*100% best **Generater.Systems** I have used. A test for hurricane prep here in Louisiana: three AC units, 5000, 5000 & 8000, 3 fridges, 2 device power setups, 4 flat screens....AND I had 40% of the power meter to spare.*
After a couple hours chasing a starting problem I watched this video. I had no clue that a low RV fuel level could keep the generator from starting, but it did. I filled the tank and the generator fired right up. THANK YOU!!!
My wife and I started a long deserved RV vacation and we thought we had everything fix in our rv, First day was ok, we were hooked up to shore power at a hotsprings resort but the second day I realized I had forgotten my insulin and my son made th 2 hour trip, but then he wanted to turn on the A/C and the generator wouldn't work, So he stated trouble shooting it and after an hour later the conclusion was that the Tube that goes into the gasoline tank, from where the generator gasoline feed was, Was broken and needed to be replaced I had a 1/2 Tank of fuel and l always drive 60 and rarely 65 and made it home easy the gasoline tank was empty and was much ez easier to bring down the gas tank and replace all the old gas lines.
I know this is an older post but I was having problems keeping my Generator running, I was just about to get "stuck-in" starting with all the usual checks. I decided to watch this video first and I had forgotten about ensuring the main RV gas tank was above 1/4 full. Off to the gas station, fill up the gas tank. Arrive home try the generator , Runs Perfect;y. Just goes to show you Can teach and Old Dog new tricks. Thanks so much saving me hours of trouble shooting.
I had a similar problem with my Onan 2800. The fuel pump fails from either old gas sitting in it, or from the heat of the generator. After the second failure, I decided to mount the new fuel pump underneath my RV, and bypassed the old location with a hose. I also added a power cutoff switch for the fuel pump in the generator compartment. If I'm not going to run the genny for a while, I turn it on and then cut the power to the fuel pump and let the generator run all the gas that is left until it dies. Then I drain the carb with the screw under the bowl. So far this setup has been working well for more than 3 years.
Followed your advice and changed the fuel pump and filter today, took me exactly one hour. Was a bit of a challenge at first but if I had to do it again it would be a cinch to do. The generator has been starting quickly and works better than ever. Thank you for this video, it really helped me out!
Your video was great. I followed the instructions and got the fuel pump and filter changed without too much difficulty. Unfortunately, after replacement, the generator was still starved for fuel. I actually could feel the pump working but no fuel was being delivered to the carb. I took it all down again, only to discover a frayed fuel line in a location between my generator cubby and the onan shroud. After replacing this fuel line, problem solved. Lesson: check the fuel lines too. Thanks for your content.
Hi Remi, I did the test as brian see a good flow of gas, but still wont keep running, can you let me know how did you loose the screw that holds the pump? i got out the rest but like you with a lot of work, I don't want to strip that last screw or I WILL BE SCREWED (lol) I have teh T30 bid but still hard to loose).
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Thank you for your work. You have inspired me to take on the fuel pump replacement project, and IM no mechanic. Your step by step and pointers are very helpful. Thanks again.
Tito, my generator stopped running the other day. I watched a really good video on changing out the fuel pump and had my hat all set to do just that. I always watch more than one video on whatever I'm going to repair and stumbled on yours. Went out to my R.V. and sure enough my fuel was take was just below 1/4. Took it out of storage, filled the tank, started the generator. It ran fine. Thank you for saving me the trouble of replacing my perfectly good fuel pump with a new one.
EXCELLENT Video.. I have a NEW RV Toy hauler - 20 Gallon gasoline tank and this is the problem I've had for 2 months now. It would run for about 20 minutes or so then start oscillating and then shut off. I initially saw 3 flashes then 6 flashes on the generator switch button, research showed me that it was a fule issue. I have somewhat sound mechanical skills and understand how things work. Thinking NAW, it couldn't be a bad fuel pump this is a NEW RV. I took it back to the dealer for this and a few other issues before my 45 day adventure and supposedly they "Reset the generator back to factory specs." I ran it at the dealer for 30 minutes under full load. Bingo, I'm happy. So after 3 weeks at the dealer I get this back home happy as a lark until running this for 42 mins 12 seconds. It started oscillating again and shut off. OMG i'm livid.. Keep in mind that I haven't touch ANYTHING on this generator at this point, so now I'm wondering what needed to be reset back to factory specs. With that said, I remove the inlet hose to the carb and I'm getting a nice stream of fuel out of the same hose you showed in your troubleshooting steps. Heck, I only have 12 hours on this generator so "logically" I thought it was sucking air from somewhere. 1. I cut the hose and put a short hose in a full 5 gallon gas can and clear see through fuel filter on the inlet side of the fuel pump and another hose into the carburetor inlet. It immediately filled the clear fuel filter and ran like a champ for well over an hour under full load. No problems. Put it back together and 20 minutes later it oscillated and shut down. All the rubber fuel lines were REALLY hot the way they have them routed. To me, I was SO sure it was a vapor lock of some sorts or 2, there was somewhere it was sucking air. 2. Rather than try to find out where this was sucking air, I isolated the OEM fuel line by buying and running a NEW 30ft fuel grade rubber hose 5/16 hose, some clamps and a see through fuel filter inline and it ran for a LONG time, well over an hour. NOW, I thought, there was an issue with the OEM fuel hose from the tank *in the back of the toy hauler*. Had my friend assist dropping the 20 gallon tank down to see things and low and behold, that the aluminum OEM nipple where the hose connected onto the 90 angle that screwed into the tank was cross threaded. ** by the way there was clear 5/16 solid rubber tube from the tank side of the nipple all the way to the bottom of the tank so that cleared up the theory of low fuel. ** Gas guage showed almost 1/2 full. wow.. so, we replaced this nipple with a brass one, tested the line again and got good fuel flow. AHH HA.. we thought we had it. It ran for over an hour on FULL Load without any issues. Then all of a sudden we saw that the clear fuel filter had been sucked dry and there wasn't hardly any fuel coming from the "TANK" side through the filter.. With that said, we put a volt meter on the solenoid under the fuel bowl and cranked the motor and I got 11.45 DC volts, EXACTLY what is expected and ZERO fuel flow. So after watching your video as well as a few others I determined that it MUST be a faulting fuel pump. I know, it's still under warranty but when I called the dealership they asked me to bring in the RV again to diagnos it, get approval to replace the part, about a week to get the part then another 2 weeks to actually replace it and test it again.. Needless to say, this REALLY agitated me to no end. So with that said, I just ordered a replacement fuel pump and filter on my own and it's expected to arrive in 2 days. I'll replace this and see if this fixes the problem (which I'm ALMOST sure it will). If it does, I know that the dealer will tell me to pack sand that I just voided the warranty but this RV and other things has been planned for a 14,000 mile motorcycle trip for 2 years and I can't deter this trip any longer. Time is of the essence.. I want to thank you for sharing your video, it inspired me to just buy the damn fuel pump.. Jerry
Last night was the final test.. Woot, working like a champ. So, we believe it was a 2 fold problem. (Disconnected the battery) 1. We put a laser thermometer on the fuel line. The fuel line 1/2 way down the Toy Hauler was at a temp around 85 degrees. ** The way the hose was routed by the MFG had this fuel hose routed through a thin sheet metal deflective shield up through a hold into the generator housing where it connected to the inlet side of the fuel filter. ** 2. As I worked my way up the fuel line with the thermometer the closer I got to the sheet metal deflective shield the temp rose to 125 - 135 degrees and all the way to the clear in-line fuel filter I installed on my original post. Past this filter to the carb it stayed a steady 115 degrees. I could CLEARLY see air frothing/ bubbling into this clear filter. Once this generator warmed up it would oscillate then shut off. We would let this cool to around 100 or so degrees we would have to prime the carb and them it would start up again for a short while then shut down again. Rinse and repeat. By now, there wasn't even any clicking by the fuel pump to prime the carb. ** I know, long winded.. I received the pump and the in-line fuel filter. Your video was spot on. For my situation I had to undo the 4 bolts that secured the generator in the Toy Hauler generator compartment floor, and pry/put a wedge between the floor of the compartment and the outer housing in order to raise the generator to get to the 2, T30 screws. Once I got the screws out, like your video indicated, I could rotate the main board out, removed the negative terminal from the solenoid and unscrewed the 1, T30 screw holding that on. Once I got those out of the way a trick that worked for me was to take the hose off of the carb and feed that through the plastic tubing that protected the fuel hose going towards the fuel pump for about 4 or 5 inches. For me, the pump/fuel filter hose had 1, T30 screw like the others, I removed that and since I previously cut the fuel hose and installed that clear in-line fuel filter it was a breeze to cut that ear clamp holding the fuel hose on the carb and then wiggle the OEM pump/fuel filter out of the generator box. I assembled the new pump/fuel filter outside the box using some good Teflon tape then reversed this assembly process as you've described in your video. 3. (I didn't have to but I did anyway since I already had things cut/measured already working) I replaced the entire length of fuel line from new 90 degree nipple adapter we replaced in the original post from tank in the back of the Toy Hauler to carb this time using the same routing clamps as OEM until I got to the place where all the heat started.. re-routed that part to a cooler part of the frame and then ensured I put all the clamps in the right spot and tighten things down. No need to put that shield back in place. ** Primed the carb, fuel flowed through the clear in-line filter and she started right up. BAM. Before you know it the clear in-line filter was full of fuel, no air-bubbles. Turned on the A/C to put a load on it. Gen was steady as a rock. We sat back on our lawn chairs for about 2 hours drank a couple of brews, high fived each other a few times staring / hoping it would just run. ** NOTE: The original OEM fuel pump - You couldn't even blow air through it in either direction. heh.. when you shook it back and forth, it made a weird sucking noise. I assume that the heat from the hot fuel probably burnt up the rubber diaphragm in it. Yesterday, I got off work, opened the door to the RV like we're boondockin.. pressed the primer switch for a few seconds and BAM, started VERY fast. I ran it on full load for over an hour.. no hiccups. So, anyway, long story short.. Buy the damn pump.. Thanks RVwithTito.
Great video, and yes, it worked. I had just the problem you described. Generator ran fine for about 20-30 minutes then stopped. Fuel was not getting through. Ordered the parts, followed your video, and it runs perfectly now. Thanks Tito!
Excellent troubleshooting, suggestions, and cautions. Your video definitely gave me some insight into the dying fuel pump problem and led to a relatively simple repair. Saved some money and made Momma happy in the process. Win-win. Guys like you help guys like me look like heroes! Keep up the great work.
I know that this is an old video, but wanted to add a couple of suggestions to your excellent video. Removing the fuel line and running the pump is the definitive test, but as a preliminary test if you don’t want gas to be pumped into a bucket, you can just hold the button in the down direction and listening for the clicking of the pump as it primes. When it is pumping it clicks. When it doesn’t click it isn’t pumping. If it isn’t clicking then you can remove the fuel line to look for gas. One other tip for those living in California is that a replacement fuel pump cannot be shipped into California. The crazy reason seems to be that it contains chromium. On the other hand this can be purchased at a lower cost on eBay and with free shipping.
Very Good Video, I would also add a inline fuel filter under the vehicle before the fuel pump and filter, it will protect the pump and keep the hard to reach filter clean, they are easy to install, cheap to replace and good insurance.........
Could you recommend me a specific one? I’m planning on doing this job soon and am not too familiar with which inline filter you’ve mentioned. I have an Onan 4000.
As a generator tech i see people add fuel filters all the time. Not a good idea. It creates more restriction on the vacuum side (before pump) and makes the pump work too hard and overheat windings in pump or blows the diaphram. Just use onans stock filter. Easier to replace that filter than pumps every 100 hrs. Also i recommend the stock oem onan pump. The airtex is slightly higher psi and while it will work and is half the price. Onan has dpecifically used a low psi pump to prevent tbe fuel bowl on carb from over pressuring the float valve and having fuel come back out the carb. Many of the cheap ebay and amazon pumps can be 3x as much pressure and this can and will cause a fire. I have yet to see that with an airtex pump and used them quite often when i first started gen repair but we did some testing in class and it was about 4psi for airtex and 2.5 for onan and the leak point of new carbs was 4-6 psi and old carbs was 3-5 so veryy close to leak point. Just my advice but i have realized oem parts are the only way to go for onans. Even air filters were suprisingly important...oem are fireproof aftermarket are not. A little back flow of fuel on them and poof. Rv burns down. Dont go with cheap parts on a 3000 dollar generator. They have to run exactly right or it ruins expensive parts and can cause fires. Whatever u do ONLY USE ONAN OEM CARBS these knock offs dont work leak fuel everywhere and run tbe gen at the wrong rpm and mixture ruining your genset. Ive warned you so make your own decision. Happy rving
Trailer is a 2008 toy hauler with a fuel station. My Onan 4KY would run 10-20 minutes and starve out of fuel. Drained and flushed fuel tank, needed a new fill neck hose. Still died after running a short time. Was going to take it to a service shop, but saw on your video that it looked pretty easy. Ordered a new fuel pump, fuel filter and air cleaner through Amazon. It was fairly easy to take out and replace, but a bit difficult to get the circuit board and related stuff back in. Note: I have a long run of 30 feet of fuel line from the tank to the generator and needed to put a manual pump on the line to get fuel up to the new pump as I replaced a good part of the fuel line as well and the electric pump could not draw the fuel through the long empty line.. Also the circuit breaker on the generator itself popped and I was getting no juice after I got it running. Remembered seeing another TH-cam piece about the breaker on the side on the unit and reset it to success. Lastly you do not need to crank the motor to check the fuel pump. Just press and hold the PRIME function on the start switch and the fuel pump will run if okay, or not if bad.
Thanks David Alexander for the great tip! I totally forgot that the stop button also doubles as a prime button. That is certainly a better way to do it.
Mine also. Not sure where it can possibly come from unless I replace the entire line from the tank to the filter. The pump starts clicking (I assume this means it's got air in there)
I love your stuff. I got in a pinch today and mine wasn't pumping. You can actually tap it the pump with a wrench, not too hard and you are back in business. That tip came from Cummins. I tried it and it worked.
Nice of you to make this video. Not many how-to's on fuel filter change for Gennys. It was well done - detailed, talked us through the process, showed the parts, very much appreciated, many thanks!!
Lass-in Angeles I'm always glad to share what I've learned in hope of helping someone else out. Thanks so much for the feedback. It too is much appreciated!
Great video, I have long suffered the same problem with my Onan Marquis 5500 and had tried this same test but ruled out the fuel pump because there was a steady stream of fuel. However, I just came to the conclusion last night that it is in fact an intermittent fuel pump. An even simpler and more definitive test that I used...Run the generator until it dies, place a container under the carb and crack the float bowl drain screw (has a spring on it, located just below the altitude compensator knob on the float bowl). If you get just a drip of fuel and then nothing, you have a fuel supply issue....likely your fuel pump. If you get more than a drip (about a cup) of fuel out, it's probably not your fuel pump. If the float bowl was dry, leaving the drain screw open, hold the stop button down > 3 secs (prime), if the pump is working and there are no obstructions you would normally get fuel running out the float bowl drain but if your float bowl was dry in the previous step, you will likely get nothing demonstrating that your pump is either not working or not getting fuel. Wait 10 minutes (just as you found your gen would restart after 5-10 min of down time) then with the float bowl drain still open, hold down the stop button again > 3 secs (prime) to operate the fuel pump. You will likely hear the pump chugging and you should also get fuel running out of the float bowl drain. This will rule out a tank, line, or filter issue. To rule out a possible controller issue, in that 5-10 minute period when the pump isn't working, disconnect the pump wires and verify that the wires to the fuel pump have power. While holding the stop button (prime) check for voltage at the connector on the white wire (on the controller side) then test for resistance to ground on the black wire (again on the controller side), it should be near zero. If all is good there, then you know the pump is getting power and hopefully feel confident about dropping CDN$160 on a new pump. Don't forget to close the drain screw.
Are you available to elaborate more on this? Please DM me or contact me in some fashion. Would be glad to compensate you. I am trying to confirm my new fuel pump is not bad. Brand new Onan pump...but now not getting any fuel.
Related problem: My sisters class-C ran a long rubber fuel line from top of tank up to the generator fuel pump. Mice had chewed holes in the fuel line back by the tank so generator would start but start sucking air and stall. I found that by hooking up a temporary 1/4 piece of fuel line from fuel pump (under generator) and into a full gas can. Ran flawless so ran a new fuel line back to tank. Thanks for your video.
I love your diy’s ..... their very easy to follow and well described....a home run! One addition to your check the gas tank gauge suggestion...while doing this make sure that the vehicle is level .... i learned this the hard way ....as soon as i leveled the coach all was o.k. and the generator ran as it should...
thank you Tito for your video on how to fix a generator I did what you said on mine cuz I was having issues with it and I was able to get it running and started so thanks for all your help in making this video
Thankyou Brian for once again providing insight into a solution for a perplexing problem that obviously many of us have experienced. I'm assuming what we see on the video is a re-creation of the steps that finally led to the discovery of what this fault was with your fuel pump : It cuts off but only when it reaches a temperature it doesn't like, but after a cool down period, it will work again until the temp rises again. I too got fuel running through the initial "disconnected tube into the bucket" when the pump was in it's "cool" state. What I didn't realize until later was that I needed to re-run the tube/bucket test just after the genset shuts down after running fine for several minutes. Re-test results: no fuel flow! Let system cool for a couple hours (for me anyway as I live in Phoenix) then I re-ran the tube/bucket test again and the fuel was flowing. The Genset started right up but quit after a few minutes (as I expected it would after re-heating). You may want to edit the video (the typed popup verbiage?) for future viewers to see and comprehend the whole procedure and what the pump is doing under different conditions. To the viewers who are going to do these tests : Make sure nothing distracts you while you you have the fuel line disconnected and feeding a catch receptacle and activating the stop/prime/start button, especially once the genset and exhaust pipes, etc are HOT. Take safety precautions - no loved ones (inquisitive pets included) near, position yourself for quick retreat, possibly have fire extinguisher ready, possibly an observer to call 911 if an emergency occurs that has your focus. And viewers - it's possible that any complex "system" can be affected by more than one piece of the system.
Thank you! This helped me diagnose what I believe is the problem with my generator not starting. Should know more in a couple of days once the fuel filter and pump come in from Amazon.
Thanks for this. I was changing my fuel pump out , and lost track of where one of the wires went that could have easily gone to either ground or v+ .. was able to see the connection at 8:13 in your video.
Brian, Thank you again for your wonderful guidance. Not sure if I shared it, but I was having issues with my gen set and had forgotten the filter maintenance intervals which likely caused issues with my pump. I first replaced the filter and same symptoms persisted. So I had to endeavor to replace the fuel pump as you did. What do you know, it works like new now. Your video was a big part of my courage to take on the task.
Thanks used this test after watching video. I'm still getting a crank no start, but at least I know now that its getting fuel and not a fuel pump issue.
Testing the fuel pump while its "cold" is not a means of diagnosing this issue. The fuel pump overheats after 15-30 mins of running the generator and it fails to pump fuel, and then the generator quits. If you let the pump cool (ie, let the generator rest for a bit), the pump may work for a little bit again because its cooled down enough to start pumping fuel again. The outside temperature also contributes to the problem. My fuel pump is failing but it still runs fine if the outside temp is 80F or below. Over 90F, it fails.
@@blakethesnake1555 The only way I know to test the fuel pump is to take it from cold to hot by running the generator. mine is in an enclosed exterior compartment on my toy hauler so it’s easy to get it heated up. Additionally, I think the fuel pump itself gets heated up just from pumping the fuel. Are you experiencing the same symptoms I did with engine shut down?
I had a fuel pump that passed this test. I tried everything so I took it to a specialist. The fuel pump was bad and had to be replaced! It ran great after that!
Thanks for your excellent video and for this valuable info. We are newbies to motorhoming and are learning all we can from all the great Utube videos. We bought a 98 Bounder to start with. We love it so far, but we are troubleshooting our Onan 4000 Genset right now. Our problem is the same as you describe. It ran perfectly for one month then started to shut off after a few minutes or even up to 30 minutes with a load on it. Several tech guys have checked it and each has had a different idea of what's wrong. The latest one says that there is a safety switch which protects the gen from overheating by turning it off in the case that it does overheat. That switch commonly wears out with time and prevents the gen from running. He says that he will find that switch and disconnect it see if he problem dissappears. He is so busy that he can't see our rv for a week. I would like to do this test myself. Do you know what switch he's talking about and how to locate it?
+Linda Lambert Sorry Linda. I'm not familiar with the over temp switch your tech is referring to. The 4000 model may not have one. I know some Onan generators do have them. I'm not a tech, so take that into account. I did take a look at my Onan 4000 Maintenance Manual for you and it does not mention it. If you want to check out the manual for yourself, I uploaded it to my website here bit.ly/rvwt-onan-manual. You may want to download it and keep it for future reference. It's good to have. Check out the section on troubleshooting. Hope that helps. Good luck!
Thanks Tito, well done. It amazes me how someone can put a thumbs down on a video like this. It can only be from ill people within the same category. Thanks for your time, effort and information. Well put 👍👍
You can pull a code from a Onan generator by pressing the off button on the generator 3 times Quickly then a momentary pause, followed by one more press of the off button. This will flash a two digit code, just count the flashes. No fuel is usually a code 36. Three flashes followed by 6 flashes. You can look up the codes in your owners manual or online.
I'm going to try this. When mine shut off I thought I saw the red light flashing but I didn't know what I was looking for nor pay attention to how many times it flashed.
I just subscribed... I have a 7500 watt generator on my semi for my big sleeper... I been having troubles and im pretty sure my fuel pump isn't working good. I unhooked fuel line and it barely trickled... I even ran a line from pump to tanl to make sure it wasn't a supply line problem
@@RVwithTito i just got done doing fuel pump. I found a universal pump... And she wont start. I loosened priming screw, and tried to bleed system... She just wont fire
I had same symptoms, but I would never have thought it was the fuel pump. After watching this video several times and reading the comments, I ordered a fuel pump/filter from Amazon and replaced the original one. (Getting that bundle of wires back in place under the electrical control unit was the hardest part.) Cranked it a few seconds and it started and worked great!!! No one has mentioned what actually failed in the fuel pump. Varnish? Electrical? I think I'll try to disassemble mine and see if I see anything suspicious...
So, I used a hacksaw to slice the fuel pump in half. Inside was an electrical solenoid -- a 3/8" brass tube with a hollow plunger inside, surrounded by coils of wire. When the pump sees 12V, it forces the plunger toward the discharge port -- pushing the gas out of the pump. At the end of the stroke, some kind of switch interrupts the 12V supply, allowing an internal spring to return the plunger to the initial position. During this return stroke, a check valve allows gas to enter the center of the plunger. At the "initial" position, the 12V is re-applied and the cycle is repeated. The entire electrical portion of the pump is encapsulated in plastic, so it was impossible to look for breaks or shorts. The mechanical part consists of two check valves, two springs, and the plunger -- those all looked OK. My conclusion is that something failed in the "switch" that interrupts the power at the end of the discharge stroke. Maybe someone can figure out that part?
I believe the reason the 1/4 full tank need is safety in addition to the dip tube (pickup tube) being only so long. In addition to being on your dash(fuel level) it leaves enough gas to get to a gas station in emergency situations (you need your RV moving more than that air conditioner). Hope that helps clear some things up.
Soon to be a fulltimer coming next year, doing as much research on everything to do with RV and maintenance I can do myself in certain instances, I was a firefighter for 17 yrs so I know understand the importance of checking all your equipment on the rig before, during and after so these are the kind of videos I really enjoy. Kinda have only one itty bitty thing.....when you make your videos can you leave out the music, I find it a bit distracting and would rather listen to what you are explaining. Thanks for al the great info.
I just found this other tip on no start or stops after 40 minutes with a Onan. It turns out the oil dipstick should have been recalled on many Onan generators with any age on it! The marking are way to high and we have been overfilling our Onan and causing a lot of different types of damage to them then get to pay Cummins a ton of money for a temp fix! I haven't had a generator stop yet but I'm going down to Cummings (an old friend works there) and check with him and hopefully can give more information on it. Whats funny is I'll do my service this weekend and I mean it is OVER the 2000 hour service interval but it has only burned maybe 1/2 inch of oil on the stick and I have never had a shutdown except when the gas got low. Air filter is absolutely fine and only needs to be blown out and the gas filter I'll find out when it comes off but this unit has not failed me yet in the 3 years we have had this Minnie. But it's a Cummins and as a trucker I know how good Cummins are! BUT the pump check is a good tip for when it gets quiet on the right! Blue Sky's and Safe Journeys! th-cam.com/video/vzXDlln8aUw/w-d-xo.html
UPDATE: I called Cummings Tech Department and they said the stick is good and they never heard of this problem. This is going to be very interesting as I'm heading out with a little 100w panel until I get the 300w I want and put together a new idea all RVers will want on under their solar panels so I'll be using the generator a lot more now.
It's also a good idea to throw in new fuel lines while your in there as they can cause a problem from age. I'm about to tackle installing a new magneto in my Onan 4ky to get it to run longer than 5 minutes.
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
A very good video, but it is much more challenging than he makes it look. ***Very Important, use your phone to take pictures of it as you go along to assist you in reconnecting the wirings!
Thanks. I'm not sure what is wrong with my Onan 4000. I do a monthly 30 minute run. The generator seems to run as long as the Starter button is pressed. I have changed the air filter and spark plug. Made sure there is a spark when cranking. Took it out and held it close to metal and had a good spark. Took the fuel line off the carb and have good fuel flow. Yes the 75 gallon tank is full. I run seafoam in my fuel to counteract the dreaded Gasohol. I do not have many hours on the generator. I found you in thinking I may need to replace the filter and or fuel pump. Today I held the starter while running to get the error code 32. LOW CRANKING SPEED SENSE - FAULT CODE 32.... A. Vapor lock may occur in high ambient temperatures: operate in ambients at less than 120°F; verify proper installation to prevent air recirculation; correct as necessary. B. Measure steady DC voltage at fuel pump while genset is cranking: repair wiring as necessary. C. Try to start genset on shop fuel supply: verify tank level and fuel line condition in vehicle. D. Verify carburetor altitude setting: readjust as necessary. E. Verify choke operation, setting and linkage damage: readjust, repair or replace as necessary. F. Measure fuel pump pressure/flow: replace fuel filter or pump as necessary. G. Inspect carburetor butterfly for binding: replace carburetor as necessary.
bubbajeph It may not be carb related. It could be a wiring issue or something else. I've heard stories of mice chewing up generator wires. Maybe this will help. I pulled this out of the Onan Service Manual. PROBLEM: Engine starts but stops when switch is released POSSIBLE CAUSES 1. Low Oil Level (Action: Check oil level and add oil if low) 2. Defective low oil level switch (Action: Disconnect low oil level switch and check set operation. Replace if defective) 3. NO field flash voltage due to (a) Open circuit in wiring (Action: Check wiring continuity to the brush block F1-F2, voltage regulator VR1, control assembly A1 and generator B1-B2 and Q-1-Q2 windings. Check connections of P5 and P6 connectors on the generator housing) (b) Brushes not making good contact with slip rings (Action: Check brushes for wear and for contact with the slip rings) (c) Slip ring surface is rough or pitted (Action: Check slip rings) 4. Defective generator, control assembly A1, or voltage regulator VR1 (Action: Perform field voltage test)
Good video, but it would be so much better if all video's, not only yours, were made "actually performing" the work, not describing what was done after the work has been completed.
The safest way to test the fuel pump is to hold it in the "STOP" position. After 10 seconds it sends a signal to start the fuel pump and prime the carburetor. No need to introduce a spark from cranking an engine.
This was a very good video. I am experiencing nearly the same symtoms you described and I have the same generator. Fires up just fine when it's cold, but I add a load to it like the microwave or AC and it will only run for about 90 seconds and then shut down. Once this happens, it's not as easy to start back up (yes I turn off all loads inside before trying again). You have to prime it to hell to get it to fire, and sometimes it doesn't even fire up. I did your check in the video. Fuel streams out when I start it, and it slowly comes out when I prime it. So, this means the pump and filter are not bad, but something else with the EXACT same shut off. Any other ideas? New oil, and it's full, new air filter and spark plug. I'm baffled here... Thanks.
Oh hey Eric. Hmmm. I'm just wingin it like you. You could try and play with the governor adjustment screw to see if that has any affect. That's what regulates it under load. Normally, you don't have to touch it. Other than that, my research has shown that it's usually the carb that gets mucked up. I think the intake at the bottom of the bowl is what typically gets clogged. Some have cleaned it, many say don't bother and get a new carb. I don't know if that's the problem. My generator isn't working at 100% now either and only puts out around 1300 watts. So no AC. My plan is to attack the carb with some brake cleaner. If that doesn't work, then I'll replace it (about $350 for a new one). I rarely use my gen anyway, but I know you've got to keep Jax cool. I have a PDF copy of the maintenance manual that I'll email you when I get home. There's a troubleshooting section in there that may help.
Buy a length of fuel line and run it from the backside of the pump/filter assembly into a gas can. If the generator runs fine with this setup, you've narrowed the problem down to the fuel line. Another clue that the fuel line has a leak somewhere is that the generator will run better with more fuel in the tank than it will with less than 1/2. Of course, it won't run at all with less than 1/4 by design.
Too much oil overheats, they put in the wrong too short dipstick. It was an Onan bulletin. Put enough oil to just touch the tip of the dipstick and then it should run fine forever in the heat . Be sure to cut out vents on roof units.
We ran into almost the exact same problem with the same generator. May I suggest putting the start switch into the "prime mode"? It accomplishes the same thing without putting the wear on your starter. In fact, if you activate the prime function and don't hear the pump running you know you have an issue with the pump. This would potentially eliminate the need for disconnecting the fuel line and needing the bucket. Thanks for the videos.
@@jpmktgraphics James, The generator should have a three position switch on the generator itself. It rests in neutral and pressing the switch in one direction "primes the carb" and the other position engages the starter. When you push and hold the switch into the prime position it should activate the fuel pump. If it is working properly, you will hear it pulsing or pumping the fuel. Also be aware that on this model generator Onan in effect hid the fuel filter on the back side and under the generator as the fuel line comes into the generator.
@@davidwilmot6789, Hi David, the generator starts and shuts off, has a good stream as the test by Brian, I'll pay attention to the sond, but if I have flow wouldn't that mean that it works? plus in one moment it stayed for a few seconds ON, and yes the fuel filter is in the bottom left and i went under and it's almost hidden between the generator and the way to the fuel hose, is similar to the video but harder to reach, also I havent been able to loose the screw that holds the fuel pump, i don't want to strip the screw, do you have an i dea how else I can loose this screw? thanks for all your help!
Brian I have come to the conclusion that Onan generators are junk. In September 2021, I bought a 2022 Entegra Vision and the Onan 5500 would run for about 8 minutes when under a load of 2 a/c. I took it to Cummings in San Leandro Ca, and they replaced the fuel pump. Now once again it's having the same problem and I have an appointment at Cummings again on March 15 2022. I hope they can fix it for good this time.
It all started when I turned the A/C off when we got back from a trip. Now the gen runs for about 10 to 20 seconds and cuts off. On the starter control, It's giving me 3 blinks. I press stop and it gives me 1 blink with a pause followed by 4 blinks. Not sure if that would be considered a 35 code. I am totally lost on it. I will say this video is awesome though. I will try everything mentioned before taking it to Texas RV here in San Antonio. I had rather shell out a few bucks instead of a few thousand.....LOL
Hey Brian, I love watching your video. I have been trying to figure out what you do for a living because you have some mad skills and really nice Snap On tools LOL. - I have a very similar class C as yours. It’s an 04 29V and I think I have tripped the manual breaker. You didn’t happen to have reason to find the one on yours did you? I’m really perplexed and any input would be greatly appreciated. That includes any other viewer who might know. Much appreciated and thanks again for making all your great videos.
Love the detail in these videos!! Thank you. I have noticed that the Fuel Filter does not screw into the fuel pump completely. It looks like there is still 1/4" of the fuel filter thread still showing. So this is ok, correct Brian?
Awesome channel. It's cool that you've learned to fix so many things on your own. We are planning to travel the US for a year and I'm sure your tips are going to come in handy! Or we'll find you on the road and have you fix ours ;) haha
Question: right where the start switch is I get 3 blinking red light it is for service. My question is do the 3 blinking light go away when you do an oil change or how does it go away
Steve Christo I replaced my controller with a flight systems control board. Love it! No more failures based upon 35 some odd Onan codes! The only way it will die now is if it loses air, fuel or spark.
Steve Christo I replaced my controller with a flight systems control board. Love it! No more failures based upon 35 some odd Onan codes! The only way it will die now is if it loses air, fuel or spark.
Great help! Well I found out my Fuel pump is bad, thank you. I'm going to order the pump and filter, I do not see the link you said you shared for the parts on Amazon...?
Looks like the one I got is no longer available. If you click the link in the description then look at the "Similar Items" you'll find a comparable unit. Just make sure the fittings on either end are the same.
@@RVwithTito Thanks, found the whole tune up kit for the cummins 4KY-26100R www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07884TLCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@RVwithTito I would have liked you show us how to get to the fuel pump in more detail, LOL. There seems to be some hidden screws. I got the solenoid out but that panel underneath not to sure about and even if I get that off seems a long ways to the pump. You didn't have to take the whole generator out?
It could also be that your oil level is over filled, depending on the position of your motorhome if it not level correctly. Just empty out one pint of oil. I had that experience.
Yep, the stop button is a prime button, and the carbs usually go 1st. from lack of use, get gummed up.. Non serviceable. nowadays.. . around 250-300 bucks for one and a pain to install..
Thanks for the informative video, Tito ! I followed your suggestions & put in a new fuel pump & filter, but my Onan STILL cuts out after 10 to 15 min of solid running (no surging). I checked the new fuel pump & it shoots out a steady stream. I'm embarrassed to admit I DIDNT check the old fuel pump for gas flow. That said, what do you suggest trying next for my 'cut out after 15 min' problem ?! Thanks!
Yeah but, when you saw you had fuel flow how did you come up that it was still your pump? I may have guessed that it was the filter. I see a filter getting clogged before I see a fuel pump malfunctioning on a newer RV. And I would have thought a clogged filter would have passed enough fuel for 10 minutes until the engine starved and then caught up once it stopped running. However you figured it out it was the right thing
I did the "flow test" after it shutdown at which point I did NOT have fuel flow (very little actually). Removing and replacing the filter is just as much effort as doing the fuel pump, so I just replaced them both. It's all good now. Thanks for the comment!
*100% best **Generater.Systems** I have used. A test for hurricane prep here in Louisiana: three AC units, 5000, 5000 & 8000, 3 fridges, 2 device power setups, 4 flat screens....AND I had 40% of the power meter to spare.*
After a couple hours chasing a starting problem I watched this video. I had no clue that a low RV fuel level could keep the generator from starting, but it did. I filled the tank and the generator fired right up. THANK YOU!!!
My wife and I started a long deserved RV vacation and we thought we had everything fix in our rv, First day was ok, we were hooked up to shore power at a hotsprings resort but the second day I realized I had forgotten my insulin and my son made th 2 hour trip, but then he wanted to turn on the A/C and the generator wouldn't work, So he stated trouble shooting it and after an hour later the conclusion was that the Tube that goes into the gasoline tank, from where the generator gasoline feed was, Was broken and needed to be replaced I had a 1/2 Tank of fuel and l always drive 60 and rarely 65 and made it home easy the gasoline tank was empty and was much ez
easier to bring down the gas tank and replace all the old gas lines.
I know this is an older post but I was having problems keeping my Generator running, I was just about to get "stuck-in" starting with all the usual checks. I decided to watch this video first and I had forgotten about ensuring the main RV gas tank was above 1/4 full. Off to the gas station, fill up the gas tank. Arrive home try the generator , Runs Perfect;y.
Just goes to show you Can teach and Old Dog new tricks. Thanks so much saving me hours of trouble shooting.
You're not the only one to forget that 😊
I had a similar problem with my Onan 2800. The fuel pump fails from either old gas sitting in it, or from the heat of the generator. After the second failure, I decided to mount the new fuel pump underneath my RV, and bypassed the old location with a hose. I also added a power cutoff switch for the fuel pump in the generator compartment. If I'm not going to run the genny for a while, I turn it on and then cut the power to the fuel pump and let the generator run all the gas that is left until it dies. Then I drain the carb with the screw under the bowl. So far this setup has been working well for more than 3 years.
Followed your advice and changed the fuel pump and filter today, took me exactly one hour. Was a bit of a challenge at first but if I had to do it again it would be a cinch to do. The generator has been starting quickly and works better than ever.
Thank you for this video, it really helped me out!
Your video was great. I followed the instructions and got the fuel pump and filter changed without too much difficulty. Unfortunately, after replacement, the generator was still starved for fuel. I actually could feel the pump working but no fuel was being delivered to the carb. I took it all down again, only to discover a frayed fuel line in a location between my generator cubby and the onan shroud. After replacing this fuel line, problem solved. Lesson: check the fuel lines too. Thanks for your content.
Hi Remi, I did the test as brian see a good flow of gas, but still wont keep running, can you let me know how did you loose the screw that holds the pump? i got out the rest but like you with a lot of work, I don't want to strip that last screw or I WILL BE SCREWED (lol) I have teh T30 bid but still hard to loose).
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Thank you for your work. You have inspired me to take on the fuel pump replacement project, and IM no mechanic. Your step by step and pointers are very helpful. Thanks again.
You can do it. Just take your time and put things back in the right spot :)
Tito, my generator stopped running the other day. I watched a really good video on changing out the fuel pump and had my hat all set to do just that. I always watch more than one video on whatever I'm going to repair and stumbled on yours. Went out to my R.V. and sure enough my fuel was take was just below 1/4. Took it out of storage, filled the tank, started the generator. It ran fine. Thank you for saving me the trouble of replacing my perfectly good fuel pump with a new one.
Awesome! Glad I saved you from the experience of replacing the fuel pump only to find that it still didn't start 😀
EXCELLENT Video.. I have a NEW RV Toy hauler - 20 Gallon gasoline tank and this is the problem I've had for 2 months now. It would run for about 20 minutes or so then start oscillating and then shut off. I initially saw 3 flashes then 6 flashes on the generator switch button, research showed me that it was a fule issue.
I have somewhat sound mechanical skills and understand how things work. Thinking NAW, it couldn't be a bad fuel pump this is a NEW RV. I took it back to the dealer for this and a few other issues before my 45 day adventure and supposedly they "Reset the generator back to factory specs." I ran it at the dealer for 30 minutes under full load. Bingo, I'm happy. So after 3 weeks at the dealer I get this back home happy as a lark until running this for 42 mins 12 seconds. It started oscillating again and shut off. OMG i'm livid.. Keep in mind that I haven't touch ANYTHING on this generator at this point, so now I'm wondering what needed to be reset back to factory specs.
With that said, I remove the inlet hose to the carb and I'm getting a nice stream of fuel out of the same hose you showed in your troubleshooting steps. Heck, I only have 12 hours on this generator so "logically" I thought it was sucking air from somewhere.
1. I cut the hose and put a short hose in a full 5 gallon gas can and clear see through fuel filter on the inlet side of the fuel pump and another hose into the carburetor inlet. It immediately filled the clear fuel filter and ran like a champ for well over an hour under full load. No problems. Put it back together and 20 minutes later it oscillated and shut down. All the rubber fuel lines were REALLY hot the way they have them routed. To me, I was SO sure it was a vapor lock of some sorts or 2, there was somewhere it was sucking air.
2. Rather than try to find out where this was sucking air, I isolated the OEM fuel line by buying and running a NEW 30ft fuel grade rubber hose 5/16 hose, some clamps and a see through fuel filter inline and it ran for a LONG time, well over an hour. NOW, I thought, there was an issue with the OEM fuel hose from the tank *in the back of the toy hauler*. Had my friend assist dropping the 20 gallon tank down to see things and low and behold, that the aluminum OEM nipple where the hose connected onto the 90 angle that screwed into the tank was cross threaded. ** by the way there was clear 5/16 solid rubber tube from the tank side of the nipple all the way to the bottom of the tank so that cleared up the theory of low fuel. ** Gas guage showed almost 1/2 full.
wow.. so, we replaced this nipple with a brass one, tested the line again and got good fuel flow.
AHH HA.. we thought we had it. It ran for over an hour on FULL Load without any issues. Then all of a sudden we saw that the clear fuel filter had been sucked dry and there wasn't hardly any fuel coming from the "TANK" side through the filter..
With that said, we put a volt meter on the solenoid under the fuel bowl and cranked the motor and I got 11.45 DC volts, EXACTLY what is expected and ZERO fuel flow.
So after watching your video as well as a few others I determined that it MUST be a faulting fuel pump. I know, it's still under warranty but when I called the dealership they asked me to bring in the RV again to diagnos it, get approval to replace the part, about a week to get the part then another 2 weeks to actually replace it and test it again.. Needless to say, this REALLY agitated me to no end.
So with that said, I just ordered a replacement fuel pump and filter on my own and it's expected to arrive in 2 days. I'll replace this and see if this fixes the problem (which I'm ALMOST sure it will). If it does, I know that the dealer will tell me to pack sand that I just voided the warranty but this RV and other things has been planned for a 14,000 mile motorcycle trip for 2 years and I can't deter this trip any longer. Time is of the essence..
I want to thank you for sharing your video, it inspired me to just buy the damn fuel pump..
Jerry
+DreamRider 1957 What an ordeal. So what is the verdict? I'm curious how this story ends :)
Last night was the final test.. Woot, working like a champ.
So, we believe it was a 2 fold problem.
(Disconnected the battery)
1. We put a laser thermometer on the fuel line. The fuel line 1/2 way down the Toy Hauler was at a temp around 85 degrees.
** The way the hose was routed by the MFG had this fuel hose routed through a thin sheet metal deflective shield up through a hold into the generator housing where it connected to the inlet side of the fuel filter. **
2. As I worked my way up the fuel line with the thermometer the closer I got to the sheet metal deflective shield the temp rose to 125 - 135 degrees and all the way to the clear in-line fuel filter I installed on my original post. Past this filter to the carb it stayed a steady 115 degrees. I could CLEARLY see air frothing/ bubbling into this clear filter. Once this generator warmed up it would oscillate then shut off. We would let this cool to around 100 or so degrees we would have to prime the carb and them it would start up again for a short while then shut down again. Rinse and repeat. By now, there wasn't even any clicking by the fuel pump to prime the carb.
** I know, long winded..
I received the pump and the in-line fuel filter. Your video was spot on. For my situation I had to undo the 4 bolts that secured the generator in the Toy Hauler generator compartment floor, and pry/put a wedge between the floor of the compartment and the outer housing in order to raise the generator to get to the 2, T30 screws. Once I got the screws out, like your video indicated, I could rotate the main board out, removed the negative terminal from the solenoid and unscrewed the 1, T30 screw holding that on. Once I got those out of the way a trick that worked for me was to take the hose off of the carb and feed that through the plastic tubing that protected the fuel hose going towards the fuel pump for about 4 or 5 inches.
For me, the pump/fuel filter hose had 1, T30 screw like the others, I removed that and since I previously cut the fuel hose and installed that clear in-line fuel filter it was a breeze to cut that ear clamp holding the fuel hose on the carb and then wiggle the OEM pump/fuel filter out of the generator box.
I assembled the new pump/fuel filter outside the box using some good Teflon tape then reversed this assembly process as you've described in your video.
3. (I didn't have to but I did anyway since I already had things cut/measured already working)
I replaced the entire length of fuel line from new 90 degree nipple adapter we replaced in the original post from tank in the back of the Toy Hauler to carb this time using the same routing clamps as OEM until I got to the place where all the heat started.. re-routed that part to a cooler part of the frame and then ensured I put all the clamps in the right spot and tighten things down. No need to put that shield back in place.
** Primed the carb, fuel flowed through the clear in-line filter and she started right up. BAM. Before you know it the clear in-line filter was full of fuel, no air-bubbles. Turned on the A/C to put a load on it. Gen was steady as a rock. We sat back on our lawn chairs for about 2 hours drank a couple of brews, high fived each other a few times staring / hoping it would just run.
** NOTE: The original OEM fuel pump - You couldn't even blow air through it in either direction. heh.. when you shook it back and forth, it made a weird sucking noise. I assume that the heat from the hot fuel probably burnt up the rubber diaphragm in it.
Yesterday, I got off work, opened the door to the RV like we're boondockin.. pressed the primer switch for a few seconds and BAM, started VERY fast. I ran it on full load for over an hour.. no hiccups.
So, anyway, long story short.. Buy the damn pump.. Thanks RVwithTito.
DreamRider too long; didn’t read. Replace the fuel pump? That solved your problem?
Great video, and yes, it worked. I had just the problem you described. Generator ran fine for about 20-30 minutes then stopped. Fuel was not getting through. Ordered the parts, followed your video, and it runs perfectly now. Thanks Tito!
Excellent!
Excellent troubleshooting, suggestions, and cautions. Your video definitely gave me some insight into the dying fuel pump problem and led to a relatively simple repair. Saved some money and made Momma happy in the process. Win-win. Guys like you help guys like me look like heroes! Keep up the great work.
I know that this is an old video, but wanted to add a couple of suggestions to your excellent video.
Removing the fuel line and running the pump is the definitive test, but as a preliminary test if you don’t want gas to be pumped into a bucket, you can just hold the button in the down direction and listening for the clicking of the pump as it primes. When it is pumping it clicks. When it doesn’t click it isn’t pumping. If it isn’t clicking then you can remove the fuel line to look for gas.
One other tip for those living in California is that a replacement fuel pump cannot be shipped into California. The crazy reason seems to be that it contains chromium. On the other hand this can be purchased at a lower cost on eBay and with free shipping.
Thanks for the tips! Very helpful.
Thank you. 5 years after you made this you helped me immensely!
Very Good Video, I would also add a inline fuel filter under the vehicle before the fuel pump and filter, it will protect the pump and keep the hard to reach filter clean, they are easy to install, cheap to replace and good insurance.........
Could you recommend me a specific one? I’m planning on doing this job soon and am not too familiar with which inline filter you’ve mentioned. I have an Onan 4000.
As a generator tech i see people add fuel filters all the time. Not a good idea. It creates more restriction on the vacuum side (before pump) and makes the pump work too hard and overheat windings in pump or blows the diaphram. Just use onans stock filter. Easier to replace that filter than pumps every 100 hrs. Also i recommend the stock oem onan pump. The airtex is slightly higher psi and while it will work and is half the price. Onan has dpecifically used a low psi pump to prevent tbe fuel bowl on carb from over pressuring the float valve and having fuel come back out the carb. Many of the cheap ebay and amazon pumps can be 3x as much pressure and this can and will cause a fire. I have yet to see that with an airtex pump and used them quite often when i first started gen repair but we did some testing in class and it was about 4psi for airtex and 2.5 for onan and the leak point of new carbs was 4-6 psi and old carbs was 3-5 so veryy close to leak point. Just my advice but i have realized oem parts are the only way to go for onans. Even air filters were suprisingly important...oem are fireproof aftermarket are not. A little back flow of fuel on them and poof. Rv burns down.
Dont go with cheap parts on a 3000 dollar generator. They have to run exactly right or it ruins expensive parts and can cause fires. Whatever u do ONLY USE ONAN OEM CARBS these knock offs dont work leak fuel everywhere and run tbe gen at the wrong rpm and mixture ruining your genset. Ive warned you so make your own decision. Happy rving
Trailer is a 2008 toy hauler with a fuel station. My Onan 4KY would run 10-20 minutes and starve out of fuel. Drained and flushed fuel tank, needed a new fill neck hose. Still died after running a short time. Was going to take it to a service shop, but saw on your video that it looked pretty easy. Ordered a new fuel pump, fuel filter and air cleaner through Amazon. It was fairly easy to take out and replace, but a bit difficult to get the circuit board and related stuff back in. Note: I have a long run of 30 feet of fuel line from the tank to the generator and needed to put a manual pump on the line to get fuel up to the new pump as I replaced a good part of the fuel line as well and the electric pump could not draw the fuel through the long empty line.. Also the circuit breaker on the generator itself popped and I was getting no juice after I got it running. Remembered seeing another TH-cam piece about the breaker on the side on the unit and reset it to success. Lastly you do not need to crank the motor to check the fuel pump. Just press and hold the PRIME function on the start switch and the fuel pump will run if okay, or not if bad.
Thank you very much. My Onan 5500 wouldn't start and I suspected it was the fuel pump. Your video was perfect in showing me how to verify it.
Awesome! Good to hear the test worked on a 5500 too. Cheers!
Thanks David Alexander for the great tip! I totally forgot that the stop button also doubles as a prime button. That is certainly a better way to do it.
Mine also. Not sure where it can possibly come from unless I replace the entire line from the tank to the filter. The pump starts clicking (I assume this means it's got air in there)
Is the stop button on the unit itself? I have an on/ off toggle switch on Dashboard. Is that what you mean?
I love your stuff. I got in a pinch today and mine wasn't pumping. You can actually tap it the pump with a wrench, not too hard and you are back in business. That tip came from Cummins. I tried it and it worked.
Nice of you to make this video. Not many how-to's on fuel filter change for Gennys.
It was well done - detailed, talked us through the process, showed the parts, very much appreciated, many thanks!!
Lass-in Angeles I'm always glad to share what I've learned in hope of helping someone else out. Thanks so much for the feedback. It too is much appreciated!
Had a surging problem, was about to do your fuel test and noticed the hose clamp was very loose. Tightened it, problem solved! Thanks
Great video, I have long suffered the same problem with my Onan Marquis 5500 and had tried this same test but ruled out the fuel pump because there was a steady stream of fuel. However, I just came to the conclusion last night that it is in fact an intermittent fuel pump. An even simpler and more definitive test that I used...Run the generator until it dies, place a container under the carb and crack the float bowl drain screw (has a spring on it, located just below the altitude compensator knob on the float bowl). If you get just a drip of fuel and then nothing, you have a fuel supply issue....likely your fuel pump. If you get more than a drip (about a cup) of fuel out, it's probably not your fuel pump. If the float bowl was dry, leaving the drain screw open, hold the stop button down > 3 secs (prime), if the pump is working and there are no obstructions you would normally get fuel running out the float bowl drain but if your float bowl was dry in the previous step, you will likely get nothing demonstrating that your pump is either not working or not getting fuel. Wait 10 minutes (just as you found your gen would restart after 5-10 min of down time) then with the float bowl drain still open, hold down the stop button again > 3 secs (prime) to operate the fuel pump. You will likely hear the pump chugging and you should also get fuel running out of the float bowl drain. This will rule out a tank, line, or filter issue. To rule out a possible controller issue, in that 5-10 minute period when the pump isn't working, disconnect the pump wires and verify that the wires to the fuel pump have power. While holding the stop button (prime) check for voltage at the connector on the white wire (on the controller side) then test for resistance to ground on the black wire (again on the controller side), it should be near zero. If all is good there, then you know the pump is getting power and hopefully feel confident about dropping CDN$160 on a new pump. Don't forget to close the drain screw.
Frostbbitten Thanks for the great tips! I hope a new pump fixes your issue.
Are you available to elaborate more on this? Please DM me or contact me in some fashion. Would be glad to compensate you. I am trying to confirm my new fuel pump is not bad. Brand new Onan pump...but now not getting any fuel.
Good tips for good maintenance in generators
My Onan had a dieing problem much like you described here. I changed the air filter and and that fixed my issue.
Related problem: My sisters class-C ran a long rubber fuel line from top of tank up to the generator fuel pump. Mice had chewed holes in the fuel line back by the tank so generator would start but start sucking air and stall.
I found that by hooking up a temporary 1/4 piece of fuel line from fuel pump (under generator) and into a full gas can. Ran flawless so ran a new fuel line back to tank. Thanks for your video.
I love your diy’s ..... their very easy to follow and well described....a home run! One addition to your check the gas tank gauge suggestion...while doing this make sure that the vehicle is level .... i learned this the hard way ....as soon as i leveled the coach all was o.k. and the generator ran as it should...
Great point. Thanks for the tip and awesome feedback.
Thank you!! for you suggestion of low gas in main tank. Filled up tank and generator is all happy again.
Thanks for the suggestions you have contributed here.
I have this problem now and am giving this a shot. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for this video!! Been having the same issue for a few years and thought it was the fuel line too. Great vid!!!
lwoodard2009 Thanks for the comment. I hope you're able to get it fixed now :)
Excellent advise. First time I've heard about fuel level impact to the generator. Thanks
this looks much easier than anticipated. thanks
.
thank you Tito for your video on how to fix a generator I did what you said on mine cuz I was having issues with it and I was able to get it running and started so thanks for all your help in making this video
Thankyou Brian for once again providing insight into a solution for a perplexing problem that obviously many of us have experienced. I'm assuming what we see on the video is a re-creation of the steps that finally led to the discovery of what this fault was with your fuel pump :
It cuts off but only when it reaches a temperature it doesn't like, but after a cool down period, it will work again until the temp rises again.
I too got fuel running through the initial "disconnected tube into the bucket" when the pump was in it's "cool" state. What I didn't realize until later was that I needed to re-run the tube/bucket test just after the genset shuts down after running fine for several minutes. Re-test results: no fuel flow! Let system cool for a couple hours (for me anyway as I live in Phoenix) then I re-ran the tube/bucket test again and the fuel was flowing. The Genset started right up but quit after a few minutes (as I expected it would after re-heating).
You may want to edit the video (the typed popup verbiage?) for future viewers to see and comprehend the whole procedure and what the pump is doing under different conditions.
To the viewers who are going to do these tests :
Make sure nothing distracts you while you you have the fuel line disconnected and feeding a catch receptacle and activating the stop/prime/start button, especially once the genset and exhaust pipes, etc are HOT.
Take safety precautions - no loved ones (inquisitive pets included) near, position yourself for quick retreat, possibly have fire extinguisher ready, possibly an observer to call 911 if an emergency occurs that has your focus.
And viewers - it's possible that any complex "system" can be affected by more than one piece of the system.
Thank you! This helped me diagnose what I believe is the problem with my generator not starting. Should know more in a couple of days once the fuel filter and pump come in from Amazon.
Thanks for this. I was changing my fuel pump out , and lost track of where one of the wires went that could have easily gone to either ground or v+ .. was able to see the connection at 8:13 in your video.
Awesome. Glad it helped you figure it out 👍
Brian, Thank you again for your wonderful guidance. Not sure if I shared it, but I was having issues with my gen set and had forgotten the filter maintenance intervals which likely caused issues with my pump. I first replaced the filter and same symptoms persisted. So I had to endeavor to replace the fuel pump as you did. What do you know, it works like new now. Your video was a big part of my courage to take on the task.
Glad I could help!
Thanks! I'm having generator issues now, so I'll check the fuel line thing first.
Thanks used this test after watching video. I'm still getting a crank no start, but at least I know now that its getting fuel and not a fuel pump issue.
Glad it was useful. Hope you get it figured out.
Thanks so much, love your channel. I just bought my first Four Winds (used) so I am really learning from you.
Just a quick tip, you dont need to crank the engine at all just hold down the prime/stop and it will pump fuel to test the pump
Testing the fuel pump while its "cold" is not a means of diagnosing this issue. The fuel pump overheats after 15-30 mins of running the generator and it fails to pump fuel, and then the generator quits. If you let the pump cool (ie, let the generator rest for a bit), the pump may work for a little bit again because its cooled down enough to start pumping fuel again. The outside temperature also contributes to the problem. My fuel pump is failing but it still runs fine if the outside temp is 80F or below. Over 90F, it fails.
@@gormanthomas8135 so please explain the proper procedure to test a cold fuel pump. Thanks for any help
@@blakethesnake1555 The only way I know to test the fuel pump is to take it from cold to hot by running the generator. mine is in an enclosed exterior compartment on my toy hauler so it’s easy to get it heated up. Additionally, I think the fuel pump itself gets heated up just from pumping the fuel. Are you experiencing the same symptoms I did with engine shut down?
I had a fuel pump that passed this test. I tried everything so I took it to a specialist. The fuel pump was bad and had to be replaced! It ran great after that!
Thanks for your excellent video and for this valuable info. We are newbies to motorhoming and are learning all we can from all the great Utube videos. We bought a 98 Bounder to start with. We love it so far, but we are troubleshooting our Onan 4000 Genset right now. Our problem is the same as you describe. It ran perfectly for one month then started to shut off after a few minutes or even up to 30 minutes with a load on it. Several tech guys have checked it and each has had a different idea of what's wrong. The latest one says that there is a safety switch which protects the gen from overheating by turning it off in the case that it does overheat. That switch commonly wears out with time and prevents the gen from running. He says that he will find that switch and disconnect it see if he problem dissappears. He is so busy that he can't see our rv for a week. I would like to do this test myself. Do you know what switch he's talking about and how to locate it?
+Linda Lambert Sorry Linda. I'm not familiar with the over temp switch your tech is referring to. The 4000 model may not have one. I know some Onan generators do have them. I'm not a tech, so take that into account. I did take a look at my Onan 4000 Maintenance Manual for you and it does not mention it. If you want to check out the manual for yourself, I uploaded it to my website here bit.ly/rvwt-onan-manual. You may want to download it and keep it for future reference. It's good to have. Check out the section on troubleshooting. Hope that helps. Good luck!
Thanks Tito, well done. It amazes me how someone can put a thumbs down on a video like this. It can only be from ill people within the same category. Thanks for your time, effort and information. Well put 👍👍
Thanks so much Jorge. Glad I earned your thumbs up :)
You can pull a code from a Onan generator by pressing the off button on the generator 3 times Quickly then a momentary pause, followed by one more press of the off button. This will flash a two digit code, just count the flashes. No fuel is usually a code 36. Three flashes followed by 6 flashes. You can look up the codes in your owners manual or online.
I'm going to try this. When mine shut off I thought I saw the red light flashing but I didn't know what I was looking for nor pay attention to how many times it flashed.
I just subscribed... I have a 7500 watt generator on my semi for my big sleeper... I been having troubles and im pretty sure my fuel pump isn't working good. I unhooked fuel line and it barely trickled... I even ran a line from pump to tanl to make sure it wasn't a supply line problem
Did it work?
@@RVwithTito i just got done doing fuel pump. I found a universal pump... And she wont start. I loosened priming screw, and tried to bleed system... She just wont fire
I had same symptoms, but I would never have thought it was the fuel pump. After watching this video several times and reading the comments, I ordered a fuel pump/filter from Amazon and replaced the original one. (Getting that bundle of wires back in place under the electrical control unit was the hardest part.) Cranked it a few seconds and it started and worked great!!!
No one has mentioned what actually failed in the fuel pump. Varnish? Electrical? I think I'll try to disassemble mine and see if I see anything suspicious...
So, I used a hacksaw to slice the fuel pump in half. Inside was an electrical solenoid -- a 3/8" brass tube with a hollow plunger inside, surrounded by coils of wire. When the pump sees 12V, it forces the plunger toward the discharge port -- pushing the gas out of the pump. At the end of the stroke, some kind of switch interrupts the 12V supply, allowing an internal spring to return the plunger to the initial position. During this return stroke, a check valve allows gas to enter the center of the plunger. At the "initial" position, the 12V is re-applied and the cycle is repeated.
The entire electrical portion of the pump is encapsulated in plastic, so it was impossible to look for breaks or shorts. The mechanical part consists of two check valves, two springs, and the plunger -- those all looked OK.
My conclusion is that something failed in the "switch" that interrupts the power at the end of the discharge stroke.
Maybe someone can figure out that part?
Cool. Very interesting peek inside. Too bad there wasn't something obviously burnt or broken.
Thank you very much, your video was helpful, just one thing..... more details!!.... thanks and hugs
Thanks for the tip, our generator is shutting down as well. Will definitely test this out :)
Also check your oil level. Newer Onan's are set to shut down or not start with low oil.
Thanks Brian
You're welcome!
I believe the reason the 1/4 full tank need is safety in addition to the dip tube (pickup tube) being only so long. In addition to being on your dash(fuel level) it leaves enough gas to get to a gas station in emergency situations (you need your RV moving more than that air conditioner).
Hope that helps clear some things up.
Soon to be a fulltimer coming next year, doing as much research on everything to do with RV and maintenance I can do myself in certain instances, I was a firefighter for 17 yrs so I know understand the importance of checking all your equipment on the rig before, during and after so these are the kind of videos I really enjoy. Kinda have only one itty bitty thing.....when you make your videos can you leave out the music, I find it a bit distracting and would rather listen to what you are explaining. Thanks for al the great info.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks
Thanks for your informative video, it was a big help.
Great tip, thank you. I will be tackling mine this weekend...
Thanks David!
I just found this other tip on no start or stops after 40 minutes with a Onan.
It turns out the oil dipstick should have been recalled on many Onan generators with any age on it!
The marking are way to high and we have been overfilling our Onan and causing a lot of different types of damage to them then get to pay Cummins a ton of money for a temp fix!
I haven't had a generator stop yet but I'm going down to Cummings (an old friend works there) and check with him and hopefully can give more information on it.
Whats funny is I'll do my service this weekend and I mean it is OVER the 2000 hour service interval but it has only burned maybe 1/2 inch of oil on the stick and I have never had a shutdown except when the gas got low. Air filter is absolutely fine and only needs to be blown out and the gas filter I'll find out when it comes off but this unit has not failed me yet in the 3 years we have had this Minnie. But it's a Cummins and as a trucker I know how good Cummins are!
BUT the pump check is a good tip for when it gets quiet on the right!
Blue Sky's and Safe Journeys!
th-cam.com/video/vzXDlln8aUw/w-d-xo.html
UPDATE:
I called Cummings Tech Department and they said the stick is good and they never heard of this problem.
This is going to be very interesting as I'm heading out with a little 100w panel until I get the 300w I want and put together a new idea all RVers will want on under their solar panels so I'll be using the generator a lot more now.
It's also a good idea to throw in new fuel lines while your in there as they can cause a problem from age. I'm about to tackle installing a new magneto in my Onan 4ky to get it to run longer than 5 minutes.
Thank you
You're welcome
Super helpful thanks you so much
You're very welcome!
Thanks man I appreciate you taking the time....it is my fule pump ...jbrumett
Glad it helped!
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF....
"I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR"
It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person.
I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!!
Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!!
For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel).
Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed.
Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!!
After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV.
Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!!
I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared.
If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
Great tutorial video!
Thank you for the hard work on your channel my bud and see you soon.
A very good video, but it is much more challenging than he makes it look. ***Very Important, use your phone to take pictures of it as you go along to assist you in reconnecting the wirings!
Thanks. I'm not sure what is wrong with my Onan 4000. I do a monthly 30 minute run. The generator seems to run as long as the Starter button is pressed. I have changed the air filter and spark plug. Made sure there is a spark when cranking. Took it out and held it close to metal and had a good spark. Took the fuel line off the carb and have good fuel flow. Yes the 75 gallon tank is full. I run seafoam in my fuel to counteract the dreaded Gasohol. I do not have many hours on the generator. I found you in thinking I may need to replace the filter and or fuel pump. Today I held the starter while running to get the error code 32. LOW CRANKING SPEED SENSE - FAULT CODE 32....
A. Vapor lock may occur in high ambient temperatures: operate in ambients at less than 120°F; verify
proper installation to prevent air recirculation; correct as necessary.
B. Measure steady DC voltage at fuel pump while genset is cranking: repair wiring as necessary.
C. Try to start genset on shop fuel supply: verify tank level and fuel line condition in vehicle.
D. Verify carburetor altitude setting: readjust as necessary.
E. Verify choke operation, setting and linkage damage: readjust, repair or replace as necessary.
F. Measure fuel pump pressure/flow: replace fuel filter or pump as necessary.
G. Inspect carburetor butterfly for binding: replace carburetor as necessary.
bubbajeph It may not be carb related. It could be a wiring issue or something else. I've heard stories of mice chewing up generator wires. Maybe this will help. I pulled this out of the Onan Service Manual. PROBLEM: Engine starts but stops when switch is released
POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Low Oil Level (Action: Check oil level and add oil if low)
2. Defective low oil level switch (Action: Disconnect low oil level switch and check set operation. Replace if defective)
3. NO field flash voltage due to
(a) Open circuit in wiring (Action: Check wiring continuity to the brush block F1-F2, voltage regulator VR1, control assembly A1 and generator B1-B2 and Q-1-Q2 windings. Check connections of P5 and P6 connectors on the generator housing)
(b) Brushes not making good contact with slip rings (Action: Check brushes for wear and for contact with the slip rings)
(c) Slip ring surface is rough or pitted (Action: Check slip rings)
4. Defective generator, control assembly A1, or voltage regulator VR1 (Action: Perform field voltage test)
Excellent. Thanks!
Good video, but it would be so much better if all video's, not only yours, were made "actually performing" the work, not describing what was done after the work has been completed.
Thank you. Your a big help
Thanks! Great video and very helpful!
The safest way to test the fuel pump is to hold it in the "STOP" position. After 10 seconds it sends a signal to start the fuel pump and prime the carburetor. No need to introduce a spark from cranking an engine.
Thanks, great video. Question: does the fuel pump make a clicking noise as it pumps or is it silent?
Great tip Tito. Tanks!
Thanks, this helped me a lot.
Great! You're welcome.
Thank you for the video. My generator is giving me the over crank code. How can I fix this?
This was a very good video. I am experiencing nearly the same symtoms you described and I have the same generator. Fires up just fine when it's cold, but I add a load to it like the microwave or AC and it will only run for about 90 seconds and then shut down. Once this happens, it's not as easy to start back up (yes I turn off all loads inside before trying again). You have to prime it to hell to get it to fire, and sometimes it doesn't even fire up. I did your check in the video. Fuel streams out when I start it, and it slowly comes out when I prime it. So, this means the pump and filter are not bad, but something else with the EXACT same shut off. Any other ideas? New oil, and it's full, new air filter and spark plug. I'm baffled here... Thanks.
Oh hey Eric. Hmmm. I'm just wingin it like you. You could try and play with the governor adjustment screw to see if that has any affect. That's what regulates it under load. Normally, you don't have to touch it. Other than that, my research has shown that it's usually the carb that gets mucked up. I think the intake at the bottom of the bowl is what typically gets clogged. Some have cleaned it, many say don't bother and get a new carb. I don't know if that's the problem. My generator isn't working at 100% now either and only puts out around 1300 watts. So no AC. My plan is to attack the carb with some brake cleaner. If that doesn't work, then I'll replace it (about $350 for a new one). I rarely use my gen anyway, but I know you've got to keep Jax cool. I have a PDF copy of the maintenance manual that I'll email you when I get home. There's a troubleshooting section in there that may help.
Oh hey. I found the service manual on my website. Here's the link: www.rvwithtito.com/download/Onan4000MaintenanceManual.pdf
Buy a length of fuel line and run it from the backside of the pump/filter assembly into a gas can. If the generator runs fine with this setup, you've narrowed the problem down to the fuel line.
Another clue that the fuel line has a leak somewhere is that the generator will run better with more fuel in the tank than it will with less than 1/2. Of course, it won't run at all with less than 1/4 by design.
Easy fix it looks like
Too much oil overheats, they put in the wrong too short dipstick. It was an Onan bulletin.
Put enough oil to just touch the tip of the dipstick and then it should run fine forever in the heat . Be sure to cut out vents on roof units.
We ran into almost the exact same problem with the same generator. May I suggest putting the start switch into the "prime mode"? It accomplishes the same thing without putting the wear on your starter. In fact, if you activate the prime function and don't hear the pump running you know you have an issue with the pump. This would potentially eliminate the need for disconnecting the fuel line and needing the bucket. Thanks for the videos.
Hi David, do you have a video of this? which one is the start switch?
David, I got it , i thought it was something different.
David, so the pump makes a sound? how can i check this?
@@jpmktgraphics James, The generator should have a three position switch on the generator itself. It rests in neutral and pressing the switch in one direction "primes the carb" and the other position engages the starter. When you push and hold the switch into the prime position it should activate the fuel pump. If it is working properly, you will hear it pulsing or pumping the fuel. Also be aware that on this model generator Onan in effect hid the fuel filter on the back side and under the generator as the fuel line comes into the generator.
@@davidwilmot6789, Hi David, the generator starts and shuts off, has a good stream as the test by Brian, I'll pay attention to the sond, but if I have flow wouldn't that mean that it works? plus in one moment it stayed for a few seconds ON, and yes the fuel filter is in the bottom left and i went under and it's almost hidden between the generator and the way to the fuel hose, is similar to the video but harder to reach, also I havent been able to loose the screw that holds the fuel pump, i don't want to strip the screw, do you have an i dea how else I can loose this screw? thanks for all your help!
Brian I have come to the conclusion that Onan generators are junk. In September 2021, I bought a 2022 Entegra Vision and the Onan 5500 would run for about 8 minutes when under a load of 2 a/c. I took it to Cummings in San Leandro Ca, and they replaced the fuel pump. Now once again it's having the same problem and I have an appointment at Cummings again on March 15 2022. I hope they can fix it for good this time.
It all started when I turned the A/C off when we got back from a trip. Now the gen runs for about 10 to 20 seconds and cuts off. On the starter control, It's giving me 3 blinks. I press stop and it gives me 1 blink with a pause followed by 4 blinks. Not sure if that would be considered a 35 code. I am totally lost on it. I will say this video is awesome though. I will try everything mentioned before taking it to Texas RV here in San Antonio. I had rather shell out a few bucks instead of a few thousand.....LOL
Hope that fixes it. Good luck.
Can you turn the battery switch off to kill the power? Thanks good video
Hey Brian, I love watching your video. I have been trying to figure out what you do for a living because you have some mad skills and really nice Snap On tools LOL. - I have a very similar class C as yours. It’s an 04 29V and I think I have tripped the manual breaker. You didn’t happen to have reason to find the one on yours did you? I’m really perplexed and any input would be greatly appreciated. That includes any other viewer who might know. Much appreciated and thanks again for making all your great videos.
Love the detail in these videos!! Thank you. I have noticed that the Fuel Filter does not screw into the fuel pump completely. It looks like there is still 1/4" of the fuel filter thread still showing. So this is ok, correct Brian?
Good Job thanks we have this issue now so I will be following your tutorial :0)
Do you have a video on generator maintenance, such as oil change, fuel filter change, air filter, etc?
Here's one covering the oil change th-cam.com/video/9kdEUXoYdfU/w-d-xo.html
Awesome channel. It's cool that you've learned to fix so many things on your own. We are planning to travel the US for a year and I'm sure your tips are going to come in handy! Or we'll find you on the road and have you fix ours ;) haha
I'm so glad you found my tiny corner of TH-cam. I will always be willing to lend a hand and offer my $.02. Safe travels!
It's all of our little corners that make up this big youtube machine! Keep up the good work!
Question: right where the start switch is I get 3 blinking red light it is for service. My question is do the 3 blinking light go away when you do an oil change or how does it go away
When I test, I hold it in stop position cause it's also prime and runs the pump...
Thanks good info.
Watched this and loved it but having problem removing the control board. Any hints on that other than removing the screws shown. Thanks
It's been a while, but I think you need to remove everything around it first including the terminal post on the left where the DC comes in.
Steve Christo I replaced my controller with a flight systems control board. Love it! No more failures based upon 35 some odd Onan codes! The only way it will die now is if it loses air, fuel or spark.
Steve Christo I replaced my controller with a flight systems control board. Love it! No more failures based upon 35 some odd Onan codes! The only way it will die now is if it loses air, fuel or spark.
Thank so much that is a good job , I loved
Great Video!
Great help! Well I found out my Fuel pump is bad, thank you. I'm going to order the pump and filter, I do not see the link you said you shared for the parts on Amazon...?
Looks like the one I got is no longer available. If you click the link in the description then look at the "Similar Items" you'll find a comparable unit. Just make sure the fittings on either end are the same.
@@RVwithTito Thanks, found the whole tune up kit for the cummins 4KY-26100R www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07884TLCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@RVwithTito I would have liked you show us how to get to the fuel pump in more detail, LOL. There seems to be some hidden screws. I got the solenoid out but that panel underneath not to sure about and even if I get that off seems a long ways to the pump. You didn't have to take the whole generator out?
I followed your instructions. Worked great! However my new pump is pushing air but no fuel is coming out. Any idea why I can't get it to pull fuel
It could also be that your oil level is over filled, depending on the position of your motorhome if it not level correctly. Just empty out one pint of oil. I had that experience.
mine was doing that run for abotu 10 min and die, restart run and die. it was the oil pressure safety switch....didnt even know it had one
excellent
Yep, the stop button is a prime button, and the carbs usually go 1st. from lack of use, get gummed up.. Non serviceable. nowadays.. . around 250-300 bucks for one and a pain to install..
Thanks for the informative video, Tito ! I followed your suggestions & put in a new fuel pump & filter, but my Onan STILL cuts out after 10 to 15 min of solid running (no surging). I checked the new fuel pump & it shoots out a steady stream. I'm embarrassed to admit I DIDNT check the old fuel pump for gas flow. That said, what do you suggest trying next for my 'cut out after 15 min' problem ?! Thanks!
Yeah but, when you saw you had fuel flow how did you come up that it was still your pump? I may have guessed that it was the filter. I see a filter getting clogged before I see a fuel pump malfunctioning on a newer RV. And I would have thought a clogged filter would have passed enough fuel for 10 minutes until the engine starved and then caught up once it stopped running. However you figured it out it was the right thing
I did the "flow test" after it shutdown at which point I did NOT have fuel flow (very little actually). Removing and replacing the filter is just as much effort as doing the fuel pump, so I just replaced them both. It's all good now. Thanks for the comment!
Is there a check valve in the line of a generator in a rv