the whole assembly out of the door as the metal was torn wide enough for the assembly to come out of the door.
@@hunter923 Are you saying the metal of the door failed and the door checker mechanism ripped out? Or, did the metal of the mechanism fail?
@@TimmyTheToolman The metal of the door failed and the door checker mechanism ripped out so the entire mechanism cam out of door still with metal between bolts.
@@hunter923 I would take it to a good welder/fabricator and let him weld in a new piece of metal for you.
Great Video. Thanks Mate
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Thank you Timmy. see ya have good day, and Happy July 4th.
You're welcome and you have a nice 4th of July as well.
Very helpful
Thank you
You're welcome.
No need to remove handle, just loosen from door and rotate door card 90 so it will clear.. Drill straight through both pieces. Much quicker. Careful separating metal pieces as hammer blows will deform metal. My lube arrived as a solid block so went bareback.
Rotating the whole door panel is an option. Sean likes that method. We were trying to save as much of the metal of the mechanism as possible by drilling only as much as we needed to. Is it a big deal, probably not.
Thanks for the great video. I tried this repair on my LS430. The 10mm bolt that attaches the check strap to the hinge pilar is just spinning. Feels like the nut inside the hinge pilar is spinning with it. Any suggestions?
Can you get anything inside the door to hold the nut?
@@TimmyTheToolman The bolt that is spinning is the one that attaches the check strap to the hinge pilar, not the door. I don't know if there is an access hole to the interior of the hinge pilar. I may have to remove the glove box and panel in the footwell to find out.
Thanks for the great video. There's no way I'm spending $80+ each for Tundra door checks. I will be doing this soon.
You're welcome Doug. Good luck with the repair.
Thank you for your video, it inspired me to fix this annoying problem. Found a manufacturer from Turkey called Barrer Automotive. My comments get deleted so trying without the URL.
Google censors my posts. Try a google search for "barrer automotive".
Email me the link, please. mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
@@TimmyTheToolman Email sent 🙂
Instead of ‘Good enough for Government work’ I say ‘good enough for the boys I date!’
🤣
Thanks for the video.
I don't date boys, so I don't know if I can borrow that saying from you.
Possibly already addressed in comments: at 15:57 you state use a "5/16 inch" bit in the progression which equals 20/64 inch, but the next step is "13/64 inch". I am not great with fractions but when I selected my 5/16 inch bit it was clearly too large.
We might have misspoke and meant to say “3/16” - but essentially the size of the drill bit is relative. Step up your drill bits until you drill out the spot weld. It can be a little over or undersized. Key here is to drill out the welds while removing as little material as possible.
- Sean
Very nice easy repair
Thanks Antonio.
30 min epoxy mixer with fiberglass will restore the thickness of the plastic pieces and they will be stronger than the original. also, lubricate the check straps to keep wear down. Many people dont know this.
Thanks for the tips. The door checker repair kit comes with a graphite type of lube for the strap.
Thanks for the info Timmy ordered me a kit all my doors are bad on my 2000 4runner
You're welcome Antonio. It takes a while to get the kit from Mother Russia but it's worth the wait.
@@TimmyTheToolman ain't got no problem waiting for something that works brother
Really thank you so much
You're very welcome.
Thanks Tim
You're welcome.
Very very clear....
Glad you think so!
I bought a new door check for my 95 Toyota Hiace, the new one came without the studs. I managed to eventually get the studs unwelded from the plate with a blow torch. Although they're a bit bent the go into the threads holes ok but not sure whether they will spin around when I try and tighten them up.
Guess i'll find out tomorow, not sure If I can get anything to hold them from the inside to stpp them spinning as it's really tight inside the door. Any suggestions if they do spin? They are T headed bolts.
Thanks for your video.
Thanks.
They should spin, they are suppose to be spot welded in place. So unless the weld broke, I don’t think you’ll have a problem.
- Sean
They were welded onto the old door check, but I got them off the old by unwelding them. So obviously not meant to spin when the studs are on them, but how are they fixed when no studs are on them?
@chrisbailey5633 If you have no friends or family that own a welder, bring it to a muffler shop, and I bet they would do a couple tack welds for you for like $10. - Tim
@@TimmyTheToolman Thinking to just to use some new bolts with nuts and lock washers. Don't know why Toyota have to make something simple so complicated and difficult to replace. What should have been a straightforward swap has turned into a big job requiring a lot of thought and cost to adequately resolve. The lip where they put threads into the door check mounting holes doesn't help either.
Got it all back on but the door wouldn't close. Clearly the arm is not right as not the same length as the original. Back to the drawing board, I were to detach the arm from the old and slide it into the new would bit's spring out or would it stay put?
So the gold and silver coloured metal pieces are not secured to one another after inserting new pads? Didn't Yota spot weld them for a reason? Maybe a dab JB metal weld compound in the drilled out corners?
I wish I would have mentioned this in the video but there's no need to rejoin the two halves of the door checker mechanism with a couple spot welds or maybe JB Weld. I think it was spot welded together by Toyota just so the internal plastic stoppers (fixators) and rubber blocks can't fall out of the door checker mechanism when they are stored and/or shipped. When you install the door checker back in the door and secure it with the two nuts, that holds the two halves together.
11:00 same thing happened to BOTH doors on my vehicle! Same brown/black Sport interior
Looks like might be able to slide panel forward to avoid this. Could lift the panel to clear the push lock then push forward maybe? Thoughts?
@@pjbenn901 I couldn't tell you personally, it occurred during the previous ownership
That wouldn't work. You would have to slide the door panel off the top of the door first before you could slide it forward and you can't pick the panel off the top with the clip still attaching the panel to the door. Your best bet is just getting a good plastic glue and plan on fixing it if it happens.
I cannot find dry graphite other than powder form. The graphite did not come in the kit off eBay. Where can you get it?
Just use some silicone grease, that's what I did when I realized the graphite I had was dried up.
Thank you Timmy!!!!
You're welcome Brian!!!!
Hi Timmy ,can you show the link to buy this kit !!! Best Regards from Costa Rica
Toyota 4RUNNER Door Check Repair Kit (4 doors) Strap Stopper Replace
www.ebay.com/itm/293549669929?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338641100&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Thank you.
You're welcome!
New sub, Great vid
Thanks for subscribing Ricardo. Glad you like the video.
Wow. My man gets all professional looking with his “official” Toyota hat and shop shirt, but he’s wearing either pajama bottoms or some very funny looking golf pants. I guess comfort is comfort, but that’s a little too comfortable.
Dude, you're funny. Who cares how I dress? Was the information imparted in the video good? I'm not out to impress anyone with how I look, but rather, I want to impress them with the information we share. I shouldn't of even bothered to respond to such a ridiculous comment.
For anyone wondering you can’t but the ones in the link anymore when I check the other day but if you look up the brand on Amazon you can find them just make sure it says “type 1” it’s for 3rd gens I think type 2 is for 4+gen
Thanks for sharing this Sam. Do you have a link to share by chance?
@@TimmyTheToolman yes of course this is the one I used
@@sammurray4555 No link Sam.
@@TimmyTheToolman I’ve tried posting the link 3 times now and TH-cam keeps taking down my comment I’m not sure why
@@TimmyTheToolman I just sent you the link on Instagram
Timmy thanks for the video! The one thing I hated about our '04 Highlander since we bought it a couple of months ago was that the doors didn't stay open. But now they do! Well except the front passenger door... cause I think I might have broken the bolt that connects the stopper to the frame; it won't come out. Any suggestions? No problems with the other 3 (no broken clips!) after I figured out the differences between your 4runner and the Highlander. Thanks again!!
Is the bolt stripped and won't back out?
@@TimmyTheToolman Could be, it won't tighten or loosen.
@@delightunderstanding If you can get something wedged under the head of the bolt applying pressure and then try to back it out, that might work.
@@TimmyTheToolman Nope still won't come out. If I wedge something behind it will get tight for perhaps 1/8 of a turn, like it's catching, then gets loose again and just turns w/o backing out; after a turn or so it gets tight again but loosens. The bolt will also move left and right depending on how far open the door is.
Could you get in there with a reciprocating saw with a steel blade or Dremel with a metal cutting disk to cut the bolt or stud out? If you can, that's what I would do. Then you can simply replace the bolt with a new one and you'll be good to go.
Hi
Will the amazon link kit fit land cruiser 90 prado 2001?
Thanks
I am not sure. There's a good chance since it's the same era.
is graphite recommended over lithium? my door check is making clicking noises while driving and seems to have some play in it when I open the door all the way. tacoma with 14,000 miles and it's the access cab door i hardly ever use so i can't believe it's worn out.
Not sure graphite and lithium are compatible. Sounds like it's not just a lubrication issue.
I have just found this after installing the same kit From ebay on my Nissan Murano
hope the job went smoothly for you!
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah I did require the shims, its pretty easy fix.
Hey Timmy why aren't you doing any vintage Schwinn videos? You got all those bikes in that garage let's see some of them.
I thought about doing videos working on bicycles but decided against it. There's actually a lot of good channels out there for working on bicycles. Who knows, maybe I will one day though. But yeah, I do all my own bicycle maintenance and building. I've turned lots of wrenches on bicycles over the last 35 years.
Second time mine broke on my drivers side Tacoma 2013. I believe Mine broke twice form leaning on the door with one arm while using nh other arm to safely put my overweight shuitzu down on the ground.
That's some heavy leaning.
Even the Amazon one is unavailable
Wars have consequences.
I have a 2014 Toyota Sienna with the passenger side front door check making that popping sound. Toyota wants $200 bucks for a new part. I found an after market one online for much cheaper. When I went to install the new door check, the rod doesn't side in and out of the block that mounts to the inside of the door. I put the old one back in for now. My question is, should the arm of the door check be able to slide in and out through the block part of the assembly? I can't get mine to move. Either I'm doing something wrong or I have a faulty door check. Hope you can help me out with this mystery. Thanks.
You likely won’t be able to get it to move by hand, you’ll need the weight of the door to help with its movement. So because it’s new, it’s probably super stiff until it breaks in over many door closing cycles. Comparing the new plastic part to the old one, does it look like it’s a similar shape considering the wear on the old one?
@@TimmyTheToolman I believe it’s close but I’ll have to take the panel off again to know for sure. Thanks for the info. I’ll check it out and let you know how it goes. Have a great weekend.
I have a 2006 tacoma access cab 4x4 trd off road. the door checker is hitting and making my window bracket. it is bending that window bracket . when you close the door. any suggestions fixing the wholes that holes for the door checker? I have bent it backend it looks like the use car lot that I bought it from, did some work to make it work. do I need to take it to a body shop to pound it straight and weld a piece of metal to make it stronger? so I don't run into the same problem. thanks,
If you don't think it will work bending it back into shape, maybe it's time to buy a new one. I know OEM parts can be expensive, but it might be worth it to avoid future headaches. And who knows, maybe there's a more affordable aftermarket option you can purchase.
Do the holes play a big part on the door check from hitting the window bracket? My friend that helped me also a retired Toyota technician (15 years) helped me bend the hole where the damaged from over extending over the years. It worked for one day then it started again. Couldn’t close door without bending my new window bracket. This time we took the door panel off. And watched the door open and close. After a couple of doing that. He noticed the door checker starting to hit the bracket and not turning in a angle. He said it looked like it was having some friction when it should turn away from the window bracket. Going back to Toyota or look for aftermarket door checker. Hope it works
Great video mate, I think I will be able to tackle this job after watching your video. 1 Question.. what size drill bit did u use 17:09
Don't remember. Just eyeball the size of the weld and match that with the drill bit size. It's not an exact science. If you're worried about removing more material than you need, start smaller and work your way up until you can break the weld.
@@TimmyTheToolman purchased a pack of drill bits so will start of with a small bit and keep eye balling it unit it splits apart, thanks mate
@@kayali8842 That's the way to do it. Good luck with the job!
Oh Hell ya! I need to do this!
You will like the result. It's a very satisfying repair.
Thanks again for another helpful video Timmy. Happen to have a vid on replacing driver and front passenger seatbelts? Mine won’t retract anymore. 99TR4
Hey Marc, we do not have a video for replacing the seat belts but maybe we will make one. There's been a few people who have asked about fixing non-retracting seat belts.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for considering. I took apart my interior a year or so ago and messed with the seat belts. I couldn’t figure out how to disassemble and got scared I would break it if I tried too hard. I gave up and now just have to be careful not to slam my door on the seatbelt. Same thing on the passenger side. It gets kinda embarrassing to tell my passengers to be careful though 😬. Wish I could hire u as my personal mechanic. Watching ur vids has made my restoration easier. I’ve also shared ur channel with my other 4R friends.
@@marcsmartinez01 Have you done any searching online for any write-ups or videos for fixing seat belts on Toyotas? Great to hear our videos are helping you out and thanks for suggesting our channel to your friends. We appreciate it!
@@TimmyTheToolman Had not searched other sources since you’re my “go to”. Really no rush since it more of an inconvenience rather than a necessity such as replacing LBJs. (This was the first advice u gave me when I started the restore). I’m building my Instagram as we speak. Only have 3 pics with more to come. marc99t4r
@@marcsmartinez01 Ok, gotcha Marc. I'll do some research into it.
Timmy the toolman the Websites for the door check both say unavailable, do you know any other website to get the door check repair kit from?
I don't unfortunately. This Russia Ukraine war has screwed everything up.
@@TimmyTheToolman yes it has, thanks for the response. Kinda tired of the door closing on me when working on stuff. Let us know if you find another source for the part
@@Reqzabx Yeah, we'll update the video description if we hear of another supplier.
Did not spot weld it back, what's the chances the two metal piece separated with the Russian parts falling out? Harbor Freight has spot weld drill bit for couple of dollars last checked. Plastic welding should provide permanent fix for the broken door part. Now I gotta fix my door checks.
You don't need to spot weld them back together. When you bolt it back into the door, the halves are held together. I think they are spot welded to just keep the parts from falling out when they are shipped and stocked by different parts suppliers.
Could you give me the part number and the web link to buy the kits to fix door check of my 1999 4runner truck.
Currently because of the Ukraine war, the supplier from Russia can't ship to the U.S. So, I don't have a solution for you for the parts.
The eBay listing in your description link has been removed, which may be because of the Russia sanctions? Anywhere else to source this repair kit?
Yeah, the Russian Ukraine war has messed up the supply coming from Russia. You can try searching for other sellers on Ebay and Amazon.
Anyone know where to get this kit for 2003 Toyota Sequoia?
dang, I need to wait a month and a half to get this in USA??? that bites!
It’s worth the wait! You’ve waited this long, what’s another month right?
@@TimmyTheToolman Just got them. Weekend project here we go. Thanks for the thorough video.
Tim, could this be why Mt rear passenger doors on my LX take some effort to shut the door?
Well, usually as the door stoppers wear, they get easy to open, not harder. It's definitely possible the stopper is the culprit. Maybe it would benefit from some lubrication. Maybe spray some silicone spray onto the door stopper rod and see if that helps.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks i'll give it a try. it's weird nothing is out of alignment just takes some effort to close the door that had me wondering
@@DuanDao if the lubricating doesn't work, you'll probably want to take the door panel off and investigate further.
@@TimmyTheToolman just wanted to follow up. I sprayed down the hinges and the stopper and it must have been bone dry because after I sprayed it passenger doors shut effortlessly. Thanks for the tip
@@DuanDao Glad it worked out. You're very welcome.
For a small thing, that was frickin complicated and a 2 hour work just for a door stopper. Damn
But, now your door stays open. So there's that.
What kind of lubricant to use on it , white lithium grease ?
The kit comes with some type of graphite lubricant. I suppose any grease would help.
Tim, Will this kit fit for a 2002 Tacoma ?
I believe so but confirm this on their Ebay page.