THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen (it won't start if low oil becouse of sensores), gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety censors), sparkplug checked for good spark, check the manual circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the gen to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed by rats so I replaced them, by this time it started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so I knew it was electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, ( I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one unit) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and bingo it's runing like a champion. For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover becouse you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen then put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at your RV. Once the gen it's installed back at your motorhome or RV start your gen to be tested for electric power but don't forget to flip the electric switch (on) at the gen electric panel (sometimes hiding under or around the electric controls) to transfer power to your RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, if your it's equipped with GFCI reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at you main breakers panel, flip your main switch (on) along the others ones at this moment if you still don't have power then it's a faulty main braker, flipping it many time sometimes make it work again, mine did it, lol!!! If yours didn't buy a new main breaker. If this can help eaven one person save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
sounds more like a carburetor issue rather than the brushes. If you can keep it running...get some higher oct gas and some engine - fuel additive into the gas...this will start to clean out more of the crud built up in there,
I've been working on my Onan Emerald lll generator for two days now. I finally gave up and removed the unit out of my Gulf Stream motorhome. They put it in such a small compartment removing it is the only way I can access the spark plugs or remove the carburetor. Before I reinstall the unit I'm building a slide out tray for it so in the future I won't have to remove the entire generator to work on it.
I have been working on my Emerald III For a while now. And if I’ve learned anything, it’s to check your ignition components first if you cant get it to keep running (points breaker, ignition coil, wires, condenser, spark plugs) because it sounds like it is missing while it’s running, and any of those components would cause that to happen. Then I would obviously run some sea foam through that carb to clean it up, and give it a good tune. If you are still having problems to this day, ask any question you want and I will do my best to answer, good luck!
@@zamfully I can help you troubleshoot your problems and fix them. just describe your issues in detail on here and I will see what I can do! But to summarize your issues, Its going to carb related most likely, and will require possibly a rebuild, but mostly just some adjustments. Maybe even some choke adjustments. try this tip next time you are in a high elevation; hold your choke open on the carb while cranking it to see if it fires, if it does, then I would adjust your heated choke so that it's not putting so much weight on the choke. Also, just in general, make sure your choke system is operating as it should, it should bounce back to being closed when the genset is off when you push on it, and shouldn't have any resistance to it. hope this helps!
I clean mine. I used carb cleaner and blew it out with the air compressor and installed it and it fired up.. I watched this video first. th-cam.com/video/GBED2qjKoFE/w-d-xo.html
Sounds like it's hitting on one cylinder, which suggest you have a broken ignition rotor...and you have to split the generator to replace the 30 dollar part.
Mine started ok after sitting years, I shut it off it won't start now, has no spark. Any ideas? How likely is it the points need cleaning and adjustment?
your problem is definitely the carburetorLook at the carburetor the throttleadjustment is moving back and forth really fast it's not supposed to do that your missing something to keep that in place when you go to start it hold it with your hand in one position or the other and it will stay running
Help. I have this model. The carburator started leaking, then I opened the oíl cap to check the level and a bunch of gasoline came out of the oíl reservoir. Anybody have an idea what can be wrong?
Thanks Larry. Found the problem, the carburador is cracked. Need a new one, just the body, not the whole assembly. Plant model 4 OBGE-1R Serie A870 864041. Cummins wants big bucks. I am looking at Amazon, Ebay etc, nothing yet. Any idea where can get one?
Forget the generator until the engine runs properly. Start with the basics. What diagnostic code does it show? Change the oil. The excess is probably gas. Air induction system. Is it clean? No mouse nests? Clean filter? Fuel. Is the fuel pump working? Is the fuel fresh? Does the filter pass fuel? Is the spark plug clean? Remove the carb bowel. Is it clean? Most likely gummed up with old gas. Carb spray through the throat is useless. Once it works properly, maintain it properly and you'll not have anymore trouble.
Looking at you video, I saw a few things you missed. I just got my emerald plus going, after it sat 2 1/2 years in the RV. First off in your video I notice your governor does not move when you try to start it, second your slip rings needs to be cleaned, I did mine with an emery board. Start with those first.
@@johnkuczera also that reply about the rectifier, it wouldn't hurt to check it, but the rectifier is only relevant after it gets going, not to start it. Did you do the oil sensor test yet?
You need 12 volts to the coil for the unit to run, just like a car. No 120VAC, no 12V except on start from the bat, as soon as you release the switch, no 12V.
@@brucedelacruz7677 Doesn't the 12 volts come from the battery? Some of The 120 volts generated by the generator is converted to 12+ volts to keep the battery charged.
@@SHOoffroad Yes, the 12 volts comes from the battery, not the generator. 12 volt power comes from the power converter that is part of the coach, not the generator. And yes, it is useless to mess with the generator section if the engine doesn't run.
@@trustme7731 Well it sounds like a common issue with these units is that the battery supplies the initial voltage to the control board for starting, but once the engine fires and the button is released, the generator takes over, so if it isn't supplying power, the unit immediately shuts down. It's listed in the Flight Systems troubleshooting guide linked above in the comments.
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF....
"I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR"
It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen (it won't start if low oil becouse of sensores), gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety censors), sparkplug checked for good spark, check the manual circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the gen to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed by rats so I replaced them, by this time it started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so I knew it was electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, ( I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person.
I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one unit) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!!
Then I assembled everything back together and bingo it's runing like a champion.
For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel).
Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed.
Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover becouse you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!!
After testing the gen then put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at your RV.
Once the gen it's installed back at your motorhome or RV start your gen to be tested for electric power but don't forget to flip the electric switch (on) at the gen electric panel (sometimes hiding under or around the electric controls) to transfer power to your RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, if your it's equipped with GFCI reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at you main breakers panel, flip your main switch (on) along the others ones at this moment if you still don't have power then it's a faulty main braker, flipping it many time sometimes make it work again, mine did it, lol!!! If yours didn't buy a new main breaker.
If this can help eaven one person save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
sounds more like a carburetor issue rather than the brushes. If you can keep it running...get some higher oct gas and some engine - fuel additive into the gas...this will start to clean out more of the crud built up in there,
I've been working on my Onan Emerald lll generator for two days now. I finally gave up and removed the unit out of my Gulf Stream motorhome. They put it in such a small compartment removing it is the only way I can access the spark plugs or remove the carburetor. Before I reinstall the unit I'm building a slide out tray for it so in the future I won't have to remove the entire generator to work on it.
Removing the carburator on these, sometimes is not the best thing. Why do you think the carburator could be the problem?
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH ABOVE OIL FILTER UNDER THAT METAL PLATE
I have the same generator with the same problem. Did you fix it? Any updates? Was it the carb?
I have been working on my Emerald III For a while now. And if I’ve learned anything, it’s to check your ignition components first if you cant get it to keep running (points breaker, ignition coil, wires, condenser, spark plugs) because it sounds like it is missing while it’s running, and any of those components would cause that to happen. Then I would obviously run some sea foam through that carb to clean it up, and give it a good tune. If you are still having problems to this day, ask any question you want and I will do my best to answer, good luck!
My 4.0 genset starts and stays on but sounds rough. Will not start at all in higher elevations. Help would be appreciated.
@@zamfully I can help you troubleshoot your problems and fix them. just describe your issues in detail on here and I will see what I can do! But to summarize your issues, Its going to carb related most likely, and will require possibly a rebuild, but mostly just some adjustments. Maybe even some choke adjustments. try this tip next time you are in a high elevation; hold your choke open on the carb while cranking it to see if it fires, if it does, then I would adjust your heated choke so that it's not putting so much weight on the choke. Also, just in general, make sure your choke system is operating as it should, it should bounce back to being closed when the genset is off when you push on it, and shouldn't have any resistance to it. hope this helps!
Replace your oil pressure sensor. That will get it so it will keep running.
I clean mine. I used carb cleaner and blew it out with the air compressor and installed it and it fired up.. I watched this video first. th-cam.com/video/GBED2qjKoFE/w-d-xo.html
Sounds like it's hitting on one cylinder, which suggest you have a broken ignition rotor...and you have to split the generator to replace the 30 dollar part.
Looks like a intake valve issue the way the vacuum throttle valve flutters when cranking
Mine started ok after sitting years, I shut it off it won't start now, has no spark. Any ideas? How likely is it the points need cleaning and adjustment?
your problem is definitely the carburetorLook at the carburetor the throttleadjustment is moving back and forth really fast it's not supposed to do that your missing something to keep that in place when you go to start it hold it with your hand in one position or the other and it will stay running
Help. I have this model. The carburator started leaking, then I opened the oíl cap to check the level and a bunch of gasoline came out of the oíl reservoir.
Anybody have an idea what can be wrong?
the float in the carberator is stuck in down or open position , gas contines to flow and goes into the engine
Thanks Larry. Found the problem, the carburador is cracked. Need a new one, just the body, not the whole assembly.
Plant model 4 OBGE-1R
Serie A870 864041.
Cummins wants big bucks.
I am looking at Amazon, Ebay etc, nothing yet.
Any idea where can get one?
@@eduardogalarza8959 without knowing where the crack is or how bad I have fixed cracks in carbs and aluminum with JB Weld works great.
Ground out of the oil wire and then clean the oil sending unit
When you let the oil out it look like it had water in it it came out so thin looking I would change the oil and filter
Forget the generator until the engine runs properly.
Start with the basics.
What diagnostic code does it show?
Change the oil. The excess is probably gas.
Air induction system. Is it clean? No mouse nests? Clean filter?
Fuel. Is the fuel pump working? Is the fuel fresh? Does the filter pass fuel?
Is the spark plug clean?
Remove the carb bowel. Is it clean? Most likely gummed up with old gas. Carb spray through the throat is useless.
Once it works properly, maintain it properly and you'll not have anymore trouble.
there was a lot of gas in the oil
La mía no. Podido arrancarla se apaga
Did you get it running I’m having the same problem please let me know
Not yet, but with the weather finally getting nicer up here I'll be taking another crack at it.
Looking at you video, I saw a few things you missed. I just got my emerald plus going, after it sat 2 1/2 years in the RV. First off in your video I notice your governor does not move when you try to start it, second your slip rings needs to be cleaned, I did mine with an emery board. Start with those first.
@@johnkuczera also that reply about the rectifier, it wouldn't hurt to check it, but the rectifier is only relevant after it gets going, not to start it. Did you do the oil sensor test yet?
Brushes has nothing to do with the way the motor runs.
Why on earth look at the generator section when he motor isn't running?
You need 12 volts to the coil for the unit to run, just like a car. No 120VAC, no 12V except on start from the bat, as soon as you release the switch, no 12V.
@@brucedelacruz7677 Doesn't the 12 volts come from the battery? Some of The 120 volts generated by the generator is converted to 12+ volts to keep the battery charged.
@@SHOoffroad Yes, the 12 volts comes from the battery, not the generator. 12 volt power comes from the power converter that is part of the coach, not the generator.
And yes, it is useless to mess with the generator section if the engine doesn't run.
@@trustme7731 Well it sounds like a common issue with these units is that the battery supplies the initial voltage to the control board for starting, but once the engine fires and the button is released, the generator takes over, so if it isn't supplying power, the unit immediately shuts down. It's listed in the Flight Systems troubleshooting guide linked above in the comments.