Thank you so much for posting this series. My husband and I absolutely will be sitting down and studying every one. I don't think it's a stretch to suggest that your series could save lives. Unfortunately, most of us know just enough to be dangerous.
Refreshing to find such an informative series of videos on the yootoob made by someone who really knows what he is talking about. As a retired Professional Engineer I have a pretty sensitive BS filter and the needle did not even flicker once watching all these videos Thanks for all your hard work John ... much appreciated ! OG
@@johnmck1147 Hi again. One question if I may. Have you ever measured the speed of intake combustion air and exhaust gas at the same setting. I reckon the exhaust speed will be approx. double and am thinking about splitting the exhaust into two right after the port and making the two legs in say 38mm stainless. A wrapped copper coil on each leg to scavenge heat in a radiator & fan circuit. The two legs should reduce back pressure and reduce load on the fan, perhaps even increasing the rpm, if the pcb 'brain' allows it. Reduced speed should give a longer dwell time for heat transfer and of course the two pipes will give a big increase in area for the coils to contact. .... just a thought .. OG
No OG, I have measured intake speeds, but I would wreck my plastic instrument measuring exhaust speeds. Interesting your project. Please let me know how it goes. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Didn't think of that - always been used to brass bladed instruments from my mining days. No real problem, I'm reasonably certain I'm not far out with the figures, and its of no great importance to the project. it will either be an effective heat exchanger or it won't. I'll have to have a play about, perhaps inflate a large bag, measure the time to empty, feeding intake air and then compare time to fill from exhaust - that and a few calcs would give a ball park fig. Recovering from operation just now so may be a while getting round to it. Thanks for your interest .... OG
One of your biggest fans here! Thanks to you, I got over worrying about these heaters breaking down. Not any more. I have several of them now. One in my RV, which I live in most of the time, and one under it keeping my plumbing from freezing up. The one inside is connected to the original propane furnace duct work. It heats the whole place even at -20 F. To me, it's a comfort to hear the little pump ticking away. Kind thanks for all the great information and all the work you must've put into it. You have helped more people than you know. Greetings from Alaska.
Thank you so much, John. Your videos provide all the background to understand how these heaters work and why we need to do specific connections. It’s the glue that holds all of this together for me. Social media has so many posts with incorrect information by self-proclaimed experts. You provide the details to support the decisions you make. Thank you from Massachusetts, USA.
This is worth mentioning to anyone who is planning a new install. I have watched each episode and I recall in one you rightly mention the heater can be installed at 90 degrees as long as the plug is at the top. Due to the configuration of my van, that is how I had to install it, and it does work. When I originally had problems, the Chinese seller had said I needed to install it upright only. I pointed out that the instructions indicated you could install it at 90 degrees, so the seller ended up sending me another unit. Although my new heater would work, for 2 years I have had numerous problems with this angle. This week it stopped working again. Symptoms: white smoke coming from the exhaust, but no ignition. Finally I removed the unit and when I turned it so the ports were facing down, diesel fuel poured out of the air intake and the exhaust ports. I forced air through it using a blower and put it back. I ran a couple of cycles, same white smoke, took it out, and more fuel poured out of it. I then installed my original unit, and it fired up. So the take-away lesson is, although the unit will work if turned to 90 degrees, I think you'll have more consistent luck if you install it so the ports are on the bottom. That way at least, if you don't get ignition and your chamber floods with excess fuel, the fuel will drain out the bottom instead of pooling because it is trapped in the combustion chamber. As for why the flooding in the first place, I noticed my fuel line may have been run in a way that perhaps it made fuel siphon past the pump and fill the chamber when the unit was switched off. So now I have placed a shutoff valve on the fuel line just in case it was a problem due to a siphon. Probably also worth mentioning that the Chinese exhaust line is good for about a year, and then it just disintegrates. I am going to replace it with silicon heater hose, which is what I already did for the air intake.
@@milcotto4153 I did not measure it at the vent, but did take the internal cabin temp of my Delica van when it was -25C outside. This 2Kw unit just managed to keep the inside of the van above freezing at +2C. As we sometimes may be AT skiing during the day when it is that cold, it's was good to know that we could leave water without it being frozen upon return.
Hi Randy, Thanks for your feedback. May I suggest you download the manuals for the German Eberspacher D4 heater. This is the heater the Chinese have copied, they even appear to have copied most of the manual. Most aspects of this German manual will apply to the Chinese heater EXCEPT for the controllers and the error codes, they are totally different. Eberspacher recommends a minimum of 200 mm and maximum of 2 m for both the intake and the exhaust. However I feel a 1 m maximum is far more efficient. The issue here is the air heater combustion chamber. It is a sealed chamber and ventilated by a very small enclosed fan. This fan spins up to about 4,000 rpm to suck in combustion air and expel exhaust gases, compare that to a diesel engine turbo that spins at around 200,000 rpm. If you restrict either the intake air or create back pressure in the exhaust you can not get efficient combustion. My suggestion, is if you must exceed 1 m of either you consider going bigger. I would suggest you install a larger diameter inlet hose and a larger exhaust pipe. However you must do your own research. You must also keep the bends to a minimum on both the inlet and the exhaust. Eberspacher lists the max of combined bends on inlet or exhaust to be no greater than 270 deg. From experience I find that excessive, particularly if using the standard diameter piping, and particularly at the max stated length of 2 m. All bends cause restrictions, so I suggest you make your pipe runs as straight as possible. I hope this helps, John
After watching several videos from other creators and only being half way through this one, I know that I will be learning more from this professional man then anything else out there.
Hi John, I’ve now watched all of your videos... great work! These are amazing, and I’ve learned so much. You’ve personally saved me, and many others, from making some big mistakes in their installation of their diesel heaters. I just want to say thank you for the hard work you’ve put into making these, and sharing all the knowledge you’ve picked up over the years.
John, huge thank you for sharing your wonderful knowledge & experience in such a clear & kind manner! You are a beautiful example of a generous human spirit that enlightens all of us with a curious mind!!
Total newbie here and diving into your knowledge. Got into a converted ambulance and aside from a plethora of engine, etc. issues, I can’t get warm, despite discovering that there is one of these things on board. I’m moving this to the ‘now’ thing to address and am so relieved to find something that even I may understand (coming from a bookkeeper/SAHM). THANK YOU so very much.
Thanks John. Have just watched your entire series. Ultra informative and I feel confident to tackle an install. I’ll raise a toast to you for every comfortable winter camping trip from here on!
This is a very thorough and excellent series about these heaters, I learned everything I need to know and I can now make an informed decision on what to buy and how to install it. And the best part: It has no bloody music playing!!! THANK YOU John!
Hi John. You have taught me everything on these heaters, you're probably the worlds No.1 expert. I run two in tandem at my home and a third on standby that is serviced ready to swap out. I've set things up so I can do a swap in about 5 minutes so I've refined the process. You taught me about everything but specifically the existence hidden stainless gauze in the burner that alluded me for quite a while, found there was some deterioration in the heaters performance that puzzled me until I saw one of your videos. I found that instead of burning it out, I soak it in oven cleaner for a couple of days, that usually pulls out most of the carbon. I also use a sonic cleaner bath but that might be beyond most people. I pull these apart every week as I use crap old fuel from boats so the carbon buildup is accelerated. I also run these 24 hours a day. Thanks for taking the time to post videos, they are excellent, thorough and easy to understand despite you being an Aussie. I can say that as I live with your poor cousins in NZ, the extension of Australia that some Americans believe is connected by the Sydney harbor bridge.
Hi Sean, thanks for the info and positive feedback. Say hi to the cousins, and tell them painting the coat hanger continues unabated. (Very few non Aussies will get that one)
🤗 Thank you John for your great introduction part 1. We have just bought a 2kw unit for only $118 delivered here near Portland Victoria.(May 2023) I only just found out about your series of videos, and have just seen this one, your 1st. Looking forward to reviewing all of your videos, and when it arrives installing the little one in our caravan 👍 Thanking you again, Ted & Rosie Nomads travelling Australia
Excellent series of videos on these heaters and in depth explanations with show and tell. You must have spent a fair bit of time preparing for this, so I really appreciate the time and effort you have invested in order to enlighten us about these. It certainly has eased my mind about installing one in my van. Thanks very much..
This is an huge complement to you John. Eberspächer found out the heater around 90y ago. I'll bet that long on next century people are still referring, "Oh you should look from Johns videos on how it works". Thank you for the whole series.
Hi John. I just purchased mine (the 8kW model that comes in a red case) and i'm very grateful that you've done this detailed series. Thanks very much for taking the time to record and share your testing, thoughts and views with the rest of us :) Liked and subbed pal.
I can not tell you how helpful this video was to me. I learned about some important nuances that I was unaware of to help maintain proper operation and maintenance. I do have a question about the exhaust and intake. What are the shortest and longest lengths that each can have for full efficiency. Thanx in advance for your response to this.
John your intelligent, knowledgeable and well thought out presentation makes your series the only place to go for real info and instruction on installing one of these heaters. i thank you very much for your help and i am finally about ready to tear up my cabin and install my 5k diesel heater for winter here in the sierras. So i am going to go through your series before i do. i hope this thing will heat our little 1,000 sf cabin or at the very least take the edge off the need for the wood stove. thanks for the help, you are much appreciated
Right off the beginning I heard your guineas crying, good to see a fellow farmer doing something other than farm videos. I plan on watching your whole 21 video playlist on Chinese heaters.
Hello John. Thanks for the energy you put into it. Really useful videos and as already written, the media is full of experts who clearly do not even know the basic principles. Thanks a lot. Btw, I'm in Leonidio Arkadias for about 5 months a year, so maybe we'll meet at Taverna To Apagio tou Kapetan Kosta in Tyros port... Tom
Thanks for the positive comments Tom. I am an Aussie, but as you probably know I have a sailboat in the Med and I try to spend a couple of months sailing over there each year, particularly the Greek islands. Cheers, JMcK
Hi John. Great idea however here in Canada we have ultra low sulphur diesel fuel and smokeless no sulphur kerosene. We tried your idea with a 50/50 mix and burned out 3 fuel pumps. This year we are going to a 90 diesel and 10 kerosene mix with 1/4 cup all season stanadyne per 40 litres. So far we have found that running it on high at least 10 minutes at least twice a day has been working for us so far.
Amazing video! I figured out almost everything but it's nice to got confirmations from you. Thank you! I got mine some days ago and it literally changed my live here in my cold and humid house.
Just planning my parking heater in my mitsubishi delica van, these are compact and keep you warm...... But how, why, which is the best way to go now......? Ahhh going through hours of YT videos and endlessly patrolling Google for the info - not any more because John Mck 47 is the TH-cam Google King of diesel heaters. Makes so much sense after getting mixed up with others botched ideas and installs. This is brilliant John and exactly what many of us need....... Real and detailed information, thank you so much for the time, effort and patience you put in to deliver to us the Holy grail of diesel parking night heater information. Came across video 8.......... Realised you where the one to watch and now I'm gonna go through video 1 to whatever number videos you have on them, cheers.
Attention xplorer What you are looking for is a 1.5mm nylon line. If you are having trouble finding it then you may need to go to a espar dealer for a line which is used for the D4 unit. I have gotten all of my parts from aliexpress because you are purchasing from the manufacturer. The only problem is the wait time on delivery. However you can't beat the price and the selection is huge.
Hey John, thanks so much for these videos. Has helped me immensely- not gonna pay $2k for a 2w when I can get a 5w for around $300-$400. Just gotta find an installer!
Sounds like you really need a good heater. These heaters give dry heat, and are so much better than propane heaters in that regard. Enjoy your adventures. J
John McK 47 hi john I live in a 32 foot camp trailer full time off grid. I been looking into these diesel heaters. I have a few questions 1..will the 8k heat a 32 foot trailer? 2..can I hook it up to my duct vents if I switch the vents to heater duct instead of AC?
Martyn Watson Hi Martyn, Disagree. Common propane heaters in homes and motorhomes are not ducted and DO give out large amounts of water vapour. I see you have never woken up to windows totally frosted and the ceiling dripping with condensation from propane heater use. Yes, if you have a fully ducted propane heater you do not get condensation. Dickson (Canada) make an excellent fully ducted propane marine heater that does not cause condensation issues. (I have one myself) But there are a huge number of un ducted propane heaters used in homes, sheds, caravans, cabins etc. Perhaps you should do a little more research yourself before flying off the handle. Perhaps you could start your reasearch by searching the generic and very popular "Buddy Heaters" Cheers. JMcK
After watching this first one I will definitely be watching the rest. Hopefully I can figure out what's going on with my two I just bought. Same error code on both so I am guessing it's my brand new battery.
Hi John. I am keeping in touch with you on the performance of the diesel heater. We are ending a cold snap which has lasted about a week. The overnight temperatures are as low as -34C with a wind chill of -46C. Tomorrow we will see a Chinook roll in and the temperatures will rise to the plus side of O degrees. The warmtoo 8kw heater has performed perfectly in these temperatures. I have been using straight diesel and we are running the unit on high many times a day. Just think winter is just starting.
Thank you very much. I never heard of these until I got an email from a Chinese exporter. I watched all of your videos and I have a legal pad full of notes and questions. You convinced me to mount the heater under the bed of a travel trailer, similar to your yacht. I an thinking of mounting a sturdy fuel tank on the tongue or under the frame, similar to your motorhome example. I am thinking about the feasibility of using copper tubing, vs. nylon, for the fuel supply, due to weather and road exposure. My primary concern is the proximity of the hot exhaust pipe where it passes under a "cut-out" the combustible floor (plywood and foam) to vent out below the chassis of the trailer. I fully intend to use "marine grade" clamps, fittings, and connectors and use "stand-offs" for the fuel pump, filter, fuel line, exhaust pipe, and combustion air intake. Thank you for taking the time to experiment and share your expertise with all of us who are attempting to learn and apply your guidance.
I’ve watched your whole series. Thank you soo much for all the work you have put into these videos. I am glad I found your series and would recommend anyone buying one of these subscribe to you and watch all of these videos. Super informative!!! Again thank you for all the hard work you’ve done. I feel a lot better about getting one of these and actually understanding how to install and work these units properly.
John , Quality RV LPG heaters such as my Atwood system work as a heat exchanger therefore moisture from combustion gas goes via the exhaust to the outside of the motorhome. To say they put 8 litres into the interior is incorrect and unfair to the manufactures and suppliers.Apart from this thank you for your videos I find very informative.
Hi Mr JBS, Yes, I agree, the Atwood and similar heat exchange heaters are good heaters, but there are a great many LPG heaters out there, particularly the portable type that put out so much water vapour that the windows in a caravan are soaking wet with condensation in a matter of hours. Thanks for your comments. JMcK
i got a 2kw for my small van even on .5kw there is plenty of heat but now i heard your tip on running full power for 15 mins to burn off the carbon i will do that , thanks so much. I think it is a Chinese Eberspacher copy as the glow plug is under the cover at the top.
I found the fuel pump slightly noisy so I fitted a eperspacher silent run fuel pump the difference is amazing and works perfectly well with my Chinese unit 👍🖖
These videos are excellent! Watching from Los Angeles, California. I am planning on buying one and installing in my Overlanding camping trailer with a roof top tent. My original plan was forced propane heat. I learned from your video about condensation/water vapor. Thank you! I also need to be able to heat water for showers and am planning on going with propane for that, since I will also have extension hoses for cooking. Thanks again John!
@@johnmck1147 I'm learning so much from this video series! One thing regarding your propane = condensation statement, is that some vented propane heaters also use a heat exchanger like these diesel heaters so the intake and exhaust go to the outside of the space being heated. It follows any condensation that occurs during the combustion process would also vent/drain to the outside, right? Now, a propane stove top (not vented), has the combustion process inside the space and would result in more moisture inside the space if I'm understanding this correctly...thoughts?
MiniMoggers Hi MM, you are correct. The heat exchanger type propane heaters vent the condensation outside, however there are many simple heaters on the market like the Buddy Heater that burn propane with a naked flame inside the accommodation area. Any burning of propane, space heater, gas stove, gas water heater etc produces large amounts of water vapour. The Chinese diesel heaters give off a dry heat, no water vapour. Cheers. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Thanks for confirming that for me. The key seems to be that vented diesel and propane systems deliver dry heat on the interior due to the heat exchanger and both will have condensation in their exhaust, hence the need for drain hole at the low point. I've thoroughly enjoyed your series and really appreciate your knowledge and effort. Thank you!
Thanks John. I recently purchased one of these and I haven't gotten around to bench testing it. I have an Espar in one van but I didn't want to spend the $ for the second van. Vary informational!
Hi John. On my last post I forgot to say that we have increased the hertz on our heater. The low is 1.5 and the high is 5. The heater is hotter especially on low and we think it is keeping the unit cleaner with a hotter burn. The fan speeds are 1680 on low and 4500 on high. I felt you would want to know even though you have nothing to use as a reference.
John, these Videos are really great! Great for anybody, who is really interested in what he is doing- and what he should do this run this heaters. Thanks for the trouble!
Thanks John. I have ordered a 2Kw for my little 28 foot boat. But the package never came and they sent me the money back. After watching your video I see that I should order a 5Kw I guess. Good video, I subscribe!
Hi Mike, 2kw heater will be fine for a 28 foot boat. Here is a supplier I bought my last 2 KW heater from to get you started. Look carefully at the dimensions as some suppliers sell a 5 KW heater branded as a 2 KW heater. www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-Air-Diesel-Heater-PLANAR-2KW-2000W-for-Motor-homes-Boats-Bus-Car-Truck-ee/323633205099?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 If you have the room, a 5 KW heater will really keep you snug. Regards, JMcK.
So the heater that has not really been working at all and pretty much new..... I took it apart there was lots of carbon....I cleaned with a small wire brush....with the compustion part off I blew into all the holes to remove any loose debris...I checked the breathing hole I checked and put in new screen. It ran to full heat for at least 1.5 hrs. 4 to 5 hrs later I woke up it was off. The next day I took screen out again and blew air in from bottom of fuel line... it was open. It ran to full heat maybe 15 minutes and shut off. Sometimes error code. O8 sometimes 10. Seldom no codes after shutting off. I'll send pictures. Thanks for your offer to help...
Hi John, 1000 thanks for your awesome videos - 100% helpfull. Can you see if this offer looks like it have the components you recommend or can you recommend another offer (EU). I will install in a 28 foot sailing boat as a replacement for the 40 year old 2KW Wallas and hope to reuse the heat distribution pipe - only one outlet in center of the cabin. The exhaust has to be replaced, as it is top-mounted with a cap when it is not in use.
Hi John. My friend has a problem that I have not encountered before. Might be a long texted here. New unit, intake and exhaust are clear. Startup works as normal. Once the units is at full power and starts winding down to a slow state, all is fine until the fan starts to spin slow and stays slow even when you call for more heat or pumps per second, which makes the unit very hot but never shuts down, and fan does not speed up. If you knock on the side of the unit the fan will speed up for a short time and then slow right down again. If you listen real close you can hear a pinging noise like a metal sound and not a plastic sounding ping. You will get an error of 06. I may have missed something here but lets carry on. This happened to the first unit he had. The motherboard may have gotten to hot. So he bought another unit. Changed everything to the new stuff. On the first run of the new unit, it is doing the exact same thing. So I thought it must be an installation issue. I loosened the bolts holding it to the floor, put a new motherboard in and it takes about 45 minutes and the same problem. Oh yes while the fan is turning very slow tuning up the pumps per second will not increase the fan speed and therefore will get to hot, because of all the diesel being pumped in and has not shut down because of over heating. He thinks it's a fan issue, but how can that be with two different units and very new at that as well. So there is no restriction in the tubes and they are not bent in a funny shape but short and straight. it's winter here and no bugs. I did see white smoke once and still the tubes were clear. It almost seems as if the motor shaft is sticking because when you knock on it the fan will speed up and slow again in a short time. But then again this is the second unit with the exact same problem. If you have any questions that you may have to help with diagnosis please ask away as we would like to obviously find the problem before buying a third and have the same problem. By the way I am a subscriber and have watched all your videos, and sent I don't know how many people to your channel for the wealth of information that you have here. Thank you John for sharing this knowledge.
Hi NV, First thanks for supporting my channel. Now to your issue. It is difficult without seeing first hand but here goes. 1. Did you bench test the heaters first? This is always a good idea as you remove instillation issues. 2. I assume you installed the second heater “complete” and not just swapped parts. 3. From what you describe you appear to have a fan scrape issue. I give basic reference to this in a couple of my videos. 4. With fan scrape the heater can work sometimes at a high heat setting where the fan gets full voltage, but at a low setting where the fan gets lower voltage to spin slower it does not have the power to overcome the scraping resistance. 5. It is unlikely, but possible you have heaters with a bad batch of fans, but first check for scraping. 6. With the heater not operating, move the fan with your finger and see if you can feel or hear any scraping. If so you need to fix that up. It is caused by a poor moulding of the casing, and the metal part of the heater is not held in place correctly. If this is the case, ask your supplier for a refund, if that is impossible you can fix the scraping issue by gluing in a bit of match stick in the support channel. 7. I would first try for a refund if you just bought the heater, not a replacement. It is likely the whole batch of heaters the supplier has are faulty. In that case you need another supplier. Thankfully it is not common, but I have had three heaters now with fan scraping issues bought from two different suppliers years apart. On close inspection the three “bad” heaters all came from the same manufacturer in China. If you are hands on it is not too difficult to modify the outer shell to stop the scraping, but something you do not want if you are a newbe. One of the suppliers I bought from was good to deal with but I told him I would not buy another heater unless he returned his stock of heaters and changed his supplier. But I think this rarely happens or is impossible for them to do, as it was not long before the guy with a bad batch of heaters disappeared from eBay. Please let me know how things go. Cheers. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Hi John. I thought I had better fill you in on our problem. The only thing we did not do was take the heater apart, because it was so new. But once I got it apart it was very sooted up with very wet with diesel soot. Cleaned it up and fingers crossed it seems to be working fine so far. thanks again for all your help. I appreciate it very much.
Hi John, 1/ The Trade Practices Act requires suppliers to work as claimed 2/ A vitriolic negative feedback might get a response from the supplier Good luck, Ian
Hi, John. First, Well Done. You did the world, no wait, the universe a favour. I have been watching videos on this product for just under 2 years and hence why I did not venture into purchasing one until I actually worked out and knew how they function, how are they supposed to be assembled and the salient points to know about their usual operation and maintenance requirements. Am based in Sydney and just want to avoid purchasing a dud, if that is at all possible? Could you identify a supplier on e-bay that has actually sent you an Eberspaecher type diesel heater that you were reasonably satisfied with and have actually assembled and run so far? Again, well done on imparting your knowledge and experience in this realm. Now that I have seen all your videos, I will start concentrating on those segments you talk about acquiring and adapting the right tools and how to maintain these heaters. I noticed you stopped producing videos of late. • AM I TO GATHER FROM THIS THAT YOU WILL NOT BE POSTING ANYMORE INFORMATION ABOUT THIS PRODUCT AND OTHER ASPECTS OF THE HEATER? I and I can guarantee you, the rest of the universal inhabitants of this galaxy, would love to see you actually strip a heater and clean that combustion chamber, narrate your tips on doing it and the other staff that you should have and already organised before attempting to do it. My elder brother was a motor mechanic and I would always sit there, help and watch him strip and rebuild many engines and the like and over the years I have been able to do so at a smaller scale with great enjoyment when I had the time to do so. I hope your health is well and either way I will and have highly recommended your TH-cam Channel.
Hi RM, First, thanks for the positive feedback. I can not recommend one particular supplier as to date I have not found one consistant supplier of these heaters. What they seem to do is buy a batch of heaters, and when they are sold they move on to some other product. I suggest you buy from a supplier with an Australian warehouse, and from one that accepts returns. Here are two current Australian suppliers to get you started in your search. www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-5KW-Diesel-Air-Heater-LCD-Switch-10L-Tank-For-Caravan-Truck-Boat-Trailer-/353079876936?hash=item5235335d48 www.ebay.com.au/itm/8KW-12V-Diesel-Air-Heater-Thermostat-15L-Tank-T-Pipe-2x-Vent-Caravan-Motorhome/402246898333?hash=item5da7c8929d:g:Wb8AAOSwHNhep9Nf Suggest you bench test your heater when it arrives so you have some recourse if any issues. Wait a few months, and the supplier may no longer be there. I have done a complete strip down video. Perhaps you missed that one. I had intended not to do any more videos on this subject, but I have had a number of requests to do one on 2 kw heaters, and on a motor home install, so may do two more videos in the next couple of months. Regards, JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Hi, John. Ordered the 5KV Heater as the other one you suggested was apparently OUT OF STOCK. By the way hope you don't mind but here is a great video I just found on how to strip down an actual EBERSPACHER heater which was what I was eluding to in my first message to you. th-cam.com/video/vLnnBM3BTKM/w-d-xo.html I will let you how things progress when it arrives. Again, look forward to anymore of you videos and have highly recommended you TH-cam videos.
Hi, John, Hope all is well. I did a focused google search and found this e-bay sight that your viewers may find very helpful in terms of spare parts. As you said in your earlier reply you can't vouch for their quality or reliability but nevertheless it's something I thought I could share to make life easier for the new comers like myself to this product. www.google.com/search?q=ebay+compatible+eberspacher+spare+parts&safe=active&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBAU894AU894&sxsrf=ALeKk02MhQxlb_FkI9OHbIKO4iz1n5NPHQ:1590530621271&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjmrb2lxNLpAhWUyzgGHY2tBiQQsxh6BAgLEC8&biw=1280&bih=578
John - I purchase the 3KW heater - footprint size was an issue. I’ve been very happy with it - I followed your instructions! My question: I’m in Texas at 600 foot elevation. Once my trailer is warmed to temp - I switch to Alpine mode to lean the fuel delivery. On Alpine mode my combustion chamber temp is 142 C - in normal mode it is 208 C - The camper overheats in “normal” mode but seems to stay comfortable in “Alpine” mode. This should not be a problem with a leaner mixture at lower elevations - right? I figured it would keep the combustion chamber cleaner.
Wow thanks heaps John for these videos, I've just received my heater from eBay and you have answered so many of the questions I had regarding how they work and how to install them correctly. Before I found your videos I've been watching so may other hillbillys installing them on TH-cam and I was becoming more and more confused cause everyone is saying something different. Your explanations are very easy to understand and I like that you explain the details.. Great work!
Excellent work, John! I am familiar with this type products on a professional level. Being an industrial process control engineer, I can compare these with some of the other poison expensive brands. Surprisingly, they fare very well and it is a pity they are supplied with so poorly written instruction manuals. It is amazing what damage to otherwise excellent product people can do by this. You are doing a job for them they should pay you for ;-). Just an example: even having skills well above an average customer, I can't work out a problem with this heater connected to the middle range (rectangular shape with five pushbuttons) controller. The instructions are absolutely hopeless and the heater doesn't work (not pumping fuel). I suspect the pump pulse is set to zero, but I can't get to the settings because I get stuck on the "administrative password" I don't know what it is, my supplier doesn't know either and after exhausting some of the most obvious possibilities like 0000, 1234 etc, I've given up. Unless you help me :-), I will simply send the gizmo back - can't see any other choice. So, any idea?
Hi Jiri, Thanks for the feedback and info. One common admin password used by the Chinese is - 1688. Give that one a try and see how you go. When you say "Not pumping fuel" do you mean the the pump itself is not working, you can hear it ticking if it is working, or the pump is working but no fuel is entering the heater? If the pump is ticking, take off the fuel line at the heater to see if fuel is squirting out. If not you may have some blockage. Remember the pump does not start straight away when you switch the unit on, there is a delay while the heater pumps air through and heats the glow plug. If the glow plug does not get hot the pump will not start. Good luck. JMcK
Hi Jiri, Error 7 generally means a control error or wire error. 1.When you had the heater apart did reconnect the plugs correctly? Some heaters do not have polarised plugs. 2. Are you using the controller that came with the heater? Some manufactures have gone off on their own and have non standard wiring so only their controllers will work with their heaters. 3. Have you checked the plugs for any broken pins or detached rires? Good Luck. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Thank you, John! Unfortunately, nothing I wouldn't have thought about or didn't check. The controller and wiring are both original supplied with the heater. Only what's left - a a faulty ECU or controller. Checking a few forums and U-tube, quite a common occurrence. I sent the heater back to the supplier already and bought another one to be delivered soon. Fingers crossed ;-). Cheers, thanks again!
Beautifully presented, full credit for an excellent overview. I've watched all 8 episodes. Regarding fuel types, another reviewer says home heating oil (HHO) is cleaner burning and more efficient, not to mention cheaper, I know it's just diesel fuel at the end of the day, but do you have any expertise in this area? and one more thing, if I may, would adding a small/minute amount of kero, to the diesel fuel help it burn cleaner/reduce carbon buildup during slow burns?
Hi John, Thanks for the feedback. HHO is unheard of in Queensland, so I have no experience of its use. However I do know that the more "oily" a fuel you use in these heaters is the more issues you will have with soot in the heater. Kerro works excellent in these heaters, the only issue is with the higher price in Aus and with the lubricity of the kerro in the dosing pumps, causing wear, if using straight kerosene. A 50:50 mix of kerosene and diesel makes for a clean running heater. I have done a video of using kerro in these heaters, it may have some more info for you. J
In the USA home heating oil is pretty much the same as diesel. Perhaps not filtered as well. It's dyed red for tax purposes. It's diesel without road tax. So it's cheaper. I've also read that #1 Stove Oil is kerosene with a higher sulfur content. Again, not filtered as well. It's cheaper than kerosene used for heaters with wicks such as sold by Kerosun from Japan Do your own research. I'm just reporting what I've read. I don't own a heater like this yet. Home heating oil is used for residential oil furnaces. They used to be fairly common here.
John we have talked before about carboning up. I am running my heater with a kerosene and diesel mix and I have come across information about altitude settings. Let me know if you have need of this information. You need to get into the locked 🔒 settings.
Hi SS, Yes, I am interested in all the information on these heaters I can get, and will be grateful for any info you can provide. My email. johnmck47@outlook.com. Thanks. JMcK
Hi John, excellent set of videos. Thanks for the time spent on them. Do you know if most spare parts for these are standard (glow plugs, controllers, filters, etc) or how to tell if standard spare parts are used? If the parts are proprietary, like that one of yours, the heater would be hard to service in the future. Thanks.
Hi Eric, if you buy the 5Kw Chinese copy of the Eberspacher, spare parts are not an issue and are available on eBay. If you buy a Webasto copy like the little heater in video one, sourcing spare parts will be an issue. Cheers, JMcK
1) DIESEL HEATER SIZE: It's better to get the bigger 5kw diesel heater (approximately 20k BTU) vs the smaller 2kw diesel heater because the small heater has to work harder which means more noise and wear on the machine and fan, etc. The big one can run slow but running slow means more carbon build up. The solution to burn away carbon is to run it once a month at full blast for 15 minutes. 2) 7:25 TYPE OF HEAT PRODUCED: Diesel heaters put out a very dry heat. Propane heaters put out as much as 1 liter of water vapor PER HOUR (causes mold, etc.) = 12 liters per night! 3) 8:35 ESPAR DESIGN vs. WEBASTO: The chinese heaters that use the Espar design are much simpler and user friendly to work on (super easy to replace glow plug). The heaters based on the Webasto design are much more complex and require a complete breakdown to replace the glow plugs. 4) 10:28 COST: The Chinese diesel heaters are a fraction of the cost of the Espars and Webastos. 5) 12:29 CHINESE MADE vs GERMAN: There's only one moving part in the Chinese Espar design and is virtually identical to the actual Espar. He says that regardless of all the complaints online that if installed, understood and maintained correctly the Chinese heater is equally as good as the original. 6) 14:20 INSTALLATION ISSUES: a) Crappy installs include too long and narrow of an intake hose so heater can't pull air in. b) Intake and outake (exhaust) are too close to each other so the outake (exhaust - carbon monoxide) gets pulled into the intake. c) The exhaust line must be short and angled down and towards the back of the vehicle so it doesn't create back pressure as you drive forward. d) You can't put loops in the hoses! 7) 16:50 WHERE TO BUY: a) Buy from a merchant online with a positive feedback rating. b) Find a merchant with an American warehouse so you can get parts in a day or two. c) Make sure they offer free shipping and returns. 8) 18:30 LIKELY ISSUES: There's very little that can go wrong mechanically because they are so simple. The two things most likely to fail if they do fail are the internal electronics and the controller. 9) 18:43 CONTROLLERS: a) IMPORTANT: Make sure the heater I buy works with a controller that has a universal plug vs a proprietary plug. b) Be sure the heater I buy has or can work with a digital controller that can show me an error code to show what is wrong (circuit board? Fuel pump?). c) There are four different types of controller ranging from simple with just on/off and up/down to digital. Digital controllers can usually diagnose what is wrong. d) Extra controllers generally cost $15.00 to $30.00. WATCH PART 2 NOW.
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.6 (1/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m05kZ2GDKXg/mqdefault.jpg)
BY FAR, THIS SERIES IS THE MOST ACCURATE TECHINAL EXPLANATION OF THESE AIR DIESEL HEATERS!!!!!
Thanks Robert. J
Correct.
This is what I've been looking for 👍
Thank you so much for posting this series. My husband and I absolutely will be sitting down and studying every one. I don't think it's a stretch to suggest that your series could save lives. Unfortunately, most of us know just enough to be dangerous.
Hi Guys. Thanks for the positive comments. I hope the videos are of some help. JMcK
When you find this much knowledge in a youtube video, it's like striking gold! I love the series. Thank you sir for educating us!
Refreshing to find such an informative series of videos on the yootoob made by someone who really knows what he is talking about. As a retired Professional Engineer I have a pretty sensitive BS filter and the needle did not even flicker once watching all these videos
Thanks for all your hard work John ... much appreciated ! OG
Wow OG! .....Thanks for your positive feedback. JMcK
@@johnmck1147
Hi again. One question if I may. Have you ever measured the speed of intake combustion air and exhaust gas at the same setting. I reckon the exhaust speed will be approx. double and am thinking about splitting the exhaust into two right after the port and making the two legs in say 38mm stainless. A wrapped copper coil on each leg to scavenge heat in a radiator & fan circuit. The two legs should reduce back pressure and reduce load on the fan, perhaps even increasing the rpm, if the pcb 'brain' allows it. Reduced speed should give a longer dwell time for heat transfer and of course the two pipes will give a big increase in area for the coils to contact. .... just a thought .. OG
No OG, I have measured intake speeds, but I would wreck my plastic instrument measuring exhaust speeds.
Interesting your project. Please let me know how it goes. JMcK
@@johnmck1147
Didn't think of that - always been used to brass bladed instruments from my mining days. No real problem, I'm reasonably certain I'm not far out with the figures, and its of no great importance to the project. it will either be an effective heat exchanger or it won't. I'll have to have a play about, perhaps inflate a large bag, measure the time to empty, feeding intake air and then compare time to fill from exhaust - that and a few calcs would give a ball park fig. Recovering from operation just now so may be a while getting round to it.
Thanks for your interest .... OG
👍. Get well soon. JMcK
One of your biggest fans here! Thanks to you, I got over worrying about these heaters breaking down. Not any more. I have several of them now. One in my RV, which I live in most of the time, and one under it keeping my plumbing from freezing up. The one inside is connected to the original propane furnace duct work. It heats the whole place even at -20 F. To me, it's a comfort to hear the little pump ticking away. Kind thanks for all the great information and all the work you must've put into it. You have helped more people than you know. Greetings from Alaska.
Wow Shipfixer, Thanks for the nice positive feedback. JMcK
Thank you so much, John. Your videos provide all the background to understand how these heaters work and why we need to do specific connections. It’s the glue that holds all of this together for me.
Social media has so many posts with incorrect information by self-proclaimed experts. You provide the details to support the decisions you make.
Thank you from Massachusetts, USA.
Well, thank you Kate for your positive feedback.
I am pleased you found the videos helpful. JMcK
This is worth mentioning to anyone who is planning a new install. I have watched each episode and I recall in one you rightly mention the heater can be installed at 90 degrees as long as the plug is at the top. Due to the configuration of my van, that is how I had to install it, and it does work. When I originally had problems, the Chinese seller had said I needed to install it upright only. I pointed out that the instructions indicated you could install it at 90 degrees, so the seller ended up sending me another unit. Although my new heater would work, for 2 years I have had numerous problems with this angle. This week it stopped working again. Symptoms: white smoke coming from the exhaust, but no ignition. Finally I removed the unit and when I turned it so the ports were facing down, diesel fuel poured out of the air intake and the exhaust ports. I forced air through it using a blower and put it back. I ran a couple of cycles, same white smoke, took it out, and more fuel poured out of it. I then installed my original unit, and it fired up. So the take-away lesson is, although the unit will work if turned to 90 degrees, I think you'll have more consistent luck if you install it so the ports are on the bottom. That way at least, if you don't get ignition and your chamber floods with excess fuel, the fuel will drain out the bottom instead of pooling because it is trapped in the combustion chamber. As for why the flooding in the first place, I noticed my fuel line may have been run in a way that perhaps it made fuel siphon past the pump and fill the chamber when the unit was switched off. So now I have placed a shutoff valve on the fuel line just in case it was a problem due to a siphon. Probably also worth mentioning that the Chinese exhaust line is good for about a year, and then it just disintegrates. I am going to replace it with silicon heater hose, which is what I already did for the air intake.
How hot is the air that comes out of the heater at maximum speed, have you measured it?
@@milcotto4153
I did not measure it at the vent, but did take the internal cabin temp of my Delica van when it was -25C outside. This 2Kw unit just managed to keep the inside of the van above freezing at +2C. As we sometimes may be AT skiing during the day when it is that cold, it's was good to know that we could leave water without it being frozen upon return.
Hi Randy,
Thanks for your feedback. May I suggest you download the manuals for the German Eberspacher D4 heater. This is the heater the Chinese have copied, they even appear to have copied most of the manual. Most aspects of this German manual will apply to the Chinese heater EXCEPT for the controllers and the error codes, they are totally different.
Eberspacher recommends a minimum of 200 mm and maximum of 2 m for both the intake and the exhaust. However I feel a 1 m maximum is far more efficient.
The issue here is the air heater combustion chamber. It is a sealed chamber and ventilated by a very small enclosed fan. This fan spins up to about 4,000 rpm to suck in combustion air and expel exhaust gases, compare that to a diesel engine turbo that spins at around 200,000 rpm. If you restrict either the intake air or create back pressure in the exhaust you can not get efficient combustion. My suggestion, is if you must exceed 1 m of either you consider going bigger. I would suggest you install a larger diameter inlet hose and a larger exhaust pipe. However you must do your own research.
You must also keep the bends to a minimum on both the inlet and the exhaust. Eberspacher lists the max of combined bends on inlet or exhaust to be no greater than 270 deg. From experience I find that excessive, particularly if using the standard diameter piping, and particularly at the max stated length of 2 m. All bends cause restrictions, so I suggest you make your pipe runs as straight as possible.
I hope this helps, John
After watching several videos from other creators and only being half way through this one, I know that I will be learning more from this professional man then anything else out there.
My thoughts exactly
This series is one of the most thorough test i have ever seen on TH-cam. Thank You John McK 47!
Thank you for your positive feedback Peter.
Hi John, I’ve now watched all of your videos... great work! These are amazing, and I’ve learned so much. You’ve personally saved me, and many others, from making some big mistakes in their installation of their diesel heaters. I just want to say thank you for the hard work you’ve put into making these, and sharing all the knowledge you’ve picked up over the years.
bought a 5k heater with a 1.5 liter fuel tank tank does not have a place to hook up fuel line
John, huge thank you for sharing your wonderful knowledge & experience in such a clear & kind manner! You are a beautiful example of a generous human spirit that enlightens all of us with a curious mind!!
Wow Amanda, I am flattered.
Thank you for the lovely positive feedback. JMcK
Total newbie here and diving into your knowledge. Got into a converted ambulance and aside from a plethora of engine, etc. issues, I can’t get warm, despite discovering that there is one of these things on board. I’m moving this to the ‘now’ thing to address and am so relieved to find something that even I may understand (coming from a bookkeeper/SAHM). THANK YOU so very much.
Pleased you found the videos helpful. JMcK
This is Air Heater High School! Thank you so much John!!!
Your welcome Jeroen. JMcK
THANK YOU
I've not viewed yet, but looks to be a fairly comprehensive series ..
Thanks John. Have just watched your entire series. Ultra informative and I feel confident to tackle an install. I’ll raise a toast to you for every comfortable winter camping trip from here on!
Thanks for the positive feedback Jason. JMcK
This is a very thorough and excellent series about these heaters, I learned everything I need to know and I can now make an informed decision on what to buy and how to install it. And the best part: It has no bloody music playing!!! THANK YOU John!
Hi Andresa, thanks for the positive feedback.. JMcK
Hi John. You have taught me everything on these heaters, you're probably the worlds No.1 expert. I run two in tandem at my home and a third on standby that is serviced ready to swap out. I've set things up so I can do a swap in about 5 minutes so I've refined the process. You taught me about everything but specifically the existence hidden stainless gauze in the burner that alluded me for quite a while, found there was some deterioration in the heaters performance that puzzled me until I saw one of your videos. I found that instead of burning it out, I soak it in oven cleaner for a couple of days, that usually pulls out most of the carbon. I also use a sonic cleaner bath but that might be beyond most people. I pull these apart every week as I use crap old fuel from boats so the carbon buildup is accelerated. I also run these 24 hours a day. Thanks for taking the time to post videos, they are excellent, thorough and easy to understand despite you being an Aussie. I can say that as I live with your poor cousins in NZ, the extension of Australia that some Americans believe is connected by the Sydney harbor bridge.
Hi Sean, thanks for the info and positive feedback.
Say hi to the cousins, and tell them painting the coat hanger continues unabated. (Very few non Aussies will get that one)
Thank you SO much for this series of videos! I feel much more confident ordering one of these for my RV now!
I am pleased you liked them, thank you for the feedback J
Thanks John McK this video series moved me from apprehension to confidence when my heater arrived!
Your welcome Jetmelt. JMcK
🤗 Thank you John for your great introduction part 1.
We have just bought a 2kw unit for only $118 delivered here near Portland Victoria.(May 2023)
I only just found out about your series of videos, and have just seen this one, your 1st.
Looking forward to reviewing all of your videos, and when it arrives installing the little one in our caravan 👍
Thanking you again,
Ted & Rosie
Nomads travelling Australia
Hi Ted,
These are great little heaters if installed correctly.
Hope you find the videos helpful. JMcK
Hi John, I have watched a number of videos on these heaters, yours is by far the best and most informative I have seen, thank you. 🙂
Pleased you found the videos helpful. JMcK
Excellent series of videos on these heaters and in depth explanations with show and tell. You must have spent a fair bit of time preparing for this, so I really appreciate the time and effort you have invested in order to enlighten us about these. It certainly has eased my mind about installing one in my van. Thanks very much..
Wow Simmi! thank you for those kind words. JMcK
This is an huge complement to you John. Eberspächer found out the heater around 90y ago. I'll bet that long on next century people are still referring, "Oh you should look from Johns videos on how it works". Thank you for the whole series.
Hi VPL, thank you for the lovely positive feedback. JMcK
Hi John. I just purchased mine (the 8kW model that comes in a red case) and i'm very grateful that you've done this detailed series. Thanks very much for taking the time to record and share your testing, thoughts and views with the rest of us :) Liked and subbed pal.
Hi Gary, pleased you found the videos helpful. JMcK
I can not tell you how helpful this video was to me. I learned about some important nuances that I was unaware of to help maintain proper operation and maintenance. I do have a question about the exhaust and intake. What are the shortest and longest lengths that each can have for full efficiency. Thanx in advance for your response to this.
Thanks for the positive feedback Randy, my first reply went into the general comments list, not here.
Yes, you can run these heaters on their side, but only the side with the glow plug on the top. Glow plug on the bottom causes flooding issues. JMcK
John your intelligent, knowledgeable and well thought out presentation makes your series the only place to go for real info and instruction on installing one of these heaters. i thank you very much for your help and i am finally about ready to tear up my cabin and install my 5k diesel heater for winter here in the sierras. So i am going to go through your series before i do.
i hope this thing will heat our little 1,000 sf cabin or at the very least take the edge off the need for the wood stove.
thanks for the help, you are much appreciated
So glad I came upon this channel. Best info by far on diesel heaters. Thanks for taking the time to put together this series. Much appreciated sir!
Hi Jim, pleased you found the videos helpful. JMcK
Mate! you are a bloody legend John...... Thank you for the videos. Power to the people
John, you're an EXCELLENT teacher, thank you!
Wow!, thank you Athena. JMcK
I had been on the fence, but these videos gave me the confidence to buy and install one of these heaters.
👍
thank you John , you have gone down in internet history as the chinese heater guy . cheers from NZ
Thanks for the positive feedback Jason. JMcK
Great intro video! I look forward to this whole series. Thanks a lot for making it!
Pleased you found the video helpful. JMcK
Right off the beginning I heard your guineas crying, good to see a fellow farmer doing something other than farm videos. I plan on watching your whole 21 video playlist on Chinese heaters.
👍
Hello John. Thanks for the energy you put into it. Really useful videos and as already written, the media is full of experts who clearly do not even know the basic principles. Thanks a lot. Btw, I'm in Leonidio Arkadias for about 5 months a year, so maybe we'll meet at Taverna To Apagio tou Kapetan Kosta in Tyros port... Tom
Thanks for the positive comments Tom.
I am an Aussie, but as you probably know I have a sailboat in the Med and I try to spend a couple of months sailing over there each year, particularly the Greek islands. Cheers, JMcK
This series promises to be well worth watching. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback Chuck. JMcK
Hi John. Great idea however here in Canada we have ultra low sulphur diesel fuel and smokeless no sulphur kerosene. We tried your idea with a 50/50 mix and burned out 3 fuel pumps. This year we are going to a 90 diesel and 10 kerosene mix with 1/4 cup all season stanadyne per 40 litres. So far we have found that running it on high at least 10 minutes at least twice a day has been working for us so far.
Just got a 5kw one not installed it yet but glad I watched this video, thanks.
Your welcome Steve. JMcK
Amazing video! I figured out almost everything but it's nice to got confirmations from you. Thank you! I got mine some days ago and it literally changed my live here in my cold and humid house.
Pleased you found video helpful.
These cheap copy heaters give out nice warm DRY heat.
Cheers. JMcK
Just planning my parking heater in my mitsubishi delica van, these are compact and keep you warm...... But how, why, which is the best way to go now......? Ahhh going through hours of YT videos and endlessly patrolling Google for the info - not any more because John Mck 47 is the TH-cam Google King of diesel heaters. Makes so much sense after getting mixed up with others botched ideas and installs. This is brilliant John and exactly what many of us need....... Real and detailed information, thank you so much for the time, effort and patience you put in to deliver to us the Holy grail of diesel parking night heater information. Came across video 8.......... Realised you where the one to watch and now I'm gonna go through video 1 to whatever number videos you have on them, cheers.
Thanks for the positive feedback Kaylem. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 yep, you are welcome. On video 12 now, superb info. Cheers mate
Attention xplorer What you are looking for is a 1.5mm nylon line. If you are having trouble finding it then you may need to go to a espar dealer for a line which is used for the D4 unit. I have gotten all of my parts from aliexpress because you are purchasing from the manufacturer. The only problem is the wait time on delivery. However you can't beat the price and the selection is huge.
Hey John, thanks so much for these videos. Has helped me immensely- not gonna pay $2k for a 2w when I can get a 5w for around $300-$400. Just gotta find an installer!
👍
Brilliant and clear description. Wish I found this months ago.......
Thanks for your feedback Jonathan. JMcK
Sounds like you really need a good heater. These heaters give dry heat, and are so much better than propane heaters in that regard. Enjoy your adventures. J
John McK 47 hi john I live in a 32 foot camp trailer full time off grid. I been looking into these diesel heaters. I have a few questions
1..will the 8k heat a 32 foot trailer?
2..can I hook it up to my duct vents if I switch the vents to heater duct instead of AC?
Martyn Watson
Hi Martyn,
Disagree.
Common propane heaters in homes and motorhomes are not ducted and DO give out large amounts of water vapour.
I see you have never woken up to windows totally frosted and the ceiling dripping with condensation from propane heater use.
Yes, if you have a fully ducted propane heater you do not get condensation. Dickson (Canada) make an excellent fully ducted propane marine heater that does not cause condensation issues. (I have one myself)
But there are a huge number of un ducted propane heaters used in homes, sheds, caravans, cabins etc.
Perhaps you should do a little more research yourself before flying off the handle.
Perhaps you could start your reasearch by searching the generic and very popular "Buddy Heaters"
Cheers. JMcK
Just wanted to say thanks very much for this series. Have my first heater coming soon and your work is invaluable to me.
Hi Rick, pleased you found the series helpful. JMcK
After watching this first one I will definitely be watching the rest. Hopefully I can figure out what's going on with my two I just bought. Same error code on both so I am guessing it's my brand new battery.
Hi John. I am keeping in touch with you on the performance of the diesel heater. We are ending a cold snap which has lasted about a week. The overnight temperatures are as low as -34C with a wind chill of -46C. Tomorrow we will see a Chinook roll in and the temperatures will rise to the plus side of O degrees. The warmtoo 8kw heater has performed perfectly in these temperatures. I have been using straight diesel and we are running the unit on high many times a day.
Just think winter is just starting.
Thanks for the feedback S2000. JMcK
Thank you very much. I never heard of these until I got an email from a Chinese exporter. I watched all of your videos and I have a legal pad full of notes and questions. You convinced me to mount the heater under the bed of a travel trailer, similar to your yacht. I an thinking of mounting a sturdy fuel tank on the tongue or under the frame, similar to your motorhome example. I am thinking about the feasibility of using copper tubing, vs. nylon, for the fuel supply, due to weather and road exposure. My primary concern is the proximity of the hot exhaust pipe where it passes under a "cut-out" the combustible floor (plywood and foam) to vent out below the chassis of the trailer. I fully intend to use "marine grade" clamps, fittings, and connectors and use "stand-offs" for the fuel pump, filter, fuel line, exhaust pipe, and combustion air intake. Thank you for taking the time to experiment and share your expertise with all of us who are attempting to learn and apply your guidance.
Hi Ronald, I am pleased you found the videos helpful. Good luck with your install. JMcK
I’ve watched your whole series. Thank you soo much for all the work you have put into these videos. I am glad I found your series and would recommend anyone buying one of these subscribe to you and watch all of these videos. Super informative!!! Again thank you for all the hard work you’ve done. I feel a lot better about getting one of these and actually understanding how to install and work these units properly.
Thank you Svmsice. Good luck with your install.
Bloody fantastic vid mate, don't know why it doesn't have more views, just picked another one up, $93 delivered, cant get much cheaper surely...
👍
The crème de la crème of info. Many thanks
Hi James, thank you for the positive feedback. J
Hi James, thank you for the positive feedback. J
John , Quality RV LPG heaters such as my Atwood system work as a heat exchanger therefore moisture from combustion gas goes via the exhaust to the outside of the motorhome. To say they put 8 litres into the interior is incorrect and unfair to the manufactures and suppliers.Apart from this thank you for your videos I find very informative.
Hi Mr JBS,
Yes, I agree, the Atwood and similar heat exchange heaters are good heaters, but there are a great many LPG heaters out there, particularly the portable type that put out so much water vapour that the windows in a caravan are soaking wet with condensation in a matter of hours.
Thanks for your comments. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 If the products of combustion were being vented into the living space there would be people dieing left right and center
i got a 2kw for my small van even on .5kw there is plenty of heat but now i heard your tip on running full power for 15 mins to burn off the carbon i will do that , thanks so much. I think it is a Chinese Eberspacher copy as the glow plug is under the cover at the top.
Thanks for the feedback Atommachine. JMcK
Everything you need to know and more from John on your night heater, from common mistakes to best practices.
I found the fuel pump slightly noisy so I fitted a eperspacher silent run fuel pump the difference is amazing and works perfectly well with my Chinese unit 👍🖖
👍
I JUST GREW OLDER WAITING FOR THIS TO END!!
Happy birthday
Thanks John. Great explanation. I just wish I’d seen this before I paid more than perhaps I should’ve done for my ‘5K’ unit.
Thanks for the feedback Chester. JMcK
thank you for the series. very indepth. jsut what i was looking for
Pleased to be of some help. JMcK
These videos are excellent! Watching from Los Angeles, California. I am planning on buying one and installing in my Overlanding camping trailer with a roof top tent. My original plan was forced propane heat. I learned from your video about condensation/water vapor. Thank you! I also need to be able to heat water for showers and am planning on going with propane for that, since I will also have extension hoses for cooking. Thanks again John!
Thanks for the positive feedback Chris. Happy camping. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 I'm learning so much from this video series! One thing regarding your propane = condensation statement, is that some vented propane heaters also use a heat exchanger like these diesel heaters so the intake and exhaust go to the outside of the space being heated. It follows any condensation that occurs during the combustion process would also vent/drain to the outside, right? Now, a propane stove top (not vented), has the combustion process inside the space and would result in more moisture inside the space if I'm understanding this correctly...thoughts?
MiniMoggers
Hi MM, you are correct.
The heat exchanger type propane heaters vent the condensation outside, however there are many simple heaters on the market like the Buddy Heater that burn propane with a naked flame inside the accommodation area.
Any burning of propane, space heater, gas stove, gas water heater etc produces large amounts of water vapour. The Chinese diesel heaters give off a dry heat, no water vapour.
Cheers. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Thanks for confirming that for me. The key seems to be that vented diesel and propane systems deliver dry heat on the interior due to the heat exchanger and both will have condensation in their exhaust, hence the need for drain hole at the low point. I've thoroughly enjoyed your series and really appreciate your knowledge and effort. Thank you!
MiniMoggers
👍
John, thank you infinitely.
This was in incredible series. So informative before starting one of the diesel heaters. Just what I needed. Thank you John!
Pleased to help David. JMcK
Thanks John. I recently purchased one of these and I haven't gotten around to bench testing it. I have an Espar in one van but I didn't want to spend the $ for the second van. Vary informational!
Thanks for the feedback Nate
Hi John. On my last post I forgot to say that we have increased the hertz on our heater. The low is 1.5 and the high is 5. The heater is hotter especially on low and we think it is keeping the unit cleaner with a hotter burn. The fan speeds are 1680 on low and 4500 on high. I felt you would want to know even though you have nothing to use as a reference.
Great series of videos John. One other suggestion in selecting the eBay vendor is try and only buy from vendors who list as “Seller pays for returns”.
Good advice Ian. JMcK
You've just convinced me to buy a cheap diesel heater for the roof top tent. Cheers mate
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Thank you for putting together these videos! it has been very useful.
Pleased you found them helpful. Best wishes, JMcK
John, these Videos are really great! Great for anybody, who is really interested in what he is doing- and what he should do this run this heaters. Thanks for the trouble!
Thanks for the nice feedback Andreas. JMcK
Okay this is exactly what I needed! Looking forward this whole series. Priceless information :) THANKS!
Hi HRP, pleased you found the videos helpful. JMcK
this video was sooooo helpful well worth looking at well done John many thanks .
Thanks for the positive feedback Jack. JMcK
very helpful/keep it up/we need a professional in our corner-helping people/thanks much
Pleased to be able to help Ron. Happy New Year. JMcK
Thanks John. These videos have been great. Just finished installing one in my camper.
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Thanks John. I have ordered a 2Kw for my little 28 foot boat. But the package never came and they sent me the money back. After watching your video I see that I should order a 5Kw I guess. Good video, I subscribe!
Hi Mike, 2kw heater will be fine for a 28 foot boat. Here is a supplier I bought my last 2 KW heater from to get you started. Look carefully at the dimensions as some suppliers sell a 5 KW heater branded as a 2 KW heater.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-Air-Diesel-Heater-PLANAR-2KW-2000W-for-Motor-homes-Boats-Bus-Car-Truck-ee/323633205099?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
If you have the room, a 5 KW heater will really keep you snug.
Regards, JMcK.
So the heater that has not really been working at all and pretty much new..... I took it apart there was lots of carbon....I cleaned with a small wire brush....with the compustion part off I blew into all the holes to remove any loose debris...I checked the breathing hole I checked and put in new screen. It ran to full heat for at least 1.5 hrs. 4 to 5 hrs later I woke up it was off. The next day I took screen out again and blew air in from bottom of fuel line... it was open. It ran to full heat maybe 15 minutes and shut off. Sometimes error code. O8 sometimes 10. Seldom no codes after shutting off. I'll send pictures. Thanks for your offer to help...
Absolutely brilliant! Thank you.
Pleased you found video helpful. JMcK
Thanks John, very helpful video!
Your welcome Keith. JMcK
Hi John, 1000 thanks for your awesome videos - 100% helpfull. Can you see if this offer looks like it have the components you recommend or can you recommend another offer (EU). I will install in a 28 foot sailing boat as a replacement for the 40 year old 2KW Wallas and hope to reuse the heat distribution pipe - only one outlet in center of the cabin. The exhaust has to be replaced, as it is top-mounted with a cap when it is not in use.
Hi Bjarke, no link here to what you are buying.
Have you seen my boat install video? JMcK
Hi John. My friend has a problem that I have not encountered before. Might be a long texted here.
New unit, intake and exhaust are clear. Startup works as normal. Once the units is at full power and starts winding down to a slow state, all is fine until the fan starts to spin slow and stays slow even when you call for more heat or pumps per second, which makes the unit very hot but never shuts down, and fan does not speed up. If you knock on the side of the unit the fan will speed up for a short time and then slow right down again. If you listen real close you can hear a pinging noise like a metal sound and not a plastic sounding ping. You will get an error of 06. I may have missed something here but lets carry on. This happened to the first unit he had. The motherboard may have gotten to hot. So he bought another unit. Changed everything to the new stuff. On the first run of the new unit, it is doing the exact same thing. So I thought it must be an installation issue. I loosened the bolts holding it to the floor, put a new motherboard in and it takes about 45 minutes and the same problem. Oh yes while the fan is turning very slow tuning up the pumps per second will not increase the fan speed and therefore will get to hot, because of all the diesel being pumped in and has not shut down because of over heating. He thinks it's a fan issue, but how can that be with two different units and very new at that as well. So there is no restriction in the tubes and they are not bent in a funny shape but short and straight. it's winter here and no bugs. I did see white smoke once and still the tubes were clear. It almost seems as if the motor shaft is sticking because when you knock on it the fan will speed up and slow again in a short time. But then again this is the second unit with the exact same problem. If you have any questions that you may have to help with diagnosis please ask away as we would like to obviously find the problem before buying a third and have the same problem. By the way I am a subscriber and have watched all your videos, and sent I don't know how many people to your channel for the wealth of information that you have here. Thank you John for sharing this knowledge.
Hi NV,
First thanks for supporting my channel.
Now to your issue. It is difficult without seeing first hand but here goes.
1. Did you bench test the heaters first? This is always a good idea as you remove instillation issues.
2. I assume you installed the second heater “complete” and not just swapped parts.
3. From what you describe you appear to have a fan scrape issue. I give basic reference to this in a couple of my videos.
4. With fan scrape the heater can work sometimes at a high heat setting where the fan gets full voltage, but at a low setting where the fan gets lower voltage to spin slower it does not have the power to overcome the scraping resistance.
5. It is unlikely, but possible you have heaters with a bad batch of fans, but first check for scraping.
6. With the heater not operating, move the fan with your finger and see if you can feel or hear any scraping. If so you need to fix that up. It is caused by a poor moulding of the casing, and the metal part of the heater is not held in place correctly.
If this is the case, ask your supplier for a refund, if that is impossible you can fix the scraping issue by gluing in a bit of match stick in the support channel.
7. I would first try for a refund if you just bought the heater, not a replacement. It is likely the whole batch of heaters the supplier has are faulty. In that case you need another supplier.
Thankfully it is not common, but I have had three heaters now with fan scraping issues bought from two different suppliers years apart. On close inspection the three “bad” heaters all came from the same manufacturer in China.
If you are hands on it is not too difficult to modify the outer shell to stop the scraping, but something you do not want if you are a newbe.
One of the suppliers I bought from was good to deal with but I told him I would not buy another heater unless he returned his stock of heaters and changed his supplier. But I think this rarely happens or is impossible for them to do, as it was not long before the guy with a bad batch of heaters disappeared from eBay.
Please let me know how things go.
Cheers. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Hi John. I thought I had better fill you in on our problem. The only thing we did not do was take the heater apart, because it was so new. But once I got it apart it was very sooted up with very wet with diesel soot. Cleaned it up and fingers crossed it seems to be working fine so far. thanks again for all your help. I appreciate it very much.
Nomadic Vanman
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Hi John,
1/ The Trade Practices Act requires suppliers to work as claimed
2/ A vitriolic negative feedback might get a response from the supplier
Good luck,
Ian
Hi, John.
First, Well Done.
You did the world, no wait, the universe a favour.
I have been watching videos on this product for just under 2 years and hence why I did not venture into purchasing one until I actually worked out and knew how they function, how are they supposed to be assembled and the salient points to know about their usual operation and maintenance requirements.
Am based in Sydney and just want to avoid purchasing a dud, if that is at all possible?
Could you identify a supplier on e-bay that has actually sent you an Eberspaecher type diesel heater that you were reasonably satisfied with and have actually assembled and run so far?
Again, well done on imparting your knowledge and experience in this realm.
Now that I have seen all your videos, I will start concentrating on those segments you talk about acquiring and adapting the right tools and how to maintain these heaters.
I noticed you stopped producing videos of late.
• AM I TO GATHER FROM THIS THAT YOU WILL NOT BE POSTING ANYMORE INFORMATION ABOUT THIS PRODUCT AND OTHER ASPECTS OF THE HEATER?
I and I can guarantee you, the rest of the universal inhabitants of this galaxy, would love to see you actually strip a heater and clean that combustion chamber, narrate your tips on doing it and the other staff that you should have and already organised before attempting to do it.
My elder brother was a motor mechanic and I would always sit there, help and watch him strip and rebuild many engines and the like and over the years I have been able to do so at a smaller scale with great enjoyment when I had the time to do so.
I hope your health is well and either way I will and have highly recommended your TH-cam Channel.
Hi RM,
First, thanks for the positive feedback.
I can not recommend one particular supplier as to date I have not found one consistant supplier of these heaters. What they seem to do is buy a batch of heaters, and when they are sold they move on to some other product.
I suggest you buy from a supplier with an Australian warehouse, and from one that accepts returns. Here are two current Australian suppliers to get you started in your search.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-5KW-Diesel-Air-Heater-LCD-Switch-10L-Tank-For-Caravan-Truck-Boat-Trailer-/353079876936?hash=item5235335d48
www.ebay.com.au/itm/8KW-12V-Diesel-Air-Heater-Thermostat-15L-Tank-T-Pipe-2x-Vent-Caravan-Motorhome/402246898333?hash=item5da7c8929d:g:Wb8AAOSwHNhep9Nf
Suggest you bench test your heater when it arrives so you have some recourse if any issues. Wait a few months, and the supplier may no longer be there.
I have done a complete strip down video. Perhaps you missed that one.
I had intended not to do any more videos on this subject, but I have had a number of requests to do one on 2 kw heaters, and on a motor home install, so may do two more videos in the next couple of months.
Regards, JMcK
@@johnmck1147
Hi, John.
Ordered the 5KV Heater as the other one you suggested was apparently OUT OF STOCK.
By the way hope you don't mind but here is a great video I just found on how to strip down an actual EBERSPACHER heater which was what I was eluding to in my first message to you.
th-cam.com/video/vLnnBM3BTKM/w-d-xo.html
I will let you how things progress when it arrives.
Again, look forward to anymore of you videos and have highly recommended you TH-cam videos.
Hi, John,
Hope all is well.
I did a focused google search and found this e-bay sight that your viewers may find very helpful in terms of spare parts.
As you said in your earlier reply you can't vouch for their quality or reliability but nevertheless it's something I thought I could share to make life easier for the new comers like myself to this product.
www.google.com/search?q=ebay+compatible+eberspacher+spare+parts&safe=active&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBAU894AU894&sxsrf=ALeKk02MhQxlb_FkI9OHbIKO4iz1n5NPHQ:1590530621271&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjmrb2lxNLpAhWUyzgGHY2tBiQQsxh6BAgLEC8&biw=1280&bih=578
Thank You John . Very informative.
Hi Peter, pleased you found it helpful. JMcK
I'm about to start my Chinese diesel air heater education course..
👍. JMcK
John - I purchase the 3KW heater - footprint size was an issue. I’ve been very happy with it - I followed your instructions! My question: I’m in Texas at 600 foot elevation. Once my trailer is warmed to temp - I switch to Alpine mode to lean the fuel delivery. On Alpine mode my combustion chamber temp is 142 C - in normal mode it is 208 C - The camper overheats in “normal” mode but seems to stay comfortable in “Alpine” mode. This should not be a problem with a leaner mixture at lower elevations - right? I figured it would keep the combustion chamber cleaner.
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You’re a legend mate, best informative videos I’ve seen…….good on ya and keep it coming
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us - this is great info!
Your welcome Scott.
Your welcome Scott.
Thank you so much for making these excellent videos - finding these are like finding gold! The best Xmas greetings to you and yours at this time
Thanks for the positive feedback Rod.
Best wishes back to you for the Christmas season. JMcK
Wow thanks heaps John for these videos, I've just received my heater from eBay and you have answered so many of the questions I had regarding how they work and how to install them correctly. Before I found your videos I've been watching so may other hillbillys installing them on TH-cam and I was becoming more and more confused cause everyone is saying something different. Your explanations are very easy to understand and I like that you explain the details.. Great work!
Hi Jacqui,
Thanks for the positive feedback.
I hope it all goes well for you. JMcK
Always want to learn from learned elders. Hard to come by these days as I get older.
Excellent work, John! I am familiar with this type products on a professional level. Being an industrial process control engineer, I can compare these with some of the other poison expensive brands. Surprisingly, they fare very well and it is a pity they are supplied with so poorly written instruction manuals. It is amazing what damage to otherwise excellent product people can do by this. You are doing a job for them they should pay you for ;-).
Just an example: even having skills well above an average customer, I can't work out a problem with this heater connected to the middle range (rectangular shape with five pushbuttons) controller. The instructions are absolutely hopeless and the heater doesn't work (not pumping fuel). I suspect the pump pulse is set to zero, but I can't get to the settings because I get stuck on the "administrative password" I don't know what it is, my supplier doesn't know either and after exhausting some of the most obvious possibilities like 0000, 1234 etc, I've given up. Unless you help me :-), I will simply send the gizmo back - can't see any other choice. So, any idea?
Hi Jiri,
Thanks for the feedback and info.
One common admin password used by the Chinese is - 1688. Give that one a try and see how you go.
When you say "Not pumping fuel" do you mean the the pump itself is not working, you can hear it ticking if it is working, or the pump is working but no fuel is entering the heater?
If the pump is ticking, take off the fuel line at the heater to see if fuel is squirting out. If not you may have some blockage.
Remember the pump does not start straight away when you switch the unit on, there is a delay while the heater pumps air through and heats the glow plug.
If the glow plug does not get hot the pump will not start.
Good luck. JMcK
Hi Jiri,
Error 7 generally means a control error or wire error.
1.When you had the heater apart did reconnect the plugs correctly? Some heaters do not have polarised plugs.
2. Are you using the controller that came with the heater? Some manufactures have gone off on their own and have non standard wiring so only their controllers will work with their heaters.
3. Have you checked the plugs for any broken pins or detached rires?
Good Luck. JMcK
@@johnmck1147 Thank you, John! Unfortunately, nothing I wouldn't have thought about or didn't check. The controller and wiring are both original supplied with the heater. Only what's left - a a faulty ECU or controller. Checking a few forums and U-tube, quite a common occurrence. I sent the heater back to the supplier already and bought another one to be delivered soon. Fingers crossed ;-).
Cheers, thanks again!
Thank you for an excellent series of videos with a heap of great information! Awesome stuff!
Hi David, thanks for your positive feedback. JMcK
Pleased you found videos helpful. JMcK
Beautifully presented, full credit for an excellent overview. I've watched all 8 episodes. Regarding fuel types, another reviewer says home heating oil (HHO) is cleaner burning and more efficient, not to mention cheaper, I know it's just diesel fuel at the end of the day, but do you have any expertise in this area? and one more thing, if I may, would adding a small/minute amount of kero, to the diesel fuel help it burn cleaner/reduce carbon buildup during slow burns?
Hi John,
Thanks for the feedback. HHO is unheard of in Queensland, so I have no experience of its use. However I do know that the more "oily" a fuel you use in these heaters is the more issues you will have with soot in the heater.
Kerro works excellent in these heaters, the only issue is with the higher price in Aus and with the lubricity of the kerro in the dosing pumps, causing wear, if using straight kerosene. A 50:50 mix of kerosene and diesel makes for a clean running heater.
I have done a video of using kerro in these heaters, it may have some more info for you. J
In the USA home heating oil is pretty much the same as diesel. Perhaps not filtered as well.
It's dyed red for tax purposes.
It's diesel without road tax. So it's cheaper.
I've also read that #1 Stove Oil is kerosene with a higher sulfur content. Again, not filtered as well. It's cheaper than kerosene used for heaters with wicks such as sold by Kerosun from Japan
Do your own research. I'm just reporting what I've read.
I don't own a heater like this yet.
Home heating oil is used for residential oil furnaces. They used to be fairly common here.
Thank you for making this series!!!
Hope they were helpful to you. JMcK
John we have talked before about carboning up. I am running my heater with a kerosene and diesel mix and I have come across information about altitude settings. Let me know if you have need of this information. You need to get into the locked 🔒 settings.
Hi SS,
Yes, I am interested in all the information on these heaters I can get, and will be grateful for any info you can provide. My email. johnmck47@outlook.com. Thanks. JMcK
this is amazing!! thank you so much for such a thoughtful, thorough explanation!!
Thank you. JMcK
The best explanations given, great job.sir.
Thanks Philippe. JMcK
Hi John, excellent set of videos. Thanks for the time spent on them. Do you know if most spare parts for these are standard (glow plugs, controllers, filters, etc) or how to tell if standard spare parts are used? If the parts are proprietary, like that one of yours, the heater would be hard to service in the future. Thanks.
Hi Eric, if you buy the 5Kw Chinese copy of the Eberspacher, spare parts are not an issue and are available on eBay. If you buy a Webasto copy like the little heater in video one, sourcing spare parts will be an issue. Cheers, JMcK
thanks for the series en greetings from Belgium ; )
Your welcome SK, Happy New Year. JMcK
1) DIESEL HEATER SIZE: It's better to get the bigger 5kw diesel heater (approximately 20k BTU) vs the smaller 2kw diesel heater because the small heater has to work harder which means more noise and wear on the machine and fan, etc. The big one can run slow but running slow means more carbon build up. The solution to burn away carbon is to run it once a month at full blast for 15 minutes.
2) 7:25 TYPE OF HEAT PRODUCED: Diesel heaters put out a very dry heat. Propane heaters put out as much as 1 liter of water vapor PER HOUR (causes mold, etc.) = 12 liters per night!
3) 8:35 ESPAR DESIGN vs. WEBASTO: The chinese heaters that use the Espar design are much simpler and user friendly to work on (super easy to replace glow plug). The heaters based on the Webasto design are much more complex and require a complete breakdown to replace the glow plugs.
4) 10:28 COST: The Chinese diesel heaters are a fraction of the cost of the Espars and Webastos.
5) 12:29 CHINESE MADE vs GERMAN: There's only one moving part in the Chinese Espar design and is virtually identical to the actual Espar. He says that regardless of all the complaints online that if installed, understood and maintained correctly the Chinese heater is equally as good as the original.
6) 14:20 INSTALLATION ISSUES:
a) Crappy installs include too long and narrow of an intake hose so heater can't pull air in.
b) Intake and outake (exhaust) are too close to each other so the outake (exhaust - carbon monoxide) gets pulled into the intake.
c) The exhaust line must be short and angled down and towards the back of the vehicle so it doesn't create back pressure as you drive forward.
d) You can't put loops in the hoses!
7) 16:50 WHERE TO BUY:
a) Buy from a merchant online with a positive feedback rating.
b) Find a merchant with an American warehouse so you can get parts in a day or two.
c) Make sure they offer free shipping and returns.
8) 18:30 LIKELY ISSUES: There's very little that can go wrong mechanically because they are so simple. The two things most likely to fail if they do fail are the internal electronics and the controller.
9) 18:43 CONTROLLERS:
a) IMPORTANT: Make sure the heater I buy works with a controller that has a universal plug vs a proprietary plug.
b) Be sure the heater I buy has or can work with a digital controller that can show me an error code to show what is wrong (circuit board? Fuel pump?).
c) There are four different types of controller ranging from simple with just on/off and up/down to digital. Digital controllers can usually diagnose what is wrong.
d) Extra controllers generally cost $15.00 to $30.00.
WATCH PART 2 NOW.
Great instructional video. Well done.
Thanka for the positive feedback KM. JMcK