How to replace the extruder nozzle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 มิ.ย. 2018
- Different nozzle sizes can drastically speed up the print or increase its precision. To learn more about benefits of different nozzles sizes check our other video & article: www.prusaprinters.org/everyth...
E3D nozzles on our e-shop:
shop.prusa3d.com/en/accessori...
E-shop link for nozzles compatible with Original Prusa printers directly from E3D:
e3d-online.com/prusa-upgrades
Music: Swing by Peyruis : / peyruis - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Just in case anyone isn't aware, at some point there was an update to include nozzle change in the printer's menu. Settings > HW Setup > Nozzle Change. This will home the printer > move Z to 200mm, X to the Center, Set the bed to the back > Set temp to 280C. This prevents any thermal anomaly warnings, which is something I was getting. Hope this helps.
Firmware versions 3.12 and above contain this option.
I would also recommend checking and adjusting z height after this. The new nozzle might not be at same height.
Personally I would recalibrate everything but yeah at the minimum adjust the Z height with a first layer pass.
Also failed to mention to change the nozzle diameter value in the slicer.
Petyr Baelish and in the settings of the printer itself, "and that's it!" I don't know why they skipped all these steps :(
@@blackknight3830 Maybe he expected internet people to have brains? The video is "How to install", not "How to be a baby so I can hold your hand"
Good thought- forgot that and crashed in my PEI sheet 😂
Just did it for the first time on my mk2.5! Tips for other beginners: Remember that not only is the old nozzle hot. Metal conducts heat really good! The nozzle you are changing to as well as the tools quickly heat up. I learned the hard way. Oh well, I have 9 othet fingers ;D
I can't recommend to replace the nozzle like descripted here any longer!
First reason: after ~10 nozzle replacements, the wires of the heater capsule inside of the heater block just break off because of to much wire bends.
Second reason: after initial loosing of the heat break, you may have the risk to don't get the heat break not tied enough anymore. Resulting that nozzle and heat break don't touch anymore inside of the heat block. This causes leaking of molten filament over time what will causes slidly under extrution and but high chance of blobbing. This is a very slow process! You will not see this directly after the nozzle swap! But weeks or months later you will notice oozing and filament blobs on your nozzle and your heat block.
I experienced both problems above with my Prusa i3 MK3 respective MK3s.
I suggest to swap the nozzle (if necessary) as following:
1. Remove the filament fan and the air directing shroud.
2. heat up your nozzle/hot end as descriped in the video.
3. Place some thing soft but heat resistent on your heat bed to avoid damages by accidentally dropped parts.
4. Move up the extruder unit as descriped in the video.
5. Use a bigger pliers or a variable wrench to hold the heat block as good as possible in it's position! Grab the heat block on the short sides to avoid any contact with the thermistor and heat capsule wirering! DO NOT GRAB THE LONGER SIDE OF THE HEAT BLOCK!
6. Use a socket as descripted in the video to unscrew and handle the accordently nozzle.
7. Screw in the new nozzle as descripted in the video. Hold the heat block in it's position as good as you can!
8. The nozzle should screw in pretty easily, dont use a ratchet to fix the nozzle! Just tied the nozzle by hand!
9. This is importend! Check if the nozzle is not totally screwed in! There have to be ~1mm gab between nozzle tipp and heat block were you see a bit of the nozzle thread.
If the replacement nozzle is screwed in completly there is something wrong! Maybe your new nozzle has a shorter thread then the old one. In that case leaking of molten filament is pretty likely!
Stop the process, disassamble the extruder unit and then the entire hot end. Adjust how fare the heat break is screwed in the heat block. You may have to screw in the heat break more. Here are a great video discussing the problem and how to fix it: th-cam.com/video/FNXYL-3UdOA/w-d-xo.html
10. If the nozzle is screwed in correctly cool down the nozzle and reassemble the filament fan and the fan shroud.
11. Your new nozzle is maybe a bit higher or shorter then the old once. You should run the First Layer Calibration again!
12. If First Layer Calibration doesn't work or the Z-adjustemt values are completly off, you may should readjust the height of the PINDA-Probe. You should check the manual and redo the PINDA adjustment and pre flight check. At this point you are strongly adviced to redo the calibration wizard! XYZ coordinats are most likely pretty off.
If you plan to swap the nozzle more often you should consider to buy at least one spare heat capsule and thermistor probe for the heat block! Each part is about 11€ for a original one but you can get on amazon 5-10 parts from china for around 10-15€
Overall I don't think the nozzle swap is as trivial as presented in this video! You really should think about if it is necessary or not.
Yep yep yep yep agree, I just fixed a leaking between the heat break and heat block. The main problem was turning the heat block to swap the nozzle loosened the two.
@@andrewong3724 I really don’t understand why Josef gave such a bad advice. I exactly had leakages when I followed his instructions
Yup, this video is full of bad advice. I also ran into the same problem and now need to completely disassemble the hotend in an attempt to fix the leaking. What a pain
Or just get a Mosquito
@@sasca854 what’s that?
Short, informative and concise. Bravo. Although I would lightly pinch the heater block then do the full tightening with the nozzle.
Thanks buddy. Was able to change my nozzle without issues.
I cannot wait until I get enough to get one of your amazing machines. I own a Prusa i3 clone as of now but the real thing in my maker space is going to be so cool!
make it yourself, they give out all the designs and firmware.
Also I'd recommend wearing thin work gloves such as 3M comfort grip gloves, in case the burning hot nozzle bounces off your hand as it falls off.
Thanks, this was a lot easier than I had expected. Hardened nozzle now printing carbon fibre filament. Cheers!
great video! love your printers and would like to get one someday in the future! keep on doing your great work
Nice! really like these informative videos!
vice grips in a pinch but for the love of your printer, don't use needle-nosed pliers
Thank you you help so much I rlly want a prusa printer
The i3 MK3s doesn't allow you to change like this, as the new channel for the wires under the extruder block means there's nowhere to grip the block like at 0:58. This means you have to grip at the front, however then you can't get to the nozzle, and the new fan placement means removing the fan too... And the PINDA probe gets in the way. Then, there's z-calibration to be done after, so all in all, it's about 90 minutes work, plus risk of breaking something, which is why people don't change nozzles.... I think the idea that it's quick and easy is entirely misleading.
Strange in the description for the 3S upgrade it says that you can change the PTFE Tube a lot easier ... I wondered how that is possible ... haven't looked at the new files for the extruder yet. You say it is harder. Hm.
@@VictorSteiner It is harder to change the nozzle, not the tube. I haven't tried the hotend removal yet. I think removing it will be easier, however GETTING to it may be harder. So far, not been impressed with the update, it's made some things worse, and not much better.
Should’ve seen this earlier. Melted part of the fan shroud during the nozzle change…
90 minutes? Hardly. Under 10 mins total including first layer calibration z height.
@@MrWizard65 As you can't get a grip on anything, and there's no space, and you've waited to heat everything, and you've had to get everything out of the enclosure, etc etc etc.. I am an experienced engineer, and can safely say this is now a rather long process. I'd love to see a 10 minute video though - sure I could pick up some great tips if you can really do it in that time!
Why are so many people commenting about how hard it is in reality to change the nozzle ? I mean, I'm 14 and managed to change the nozzle about 10 times (0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 mm ). I've had only problems when I tryed it for the first time, this was mostly my fault because I didnt do a coldpull (which is recommended). Dont worry ! It may seem hard, but if you not sure you can maybe ask someone for help. Its *very* important to stay calm.
you're less nervous when you didn't pay for it, mommy can't buy them another one
Thank you from a newbee worked well for me...
🐝
Thank you ! You’re always helpful
Are there any other added steps to ensure that there is no material trapped between the nozzle and the heat break?
Good tutorial!
This works perfectly and without hassle. Changed to a hard metal nozzle for printing XT-CF20. No calibration required.
This is a good video I can point people to teach them thanks.
I'm guessing this will be the next video.
Small nozzle = detailed slow prints
Big nozzle = faster less detailed prints
Hardened nozzle = for more abrasive materials
I had to change the nozzle to use Carbon Fiber filaments (MK3s) I chose Nozzle X because it has almost the same thermal profile like the brass stock one. Reading all these comments almost made me renounce. But I decided to give it a try. After taking out the fan shroud I've noticed it was much easier to put the adjustable wrench from the side, 45 degrees down incline, front and back, taking care not to touch Pinda. It literally took me 2 minutes to change the nozzle. And 30 minutes more to run all the calibration procedures. XYZ, PID, First layer.
P.S. I didn't turn the heat block like in this video.
Short and really effective video to understand nozzle replacement :O
Really good job. Thank you !
exactly how big is the gap between the nozzle and the heat block? I'm still having issues with my machine
My mk3 s has more stuff in the way. I have changed quite a few nozzles. Just broke the wire in my hot end this time. There needs to be a dedicated place to attach a wrench or bar to take out the nozzle. Even if it’s just a shot that receives a little bar or something.
OK - I followed this exactly step by step.
However, my nozzle now does not have a gap between it and the heat block.
It is the exact nozzle I was previously using. I just took it out to clean it. Then put it right back in - and now there is no gap.
What did I do wrong?
How do you make the fillament go through the extruder liike that? I have to re-start my print three times before the fillament goes through?
After I did this, the nozzle rammed into the bed. So I had to recalibrate the Z axis AND reposition the PINDA probe. also, plastic was oozing from the top o the heater block. how can I clean all of this? How can I make sure the hotend, and the nozzle are properly installed?
I started heating up the hotend and smoke started pouring out of the extruder head. Was that the remaining PLA filament? Was that my extruder? Am I screwed?
Using the heater block as a form of tightening or loosening is something I consider dangerous as it can bend the heat break.
+1 as there's no need to do that anyway - just unscrew the nozzle while holding the block in place
And avoid using the pliers - 16mm non adjustable wrench works very nicely if you don't have an adjustable one
E3D themselves suggest unscrewing it to avoid tightening against the heat-break, they have instructions that very closely matches what Prusa did in this video. The only part where they are more informative is telling us how much torque should be applied.
@@istvanmolnar7637 E3D recommends 3 Nm, which is very tight.
What about when your heat break spins, because the only thing holding it in place is clamp force from the plastic housing?
Easy as changing the lens of a camera? What kind of cameras do you guys use? :)
Those pliers are a very bad substitute for an adjustable wrench. If you want to avoid marring the block then a smooth jaw plier wrench really helps.
I wonder if it's too much to have a nozzle swap routine built into the firmware. Cranking the dial to set the temperature gets old.
i changed my nozzle from an 0.4 to a 0.25 nozzle and on some places on my bed i can see the printbed troughout my first layer. What can i do ?
Thanks for sharing :-)
Tried last night and failed to loosen. My 7mm socket just had a slim screwdriver handle and that was totally inadequate to produce sufficient torque. Today I realised I could attach a 90-degree lever to the socket set. I heated the nozzle to 285 and applied a bit of pressure and heard the click as the nozzle began to turn. Nozzle extracted.
I have been using the same nozzle for 6 years, and I think it might be time to change it lol.
Is there a proper torque setting for the nozzle on an MK3S?
Which Nozzle do you use for the Prusa printing farm? I am looking for a nozzle for petg that has minimum wear
What I don't understand is how one can unscrew the heater block from the heat sink since the heat sink is round and not held tightly anywhere??
new mk3s+. Few test prints success since out of box. just tried following along , and broke off the nozzle inside the thermistor. :(
I went ahead and preheated it to 285 degrees and waited for it to heat up.
By the time it reached this temperature I started turning the nozzle but it wouldn't turn.
Then I heard a beep, followed by the error message ''THERMAL RUNAWAY'' on the LCD panel, and now my nozzle won't heat up.
"Simple and easy!" except that the brass nozzle sheared off while trying to unscrew it and now I have a printer I can't use. Thanks, Josef, for once again providing substandard parts.
Same thing here...
Good GOD I can't wait until I have that Mk4 upgrade kit. This process is a nightmare.
If your nozzle has filament on it, it could seal itself inside your socket when the filament hardens. Good luck getting it out.
will you come to the barcelona maker faire?
Because I am pretentious (see American) I would like to not use a crescent wrench (spanner). Any chance I could get a metric size of the heater block so I can get the right sized wrench for it? I can not find a ruler with metric units on it in the house...
Hey there, new to 3d printing and trying do my first nozzle change and I've followed the instructions here to the letter but the nozzle wont budge an inch and Im afraid the wrench will slip if I use any more force, any help would be much appreciated.
Exactly the same thing happened to me and I ended up bending the heat break and having to replace the whole hot end in order to get up and running again quickly. I think the nozzles get fused into the heat block by encrusted filament gunk. It might be an easy job on a pristine, brand new printer (as in this video), but not on a machine which has been used in the real world for a while.
the heaterblock seems a bit loose. maybe 2mm wiggle. is this normal?
Could we get an update for this for the Mk3s+? It's harder to find a good angle to hold the heater block without shorting wires on that printer.
Did you ever figure out how to hold the heat block on the Mk3s+?
So ever since I replaced the nozzle, the heat block is very loose. How do I fix this?
I did it exactly this way and now my heater block won't tighten back up. What was the point of loosening the actual block? I'm genuinely curious.
Great information.
hi,bei mir tritt seit neuem immer wieder das filament am heatblock raus , was mache ich falsch ?
Tanks!
whats the thing on the extruder shaft for?
It works, just did it, but the main problem is just getting access. On my i3, the red cables were basically up against the heater block, and getting a wrench in there was almost impossible. I resorted o using pliers. You also have to keep holding the heater block with the pliers while unbolting the nozzle and while putting it back which wasn't the easiest thing in the world with parts this small and crammed up under the extruder assembly so you can't see a thing and have to do it basically blind. But, got it done. Let's just say that with this first experience with this, I absolutely can - not - wait - for E3D to get their Revo products to market so I can buy them, because this primitive stuff with wrenches is no fun at all.
Welp, I overestimated the strength of my left hand when putting the nozzle back. Heat block slipped and I think I've screwed up some of the wires.
kek
i have the same probleb bro
How about replacing the whole assembly bc a print went bad and stuck on those wires?😬
Guys, you really should replace this video with a new one! 1. You didn't point out that you have to remove the fan nozzle. 2. You will probably bend or even break the heat break if you turn the heat block holding it off-center with a wrench, like you did. 3. You absolutely must check the z-height after this, since there's a good chance of ramming the nozzle into the bed after having it changed.
1) We removed the fan nozzle just for the video. You don't have to remove it when you change the nozzle (we normally don't).
2) The heat break is fine, but you are correct, be careful when holding it!
3) If you replace the nozzle with an original E3D nozzle, the live Z usually stays perfect. But it doesn't hurt to re-do the first layer calibration just in case.
Prusa 3D by Josef Prusa what about the nozzle size setting in the printer menu? What about the new configuration in the slicer?
Prusa 3D by Josef Prusa if i try to turn the heatbreak it wonˋt loose , i dont want to put to much force on with the wrench , everything feels unstable like it woud bend if i put more force on (prusa mini) what can i do ? 🙈. Wd 40 ?
@@Prusa3D The mk3s now has the part fan right in the way, and the cable management also right in the way. There is nowhere to hold the heat block. Made changing nozzle (which was possible on mk3 a complete no-no without taking everything apart and an hour or so per change is not worth it.
@@Prusa3D I don't understand this. There's nowhere to hold the heatbreak. If one removes the fan and shroud, you can grip the front few mm only, due to the new cable layout. Changing nozzle became very hard with the S.
do you know the proper torq it required ?
I'm confused about why there's you have to twist the heaterblock a bit.
do you need a special nozzle for printing with some exotic materials? like nylon filled with carbon?
Yeah, some filaments can be quite abbrasive and you definitely need some kind of hardened nozzle for them. Especially the metal filled ones or, for example, the glow in the dark filaments.
- Mikolas
If you don't heat up the nozzle how do you fix it?
Why do you unscrew the heater block before removing the nozzle?
So you slowly break your thermistor cables over time and they can sell you a new one.
I feel like advancements in hot ends have come far enough that manufactures should start looking into adding some ease of maintenance into their designs. The hot end is the most often maintained part of the machine and it should come apart and go together quickly with a single tool or no tool.
That is also the only thing I don't like about the mk3 i3. I know they aren't using a full v6, they have some Frankenstein setup, which is fine except, taking apart the extruder and hot end is a pain in the ass. Like basically the only part of a modern FDM that needs fixing anymore.
It would have been done already if it was possible. You have to heat it up because the metal expands. And because it's hot, you need to use a tool. And you need a secure fit because the filament is a liquid and will happily find any gap. Keep in mind, lots of maintenance things need tools! Think car wheels for example.
As an aside, the i3 uses a real, full V6, not sure where you heard otherwise.
Should I add some sort of sealing agent to the extruder threads prior to new extruder installation to minimize the risk of leaking?
Please help I changed the nozzle and in slic3r I found where I can change the nozzle diameter but everything else is off as it was preset for 0.4 mm is there a 0.25 mm profile
*HELP*
There is! Select Configuration - Configuration Wizard. Here you'll see tick boxes under each printer. Tick 0.25 mm nozzle and then click Next till the end.
Now you can switch the printer to Original Prusa i3 MK3S 0.25 nozzle (the printer name may be different depending on what you pick in the wizard)
Prusa 3D by Josef Prusa thank you it works perfectly. Thanks for the quick response
I got a MK3 a month ago and I love it, it's truly an amazing machine. But is there a way to disable the loud beep that occurs when you unload the filament? It's so loud!
Maybe cover the speaker with some sticky tape? It's on the LCD board above the rotary dial. That won't disable it, but should make it quieter.
Compile a new firmware without the beep. Not joking, that is what controls it.
Was just looking at the git for the firmware and the devs are talking about adding beeps for preheat achieved and the ability to turn off the beeps so it might be coming
In settings you can change the volume
@@wooooo948 I dont think that option was there 8 months ago!
I Had the problem, that when i tryed to re-tighten the heatblock, the whole heatsink rotated with it, so i could not be tightened. Would be cool if The Heatsink would be held by some screws to prevent that and make tightening simpler.
I just had the same problem, and it caused my heatbreak to back out of the hot-end little by little after several nozzle changes. All the rotating of the heat block back and forth to get the heat break seated correctly caused the thermistor wire break. I wish I'd just held the hot end with a crescent wrench and prevented it's movement altogether while I did the nozzle changes.
Hi, I changed my old nozzle with a new one. But I have over extrusion issue. does anyone have the same problem?
You probably dialed your settings according to your old nozzle and it may have been a little clogged or have a slightly lower diameter than it should have. Revert everything related to extrusion to stock in your slicer, check that your nozzle is the diameter you think it is, and you should be good to go.
Would be nice to have a preset for preheating "285 degrees/change nozzle"
It has now.
Why should I unscrew the heater block?
Seems to be adding more risk of damaging something.
Is holding it in place not enough?
If you hold it tight enough when you tighten the nozzle it's fine. This is just a really safe way to force people not to tighten the nozzle against the heater block without holding it. Because that would often lead to damaged heatbreak.
@@Prusa3D Hey, thanks for answering! Your printers are great.
I am eagerly expecting the SL1.
@@Prusa3D Unfortunately I think I've damaged my heatbreak's securement within the heatsink due to these instructions. You can see the issue here: www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/b7ie93/loose_heatbreakblock/
Hello,
is this the same way for the MK3S?
Thank you very much.
Pretty much, yes :) You don't need to remove the fan shroud, if you move Z all the way up, you'll have decent access to the nozzle.
Yes, and it is not fast nor easy to change the nozzle. Your instruction is misleading, incomplete and partly wrong.
@@kontaktstudienschaft8722 the fact that you can't handle a wrench does not mean that this is hard.
@@kontaktstudienschaft8722 Set yourself up for success, Kontakt. Give yourself a spacious area to work and use the correct tools. Though it’s possible to use other pliers, it’s unoptimal. Good luck.
It is the latest i3mk3s, unlike the contents of the video, if you press Enter after settings → temperature → Nozzle → 285 ℃, it will return to the first screen. Is this normal? The nozzle broke when I tried to remove it
The cause was that the thermo was broken. I want you to sell replacement parts as well.
Highly recommend that this video be updated-- the instructions have been updated to remove the fan shroud for better access, and this video makes no mention of this
I heated the nozzle upto 285 and then as I was starting to loosen the heating block, smoke started coming from the general area around the extruder gears. I got so scared that I just turned off the printer and didn't attempt again. I don't know what burned up in there. I don't think it's any of the wires but I'm still not too sure. I still need to clean that nozzle. Any suggestions?
The smoke could have been some leftover PLA loaded into the extruder, some adrk goo may come out with your next filament load, but hopefully, that's about it.
@@Prusa3D Thank you so much for confirming that. Yes, exactly what you said happened. The goo freaked me out too. But nothing seems to be affected beside that. Thanks.
I do not understand why to do it hot, since the material expands and it is more difficult to remove and put
Is there a need to run the Z calibration process after installing new Nozzle? Or do we simply adjust Live Z to account for any possible variation? Surprised Z calibration was not a consideration in this How To.
Generally, you don't have to adjust it. I changed the nozzle about 20 times and never touched and the first layer was still on point. However it can't hurt to re-calibrate it if you want
Old but still relevant:
You should do a manual 1st layer calibration, yes. Just to be sure. I would not risk the hassle of a failed build.
Even 0.02 mm more or less due to the nozzle having production tolerances and your tightening process can mess up your 1st layer adhesion.
I tried to change my nozzle for the first time and it's so tight it won't come off, I'm afraid of breaking the heat break, is this normal and do I just need to use more force? I don't think it should take that much strength to take the nozzle out. Anyone else had a similar issue?
Are you sure you have the nozzle preheat to max temp?
@@Prusa3Dyep, had it up at 285oC, I eventually got it out last night, most stressful thing I've ever done! 😖 It was really stuck and I was terrified of breaking the heat break, I just had to use more force than I was comfortable with, I think it will be a lot easier next time. Thanks!
do you have to heat the block first ?
You should.
I guess the reason is, that aluminium has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than brass, making it easier to ge the brass nozzle out of the aluminium heater block.
And if you touch the wires with the wrench you could short circuit the machine.
So I was an idiot and tried unscrewing the nozzle before watching any videos. Thus, I did not heat the printer up. The nozzle was so tight that I ended up cracking it in half. So now half of my old nozzle is still wedged into the box with no way for me to remove it. Is there anything I can do at this point or am I cooked? (Please anyone respond ASAP)
It's thermistor wires not fan wires. Just in case if anyone is wondering what them wire are
I just tried to change the nozzel on the Mk3s+ and not only does this not match but there is absolutely no ability to do this in the 2 minutes this video shows
0:57 Unscrewing the heater block is really important. I forgot that part and had endless clogging and underextrusion. Wasted hours on failed, spongy prints before I could figure out why.
and why? i suppose because you omit loosen heatbreak bur what it causes?
Can u pls help me i ripped of the red cables on the side and now i dont know how to fix it
Contact our 24/7 live chat support at shop.prusa3d.com and our guys will help you :)
I tried that exactly, point to point but nozzle didn't come out. While trying I broke heating element. I had my heat break bent and now I have a non-working MK3. I'd love to buy replacements but I'm afraid I can't afford.
I broke my heater wires while assembling. I ordered replacements from matterhackers in the US. $12 US.
Prusa offers individual part warranty on kits and a full warranty on pre-assembled printers. Get in touch with the support team and see what options are available to you.
The heatsink can turn and not tighten.
I watched the video at the end and then the video at the end of that one and I keep going in circles :(
It’s been 2 years, how do I break out of the loop
what hexagon screwdriver you use ? we got dickhead support at netherlands cause we didnt order printer from them but we do order filaments from them.. they want me charge l ike 16 euro per hour wen their english support can help
Sheared off the nozzle last time. It doesn't come loose and given how fragile it is I'm stuck. It's broke either way so I guess it doesn't matter. Why don't you pop over to England to the hot end factory and work on this design? It's well past time for it to be fixed.
Don't bend the what? I bent it. Do I need a new one?
Edit: I think it was the heat break. I bent it back straight with my eyeball, did a first layer calibration, and printed myself a whistle. Seems okay 🤷♂️
Why does the nozzle need to be hot in order to be removed?
Because of thermal expansion. It will be extremely tight when cold. And if you tighten it cold, it will be a bit loose once hot. -Mikolas
Damn... so the nozzle must not be screwed all way into the block! There is a gap! Good to know.
This doesn't include all of the steps that are in the manual and on your site. The fan is supposed to be removed first, and then the steps are the same. I had a very difficult time getting the heat block to turn and then an even tougher time getting my old nozzle out. When I finally did, and got the new nozzle in, it was tough to get the heat block back to its original postion. And the red wired also hung donw after replacing the nozzle. I had to try to move them back up. This is not an easy task like it is for my creality machine.
First of all, a small release of the heater block caused it to touch the edge of the fan holder and it started to melt. Luckily I noticed it in time and the damage was not great.
Second, without a ratchet there is no way to replace the nozzle. I tried with pliers and it didn't come loose even a little bit.
I used to have an Ender 3 printer and changing the nozzle was so easy and quick and didn't require any sophisticated tools.
Honestly, I'm very disappointed!
We are sorry about these issues. If there is something we can do for you, please let us know over the mail or our 24/7 live chat.
Our colleagues will give you helping hand.
I noticed that there is a lot of movement on the hotend side to side on my printer and it looks like it has movement on the printer in the video also, surely this is bad for prints????????????????
When this happens for me, I remove and then re attach the heater block too to make sure everything is tight to the heatbreak etc.
"Simple and easy!" except that you now have to check if the nozzle height is the same as before...
With original E3D nozzles, you don't really have to. Some off-brands might have slightly different dimensions, so in that case, you could re-do the first layer calibration. But you'll see that during the first print and you can just quickly change the Live Z adjust as the skirt is being printed.
He always says the instructional videos are simple and easy. I'm actually pretty pissed-off now. Went through the crappy steps in this video and the nozzle won't loosen.
There are at least 2 new hotend designs that make it way easier to change nozzles...time for technology to move on from the 5 year old V6.
If you have no sense of self-preservation like me, you can screw the new nozle in 3/4 of the way by hand