Basic Rifle Reloading 5: Bullet Seating & Crimping
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At this point we have cleaned and lubed the brass, resized it, primed it and dropped in the powder charge. It’s time to seat the bullet!
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Would love to see this reloading series continue on with load development and how you go about finding an accurate load.
Tip...buy one of those books laying on the table. Read the first third of it. How to and troubleshooting are there. Along with equipment needs.
Absolutely!
This is the type of video that the channel should be making, having quality videos about basics of reloading are super important.
I started reloading out of necessity because I hunt with a 118 year old .303 Savage. I'm the 5th generation in my family to hunt with it. The last commercial ammo was produced well over 20 years ago now so I have to reload if I want to shoot it.
I use an RCBS Summit press, Lee dies, Frankfort Arsenal drill mounted, precision trimmer, RCBS hand beveller and deburring tool, Frankfort Arsenal hand primer, FA Trickler, RCBS beam scale, Redding neck brush and primer pocket reamer set. I have a Lyman Gen 6 powder dispenser coming within the week and I hope it'll be the bee's knees lol.
It's not only satisfying to bring home the meat every fall, but it is also a thing of pride when I take that old Savage to the range, with the original Weaver K2.5 that my grandfather put on, and consistently shoot a 5 round, sub 1" group at 100 meters (just shy of 110 yards). Something I couldn't do with commercial ammo.
Like Guy here, I also am a traditional archer and make my own longbows, arrows, flemish strings, and even my own leather shooting gloves, forearm guards and quivers. I also tie my own flies and bucktail jigs.
I was fortunate to be born into a large family of outdoor enthusiasts to which I was taught most of these skills but you never stop learning new things because there is even more satisfaction in achieving high quality results using three different techniques so to speak.
Guy, I want to thank you for putting in the time and pouring out your knowledge. I have been reloading for decades. Started with 38 special, 45 acp, and progressed to bottle neck rifle cartridges. I now reload for every firearm I own from the little J frame 38 special, to 50 ae, and beyond. My high volume is done on a dillon progressive, but everything else is still on a single stage, including rifle. I would urge new reloaders to purchase several manuals, Lyman, lee, to start with, as they have a wealth of information for beginners. Get a package reloading kit that will have everything you need to get started, and take your time. The rewards are wonderful, and the experience will be something that can be passed on to further generations. Thanks, as always, and keep up the good fight!
Thank you! I also use the Lee factory crimp die. I do the first crimp than turn the case 1/4" of a turn and crimp again. It's helped reduce run-out by a smige as well as accuracy in my '06.
Thank you for the series of videos
I agree with @fuenstock, I too would love to see the series continue with load development
I really enjoyed these videos im wanting to start reloading you are the Bob Ross of reloading we all want more videos
Keep logs for your reloading data so you can go back to see what is working for a particular load.
Great presentation as always. Thank you, Guy. I am now getting mitivated to buy some Lyman products to go with the Lee starter kit i have and have still not set up. Lol. No space at the moment. I have a bench in storage, and plenty of components. So when i get a real place, that will be high on the priority list
I been waiting for the next video in this series and it’s finally out!
This stuff is helpful!
Thank you.
Very helpful. Thanks a lot!
Guy I was wondering why you see the seating die all the way down to the shell plate to set up your seating die
Are there any videos yet of Guy teaching us how to make our own lead bullets?
Ah, that's something I don't do. There are others who do, but when I want cast bullets, which is often, I just buy them. Casting my own always seemed like adding one thing too many to an already busy life. I'll happily pay for quality cast bullets.
Can you recommend a Chrono for $300 or under that with send to my iphone. And me accurate to +/- 10 fps accuracy at worst or better consistency? Thanks
🥳👍‼️
Seating and crimping in separate steps is unnecessary. You can learn to use the dies the way they were designed to work and seat and crimp in the same step. If I were to crimp in separate steps, I'd use a crimping die so not to be constantly adjusting the seating stem.
What I appreciate is the fact that all the equipment you use is affordable. The Lyman gear is very good and produces accurate ammo. Plus it will last a lifetime. I use the Lee Factory Crimp die on my .223 ammo for my ARs. Great series!!
This series has been very very basic for your first timers. But it's just a gateway, once you begin reloading and enjoying it, you want to improve. Guy, think about an intermediate reloading series with more serious case preparation and basic load development demonstrating powder burn rates and their relation to bullet weight and cartridge size. Next would be an advanced series with enhanced case prep like annealing and measured shoulder bump as well as advanced sizing tools such as mandrel or collet neck expansion. Look at tools and techniques for determining seating depth and dialing in load development to maximize accuracy for the individual firearm. Beginning is the first step but learning is a process.
I find that in a lot of basic standard dies there is a roll crimping feature in the seating die which I don't generally use. In my set up, I run a case to the top and screw the die down until I feel it touch the case, then back off at least 1/2 to a full turn. If I am going to crimp as for a revolver or tube fed magazine, I use a separate crimp die for better control. I will roll crimp if the bullet has a cannelure pressed into the bullet. If it does not have one, I will taper crimp the case mouth instead in order to keep the bullet from deforming. I load for 9MM, 38/357/44Mag/45ACP/45Colt/6.5 Swede/270 Win/308/30-06/30-30 Winchester. Keep your dies clean-I generally clean mine with a bore brush and solvent followed by a spray of Rem-oil to prevent rusting after each reloading session. I have two presses at my desk-a Forster Co-Ax and an RCBS Rock Chucker.
Get more than one reloading manual.
One thing that always frustrated me starting off, when you don't size properly then you trim, and your cases end up being slightly different sizes in different places, like your shoulder is bumped too far or not far enough, and you go to seat, some rounds end up seating the bullet too high or too low in the case and you come out with different OAL's. Always took my excitement to reload down a notch or two. Consistency. Currently loading for 7.5 Swiss. I love the cartridge and the rifles that shoot it. Interesting rifles to say the least.
I was taught when seating bullet, was to half seat, nring cartridge back down, rotate the casing a half rotation, then bring it up and fully seat. Helps with alignment! :)
I love reloading my .270 weatherby and my .300 weatherby, the accuracy of weathervy rifles is amazing!
Using green rcbs reloading equipment.
For a tubular magazine, you crimp to prevent bullets from getting pushed back into the case. The exact opposite of the potential problem with a revolver where bullets might walk out of the case and lock up the cylinder.
By “match grade dies” do you mean a Forster Benchrest seater or a Redding Competition seating die with the sliding sleeve that improves concentricity? (Redding copied the Forster design when its patent ran out. Both are excellent, and superior, seating dies.)
I have to add that measuring OAL with bare calipers is the correct starting point for seating depth, but it barely scratches the surface.
I’ve been reloading for a few years now and my mentor taught me all the basics from his 60 years of reloading. I did what a lot of people do and bought all the electronic gadgets you could imagine but as the time passed I found myself going back to basics. I use a Lee dipper, good balance beam scales and a trickler, found the simple process more enjoyable. You can go faster with the toys but also take the enjoyment out of the process. Great video series.
I started out loading 30-30 then added 30'06 & 308Win, later I added a 5.56 AR to the mix. Awesome labor of love to do these things for yourself.
When I started the RCBS JR press lacked enough compound leverage for the bigger rifle cartridges. I add the RCBS BIG MAX press which made the sizing task so much easier with its leverage.
I loaded 458 SOCOM for my nephew showing him how the steps and processes are used so he could load his own as well. Very rewarding to introduce people to the handloading passion!
By the way Guy I also made my own arrows, even utilized my loading scale to match the finished weights.
Your video goes from screw the die down until it contacts the ram (1:22), then it skips to "one of the tricks I..." However at 2:00 you can see the die has been backed off, presumably so it won't crimp while seating. There's clearly a cut away seen, but what you didn't do is show backing it off so it won't crimp before you move to bullet seating depth. Appears somehow that step ended up on the cutting room floor but it's an important step given this is the basics. It's a minor thing, but a newbie reloader might not understand why their die is trying to crimp and yes if they had read the manual they wouldn't have this issue, or maybe they read it and simply didn't click. Overall a nice series.
For match rounds I like to use Lee's factory crimper It crimps it in from the side does not roll over a crimp crimping it in from the side actually trues that bullet to the casing and it's a more consistent crimping. Any variation at all whatsoever on a road crimp can also change the pressure and the speed of the bullet this is why you get a variation in your chronograph readings. I consider that factory crimping to be one of the most important factors of accurate shooting
My biggest tip, is read your reloading manual thoroughly. It has great info in it and usually pictures to show you what good looks like and bad. I have a Rockchucker press. I converted it to use the Hornady Lock and Load bushings, and now all I have to do is 1/8 twist and the die is out. Makes changing dies real easy. I use the Frankford Arsenal Universal seating die, it has a window for dropping the bullet into and it produces very concentric ammo. It is also multi caliber so it can almost anything you need it to do. I load .270WSM, .308, .30-06, and 5.56 on it. I may start loading pistol on it for hunting protection, .38 and .357.
Thanks for the series of videos, I'm just starting out with reloading and would like to know how many times can you reload the brass cartridge?
Good question and that varies tremendously depending on the cartridge and on the intensity of the handloads used. For example, I have 38 Special and 45 ACP cases that have lasted just fine for 15+ loading/firing cycles. But those are low pressure, straight wall handgun cartridges. I've also had rifle cases that were useless after two or three loading/firing cycles because of a combination of soft brass, maximum pressure loads and warm days at the rifle range. Annealing can extend the life of rifle brass.
One other thing. I've been watching some of these F class shooting channels. It seems like it could get reel expensive keeping up with all the newest latest and greatest gadgets out there. Really does an air actuated bullet seater with computer printout help that much to justify cost? Keep it simple, keep it fun.
another great video and a good job on covering the basics of reloading. Would like to see the series continue with a basic hunting load development including the testing at the range.
Guy, my understanding of bullet movement in a tubular magazine is that the bullet goes further into the case. The cartridges move forward in the tube as the weapon discharges. The force pushing an uncrimped bullet into the cartridge is supplied by the magazine spring being further compressed during recoil and the hammer effect from the springs return after the discharge has taken place. An easy way to picture this, is to think of the entire stack of cartridges moving forward against the magazine spring as the weapon is fired and then slamming back after the recoil is over. This is different from a revolver, where the shell is rigidly held, and the recoil tends to move the bullet out of the cartridge. In the case of a tubular magazine, the movement of a bullet deeper into the shell can cause higher pressures upon discharge.
Cannelure = "can-L-er". Plus, I think cartridges for any repeater should be crimped. Recoil always affects cartridges.
Thanks. It’s hard to find reloading videos
Hi I've been reloading for the last 40 years. Self taught, this was long before internet and you tube. Picked up a book on how to reload and been doing it ever sense. Just watched this video, for some one starting out for the first time they may not have a loaded round to set their seating die with. I think it would have been better to show how to set it without a cheater round for those just starting out. Other wise great video.
Still trying to figure out the relationship between seating depth and velocity on my .40 S&W loads. Great video.
This series is so well done. Thank you guys.
I seat the bullets with a Redding Competition Seating Die and then crimp in a separate step.
Been reloading ammo for 30 years. My advice for someone just getting started is the wet tumbling is so much better than dry media. I've just recently switched and wish I had made the move years ago.
Probably the best tip I could give is…,find a mentor. There are so many rifle clubs around this country with the greatest guys in the world that want to help you.
That is a good thing, but one should still do their own research as well.
Hi. Thanks you for doing great content like this for the beginner. Another things that could be usefull for a beginner is to have a mentor that is experimented in reloading that could help when you have some question. Otherwise, like Guy says, keep it simple and have fun and stay safe !!
I guess I'm a little different, i started reloading about 45 yrs ago with a Lee Loader for 30'06, a pack of primers and a pound of IMR powder. Now I've got a couple of presses well five counting shotshell and I'm converting a spare bedroom in to my "Man Cave" for all my hobbies.
Some or "most" people only factory crimp on straight walled cartridges. I believe that doing so also on your bottle-necked cartridges can help produce more consistent neck tension, which will create more consistent firing pressures, and therefore more consistent velocities. Any thoughts?
Hi enjoyed the vid just a question would you crimp your brass when using a single shot sharps rifle thanks in advance
No - for the single shot I wouldn't... UNLESS, testing showed the crimped rounds grouping better or possibly producing more consistent velocity.
I’m reloading for 7.7 Japanese (Arisaka), 30-06, 357 Magnum/38 special, 9 Luger and 45 ACP. I have 10 reloading manuals in which I cross reference my load data. I start on the lowest powder charge and work my way up. I take my time when reloading ammo, and make make sure that there are NO DISTRACTIONS! I also record my reloading data in a note book for future reference.
Sounds like you’ve been reloading a couple of years. Good for you! Keep it up. As you gain more experience you’ll streamline your process.
So much good information, the whole process of learning how to reload has been enjoyable, it’s a great way to wind down after work.
I'm new to reloading and have been watching yours & a lot of videos & I have a question. With respect to using my comparator on some once fired 308 brass from my kimber rifle, I noticed that not all the brass has formed to my chamber completely. All of the Winchester brass I measured had different shoulder measurements. Starting w/the most formed or biggest shoulder or case expansionas a base line, I ended up with cases ranging from -.0010 less, .-0020, -.0025, -.0030,-.0035, -.0045,"55,"60,"65,70, & even one case -.0100 less than the largest one I could find. Why does this happen? & how could I possibly know which case to use as a base line to bump my brass back -.0020 if they're so different like that..what should I do? FYI, The highest number of sample space cases occurred at around-.0035 to -.0045 more or less. Out of about 60 cases.
I like old military rifles, so I have plenty of cartridges to load for like 8mm Mauser, 7.7Japanese, 8mm Lebel, and so on. Been doing everything on an old RCBS single stage with standard dies, RCBS balance scale and Lyman trickler. My newest adventure has been working up smokless 43Spanish loads for an old Remington rolling block, which I'm currently experimenting with felt wads and cotton balls in to hold a low amount of powder in the bottom of a high volume case for reliable ignition.
You sound mike me. I have a number of milsurps. I have long wanted A Rolling Block, and 43 Spanish is one of the common chamberings (fortunately, 7x57 is out there too, and i already have a Chilean Mauser). I remember reading a print article about the 43 a couple of years ago. I forgot if they were reforming 45-70 brass, or what. Good luck on your project
@@troy9477 My starting point on the 43Spanish smokeless load is some 45-70 trapdoor data as 45-70 has slightly less case volume than 43Spanish. Honestly, my issues stem from the fact I'm using IMR4198, which has very low case fill. I think if I switch to something more volumous like Accurate 5744, most of the issues will be solved.
@@nekoghostgunner1129 i was just gonna say before i read to the end, 5744 might work. What about RL-7 or 3031? Just thinking out loud
I am driving into reloading for the 450 bushmaster with a rock chucker. There are alot of weeds to that cartridge. I do 223, 270, and 44 mag. All deer hunting rounds and am getting some amazing results. I’m trying the new cx bullet in my 270 and have shot a few for pressure tests and preliminary accuracy. I have a max charge that is giving me near 1/2“ 3 shot groups at 100 yards. With a beat up savage pre accutrigger.
Enjoyed this series, would like it to continue with maybe load development. Gauging seating depth or other accuracy tips.
Great series. Love that you tell people to just get started simple then get complex as you need to.
Do you have a playlist for this series? I cannot see one. Thanks for the great content!
What do you use for 7mm08 bullet length? What is your powder charge and preferred powder!
Best to buy good equipment from the start, as oppose to upgrading later on. As cheap tools make cheap ammo at the Reloader's expense [time and efforts]. Not to mention a waste of money once one finally gets tired of dealing with such and decides to upgrade.
Personally I think a turret press with the ability to incorporate the Hornady LNL quick die change bushing system is the proper way to go. At the moment only the Area 419 Zero Turret Press has this option of a turret head with the 1 and 1/4" holes to accommodate the Hornady LNL quick die change bushings, but perhaps, with some encouragement, others will follow. I happen to like the Harrell's Tooling Turret Press with 4 holes, and am seriously thinking of asking them if they can make me a 4 hole turret head with the 1 and 1/4" holes. At the moment I have a Buchanan Precision Machine single stage hand press with the Hornady LNL quick change die bushing system, and even though it is my second choose of presses, I got it first because it did not need to be customized (that is to say no modifications where needed for optimal operation [short installing a turret head on it).
I think it best to get the competition dies as well, unless one does not care so much as to the accuracy of their ammo. Buy once, cry once. No reason to waste money on dies that are not going to be a forever go to dies, as it is just a waste of money to end up with a cheap set of dies lying around in the end.
And the more Load Manuals the better, as they all have typos in them, and it is best to have many to check between. A lot of load manuals simply repeat what another load manual has said (typos and all), so the more the merrier. The powder and bullet manufacturers are most likely to have made there own data so best to get at least one manual from the powder manufacturer you plan on using and one from the bullet manufacturer of the bullets you plan on using to cross reference between them. Personally I got every current load manual out there to have the most data to choose from to be able to pic the best loads for what I want to achieve, not just generic data.
Powder charges should be done on a beam scale, being they do not drift off of zero every time one blinks. After all accuracy and repeatability are not just a preference but rather safety measures that every hand loader should strive for.
Single Base powders, as well as the ammo made with them, should be stored in a steady 40-50% humidity levels around 70 degrees Fahrenheit or less. And Double Base powders, and the ammo made with them, should be stored in steady 50-60% humidity levels around 70 degrees Fahrenheit or less. 50% humidity makes for a good happy medium.
It is a good practice to record the load data used and store it in both a data log book as well as upon each batch of ammo.
My model operations are as follows:
1) de-prime cases
2) clean cases
3) lube cases
4) re-size and flare cases
5) re-clean cases
6) inspect every single case for issues
7) prime cases
8) charge cases
9) seat bullets in cases
10) crimp cases
11) re-inspect all rounds (not just every tenth or so)!
12) store ammo in sealed IP65 rated cooler, with ThermPro temperature and humidity gauges.
Anywho, (however you choose to hand load) be sure and not cut corners on inspecting every single round, at every single stage of development, for your safety and that of those standing/sitting nearby. Obsessive Compulsiveness is not a disorder when it comes to hand loading yet rather a positive attribute that all should strive to adhere.
P.S. - Oh, and don't forget to wash your hand before and afterwards. Behind the ears is optional at this point.
Great series, Guy! I have a question. About how many times would you use the corn cob media, before you think its bad! Thanks, Guy!!
It’s a bit disappointing they skipped the set up of the die and how to set a crimp with the standard die. Instead they focused on the crimp die.
Yes the larger and heavier rifles will need crimping. Any tube feed ammo will need crimping as well to keep the overall length under recoil. This also means case trimming will affect this process. To long and heavier crimp, to short and lighter crimp. This will affect the accuracy. Consistency is one thing you should always strive for.
would like to hear and see tech info on just how much crime you need for pistol bullets , how much is right in thousands of a inch .0000 ! I ask this because I have taken apart some 9 mm rounds and found some crazy measurements these rounds came from a local indoor shooting range. Most shooters would not mess with rounds from a scrap bucket but my curiosity brings me to wondering why the rounds won't shoot, I have seen light firing pin strikes on the primers and one batch of several 9 mm caught my attention they're hand loads so I took several of them home took them apart to my surprise the rounds were reloads so I looked at the bullets and said this is wrong real wrong, measured the tapered crimp found one at .023" and the rest at .020"! People starting out are not getting proper train in reloading the correct way and apparently can't read mics. please use small pistol primers for any small diameter calibers and use like CCI 500, don't use small rifle primers because a lot of the firing pins will not they don't have a strong enough spring , or a strong enough firing pin its self for the rifle primers actually the metal it not suited for firing off a rifles primer. Please rife primers are made of a stronger metal firing pins / springs you are lucky by chance if your pistol will fire those stronger rifle primer. Okay my experience in reloading goes back some 50+ years doing reloading rifle and pistol cartridges. P.S. be safe learn the right ways of reloading its not a PC game when you lose you lose big time like exploding rounds in your favor it expensive fire arm.
I agree with the ammo and rifle calibers /actions you stated, with regards to crimping . Not stated is when re-loading for a semi-auto or bolt action with clips you do not need to crimp the bullet.
Why do you screw the seating die down til it touches the shell holder? Many times that is way to far. I rarely crimp my rifle ammo. I always put a sized empty case in then screw it down till the crimp ring contacts the case then back it off slightly. Then place my dummy round in and run it up, screw the stem down till it contacts the bullet.
Great Series, and hopefully, you will continue showing your insight on reloading. I have an unusual Request to Ultimate Reloader. Only because Brass is hard to find. And I can not think of a more reliable Channel. Necking UP or Down cases using parent Case. I think it is a very good skill to have using what you can lay your hands on. Both me and a coworker are talking about converting 30-06 / 270 brass in to 280 Rem and 243 / 308 brass to 7mm-08 my coworker has a bunch of 30-06 brass. I played around with it in 1996 with some success and realized I might have to resort to it again because of shortages. But with the resources at Gavin, I would love to see the need reloading tools out on the Market to make life easier. This is an area with very little info on.
I’m no expert, however I’ve necked 308 to 243 for years. Highly recommend you get an outside ball micrometer to measure neck thickness. Necking down can potentially thicken the neck to unsafe dimensions, and cause the case to squeeze the bullet when chambered. Likewise expanding the neck may make them too thin.
@jimabel7458 Thanks very much for your knowledge or insight. Did what you recommended. I necked down 308 to 7mm-08 and turned the necks down.
I have 100 pieces of wild cat Belted Magnum brass. I plan on necking down to 338 Win Mag brass and will do the same as before mentioned.
Very helpful, especially since I have all Lyman equipment.
Would you put a crimp in the 308 for semiautomatic?
another great video Guy!!
Hello guy it's nice seeing your teaching
Thanks for this series, a great refresher.
🙏🏼
I'm curious, between steps 1-5, obviously starting after the casings have been cleaned in the tumbler, how long does it take you to complete 20 or even 100 rounds? This seems like an incredibly time consuming process.
Twenty rifle cartridges takes me about an hour. If I'm doing a larger quantity, things speed up a bit, but not much. Single stage press only goes so fast. With a turret press and handgun ammo I'm up to about 50 rounds an hour. With a progressive press... Well then we're talking a couple of hundred rounds per hour. I do most of my loading on a turret press, which is a bit faster than on a single stage like I used in this video. It does take time, but I enjoy the process, so to me, it's all good time.
Do you have any recommendations for die’s and equipment for reloading on an old rcbs for a 300wm hunting application ?
I always loaded the 300 Win Mag with good ol' RCBS standard dies. I did set it up to headspace on the shoulder rather than the belt. I believe that helps with case life. The 300 Win mag is a great cartridge for big game hunting.
Thanks, Guy 👍
Get some.
Obrigado pelo conhecimento compartilhado!
De nada.